CRYSTAL RIVER NEWS CRYSTAL RIVER FLORIDA

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jk OURISTS In generalknow little of the conslderablo stretch ofcountry that extendsnorthward from Turin

i to the southern slopes-of Mont Diane Apartfrom Its Interest tomountaineers in contalnlng the two high-

est peaks in Italy thereare few of its hundreds of valleys thatdo not possess relics in the shapo ofgiant aqueducts and arches half sunken amid tho vegetation of centurieswhich testify to their Importance inRoman times The district aroundCogne the cedter of the mountainousregion is strictly preserved as a hunt

wing ground for the king of Italy Nuiinerous keepers traverse the mounitalns and heavy penalties ore en-forced against any

me AS a cuurpjquonco chamoishave greatly and it Is nowthe only locality in the whole Alpswhere the noble bouquotin or ibexmay be seen in its native wilds-

It was however mainly toif not to climb the Grand

Paradis and the Qrlvolax that thewriter and a friend made a recentvisit to this country We had

In easy stages by way of Chamonlx and the St Bernard occupingseveral days although the district It-

self is within 24 hours of CharingCross and reached the village atdusk when Its Inhabitants had alreadyretired with their cocks and hensWhile in Aosta we had heard much of

the habits and manners of the natives-

of Cogne The Aostans who consid-

er themselves to bo In the front rankof European civilization were nevertired of pouring ridicule on the doings-

of the simple villagers They hadno use for beds but slept In cupboardson shelves one above the other Thewomen made up for a scarcity of linenby a superabundance of cloth whichthey wound round their waists inmany layers under their skirts swell-ing themselves out to an unnaturalsize They wore childishly fond ofwearing medals and beads and woreaprons which they carefully tied upon six days of the week only lettingthem down on the seventh

The day following our arrival wastho occasion of a festival The villagechurch was the center of the

At various times the villagersIssued forth In procession preceded-

by bearers of bannersand Images making the circuit of theadjacent cemetery and giving vent toa mournful dirge as they marched-

It was difficult to approach the na-

tives a sight of the camera I car-

ried sufficed to send them scurrying-to an Immense distance A few half

however Judiciously dlstribnews quick-

ly circulated through the vuhad no lack of models

I21lLPlffe1lM

mulUpl ed r

jour-

neyed

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rs theuted

1 forthwith

2xtaizwoiW-T

photo-graph

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tions

whito gowned

sr workedl4fIla aid4

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Their attentions Indeed became weari-

some were continually met by

damsels arrayed In voluminous garments who appeared unexpectedly-

from corners or chased each otherwith conscious laughter and elephan-

tine grace across ourpatb Two even

wnyjald us stating that In conse-

quence of waiting for an appointmentwhich however they had not kept

they had lost time We compromised-

this matter but began to think thatthe natives were simple than hadheM described and that the

regarding their Jewish descentmight not be wholly without truth

A beautiful vista of snow peaks andglaciers at the head of the Val Non

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toy facing Cogne marks theof the great ridge that

culminates In the Grand Paradls theloftiest peak in Italy We tolled upthis valley the following morningpassing numerous wayside shrinesvery gay within with painted Images-

of saints and Madonnas but pictur-esque and dilapidated externally A

peasant in devotional attitude at oneof them with the mountains risinggrandly above completed a picturethat was very unlike any met with onan English countryside A three hourstramp up steep paths took us to thechalets of Monel which owing to thelateness of the season were untenanted by man or beast They stood Infull view of tho grand Tribulationglacier assuredly well named for Itsmanymile expanse presents a con-

tinuous series of Icefalls and hugeseracs The plight of a climber lostamid this desolation would be desperate Indeed and every gaping crevassewould remind him of quicker routeto the other world than that affordedby the slopes of the Grand ParadIsrising above The next few days werechiefly spent In abortive attempts tophotograph the Grlvola Like theWelsshorn at Zermatt It Is a moun-tain that cannot be seen from thevalley one has to climb to a consid-erable height to judge its positionand owing to the badness of the localmaps and the Ignorance of the na-

tives concerning their own mountainwe had to find the best viewpoint-by the process of climbing each of theneighboring summits In turn We quick-ly found that the Polnte de Poussetwhich has been termed the Gornegratof Cogne was certainly the best posi-

tion and directed our efforts to amore northerly and lofty summit

On the last occasion we started outat 4 a m for we had to descend several miles to the village of Eplnal be

ting on the real additionalBy nine oclock

com-

mencement

o

climb of 60D

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we were clear r

and entered a savage but sublimeTo the north the snowflecked

summits of the Mont Emellus andthe Becca dl Nona towered grandlyInto the cloudless sky while the rockyridges around mounted into towersand spires of Infinite variety

At the pass we were saluted by anIcy gate from the north which In

creased In intensity as we scrambled-up the shattered rocks that formed thelast 800 feet of the ascent The windfairly whistled among the crags andm friend Camosso filled the lucidIntervals with his cries He had oftentold mo that no Italian could under

deso-lation

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i stand what It wasthat induced Englishmen to climb

i mountains and ho-

P now repeated thestatement with several variations Isuggested that theatmosphere ofAosta restaurantsand glace shopswas hardly theright sort of prep-

aration Theof these lux

ij urles seemed totouch a responsivecord for he re-

plied with emo-

tion Ah If I everi get down 1

t never climb amountain againOh what a wind

As we rose theGrlvola grew more

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men-tion

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majestic The beautiful curving snowridge which Is the mountains chiefdistinction was seen throughout itslength from the summit to the gla-

cier which latter from its steep In-

clination was broken throughout by

numerous Icefalls and gapingWe were at a height over

ten thousand feet and less than fourmiles from the mountain and couldseo In a moment that we occupied thefinest possible point of view and theonly position from which Itsgrand northern face could be seenThe view towards the north was

Imposing The whole oftho central Pennine from Mont Blanc-to the Matterhorn were free fromcloud Seen from a southern viewpoint there Is never any doubt as tothe absolute predominance of theGreat White mountain and from hereher height and bulk fairly dwarfed allothers Now while scores of moun-

tains separated by Intervals ofmiles were clear the one for

which the ascent was made was notIn Alpine photography this is almostinvariably the case Faint mIstsformed In the vicinity were drivenagainst the summit and speedily

to enormous dimensionsthese disappeared and others tooktheir place Patience however wasultimately rewarded and for a fewminutes the welcome sun rays pouredover the ridge striking the tops ofthe seracs and filling thewith a thousand shadows The foreground had already been chosen andthe exposures were made just in timeto escape a mass of cloud that cov-

ered the summit for the rest of theday All this consumed much timeand It was late afternoon before weleft the summit We were scrambling-over these rocks In semidarknesswhen the figure of a man suddenlymaterialized on a neighboring ridgeHe carried a gun slung band

of

hun-

dreds of

crevasses

I Ion acr and further

cre-

vasses

near

in-describably

de-

veloped

as

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Shed us by calling upon us to stop

and demanded to know what we wereabout Explanations that we climbed

the mountain for the pleasure derivedfrom the exercise seemed only halfsatisfactory But tourists nerercome here you are too late besideswhich you carry a gun I held up my

Iceax Ah ma fol I took you forpoachers and thought you were afterthe chamois He expressedas bitterly disappointed He had seenua from a distant summit four hoursbefore

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hImself

Indus-

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T T71

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