YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP

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mexico cityPull-outmap andguide

Whether you are traveling first class or on a limited budget, this Eyewitness Top 10 guide will lead you straight to the very best Mexico City has to offer.

Dozens of Top 10 lists from the Top 10 murals, markets, and pre-hispanic sites to the Top 10 festivals

and culinary highlights provide the insider knowledge every visitor needs. And to save you time and money,

theres even a list of the Top 10 Things to Avoid.

Left Mariachis, Plaza Garibaldi Center left Trajineras (boats), Xochimilco Center right Catedral Metropolitana, Zcalo Right Bosque de Chapultepec

Unmissable museums & galleriesSpectacular Aztec ruinsBeautiful parks & gardensBest hotels for every budgetLiveliest music & dance venuesTop restaurants and local delicaciesGreat excursionsMost beautiful muralsColorful local marketsInsider tips for every visitor

Discover traveldk.complan your trip book online receive exclusive offers

This Top 10 Travel Guide to Mexico City divides the huge metropolis into five areas: Centro Histrico, Paseo de la

Reforma and Zona Rosa, Chapultepec and Polanco, Coyoacn and San ngel, and Greater Mexico City.

The maps here show the location and extent of these areas. Each area in the guide is color coded and the color bands on the pages covering a

particular area correspond to the colors shown on the maps here. Almost every place mentioned in the book has a map reference, which takes you to the

maps opening out on the front and back flaps.Monumento a Cuauhtmoc

Mexico City Area by Area

Pyramid of the Sun, Teotihuacn

Iglesia de San Francisco Javier, Tepotzotln

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Contents

Mexico Citys Top 10 Museo Nacional de Antropologa 8

Catedral Metropolitana 12

Palacio Nacional 14

Templo Mayor 16

Palacio de Bellas Artes 20

Bosque de Chapultepec 22

Museo Nacional de Arte 26

Xochimilco Floating Gardens 28

Villa de Guadalupe 30

Teotihuacn 32

Moments in History 38

Historic Sites 40

Museums 42

Architectural Highlights 44

Parks, Gardens, andCourtyards 46

Cover Front: DK Images: Peter Wilson clb; Lonely Planet Images: Neil Setchfield. Spine: DK Images:Demetrio Carrasco b. Back: DK Images: Paul Franklin c, cl; Peter Wilson cr.

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of

going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers

cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of

our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, Great Britain WC2R 0RL.

Reproduced by Colourscan, SingaporePrinted and bound in China by South

China Printing Co. Ltd.

First American Edition, 2008

08 09 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Published in the United States byDK Publishing, Inc., 375 Hudson Street,

New York, New York 10014

Copyright 2008 Dorling Kindersley Limited

All rights reserved under Internationaland Pan-American Copyright

Conventions. No part of this publicationmay be reproduced, stored in a retrieval

system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise,without prior written permission of the

copyright owner. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited

ISBN 978-1-7566-3405-6

Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularityis implied. All 10 are, in the editors

opinion, of roughly equal merit.

Left Voladores, Museo Nacional de Antropologa Right Catedral Metropolitana

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Left Gardens, Castillo de Chapultepec Right Museo Frida Kahlo

Churches 48

Murals 50

Markets 52

Cuisine 54

Entertainment and Performing Arts 56

Outdoor Activities and Sports 58

Festivals and Events 60

Excursions 62

Around Town

Centro Histrico 66

Paseo de la Reforma and Zona Rosa 74

Chapultepec and Polanco 82

Coyoacn and San ngel 88

Greater Mexico City 94

Streetsmart

Planning Your Trip 102

Getting to Mexico City 103

Getting Around 104

Things to Avoid 105

Budget Tips 106

Etiquette 107

Security and Health 108

Banking and Communications 109

Shopping Tips 110

Eating and Accommodations Tips 111

Places to Stay 112

Index 118

Phrase Book 126

Street Index 128

Left Cantina Guadalupana, Coyoacn Right Interior, Capilla del Cerrito, Villa de Guadalupe

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Palacio NacionalPPaalaaaccioo NNaaaccioonnnaal1415144411555

Templo MayorTTeemmmmpplooo MMMMaayyoor1617166611777

Palacio de Bellas ArtesPPPaaalaaccioo ddeee BBBeellaass AAArrtteess202122000221

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MEXICO

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Pulsating with life and culture, blessed with perpetually spring-like weather, and with afascinating blend of history and modernity,Mexico City is endlessly surprising. With excellent museums, ornate churches, colo-nial palaces, and urban parks, the city attracts a large number of visitors.

Preceding pages Preceding pages Preceding pagesP di Main altar, Ex-Convento e Iglesia del Carmen, Main altar, Ex Convento e Iglesia del Carmen, Main altar Ex-Convento e Iglesia del CarmenM i lt E C t I l i d l CSan ngelgeSan ngelSan ngel

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@Catedral MetropolitanaThe largest and most important colonialcathedral in the Western Hemisphere, it took almost three centuries to build and majestically blends Baroque and Neo-Classical styles (see pp1213).

Palacio NacionalThis massive executive palace and governmoffice stands along the east side of the Zcalo showcases Diego Riveras famous mural, Epic oMexican People (see pp1415).

$Templo MayorAn accidental discovery ledto a massive archeological effort that uncovered the ruins of this Aztec temple. A new museumwas built to house the artifacts recovered (see pp1617).

%Palacio deBellas ArtesThe spectacularperforming artspalacio is a cityicon, combining an exquisite white marble exteriorwith an Art Deco interior having Mexican touches (see pp2021).

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^Bosque de Chapultepec Mexico Citys lovely urban park is one of the largest in the world and home to many of the citys top museums and family attractions (see pp225).

&Museo Nacional de ArteThis exquisite palacio is home to the nationsnsive art collection, encompassing nearly five

turies of magnificent masterpieces by Mexicosccst artists, including Miguel Cabrera, Jos Marasco, Diego Rivera, and many others pp267).

*Xochimilco Floating GardensColorfully decorated trajineras (flat barges),propelled by boatmenwith long poles, carrymerry-makers on floating-parties along the shady,tree-lined Aztec canals ofXochimilco, the place where flowers grow(see pp289).

(Villa de GuadalupeOne of the holiest Catholic shrines inthe Western Hemisphere honors the Virgin de Guadalupe, Mexicos patron saint, who appeared in a vision to anindigenous Mexican peasant, Juan Diegoin 1531 (see pp3031).

)TeotihuacnThe largest archeological site in Mesoamerica, and one of the most impressive in the world,this ancient city reached itszenith in AD 550 (see pp325).

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Museo Nacional de AntropologaOne of the most important of its kind in the world,this anthropological museum presents an out-standing collection of Mexican pre-Hispanic art in a stunning modern building. A dramatic central courtyard, highlighted by a spectacular fountain, is surrounded by a series of halls, each showcasing an ancient Mexican culture and society.

Designed by Pedro Ramrez Vzquez and completed in 1964, the Designed by Pedro Ramrez Vzquez and completed in 1964, the Designed by Pedro Ramrez Vzquez and completed in 1964 theD i d b P d R V d l t d i 1964 thtwo-story museum encloses 474,000 sq ft (44,000 sq m) of space y , q ( , q ) ptwo-story museum encloses 474 000 sq ft (44 000 sq m) of spacetwo story museum encloses 474 000 sq ft (44 000 sq m) of space

Carved pillar and water fountain

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@Teotihuacn HallThe finely crafted artistic, religious, and architecturalobjects displayed in the hall (above) reflect the skills of the craftsmen, artisans, and builders of this first greatMexican city. The craftsmen depicted deities in stone carvings, finely painted murals, and on intricately decorated vessels. The huge monolith of the goddessChalchiuhtlicue is one of the highlights of the hall.

!Pre-Classic Central Mexico HallThe hallfeatures artifacts that highlight theachievements in pottery and stone sculpture during the years 2300 BC to AD 100. TheAcrobat from Tlatilco, a finevase, is displayed here.

Top 10 Features

1 Pre-Classic Central MexicoHall

2 Teotihuacn Hall3 Toltec Hall4 Aztec or Mexica Hall5 Oaxaca Hall6 Gulf Coast Hall7 Maya Hall8 Western Cultures Hall9 Northern Cultures Hall0 Ethnography Halls

Key

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Second Floor

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In the garden of the Maya Hall is a reconstruction of Palenques In the garden of the Maya Hall is a reconstruction of Palenque s In the garden of the Maya Hall is a reconstruction of Palenque sI th d f th M H ll i t ti f P l Temple of Inscriptionsp pTemple of InscriptionsTemple of Inscriptions

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$Aztec or MexicaHallThe museums largest hall is filled with impress-ive monoliths and finely crafted objects represen-tative of the immensediversity of Aztec culture. The centerpiece is the intricately carved Sun Stone, a circular disk representing the Mexica cosmos (see p10).

Toltec HallThis hall displays artobjects from the great Toltec city-states thatdeveloped from 8501250. The sculpture of abearded warrior emerg-

ing from the mouth of a coyote (above) can

be seen here.

%Oaxaca HallThis hall showcases artifacts from the twocultures that flourished inOaxaca Zapotec and Mixtec. There is a recon-struction of the Zapotec Tomb of Monte Albn andmany elegant clay vessels with various figures onthem. The Mixtec collec-tion features silver andgold pieces, and carvedjade and obsidian.

^GulfCoast HallThe Olmecs are known for thecolossal stonehead sculptures of their leaders

(above), two of which are in this hall.

Also displayed are stonemasks and sculptures.

&Maya HallExquisite examples ofhighly decorated temple architecture and fineartistic creations of Mayan civilization fill thehall. There are also manystucco figures that illustrate the Mayan ideal of human beauty.

*Western Cultures HallThis hall displays artifacts from western Mexico, including pottery figurinesand vessels of unusual complexity and fine design. The hunchbacked figure of a god on aserpent is notable.

(Northern Cultures HallThe hall features artifacts from northern Mexico.Pottery, masks, and weap-ons form the largest portion of the collection. The highlight is the finelyformed decorated potteryfrom Paquim featuringred or black designs oncream-colored vessels.

)Ethnography HallsThe second floor ofthe museum is filled with brilliantly colored textiles, costumes, and art of the indigenous people from all regions of Mexico. Cultures are organized by state and in relation tothe anthropology halls downstairs.

Museum GuideThe entrance hall contains the gift shop, restrooms, temporary exhibit rooms, and ticket area. It opens into a huge courtyard whoseroof is supported by amodern carved pillar and water fountain. The courtyard has doors thatopen into the museum halls. Each of the hallsdisplays archeologicalobjects from a different region or culture inMexico and each has adoor that leads into anexterior garden areawhere reconstructionsand artifacts are onshow. The entire upperfloor showcases the ethnology collection.

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Aztec or Mexica HallLeft Model of Tenochtitlns Sacred Center Right Aztec stone head

!Sun StoneThis magnificent monolith depicts the first four Aztecworlds, thought to represent locations where the Aztecslived before reloca-ting to Tenochtitlnin 1323. The centralfigure is either the sun god or the earthgod, with a sacrificiaknife for a tongue, aclaws holding human hearts. The four squares surrounding the center depictthe four previous worlds,represented by a jaguar, wind,fiery rain, and water. The nextcircle of twenty squares repre-sents the Aztec month made upof 20 days. Other symbols depict the 18 months of a year and five sacrifice days, representing the365 days of the Aztec year.

@CoatlicueSeveral monumental sculp-tures of Coatlicue, the mothergoddess, who gave birth to the sun, moon, and stars survive. One sculpture reveals her deadly side, with a head like a snake, a necklace of human hands and hearts, and a skirt of serpents.

Tenochtitln andTlatelolcoA beautiful painting by LuisCovarrubias (191987) presentsan idealized view of the shim-mering lake-cities of Tenochtitln and Tlatelolco before the

$ObsidianMonkey Vesselne of the museums

valuable and most viewed objects, this charm-ing vessel in the form of a

monkey holding its tail in both hands is carved from a singlepiece of highly polished obsidian.The monkey, in Aztec mythology, is associated with the god ofwind and black rain clouds.

%Headdress of QuetzalFeathersThe headdress on display is areplica of the original whichMoctezuma II presented toCorts. A complete arc of ele-gant turquoise quetzal feathers are mounted on an exquisiteheadband decorated with red beads, turquoise, and gold.

^CoyolxauhquiThe huge stone head of Coyolxauhqui, goddess of the moon, depicts her warrior goddess persona. Her cheeks are decorated with rattlesnakes. According to Aztec myth, shewas beheaded by her brother,Huitzilopochtli the sun god for impeding his birth.

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conquest, based on writtendescriptions by Corts and other

Spaniards. Although Templo or is shown largeran it was, the painting

offers a stunning glimpse of thelost cities.

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Coatlicue, the mother goddess

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Top 10 Aztec Deities

1 Huitzilopochtli, supremegod of sun and war

2 Coyolxauhqui, goddessof the moon

3 Quetzalcoatl, god of wind and fertility

4 Tezcatlipoca, god ofnight, discord, andsorcerers

5 Xochipilli, god of love,beauty, dance, andflowers

6 Mixcoatl, god of hunting and the milky way

7 Ometeotl, lord of duality8 Xiuhtecutli, god of fire

and lord of turquoise 9 Tlaloc, god of rain and

fertility0 Coatlicue, goddess who

birthed the sun god Huitzilopochtli, themoon, and stars

MythologyThe Aztecs believed that the world was created by the gods, and that their world was in the fifth and final iteration the Sun Stone, themonolithic centerpiece of theAztec Hall, is believed to depthe first four worlds. The heavens were comprised of vertical levels, with the supreme creators, the gods, reigning in the top level. Amothe gods, one of the most important was Coatilcue, an Earth goddess who gave birtto the sun, moon, and stars. Another creation mythdescribes the formation of the world by rival twins, Quetzalcoatl and Tezcatlipoca, representing good and evil. Aztec mythology held that the Universe is comprised of four parts, correspondingsto the four cardinal directions with the convergence ruled from the center by Xiuhtecutli, god of fire and lord of turquoise. The reason that there are oftenmultiple myths explaining single aspects of belief is that the Aztecs borrowed heavily from the Toltec,Teotihuacn, and other cultures. It is estimated that the Aztecs had a pantheon of over 1,500 deities when the Spanish, under the leadership of Corts, arrrived in 1519.

&Cuauhxicalli ofMoctezuma IMoctezuma I, the fifth Aztecemperor, consolidated theempire. His military victories are displayed on this enormous,intricately carved wheel-shaped stone. Eleven historical conquest scenes are depicted, showing battles that occurred in differentparts of Mexico.

*XochipilliThe god of music, song, flowers, and love, Xochipilli sitson his throne decorated withbutterflies and flowers, thesymbols of his realm.

(Ocelotl-CuauhxicalliA cuauhxicalli is a type of ialtar stone and is used to con-duct sacrifices to the gods. The eagle and jaguar are common animal motifs used. Ocelotl is lthe Aztec name for a jaguar.

)ChapulnThis unusual, large, red-colored stone grasshopper, orchapuln, was found on Cerro delChapuln, Grasshopper Hill,which is the hill in Bosque deChapultepec (see pp223) thatthe Castillo stands on today. This place was sacred to the Aztecs and they built a temple here.

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Aztec Relief Sculpture of the Birth of Quetzalcoatl

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Catedral MetropolitanaWith its richly ornate Spanish Baroque faade, Neo-Classical dome, and twin bell towers rising220 ft (67 m), the cathedral is a majestic blend of architectural styles. Begun in 1525 it wasdesigned and built in stages by many architects, artists, and sculptors. The cathedral was consecrated in 1667 and completed in 1813.

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@Capilla de San JosThis side chapel along the west wall of the cathedral can be easily recognized by the colorfulribbons placed in front of the statue of Saint Ramon. The devout believe that a woman can leave a ribbon inscribed with a personalmessage and a lock to put a stop to gossip doing therounds in the village.

Pipe Organs andChoir LoftTwo magnificent pipeorgans (below) flank a hugetwo-level choir loft whichhas intricately worked stalls. Carved figures ofbishops and saints deco-rate the upper level; ivoryfigures adorn the center.

!PendulumFor years the cathedral had been sinking into the soft soil of what was once a lake. Extensive under-rrground engineering efforts have largely stabilized thebuilding. The pendulum (above) suspended from theceiling tracks the tilt, mark-ing a record on the floor.

Top 10 Features

1 Pendulum2 Capilla de San Jos3 Pipe Organs and Choir Loft4 Capilla de San Felipe de

Jess5 Altar del Perdn6 Altar de los Reyes7 Pinnacle8 Metropolitana Sacrarium9 Miguel Cabrera Masterpieces0 Capilla de Nuestra Seora de

los Dolores

Choir, Catedral Metropolitana

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The cathedral was built on the site of an Aztec templeThe cathedral was built on the site of an Aztec templeThe cathedral was built on the site of an Aztec templeTh th d l b ilt th it f A t t l 13

%Altar del PerdnThis splendid gold altar, created by Jernimo de Balbs,stands behind the Doors of Forgiveness, the central entrance to thecathedral from the Zcalo. The doors are open onlyon special occasions.

^Altar de los ReyesThis Baroque master-rrpiece (right) by sculptor Jernimo de Balbs isdedicated to canonized Kings and Queens. The altar has the paintingsAdoration of the Kingsand Assumption of the Virgin both by JuanRodrguez Jurez.

&PinnacleSculptures of the three virtues, Faith, Hope, and Charity, adornthe pinnacle of the clocktower designed by Spanish architect Manuel Tols and completed in 1813. Tols was the cathedrals final architect, and was responsible for adding many of the details that harmonizedand unified the completed design.

*MetropolitanaSacrariumThe sculpted faade of this parish church, whichis attached to the cathedral, is consideredto be the foremost example of the Churrigueresque style in Mexico. Built by SpaniardLorenzo Rodrquez from174068, the interior is in the Moorish style.

(Miguel Cabrera MasterpiecesFour spectacular masterpieces by Oaxaca painter Miguel Cabrera hang in the vestibules above the cathedrals side doors (below)

)Capilla de NuestraSeora de los DoloresThe oldest chapel in the cathedral, it was com-pleted around 1600. Theimage of Nuestra Seorade los Dolores in the center of the main altar is by Clemente Terrazas.

Cathedral GuideEnter from thecourtyard on the northside of the Zcalo. In the front center, is the Altar del Perdn. Behindthis altar are the choir loft and two pipe organs. Next is themain altar with the Altarde los Reyes at the rearof the cathedral. Thereare seven chapels along the left and right side of the cathedral and at itscenter, between the choir loft and the main altar, hangs the pendu-lum that measures thetilt of the building.

$Capilla de San Felipe de JessDedicated in 1636, thischapel (right) honors SanFelipe de Jess, the firstMexican Saint. The 17th-century paintingsillustrate scenes from hislife. The urn on the right side of the chapelcontains the remains of Don Agustin de Iturbe, the first Mexican rulerfollowing independence from Spain.

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Palacio NacionalThis enormous palace dominates the entire east side of the Zcalo. Aztec Emperor Moctezuma IIs castle stood here before Corts destroyed it and constructed his own. The building has been expanded several times, and today it is used by the Mexican Government. The impressive edifice is made of granite and tezontle, a red stone. e

There is a tradition of ringing the Independence Bell every There is a tradition of ringing the Independence Bell every There is a tradition of ringing the Independence Bell everyTh i t diti f i i th I d d B llSeptember 15th, Mexican Independence Dayp , p ySeptember 15th Mexican Independence DaySeptember 15th Mexican Independence Day

Pegasus Fountain, Palacio Nacional

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$ Independence BellPadre Miguel Hidalgorang this bell (above) in1810, when he called for Mexican Independence. The bell was moved here in 1896 by Porfirio Daz.

@Epic of the Mexican PeopleDiego Rivera painted his exquisitely colorful and detailed masterpiece onthe walls of the centralstaircase from 192535. It provides an incredibly rich and vibrant visual history of the Mexican people from pre-Hispanic times throughthe Mexican Revolution. Full of life and whimsy, the mural captures the very essence of the nation.

Historical Murals byDiego RiveraThe second floor hallway has nine murals by Riverapainted from 194152. Eight portray idealized views ofvillage life before Cortscame. The ninth shows a village after Corts arrival.

!FaadeThree doors provide access to the impressive interior of this executive palace. The door on the right is for diplomaticaccess only and is also the door used by the Presidentof Mexico. The door to the left was formerly used bythe Finance Department and was dreaded by all who had to enter to settle their taxes. The central door is the main entrance and leads into a grandcentral courtyard.

Top 10 Features

1 Faade2 Epic of the Mexican People 3 Historical Murals by Diego

Rivera4 Independence Bell5 Benito Jurez Museo6 Garden Patio7 Pegasus Fountain8 Staircase of the Empress9 Presidential Balcony0 Flag Ceremony

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%Benito JurezMuseoThe Presidents office, bedroom, dining room, parlor, and other interest-ing memorabilia from his time in office are featured in this museum (above).

^Garden PatioA delightful botanicalgarden (below) lies sec-luded in the inner court-yard at the back of thepalace just beyond the entrance to the BenitoJurez Museo. It is quiet, peaceful, and sheltered from traffic noise. Walkthe geometrically placed, paved garden paths or sit on a shady bench andenjoy one of the citys prettiest gardens.

&Pegasus FountainThe beautiful main courtyard inside thepalace features a lovely fountain with a statue of Pegasus, the Greek winged horse.Government functionsare held here.

(Presidential BalconyOn Mexican Indepen-dence Day, September 15th, the president of Mexico stands on thisbalcony (above) just

above the central door of the palace andrepeats PadreMiguel Hidalgos famous call for Independence (see p38). Thou-sands of spec-tators gather onthe Zcalo to wit-ness the event.

*Staircase of theEmpressThis simple but elegantstaircase with its ornatebrass railings has onlytwo flights of stairs andno visible support.

)Flag CeremonyWith impressive pompand ceremony a largeMexican honor guard marches out of the Palacio Nacional each morning and crosses the street to the Zcalowhere they raise anenormous Mexican flag (below). All the hustle andbustle in the plaza halts as the flag is raised

Site GuideEnter through the central door and turnleft. The staircase withthe Diego Rivera muralsis on your left. Walk up the stairs, the muralsare on the walls above the landing. Continue upthe stairs to the secondfloor and turn left to see the historical murals.Return to the first floor and turn left to visit theStaircase of theEmpress, the Benito Jurez Museo, and theGarden Patio. Walkthrough the garden and re-enter the palace. Cross the main court-yard and come back out through the front door.

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Templo MayorIn Aztec times the Templo Mayor stood in a sacred walled compound in the center of Tenochtitln(present day Mexico City) before Corts destroyed it. In 1978 a massive round carved stone wasuncovered accidentally near Zcalo that led to a major archeological project, uncovering the ruins of the magnificent double pyramid complex.

The 20 minute video in the museum, near the entrance, is The 20 minute video in the museum, near the entrance, is The 20 minute video in the museum near the entrance isTh 20 i t id i th th t iexcellentexcellentexcellent

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$Wall of SkullsDuring the Aztectimes skulls ofsacrificed prisoners weremounted on wooden stakes forming a wall of skulls (below), or a Tzompantli. The Wall of Skulls found in the museum is a replica of the original. In the ruins, there is also a wall of stucco covered human skulls thatforms a side wall of the Tzompantli Altar. @

Lacustrine Fountain An excellent fountain-

cum-map (above) is locatedin the plaza. The base of thefountain forms a bas-reliefmap of ancient Tenochtitlnsurrounded by the lake, canals, irrigation ditches, and small islands. This pro-vides a contextual overview of the city that surroundedTemplo Mayor before theSpanish conquest.

Monolith of CoyolxauhquiThis magnificent circularcarved stone (above) depicts the dismembered Coyolxauhqui, goddess ofthe moon.

!Museo del Templo MayorThis museum designed byMexican architect PedroRamrez Vzquez displays many of the artifacts dis-covered during the excava-tion of the temple ruins, including the original mono-lith of Coyolxauhqui.

Top 10 Features

1 Museo del Templo Mayor2 Lacustrine Fountain3 Monolith of Coyolxauhqui4 Wall of Skulls5 Chacmool Carving6 Eagle Knights7 Templo Mayor Construction

Stages 8 Temple of Tlloc9 Serpent Head Sculptures0 Tenochtitln Ceremonial

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Templo Mayor was a symbolic representation of an Aztec sacred Templo Mayor was a symbolic representation of an Aztec sacred Templo Mayor was a symbolic representation of an Aztec sacredT l M b li t ti f A t dmythical place,y p ,mythical placemythical place CoatepecpCoatepecCoatepec or the Hill of the Serpentpor the Hill of the Serpentor the Hill of the Serpent

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%Chacmool CarvingThis polychrome sculpted figure (above) ina reclining pose cradles abowl on its belly which was used to hold peace-ful offerings to Tlloc.

^Eagle KnightsTwo of these remark-able life-size clay sculp-tures, each comprisingfive interlocking parts,were discovered in theHouse of the Eagles near the temple. One of them is on display in the museum (above). The Eagle Knights were elite Aztec warriors who dressed as birds of prey.

&Templo MayorConstruction StagesThe Templo Mayor was enlarged seven times as the stature and pros-perity of the Aztecsincreased. These enlarge-ments, referred to asconstruction stages, can be seen on a walkthrough the ruins (right).

*Temple of TllocThe Aztecs madepeaceful offerings to the Chacmool sculpture in the Temple of Tlloc, godof rain, to ensure successful harvests, fertility, and abundance.

(Serpent HeadSculpturesIntricately carved and brightly painted stoneserpent heads (above)are seen to guard thebase of the mainstaircase of this great Aztec temple.

)Tenochtitln Ceremonial CenterThis large scale model of Templo Mayor surround-

ed by other buildings inthe ceremonialcenter of Tenochtitln creates a powerful visual contrast to theSpanish colonial build-

ings standing in the citycenter. The imposing architecture of the temple and the city of Tenochtitln were soimpressive that the earlySpanish colonizers compared it to the great cities of Europe.

Site GuideLook at the fountain near the entrance whichdepicts the pre-HispanicAztec city of ancientTenochtitln. Turn left asyou enter the gate andfollow the one-way outdoor walkwaythrough the ruins. At the far end of the ruins the path ends at the museum entrance. Lookat the model of the Tenochtitln Ceremonial Center as it would haveonce stood, and thenvisit the eight museum rooms in sequence. Turnright at the museumentrance, watch the video before proceedingup the stairs to room 1. Continue through rooms2, 3, 4, and 5. Rooms 4 and 5 are interconnec-ted. Finally take the stairs back down rooms 6, 7, and 8.

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Palacio de Bellas ArtesA true masterpiece of architectural design, thelovely Palacio de Bellas Artes is one of MexicoCitys most beloved buildings and is home to anexcellent performing arts center. It was designed by an Italian architect Adamo Boari. Its broad plaza and formal flower gardens blend into thenatural beauty of the adjacent Alameda Central.

Preceding pages Preceding pages Preceding pagesP di Aerial view of Palacio de Bellas Artes at duskAerial view of Palacio de Bellas Artes at duskAerial view of Palacio de Bellas Artes at duskA i l i f P l i d B ll A t t d k20

$Lobby and VestibuleA classic Art Decoblack marble stairway,leads into the vestibule.Across the black-and-whitemarble floor are the metal-lic theater doors (below).

@Faade Sculptures The exterior faade has intricate and ornatesculptures in the archabove the main doorway. In the center Leonardo Bistolfis (18591933), Birth of Venus, represents harm-ony. The statues on eitherside, by Boni, symbolize love and hate.

EagleOn the dome is GezaMarottis sculpture of theMexican national symbol, aneagle (below). It is perchedon a cactus, eating a snake.Figures under the eagle represent comedy, tragedy, drama, and lyrical drama.

!Statues of PegasusFour sculptures of thewinged horse, Pegasus, in a variety of aspects, by Agustn Querol, stand in the esplanade in front of the entrance to the performing arts center

Top 10 Features

1 Statues of Pegasus2 Faade Sculptures 3 Eagle4 Lobby and Vestibule5 Courtyard6 Murals7 Theater8 Art Exhibitions9 Museo Nacional de

Arquitectura0 Ballet Folklrico de Mexico

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Construction of the Palacio de Bellas Artes began in 1904, was Construction of the Palacio de Bellas Artes began in 1904, was Construction of the Palacio de Bellas Artes began in 1904 wasC t ti f th P l i d B ll A t b i 1904interrupted by the Mexican Revolution, and completed in 1934p y , pinterrupted by the Mexican Revolution and completed in 1934interrupted by the Mexican Revolution and completed in 1934

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%CourtyardThe four-story court-yard is light, airy, and dramatic with red marblecolumns and a high, four-domed ceiling (above).

^MuralsFamous muralists Rufino Tamayo, Diego Rivera, Davd Alfaro Siqueiros, and JosClemente Orozco painted their huge murals on thewalls of the second and third floors of the building facing the courtyard. The contrast between the traditional Art Deco interior and thepolitical murals painted

ith ll b i ht

&TheaterThe theater has amagnificent stage curtain made by Tiffany & Co. of New York. The depiction of the Valley of Mexicoon the curtain is formedwith a million pieces of opalescent glass. Thestunning crystal ceiling depicts Apollo and the nine muses on Mount Olympus.

*Art ExhibitionsThe second and third floors have several rooms and galleries that host international travelling artexhibitions. An excep-tional recent exhibitionfeatured four centuries of European masterpieces in oil (below).

(Museo Nacional de ArquitecturaThis museum occupies the fourth floor of the palacio. Changing exhi-bits feature various asp-ects of Mexico City, and occasionally, international architecture.

)Ballet Folklricode MexicoFolk dances from many regions of Mexico arepresented on Wednesday and Sunday evenings bythe excellent BalletFolklrico. Colorful costu-mes, lively music, choreo-graphy, and stage setsoffer fine entertainment.

Mural ControversyDiego Rivera, anavowed communist,was commissioned topaint a mural for the Rockefeller Center, New York. Nelson Rockefeller, a staunch capitalist,approved Riveraspreliminary drawingsbut when Rivera laterincluded a portrait ofLenin in the mural, Rockefeller insisted that Lenin be removed. Rivera refused, and the mural was destroyed.Rivera reproduced themural on the third floorof the palacio with thetitle Man, Controller of the Universe.

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Bosque de ChapultepecSince the arrival of the Aztecs, Chapultepec has been a special place for residents. Today this 1,600-acre (648-hectare) green urban park includeswoodlands, forest, lakes, gardens, and walking paths, and provides an abundance of activities for the entire family. Los Pinos, at the edge of the park, is the official residence of Mexicos President.

Chapultepec means grasshopper hill in Nhuatl, the language of Chapultepec means grasshopper hill in Nhuatl, the language of Chapultepec means grasshopper hill in Nhuatl the language ofCh lt h hill i Nh tl th l fthe Aztecsthe Aztecsthe Aztecs

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$Zoolgico de ChapultepecThis excellent zoo houses more than 2,000 animals in natural habitats, and isrenowned for its successfulcaptive breeding of giantpandas. Broad shady paths,excellent viewing areas, and well planned rest stops and food courts make this a nice place to spend a fewhours. Rare animals likeMexican naked dogs andnative wolves can be seenhere (see p84).

@Castillo deChapultepecThe former residence of Mexican presidents, thestunning castle (see p245)with sweeping terraces and manicured gardens,now houses the MuseoNacional de Historia.

Hot-Air Balloon RidesThis tethered balloon rises400 ft (123 m), offeringawesome views of the park and Mexico City. On a clear day, it is the ideal place to take panoramic shots of the city.

!Museo Nacional de AntropologaMexicos largest museum,this archeological treasure trove has 12 halls filled with brilliant artifacts that relate each significant chapter in Mexicos pre-Hispanic human history (see pp89).

Top 10 Features

1 Museo Nacional deAntropologa

2 Castillo de Chapultepec3 Hot-Air Balloon Rides4 Zoolgico de Chapultepec5 Monumento a Los Nios

Hroes6 Papalote Museo del Nio7 Museo Tecnolgico de la CFE8 Lago de Chapultepec, Lago

Mayor, and Lago Menor9 La Feria de Chapultepec0 Museo de Historia Natural

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^Papalote Museo del NioOne of the best childrensmuseums, this colorfuland engaging museumhas over 250 interactiveexhibits based on the themes of science, technology, and art. New attractions are addedevery year. There is also an IMAX Theater with tenshows daily (see p85).

&MuseoTecnolgico de la CFEThis museum highlights the developments inMexican industry,science, and technology.A detailed scale model of an electricity generatingplant, railway exhibits with train cars and engines, and oil drilling equipmentare the major draws of the museum.

*Lago de Chapultepec, LagoMayor, and Lago MenorThe lakes are one of the most popularfeatures of the park, and on week-ends they take on a festive air. Hundreds of couples and familieswalk the shady paths surroundingthem or take to the water in colorful rental kayaks, rowboats, andpaddleboats. The walkways are filledwith vendors selling their wares.

(La Feria de ChapultepecMore than 50 thrillinggames and ridesincluding bumper cars, a haunted house, and atraditional roller coaster can be enjoyed at this amusement park.

)Museo de HistoriaNaturalSeveral huge pastel colored domes (above)contain a wealth of exhibits covering thenatural world from the creation of the universe to the evolution of lifeand the world around us.

Los PinosThe official residence ofthe President of Mexicowas moved from theCastillo de Chapultepecto Los Pinos in 1935 byPresident LzaroCrdenas, when he deci-ded to turn the Castillointo a museum for the public. The museum has two sections theAlczar and the Castillo. President Crdenasselected an existingestate within Bosque deChapultepec, LaHormiga, as the officialpresidential residence.He planted numerouspine trees on theestate, and changed thename to Los Pinos. Today this lovely estateis heavily guarded andnot open to the public.

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Castillo de ChapultepecLeft Gardens and fountains Center Garden of the Keep Right La Batalla de Zacatecas, A. Bolivars

Staircase of the Lions, Alczar Section

!Museo Nacional deHistoria Alczar SectionThe lavish east wing of theCastillo, known as the Alczar,was the Presidential Residenceand Mansion of Mexican leaders from 1864 through 1939. Today the Alczar and its gardens havebeen preserved to illustrate the lifestyle of the early presidents.The personal articles of former Mexican presidents are displayed in 23 opulent rooms with lavishfurnishings (see p83).

@Museo Nacional deHistoria Castillo SectionThis section of the museum is based in the oldest portion of the Castillo. The first floors roomspresent Mexicos turbulent historyfrom the Spanish conquestthrough the Revolution. The sec-ond floor has two rooms featuring cultural and social displaysfrom 17591917 (see p83).

Museo delCaracolThe Galeria de Historiais known as Museo del Caracol because the building is shaped like asnail. A spiral walkway islined with exhibits thatportray the struggle for Mexican independence through the Revolution up to the mid-20thcentury. d Section 1, Bosque de Chapultepec Map E4 5061-9241 9:00am4:30pm TueSun Adm, free Sun www.cnca.gob.mx/cnca/inah/museos/metropoli/ghst.html

$Staircase of the LionsThis elegant staircase withmarble lions at the base providesaccess to the rooftop Garden of the Keep. The staircase was built in 1878 to provide access to theNational Observatory, and wasremodeled in 1906 when the lions and statuary were added.

%Stained-Glass WindowsThe east wing has fiveexquisite French stained-glass

windows. The windows at the top of the Staircase

of the Lions have Mexi-can crests, one of aneagle perched on a cactus devouring asnake, and two with a

grasshopper, denoting Chapultepec (Grass-hopper) Hill.

^West TerraceThe terrace on the Castillos west side is landscapedwith a lovely flower garden filled with fountains and statues. Thefront balcony offers wonderfulviews of Lago de Chapultepecand vistas out across the park.

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25An upper room of the Museo Nacional de Historia displays a An upper room of the Museo Nacional de Historia displays a An upper room of the Museo Nacional de Historia displays aA f th M N i l d Hi t i di lcollection of objects acquired from Tsar Nicholas by Porfirio Dazj q ycollection of objects acquired from Tsar Nicholas by Porfirio Dazcollection of objects acquired from Tsar Nicholas by Porfirio Daz

Artwork on the wall of a patio, Alczar

Top 10 Alczar Rooms

1 Dining Room with china from Daz era

2 Ambassadors Reception Hall with Frenchfurniture

3 Reading Room with Emperor Maximilian Ismonogrammed books

4 Game Room collectiongifted to Maximilian I

5 Smoking Room decorated in 19th-century style

6 Carlotas Bedchamberwith Maximilian Is magnificent brass bed

7 Council Room and theoffice used by variousformer presidents

8 Dazs Bedchamberdecorated in FrenchEmpire style

9 Carmens Bedchamber used by Dazs wife

0 The Presidents Officeused by Daz

AlczarViceroy Bernardo de Glvez had the first castle built on Chapultepec Hill in 1785, but the buildingremained unfinished. In 1841 construction resumed, creating a Military Academy. Emperor Maximilian I came into power in 1864 and refurbished the Castilloas his personal residence, creating a luxuriousEuropean-style castle with terraced gardens and patios. Expensive furnishings were ordered from Paris,Vienna, and Italy. Later Porfirio Daz remodeled and extended the castle. The castle continued to be used as a Presidential Mansion until 1939, when President Lzaro Crdenas moved to a smaller residence and proclaimed the castle as the headquarters of the National History Museum. In 1940 the easternsection, the Alczar, became a museum illustrating the lifestyle of the former presidents.

&Main StaircaseA dramatic double staircasewith stone steps and wood-capped brass railings leads to the museums Castillo Section. The upper level is decorated with stunning stained-glass windows and colorful murals.

*Tall Knight and Gardenof the KeepThis lovely formal garden offersviews out over the city. The Tall

(South TerraceThis broad terrace is bestknown for the Monumento alos Nios Hroes which was added in the 1930s. The Fountainof the Grasshopper is locatedright in the center of this grand,sprawling terrace.

)Casa de los EspejosA handsome building, this is also known as the House ofMirrors after the 16 concave and convex mirrors inside. They distort the features of those who look into them. d At the bottom of the road leading to the Castillo

Mural of the Nios Hroes on main staircase

Knight, in the center of the garden, was added in 1876.

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Museo Nacional de ArtePresenting the most important Mexican art collection in the world, the Museo Nacional de Arte is housed in a majestic Renaissance-stylepalacio. The collection includes the Paintings of New Spain (15501810), the art of the 19thcentury Building the Nation (18101900) and Modern Mexico (19001954).

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$The Torture of Cuauhtmoc (1893)Following the War of Reform in 1861 the newgovernment placed a cultural emphasis on the history of pre-HispanicMexico, and by 1893ancient Mexico was being presented as having had a glorious past. This monumental sized painting (above) by LeandroIzaguirre depicts the legend of Cuauhtmoc, thelast Aztec Emperor, and his torture by the Spanish.

@The Virgin of theApocalypse (1760)Painted at the height of his career, Miguel Cabrera used intense color to portray the theme of The Virgin of the Apocalypse triumphing over evil(below).

El Caballito (1803)El Caballito or The Little Horse, (above)Manuel Tolss famous statue, is of King Carlos IV of Spain, dressedin Romanclothing astride his horse.

!Palacio de ComunicacionesBuilt in an eclectic style the interior of this imposing palacio has a soaring stair-rrcase decorated with intri-cate wrought iron work. Glorious paintings adorn the buildings ceilings.

Top 10 Features

1 Palacio de Comunicaciones2 The Virgin of the Apocalypse

(1760)3 El Caballito (1803)4 The Torture of Cuauhtmoc

(1893)5 The Valley of Mexico from

the Santa Isabel MountainRange (1875)

6 Malgr Tout (1898)7 Apotheosis of Peace (1903)8 The Offering (1913)9 The Cloud (1931)0 The Hot-Air Balloon (1930)

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%The Valley of Mexico fromthe Santa IsabelMountain Range(1875)Jos Mara Velasco painted this scene directly from nature, a first for this skilled and highly acclaimed landscape artist (above).

^Malgr Tout(1898)Jess F. Contreras was one of the first Mexican sculptors to embrace modernism.He studied in France for a time, and familiarized himself withthe works of AugusteRodin. Malgr Tout, amagnificent marblesculpture portrays a beautiful womanshackled and bound, stillstraining and yearning for freedom (below).

&Apotheosis ofPeace (1903)In this monumental work(below) Alberto Fustercelebrates the years ofpeace Mexico enjoyed during the reign of Dazby comparing Mexico toancient Greece. Neo-Classical in style, the painting mimics theopaque colors found onRenaissance frescos.

*The Offering (1913)Saturnino Herrn turneddown a scholarship forstudy in Europe,choosing to remain in Mexico. In this master-rrpiece of ModernistNationalism, he captures the unfolding of life. An old man, a youth, and a

travellingife in a

chimilco-stylearge filled withmarigolds, flowers tradi-onally associated ath (above).

(The Cloud (1931)Gerardo Murillo, bestknown as Dr. ATL, is one of the most importantMexican landscape artists. He developed Altcolors, a mixture ofpigment and resin that he used on many different surfaces and especially for his landscapes. The Cloudwas painted at the height of his artistic prowess.

)The Hot-Air Balloon (1930)In bright colors and exquisite detail, this painting by Ramn Cano Manilla depicts people in traditional dress,authentic buildings andlandscape, and a hot-air balloon decorated in the National colors.

Museum GuideEnter the museum fromPlaza Manuel Tols,pausing to look at ElCaballito (The LittleoHorse), by Manuel Tolsin the plaza, just in front of the museum. Proceed to the grandcentral staircase and walk up to the top floorto admire the stunning mural on the ceiling.Walk into the reception hall straight ahead to look at the ceiling muralthere. Walk through thehalls on this floor insequence to get themost out of your visit.Plan to spend mostof your time on thesecond floor where youcan see the deve-lopment of uniqueMexican artistic styles.

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Xochimilco Floating GardensEvery weekend, visitors and the residents of Mexico City flock to Xochimilco to relax, party, and have fun. Aboard colorfully decorated trajineras(flat boats), they enjoy the beauty of these ancient canals built by the Aztecs. The floating gatheringsare attended to by food and beverage vendors,musicians, and craft merchants.

Colorful trajineras at an sembarcadero

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@Embarcaderos and TrajinerasThe flat-bottomed boats arepainted with colorful flowermotifs. Several embar-caderos (boat jetties) arefound near the center of town. Nativitas is the largest and busiest.

Floating MariachisMariachi groups andimarimba bands travel upand down the canals. On being hired, the leaderboards your boat to danceand sing, accompanied by a boatload of musicians tied alongside.

!Boat RideA boat trip through the canals in a colorful trajinera is the best way to experi-ence the floating gardens of Xochimilco. Explore thefestive commercial area as well as the quieter places farther from the landing.

Top 10 Features

1 Boat Ride2 Embarcaderos and Trajineras3 Floating Mariachis4 Shrines5 Floating Food Vendors6 Flowers for Women7 Floating Crafts Vendors8 Flower Gardens and

Nurseries9 Parque Ecolgico de

Xochimilco 0 Waterside Markets and

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Widened for the 1968 Olympics, the canals near Cuemanco are Widened for the 1968 Olympics, the canals near Cuemanco are Widened for the 1968 Olympics the canals near Cuemanco areWid d f th 1968 Ol i th l Cfavored by kayakers and rowing teamsy y gfavored by kayakers and rowing teamsfavored by kayakers and rowing teams

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$ShrinesAt the embarcaderosand along some canals can be found small, well-decorated shrines filledwith flowers honoring the boaters patron saints.

%Floating FoodVendorsVendors in small boatsoffer food for your table. Many have kitchensonboard with hot soup pots or grills to servefreshly cooked favorites.Other boats supply beer and soft drinks.

^Flowers for WomenIt is traditional to give flowers to the women in yourparty, and flower sellers float past offering a selection of colorful blooms.

&FloatingCrafts VendorsBrilliant rugs, colorfulceramics, and all manner of hand-crafted items andjewelry are also available for sale on small boats. Vendors float by, holding theirwares up for all to see, and will come alongside, when invited, to give you a closer look at the selection on offer.

*Flower Gardensand NurseriesFlower gardens, greenhouses, andnurseries are found all along the banks of the canals. The flowers grown here are shipped to Mexico City and throughout the Americas.

(Parque Ecolgico de Xochimilco For a different experience, head to embarcaderoCuemanco where you canfloat in relative peace and quiet through protectedareas of pristine natural beauty. It is also popularwith birdwatchers.

)Waterside Markets and RestaurantsThe embarcaderoNativitas has a bustling shore-side market selling souvenirs and some good restaurants that can be easily reached by boat.

ChinampasThe Xochimilcas devised a unique method offarming. They built rafts with tree limbs andreeds, piled rich lake mud onto the rafts and then planted fast-growing trees with adeep root system in the soil. As the trees grew,the rafts becameanchored to the lake bed. These chinampas,or floating gardens, were soon thriving,growing crops andflowers. After theSpanish conquest, Xochimilco was spared destruction because it was the main source ofthe citys food.

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The holiest Roman Catholic shrine in Latin America is also the most visited in the world. It was here in 1531 that an Aztec peasant named Juan Diego claimed to have seen a vision of the beautiful Virgin who requested that a chapel beabuilt. Over the centuries, pilgrims and the faithful have come to worship the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Pedro Ramrez Vzquez, the famous Mexican architect, designed Pedro Ramrez Vzquez, the famous Mexican architect, designed Pedro Ramrez Vzquez the famous Mexican architect designedP d R V th f M i hit t d i dthe Nueva Baslicathe Nueva Baslicathe Nueva Baslica

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@Nuestra Seora de GuadalupeThe original image of the Virgin on the cloak of Juan Diego(right) is mountedhigh on the wall behind the mainaltar. Viewers stand on moving walkways thatpass below theimage.

Antigua BaslicaThis Baroque temple with four towers and a central tiled dome wasconsecrated in 1709. Designed by Pedro deArreta, the four domed-towers and other design elements are similar tothose found in the temple of Solomon in Jerusalem.In 1904 it became a basilica in recognition ofthe devotion of the faithful.

It was reopened in 2000 after being closed formany years while structural supp-orts were added to protect it fromthe ever increas-ing tilt as it sankinto the soft soil.

!Nueva BaslicaThis new basilica was consecrated in 1976. Theground here is very soft,and the circular design,symbolizing the universalityof God, also helps in evenlydistributing the weight ofthe church (below).

Top 10 Features

1 Nueva Baslica2 Nuestra Seora de Guadalupe3 Antigua Baslica4 Parroquia de Capuchinas5 Museo de la Baslica de

Guadalupe6 Parroquia de Indios7 Capilla del Pocito8 Tepeyac9 Garden and Walkway0 Carrilln

Interior, Iglesia del Cerrito,Tepeyac (Little Hill)

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Juan Diego was canonized in 2002, becoming the first indigenous Juan Diego was canonized in 2002, becoming the first indigenous Juan Diego was canonized in 2002 becoming the first indigenousJ Di i d i 2002 b i th fi t i disaint in the Americassaint in the Americassaint in the Americas

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$Parroquia de CapuchinasInitially a convent forCapuchin nuns and then used as a hospital, itbecame a parish church in 1929 (above).

%Museo de la Baslica de GuadalupeThe collections in thisinteresting museum arprimarily of artistic reli-gious objects related toOur Lady of GuadalupeThere are paintings,sculptures, textiles, andcarvings. There is also acollection of paintings byartists including Cabrera, Villalpando, and Correa.

^ IndiosThis chapel dates from 1649 and in the small sac-risty on the right can be seen the remains of the foundations of the originalchapel built in 1531. JuanDiego lived his final years in this place, and thechapel is frequently ref-erred to as the Chapel ofJuan Diego (below).

&Capilla del PocitoOur Lady of Guadalupe appeared toJuan Diego at the spring now housed in this lovelycircular chapel. Built in1791, the dome is dec-orated with blue andwhite tiles.*

TepeyacJuan Diego found the

roses which appeared miraculously in winter onthe top of Tepeyac, theLittle Hill. Capilla del Cerrito was built in 1749on the site. Fernando Leal painted seven murals depicting the story of the appearance of the Virginto Juan Diego.

(Garden and WalkwayA tiled walkway withstairs and ramps was built to direct the flow ofpeople to the Little Hill.Near the base of the staircase leading up the hill is a lovely rose gar-rrden. The path returning from The Little Hill curvesthrough a large gardenarea with fountains and statues (below). )CarrillnThe huge stone cross

at the far end of theplaza has bells that ringevery hour, and has four different ways of telling time. There is a modern clock, an astronomicalclock, a sun dial, and anAztec calendar clock with 18 months of 20 days.

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Juan DiegosVisionWhen Juan Diego told the local bishop about the story of the vision, he was met with skepti-cism. The Virgin reap-peared to Diego and toldhim to gather flowers,and although it was win-ter, Spanish roses wereblooming at Tepeyac.When Diego opened hiscloak to show the bishop the unseasonal flowers,an image of the Virginwas miraculously imprin-ted on his cloak. Theprelate was convinced.

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TeotihuacnFounded around 100 BC, Teotihuacn becameMesoamericas cultural and commercial center. At its peak around AD 650 it covered 8 sq miles(20 sq km) and included pyramids, temples, and housing for 200,000 people. However, very littleis known about this great civilization and why they eventually abandoned the city.

Teotihuacn or Place of the Gods was named by the Aztecs Teotihuacn or Place of the Gods was named by the Aztecs Teotihuacn or Place of the Gods was named by the AztecsT tih Pl f th G d d b th A t332

@Pyramid of theMoonThe oldest and most important pyramid stands atthe north end of the Avenue of the Dead(above). Recent arche-ological excavations have revealed severalburial sites within, that have sacrificial victims and exquisite offerings.

Avenue of the DeadFrom the Pyramid of the Moon a 1-mile (2-km) longroad leads to the Citadel, and continues another 2 miles (3 km) beyond theexcavations. The 131-ft (40-m) wide road is lined withnearly identical buildingswhich the Aztecs mistakenlybelieved to be tombs when they named the road.Archeologists believe thatthese were used to house civic, government, andreligious functions (below).

!Pyramid of the SunThe pyramids base measures 738 ft (225 m) along each side. A tunnel under the main staircase leads to small chambers of ceremonial importance. Amonumental staircase with 248 steep steps and fivelandings rises 213 ft (65 m) to a flat platform that once supported a temple.

Top 10 Features

1 Pyramid of the Sun2 Pyramid of the Moon3 Avenue of the Dead4 Quetzalpapalotl Palace

Complex5 Temple of Quetzalcoatl6 Museum7 Ciudadela8 Palace of Temantitla9 Tetitla0 Atetelco

Partially restored mural depicting feathered coyotes

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Visit the Museo Nacional de Antropologa to see more of the Visit the Museo Nacional de Antropologa to see more of the Visit the Museo Nacional de Antropologa to see more of theVi it th M N i l d A t l t f thobjects found at Teotihuacnjobjects found at Teotihuacnobjects found at Teotihuacn see pp89ee ppsee pp89see pp8 9

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$QuetzalpapalotlPalace ComplexThree main palaces in the complex are believedto have been the resi-dence of the Pyramid of the Moons High Priest(see p34).

%Temple of QuetzalcoatlThe pyramid built around AD 200 is ornately decorated with sculptures of feathered serpents (below), the rain godTlloc, and the mythicalcrocodile-like symbols for fertile land. Numerousgrave sites containing sacrificial victims andsoldiers have been foundwithin the pyramid.

^MuseumThe museudisplays artifacfound on-site, awell asarcheology,architecture, anhistory exhibits (right). The glass floor inthe main room covers a scale model of the site. Outside, the shady botanical garden is an excellent place to relax.

&CiudadelaThis huge compound with its massive central pyramid is surrounded bywalls that measure 1,312 ft (400 m) on eachside. The massive wallsof the compound are 23-ft (7-m) high with pyra-midal structures on top.

*Palace ofTemantitlaThe most important and colorful murals of the site cover the walls of this dwelling complex. Richly detailed red, green, and yellow murals depict Tlloc and his wateryuniverse. Other muralsinclude a priest sowing seeds and people swimming and playing.

(TetitlaLocated west of the loop road, this complex of dwellingsillustrates how buildings wereconstructed and reconstructed over hundreds of years. Fragments of intricate muralsadorn many of the walls withinthis compound.

)AtetelcoThis major dwelling complex has its own small altar, and many finely detailed muralsdepicting jaguars, coyotes, birds,and human figures. The complex is located to the west across the loop road.

Site GuideYou can park in any of the five parking lots. Lot#1 is the closest to theVisitor Center. Acrossthe road is the Citadeland Temple ofQuetzalcoatl. Head north along the Avenueof the Dead, and turn tothe right to visit themuseum. Next proceed to the Pyramid of theSun. Continue down theAvenue of the Dead tosee the Jaguar Mural on the right side of theroad and then thePyramid of the Moon at the north end of the Avenue. Finally, explore the structures of the nearby QuetzalpapalotlPalace and complex.

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Quetzalpapalotl Palace ComplexLeft Mural, Jaguar Palace Center Palace of Quetzalpapalotl Right Mural of a parrot-like bird

!Plaza of the MoonOne of the sacred ceremon-ial areas in the city, the plaza liesbetween the Pyramid of the Moon and the Avenue of the Dead. The entrance to the Quetzalpapalotl Palace Complexis reached from the southwestcorner of the plaza.

@Entrance to the Palace ofQuetzalpapalotlA wide stone staircase leads from the Plaza of the Moon upto the covered east porticosupported by large columns. The portico opens into a greatantechamber that leads into themain palace complex.

Stone Serpents HeadNear the top of thebroad stone staircase leading to the portico, a huge carved stoneserpents head emergesfrom the wall in a positionof prominence.

$Palace of QuetzalpapalotlThe largest and most elegantstructure in the palace complex, this is believed to have been thehigh priests residence. The origi-nal roof burned in the fires that swept the city in about AD 750.

%Patio of the PillarsThe Palace of Quetzalpapalotlis named after the carved bird-butterfly figures that adorn thepillars of the inner portico.

^Decorative MerlonsThe top inner rim of the portico in the Patio of Pillars features numerous ornatelycarved stone merlons (battle-ments) decorated with bas-reliefsymbols of the calendar.

&Temple of the FeatheredConchesThis temple, located on a level below the palace, features anornately carved stone faade and pillars decorated with bands offeathered conches and borders of four-rr petal flower motifs.

*Mural of Parrot-like BirdOn the staircase leading tothe three-sided courtyard in front of the Temple of the Feathered

onches is a brilliantly colored mural of a parrot-like bird watering a flower with its beak.

( Jaguar PalaceThe palace consists of a large open plaza in front of the middle temple.

The nearby staircases have ramps shaped like snakes, whilethe sloping walls have murals of jaguars in various poses.

) Jaguar MuralsMurals of jaguars, blowing feathered conch shells and withseashells on their flanks, adorn the sloping walls of a few rooms in the palace. In other murals, jaguars are seen lying in nets in a womans arms.

Stone serpents head

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Top 10 Stages of Development

1 200150 BC: Small scattered agriculturalsettlements

2 1500 BC: Construction of the Ceremonial Center, Sun Pyramid, and Moon Pyramidbegins

3 AD 0150: Completionof Sun and Moon Pyramids

4 AD 150200: Plannedcity developed on ageometric grid; new buildings attached toSun and Moon Pyramids

5 AD 200450:Consolidation of state; government establishes control over economic, political, and religious systems

6 AD 450650: Flourishing economy, expansion of buildings, muralspainted, and externalexpansion of the state

7 AD 650750: Population growth and limitedagricultural land poseserious internal crises;colonization and demandfor tribute emerge asexternal threats

8 AD 750800: Decline of the power structure and migration of the officials; the city is damaged by ahuge fire

9 AD 800950: Population greatly diminished; city is in ruins and mostlyabandoned

0 After AD 950: Toltec and later Aztec groups holdthe ruins as sacred and use for their ownreligious ceremonies

History of TeotihuacnMystery surrounds theand language of the pwho built the magnificity of Teotihuacn, ahow this great city came to be aban-doned. Archeological discoveries show that an influx of people froother regions that occin 200 BC resulted in reorganization of the agri-iicultural groups inhabiting the valley and development of the new planned city. The Ceremonial Center contains the oldest buildings, with the Pyramid of theMoon being built first, and the Temple of Quetzalcoatl the last. The city was laid out on a grid pattern, with the Avenue of the Dead running north and south, and an east-tt west road bisecting the city. All of thebuildings were constructed in the Talud-dd Tablero style,and sophisticated drainage and sewage systems were built. Religion was very important, and some of the gods honored were Tlloc, god of Rain,Chalchiuhtlicue, goddess of Water, and Quetzalcoatl, the Feathered Serpent. Home to many skilled artisansand tradesmen, Teotihuacn developed trade throughout Mesoamerica, as its government also extended their rule over neighboring areas. Drought, over-rr population, disease, and social unrest have all -been suggested as causes of the citys decline, which started about AD 650. An extensive fire around AD 750 engulfed much of the city. The buildings were never rebuilt and gradually the city was abandoned.

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Detail of a wall in the Quetzalpapalotl Palace Complex

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p0 Left The Aztec legend Center Moctezuma II meets Corts Right Pancho Villa

Moments in History

Priest and revolutionist crowning Mexico

Preceding pagesPreceding pagesPreceding pagesP di Pyramid of the Sun, TeotihuacnPyramid of the Sun, TeotihuacnPyramid of the Sun TeotihuacnP id f th S T tih

!Early InhabitantsA fertile volcanic valley with abundant resources, a long grow-ing season, and pleasant climate gave rise to the sophisticatedculture that built Teotihuacn (see pp323), once the largest metropolis in the Western Hemisphere. Teotihuacn was aplanned city with straight roads, plazas, government buildings, and spectacular ceremonial pyramids. The city reached the height of its powers in AD 550, but wasabandoned in around AD 750.

@Aztec EmpireThe Aztecs arrived from thenorth, initially as mercenariesand workers. Around 1325 theirgod Huitzilopochtli advised themto settle where they found an eagle on a cactus devouring asnake. This they observed inTenochtitln. The Aztecs wereruthless fighters and by the 1420s controlled the beautifuland extensive city. They devel-oped a firm hierarchy with anemperor, and their conquests spread to the east and south.

Spanish ConquestHernn Corts, the Spanish conquistador, landed with his troops near Veracruz in 1519. As he marched toward Tenochtitln, then ruled by Moctezuma II, he joined forces with the Tlaxcalans, a strong tribe that resisted Aztec dominance. After a bloody anddestructive siege in 1521, Cortswas able to defeat the Aztecs.

$Colonial CapitalThe Spanish built Mexico City on top of the ruins of Tenochtitln. Silver mined all over Mexico fueled the citys expansion and the building of large palaces. When the silverindustry declined, the citystagnated for much of the 17thand early 18th century.

%Mexican IndependenceOn September 16, 1810, Padre Miguel Hidalgo famouslycalled for independence fromSpain. But the city remained a royalist holdout until 1824 when a federal republic, the United States of Mexico, was formed. Turbulent years followed and from 1833 to1855 Santa Anna becamepresident 11 times.

^US InvasionThe USA invaded Mexico in 1847 and occupied Mexico City for ten months. During the battles in Bosque de Chapultepec (see pp223), six young cadets, the Nios Hroes, leapt to their death rather than be captured.

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Many public buildings of Centro Histrico were Church proMany public buildings of Centro Histrico were Church proMany public buildings of Centro Histrico were Church proM bli b ildi f C t Hi t i Ch h pppeeerrrtiesties tiestire-purposed or rebuilt after the War of Reforms (185761) p p ( )re-purposed or rebuilt after the War of Reforms (185761)re purposed or rebuilt after the War of Reforms (1857 61)

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Top 10 HistoricalFigures

!Emperor Moctezuma II (14661520)Expanded the Aztec empire.The Spanish captured him in abattle and later killed him.

@Hernn Corts (14851547)His successful invasion of Mexico began the Spanishcolonization of the Americas.

La Malinche(14961529)The indigenous woman who accompanied Corts as inter-preter and advisor (see p90).

$Miguel Hidalgo yCostilla (17531811)A priest, he is famous for hiscall to arms for independence.

%Santa Anna (17941876)Mexican military leader and 11 time president thelast in 1853.

^Benito Jurez (180672) The most loved president, he restored the republic andmodernized Mexico.

&Emperor Maximilian I (183267) From Austrias imperial family, he briefly became Emperor in 1864 before being executed.

*Porfirio Daz(18301915) Army general and president,he initiated many reforms and modernized Mexico.

(Pancho Villa (18781923) Mexican folk hero, he was one of the foremost leaders of the Mexican Revolution.

)Francisco I. Madero (18731913) A politician, he opposed therule of Porfirio Daz but was soon deposed and executed.

&War of ReformMexicos most loved leader,Benito Jurez, came to power in 1855. He enacted laws that res-tricted the power of the Church. A bitter war ensued, and finally in 1861 the liberals won andJurez was elected President.

*The Maximillian AffairIn 1863, a French army invaded Mexico and the brief rule of Austrian Emperor Maximilian Ibegan before he was deposed and executed in 1867. In those four years he remodelled the Castillo de Chapultepec (see pp245) and built the boulevard, today called Paseo de la Reforma (see pp747). After the Republic was restored, Jurez returned topower until his death in 1872.

(Mexican RevolutionDictator Porfirio Daz came to power in 1872. Authoritarianyet visionary, he modernized theeducation and transportation systems. But the divide between rich and poor increased, andwhen the Daz government annulled the 1910 victory by opponent Francisco I. Madero, the Mexican Revolution began.

)Twentieth Century Growthand ReformThe Revolution ended with lvaro Obregn taking control in 1920.Under the ensuing stable government, Mexico flourished and its capital grew exponentially,and it continues to grow today.

The Storming of Chapultepec, 1847

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p0 Left Courtyard, Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso Right Gardens, Castillo de Chapultepec

Historic Sites

Casa de la Primera Imprenta de Amrica

Aztec dancers,Aztec dancers,Aztec dancersA t d concherosconcherosconcherosh , frequently perform at the Zcalo , frequently perform at the Zcalo frequently perform at the Zcalof tl f t th Z laccompanied by drumsp yaccompanied by drumsaccompanied by drums

! Iglesia y Hospital dJess NazarenoThe tomb of Hernn Cortlies here. To the rear of thchurch is the place whereMoctezuma II met Cortsin 1519. Half a block southis the Hospital de JessNazareno, built on Cortscommand in 1524 to treatSpanish soldiers. d 20 de Noviembre 82 Map Q4 5542-2408 9am6pm MonSat Free

@Castillo de Chapultepec In 1841 the building wasrepaired and adapted for use as a military academy. The last battle of the US invasion of Mexico in 1847 was fought here (see pp245).

Palacio NacionalOriginally the site of AztecEmperor Moctezuma IIs palace,Corts built his own palace there after his victory. In 1562 it became the residence of Mexicosviceroys and the headquarters for all of Spains colonial government in Mexico (see pp1415).

$Paseo de la ReformaThe boulevard was built in the1860s by Emperor Maximilian I to connect Castillo de Chapultepec,his official residence, with the Palacio Nacional. First known asthe Causeway of the Empress, it was inspired by the Champs-Elyses in Paris. It was renamed after the restoration of theRepublic in 1867 (see pp747).

%Casa de la PrimeraImprenta de Amricanstructed in 1524, the first

nting press in the Americas s installed here in 1534 by

ceroy Antonio de Mendoza.day, the house displays a

model of the press andhosts temporary exhibits.d Liceniado Verdad 10 and Moneda Map Q2 5522-1535 10am6pm daily Free

^ZcaloThis is the most importantplaza in Mexico. The cultural,political, and historical center of the city, it is also known as thePlaza de la Constitucin. It wascalled Zcalo after only the plinth (zcalo) was laid of an indepen-dence monument commissionedby President Santa Anna in 1843, but never completed (see p67).

&Parque Alameda CentralThis is the citys oldest park with elegant fountains and shady paths. It was once reserved forthe exclusive use of the aristo-cracy. That practice ended afterthe War of Mexican Indepen-dence in 1821 (see p68).

Fountain, Parque Alameda Central

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Top 10 Pre-HispanicSites

!TeotihuacnThe site comprises 8 sq miles (20 sq km) of pyramids and temple ruins (see pp323).

@TlatelolcoThe most important Aztecmarket of Mesoamerica, nowknown as Plaza de las TresCulturas (see p95).

Templo MayorThe largest and most important temple stood at thecenter of Tenochtitln (see pp1617).

$ZcaloMajor market area and site of festivities during the Aztec Empire (see p67).

%Pirmide de CuicuilcoAn unusual circular pyra-mid at Cuicuilco, the earliestknown city in the Valley ofMexico. d 5606-9758 9am5pm daily Free

^XochimilcoThe canals and floating gardens were created by theXochimilcas (see pp289).

&Museo Nacional de AntropologaFascinating artifacts from different pre-Hispanic culturesof Mexico are displayed here (see pp89).

*ChapultepecThe highest hill in the central valley, it was a Toltecsettlement (see pp825).

(TenayucaPre-Aztec pyramid with two parallel stairways leading to the temples at the top.d Map B1 10am5pm TueSun Adm for museum

)AcatitlnOne of the few intact pyramid temples in Mexico.d Map B1 10am5pm TueSun Adm for museum

*Palacio de Bellas ArtesIt was conceived by PorfirioDaz to be the cultural showpieceof his regime, and constructionbegan in 1904. But, swampysubsoil and the onset of theMexican Revolution stopped work. By 1916 only the grandfaades were completed. Construction resumed in 1932,and the building was completedin 1934 (see pp2021).

(Antiguo Colegio de SanIldefonsoOriginally built by Jesuit friars in 1588, the property was seized bythe Spanish in 1767. After inde-pendence it became a National Preparatory School. Elected presi-dent in 1920, the reformist lvaro Obregn wanted art to mend the country and by 1922 muralists were hired to decorate the interiorwalls. Diego Rivera, David AlfaroSiqueiros, and Jos ClementeOrozco painted some of the bestexamples of Mexicos muralistmovement here (see p68).

)Plaza Santo DomingoOne of the oldest colonial plazas, it is best known today for the Portal de los Evangelistas,where public scribes still write business and love letters for the citys poor and illiterate. In the colonial era the plaza wassurrounded by the Church andConvent of Santo Domingo, the Palace of Inquisition, andCustoms Tax Collectors. d Map Q2

Plaza Santo Domingo

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p0 Left Museo Nacional de Arte Right Hall, Museo Franz Mayer

Museums

Children love the interactive Papalote Museo del NioChildren love the interactive Papalote Museo del NioChildren love the interactive Papalote Museo del NioChild l th i t ti P l t M d l Ni see p85see p85see p8585

!Museo Nacional deAntropologaThe largest museum in LatinAmerica presents a great display of archeological discoveries.Each of the museums hallsrepresents one of the countrysprominent pre-Hispanic cultures,including Aztec, Toltec, Mayan,and eight others (see pp89).

@Museo de Arte ModernoMexicos important contribu-tions to 20th-century Modern Artare displayed here. The artistsinclude Diego Rivera, Jos Clemente Orozco, David Alfaro Siqueiros, Juan OGorman,Rufino Tamayo, and Frida Kahlo.Dont miss the large sculptures in the exterior garden (see p83).

Museo Dolores OlmedoKnown for its collection of 145 works by Diego Rivera that span his entire career, this stun-ning 17th-century hacienda is also a house-museum with nota-ble pre-Hispanic and Mexicanfolk art collections. It alsohouses some of Frida Kahlos work (see p95).

$Museo Franz MayerThis museum houses anincredible collection of decorative furnishings from the 16th through the 19th century. Gleaned from around the world by Franz Mayer, the collection contains exquisite examples of furniture and textiles, silver, ceramics, art, and sculpture. Highlights include a19th-century Mexican silk shawland an 18th-century earthenwarebowl (see p68).

Museo Nacional de Antropologa

Museo Frida Kahlo

%Museo Frida KahloPaintings by Frida Kahlo andDiego Rivera are displayed inFridas blue house, where she lived and painted. Fridas illus-trated diary is here, as well as some early sketches, still lifes,and unfinished portraits. Riveras landscape La Quebrada (1956) isalso here (see p89).

^Museo Nacional de ArteThis museum houses thebest collection of four centuries of Mexican art. Featured are masterpieces by the greatest of the Mexican artists including the famous muralists, landscape, and religious artists (see pp267).

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&Museo Rufino TamayoA fabulous collection ofmodern art and sculpture by internationally recognized artists is housed in this dramatic con-crete and white marble building set in the woods of Bosque de Chapultepec. The collectionfeatures works by internationallyrenowned artists Pablo Picasso, Mark Rothko, Joan Miro,Fernando Botero, Isamu Noguchi,and many others. The museum also plays host to world-classtraveling art exhibitions several times a year (see p83).

*Museo de Arte Carrillo GilThe permanent collection features paintings by early 20th-century Mexican masters, with a large number of oils by Jos Clemente Orozco and DavidAlfaro Siqueiros. These workshave amazing scope, includingportraits, still lifes, and politicalsubjects. Diego Riveras cubist-style, 1916-painting, ElArquitecto, is here as well. The museum is respected for its exhibitions of contemporary work by international and Mexican artists (see p91).

)Museo Nacional deHistoriaThis museum has two sections the Alczar and the Castillo. Thevast collections of the museumare housed in the rooms of Castillo de Chapultepec, the former residence of Mexicanpresidents. The fascinatingcollections cover four centuries and are arranged chronologically.The Alczar section is an astonishing house-museumwhich preserves the lavish lifestyle of Mexicos leaders from 1864 to 1939. The Castillosection offers a glimpse into theturbulent history of Mexico between the Spanish conquest under Corts and the Mexican Revolution (see p83).

Museo Rufino Tamayo

(Templo MayorThe centerpiece of thismuseum is the huge stone disk depicting the dismembered moongoddess Coyolxauhqui. Theaccidental discovery of this artifact triggered the massive excavation of the ruins of the Templo Mayor. Many of theofferings left in the temples forthe gods are on display, including delicate ceramic objects, humanskulls adorned with shell and flint, and the decorated knives of flint and obsidian that were usedduring human sacrifices. Antiqui-ties collected by the Aztecs from earlier pre-Hispanic cities are alsodisplayed (see pp1617).

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Architectural Highlights

Across the street from the Palacio de Minera stands ManuelAcross the street from the Palacio de Minera stands Manuel Across the street from the Palacio de Minera stands ManuelA th t t f th P l i d Mi t d M lTolss famous sculpture,p ,Tols s famous sculptureTolss famous sculpture El CaballitoEl CaballitoEl Caballito ((((The Little HorseThe Little HorseThe Little Horse))))

!Catedral MetropolitanaThis magnificent cathedral reflects the changing archi-tectural styles during its twocenturies of construction. Workbegan in 1573, and continueduntil 1813. Among other styles, Baroque, Neo-Classical, and Churrigueresque are most evident (see pp1213).

@Antiguo Colegio de SanIldefonsoThis imposing colonial building, with