LINGERIE MAQEeAT HOME AT SMALL COST.

——^ROBABLY there are few of the more economi-

caUy inclined women who do not have boxesgf* or bags which hold bits of lace, trimmings

M*of various kinds, pieces of silk, net, or cliif-fcrn. and the hundred odds and ends whichw/U accumulate if care Is taken of the in-

evitable "left overs." And now Is one of the times<n the year when some of the contests of these boxesmay help out wonderfully in making over and renewing•ome of our last year's wearing apparel. The first steptoward remodeling a garment is to look it over thor-oughly to ««e what sort of condition it is in; then, if it*'* to be made over, il should 'be carefully ripped up,brushed and shaken, and all the threads picked out

Almost ell woolen goods can be- washed insoap treebark. A 5 cent package Is enough for one dress, andit can be bought at any drug etore,; fall directions for\u25a0ueing ere printed on "every package. If these direc-tions are carefully followed the material willbe freefrotn epots, and after pressing look almost like new.Be sore and do the pretsing on the -side that is tobe used as the wrong «ide. and see that the ironsare not hot enough to scorch at aIL Press until per-fectly dry. and be careful to keep the- goods straightwhile pressing.

Ifthe material to be cleaned U silk, or chiffon, ornet, or anything of the kind, gasoline will do goodwork. A good way to freshen black silk Is to usewhite ao«p and water wiflia scrap of the material toileas awey spots, and rinse thoroughly; then uae weak.<*Jld coffee, lay the material with the side which is tohe used as the right side uppermost on an unvarnishedtable, wet a small sponge !n the coffee, and rub downthe entire length, always rubbing from one end to theother, never across or up and down. Let the silk dryon the table. It looks almost like new when dry. andthe only disadvantage is that it Is a long piece of work,

*\u25a0•\u25a0% probably only on* breadth can .be dried at a time.'Itis far better, however, than ironing, as, ,if an ironis a bit too hot. it takes the. life out of silk.

The material now is ready to be used, and it is wellto remember that Itis doubtful economy to make o\'cranything if one has to buy much new material to gowith it Ifat'all possible use what you have in thehouse; this applies to trimmings as well as the mainmaterial. Making clothes over is a fine thing, and !fit Is done with the materials you have, and .by-your-self, is the best kind of economy. Sometimes it is ab-solutely necessary to spend a little money In makingo\-er a garment and if the material is good enoug'ato warrant. it,and only a little is epent. and the makingover is done by yourself, itstill would bo an economicalthing to do.

It generally is the part of wisdom to let a tailormade suit alone; that f*/unless it.ls one of the dressy,fancy kind. In that ,event, the style of tfimminc andeven the shape of the coat, may be changed sometimeswith good effect. Dot with s plain tailor-made suit,such as a plaited skirt and dimple coat, it will lookbetter left alone. The sleeves of these. coats remainabout the same—- a moderate sized coat sleeve.

On the amount. of care taken of a good tailor madesuit depends in a great measure its durability and goodlooks. It Is a wife expenditure to take it to sometailor once In fix w^eks or so. and have it sponged andpressed. 'Tailors use heavy irons and strength, and fewwomen can do this work,well. This keeps the suit 'lnshape, and Itlooks almost like new as long as it isworn. The bottom also, should be kept in perfect con-dition. Itis inexcusable for.a woman.to go about with'frayed edges. .

An everyday suit, to be really serviceable, should foeat least three inches from the floor, and a^yood many

women wear them four inches up.. Itis possible ifthey are this length to walk "on a stormy day and* BtiUkeep clean. If the suit-Is worth it,by all means puta new coat lining in, ifthe present lining is worn, an»lby do doing make the suit do. good duty another coupleof years.- There Is the lining,which is used in men'scoats a good deal; it has a diagonal twill, and is halfsilk and linen. It wears well and" looks well, and costsabout 75 cents a yard. For an ordinary short

'Jacket

it will take four yards. The old lining \u25a0must be jcare-fully ripped out and pressed, and •;"usedV'as a ">patternfor the newlloing. As the; old;lining'is being rippedout. notice bow- Itwas put In. A few weeks ago therewere detailed directions given in one of these articleeabout lining Jackets. > ',

''_'-:r: , .

A brilllantlne drets gkirt that is too"worn around thebottom to wear longer willcut .over into ia gwed petti-coat- Of course, one cannot iget a -ruffle out, too, buta. well gored skirt, with;as much of Hmto' as the clothwillallow, cut on the gored edge of each gore and theback cut with a loose habit back, and the placket but-toned up its whole length; will imake •a flne eWrt towear stormy days. It can be made plain,,or trimmedwith rows of ribbon, velvet,- or braid ifone happens tohave any in the house. :\u25a0 .».;::; -. ;-.-> ';•: "\u25a0• "J.

A skirt also can be cut over iinto'a shirtwaist or.adressing sacque.

* . .-Every alternate season at least one is sure to have

a dressy Cress, on the order of a voileror silk^andmaybe one/pr more extra waists, which*will need rencnvating. The most satisfactory way, to \ treat the "waistwill be to glre^the new shoulder; and large, armholeeffect. All shoulders slope a good deal; and the sleevesare decidedly small at the top. TheIeffect !Is- thatlofmaking the shoulder and sleevf/ melt intoone :thing.*-Ifone is fortunate ;enough to have . some 'pieces 'of '[ thevoile .left, cut them' into "pieces '-and'1have them* eithertucked or plain, and ,attach them to the "waist *torgiyethe effect' of the kimono sleeve. :ItIs.pretty, to do the

Joining with the fagoting etitch, or a band iof[trimmingcan be blind stitched on over the

'Joining. Sometimes

Ibe. tucks In these ;pieces go acroes the top >of;the

NQTCS FOE THE SEWING ROOM.

shoulder only, and that is prettier than where they.go.around the entire "way. \u25a0/. \u25a0 v3^lfJthere '\u25a0is;any soiled lace about the yoke and collar"!it must :be gleaned, \u25a0fbr:the^flr«t; requisites ;of a daintywoman's wearinglapparel are perfect freshness, cleanli-ness, and

'perfect order. ;Fuller's :earth cleans saOafac-

torily. and never injures ;things.; Shake it over" the:solledplaces well, and even; rub" it^in; If\oeilbU rollup the material and fallow,it to stand for several days.Then aheke and brush it thoroughly.

:;r;,-'." The w^t.wUI not"need :any other alteration Ifthe ;trimmlngiCare not worn out. If•they, are, and the dressotherwise.is In good condition, it"willpay to*Bpend;? 2or. $S;'on;lt|' ';: Look vfor remnantsjof lace"*or"ribborii. or^whatever Is necessary, thusT making, aidistinct "saving'in the amount to be expended. «A wide bias band, with"the .upper edge :; piped and iput Jon {In

"a* diagonal Sline. ;

making a deep point about •twelve inches'from'; the!edge ;

ofIthe skirt :in th»^front > and.- running -up sharply ;to- \ward the .back, is a* pretty .way,;as. wellIas" a :new:one,'of applying trfjnmlag.' , . .. - : '

f:«

:?-',ifione shas, an accordion :plaited flounce of chiffonor Überty^HilkT;orran \u25a0; old :silkv skirt, it can be .madeinto a stunning waist. :1f,,-newt silk'-.for :th« foundation\u25a0hasTto, be .bought," a 'suitable-, quality can befor;SO or 60 ;cents a."yard^ and!ifrtbe silk is narrow/ five. yards will needed, making -the silk coat ;$2.60 or;|3.•

.Make the *: silk part perfectly plain, except for at ohoul-der •pla«t. lAythe chiffon ;on this, -so;the ;plaitlngs ;aronot disturbed, and If: the;lengths ;are too short theycan be pieced out with': lace insertion.' The waist shouldfasten .in.the -back and' be put'into^a fitted girdle..simplest sleeves 'will;be pretty, and lace bands at -.thecollar and edgesjof

'the :? sleeves will'finish -It/well.'; .'A

touch of gilt braid Is good looking -on the girdle andcollar if the- waist is black. ;' "/ <:: "V"' . •- /

'

"Embroidery/ is^ so much In. vogue Just .now that if;one has fa jaress

-material that will

'

lend Itself '-, to"thatkind;of an effective pattern could be Stampedonl*he r?^>ofithe

'skirt,\: and ;also

'on the waist trim-

v

min-gs.^a'nd the* embroidery, beJOonc. at home, most: ef-fectively remodeling a last year's gown. V

MAKING OVER LAST YEAR'S CLOTHES.

\u25a0 ... \u25a0

- •\u25a0. . : .\u25a0\u25a0--• ; \u25a0\u25a0

•."_.\u25a0 \u25a0" . .

,transfer the .Japanese embroidery to a new;I \u25a0AIcover,:»flrst stretch on the embroidery ,frame;I;-V,:Jl"r -;I\u25a0 t e fresh piece" of •material, on..which out-;Imml line the pattern of the work to be applied

fag||||raj on it,which, edge with silk cord, sold thread.*\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0•\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0# and silk couching, then pasta tissue, paper

'at^the^back;Ot it.to'strengthen, let dry. > Cut; out-withsharp sclssoira "all1worn out parts or ragged edWes, leav-ing.all around; about the1BliteenthVof an :inch of ma-

rjterlal'j asia"'-border. ]or/foundation. Now place '.the em-rbroidery on\the new material, :secure' it with:pini,'and"Btitch;it-*own]^wlth fine waxed sllk'to fasten\the little,;margin securely^Jover the fresh ground. .Couch a second'cord next \ to;the ;first, carefully; following the} outlines,•• andihidings the; frayed > out edgec "This double cortmay ;«be put :\u25a0 on,-iIf preferred." together, \u25a0but.the

'first

best. .Add with needle, silk or gold thread any"tendril, spray, or accessories left out during the process

s ot "cutting.- "''-\u25a0; •"""".' .':/\u25a0'•\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0" ..-'.•\u25a0 ' -"\u25a0

Buttoos have; been; rather. In-abeyance until lately.always excepting the \\big handsome sortjwhich form adistinctive )• featureiof :;picture sque ? wraps :and gowns,and;which.never- quite go ;out of;fashion nowadays."But the reign of the smaller button appears to be re-commencing. < The;decoration of cloth;by

vbuttons ;-of

sraall^ alae ';forming;aVdeslgrT is:one of "\u25a0\u25a0 the fashions' of vthe moment.* • Effective;trimmings, can

-be,achieved \u25a0!by •

means ;of*small .buttons. A blue serge suit bordered^

with.bands of doll platinum tissue has rows of ratherflat bright cold buttons, with a small pattern in dullsilver on each side In rows along them, with a thickpiping ot double folds of satin, black Mid white, tofinish all off. On a whit* Hntn gown thfy are madeof white enamel to resemble linen. The real genuineold fashioned linen button again is seen on linen suit?.

V:-jV:-j Though satin la a fabrto for all time, there is alimit to the colors in which itU wearable. White, ofcourse,' is;always fashionable.

'btrt. while pink is most

desirable and pale blue alsV is good, there Is not somuch to be said for the other shades. Sattasare sodelightfullysoft, the material ceases to hare th« cere-monious aspect Ithad whea -to aUnd atone "*

was thehighest recommendation a fabric could win. la conse-quence Bxtina have been prettily and appropriatelyworn both" by the jonhg <girl and the eHerly woman.Itis interesting to notice how, while the gauzy dresshas been so popular tor the day time. th« eVenini- gownhas gtren up to a great extent transparencies for satin.Of course, embroidered tttllea, chiffona. «t&."ha-r« beenconspicuous, too. only thes« or* so expensive aca satinso cheap in-comparison aatin has had the greater suc-cess. -Many,satin dresses have been Almost lertrs Inoutline, being swathed with the «atln7tulle. or chiffon.with:the addition cf Jewels to compute the schem*.

'..\u25a0 \u25a0 : ';\u25a0 , -•;\u25a0;•-\u25a0;../ ;The :popularity of cretoaae trtasaiag is crowing

apace and is being turned to wna excellent account inwash dresses, garlands lightand delicmt* of taln.be.ing applied either side ,oo •ntredeox of lace. Workwlup with \u25a0«ilk \u25a0to giv« the. effact of a haary !tatted em-broidery.cretonne i»;invaluabl*'la meeting the demandfor narrow )inner [veste or folds.•ownIwhich

'the fichu

or kimono ;bodice -la laid. Cretonne i» not by aoymeans an lentlrel3r1

entlrel3rinew;ada9toUon,''aJthough it may besaid really to ha Va

"caught en •* far the first time on

record, a fact In all probability due to theimproveddelicacy of the coloring.;.'•'\u25a0\u25a0 /-":

/;-:\u25a0'\u25a0--\u25a0 v; '-'* \u2666- :"\u25a0/WawneVreraJ. garment* must be made. in *hutry itis a good pSw to'eyeUmittae' the eewing. First, planexactly how -each one is to be fashioned, and take themeasurements on paper for each. Collect the materials,patterns, butteas. • pins,* • needles, hooks and eyes. tape,dreeej fasteners, fbmld.;bones, jfeatherbone. <\u25a0 sflk, cotton,basting thread, tape Measure, cutting table or board, anilscissors. Also dean and oil

"the sewlag machine. Next

hare a cutting d*y. Cat put every part of every gar-ment and foJd up together... Ba»te all at the same time,stitching up rthe ;straight \ parts 1that .need no bastins.and tthen fit each garment Next"etltch on the machineone,garment after another, and thie probably willprovethe hardest day's worSc. Then finish one, garment arteranother. ?It \usually ::seems more !Interesting, to make \one -article* at ra • time,; flnishlag;each • before beginningthe next, but time is saved by doln? all the cutting a:once, .'followed by'^'wholesale basting, fitting, stitcbins.

vx

Ther Sunday Call.

HINTS FROM THE HOME DRESSMAKERS

i IXGERIE garments .can • be made by 'a ,woinaa

L, who does her own sewdng for small cost, ;o>naturally these .name designs • can' be vu»ed? to

\u25a0 \u25a0iiii malic the:.'most-;"costly garments., -,li. entirely

J^^^j. depends on the materJals'used." Itis economy*nwßif^ to buy cotton cloth by. the twelve yard -bolt;:

for ', there'; ls a saving pcr • yard, and you can get Vbetterquality by the

•bolt 3 than by the yard. ;Ca: goodiQuality

of soft finished long cloth may be"bought; for $1.65 iforthe ;twelve yards. Thia will/make "*

either two'% night*dresses, four chemises, or the ;body part "ot>"eer«ral;skirts-., ,- '\u25a0,'\u25a0;\u25a0'.\u25a0;-' ';'•;--^v;'..:;:.:.;-.".-^'-.;:" -;-'\u25a0

. A;petticoat with'\u25a0 the bowknots of lace i«et in canbe cutifrom four, yards of;long cloth,;and tl£s"- ruffleshould •be^ made of cambric :or:Victoriaitkvn,- a\ goodenough quality, being: bought .'for-18-cents/W' yird.v.tTbUi;ruffle•Is eighteen

'inchfes

*deep, and \will*"1:take •six trtdtiii

;of{cambric,' which ft good many times does not measureQvtr*thirty;or thirty-two s,inches -.iniwidtbifand an ex-cellent' wearing,, as^wellyiu'jextremely"' witty.tlaceicajT:be ? used.f, which' costs "only>8; cents ra^yardj for;- the

'one

inch.width; It Is .-n^chlrie^iiiaddftprchon^^ cotton il«e-rand can b»;boughtjin^the-baaementf;of/mostl6fthe ;big stores. 11;has a:sort of

'a*conUnuous t",y-".fnin-

nlag through the \middle'of'the \irklth;TwithT% '

asmall

diamond shape above and.below \u25a0 each "V."1 Itrjms-Inprice fromlfi'to 12% cents a.yard, and both Insertion ;and'edglng canjbe had In several :wldjths.^ Itis a -stand- F[**&P*tt«n». >nd dpes

*not 5look> cheap: The foot \ruffles 1

can be madelof; the*cambric, ,edged with;this r'sameTpat-Vitern/lace.^jTo; reduce;the~ cost, one ruffle: around ithe '<foot instead of two can; be used." ;

*.-!-jTf.i»jperson wants fine materials \u25a0 for . some\of thelingerie, it:Is weir to watch! the fsales^bMli!in;the bflse-^mente end on the *mainr floors^' Real bargains 6tten^canT*bt \had v *»*»the fine:sheer! materials are ;thcnTwithln 'th»r^^3 0fr^«)woman ;ofjlimited It;is:the; same \u25a0''in'regard :~to?, thY;;laces J and Vembroideries;>ales_severai 'times a year/v There often are 'times \u25a0 when

':,the^ cotton.l^machine • made J torchons

'jare"?being i,sold! for .:

i^Tand ;5;-cents?a^. y^rd;itThelpatterns"? many5

'times

\u25a0 copied troar V**.re*l'laice";patterns, '

and Jare most "attrec-V-i:tive:lookingJwhen iimade":upiT^ 'S [- ' \u25a0-'"''' " " '

TheiTl C ,tnHe? ars the":'":German /or double'threaded vi

:Talenclennes&laceg. ;# Durihg^the •' sales: many- attractive v

patterns^ cant be ipicked; up for from 60; cents ;to, $I^2o j'for a 'dozen: yards..-^

' ': """;

'' '- x.• Anrembroidered princess' slip .was \made \of whitV

taffeta,; a good quality: of which can be .bought for J5cents ;.a~ yard, and the Blip will take, with careful cut-.;tins,Itea;yards. AThe embKrideiry.;. was :all;done *by \ the:iwomaa*; whoTmade}4treolitfc6st;pnly her ttlme. .The' em-;'broidery^patterns fcan \belbought;\be lbought ;and transferred ;to • thematerial^;by>ironing.:"so i.there "Is only;a • slight z expenseIn'that {line.£*Naturally,*,princess ? slips Tot;)taffeta ;are"

\u25a0 nnore ""\u25a0 expensive! tbaufthose }of)lawn-^*nd1perhaps"

lawn-'sometimes the/ purpose.^ But-no" one;^uld\staj£e|thV7timeyto"^

[lawnjsllps. ;\The \u25a0cut^of jtho garments fand ?the. styles Inputting 'oh^the: trimming fare :the essential •p^nts ;to fol-

v1ow.~£Two|peopl ejcanJcopy >the:Baioer; thing,' one woman \u25a0

'making? it3of \ the /sheerest -materials » and:finest;laces,thu* jrunning ? theJcoat V.wayiup. '\u25a0 and

'the;other woman*

•may: turnjout Just aj» dainty a."lookhVg"garment using -good material*.\ andjnot '[such 'iin•\u25a0 the"* trim- *mlng.• It;la

*never Ito buy \poor '* cloth,**but » the:finest .qualities fneed

*riotJbe fchosen^a ndsln .' the" locea.used, ? the*'cotton,? machino Jmade .^torchons are \u25a0 most V In-;1expensive, [and|lffcare] is (used in one's 'pattern^

\u25a0and^isfettlhg^a-;stlff,\r coarse jthVead^chaiinln^olQthes^can \ be'?, made*" at ;*a^minimum cost i.;iThe "style; of cut;

and design .in which' trimmings "are made are ;th'e 'essen-

tialK polnt» ,„:'.• jf"-':.\fi . \u25a0_\u25a0•.. .-:.r":f;' "r" '-'j ,\u25a0' .[-y^i'