top10 uses for olive oil - finecooking · cheese and seafood rarely mix, a risotto of shrimp or...

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www.finecooking.com Photo: Laurie Smith © 2006 The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and/or distribution of this article is not permitted. COMPILED BY SARAH BRECKENRIDGE T here are many ways to play up the special qualities of olive oil, whether it’s a tiny bottle of boutique extra-virgin or a hulking can of everyday stuff (yes, even the everyday oils have special qualities). We’ve pulled together our favorite reci- pes and methods for cooking with this liquid gold, from a simple drizzle over ri- sotto to a surprisingly good way to fry foods. Top 10 Uses for Olive Oil Fine Cooking magazine features hands-on, how- to cooking information for cooks of all skill levels. The magazine is published seven times a year. Visit FineCooking.com to subscribe today.

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Page 1: Top10 Uses for Olive Oil - FineCooking · cheese and seafood rarely mix, a risotto of shrimp or other shellfish gets finished with a dose of extra-virgin olive oil instead of a sprinkle

� www.finecooking.com

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© 2006 The Taunton Press, Inc. Copying and/or distribution of this article is not permitted.

compiled by Sarah breckenridge

There are many ways to play up the special qualities of olive oil, whether it’s a tiny bottle of boutique extra-virgin or a

hulking can of everyday stuff (yes, even the everyday oils have special qualities). We’ve pulled together our favorite reci-pes and methods for cooking with this liquid gold, from a simple drizzle over ri-sotto to a surprisingly good way to fry foods.

Top 10 Uses for Olive Oil

Fine Cooking magazine features hands-on, how-to cooking information for cooks of all skill levels. The magazine is published seven times a year.

Visit FineCooking.com to subscribe today.

Page 2: Top10 Uses for Olive Oil - FineCooking · cheese and seafood rarely mix, a risotto of shrimp or other shellfish gets finished with a dose of extra-virgin olive oil instead of a sprinkle

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Drizzle on its ownIt’s amazing how many dishes are brought to life and made incredibly lush just by finish-ing with a drizzle of high- quality olive oil. It can stand in for a full-blown dressing in salads that already have some acidity, such as sliced fennel with oranges or ripe summer tomatoes. It adds body and richness to lean vegetable soups, like gazpacho. And in Italy, where cheese and seafood rarely mix, a risotto of shrimp or other shellfish gets finished with a dose of extra-virgin olive oil instead of a sprinkle of Parmigiano.

Serves six.

61⁄2 cups fish or shellfish broth1⁄4 cup plus 2 Tbs. extra-virgin

olive oil2 cups chopped onions1 tsp. kosher salt2 cups short-grain risotto rice,

such as Arborio or Canaroli1 cup dry white wine1⁄2 tsp. saffron threads,

steeped in 1⁄2 cup hot water for 5 minutes

1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled and deveined

3 Tbs. thinly sliced scallions (white and light-green parts)

In a large pot, bring the broth almost to a boil and then reduce the heat to very low, keeping it just below a simmer.

Heat �⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil over medium heat in a heavy-duty, 3- to 4-quart straight-sided sauté pan at least �0 inches wide, or a similar-size Dutch oven. Add the onions and �⁄2 tsp. of the salt, and cook slowly, stirring fre-quently with a wooden spoon until softened, 8 to �0 minutes. Add �⁄2 cup water, lower the heat to medium low, and continue cooking until the water is com-pletely gone and the onions are soft and glistening but not browned, 5 to �0 minutes more.

Add the rice to the pan and raise the heat to medium. Cook, stirring constantly, to coat the rice with the oil, about 3 minutes. The toasted rice should still be

white and glistening, but you should hear a clicking sound when you stir it. Pour in wine and cook, stirring constantly, until it’s mostly absorbed, 2 to 3 minutes.

Add saffron and its soaking liquid. Ladle ��⁄2 cups of the hot broth into the pot to barely cover the rice, and stir constantly. Add the remaining �⁄2 tsp. salt, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed—and the rice is dry enough that your spoon leaves a trail show-ing the bottom of the pot—ladle in another cup of liquid, again stirring until it’s all absorbed.

Continue adding liquid in � cup increments, always stir-ring, until you’ve added 4 cups of broth and the rice is nearly but not fully al dente; this is usually �2 to �6 minutes after the first addition of broth. Add the shrimp and another cup of broth and stir until the broth is almost ab-sorbed, about 4 minutes more.

Taste the rice; if it’s creamy and al dente, remove it immedi-ately from the heat. Otherwise, let it cook a little longer, incorpo-rating the remaining ��⁄2 cups of broth as needed. Remove from the heat and stir in the scallions. Add the remaining olive oil and serve.

—Lidia Bastianich,Fine Cooking #78

Saffron and Shrimp Risotto with Scallions

Photos: Scott Phillips

Herb InfusionA simple, quick way to add flavor to olive oil is to steep fresh herbs in warmed oil. You can use just about any herb whose flavor harmonizes with olive oil, such as basil, sage, oregano, or rosemary. Or try this version, which includes garlic for an added kick. The infused oil can be brushed on toasted bread, drizzled over roasted vegetables, or substi-tuted for regular oil in salad dressings.

Rosemary-Garlic OilYields 11⁄2 cups.

11⁄2 cups extra-virgin olive oil6 cloves garlic, smashed and

peeled3 sprigs fresh rosemary

Heat the olive oil and garlic in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the garlic starts to bubble steadily, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the rosemary, remove from the heat, and let cool to room temperature. Transfer to a clean glass jar or other storage container, cover, and refrigerate. Use within five days.

—Tony Rosenfeld,Fine Cooking #80

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5Frying Olive oil is a natural for sautéing, but many people hesitate to use it in pan-frying or deep frying.

According to Peggy Knick-erbocker, author of Olive Oil: From Tree to Table, olive oil isn’t absorbed as quickly as other fats, so foods fried in it are crunchier, less greasy, and lower in fat and calories than they would be fried in other fats. It doesn’t make sense, though, to fry in an expensive extra-virgin olive oil, since it has a lower smoke point (the temperature at which the oil begins to break down) than regular, less expensive processed olive oils. In addition, high heat destroys the delicate flavors of an expensive oil.

Baking We tend to think of olive oil as something that belongs in savory dishes, not sweet. But the fruity qualities of some extra-virgin olive oils make them a terrific addition to some cakes, cookies, and biscotti. It pairs especially well with fig, orange, and lemon flavors. You can ex-periment with using olive oil in your favorite desserts by substituting it in recipes that already use a vegetable oil for the fat (swap it in for butter or shortening, and you could get very different results). Or try our Dark Chocolate Cake or Carrot Cake with Orange Cream-Cheese Frosting at FineCooking.com, recipes that owe their tender, most crumb to olive oil.

Olive-Oil–Fried AlmondsYields 2 cups.

The almonds and herbs are crisp, salty, and sure to whet your ap-petite. Canned cocktail nuts don’t hold a candle to these.

2 cups blanched almonds 1 cup olive oil8 large fresh sage leaves2 Tbs. fresh rosemary leaves1 Tbs. fresh thyme leaves1 tsp. sea salt

Set a metal strainer over a large heatproof bowl to quickly drain the almonds at the end of cook-ing. Put the almonds and olive oil in a 3- or 4-quart saucepan with a lid (the nuts and oil should fill no more than one-third of the pot). Set the pot over medium heat, stirring almost constantly until the almonds are lightly golden, 3 to �0 minutes, de-pending on your stove and pot. Toss in the sage, rosemary, and thyme simultaneously and cover the pot immediately with the lid to prevent the oil from spattering. Remove the pot from the heat. The herbs will make a popping sound as they cook.

After the popping dies down, remove the lid and immediately pour the almonds into the strainer. Spread the drained almonds on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with the salt. When they’re thoroughly cooled, store them in an airtight plastic container at room temperature.

—Maria Helm Sinskey,Fine Cooking #72

Photo: Scott Phillips

PestoA versatile olive-oil based sauce, pesto is good with pasta and potatoes as well as chicken and fish.

Basil PestoYields about 1 cup.1⁄4 cup pine nuts 2 cloves garlic, smashedPinch salt3 cups loosely packed basil

leaves, stems removed1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil1⁄4 cup grated Parmigiano-

Reggiano

Chop the nuts, garlic, and salt in a food processor until fine. Add the basil and oil and process until smooth. Add the Parmigiano and process to incorporate. Taste for salt.

—Molly Stevens, Fine Cooking #38

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8Pasta sauceThe Italian classic spaghetti aglio e olio is sauced with little more than garlic and olive oil (red pepper flakes also make an appearance, and in our twist here, pecorino and rosemary). When the oil plays such a star-ring role, be sure to choose a good, full-flavored one.

Dip for vegetablesThe Italian appetizer pinzimo-nio is nothing more than fresh, crunchy seasonal vegetables (fennel, radishes, peppers, celery, and others) served with a dish of salt-and-pepper- seasoned extra-virgin olive oil. When your oil is fresh and top quality, there’s nothing better. Or, if you want a dip that packs even more punch, try the same vegetables served with the anchovy-and-garlic-spiked bagna cauda (literally,

Spaghetti with Garlic, Hot Pepper & PecorinoServes four.

Kosher salt3 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil4 cloves garlic, cut in half and

smashedHeaping 1⁄4 tsp. crushed red

pepper flakes2 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary3⁄4 lb. dried spaghetti3⁄4 cup freshly grated Pecorino

RomanoFreshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.

Heat the oil and garlic in a �0-inch straight-sided sauté pan over medium-low heat, stirring, until the garlic becomes fragrant and starts to brown all over, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the red pepper flakes and rosemary, cook for 30 seconds, and then remove from the heat.

Cook the spaghetti in the boiling salted water, stirring occasionally until it’s just tender to the tooth (see the package for cooking time). Reserve �⁄2 cup of the pasta water and drain the pasta.

Return the sauté pan to medium heat and fish out and discard the garlic. Add the drained pasta and �⁄4 cup of the reserved pasta water. Cook for � to 2 minutes, tossing and stirring, to blend the flavors. If the pasta isn’t tender, add the remainder of the cooking water and continue to cook and stir until done. Toss with half of the pecorino and �⁄2 tsp. black pepper. Season with salt and more pepper to taste.

Serve immediately, sprinkled with the remaining pecorino and a few grinds of black pepper.

—Tony Rosenfeld,Fine Cooking #8�

“hot bath”).

Bagna CaudaYields about 21⁄2 cups.

1 small head fresh garlic, about 2 oz.

1 can (600g) salt-packed anchovies, filleted

11⁄2 cups extra-virgin olive oil

Peel the garlic, cut the cloves in half lengthwise, and slice each one as thin as possible.

In a heavy-based saucepan or a water bath, combine the anchovies, garlic, and olive oil. Over a low flame, cook until the anchovies have “melted,” �2 to �5 minutes in the pan, a bit longer in the water bath. Stir often with a wooden spoon. The anchovies should fall apart and form a thick sediment, and the garlic will soften in both texture and pungency.

PoachingSubmerged in olive oil and cooked slowly over low heat, fish or chicken develops an unbelievably rich, unctuous texture and flavor. The tech-nique is similar to making a confit, except that you’re substituting fruity-flavored olive oil for the duck fat. Our recipe for Fresh Tuna Confit at FineCooking.com is a great starting point, but the tech-nique also works with halibut, salmon, sablefish, and other thick fillets of firm-textured fish. Vegetables, including tomatoes, small potatoes, and artichokes, can also be poached in olive oil with delicious results.

Photos: left, Scott Phillips; right, Brian Hagiwara

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9 10Vinaigrette Infinitely adaptable, a simple vinaigrette is a great way to show off a good olive oil. It’s perfect for green salads, of course, but also good on cool or room-temperature potatoes, rice, grains, pasta, beans, and lentils. Or try driz-zling it over grilled or roasted vegetables, or steamed fish or chicken.

Classic VinaigretteYields about 1 cup.1⁄4 cup red- or white-wine vinegar1 tsp. Dijon mustard1⁄4 tsp. salt, or to taste1⁄8 tsp. freshly ground black

pepper, or to taste3⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a small bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Whisking constantly, add the oil in a slow, steady stream until completely incorpo-rated and the sauce is slightly thickened and emulsified.

VARIATIOnS:Herb: Make the basic recipe and add 3 Tbs. fresh herbs, single or a mix. Especially good are pars-ley, basil, dill, tarragon, chervil, and cilantro.

Roasted garlic: Toss �0 un-peeled cloves of garlic in olive oil, wrap tightly in aluminum foil, and roast at 400°F for 30 minutes, until very soft. When the garlic has cooled a bit, squeeze the pulp from the skins and combine it with �⁄4 cup white-wine vinegar, �⁄2 tsp. grated lemon zest, �⁄4 tsp. fresh thyme, and purée the mix-ture in the food processor. Add olive oil according to the basic recipe and omit the mustard.

Black olive: Make the basic recipe using red-wine vinegar. Whisk in � minced clove garlic, 2 tsp. chopped capers, �⁄3 cup finely chopped Kalamata or other good black olives, 2 finely minced anchovy fillets, and � Tbs. chopped fresh mint.

Sun-dried tomato basil: Make the basic recipe with either vine-gar and whisk in 3 Tbs. chopped sun-dried tomatoes in oil, �⁄2 cup finely diced fresh tomato, 2 Tbs. chopped fresh basil, and �⁄2 tsp. grated orange zest.

Caesar-style: Purée together 2 Tbs. fresh lemon juice, 3 chopped anchovy fillets, 2 cloves garlic, 3 Tbs. grated Parmigiano, and a dash of hot sauce. Whisk this purée into the basic recipe made with white-wine vinegar.

—Molly Stevens,,Fine Cooking #38

MayonnaiseThe flavor of homemade mayonnaise will spoil you on the store-bought stuff forever. And while mayonnaise is usually made with a more neutral-tasting oil, such as canola, a good extra-virgin olive oil makes for a wonder-fully vibrant mayonnaise that pairs well with all kinds of Mediterranean flavors, such as this roasted chicken salad.

Creamy MayonnaiseYields about 11⁄4 cups.

2 large egg yolks1 tsp. fresh lemon juice or

white-wine vinegar1⁄2 tsp. Dijon mustard 1 cup olive oil or extra-virgin

olive oilSalt and freshly ground white

pepper

Whisk the yolks, lemon juice, and mustard together until frothy. Slowly whisk in the oil, a drop at a time, until the sauce begins to emulsify. Add the remaining oil in a slow, steady stream, whisking constantly. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

VARIATIOnS:Aïoli: Smash and mince 3 to 4 cloves garlic. Make the basic mayonnaise, adding the garlic to the yolks and lemon juice, omitting the mustard.

Lemon-herb: Add � tsp. grated lemon zest and �⁄4 cup chopped fresh herbs (such as dill, parsley, tarragon, chervil, or basil) to the basic recipe.

Rouille: Roast, peel, seed, and purée � medium red bell pepper. Whisk together with �⁄2 tsp. tomato paste and � large clove garlic, smashed and minced. Make the basic mayonnaise, omitting the mustard. Whisk in the bell pepper and tomato mixture and season with �⁄4 tsp. hot sauce, or more to taste.

—Molly Stevens,Fine Cooking #38

Serves eight to ten.

31⁄2-lb. whole chicken, rinsed and dried

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

5 Tbs. extra-virgin olive oil 3 cloves garlic, chopped 1⁄2 cup homemade mayonnaise 2 medium heads fennel,

trimmed, halved, and cut lengthwise into 1⁄8-inch slices

6 inner ribs celery, cut into 1⁄8-inch slices

1⁄2 cup oil-cured black olives, rinsed, patted dry, pitted, and coarsely chopped

3 Tbs. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Finely grated zest of 2 lemons1 small red onion, halved, thinly

sliced into half moons, and soaked in ice water for 1 hour

Roast the chicken: Heat the oven to 375°F. Massage salt and pepper all around the cavity and on the skin of the chicken. Driz-zle with 2 Tbs. of the olive oil and rub that in as well. Set the bird on a rack in a shallow roasting pan and roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of the thigh reads �70° to �75°F, or the juices run

clear, about 75 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool to room temperature. Pick the meat off the chicken. By hand, shred the meat into bite-size pieces along the grain of the meat. Discard the skin, bones, and cartilage (or save for stock). If working ahead, wrap the meat tightly and refrigerate.

Assemble the salad: In a small saucepan, slowly heat the remaining 3 Tbs. oil and the chopped garlic until the garlic begins to brown, 4 to 5 minutes; it should be lightly toasted. Pour into a small bowl to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, com-bine the shredded chicken with the mayonnaise and toss gently. Add the fennel, celery, olives, parsley, lemon zest, and toasted garlic with its oil. Drain the onions, dry them on a towel, and add them to the salad. If the salad seems dry, add more mayonnaise. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Put the salad on a platter or in a serving bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Serve cold.

—Craig Stoll Fine Cooking #59

Roasted Chicken Salad with Fennel & Black Olives

Photo: France Ruffenach