tour report - birdquest-tours.com rep 07.pdf · tour report leader: pete morris and carl downing it...

1 Birdquest: Colombia 2007

COLOMBIA

12 JANUARY – 4 FEBRUARY 2007

TOUR REPORT

LEADER: PETE MORRIS and CARL DOWNING It had been seven years since our last visit to the most bird-rich country on the planet and a return visit was long overdue! Despite a few logistical hiccups, our first tour around our newly designed itinerary worked well and was a great ornithological success. We recorded a huge total of 638 species between us including a large number of endemics and localized specialities. No fewer than 37 of these were, according to BirdLife International, species of conservation concern (three critically endangered, 10 endangered, 14 vulnerable and 10 near-threatened). The highlights were many and varied, but special mention should go to some of the more popular species among the group. The critically endangered and stunning Yellow-eared Parrot was our bird of the trip, but hot on its heels were the fantastic and endangered Gold-ringed Tanager and White-mantled Barbet. The superb White-capped Tanager and vulnerable Turquoise Dacnis-Tanager completed the top five, while just outside were Rusty-breasted Antpitta, Red-bellied Grackle and Sooty Ant-Tanager. Meeting up was the first challenge as we were arriving from several points on the globe. The bulk of us were coming from London via Madrid, and, despite a minor scare for the leader, all arrived on time for the flight from Madrid to Bogotá. Sadly the airline had other ideas, and we eventually took off rather late, and consequently our arrival into Bogotá was very late, meaning very little or virtually no sleep! Still we got there, whereas poor Cliff was still stuck in the States thanks to a strike, and did not see us until the following evening! Our first day out saw us heading west from the capital to Laguna Pedro Palo. We arrived in the half light and as we munched on croissants, the dawn chorus began with Yellow-bellied Elaenias and Southern House Wrens. The excitement of moving continent crept up on us all, and we were eager to get going! The lagoon was not the focus of our visit, but rather the woodland surrounding it, though we did take time out to look at some splendid White-throated Crakes by the lagoon. Ash-browed Spinetails investigated bromeliads while Azara’s Spinetails called from the undergrowth, and we saw our first hummers including Booted Racket-tail, Violet-crowned Woodnymph, Andean Emerald and Steely-vented Hummingbird, and, for a lucky few, a female Gorgeted Woodstar. Colourful tanagers flocks included gems such as Blue-necked, Golden, Beryl-spangled, Black-capped and Flame-faced Tanagers, as well as the localized Scrub Tanager, and it was in these flocks that we found the star of the morning in the shape of a superb male Turquoise Dacnis-Tanager. A drab male Dull-coloured Grassquit confused us with its all dark bill and other notable species included Lineated and Montane


Foliage-gleaners, Mountain Elaenias, Sooty-headed Tyrannulets, Whiskered Wren, Canada and Mourning Warblers, and both Moustached and Chestnut-capped Brush-finches. As our chances of finding more goodies subsided, we headed for lunch and in the afternoon explored some areas of shade coffee lower down. Here, the stars of the show included a fine male Bar-crested Antshrike (with a Barred Antshrike nearby for excellent comparisons), the local race of Speckle-breasted Wren (possibly worthy of specific status), some fine endemic Velvet-fronted Euphonias, and a surprise in the form of a very confiding male Short-tailed Emerald. We then headed back to the capital for a well-earned dinner and rest! With the general degradation and disappearance of wetlands in the Bogotá area, we decided to head further afield the following day in order to search for a couple of key species. Our first port of call was Laguna de Fúquene, and very soon the scopes were trained on our first target, the globally threatened Apolinar’s Marsh-Wren, which showed extremely well. The wetland was alive with other waterbirds including good numbers of Spot-flanked Gallinule and a fine male Least Bittern of the rare and endemic bogotensis subspecies. Nearby we found another endemic in the shape of a showy pair of Silvery-throated Spinetails as well as some attractive Yellow-backed Orioles. We then switched location and headed for another wetland where, after just a little bit of searching, we found several excellent Bogotá Rails. A pair of Andean Ducks and several Blue-winged Teals inhabited the same wetland as did a small number of Noble Snipe, one of which gave superb views out in the open. After a quick lunch, we headed to a mountain overlooking the capital, and were soon rooting around in the bamboo trying to tease out an Ash-coloured Tapaculo which finally surrendered! Mixed flocks here held, amongst others, Agile Tit-Tyrants, stunning Golden-fronted Whitestarts, Bluish and Black Flower-piercers, Black-capped and Black-eared Hemispinguses, gaudy Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanagers, some fine Plushcaps, and, for some, a Rufous-browed Conebill. On what was an action-packed day, we then headed down to Bogotá airport for dinner and our flight to Cali. With the Andes forking into three in Colombia, and a west slope and east slope to each, and endemic rich valleys in between, one starts to get the picture as to why this country is so bird-rich and the avifauna so complicated (and we haven’t even mentioned the Santa Marta Mountains and the Amazon)! Having caught up with a few Eastern Andean species around Bogotá, we now found ourselves in the Western Andes where we spent a very enjoyable day to the west of Cali. In the morning we took a very leisurely stroll along a broad track where pride of place went to the endemic Multicoloured Tanager. The somewhat degraded forest was also full of other goodies and during the morning we caught up with a number of them. Skulkers such as a fine White-throated Quail-Dove and Nariño Tapaculo were enticed into view and the understorey also hosted a male Uniform Antshrike, an intricately marked Spotted Barbtail, a showy Streak-capped Treehunter and a fine Black-throated Tody-Tyrant. Searching through the flocks we found Red-faced Spinetails, Variegated Bristle-Tyrants, a canopy Ashy-headed Tyrannulet that posed in the scope and Black-billed Peppershrike. Other highlights included colourful Crimson-rumped Toucanets and Green-and-black Fruiteaters, a noisy flock of Scarlet-fronted Parakeets and fine views of several Sickle-winged Guans whilst colourful tanagers continued to please as we added several new species including the stunning Purplish-mantled Tanager as well as several Tangara species including Saffron-crowned, Metallic-green and Golden-naped Tanagers. After a hearty lunch, some siesta time was required, and a comfortable garden full of busy hummingbird feeders provided the perfect setting for this! Here we managed to lift our heads to marvel at gorgeous males of Blue-headed Sapphire, Green-crowned Woodnymph and Purple-throated Woodstar, and were generally entertained by the comings and goings of literally hundreds of hummers! Indeed we recorded 14 species of hummingbird that afternoon! After a second night in Cali, we made our way up the Cauca Valley and made a stop at Bosque Yotoco. Although there are records of a number of scarce species from this area, the birding is not easy along the rather steep and narrow trail and we had a fairly quiet morning. Nevertheless, we scored on the endemic Colombian Chachalaca, had superb views of the skulking Chestnut-crowned


Gnateater, and found an extremely confiding Cauca Guan, so our efforts were not totally in vain!! We then headed on to Laguna de Sonso where a broken bridge meant that we had to walk in and out. Luckily there were plenty of birds to keep us occupied and highlights included good numbers of Spectacled Parrotlets, several Dwarf Cuckoos, some brilliant Jet Antbirds, a confiding Slate-headed Tody-Tyrant, Cinereous Becards, Orange-crowned Euphonias and some superb roosting Common Nighthawks and Common Potoos, as well as good numbers of some widespread waterbirds. We were up early the following morning as usual, though a technical hitch with the bus caused us a delay! We then crossed the Western Andes and arrived at our destination El Cairo in the Chocó region, one of the wettest places on our planet! Over the course of the next two days, we had ample experience of the rain, but in the few pauses we found a fabulous array of west slope specialities and Chocó endemics. Pride of place went to the stunning Gold-ringed Tanager, a rare and little-known endemic, with vivid plumage that surprised us all! Almost as colourful were some of the other Chocó endemics which included the gorgeous Violet-tailed Sylph, Velvet-purple Coronet, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Indigo Flower-piercer, Glistening-green Tanager and Yellow-collared Chlorophonia. Subtlety was added by Olivaceous Piha, Uniform Treehunter and the much-wanted Fulvous-dotted Treerunner and other goodies at this fabulous site included Highland Motmot, Yellow-vented Woodpecker, a glistening male Golden-headed Quetzalm White-tailed Hillstar, Empress Brilliant, Brown Inca, the elusive Black Solitaire, the much-wanted Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager and Tricoloured Brush-Finch. We also made a little effort (which for most involved standing on the hotel balcony with binoculars just before dinner) in order to secure good views of Tropical Screech-Owl. We left El Cairo in familiar conditions (rain!) and headed into the unknown. With the security situation in the south of the country being a little dicey, we were unable to visit Munchique National Park, and instead we had decided to step boldly where no group had stepped before, and head to a ProAves (a Colombian NGO) reserve called El Mirador. After a long journey, we met with our jeeps and at this stage we realized that what we had been told was “an easy two hour walk” may actually be a little more. And so it was! We set off and slogged up over 800m in altitude, through the rain and mud, to the reserve accommodation which was located at nearly 3,300m asl! It was one hell of a walk and far harder than we had been led to believe, but the important thing was that, with the help of a few horses, we had all made it! We settled into the smoky kitchen and began the process of warming up and drying off! Not surprisingly, the following day we were all a little jaded from the previous afternoon’s exertions, and it soon became apparent that the short stroll was once again going to be a little longer than we hoped! Still, looking on the bright side, the rain had stopped and the weather was generally looking much better! We set off, soon finding a large flock of Andean Siskins, a Sword-billed Hummingbird and an obliging Tawny Antpitta. Chestnut-naped Antpitta turned out to be a different kettle of fish, and although we heard several, only Carl managed to see one! Our walk took us through some superb stunted moss forest and here we found mixed flocks which included the splendid Black-headed Hemispingus, the colourful Blue-backed Conebill, Streaked Tuftedcheek and Slaty Brush-Finch. We eventually arrived at the lookout just as the fog began to drift in and out, and began a long parrot vigil. Scaly-naped Amazon, and both White-capped and Bronze-winged Parrots all put in appearances, and we were eventually rewarded with good views of the ultra-rare, critically endangered, Fuertes’s (or Indigo-winged) Parrot. We were also pleased to see the spectacular Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan from the same vantage point. On the walk back we noted Brown-backed and Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrants, a flock of the seldom-seen Pale-footed Swallow and Golden-plumed Parakeets, and we also heard two or three Tawny-breasted Tinamous. The walk down was predictably easier than the walk up! We noted a few good birds as we went including the excellent Black-billed Mountain-Toucan, the splendid Black-collared Jay and gorgeous Rufous-crowned Tody-Tyrants and we also found a mixed flock that contained Northern Mountain Grackles and a Striped Treehunter amongst others. After a long wait for our bags, which came down


on horses, we commenced the longish drive to La Suiza, and just as things started to fall back into place, we hit the next hurdle – this time a landslide! After a bit of searching around, we found some vehicles on the other side and hastily transferred the bags across for the journey up to La Suiza where, they had decided we would not be coming because of the broken road! A hastily arranged picnic dinner followed before we settled in for the night! The trails and road around La Suiza proved productive the following morning. Early morning we were primarily after skulkers, and were successful as we all got great looks at Chestnut-breasted Wren and Chestnut Wood-Quail, and we also bumped into a few more widespread species such as Highland Motmots and Strong-billed Woodcreeper. After breakfast we walked the road and were rewarded with great views of Torrent Ducks on the adjacent river and Cauca Guans, Red-ruffed Fruitcrows, Rufous-breasted Flycatchers and Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet in the forest. We then packed up and drove the short way north to Rio Blanco. The montane forest at Rio Blanco has a long list of goodies associated with it and it was these that were to be our focus for the following day. Sadly, amongst them, are several difficult and skulking species, so the day was not entirely rosy! We spent much time peering into the undergrowth where we did manage good views of Brown-banded, Chestnut-crowned and Bicoloured Antpittas (though sadly none were obliging enough to show to everyone!) and both Blackish and Spillmann’s Tapaculos showed well. Ocellated Tapaculo came in close, but only showed briefly and Chestnut-naped and Slate-crowned Antpittas remained as voices in the undergrowth. While we were seeking the skulkers, we came across a few mixed flocks which included goodies such as the superb Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, the chunky Tyrannine Woodcreeper, Long-tailed Antbird, Smoky Bush-Tyrant and Grass-green Tanager. We also enjoyed some good time watching the hummingbird feeders where the hordes of visitors included dozens of Buff-tailed Coronets, splendid Collared Incas and Long-tailed Sylphs and some delightful, bee-like, White-bellied Woodstars. Stars of the day however, were some amazing White-capped Tanagers that kept us amused for more than an hour! At dusk, a Rufous-bellied Nighthawk drifted over and as the night wore on, we had fantastic spotlight views of a fine Rufous-banded Owl. We set off early the following morning for the long drive to Jardin, which ended up being a tediously long journey, thanks in part to the fact that the direct route was closed! We eventually arrived at our pleasant resort hotel and having checked-in, set of in search of the rare Yellow-eared Parrot. Our quest took us to a rather unimpressive and largely deforested hillside where, we did see a flock of these macaw-like parrots in flight, but the views were far from satisfactory. Much of the day was spent hanging around waiting and hoping, and although we saw a few interesting species including Flame-rumped Tanager, Black-and-white Seedeater and an obliging Blackish Rail, we were a little dejected by the time we arrived back at the hotel. The following morning there was no real choice but to go back and try again. The mist swirled around and White-collared Swifts buzzed overhead, but as the time passed by, our hopes began to fade. Then came the distant sound of parrots, followed by silhouettes of distant parrots that were way below in the valley, but heading our way. Gradually the shapes gained colour as they approached us and we were finally rewarded with the most amazing close range views of nearly one hundred Yellow-eared Parrots flying right past us! And as if that was not enough, we then watched them feeding on fruit at close range, until thick fog effectively ended the show! We then retraced our steps back to Rio Blanco in the hope of catching up with a few additional species there. However, persistent rain thwarted us and although the hummers amused us, distant Rusty-faced Parrots in the fog were not what we had been hoping for. An early start the following morning was once again hampered by the damaged belts on the bus, but we put the extra time at Rio Blanco to good use, adding White-throated Screech-Owl at dawn. A forced stop on the way up to Nevado del Ruiz enabled us to add Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager, and once up at the highest altitudes, we began to add paramo specialities. Rather quickly we added Paramo Tapaculo, both Paramo and Plain-coloured Seedeaters, Andean Teal, the handsome Many-


striped Canastero, White-chinned Thistletail, Andean Tit-Spinetail and Stout-billed Cinclodes. Sadly the rain had also caught us up, and although light, its persistence became irritating. Further searching produced Golden-breasted Puffleg, many Shining Sunbeams, Pale-naped Brush-Finch, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch and, for some, the endemic Rufous-fronted Parakeet and the smart Golden-crowned Tanager. As the clocks moved on and the weather closed-in once again, we finally threw the towel in, and headed on to our next destination, Dorodal. We spent a productive day exploring the Rio Claro area, and quickly located most of our targets. Bird of the day for most of us was the spectacular endemic White-mantled Barbet, though the superb Sooty Ant-Tanager ran it close. Antioquia Bristle-Tyrant was another welcome endemic and the supporting cast included a perched pair of Double-toothed Kites, colourful Chestnut-mandibled Toucans, a very tame Cinnamon Woodpecker, Barred Puffbird, Pacific Antwren, Black-tailed Flycatcher, One-coloured Becard, magnificent Black-chested Jays, musical Black-bellied and Bay Wrens, colourful Orange-crowned Orioles, Bay-breasted Warbler, a smart Scarlet-browed Tanager (as well as Golden-hooded, Grey-headed, Dusky-faced and Tawny-crested Tanagers), Fulvous-vented Euphonia and a fantastic male Western Striped Manakin. After a fine lunch, we visited an excellent Oilbird cave, where, once we had deterred the local dog (by foul means and fair!), we had an excellent experience with these bizarre creatures. Nearby we saw American Swallow-tailed Kite, King Vulture and a fine Laughing Falcon and watched the Giant Cowbirds investigating the oropendola and cacique nests. Back nearer to the hotel we investigated a patch of forest on the former land of Paulo Escobar where we found a few more goodies including another obliging Barred Puffbird, a Red-lored Amazon, a Striped Cuckoo and Yellow-hooded Blackbirds. We explored the same areas the following morning and managed to add a few more to our tally. Near to the hotel we found Colombian Chachalacas, Southern White-fringed Antwren, Panama Flycatcher, Cinnamon Becard, Plain-coloured Tanager and a fine male White-eared Conebill, whilst back near to the Oilbird caves we found a super Capped Heron, both Broad-billed and Rufous Motmots, an unobtrusive pair of White-whiskered Puffbirds, Wing-barred Piprites, a delightful pair of minute Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrants, an obliging Brownish Twistwing and the strange Southern Bentbill. It was then time to hit the road once more, and once again, it was a longish journey, this time to Amalfi, at the northern end of the Central Andes. Our targets in the scrappy forest above Amalfi were three recently described species: Parker’s Antbird, Stiles’s Tapaculo and Chestnut-capped Piha. The first two proved easy to see well, but the piha took a concerted effort. As usual, persistence paid off, and we all achieved good views. Whilst searching we found several other interesting species including some Sooty-headed Wrens that finally surrendered, allowing great views, Ornate Flycatchers, smart male Pale-eyed Thrushes, a male Golden-winged Warbler and Guira and Black-faced Tanagers. Sadly there was no sign of the hoped-for Red-bellied Grackle, and as a result, the planned lie-in for the following day was inevitably cancelled! We knew our bus would not make it up a steep hill in Medellin to where we hoped to see another endemic, but had hoped the taxis we had hired for the purpose would! The debacle that followed could have come straight from a John Cleese film, as we attempted to push one of the taxis up the hill as a bus drove past us!! Anyhow, we arrived and the Red-bellied Grackles performed, so all was rosy! After one last long uphill journey in the bus (most notable for the overtaking cyclist!) we arrived at Medellin airport, ready for the final leg of the tour, and took a flight to Santa Marta on the Caribbean coast. It was hot and sticky and we decided to spend our first afternoon at Minca, in the lower reaches of the Santa Marta Mountains, and here we found a good number of new and interesting species. Pride of place, perhaps, went to the immaculate male Rosy Thrush-Tanager, but other goodies included Rufous-breasted and Rufous-and-white Wrens (the latter complete with its curious song!), Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant, Black-headed Tanager, the splendid Golden-winged Sparrow and a couple of new hummers in the shape of Coppery and Red-billed Emeralds.


The following morning we hit upon our last logistical setback when our jeep ground to a halt. A replacement was found and we continued on, only to find that a group of local protesters had blocked the road! The cause was apparently that a local lad had been wrongly accused of involvement with guerrillas, and no traffic was allowed through. We ate our breakfast and found a Glaucous Tanager, but it soon became apparent that the protesters were not about to give up, as more trucks were parked across the road. It was time for us to leave, and we headed back to the hotel a little dejected! Pearl Kite, Zone-tailed and Savanna Hawks, Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Russet-throated and White-necked Puffbirds, a Prothonotary Warbler and a male Dickcissel all made appearances around the hotel, and we took a well earned rest. In the afternoon we visited the nearby Tayrona Forest where we found Western Slaty Antshrikes, an obliging White-bellied Antbird, a very confiding Pale-bellied Hermit and some colourful Lance-tailed Manakins. Mammals were also in evidence with Central American Agouti, Venezuelan Red Howler Monkey and the delightful little Cotton-top Tamarin all showing well. We then spent two days in the hot bed of endemism, the Santa Marta Mountains. To reach San Lorenzo, one has to travel along a rough and rocky road, but we broke up the journey with frequent stops. At lowest elevations, a fine Black-backed Antshrike, Golden-fronted Greenlets and Golden-winged Sparrows obliged. As we moved up, a very showy Santa Marta Tapaculo and an amazing pair of Rusty-breasted Antpittas entertained, and before we reached our comfortable base, we piled on a few more endemics and specialities such as Yellow-billed Toucanet, Santa Marta Brush-Finch and White-lored Warbler. At the highest altitudes we found the secretive Black-fronted Wood-Quail, Rusty-headed and Streak-capped Spinetails, the elusive Santa Marta Antpitta, confiding Santa Marta Bush-Tyrants, Brown-rumped Tapaculo, the excellent Yellow-crowned Whitestart and Santa Marta Warbler, Santa Marta Mountain-Tanager and, for a lucky few, White-tailed Starfrontlet. Colour was added by numerous White-tipped Quetzals and Golden-breasted Fruiteaters, a White-rumped Hawk drifted overhead, and we also had fabulous spotlight views of a Band-winged Nightjar. As we made our way back down, a fortuitous stop produced Black-hooded Thrush and our final Santa Marta endemic, the Santa Marta Toucanet, and we eventually arrived back at the Caribbean Coast for a fine dinner and a few drinks! The last day was essentially a travel day, but we spent the morning on Isla Salamanca. Our main target bird, the Chestnut-winged Chachalaca duly obliged, and at the same spot we found some very obliging Crested Bobwhites. Birds were otherwise thin on the ground in the arid scrub, though Russet-throated Puffbirds were conspicuous, and we moved along the coast, checking for wetland species as we went. A good assortment of herons, ducks, waders and terns were found and we also noted Common Black-Hawk and Peregrine. A final stop for Bicoloured Conebill was successful and also produced a good number of stunning Prothonotary Warblers and a final treat in the shape of an interesting hummingbird which appears to be the critically endangered Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird! After a quick wash and brush up in Barranquilla, we all flew back to Bogota to board our international flights. Our first trip to Colombia in seven years was complete and had, on the whole, been a great success. Yes, the logistics had proved challenging (I’m sure they’ll get easier!), but the birding was fantastic and the country itself was one of the cleanest, friendliest and most modern that I have travelled through in South America. At no point did we feel anything but safe and welcome and I for one cannot wait to return to the most bird-rich country on earth!


SYSTEMATIC LIST Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). Conservation threat categories and information are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International’s magnificent book on the sad status of the rarest 10% of the world’s avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/index.html TINAMIDAE Tawny-breasted Tinamou Nothocercus julius (H): Some of us heard two or three individuals on our

walk back from the parrots at El Mirador, but they showed no interest in us! Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui (H): One heard by Carl and some of the group off in the distance at

Bosque Yotoco. PODICIPEDIDAE Least Grebe Podiceps dominicus: Our first was on Laguna Pedro Palo on the first day and we went

on to see others around Hacienda Napoles (Dorodal) and on Isla Salamanca. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps: Just seen on three dates, the first sighting being at Laguna

Pedro Palo on the first day. PELECANIDAE Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis: Very common along the Caribbean coast at the end of the

tour. PHALACROCORACIDAE Olivaceous Cormorant (Neotropic C) Phalacrocorax brasilianus: First seen at Laguna de Sonso and

also seen in the Dorodal area and along the Caribbean Coast. ANHINGIDAE Anhinga (Darter) Anhinga anhinga: A couple over at Laguna de Sonso were our only ones. FREGATIDAE Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens: Small numbers of these kleptoparasites were seen along

the Caribbean coast. ARDEIDAE Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias: A total of five along the Caribbean coast including three on Isla

Salamanca on the last day. Cocoi Heron (White-necked H) Ardea cocoi: About ten at Laguna de Sonso, a single at Dorodal and

a few on Isla Salamanca on the last day. Great Egret Casmerodius albus: We saw small numbers at several wetland sites, with hundreds on

Isla Salamanca. Now usually placed in the genus Ardea. Snowy Egret Egretta thula: First seen at Laguna de Sonso, we saw small numbers at several sites and

then hundreds on Isla Salamanca. ‘Thula’ is an Araucano (Chilean) Indian name for the Black-necked Swan, erroneously given to the Snowy Egret!.

Little Blue Heron Florida caerulea: Jonathan saw one from the bus and it was not until the Caribbean coast that we all caught up with this widespread heron.

Reddish Egret Dichromanassa rufescens: At least three of these attractive herons were seen on Isla Salamanca.

Tricoloured Heron Hydranassa tricolor: At least 20 on a pool that was covered in herons and egrets on Isla Salamanca. Also called the Louisiana Heron.


Green Heron Butorides virescens: One seen by some of the group on our first day in the Caribbean. It is a regular non-breeding visitor here.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus: Small numbers seen at several wetland areas. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis: Common and widespread. It remains to be seen whether the

splitting of Eastern Cattle Egret B. coromandus, recently adopted in Rasmussen, P. C. & J. C. Anderton (2005): Birds of South Asia. The Ripley Guide, will be accepted more widely. They are very different, so I see no reason why it should not!

Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus: We had nice looks at a single of this attractive heron at Rio Claro and another was seen by some on the journey later that day.

Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax: Two brief ones for some at Laguna Pedro Palo and good numbers the following morning at Laguna de Fúquene.

Yellow-crowned Night-Heron Nyctanassa violacea: At least a dozen around the mangrove fringes on Isla Salamanca.

Least Bittern Ixobrychus exilis: Most of us got some great views of one that was cunningly found by Phil at Laguna de Fúquene. The subspecies here is the localized endemic bogotensis, which is declining due to habitat destruction.

THRESKIORNITHIDAE Whispering Ibis (Bare-faced I) Phimosus infuscatus: Quite a few encounters, including good numbers

at Laguna de Sonso. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus: About 20 seen at Laguna de Sonso were our only ones. ANHIMIDAE Horned Screamer Anhima cornuta: It was a great surprise to see one of these prehistoric-looking

creatures flapping along at Laguna de Sonso, and we got some pretty good looks at it on the deck as well.

ANATIDAE Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor: About 20 at Laguna de Sonso. Most of the waterbirds

here were seen in flight as much of the open water had been choked up by invasive vegetation.

Black-bellied Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis: Seven at Laguna de Sonso were our only ones.

Andean Teal Anas andinus: A pair were seen very well on a small pool along the Nevado del Ruiz road. Note that some recent literature splits this species further with birds in the Eastern Andes (not seen on this tour) being split off as Merida (Speckled) Teal A. alipetens.

Blue-winged Teal Anas discors: A few in wetlands around Bogotá and at Laguna de Sonso and good numbers were seen on Isla Salamanca.

Cinnamon Teal Anas cyanoptera: Two pairs at Laguna de Sonso, presumably of the resident race tropicus.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata (NL): Ian managed to pick out a female in the large flock of Blue-winged Teals on Isla Salamanca just before many of them flew out of view.

Torrent Duck Merganetta armata: We had great views of a total of at least five along the river at La Suiza. The subspecies here, colombiana, is very pale. This variable species (they get darker from north to south) may end up being treated as more than one species.

Andean Duck Oxyura ferruginea: At least seven seen in the Bogotá area and a pair on the small pool along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

CATHARTIDAE Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura: Widespread in small numbers, though more common further north.

After the opinions of a few 19th century taxonomists were long ignored, recent genetic studies have further suggested that New World vultures are modified storks and don’t belong with the raptors. An excellent example of convergent evolution.


Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus: Good views of one quartering low over a grassy hill at Rio Claro another seen from the bus that day and a couple on Isla Salamanca at the end of the tour.

Black Vulture Coragyps atratus: Numerous and widespread. How do they all find enough to eat? King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa: A single seen soaring overhead at Rio Claro and another seen by

some over Tayrona Forest on the Caribbean coast. Andean Condor Vultur gryphus: It was great to see a single bird soaring over the Santa Marta

Mountains. Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it occurs throughout the Andes, in Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Paraguay south to Argentina and Chile but seems to be in serious trouble. It is found principally over open grassland and alpine regions up to 5,000m, descending to lowland desert regions in Chile and Peru, and over southern-beech forests in Patagonia. It is threatened mostly in the north of its range, and is exceedingly rare in Venezuela and Colombia, where a re-introduction programme using captive-bred individuals is in operation. A similar project is underway in Argentina. Since 2000, declines have continued in Ecuador (c65 birds in five disjunct populations remain), and Peru and Bolivia. Populations in Venezuela (<30 individuals) and Colombia may be maintained by reintroduction and feeding, but in Colombia at least the population may still be declining. The status of remaining populations is difficult to determine because its mortality, breeding frequency and success are so poorly known. It is clearly adapted for exceptionally low mortality and reproductive output, and is therefore highly vulnerable to human persecution, which persists over most of its range owing to alleged attacks on livestock.

PANDIONIDAE Osprey Pandion haliaetus: A total of five noted at three locations. In spite of the cosmopolitan nature

of this species, no breeding in South America has yet been documented. ACCIPITRIDAE Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis: Our first sighting was of one that drifted over us while we

were waiting at the road block at Mingueo, and later that day we saw a pair, one of which perched briefly, at Tayrona Forest. We also got to hear their distinctive vocalizations here.

American Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus: One of the most elegant birds of the Neotropics, we were able to admire a couple of circling birds at Rio Claro.

Pearl Kite Gampsonyx swainsonii: A handsome little raptor (though the one at Playa Koralia was a scruffy example!), of which we saw just two, both of which were along the Caribbean coast.

White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus: Surprisingly few, with just a couple in coffee country above La Mesa, and another for some at Playa Koralia.

Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis: About 20 were seen at Laguna de Sonso and a couple more on Isla Salamanca.

Double-toothed Kite Harpagus bidentatus: A pair of these rather accipiter-like kites were watched in a tree at Rio Claro, giving excellent views.

Plain-breasted Hawk Accipiter ventralis: A couple of sightings at El Mirador and a couple more at Rio Blanco including a rather dark bird that seemed to be hunting around the hummingbird feeders.

Common Black-Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus: Good views of three different soaring birds on Isla Salamanca on the last morning.

Savanna Hawk Heterospizias meridionalis: Only three single noted: one on the journey to Amalfi, one at Amalfi and another at Playa Koralia.

Grey Hawk Buteo nitidus: Just one single seen at Playa Koralia The latest tendency is to re-lump Grey-lined (the form we saw) and Grey (the Central American form) Hawks. No one has really come up with any conclusive evidence justifying the suggested split.


Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris: Numerous and widespread in small numbers. White-rumped Hawk Buteo leucorrhous: Phil was lucky to see one at Rio Blanco during his

lunchtime birding and we saw another circling at San Lorenzo in the Santa Marta mountains.

Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus: A regularly encountered wintering raptor with 20 or so logged during the tour.

White-tailed Hawk Buteo albicaudatus: Seen on a couple of occasions, with the first views being while we attempted to track down the Yellow-eared Parrots.

Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus: This Turkey Vulture mimic was seen well near to our hotel at Playa Koralia and again along the San Lorenzo road in the Santa Marta mountains..

Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus (H): Its distinctive song was heard above the forest at Amalfi. FALCONIDAE Northern Caracara Caracara cheriway: Small numbers at several sites and most numerous on Isla

Salamanca where we saw about eight during the morning. Note that not only the genus name Polyborus has been antedated by Caracara, but also that the original Crested Caracara C. plancus has now been split into three species: this one (sometimes confusingly retaining the name Crested Caracara), Southern Crested Caracara (or Southern Caracara) C. plancus, and the extinct Guadalupe Caracara C. lutosus. A paper documenting the split was published in one of the 1999 Wilson Bulletin issues.

Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima: Another widespread open country raptor that was seen regularly in small numbers. ‘Chimachima’ is an onomatopoeic local Argentinian name for this species.

Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans: Great views on consecutive days at Rio Claro where on the second day the bird was seen to carry nesting material into a small copse. Another was seen by some at Playa Koralia.

American Kestrel Falco sparverius: Scattered sightings for much of the tour, many of which were from the bus during journeys.

Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis: A pair at Rio Claro were our only ones. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus: A single on Isla Salamanca was more than likely interested in the

nearby concentrations of ducks. Only found here as a winter resident, the bird seen must have been either the North American anatum or the somewhat larger Nearctic tundrius.

CRACIDAE Chestnut-winged Chachalaca Ortalis garrula: We easily found this one on our last morning at Isla

Salamanca where we saw at least six. The poor things looked pretty bedraggled in the early morning dew but soon dried out.

Colombian Chachalaca Ortalis columbiana: Our first encounter was at Bosque Yotoco where we had excellent views of four. We also saw them on the late Pablo Escobar’s former estate, Hacienda Napoles, and heard them in the Amalfi and Medellin areas.

Band-tailed Guan Penelope argyrotis: Two showed well above San Lorenzo in the Santa Marta mountains, their frosty-looking faces clearly visible.

Andean Guan Penelope montagnii: One was seen by some of the group at El Cairo, three showed well to most of us at El Mirador and it was heard there again on our second morning.

Cauca Guan Penelope perspicax: Thought extinct until a few years ago, we had great views of this superb endemic, firstly at Bosque Yotoco (a single) and then at La Suiza (about ten). Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 250 – 999 individuals and is decreasing. This species qualifies as Endangered. It has a very small known range in which severely fragmented habitat patches are declining. Its population is believed to be very small and divided into extremely small subpopulations which are inferred (as a result of ongoing habitat loss and hunting) to be declining.

Sickle-winged Guan Chamaepetes goudotii: Great views of at least three at El 18 near Cali with a few other brief encounters elsewhere. These birds belonging to the nominate race.


PHASIANIDAE Crested Bobwhite Colinus cristatus: Amazing views of some ridiculously tame birds on Isla

Salamanca. Black-fronted Wood-Quail Odontophorus atrifrons: We heard this species a couple of times at San

Lorenzo in the Santa Marta mountains and brought one group in with playback. They were exceptionally wary and only showed to some of us, leaving us excited but less than satisfied with the encounter! Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species qualifies as Vulnerable owing to its small range and population, both of which must be declining in response to habitat loss. The range is small and fragmented with recent records from only one area. The Colombian East Andes have been subject to four centuries of extensive degradation, with progressive deforestation of the lower montane slopes. In Boyacá and Santander, however, where forest loss was gradual until the 1960s and 1970s, some sizeable tracts remain, and habitat is beginning to regenerate owing to land abandonment. The Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta is threatened by agricultural expansion, logging and burning. On the west slopes, marijuana plantations expanded widely in the 1980s, and were sprayed by the government with herbicides in the early 1990s. The Sierra de Perijá is heavily deforested up to 2,000m, by cattle-ranching at lower elevations and narcotics cultivation higher up. It is also hunted at least in some parts of its range.

Chestnut Wood-Quail Odontophorus hyperythrus: After plenty of effort, we all achieved stunning views of this endemic at La Suiza, where between us we saw c15 and heard others! Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at fewer than 10,000. It occurs on both slopes of the West and Central Andes, of Colombia, south to Cauca and the head of the Magdalena valley in Huila. It is uncommon and local in montane evergreen forest, forest edge, secondary growth, and there is some evidence that it frequents coffee plantations with shade trees, at 1,600-2,700 m. The population is likely to be fewer than 10,000 in three subpopulations, each of which requires taxonomic validation. Its forest habitats have suffered widespread and severe deforestation over centuries of human colonisation, particularly in the Central Andes, with resultant fragmentation and isolation of populations. Further degradation owing to agricultural expansion is projected in the Central Andes, and the slopes of the Cauca and Magdalena valleys are now characterized by remnant (often secondary) forest patches, pasture, coffee, banana and sugarcane plantations. There is also evidence of hunting pressure.

Dark-backed Wood-Quail Odontophorus melanonotus (H): Hear at El Cairo but always a fair way off. Easier to see the hand-fed birds in Ecuador! Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 10,000 – 20,000 individuals and is thought to be decreasing. This species has a small and fragmented range, with recent records from few sites. Available habitat, and presumably the population, is declining. The species therefore qualifies as Vulnerable.

ARAMIDAE Limpkin Aramus guarauna: A couple seen by most of the group at Laguna de Sonso. RALLIDAE White-throated Crake Laterallus albigularis: Three seen very well and several others heard at Laguna

Pedro Palo on our first day. Also heard at Isla Salamanca at the end of the tour. Bogota Rail Rallus semiplumbeus: A handsome endemic, allowing for several great views at the

gravel pits near to Bogotá, where we saw at least six! Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. This species is listed as Endangered because its range is very small and is contracting owing to widespread habitat loss and degradation.


Blackish Rail Pardirallus nigricans: Heard at Laguna de Sonso, we went on to have great views of a bird that was enticed out at Jardin.

Purple Gallinule (American P G) Porphyrio martinicus: Small numbers seen at Laguna de Sonso, Hacienda Napoles and on Isla Salamanca.

Spot-flanked Gallinule Gallinula melanops: The isolated population around Bogotá (bogotensis) was surprisingly common and conspicuous at some of the marshes we visited.

Common Gallinule (Moorhen) Gallinula chloropus: This cosmopolitan species is likely to be split in the future. The vocalizations of New World birds are strikingly different to Old World forms.

American Coot Fulica americana: Also relatively numerous in the marshes around Bogotá where they are represented by the race columbiana.

JACANIDAE Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana: Two races were encountered: the more typical melanopygia in the

Cauca Valley (Laguna de Sonso) and the mostly uniform black hypomelaena in the Magdalena valley and on the Isla Salamanca (on the latter we saw chicks as well). Apparently the two forms occur sympatrically in some areas...

RECURVIROSTRIDAE Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus: Small numbers at Laguna de Sonso and on Isla

Salamanca. CHARADRIIDAE Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis: Fairly widespread in small numbers. Black-bellied Plover (Grey Plover) Pluvialis squatarola: Six wintering birds seen on Isla Salamanca on

our last morning. Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus: Two wintering birds seen on Isla Salamanca on our

last morning. Thick-billed Plover (Wilson’s P) Charadrius wilsonia: A single seen on Isla Salamanca on our last

morning. The bird we saw was almost certainly of the resident cinnamominus subspecies. SCOLOPACIDAE Solitary Sandpiper Tringa solitaria: Just four seen in total: a single for some in Bogotá, two at Laguna

de Sonso and a single on Isla Salamanca. Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes: A single at Laguna de Sonso and at least four on Isla Salamanca. Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca: A single at Laguna de Sonso and at least four on Isla

Salamanca. At both sites, direct comparisons of the two yellowlegs were possible. Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia: Surprisingly few, with three at Laguna de Sonso and a couple of

other singles elsewhere. Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatus: About six were seen on Isla Salamanca on our last morning.

The generic name literally means ‘the bird carrying the mirror’ (Gr. katoptron = mirror; -phoros = carrying), referring to the white wing patches.

Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla: Four feeding along the riverbank with the ‘tringas’ at Laguna de Sonso.

Stilt Sandpiper Micropalama himantopus: A single sneaking about among the dowitchers at Isla Salamanca on our last morning.

Hudsonian Whimbrel Numenius hudsonicus: A single seen at Isla Salamanca on our last morning. Common Dowitcher (Short-billed D) Limnodromus griseus: At least 50, assumed to all be this species

(those that we heard calling certainly were and the known distribution and habitat preferences of the two species make it very likely they were!) at Isla Salamanca on the last morning.

Wilson’s Snipe Gallinago delicata: At least three seen near to Bogotá while we were looking for the following species.


Noble Snipe Gallinago nobilis: At least two seen very well at the gravel pits near to Bogotá, including one which showed very well in the open. Colombia’s sprawling capital seems to be THE easiest place to see this northern Andean speciality.

LARIDAE Laughing Gull Larus atricilla: A first winter bird at Laguna de Sonso was unexpected and turned out

to be the only one of the tour. STERNIDAE Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica: A dozen or so pale-headed winter-plumaged birds were watched

hawking over the pools at Isla Salamanca. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia: Half a dozen or so seen over the same pools as the above species. Royal Tern Sterna maxima: A large roost of terns on Isla Salamanca included several hundred of

these. Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis: Small numbers (c10) seen amongst the Royal Terns on Isla

Salamanca. COLUMBIDAE Rock Dove (feral) Columba livia: An introduced species that was pleasingly uncommon relatively

speaking. Band-tailed Pigeon Columba fasciata: Fairly common and widespread with many good views of

perched birds. One of the most widespread New World birds, ranging from Alaska to Argentina. Here the Neotropical form albilinea, which has been regarded by some authors as a full species.

Scaled Pigeon Columba speciosa: Half a dozen seen in flight at lower elevations in the Santa Marta Mountains.

Bare-eyed Pigeon Columba corensis: Numerous in the dry scrub on Isla Salamanca where we saw about 20. The species is named after the Venezuelan town of Coro.

Pale-vented Pigeon Columba cayennensis: First seen at Laguna de Sonso and then small numbers of this widespread pigeon were seen elsewhere. The scientific name refers to Cayenne or French Guyana, an epithet that in early ornithology usually indicated a species of otherwise unknown provenance.

Plumbeous Pigeon Columba plumbea: A single showed well at Rio Claro where we were able to note the pale iris, and a couple were heard at Amalfi. The song of this species and the similar Ruddy Pigeon were the subject of a couple of interesting (?) discussions and helped to pass some of the time on the bus!

Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata: Two rather different-looking forms of this one were encountered, pentheria in the Eastern Andes (the ones we saw in the Bogotá area with underparts shaded cinnamon and outer tail feathers tipped rusty), and the white-tipped caucae in the Cauca valley.

Common Ground-Dove (Scaly G-D) Columbina passerina: Very small numbers were seen along the Caribbean coast.

Ruddy Ground-Dove Columbina talpacoti: Numerous and widespread in open country. Scaled Dove Scardafella squammata: A couple were seen around the hotel at Playa Koralia. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi: This often shy dove was incredibly tame and easy to see

around the hotel at Playa Koralia. Lined Quail-Dove Geotrygon linearis: This shy dove was seen and heard a few times in the Santa

Marta mountains, but mostly in flight. Jonathan was lucky enough to see one perched up. White-throated Quail-Dove Geotrygon frenata: An individual at El 18 showed pretty well to some of

us as it perched up calling.


PSITTACIDAE Military Macaw Ara militaris: Two groups totalling seven were seen in flight at Minca. Classified as

Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 10,000 – 19,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species is Vulnerable because levels of habitat loss and capture for the cage-bird trade indicate that there is a continuing rapid population decline. Its future ought to be secured by the large number of national parks in which it occurs, but many of these currently provide ineffective protection. As a tribute to Paul, I’ll repeat his joke: “The local form likely represents a separate species, the Paramilitary Macaw!”.

Chestnut-fronted Macaw Ara severa: A pair were seen in flight at Hacienda Napoles, Dorodal, on our morning visit there.

Scarlet-fronted Parakeet (Red-fronted P) Aratinga wagleri: Our first views were of a flock at El 18 that were scoped in the trees. We went on to see a few more flocks and they were quite numerous in the lower reaches of the Santa Marta Mountains. Here the nominate race. Species in this genus, as well as Leptosittaca and those in Pyrrhura, often go by the name ‘conure’.

Brown-throated Parakeet Aratinga pertinax: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo near to Bogotá where the population likely originates from birds of captive origin (released or escaped). They were first noted around eleven years ago, and appear to have increased since and seem to be establishing themselves. We also saw at least 30 on Isla Salamanca.

Golden-plumed Parakeet (G-p Parrot) Leptosittaca branickii: Our views at El Mirador (some in flight and then some perched birds for some of the group) ended up being our only encounter. A threatened species, seemingly partly dependent on wax palms (Ceroxylon) for nesting. Some people fear that eventually this species may follow the fate of the related Yellow-eared Parrot. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. Very high levels of forest clearance, fragmentation and degradation have presumably resulted in this species undergoing rapid population declines and consequently qualifying as Vulnerable. Total numbers are difficult to assess, but the population is (as a precaution) considered to be small.

Yellow-eared Parrot Ognorhynchus icterotis: Perhaps the highlight of the tour was seeing up to 100 of these superb birds feeding at close range at Jardin. Classified as Critically Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population was estimated at 144 individuals and decreasing, though recent evidence suggests the population around Jardin is c250. This species is Critically Endangered because the known range (especially the nesting area) is extremely small. Suitable habitat is severely fragmented throughout its historical range and continues to be lost and degraded. Conservation action is addressing some of the key issues but the future of this species remains extremely uncertain. It has suffered considerable habitat loss and fragmentation (90-93% of montane forest in Colombia) throughout its range. However, several sizeable areas of habitat remain within its historic range, suggesting additional causes of decline. Wax palm mortality is accelerating and they suffer poor recruitment because cattle browse young trees, and logging in adjacent areas increases their susceptibility to disease. Wax palms are incredibly long-lived and slow-growing (mature individuals are over 500 years old) and they are used in Palm Sunday Church services. In Ecuador, hunting for food was prolific, and trapping has had some impact in Colombia, although the species is notoriously hard to keep in captivity.

Rufous-fronted Parakeet Bolborhynchus ferrugineifrons: This very localized endemic was seen all too briefly (a single bird) along the Nevado del Ruiz road. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,000 – 4,000 individuals and is decreasing. This species has been down listed to Vulnerable because new information suggests that its range is larger than previously estimated. The species has a small population that is continuing to decline because of ongoing habitat degradation, with a high proportion of birds concentrated in one or two strongholds.


Green-rumped Parrotlet Forpus passerinus: Small numbers seen on the Caribbean coast the day we were stuck in the road block!

Spectacled Parrotlet Forpus conspicillatus: A near-endemic that showed especially well at Laguna de Sonso where birds were nesting in the building where we had lunch! Also seen in small numbers at a few other sites.

Orange-chinned Parakeet Brotogeris jugularis: Especially common at Rio Claro where we noted at least 50, with smaller numbers elsewhere

Rusty-faced Parrot Hapalopsittaca amazonina: We did not have much luck with this species, and although Jonathan had a reasonable fly by view at Rio Blanco, the rest of us only saw shapes in the fog! In fact, fog and parrots seemed to be a theme of the tour!! Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species has been down listed to Vulnerable because recent assessments suggest that its population, although still small, is larger than previously thought. However, the population consists of very small, scattered subpopulations that are inferred to be undergoing continuing declines, owing to widespread habitat loss.

Indigo-winged Parrot (Fuertes’s P) Hapalopsittaca fuertesi: I don’t suppose many of us have had to work much harder for a parrot, but this was our main reward for the hike up to El Mirador. After a lot of effort and patience, we were eventually rewarded with some scope views of this rare species. Classified as Critically Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 50 – 249 individuals and is decreasing. Clearance of forest in the region of the type-locality was already extensive in 1911, and very little habitat now remains. It may also have been displaced (or possibly genetically swamped) by H. amazonina since 1911. Although there are no immediate threats to remaining birds in Alto Quindío (around El Mirador), such a small population cannot be considered secure.

Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus: Good numbers were seen at close range at Laguna de Sonso and we went on to see small numbers in the Rio Claro region, and on the lower slopes of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, all of the race rubrigularis.

Red-billed Parrot Pionus sordidus: Only seen in the Santa Marta Mountains, where its represented by the endemic race saturatus. A species conspicuously absent from most of the remainder of the country.

White-capped Parrot Pionus seniloides: Good flight views of at least four individuals at El Mirador. Bronze-winged Parrot Pionus chalcopterus: It was surprising to see two at high altitude at El Mirador,

where one posed in the scope for a long period. Also seen at Rio Blanco and on the journey to Amalfi.

Red-lored Parrot (R-l Amazon) Amazona autumnalis: One flew in and landed at Hacienda Napoles, Dorodal, allowing some of us scope studies before it flew off again.

Orange-winged Parrot Amazona amazonica: A pair were seen in flight near to the hotel at Dorodal. Scaly-naped Parrot (S-n Amazon) Amazona mercenaria: Best views were of a perched bird at El

Mirador, and we saw a few more in flight at El Mirador and at Rio Blanco. Sometimes also called the Mercenary Parrot (as in the scientific name), due to the armoured appearance of the bird’s head and neck feathers.

Mealy Amazon (M Parrot) Amazona farinosa: A small group scoped up distantly at Hacienda Napoles, Dorodal.

CUCULIDAE Dwarf Cuckoo Coccyzus pumilus: Excellent views of a single bird at the lunch stop at Laguna de

Sonso and no fewer than four birds as we walked back out from the site. Dark-billed Cuckoo Coccyzus melacoryphus: One at the same site heard and seen by some of us. Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana: Regular encounters, with a total of eight noted during the tour. Greater Ani Crotophaga major: At least ten noted along the river at Laguna de Sonso and another

group along the river at Rio Claro.


Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani: Very common and widespread. Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia: Heard on a few occasions and seen very well by our hotel at

Dorodal. STRIGIDAE Tropical Screech-Owl Otus choliba: Only I needed to get dirty (and bitten) for this one as we

spotlighted a bird near to the hotel at El Cairo. White-throated Screech-Owl Otus albogularis: Some you win and some you lose! With the bus

breaking down on the morning we left Rio Blanco, we were able to get superb spotlight views of this much-wanted species.

Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl Glaucidium brasilianum (H): A single heard pre-dawn by our hotel at Taganga on the Caribbean coast.

Rufous-banded Owl Ciccaba albitarsus: Stunning spotlight views on two separate occasions at Rio Blanco.

STEATORNITHIDAE Oilbird Steatornis caripensis: Our excursion into the ‘gruta’ near Rio Claro was great fun once we

had ditched the dog that had followed us in! NYCTIBIIDAE Common Potoo (Grey P) Nyctibius griseus: Good views of a roosting bird at Laguna de Sonso. CAPRIMULGIDAE Rufous-bellied Nighthawk Lurocalis rufiventris: One was seen flying over just before dusk at Rio

Blanco. Common Nighthawk Chordeiles minor: We enjoyed some marvellous views of several roosting birds

in the trees at Laguna de Sonso. Pauraque (Common P) Nyctidromus albicollis: A few seen, though many were seen flying off the road

early in the morning. Band-winged Nightjar Caprimulgus longirostris: Seen by Carl in the half light on the way up to El

Mirador and then fantastic spotlight views, for those that wanted, of a male at San Lorenzo.

Lyre-tailed Nightjar Uropsalis lyra: A female picking up mud or grit from the ground pre-dawn at Rio Blanco was thought to be this species due to the relatively uniform plumage and conspicuous collar.

APODIDAE White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris: Greatest numbers and best views were around Jardin,

particularly the birds swooping low overhead while we were waiting for the parrots. Chestnut-collared Swift Cypseloides rutilus: Small numbers noted at a few locations. Grey-rumped Swift Chaetura cinereiventris: Four noted at Rio Claro and a couple of probables at

Amalfi. Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura: Up to 12 of these distinctive swifts were noted each day in

the Rio Claro area. White-tipped Swift Aeronautes montivagus: A single seen at Laguna Pedro Palo on our first morning.

Hilty treats this species as hypothetical in the Colombia field guide as there are no specimens, even though there are numerous sight records.

TROCHILIDAE Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsuta: At least six seen in the Rio Claro area, some of which

showed well and a single noted at Playa Koralia. Also sometimes called the Hairy Hermit, a rather silly name.

Green Hermit Phaethornis guy (NL): A single noted by some near the hummingbird feeders at El 18.


Tawny-bellied Hermit Phaethornis syrmatophorus: Easier to hear than see, the lekking birds that we heard seemed incredibly good at staying out of view. We did end up seeing a few in the El Cairo area.

Long-billed Hermit Phaethornis longirostris: Singles seen at Rio Claro and Playa Koralia. This form ranges from Central America into northern Venezuela.

Pale-bellied Hermit Phaethornis anthophilus: A single showed very well at Tayrona Forest on the Caribbean coast, perching in the open for extended periods!

Green-fronted Lancebill Doryfera ludovicae: Seen relatively briefly on a couple of occasions by some of the group: the first was at Rio Claro and the second at Amalfi.

White-necked Jacobin Florisuga mellivora: Very numerous at the hummingbird feeders near to El 18 but not seen elsewhere.

Brown Violetear Colibri delphinae: Also fairly common at the hummingbird feeders near to El 18 but not seen elsewhere.

Green Violetear Colibri thalassinus: First seen at El Mirador, but easiest to watch at the feeders at Rio Blanco. ‘Thalassinus’ is Latin for ‘sea green’.

Sparkling Violetear Colibri coruscans: Relatively scarce with just a few sightings. Noted at Laguna de Fúquene, at the feeders at Rio Blanco and in the Santa Marta mountains.

Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis: Small numbers seen with the best views at the hummingbird feeders near to El 18.

Western Emerald (West Andean E) Chlorostilbon melanorhynchus: The bright male emerald at Jardin must have been this species. A recent split from Blue-tailed Emerald C. mellisugus, found in Colombia’s Western Andes, and on the west slope of the ‘unified’ Andes into Ecuador. Note though that Schuchmann (in HBW 5) re-lumps this one, the following species, and several others back into Blue-tailed.

Red-billed Emerald Chlorostilbon gibsoni: A few were noted in the lower reaches of the Santa Marta mountains around Minca. They were identified on range as it seemed just about impossible to detect red on their bills!

Coppery Emerald Chlorostilbon russatus: A couple were attracted to my pygmy-owl whistles in the lower reaches of the Santa Marta mountains around Minca.

Short-tailed Emerald Chlorostilbon poortmanni: A single male was studied at length in the coffee country above La Mesa near to Bogotá. The tiny bird was trap-lining in a hedge and had us perplexed for a while but the plumage and very short tail (primaries noted as considerably longer than the tail) gave the game away in the end.

Violet-crowned Woodnymph (Blue-c W) Thalurania colombica: At least four noted around Laguna Pedro Palo on our first morning and two or three seen in the Santa Marta mountains at the end including a stunning male that fed on flowers at extremely close range.

Green-crowned Woodnymph Thalurania fannyi: A stunning male was watched at the feeders near to El 18.

Sapphire-bellied Hummingbird Lepidopyga lilliae: Virtually the last bird of the tour and perhaps the greatest surprise! We enjoyed fantastic views of a male on Isla Salamanca. The glittering turquoise-blue on the belly is diagnostic of this species. Classified as Critically Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 50 – 249 individuals and is decreasing. The very small range and rarity of this species suggest that its population is extremely small and that the population size at each of the known localities is tiny. Its habitat, and by inference the population, have undergone a considerable decline that may be continuing. This combination of factors leads to classification as Critically Endangered.

White-chinned Sapphire Hylocharis cyanus: A single that showed well in Tayrona Forest was a write-in for the tour.

Blue-headed Sapphire Hylocharis grayi: Another stunner at the feeders at El 18, we were delighted to see a fabulous male that returned to the same feeder several times.

Blue-chested Hummingbird Amazilia amabilis: A few seen in the Rio Claro/Dorodal area including several birds feeding in a flowering tree.


Andean Emerald Amazilia franciae: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo, this was one of the more widespread species. We saw at least 40 at the feeders near to El 18!

Steely-vented Hummingbird Amazilia saucerrottei: Also first seen at Laguna Pedro Palo and most numerous at the hummer feeders at El 18.

Rufous-tailed Hummingbird Amazilia tzacatl: This common and widespread species was regularly encountered in small numbers.

White-vented Plumeleteer Chalybura buffonii: We only encountered small numbers of this relatively uninteresting hummingbird which we first encountered in the coffee country above La Mesa.

Speckled Hummingbird Adelomyia melanogenys: Fairly common and widespread. Especially notable were the birds in the western Andes west of Cali which were of the race cervina which is much richer buff below than other races.

Fawn-breasted Brilliant Heliodoxa rubinoides: Most easily seen at the feeders at El 18 and Rio Blanco. Here the race aequatorialis.

Empress Brilliant Heliodoxa imperatrix: A female was seen very well near to El Cairo. One of the many Chocó specialities that we saw in this excellent, if somewhat wet, area.

White-tailed Hillstar Urochroa bougueri: We noted a few in the El Cairo area. These were birds of the nominate race, which shows a prominent rufous malar. Those found on the east slope in Ecuador belong to the race leucura. Two species may be involved.

Shining Sunbeam Aglaeactis cupripennis: This humming bird is numerous at the highest elevations and we saw a couple at El Mirador and good numbers along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Mountain Velvetbreast Lafresnaya lafresnayi: One seen by Carl at Rio Blanco, the rest of us had to wait until the Santa Marta mountains before catching up with this one.

Bronzy Inca Coeligena coeligena: Several encounters, including good views at the feeders at El 18 and Rio Blanco.

Brown Inca Coeligena wilsoni: Good views of this Chocó speciality in the El Cairo area. Collared Inca Coeligena torquata: A characteristic cloud forest hummer, encountered many times,

and particularly conspicuous at the feeders at Rio Blanco. White-tailed Starfrontlet Coeligena phalerata (NL): A female of this Santa Marta endemic was seen

briefly by Jonathan above San Lorenzo. Buff-winged Starfrontlet Coeligena lutetiae: We were treated to some very good views of singing

birds in the cloudforest at El Mirador. Sword-billed Hummingbird Ensifera ensifera: Sadly our only view of this stunner was a bird in flight

(still pretty obvious!) at El Mirador. Buff-tailed Coronet Boissonneaua flavescens: Very common and conspicuous around the feeders at

Rio Blanco. Velvet-purple Coronet Boissonneaua jardini: Stunning views of several males in the El Cairo area – a

delightful Chocó endemic. Tourmaline Sunangel Heliangelus exortis: Numerous at El Mirador and very common on the feeders

at Rio Blanco. Colombia is definitely the country to see this one. Coppery-bellied Puffleg Eriocnemis cupreoventris: At least two showed very well at Cerro La

Guadalupe above Bogotá. Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it occurs from the Mérida mountains, north-west Venezuela, south along both slopes of the East Andes to Cundinamarca, north-east Colombia. It is apparently uncommon in montane and elfin forest borders, páramo vegetation with scattered low shrubs and, in Cundinamarca, secondary scrub (nesting in dense vegetation), at 1,950-3,000m. Its habitats in the Colombian East Andes have been extensively degraded, with forest in its lower elevational range, on the western slope, largely cleared for intensive crop cultivation and pasture. Deforestation is locally severe in Mérida and Táchira, Venezuela, primarily owing to agricultural colonization, with many areas of páramo and forest already cleared for commercial and subsistence cultivation.

Golden-breasted Puffleg Eriocnemis mosquera: Carl and Noel saw one at El Mirador and then we all enjoyed superb views of this high-elevation speciality along the Nevado del Ruiz road.


Greenish Puffleg Haplophaedia aureliae: First seen at El 18, this rather drab and unimpressive puffleg was also seen around El Cairo and Amalfi.

Booted Racket-tail Ocreatus underwoodii: We enjoyed a few encounters with this widespread but attractive species. First noted at Laguna Pedro Palo.

Viridian Metaltail Metallura williami: Common in the higher areas along the Nevado del Ruiz road where they seemed to be almost the only hummers we could find!.

Tyrian Metaltail Metallura tyrianthina: We saw both the reddish-tailed nominate race in all three Andean chains, and the very distinct and blue-tailed districta, endemic to the Santa Marta and Perijá mountains.

Long-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus kingi: Our best views of this delicate and widespread species were on the feeders at Rio Blanco. The subspecies here, emmae, is characterized by the lack of a throat patch and a shimmering green uppertail. It has sometimes been considered a separate species, usually incorporating caudatus or mocoa, or both, as races.

Violet-tailed Sylph Aglaiocercus coelestis: We enjoyed some fantastic views of both males and females of this superb Chocó endemic in the El Cairo area.

Wedge-billed Hummingbird Schistes geoffroyi: A couple showed well but briefly near to El Cairo. Purple-crowned Fairy Heliothryx barroti: One was watched flycatching high in a tree at Rio Claro. Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris: A single was seen at the hummingbird feeders near to

El 18 but none were seen elsewhere. Purple-throated Woodstar Philodice mitchellii: This stunning little gem was seen brilliantly at the

feeders near to El 18. White-bellied Woodstar Acestrura mulsant: Seen brilliantly at Rio Blanco, both in the forest, and at

rather closer range, on the feeders! Gorgeted Woodstar Acestrura heliodor: A female at Laguna Pedro Palo, west of Bogotá, was rather

brief and not seen well by all! TROGONIDAE White-tipped Quetzal Pharomachrus fulgidus: Superb views of several birds in the San Lorenzo area.

One of the species shared between the Santa Marta Mountains and Venezuela’s coastal cordilleras.

Golden-headed Quetzal Pharomachrus auriceps: Brilliant views of stunning males at El Cairo and again at Amalfi.

Western White-tailed Trogon Trogon chionurus: Excellent views of several in the Rio Claro area. Formerly lumped in Amazonian White-tailed Trogon T. viridis, Western White-tailed Trogon ranges from Panama into western Ecuador.

Collared Trogon Trogon collaris: Best views were of the male at Bosque Yotoco. This and the following species can be difficult to separate if not seen well.

Masked Trogon Trogon personatus: Usually found at higher altitudes than the previous species, we first found a male in the El Cairo area and saw a few others at various montane sites.

Northern Violaceous Trogon Trogon caligatus: A pair at Minca at the base of the Santa Marta mountains were somewhat unexpected.

ALCEDINIDAE Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata: Small numbers at various wetlands. Note that these species are

now often treated as part of a separate family, the Cerylidae. Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona: A single seen well on the pond at Hacienda Napoles. Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana: Also seen on the pond at Hacienda Napoles and a couple

on Isla Salamanca. Pygmy Kingfisher (NL) (American P K) Chloroceryle aenea: Seen and heard along the river at Rio

Claro by Steve and Noel. MOMOTIDAE Rufous Motmot Baryphthengus martii: Good views of a couple along the trail to the Oilbird cave.


Broad-billed Motmot Electron platyrhynchum: Good views of this one, also along the trail to the Oilbird cave. Similar in appearance to the previous species though smaller, duller and with a blue chin. The vocalizations of the two are very different.

Blue-crowned Motmot Momotus momota Highland Motmot Momotus aequatorialis: Common and conspicuous in the El Cairo area and at La

Suiza. GALBULIDAE Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda: Heard a few times and seen very well along the Caribbean

coast where it is represented by the subspecies pallens. BUCCONIDAE White-necked Puffbird Notharchus macrorhynchus: A pair were seen around our hotel at Playa

Koralia on the Caribbean coast. The subspecies here is hyperrynchus. Barred Puffbird Nystalus radiatus: Our first was a single which showed pretty well in the scope at Rio

Claro and then we saw another even better at Hacienda Napoles in the afternoon. Russet-throated Puffbird Hypnelus ruficollis: A real stunner that we found at a couple of sites on the

Caribbean coast. Now that this species and Two-banded Puffbird H. bicinctus are treated as separate species, this species has a very small range in northeastern Colombia and northwestern Venezuela.

White-whiskered Puffbird Malacoptila panamensis: Great views of a pair of these very inconspicuous birds along the trail to the Oilbird caves at Rio Claro.

CAPITONIDAE White-mantled Barbet Capito hypoleucus: Brilliant views of a displaying pair at Rio Claro and one of

the birds of the trip. A so-called Nechí endemic, confined to the humid forests of the middle Magdalena Valley. The Nechí is actually a tributary of the Cauca river, its drainage being on the east side of the top end of the Central Andes but west of the Serranía de San Lucas. Its drainage is often considered part of the ‘Magdalena Valley’, though technically it really isn’t. Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species has a very small and severely fragmented range. Habitat loss is occurring rapidly in some parts of its range, and the population is likely to be declining. As a result of this combination of factors, the species qualifies as Endangered.

RAMPHASTIDAE Yellow-billed Toucanet Aulacorhynchus calorhynchus: Great looks at this banana-billed species

along the road to San Lorenzo. Andean Toucanet Aulacorhynchus albivitta: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo on the first day with

further sightings around El Cairo and Rio Blanco. Santa Marta Toucanet Aulacorhynchus lautus: Just as we thought we’d missed this one we came

across three on our way down from San Lorenzo. Another of the new species created in the splitting-up of Emerald Toucanet.

Crimson-rumped Toucanet Aulacorhynchus haematopygus: Seen very well in the El 18 area west of Cali, and another pair were seen at Amalfi.

Collared Aracari Pteroglossus torquatus: Nice views of a few in the Rio Claro area. Grey-breasted Mountain-Toucan Andigena hypoglauca: Great views of a pair at El Mirador which

kept us entertained while we were waiting for the Indigo-winged Parrots. This species generally replaces the next species at higher elevations. Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it occurs primarily on the east slope of the Andes, from Nariño, south Colombia, through Ecuador south to Cuzco, south-east Peru. On the west slope of the Andes it occurs from Caldas south to Cauca, Colombia, and Azuay and Loja, south-west Ecuador. It occurs in montane evergreen forest, forest edge and stunted forest near


the tree-line at 2,400-3,350m, occasionally to 2,000m, though in Colombia it is usually found above 3,000m. Its habitat in Colombia has been subject to widespread and severe deforestation over a prolonged period as a result of agricultural expansion, whereas the east Andes of Ecuador and north Peru are under intense pressure from conversion for agriculture and cattle pasture, mining operations and logging. In Peru, there is an alarmingly high rate of deforestation in the north Cordillera de Colán for the cultivation of cash crops, and widespread forest loss on montane slopes in the Marañón drainage. Montane forests in south-east Peru are perhaps the most intact within its range, but even these have been locally affected by domestic grazing animals, burning, cutting for fuel and clearance for cultivation.

Black-billed Mountain-Toucan Andigena nigrirostris: Great looks at a pair or two on the way down from El Mirador, and another pair showed extremely well at Rio Blanco.

Chestnut-mandibled Toucan Ramphastos swainsonii: Several were seen in the Rio Claro area, the brown bill being visible on at least some of them. Note that the Black-mandibled Toucan should occur fairly nearby and it may be that this is roughly the area the two forms meet.

PICIDAE Olivaceous Piculet Picumnus olivaceus: A single seen fairly briefly at Rio Claro was the only one of

the tour. Spot-breasted Woodpecker Chrysoptilus punctigula: A single showed well on our walk in to Laguna

de Sonso. Crimson-mantled Woodpecker Piculus rivolii: A couple of these beauties showed well in a mixed

flock at Rio Blanco. Golden-olive Woodpecker Piculus rubiginosus: A widespread but quite variable species. We saw a

single at El 18 in the Western Andes (pacificus ), a single at Amalfi in the Central Andes (gularis) and three in the Santa Marta Mountains (alleni). All these subspecies are endemic.

Cinnamon Woodpecker Celeus loricatus: Brilliant views of one feeding on termites at close range at Rio Blanco.

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus: A total of six of this large and widespread species were noted.

Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus: Jonathan saw a couple on the journey to El Mirador and then we all caught up with them at Amalfi. This species is strictly tied to the geographical distribution of Quercus oaks. The latter don’t range any further into South-America, and consequently the woodpecker doesn’t either. Colombian birds belong to the endemic race flavigula, in which males have the red confined to the hindcrown (as in females of other races), whereas the female lacks the red altogether.

Red-crowned Woodpecker Melanerpes rubricapillus: A couple at Laguna Pedro Palo and common around Rio Claro/Dorodal and in the Caribbean.

Smoky-brown Woodpecker Veniliornis fumigatus: A couple seen well at Laguna Pedro Palo on the first day and another single seen at Bosque Yotoco.

Red-rumped Woodpecker Veniliornis kirkii: A single seen by Carl at the Hacienda Napoles and another on the last morning on Isla Salamanca.

Yellow-vented Woodpecker Veniliornis dignus: We enjoyed great looks at three of these attractive woodpeckers at El Cairo.

Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos: A pair were seen well at Rio Claro. DENDROCOLAPTIDAE Tyrannine Woodcreeper Dendrocincla tyrannina: This large woodcreeper was seen very well at Rio

Blanco. Plain-brown Woodcreeper Dendrocincla fuliginosa: A couple seen at Rio Claro and others seen in

the Minca area and at Tayrona Forest. Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus: A couple seen at Amalfi.


Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus: Singles seen on both visits to the trail to the Oilbird cave at Rio Claro.

Strong-billed Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes promeropirhynchus: A pair were noted at La Suiza and seen again in the Santa Marta mountains.

Black-banded Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes picumnus: At least three seen quite well at Rio Blanco, though as usual, the black bands were hard to see!

Straight-billed Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus picus: Several seen in open country in the Dorodal area (dugandi) and also seen on Isla Salamanca (picirostris).

Cocoa Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus susurrans: A few seen well in the Rio Claro area and also seen at Tayrona Forest.

Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii: An open country species that was seen in dry open forest at Hacienda Napoles near Dorodal.

Montane Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes lacrymiger: This attractive and well-marked woodcreeper was regularly seen in the Western and Central Andes (the endemic sneiderni), and also in the Santa Marta mountains (the endemic sanctaemartae).

Brown-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus pusillus (NL): When I played back a dawn woodcreeper song at Rio Blanco, a scythebill appeared briefly for Jonathan. Further playback only brought in Black-banded Woodcreepers, and playback of the pre-recorded scythebill song brought no response, and the bird slipped away as quickly as it had appeared!

FURNARIIDAE Stout-billed Cinclodes Cinclodes excelsior: Great views of a single at our highest point along the

Nevado del Ruiz road. Andean Tit-Spinetail Leptasthenura andicola: A handsome bird of shrubby high country, seen very

well along the Nevado del Ruiz road. Here of the race andicola. Azara’s Spinetail Synallaxis azarae: First seen and heard at Laguna Pedro Palo, and fairly commonly

seen and heard for much of the tour. Silvery-throated Spinetail Synallaxis subpudica: Great views of a pair that were called in at Laguna de

Fúquene. Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaxis albescens: This open country spinetail was seen on our first day out

at Laguna Pedro Palo and in the coffee country above La Mesa and heard a few other times during the tour.

Rusty-headed Spinetail Synallaxis fuscorufa: A numerous and attractive Santa Marta endemic that we teased into view on a couple of occasions. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is not known but is thought to be decreasing. This species has a small range and population, which is fragmented and declining due to habitat destruction caused by illegal agriculture, logging and burning. Intensification of these pressures, and hence increased inferred rates of population decline have led to its up listing to Vulnerable. It may even warrant up listing to Endangered once more detailed information on rates of forest loss becomes available.

Rufous Spinetail Synallaxis unirufa: Seen very well in the El Cairo area, but not again. Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomea: This marshland bird was seen well by our hotel at

Dorodal and again on the last day at Isla Salamanca. Streak-capped Spinetail Cranioleuca hellmayri: Another localized spinetail (endemic to the Santa

Marta Mountains and Sierra de Perijá) that showed very well indeed. Ash-browed Spinetail Cranioleuca curtata: Great views of several of these arboreal spinetails at

Laguna Pedro Palo on our first morning out. Red-faced Spinetail Cranioleuca erythrops: Fairly common at El 18 west of Cali and another single

seen in a mixed flock at Amalfi. White-chinned Thistletail Schizoeaca fuliginosa: Great views of a pair high up along the Nevado del

Ruiz road. Many-striped Canastero Asthenes flammulata: Another highland furnarid that showed extremely well

in the scope along the Nevado del Ruiz road.


Pearled Treerunner Margarornis squamiger: A most handsome cloudforest denizen that we saw very well at El Mirador and Rio Blanco.

Fulvous-dotted Treerunner (Star-chested T) Margarornis stellaris: Several encounters with this highly localized ‘mossy forest’ species in the El Cairo area. The spots on the throat are actually pretty hard to see in the field, though we were fortunate enough to see them incredibly well! Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, this species occurs on the west slope of the West Andes from west Colombia (south Chocó) south to Carchi, Ecuador, with small populations in Antioquia, Colombia, and Chimborazo, Ecuador. It is rare in Ecuador, and, though formerly considered relatively common in Colombia, the extent of habitat destruction within its range suggests that it has declined. It inhabits humid montane forest, especially mossy cloud forest, from the midstorey to the canopy, at 1,200-2,200m, but principally above 1,600m. It is primarily threatened by rapid and ongoing deforestation in the Chocó region, largely owing to intensive logging, human settlement, cattle grazing, mining and coca and palm cultivation, with destruction particularly severe within its elevational range.

Spotted Barbtail Premnoplex brunnescens: Great looks at a responsive bird at El 18 with another nearby later that afternoon.

Streaked Tuftedcheek Pseudocolaptes boissonneautii: An attractive bromeliad specialist that we saw well in the mixed flocks at high altitude at El Mirador.

Lineated Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla subalaris: As usual, this somewhat secretive and skulking furnarid was heard more often than seen though there were opportunities to see birds at Laguna Pedro Palo and Rio Blanco.

Montane Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia striaticollis: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo with a few others elsewhere.

Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner Philydor rufus: A couple seen in the mixed flock at Amalfi. Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner Automolus ochrolaemus: Some foraging birds were seen well along the

trail to the Oilbird cave at Rio Claro. Here the white-throated race pallidigularis. Striped Treehunter Thripadectes holostictus: A single well marked individual was found in a mixed

flock during the walk down from El Mirador. Streak-capped Treehunter Thripadectes virgaticeps: Excellent scope views of a calling bird at El 18,

west of Cali. Uniform Treehunter Thripadectes ignobilis: A west slope bird that we saw very well near to El Cairo. Streaked Xenops Xenops rutilans: A few seen, the first being at El 18. The form found in the Central

and Western Andes is heterurus. Plain Xenops Xenops minutus: A few seen in the Rio Claro area and seen again at Minca. THAMNOPHILIDAE Black-crested Antshrike Sakesphorus canadensis: A pair seen well on Isla Salamanca on the last day

of the tour. Not anywhere near Canada though! Black-backed Antshrike Sakesphorus melanonotus: Great looks at a fine male (and for some a

female) in the Minca area. Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus: The only one we saw was a male in coffee country above

La Mesa. Conveniently, it gave great views shortly after we had seen the closely related Bar-crested Antshrike!!

Bar-crested Antshrike Thamnophilus multistriatus: Great views of a responsive male in the coffee country above La Mesa. A near-endemic, generally replacing the previous at higher elevations (though the Barred we saw was above the Bar-crested!!). Outside Colombia only known from the Venezuelan side of the Sierra de Perijá.

Uniform Antshrike Thamnophilus unicolor: Great views of a male (and for some the female) at El 18, west of Cali, and seen again at Amalfi where we again got good views of a male. The subspecies in Colombia is grandior.

Western Slaty-Antshrike Thamnophilus atrinucha: A couple seen well at Tayrona Forest and others heard there.


Plain Antvireo Dysithamnus mentalis (H): Heard at Bosque Yotoco and La Suiza, but we did not make too much of an effort as the wood-quails took priority!

Pacific Streaked-Antwren Myrmotherula pacifica: Great views of a handsome pair in the Rio Claro area and others heard there. The current tendency is to re-name this one Pacific Antwren, since it seems to be more closely related to Cherrie’s Antwren M. cherriei than to Amazonian Streaked-Antwren M. multostriata and Guianan Streaked-Antwren M. surinamensis.

White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris: A male showed well in the mixed flock along the river at Rio Claro. Represented here by the subspecies albigula.

Slaty Antwren Myrmotherula schisticolor: A couple at Bosque Yotoco were a write-in and were the only ones of the tour.

Dot-winged Antwren Microrhopias quixensis: Two showed well in a small mixed flock along the trail to the Oilbird caves at Rio Claro. The subspecies here is consobrinus.

Southern White-fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea: The ‘White-fringed Antwrens’ that we saw at Hacienda Napoles at Dorodal in the Magdalena Valley are the subspecies hondae. The females of this form have, as we saw, virtually plain underparts and, if the complex is split into two (Northern and Southern W-f A), this form goes with Southern.

Long-tailed Antbird Drymophila caudata: Only seen at Rio Blanco where we saw the nominate subspecies well.

Jet Antbird Cercomacra nigricans: Great looks at this attractive antbird at Laguna de Sonso. Parker’s Antbird Cercomacra parkeri: We were fortunate to enjoy some stunning views of a pair of

this newly described species near to Amalfi. Chestnut-backed Antbird Myrmeciza exsul (H): Heard at Rio Claro but on the other side of the river

or distantly. White-bellied Antbird Myrmeciza longipes: A stunning male sat and posed at length in Tayrona

Forest. The subspecies here is panamensis. FORMICARIIDAE Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis (H): One was heard briefly near the Oilbird cave at Rio

Claro but a quick attempt brought no response. Undulated Antpitta Grallaria squamigera (NLH): One heard briefly by some at Rio Blanco. Moustached Antpitta Grallaria alleni (NLH): Phil briefly heard one that called back to the tape at La

Suiza but it then fell silent. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species has been down listed to Vulnerable because recent knowledge of its voice has led to its discovery at further locations, and its range is considerably more extensive than previously thought. It also appears to be tolerant to some degree of habitat degradation. Nevertheless, it still has a small and severely fragmented range, which is contracting as a result of habitat destruction.

Chestnut-crowned Antpitta Grallaria ruficapilla: Heard by all of us, Phil had great looks at one during his lunchtime vigil for Brown-banded!

Santa Marta Antpitta Grallaria bangsi: Antpittas were not necessarily our favourite group on this tour and seemed to be even less cooperative than usual! We put in a lot of time and effort for this one (so much effort some of us sustained physical injuries!), but despite this, only some of us achieved decent views, leaving the rest a little deflated. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is not known but is thought to be decreasing. This species has been up listed to Vulnerable because new information suggests that it has a small range, which is fragmented and declining owing to habitat destruction caused by illegal agriculture, logging and burning. It is currently described as common, but its population size is unknown. However, it is likely to be undergoing a rapid decline as a result of habitat loss.


Bicolored Antpitta Grallaria rufocinerea: Another super-skulker that showed well but only briefly and only to some of the group at Rio Blanco. Once again, further efforts were in vain! Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species has a small range and population, which are declining in response to habitat loss. It is consequently classified as Vulnerable.

Chestnut-naped Antpitta Grallaria nuchalis: Seen by Carl and heard by the rest of us. Although they came close on a couple of times, they seemed reluctant to pop up into view!

Yellow-breasted Antpitta Grallaria flavotincta (H): This Choco endemic (= confined to Pacific slope/lowlands of Colombia and/or Ecuador), was heard in the El Cairo area but never in a situation where we could see it! Easier in Ecuador where they can be hand fed worms!!

Tawny Antpitta Grallaria quitensis: If only all antpittas were this easy (or would life just get too dull!!). We had great looks at El Mirador and again along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Brown-banded Antpitta Grallaria milleri: The reluctance of this skulker to oblige led to a frustratingly difficult day at Rio Blanco. Despite a lot of effort, not everyone got good views. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 250 – 999 individuals and is decreasing. This species is known from very few locations in a very small range. Habitat loss and degradation is continuing within its range. It therefore qualifies as Endangered.

Rusty-breasted Antpitta Grallaricula ferrugineipectus: An antpitta success as we enjoyed fantastic views of a tame pair in the Santa Marta mountains.

Slate-crowned Antpitta Grallaricula nana (H): Heard at Rio Blanco, our rather brief attempts to lure this one into view were unsuccessful.

CONOPOPHAGIDAE Chestnut-crowned Gnateater Conopophaga castaneiceps: We enjoyed stunning views of this superb

bird at Bosque Yotoco, on the east slope of the Western Andes. The form here should be chocoensis I believe.

RHINOCRYPTIDAE Ash-coloured Tapaculo Myornis senilis: This chusquea bamboo-lover was seen well at Cerro La

Guadalupe above Bogotá, and again at El Mirador, and we also heard them at Rio Blanco. A monotypic genus, with a noticeably longer tail than in Scytalopus spp. Colombia is home to a bewildering number of skulking little tapaculos!!

Santa Marta Tapaculo Scytalopus sanctaemartae: We enjoyed a fantastic response from of this Santa Marta endemic, beautifully showing its little white crown patch has it scurried along in the open for us.

Blackish Tapaculo Scytalopus latrans: First seen at El Mirador and again on the walk down, later we enjoyed far better views at Rio Blanco.

Stiles’s Tapaculo Scytalopus stilesi: Sadly, most Scytalopus tapaculos are pretty similar to look at and are only really identifiable by range and voice. This newly described species is no exception, but did show well to all at Amalfi!

Nariño Tapaculo Scytalopus vicinior: A Choco endemic, that eventually showed well at El 18, and we heard several more in the El Cairo area.

Brown-rumped Tapaculo Scytalopus latebricola: Another Santa Marta endemic, replacing the Santa Marta Tapaculo at higher elevations, that we saw very well above San Lorenzo.

Spillmann’s Tapaculo Scytalopus spillmanni: This version of the ‘Brown-rumped Tapaculo’ showed very well to playback at Rio Blanco.

Paramo Tapaculo Scytalopus canus: This one showed extremely well at the base of the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Ocellated Tapaculo Acropternis orthonyx: High on the hit lists of those who had missed it in Ecuador this was another skulker that caused us grief! Despite two valiant attempts, we managed no more than brief views of this one!


PIPRIDAE Lance-tailed Manakin Chiroxiphia lanceolata: Excellent views of several in Tayrona Forest where we

saw some spanking males! Golden-winged Manakin Masius chrysopterus: Brilliant views of one or two superb males at Amalfi.

Prior to this, a few people had seen a female at La Suiza. White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus: Quite a few seen well in the Rio Claro area and also

seen around Minca and at Tayrona Forest. Western Striped Manakin Machaeropterus striolatus: Brilliant looks at an obliging male and a less

interesting female at Rio Claro, here of the endemic race antioquiae (named after the Antioquia Department, in the eastern part of which Rio Claro is located, and of which Medellín is the capital).

Wing-barred Manakin (W-b Piprites) Piprites chloris: Good looks at a single bird near the Oilbird caves at Rio Claro.

Thrush-like Mourner (T-l Schiffornis, T-l Manakin) Schiffornis turdinus (H): Heard once at Tayrona Forest.

COTINGIDAE Green-and-black Fruiteater Pipreola riefferii: First seen at El 18 where we got good scope views of

both males and females. We also went on to see others in the El Cairo area, at El Mirador and at Rio Blanco.

Barred Fruiteater Pipreola arcuata: Great looks at a pair at El Mirador – a truly spectacular cotingid. Orange-breasted Fruiteater Pipreola jucunda: Wow! This gorgeous species showed brilliantly (albeit

in the drizzle) near to El Cairo. Another Chocó speciality. Golden-breasted Fruiteater Pipreola aureopectus: This gorgeous fruiteater behaved well in the Santa

Marta Mountains. Here the race decora, endemic to this massive mountain range. Scaled Fruiteater Ampelioides tschudii (NL): Jonathan bumped into a female while the rest of us

were taking a rain break in the El Cairo area. Olivaceous Piha Lipaugus cryptolophus: Great scope views of one in the El Cairo area that was busy

eating a rather large invertebrate. Chestnut-capped Piha Lipaugus weberi: After a long and patient vigil, we eventually all got good

views of a pair of this recently described species at Amalfi. Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. This recently described species has a very small and severely fragmented range and population. Remaining forest continues to be degraded and destroyed, and its range and population are therefore inferred to be declining. It consequently qualifies as Endangered.

Barred Becard Pachyramphus versicolor: One of the prettiest in the genus, we first saw a female in the El Cairo area and went on to see a fine pair on the day that we drove up to Nevado del Ruiz and saw another at Amalfi.

Cinereous Becard Pachyramphus rufus: We enjoyed some good views of several at Laguna de Sonso and a male was seen by some of the group on the Caribbean coast.

Cinnamon Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus: A pair showed well at Hacienda Napoles and a couple more were seen at Minca.

One-coloured Becard Platypsaris homochrous: We watched a pair attending a nest at Rio Claro. Although the female was superficially similar to the previous species, the male was very distinctive.

Red-ruffed Fruitcrow Pyroderus scutatus: Quite a few seen very well along the road at La Suiza. No booming calls were heard, and the species seemed quiet this time of year. Here the near-endemic (there are a few records from NW Ecuador) race occidentalis, showing a solid reddish/chestnut breast and upper belly.


TYRANNIDAE Sooty-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias griseiceps: As with so many of this family, much easier to find

with your ears than your eyes! We enjoyed good looks at Laguna Pedro Palo and again at Bosque Yotoco.

Plumbeous-crowned Tyrannulet Phyllomyias plumbeiceps: This one was tough to see well as it always stayed high in the canopy. We first saw an uncooperative individual near to the hummingbird feeders at El 18 and then had better views of another at La Suiza (though it still refused to come down!). Perhaps more numerous in Colombia than elsewhere.

Black-capped Tyrannulet Phyllomyias nigrocapillus: Our first was a single in a mixed flock at Cerro La Guadalupe and some saw another at El Mirador. Both of these would have been the nominate subspecies whilst the single that we saw up in the Santa Marta Mountains at the end of the tour was the flavimentum subspecies.

Ashy-headed Tyrannulet Phyllomyias cinereiceps: A singing bird showed very well at El 18, even allowing for prolonged scope views.

Golden-faced Tyrannulet Zimmerius chrysops: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo and regularly encountered for much of the tour. Variation in Golden-faced Tyrannulet subspecies is reasonably extensive and more than one species may be involved.

Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum: Although heard elsewhere, we only saw this one along the Caribbean coast where our best views were at Minca.

Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina: The race incomta was seen well in the coffee country above La Mesa at the beginning of the tour, and we saw them again at Laguna de Sonso where we even saw a single on the nest!

Northern Scrub-Flycatcher Sublegatus arenarum: Singles seen at Minca and Tayrona. This distinctive, short-billed little flycatcher is quite like a miniature Myiarchus!

Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus: The call is what everyone wants to hear “free beer”!! We saw a few around Rio Claro and on the Caribbean coast.

Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii: Good views of a single that came in very close to playback at Rio Claro and a few others heard.

Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo and generally pretty common, noisy and widespread, at lower and middle elevations.

Mountain Elaenia Elaenia frantzii: A regularly encountered highland species, that we first saw at Laguna Pedro Palo. The subspecies we saw was pudica. The species was named after Alexander von Frantzius, a nineteenth century German collector in Brazil and Costa Rica.

White-throated Tyrannulet Mecocerculus leucophrys: A common and widespread highland flycatcher. We saw the subspecies notatus in the Central Andes and montensis which is endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains.

White-tailed Tyrannulet Mecocerculus poecilocercus: Just a single seen by Jonathan and Carl at Rio Blanco.

White-banded Tyrannulet Mecocerculus stictopterus: Replacing the previous at higher elevations, we saw two along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Torrent Tyrannulet Serpophaga cinerea: Some of the group saw a couple at Laguna Pedro Palo on the first morning and we all saw two or three in the river at La Suiza.

Agile Tit-Tyrant Anairetes agilis: It was a pleasant surprise to see a couple of these distinctive flycatchers at Cerro La Guadalupe, above Bogotá.

Streak-necked Flycatcher Mionectes striaticollis: A few, of the race colombianus, which was first seen at Laguna Pedro Palo on the first day and was subsequently seen in the El Cairo area, at La Suiza, at Rio Blanco and by some at Amalfi.

Olive-striped Flycatcher Mionectes olivaceus: Several seen well in the Santa Marta Mountains where they are represented by the endemic subspecies galbinus.

Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleaginea: Four seen at Bosque Yotoco and also seen at Amalfi and at Minca.

Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus: Small numbers seen well at Rio Claro and Carl and others saw another at Minca.


Rufous-breasted Flycatcher Leptopogon rufipectus: A couple gave good views in mixed flocks at La Suiza.

Antioquia Bristle-Tyrant Phylloscartes lanyoni: Good looks at a very responsive pair at Rio Claro and another seen nearby the following day. A Nechí endemic only described about two decades ago. Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. This species qualifies as Endangered owing to its very small, severely fragmented range, within which habitat loss is occurring at a rapid rate. Its population is assumed to be very small and declining, and made up of extremely small subpopulations.

Marble-faced Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus ophthalmicus: At least six seen well at La Suiza where they were regular in the mixed flocks.

Variegated Bristle-Tyrant Pogonotriccus poecilotis: Seen very well at El 18, west of Cali and again in the El Cairo area. The bright buff wing bars are distinctive.

Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis atricapillus: We were able to enjoy amazing views of this tiny species nest-building at Rio Claro. Weighing in at just over four grammes, I believe this is one of the world’s smallest passerines!

Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant Lophotriccus pileatus: Just one that showed well but not for long at Amalfi.

Pale-eyed Pygmy-Tyrant Atalotriccus pilaris: This tyrannid of dryer woodland, was seen nicely on a couple of occasions in the Minca area. Here the nominate race.

Rufous-crowned Tody-Tyrant Poecilotriccus ruficeps: This gorgeous little inhabitant of the undergrowth was teased into view on our walk down from El Mirador and again at Rio Blanco.

Southern Bentbill Oncostoma olivaceum: A weird little flycatcher which we saw extremely well along the trail to the Oilbird cave at Rio Claro.

Black-throated Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus granadensis: Our first was a smart and confiding individual at El 18 and we went on to see others at El Mirador and in the Santa Marta mountains. The first two sightings refer to the nominate race whilst in the Santa Marta mountains we saw the endemic subspecies lehmanni.

Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum nigriceps: This little canopy species was seen well at Rio Claro, and again by some of the group at Minca.

Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum: Small numbers seen at various locations. As far as I can ascertain, all of those that we saw should be referable to sclateri.

Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum sylvia: Lovely views of this cutie at Laguna de Sonso and seen again at Hacienda Napoles.

Brownish Flycatcher (B Twistwing) Cnipodectes subbrunneus: We saw a single that responded well to the tape near the Oilbird cave at Rio Claro. As Phil pointed out to me, they are called twistwings due to the uniquely stiffened and twisted outer primary shafts in the male and not because they twist their wings (even though they do!!).

Olivaceous Flatbill Rhynchocyclus olivaceus: Good looks at several in the Rio Claro area. Yellow-olive Flycatcher Tolmomyias sulphurescens: We saw just a single of this widespread species

at Laguna de Sonso. Ornate Flycatcher Myiotriccus ornatus: Nice looks for most of us at this rather colourful flycatcher at

Amalfi. The subspecies here is the nominate. Black-tailed Flycatcher Myiobius atricaudus: This was the rather drab ‘yellow-rumped’ flycatcher that

we saw at Rio Claro. Flavescent Flycatcher Myiophobus flavicans: Although we had one or two possible that did not show

well, I think it was only Carl who got a decent look at one near to El 18. Handsome Flycatcher Myiophobus pulcher: A couple of groups of this seemingly gregarious

flycatcher were seen well in the El Cairo area. The subspecies here is bellus Cinnamon Flycatcher Pyrrhomyias cinnamomea: Regularly encountered in the Andes (pyrrhoptera),

and in the Santa Marta Mountains we saw the endemic and much brighter assimilis.


Olive-sided Flycatcher Contopus cooperi: Just a single wintering bird at Rio Blanco. Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it breeds across Canada (overlapping into eastern USA) and Alaska, and down the west coast of the USA as far as northern Mexico. There are also isolated populations in several states in the eastern USA. It winters primarily in Panama and the Andes Mountains, from north and west Venezuela south through Ecuador to south-east Peru and west Bolivia. Casual wintering also occurs in the Guianas, Trinidad, south Venezuela, Brazil and south Peru. It breeds along forest edges and openings, semi-open forest, water edges and harvested forest where some structure has been retained. Prominent trees serve as singing and foraging posts, and both sexes are aggressively territorial. Habitat loss and alteration of forest management practices may limit breeding success. However, numerous studies suggest that several types of harvested forest are beneficial to the species (possibly recreating preferred post-forest fire habitat mosaics). Despite this, population declines are occurring throughout the range of this species, which may suggest that populations are affected by loss or alteration of habitat in wintering grounds.

Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus: One was seen in a small forest block at our hotel at Playa Koralia on the Caribbean coast.

Smoke-coloured Pewee Contopus fumigatus: Surprisingly, we just saw a single bird at Amalfi. Acadian Flycatcher Empidonax virescens: Singles seen at Rio Claro and Amalfi. Like quite a few

other boreal migrant flycatchers this one establishes a winter territory, which it proclaims by its often incessant calling.

Alder Flycatcher Empidonax alnorum: Carl and I saw one briefly at Laguna de Sonso. The identification (from Willow Flycatcher E. traillii) is based solely on range, though this may be unreliable as the ranges for the two are not well known due to their almost identical appearance. The theory is that Willow largely winters in Central America and Alder in northern South America, but since the two are only really separable on voice and do not sing very often on their winter quarters, there is a certain amount of guesswork involved.

Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans: A bird of streams and rivers that was frequently seen sitting on rocks. Particularly conspicuous along the river at La Suiza. The white-winged race that we saw, angustirostris, may be split off as a separate species.

Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus: Small numbers seen at a number of sites. Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca fumicolor: A single seen at El Mirador, and at least four along

the Nevada del Ruiz road. The birds we saw belong to the buffy-browed race brunneiceps.

Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca rufipectoralis: Only seen at El Mirador where the subspecies obfuscata was easily separated from the previous species by its strikingly white supercilium.

Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca cinnamomeiventris: We had very good views of the nominate subspecies around El Cairo and above Rio Blanco. Note that the form nigrita from the Merida Andes in Venezuela is sometimes split off as Blackish Chat-Tyrant O. nigrita and thoracica of southern Peru and Bolivia is generally split off as Chestnut-belted (or Maroon-belted) Chat-Tyrant O. thoracica.

Yellow-bellied Chat-Tyrant Ochthoeca diadema: We had great looks at several of these around San Lorenzo where the subspecies jesupi is endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains.

Smoky Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes fumigatus: We enjoyed very good views of a single of the nominate subspecies at Rio Blanco.

Santa Marta Bush-Tyrant Myiotheretes pernix: Often a difficult bird to find, we were lucky enough to see at least two above San Lorenzo, one of which showed at extremely close range. Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. This species has a very small range and is currently known from just one location (although there are likely to be others). Its habitat is declining, and concomitant declines in range and population are inferred. It thus qualifies as Endangered.


Pied Water-Tyrant Fluvicola pica: A single seen at the side of a pool on Isla Salamanca on our last day.

White-headed Marsh-Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala: A cute little flycatcher, seen well near to our hotel at Doradal.

Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonus: A couple of these distinctive tyrannids noted at Rio Claro. Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosus: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo on the first morning, this species is

expanding its range, and we noted scattered individuals in open country at a number of locations.

Flammulated Attila Attila spadiceus (H): A couple heard at Rio Claro. The division of Bright-rumped Attila A. spadiceus into Bright-rumped Attila (South America east of the Andes) and Flammulated Attila A. spadiceus (Mexico south to Western Ecuador) may be an over-simplification (or complication) depending on your viewpoint!

Panama Flycatcher Myiarchus panamensis: A few of these rather drab flycatchers were seen around Doradal.

Pale-edged Flycatcher Myiarchus cephalotes: This highland Myiarchus, which is easily recognised by the pale edges to its tail feathers, was seen a couple of times in the Rio Blanco area.

Great Crested Flycatcher Myiarchus crinitus (NL): This wintering species was seen by some of the group at Laguna de Sonso. Crinitus is Latin for ‘long-haired, hairy’, undoubtedly referring to the crest.

Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer: As usual, the plaintive call was heard more often than the bird was seen.

Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus: A widespread bird of open areas, even found right in the centre of towns.

Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua: Small numbers were seen at Doradal and Minca. Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis: Numerous and widespread at lower elevations. Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis: Surprisingly few, as we found this species only along the

Caribbean coast. Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus: Most numerous at Rio Claro but also regularly

encountered during the Caribbean section of the tour. Golden-crowned Flycatcher Myiodynastes chrysocephalus: Only noted at El 18, in the El Cairo area

and in the Santa Marta Mountains. Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius: Vocal and easily seen at Rio Claro, Dorodal and Minca.

Small but fierce, and so-called because of its habit of harassing other bird species in order to appropriating their newly finished nest for their own use.

Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savana: This migrant was first seen at Jardin with small numbers elsewhere.

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus: TK was just about the most common and widespread species of the tour!

HIRUNDINIDAE White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer: A few noted around Rio Claro and at our hotel at

Dorodal. Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea: Reasonably numerous at lower elevations. Brown-bellied Swallow Notiochelidon murina: Very common at Laguna Pedro Palo on the first

morning and reasonable numbers at a number of higher elevation sites. The scientific name murina (= mouse-coloured) is a pretty good summary of this high-elevation stunner!

Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca: Widespread in small numbers at higher elevations.

Pale-footed Swallow Notiochelidon flavipes: We enjoyed some very good views of this high altitude swallow at El Mirador, where at least 10 were watched with a mixed group of hirundines.

White-thighed Swallow Neochelidon tibialis: Several seen very well at the small pools near the Oilbird caves at Rio Claro.


Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis: First seen at Laguna de Sonso and subsequently pretty common.

Bank Swallow (Sand Martin) Riparia riparia: At least one seen at Laguna de Sonso. A write-in, but it is actually a fairly common winter visitor.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica: First seen at Laguna de Fúquene, we saw small groups at a few locations. I suspect that North American Barn Swallow and Old World Barn Swallow will be treated as separate species in the not too distant future.

CORVIDAE Black-collared Jay Cyanolyca armillata: A real stunner that showed well on the way down from El

Mirador and again at Rio Blanco. Black-chested Jay Cyanocorax affinis: Another cracker that we enjoyed in the Rio Claro area and

again at lower elevations in the Santa Marta Mountains. Inca Jay Cyanocorax yncas: A most handsome bird, first seen by some at La Suiza and seen again at

Jardin, Amalfi and in Medellin. CINCLIDAE White-capped Dipper Cinclus leucocephalus: A single was seen by some of us at Rio Blanco but we

got moved on before we all had a chance to see it. TROGLODYTIDAE Bicolored Wren Campylorhynchus griseus: First seen at Santa Marta airport and particularly

conspicuous around the grounds of our hotel at Playa Koralia. A large and handsome wren, and a cousin of Central America’s Rufous-naped and Mexico’s Giant Wrens.

Band-backed Wren Campylorhynchus zonatus: Seen very well in the Rio Claro area, where a pair were nesting by the restaurant. Here of the race curvirostris.

Rufous Wren Cinnycerthia unirufa: A large family party of at least six came in to investigate us in a small ravine at El Mirador.

Sharpe’s Wren (Sepia-brown W) Cinnycerthia olivascens: First seen well in the El Cairo area and seen again at Rio Blanco. This species replaces the previous at lower elevations.

Grass Wren Cistothorus platensis: A couple were seen in the high altitude grassland along the Nevado del Ruiz road. Here the comparatively long-tailed aequatorialis race, one of the South American subspecies that seem to be quite different from the North American stellaris group. Vocal differences are quite obvious and several species are likely involved but the details remain to be worked out.

Apolinar’s Marsh-Wren (Apolinar’s W) Cistothorus apolinari: We were all pleased to get superb views of at least four of this localized endemic at Laguna Fúquene. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. This species has a very small population and range. It is thought to be declining rapidly, owing to loss and degradation of its severely fragmented habitat. All subpopulations are suspected to be extremely small, and some have been extirpated over the last few decades. This combination of factors result in classification as Endangered.

Sooty-headed Wren Thryothorus spadix: It took a bit of work, but we eventually got excellent views of this skulking and localized wren at Amalfi.

Black-bellied Wren Thryothorus fasciatoventris: Great views of a pair at Rio Claro. Whiskered Wren Thryothorus mystacalis: Another great songster, which we saw very well at Laguna

Pedro Palo on the first day. Rufous-breasted Wren Thryothorus rutilus: Great views on the lower slopes of the Santa Marta

Mountains, here of the race laetus. Speckle-breasted Wren Thryothorus sclateri: Excellent views of this well-marked wren above La

Mesa. Here the isolated race columbianus, which may represent a separate species, the Colombian Wren (the nearest other races are found in southern Ecuador).


Bay Wren Thryothorus nigricapillus: Two of the barred race schottii seen well at Rio Claro. Rufous-and-white Wren Thryothorus rufalbus: A bird with an unforgettable song, that we saw well

around Minca. Here of the rather bright race cumanensis. Buff-breasted Wren Thryothorus leucotis: Another species that was pretty easy to see along the

Caribbean coast where we saw the subspecies venezuelanus. Southern House Wren Troglodytes musculus: Common and widespread in man-altered habitats and

a very familiar voice during the tour. Mountain Wren Troglodytes solstitialis: The race solitarius was seen well at El Mirador and again at

Rio Blanco. White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticta: Seen well at Bosque Yotoco and for some at

Rio Claro. Grey-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucophrys: Regularly heard at higher elevations with a

number of good views. Of interest were our experiences at El Cairo where we heard a song reminiscent of Munchique Wood-Wren H. negreti. Playback brought the bird into our feet, but then playback of Grey-breasted Wood-Wren had the same effect! Ian managed to get some good photos of the bird that came in and this appears to be an example of the brunneiceps subspecies of Grey-breasted Wood-Wren (this is the opinion of Paul Salaman who helped describe the species). I am therefore somewhat perplexed. Did our ears deceive us or were both species present, the Munchique choosing not to come in? Apparently, these two forms have never been found sympatrically! A mystery to investigate one day...

Southern Nightingale-Wren Microcerculus marginatus: Brief looks for myself and Ian at Bosque Yotoco and several other non-responsive birds heard.

Chestnut-breasted Wren Cyphorhinus thoracicus: Having heard them distantly at El 18 and El Cairo, we were delighted to get excellent views of a couple of obliging birds at La Suiza. Probably the best place in the world to see this species.

MIMIDAE Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus: An open country species with just a few around Bogotá and a

couple at Amalfi. A species that seems to be expanding its range southward. TURDIDAE Andean Solitaire Myadestes ralloides: A wonderful songster that seemed especially obliging this year

with several good views of the race plumbeiceps at El 18 and in the El Cairo area. Black Solitaire Entomodestes coracinus: Sadly neither of the above comments can be applied to this

species. The song is a monotone whistle, and the bird was not especially obliging, showing well to a few of us and briefly to most.

Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush Catharus fuscater: Heard singing at dusk at San Lorenzo and seen in the half light. The endemic subspecies sanctaemartae is darker than most and certainly looked dark in the light that we saw them in!

Yellow-legged Thrush Platycichla flaviceps: Three seen in the Santa Marta Mountains where the subspecies is venezuelensis.

Pale-eyed Thrush Platycichla leucops: After a bit of playing around, we eventually all got good looks at singing males at Amalfi.

Great Thrush Turdus fuscater: Ubiquitous at higher elevations. We saw gigas in the Eastern Andes around Bogotá, quindio (endemic) in the Central and Western Andes, and cacozelus (a very pale subspecies that is also endemic) in the Santa Marta Mountains.

Glossy Black-Thrush Turdus serranus: A few singing birds seen in the El Cairo area. Black-hooded Thrush Turdus olivater: A few on the way down from San Lorenzo at middle

elevations in the Santa Marta Mountains, of the endemic race sanctaemartae. Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas: First seen at Rio Claro and relatively common along the

Caribbean coast.


Black-billed Thrush Turdus ignobilis: Common and conspicuous for much of the tour but absent from the Santa Marta Mountains. A rather dull thrush.

Clay-coloured Thrush Turdus grayi: A few seen around Jardin. This stunner is Costa Rica’s national bird! Costa Ricans chose it to be the national bird out of nostalgia for that time of year just before the onset of the rainy season when the song of the ‘yigüirro’ can be heard throughout the countryside. Why would you choose something like Resplendent Quetzal when you have this one!

SYLVIIDAE Long-billed Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus: Singles seen at Rio Claro and Tayrona Forest. VIREONIDAE Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis (H): Heard on a couple of occasions but not seen. Black-billed Peppershrike Cyclarhis nigrirostris: The Andean counterpart of the previous species, we

first saw them at El 18 and had other opportunities to catch up with them in the El Cairo area and heard others!

Yellow-throated Vireo Vireo flavifrons: A single seen by some at Amalfi and then a more obliging individual for us all at Minca.

Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus: A single seen on the journey back from Jardin to Rio Blanco, and several during the Caribbean section of the tour.

Brown-capped Vireo Vireo leucophrys: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo and fairly regularly encountered in mixed flocks for much of the tour.

Rufous-naped Greenlet Hylophilus semibrunneus: Small numbers of this distinctive greenlet were noted at El 18, Bosque Yotoco and Amalfi.

Golden-fronted Greenlet Hylophilus aurantiifrons: Our best views were below Minca. Scrub Greenlet Hylophilus flavipes: Three seen in the coffee country above La Mesa and a single

noted at Minca. ICTERIDAE Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis: Seen at a number of locations this species is a brood parasite,

whose numbers must have undoubtedly gone up with the increase in deforested country. Named after Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina.

Giant Cowbird Scaphidura oryzivora: Several attending the cacique and oropendola colony at Rio Claro. Like other cowbirds, it is a brood parasite, laying its eggs in the nests of oropendolas and caciques. The host’s eggs and chicks are not destroyed, and the hosts seem somewhat unconcerned by the presence of the cowbirds. Papers have been written to suggest that the reason for this is that the young Giant Cowbirds benefit the host’s chicks by removing and eating parasitic botflies but there is considerable doubt about this theory.

Chestnut-headed Oropendola Zarhynchus wagleri: Not uncommon in the Rio Claro area. Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus: One or two in the Rio Claro area, and also easy to see

at middle elevations in the Santa Marta Mountains. Russet-backed Oropendola Psarocolius angustifrons: Several seen well at Jardin while we were

looking for and waiting for the parrots. Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela: Small numbers in the Rio Claro area (vitellinus), and a couple

at Laguna de Sonso. This species is otherwise not known from the Cauca Valley, and the Sonso population may derive from introduced birds (escaped cagebirds from Cali?).

Northern Mountain Cacique Cacicus leucoramphus: Two or three noted on our walk down from El Mirador. This form is more commonly lumped in Southern Mountain Cacique C. chrysonotus with the name Mountain Cacique being applied to the enlarged species.

Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus: Fair numbers near the Caribbean coast. This species does not yet seem to have shown the huge habitat and inland expansion it has had in Central America.


Red-bellied Grackle Hypopyrrhus pyrohypogaster: Having failed to find the species at Amalfi (where Carl and others have found it to be common in the past), we reverted to our original plan and went to see them in Medellin. Here we enjoyed great views of at least six of these superb grackles. Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. Although recent surveys have shown this species to occur at more sites than previously known, its remaining habitat is very limited, severely fragmented and declining, probably at an increasing rate. Its population is very small, and the component subpopulations extremely small and declining. As a result of this combination of factors, it qualifies as Endangered.

Yellow-hooded Blackbird Agelaius icterocephalus: Small numbers seen in the marshes at Laguna de Fúquene and again in the Doradal area.

Orchard Oriole Icterus spurius: One seen at Laguna de Sonso by Carl and Steve. Orange-crowned Oriole Icterus auricapillus: Nice views of two of these smart orioles in a rather large

tree at Rio Claro. Yellow Oriole Icterus nigrogularis: Good numbers noted at Laguna de Sonso with scattered

individuals elsewhere. Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula: Our only sighting was of a single near to Minca on our first visit

there. Yellow-backed Oriole Icterus chrysater: An attractive bird with a beautiful song that we first saw in

the trees at Laguna de Fúquene. We also saw several at the parrot spot near to Jardin. Yellow-tailed Oriole Icterus mesomelas: A male of this attractive oriole showed well at Minca. Red-breasted Blackbird Leistes militaris: We saw two around the marsh near to our hotel at Dorodal.. Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna: Only seen in the Bogotá area where we saw the Andean race,

meridionalis, which is the longest-billed race. PARULIDAE Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia: Small numbers of this widespread winterer were noted on

12 dates. Golden-winged Warbler Vermivora chrysoptera: Most of the group managed some views of a fine

male in a mixed flock at Amalfi. Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it breeds from southern Manitoba, Ontario and Quebec (Canada), and northern New York, southern Vermont and eastern Massachusetts, south through the eastern USA to Tennessee, Georgia and South Carolina. Birds winter from the Yucatán Peninsula (Mexico and Belize) and Guatemala south through El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica and Panama to northern and eastern Colombia and northern Venezuela. Although it had increased and expanded its distribution for more than a century, evidence from the North American Breeding Birds Survey suggests that it is declining in its southern range, from Georgia to New England (where decline has been particularly severe). It has shown a population increase over the last c30 years in the northern part of its breeding range, but a recent population decline has been identified. Estimates suggest a current population of c210,000 birds. Local declines correlate with advancing succession and reforestation, and the invasive range expansion of Blue-winged Warbler Vermivora pinus. Other possible causes of population declines are loss of wintering habitat (especially forest edge and open woodland), nest parasitism by Brown-headed Cowbird Molothrus ater and hybridisation with V. pinus.

Tennessee Warbler Vermivora peregrina: A few seen on our first day out of Bogotá and then reasonably numerous during the Caribbean section. ‘Peregrinus’ is Latin for ‘wanderer’. This species breeds mainly in Alaska and Canada, and was described from a migrant specimen collected in Tennessee!

Tropical Parula Parula pitiayumi: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo and also noted at a few other localities.

Yellow Warbler Dendroica aestiva: Seen at four locations and most numerous at Laguna de Sonso where we saw at least 10.


Cerulean Warbler Dendroica cerulea: Singles seen at Bosque Yotoco and at La Suiza but neither were especially easy to see in the canopy. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 560,000 individuals and is decreasing. This species has been up listed to Vulnerable, because its population is now estimated to have undergone a very rapid decline, owing to continuing habitat loss and fragmentation on its breeding grounds. Degradation of habitat through land use change is the major threat to this species. Conversion of mature deciduous forest to agricultural or urban areas, fragmentation and increasing isolation of remaining mature deciduous forest, the change to shorter rotation periods and even-aged management, and loss of key tree species to disease are all breeding season constraints. Wintering habitat is also threatened by conversion to other land uses such as pastureland and farms, and is converted into coca plantations which have a detrimental effect on suitable primary forest habitat. Attempts to eradicate coca plantations will also potentially damage forests. Mountaintop mining constitutes a known but as yet uncontrolled threat.

Yellow-throated Warbler Dendroica dominica (NL): Jonathan saw one at San Lorenzo, much to Carl’s dismay!

Blackburnian Warbler Dendroica fusca: The most numerous wintering warbler at higher elevations. Bay-breasted Warbler Dendroica castanea: A couple of fairly drab looking birds noted at Rio Claro,

the first of which failed to divert our attention from the endemic ant-tanagers! American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla: A male in the coffee country above La Mesa and a few during

the Caribbean section of the tour. ‘Setophaga’ means ‘moth-eater’. Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis: Easy to see around the damp area near to the kitchen

at our hotel at Playa Koralia. Named after New York City (novum = new; Eboracum = York!).

Prothonotary Warbler Protonotaria citrea: Amazingly common in the mangroves on Isla Salamanca, where we had stunning views of at least 20!

Mourning Warbler Oporornis philadelphia: Just two seen, most of the group managing to see the first one, a fine male, at Laguna Pedro Palo.

Canada Warbler Wilsonia canadensis: Another fairly common winter resident of montane forests. Slate-throated Redstart (S-t Whitestart) Myioborus miniatus: A common, widespread and delightful

resident of the montane forests. Golden-fronted Redstart (G-f Whitestart) Myioborus ornatus: A most attractive cloudforest denizen.

We saw two distinct subspecies, the white-faced chrysops in the mountains near Bogotá, and the yellow-faced nominate in the Central and Western Andes.

Yellow-crowned Redstart (Y-c Whitestart) Myioborus flavivertex: We saw plenty of these delightful birds around San Lorenzo – it is one of the most conspicuous Santa Marta endemics. Slightly atypical for a Myioborus whitestart, being somewhat slow and deliberate in its movements and almost (Basileuterus) warbler-like in appearance.

Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus: Several seen at Bosque Yotoco where they are obviously pretty common.

Citrine Warbler Basileuterus luteoviridis: Seen by some of the group in the mixed flock at Cerro La Guadalupe above Bogotá.

Black-crested Warbler Basileuterus nigrocristatus: Some very good looks at singing birds up at El Mirador.

Russet-crowned Warbler Basileuterus coronatus: A couple seen briefly by some at Cerro La Guadalupe above Bogotá and then excellent views of a much more obliging bird at Rio Blanco.

White-lored Warbler Basileuterus conspicillatus: This Santa Marta endemic was numerous at middle elevations allowing us several great views. Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it is relatively common in the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, where it inhabits humid montane forest, forest borders and well-developed second growth and shade-coffee plantations at 450-2,200m, where it forages at low to mid-levels, principally in the undergrowth and understorey. It appears tolerant of a degree of habitat


degradation. All remaining forest in the Santa Marta mountains is seriously threatened by agricultural expansion, logging and burning. Only 15% of the sierra's vegetation is unaltered, with the south-east slope extensively deforested, and the west slope, between 800 and 1,600m, largely cleared for coffee and illegal marijuana plantations.

Chestnut-capped Warbler Basileuterus delattrei: Seen a few times, but most numerous and conspicuous at lower elevations in the Santa Marta Mountains, especially around Minca.

Three-striped Warbler Basileuterus tristriatus: Fairly common at mid-altitude sites. Santa Marta Warbler Basileuterus basilicus: Another warbler endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains,

which took its time but eventually surrendered and showed exceedingly well. A large, slow and aberrant species, that perhaps does not belong in Basileuterus – it was formerly placed in Hemispingus! Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. This species is listed as Vulnerable because its range is estimated to be small, fragmented and declining owing to ongoing deforestation of its montane forest habitat. Despite possibly tolerating some habitat degradation, it is threatened by extensive deforestation, and has lost 21% of its habitat. It is likely to have undergone a rapid and continuing decline.

Buff-rumped Warbler Basileuterus fulvicauda: Seen a few times, it was most obvious at Rio Claro. I always find its loud song pretty impressive.

COEREBIDAE Bicolored Conebill Conirostrum bicolor: Common and easy to see on Isla Salamanca. The warbler-

like appearance of the females took some of us by surprise! White-eared Conebill Conirostrum leucogenys: One showed well in a large open tree at Hacienda

Napoles. Blue-backed Conebill Conirostrum sitticolor: A bright and attractive inhabitant of the cloudforest, we

had great views of several of the nominate subspecies at El Mirador. Rufous-browed Conebill Conirostrum rufum: An elusive individual seen by some of the group in the

mixed flock at Cerro La Guadalupe above Bogotá. This endemic is confined to the Eastern Andes and the Santa Marta mountains (but in the latter only occurring at elevations we could not get to).

Capped Conebill Conirostrum albifrons: We first saw a fine male of the blue-capped race atrocyaneum at El Cairo and went on to see males of the white-capped race centralandium at Rio Blanco. Carl was telling us that these two totally distinctive forms may well exist sympatrically where the Central and Western Andes meet, and therefore, may better be treated as separate species.

Bananaquit Coereba flaveola: As usual, common and widespread. Bluish Flower-piercer Diglossopis caerulescens: Surprisingly scarce on our tour with a couple at

Cerro La Guadalupe above Bogotá being our only sighting. Flower-piercers are nectar thieves, as their name suggests piercing the flowers at their base without performing any pollination duties.

Masked Flower-piercer Diglossopis cyanea: Several seen well at El Mirador and Rio Blanco. Indigo Flower-piercer Diglossa indigotica: An unexpected bonus at El Cairo, we had good views of a

single of this rather smart and bright Chocó endemic. Glossy Flower-piercer Diglossa lafresnayii: Two or three showed well towards the end of our day

along the Nevado del Ruiz road. Black Flower-piercer Diglossa humeralis: We managed to see three distinct races: in the eastern

Andes above Bogotá we found the nominate (with a small blue grey shoulder patch, thus making it tricky to tell from Glossy), in the Central Andes some saw the uniform black aterrima along the Nevado del Ruiz road, and in the Santa Marta Mountains we saw nocticolor, otherwise only found in the (fairly) nearby Perijá Mountains.

White-sided Flower-piercer Diglossa albilatera: Perhaps the most common and widespread of the flower-piercers. This and the following species are the only two flower-piercers in Colombia exhibiting sexual dimorphism. Here the nominate race.


Rusty Flower-piercer Diglossa sittoides: Single males were noted at El 18 and in the El Cairo area. Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus: A couple of sightings in the Rio Claro/Dorodal area. Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus: Three seen during one of our ‘pygmy-owl sessions’ at

Minca. Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza: Just a handful seen. First seen at El 18 and then seen at

Bosque Yotoco and around Rio Claro. Turquoise Dacnis (T Dacnis-Tanager) Dacnis hartlaubi: After initially putting in a brief appearance, a

male showed very well at Laguna Pedro Palo, one of the very few localities from which this handsome species is known. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. This species has a highly disjunct and poorly-understood range. It is very close to qualifying as Endangered, because the known range is very small and presumably declining (with possibly some local extirpations) in response to continuing habitat loss. However, it has been recorded at more than five locations and exhibits some habitat tolerance. It is therefore listed as Vulnerable.

Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana: A total of just three sightings, with singles west of Bogotá, at Rio Claro and at Minca.

TERSINIDAE Swallow-Tanager Tersina viridis: They seemed to be very common at Minca where we saw up to 15

in a day! I’m following the Hilty & Brown family arrangement here, but note that nowadays this one is usually no longer considered a distinct family.

THRAUPIDAE Blue-naped Chlorophonia Chlorophonia cyanea: Good looks near the hummingbird feeders at El 18

and again in the Santa Marta Mountains. Yellow-collared Chlorophonia Chlorophonia flavirostris: Another of the El Cairo bonus birds, this one

got us running off the bus in a hurry twice when it twice appeared in a tree just outside the bus when we were taking a rain break! On the second occasion a male showed well to some of us and a female stayed around a bit longer. There were also a couple of other brief sightings.

Golden-rumped Euphonia Euphonia cyanocephala: A single female showed well at El 18 west of Cali and another was seen at Amalfi

Orange-bellied Euphonia Euphonia xanthogaster: First seen in the El 18 area and seen again in the El Cairo area and at La Suiza. Like most races, the birds we saw (oressinoma), are actually yellow-bellied. A species conspicuously absent from the (impoverished) Santa Marta Mountains.

Velvet-fronted Euphonia Euphonia concinna: We were very fortunate to get excellent views of this upper Magdalena Valley endemic in the coffee country above La Mesa.

Orange-crowned Euphonia Euphonia saturata: At least four seen at Laguna de Sonso where they showed very well.

Trinidad Euphonia Euphonia trinitatis: A couple seen on the Caribbean coast where they were easily detected by their ‘dee dee’ calls.

Thick-billed Euphonia Euphonia laniirostris: Our first was a male watched feeding low down at Laguna de Sonso and later we had quite a few encounters around Rio Claro and in the Caribbean.

Fulvous-vented Euphonia Euphonia fulvicrissa: A single male showed well at Rio Claro, here at the southern end of the species’ range.

Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota: The three that we saw at Laguna de Sonso on our first day ended up being our only ones.

Glistening-green Tanager Chlorochrysa phoenicotis: Brilliant views of at least three of these splendid Choco endemics at El Cairo.


Multicoloured Tanager Chlorochrysa nitidissima: Great views of this legendary bird along the trail at El 18. The bird we saw looked essentially like a female but with a bluish cast to the underparts, so may actually have been an immature male. In addition, I saw a male in a mixed flock at La Suiza. Classified as Vulnerable by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 2,500 – 9,999 individuals and is decreasing. It has a small range, and is known from a small number of locations. Its known population is suspected to be small, fragmented into very small subpopulations, and declining as a result of continuing habitat loss. Consequently, it is listed as Vulnerable.

Golden Tanager Tangara arthus: A stunning montane species that we saw at a number of sites. Saffron-crowned Tanager Tangara xanthocephala: At least three showed well at El 18. Another

superbly colourful species. Flame-faced Tanager Tangara parzudakii: One of the most attractive in the genus. We saw the

nominate at Laguna Pedro Palo and the somewhat duller lunigera (red of forehead replaced by orange to light cadmium) in the El Cairo area.

Metallic-green Tanager Tangara labradorides: A few in the Western Andes at El 18 and El Cairo. A fairly poor name for what is a rather bluish bird. Labradorides is actually derived from the French ‘pierre de Labrador’, feldspar (labrador stone), thus referring to the shining blue reflections in this species’ plumage.

Blue-necked Tanager Tangara cyanicollis: Common and widespread but nonetheless striking in appearance. More associated with second growth than most others in the genus.

Golden-hooded Tanager Tangara larvata: A few showed well in the Rio Claro area. Golden-naped Tanager Tangara ruficervix: At least one was found in the multihued Tangara tanager

flocks at El 18. Plain-coloured Tanager Tangara inornata: This species showed well near to our hotel at Dorodal.

Probably the dullest in the genus, but a good ‘South America tick’! Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola: Two distinctive races were seen of this one: the turquoise-

bellied deleticia in the Andes, and toddi in the Santa Marta Mountains, which is all grass-green except for the bay head. The name ‘gyrola’ is derived from the Latin ‘gyros’, or ring, and refers to the golden nuchal collar present in most races of this species.

Scrub Tanager Tangara vitriolina: Another species which prefers second growth. One of the most numerous and widespread tanagers in Colombia’s valleys and on the adjacent slopes, but outside the country it is a localized speciality in northern Ecuador.

Beryl-spangled Tanager Tangara nigroviridis: Another common, widespread and attractive denizen of the montane forests.

Blue-and-black Tanager Tangara vassorii: Only noted in the highest forests, it was particularly common around El Mirador.

Black-capped Tanager Tangara heinei: We had regular encounters with this strikingly sexually dimorphic Tangara. First noted at Laguna Pedro Palo on our first morning.

Black-headed Tanager Tangara cyanoptera: Half a dozen or so noted at lower and middle elevations in the Santa Marta Mountains.

Purplish-mantled Tanager Iridosornis porphyrocephala: A spectacular species which seemed surprisingly conspicuous at both El 18 and El Cairo, both in the Western Andes. Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it occurs in the West Andes of Colombia (principally on the Pacific slope north to south Chocó, and at the north end of the Central Andes in Antioquia) and north-west Ecuador (where it is definitely known only from Carchi and Imbabura, with an uncertain record from Loja in the south). It inhabits the lower growth of humid mossy forest and forest borders, principally at 1,500-2,200m, but has been recorded to 750m in Cauca, and 2,700m in Antioquia. It is threatened by rapid and ongoing deforestation, largely the result of intensive logging, human settlement, cattle-grazing and mining, with severe destruction in the core of its elevational range.

Golden-crowned Tanager Iridosornis rufivertex (NL): Seen by Steve and Jonathan along the Nevado del Ruiz road but sadly missed by the rest of us.


Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus igniventris: We were treated to repeated good looks at this stunner. Two races were encountered, differing in crissum colour: lunulatus in the Eastern Andes, and erythrotus in the Central Andes.

Santa Marta Mountain-Tanager (Black-cheeked M-T) Anisognathus melanogenys: Another handsome Santa Marta endemic which was fairly common but great to see!

Lacrimose Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus lacrymosus: Our best views of this washed-out version of the previous species were at El Mirador.

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus somptuosus: First seen at El 18, we noted this striking species at four locations.

Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager Anisognathus notabilis: We were all pleased to get a couple of opportunities to see this localized species in the El Cairo area.

Hooded Mountain-Tanager Buthraupis montana: Surprisingly we just managed a single sighting of this one at El Mirador.

Gold-ringed Tanager Bangsia aureocincta: Certainly one of the highlights of the trip and second in our vote for bird-of-the-trip. After a depressing day in the rain, the following morning seemed to hold little more promise though this turned out to be one of the first species we saw! We went on to get great looks at several! Classified as Endangered by BirdLife International, the world population is estimated at 1,000 – 2,499 individuals and is decreasing. The species has a very small range, and is currently known from just three localities. Continuing habitat loss and consequent range and population declines are projected for the main subpopulation, because of proposed road construction. In other areas, habitat loss is likely to be ongoing. As a result, it qualifies as Endangered.

Buff-breasted Mountain-Tanager Dubusia taeniata: Our only encounter was with a couple of the nominate race as we went from Rio Blanco up towards Nevado del Ruiz.

Blue-grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus: Numerous and widespread. The scientific name is derived from the ‘episcopal blue’ plumage.

Glaucous Tanager Thraupis glaucocolpa: One showed well just after we arrived at the roadblock in Mingueo!

Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum: Common and widespread. Blue-capped Tanager Thraupis cyanocephala: A single for some of the East Andean form auricrissa at

Laguna Pedro Palo. Several more in the Western Andes (annectens), and we also saw the smaller margaritae, endemic to the Santa Marta Mountains.

Crimson-backed Tanager Ramphocelus dimidiatus: A widespread tanager of open and secondary habitats. This colourful species has – of all places – been introduced into Tahiti though Bob and I failed to find it there!

Flame-rumped Tanager Ramphocelus flammigerus: Several good looks at this Cauca Valley endemic which we first saw near the hummingbird feeders near El 18, and we then saw them better around Jardin where one of the individuals showed quite a yellowish rump.

Lemon-rumped Tanager (Yellow-rumped T) Ramphocelus icteronotus: We only managed a couple of brief sightings of this one which is far commoner further south!.

Highland Hepatic-Tanager Piranga lutea: A total of four seen, the first two of which were at Laguna Pedro Palo on the first morning. Note that the original Hepatic Tanager P. flava has now fallen apart into three species: this one; Lowland Hepatic-Tanager P. flava of lowland eastern and southern South America; and Northern Hepatic-Tanager P. hepatica of the southwestern USA down to Nicaragua.

Summer Tanager Piranga rubra: Quite a good number noted, including several males. Ochre-breasted Tanager Chlorothraupis stolzmanni: One seen by some when we were looking down

a gully at El Cairo. Sooty Ant-Tanager Habia gutturalis: A superb Nechí endemic that eventually gave us great views at

Rio Claro, spiking up its red crest! Classified as Near Threatened by BirdLife International, it has a restricted range within north-west Colombia, where it occurs in the upper Sinú valley at the north end of the West Andes, and east along the north base of the Andes to the middle Magdalena valley. Despite a report that it may benefit from forest destruction,


it is now adjudged rare in (often streamside) undergrowth in tall secondary and patchy woodland at 100-1,100m. It is highly insectivorous, with pairs or small family groups following swarms of army ants or joining mixed-species flocks. Suitable habitat within its range is unprotected and relatively reduced. The middle and lower Magdalena valley has been extensively deforested since the 19th century (for agriculture), and clearance of its foothills has been near total since the 1950s.

White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus: Just a couple seen at Jardin. White-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus luctuosus: Several showed well at Rio Claro, including the

distinctive females. Tawny-crested Tanager Tachyphonus delatrii: A few, including some fine males, at Rio Claro. Scarlet-browed Tanager Heterospingus xanthopygius: A fine male posed at length in the scope at Rio

Claro. Grey-headed Tanager Eucometis penicillata: Just a couple noted at Rio Claro. This species is often

associated with ant swarms. Dusky-faced Tanager Mitrospingus cassinii: A noisy, almost antbird-like tanager of the undergrowth,

a couple of which showed well at Rio Claro. Rosy Thrush-Tanager (Rose-breasted T-T) Rhodinocichla rosea: After a bit of a struggle, we got great

looks at a male at Minca. Guira Tanager Hemithraupis guira: A single male was noted in one of the feeding flocks at Amalfi. White-capped Tanager Sericossypha albocristata: Another trip highlight was our mind-boggling

views of a party of five (two bright males and three females I think) at Rio Blanco. These sensational birds ended up being around us all afternoon and we even watched them foraging at ground level! Ended up as number four in the ‘bird of the trip’ contest.

Common Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus: Only seen at Amalfi and in Medellin the following day. A species with a lot of geographic variation, I believe that the subspecies that we saw was exitelis.

Ash-throated Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus canigularis: A species of mixed flocks, we first noted this one at El 18 and went on to see others in the El Cairo area and at La Suiza.

Dusky-bellied Bush-Tanager Chlorospingus semifuscus: Small number of the northern (Western Andes) race livingstoni were seen daily in the El Cairo area. Paul noted “Southward the Western Andes is separated from the west slope of the ‘unified’ Andes (where the nominate race is found) by the Hoz de Minamá, the deep canyon of the Patía River; this barrier also separates e.g. Black-billed and Plate-billed Mountain-Toucans. Both races do look quite different, Munchique birds looking ‘odd’ compared to the ones I always see above Mindo in Ecuador” Another split in the offing?

Black-backed Bush-Tanager Urothraupis stolzmanni: A treeline species, a small group of which showed well along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Grey-hooded Bush-Tanager Cnemoscopus rubrirostris: At least three were found in a mixed flock at Rio Blanco.

Black-capped Hemispingus Hemispingus atropileus: This well-marked species was first seen at Cerro La Guadalupe above Bogotá and others seen at El Mirador and at Rio Blanco.

Superciliaried Hemispingus Hemispingus superciliaris: We had some good views of the race nigrifrons in the Central Andes (blackish forecrown) where they were most common and conspicuous at El Mirador.

Oleaginous Hemispingus Hemispingus frontalis: We saw a couple at El 18 and another at La Suiza. Great name, it is the world’s only bird with this lovely epithet!

Black-eared Hemispingus Hemispingus melanotis: A single sneaking through its favoured bamboo habitat at Cerro La Guadalupe above Bogotá was our only one.

Black-headed Hemispingus Hemispingus verticalis: A very attractive hemispingus, showing especially well in the mixed flocks at El Mirador.

Grass-green Tanager Chlorornis riefferii: Two of these attractive and distinctive tanagers were seen in a mixed flock at Rio Blanco.

Black-faced Tanager Schistochlamys melanopis: A single at Amalfi much to Carl’s delight!


CATAMBLYRHYNCHIDAE Plush-capped Finch (Plushcap) Catamblyrhynchus diadema: First seen well at Cerro La Guadalupe

above Bogotá where we noted four, including some interesting-looking juveniles. Singles were also noted at El Mirador and Rio Blanco. A bamboo specialist, nowadays usually no longer placed in its own family.

FRINGILLIDAE Dickcissel Spiza americana: A single male, as we walked back to the hotel following the Mingueo

debacle, was a pleasant surprise. Blue-black Grosbeak Cyanocompsa cyanoides: A female showed well at Minca as she fed quietly in

the undergrowth. Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus: A single at Rio Claro and then common during the

Caribbean section of the tour. Black-winged Saltator Saltator atripennis: We had a few sightings of this one. First noted in the El 18

area, we also saw them at La Suiza and Rio Blanco, and they were perhaps most conspicuous in the Amalfi and Medellin areas.

Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens: First seen west of Bogotá and small numbers were noted at a couple of other sites.

Streaked Saltator Saltator striatipectus: First seen at Laguna Pedro Palo and later seen at several other sites.

Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus: This boreal migrant was seen at a number of sites with our highest count being 15 at El 18. Named after the Louisiana Territory or Colony, the Mississippi Basin claimed by France and named after King Louis XIV (‘Ludovicius’); covering a much larger area than the present state of Louisiana, it was a Spanish possession from 1763, before being repossessed by the French and sold by Napoleon to the USA in 1803. Loggerhead Shrike and Carolina Wren also have this interesting historical background to their scientific names!

Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis: At least three at Laguna de Sonso where the population probably derives from escaped or released birds.

Yellow-throated Brush-Finch Atlapetes gutturalis: A relatively widespread bird that seemed to grab our group’s attention! After brief singles at El 18 and Rio Blanco, everyone saw them well at Amalfi!

Pale-naped Brush-Finch Atlapetes pallidinucha: At least six of the papallactae subspecies showed well along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Santa Marta Brush-Finch Atlapetes melanocephalus: One of the easier Santa Marta endemics, we noted at least 10 during our stay.

Tricoloured Brush-Finch Atlapetes tricolor: This pacific slope species was relatively common in the El Cairo area where we saw several.

Moustached Brush-Finch Atlapetes albofrenatus: Small numbers of this relatively arboreal species were seen well at Laguna Pedro Palo, where the nominate race occurs.

Slaty Brush-Finch Atlapetes schistaceus: This one showed very well up at El Mirador and again at Rio Blanco.

Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch Atlapetes brunneinucha: A single watched grovelling on the ground at Laguna Pedro Palo and others seen by some at El Cairo and at La Suiza.

Stripe-headed Brush-Finch Atlapetes torquatus: We only noted this one at Rio Blanco (an elusive singing bird of the race assimilis, lacking the black breast band), and another seen in the Santa Marta Mountains, of the endemic race basilicus (which, along with several other subspecies, does have a black breast band). More than one species are likely involved.

Black-striped Sparrow Arremonops conirostris: A pair seen by some during the chaotic ‘pygmy owl session’ in the afternoon at Minca. There were many things to look at all at the same time!

Golden-winged Sparrow Arremon schlegeli: We had a few sightings of this one along the Caribbean coast and eventually everyone got some good looks.


Yellow-faced Grassquit Tiaris olivacea: Small numbers at scattered localities with a maximum count of c10 at Amalfi.

Dull-coloured Grassquit Tiaris obscura: This one had us confused to begin with! Singing males were seen at Laguna Pedro Palo, La Suiza and Amalfi and all showed solidly dark bills with a fleshy pink gape patch. Most literature suggests that this species should show a bicoloured bill and that this is indeed the key identification feature. However, having dug deeper into the literature, it appears that not all birds show bicoloured bills, and I wonder if the all dark bill is actually a feature of breeding-plumaged males? One to look into further...

Paramo Seedeater Catamenia homochroa: Good views of several of the nominate subspecies along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Plain-coloured Seedeater Catamenia inornata: Around half a dozen of the race minor along the Nevado del Ruiz road.

Lesser Seed-Finch Oryzoborus angolensis: Three seen near to our hotel at Dorodal. A slightly strange scientific name!

Grey Seedeater Sporophila intermedia: Our first sighting was of three at Laguna de Sonso and we saw scattered individuals elsewhere.

Black-and-white Seedeater Sporophila luctuosa: A small group of about four including a fine male were seen at Jardin.

Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis: Small numbers at several sites. First noted at El 18. Ruddy-breasted Seedeater Sporophila minuta: First seen at Laguna de Sonso (a female) and then

good numbers in the Rio Claro/Dorodal area. Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina: First noted at Laguna de Sonso where we saw them jumping

up and down in display and several more at other sites. Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola: A human commensal that seems to be continuing to spread. Our

highest count was of c30 near to the hotel at Dorodal. Plumbeous Sierra-Finch Phrygilus unicolor: Four of these high-altitude finches were found along the

Nevado del Ruiz road. Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis: Numerous at higher elevations. Andean Siskin Carduelis spinescens: Good numbers up at El Mirador where a flock of at least 50 was

seen on a couple of occasions. Hooded Siskin Carduelis magellanica: About six were noted at El Mirador. Yellow-bellied Siskin Carduelis xanthogastra: A few noted in the town square at Jardin and another at

Rio Blanco. Lesser Goldfinch (Dark-backed G) Carduelis psaltria: This one was noted in small numbers at several

sites. I’m glad I’ve got to the end of 638 species! MAMMALS Tropical Red Squirrel (Neotropical Red S, Red-tailed S) Sciurus granatensis: A few seen. Central American Agouti Dasyprocta punctata: The rather dark-rumped agoutis that we saw well in

Tayrona Forest. Long-tailed Weasel Mustela frenata: One seen by some in the Santa Marta Mountains must have

been this species. White-nosed Coati Nasua narica (NL): One seen on the last day at Isla Salamanca by some of the

group. Cotton-top Tamarin Saguinus oedipus: This is the handsome tamarin that we saw in Tayrona Forest. Venezuelan Red Howler Monkey Alouatta seniculus: A male seen at Bosque Yotoco and a small

group of these impressive beasts were seen well at Tayrona Forest. Others were heard elsewhere.

Top Birds of the Tour


1st YELLOW-EARED PARROT (Pete Morris)

2nd Gold-ringed Tanager (Phil Tizzard)

3rd White-mantled Barbet (Phil Tizzard)

4th White-capped Tanager (Pete Morris)


5th Turquoise Dacnis-Tanager (Phil Tizzard) 6th= Red-bellied Grackle (Pete Morris)6th= Rusty-breasted Antpitta (sorry - no photo)6th= Sooty Ant-Tanager (sorry - no photo)And the best of the rest...

Torrent Ducks at La Suiza, Tawny Ant-pitta and im-mature male (or perhaps bright female?) Multicoloured Tanager (all by Pete Morris)


White-bellied Woodstar, Sapphire-bellied Hum-mingbird, Spectacled Parrotlet, Oilbird and Com-mon Nighthawk(all by Pete Morris)


Apolinar’s Marsh-Wren, Russet-throated Puffbird and Crested Bobwhite (all by Phil Tizzard), the ‘El Cairo wood-wren’ (which seems to be the brunneiceps subspecies of Grey-breasted Wood-Wren) (Ian Lewis), Cauca Guan and Spotted Barbtail (Phil Tizzard) and the fantastic Santa Marta mountains from San Lorenzo (Ian Lewis)

tour report - birdquest-tours.com rep 07.pdf · tour report leader: pete morris and carl downing it...

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