Historical Japanese ClothingFor Cosplayers

An overview of traditional Japanese clothing, from the Heian era to the present day, with an emphasis on fabrics, construction techniques, and how cosplayers in the West can replicate these garments without going broke in the process.

HistoryTime periods of note:

○ Heian■ 794–1185

○ Muromachi■ 1336–1573

● Includes Sengoku period○ Edo

■ 1603–1868○ Meiji

■ 1868–1912

SeriesCLAMP

X

Tokyo Babylon

Tsubasa

Gintama

Shinsengumi series

Shrine Maidens

Mononoke

Inuyasha

Series

Bakumatsu series

Gintama

Kenshin

Peacemaker Kurogane

Mononoke

Series

Heian-era clothes

Inuyasha

Sailor Moon

Women

Kimono

Obi

AccessoriesHakama (nondivided, ex: shrine maidens)Haori

Breakdown of StylesFor WomenSleeve lengths convey messages about age & marital status

The longest sleeves are reserved for unmarried young women & girls in formal occasions

Color and pattern also convey messages about formalityBlack is very formal, and also used for funeral attireMon (family crests) are also an indication of formality

Accessories are further used in styling kimonoThis includes obi and the knots used to tie them

Heian EraMajor cultural

exchange with China

Importation of Chinese styles for the nobility

WomenHeavily layeredDesigned for aesthetics,

not functionalityChoice of colors importantFrequently all a man would

see before marriage

MenAlso fairly layeredMore functionalStill in use (Shinto

priests)

Men

Kimono

Hakama (nondivided or divided)

Kataginu (formal)Jinbaori ('campaign coat')

Breakdown of StylesFor MenSignificantly less choice and style in men's kimono

Colors are usually subdued, with little patterningOnly two obi types, one formal, one informalOnly recently has style shifted towards more colorful styles

The ‘Modern’ Kimono

WomenSpecific colors and style for different ages and occasions

Furisode (long sleeves, for unmarried women)

Kakeshita (wedding kimono)

Uchikake (elaborate wedding over-robe, padded hem)Some movement away from rigid definition in recent years

MenStill very subdued colors - browns, blacks, bluesMore experimentation with pattern and fabric in recent years

ConstructionKimono are constructed primarily of rectangular pieces of fabric of fixed width (13”-15” based on the historical width of looms). Sewn so that the garment can be taken apart again for washing.

This construction makes it very easy to adjust the size of a kimono for any body type, as no specific ‘pattern’ is needed, the kimono can be constructed based on body measurements.

http://kimono-lover.blogspot.com/2014/04/leanring-how-to-make-yukata-part-one.html

Patterns

Traditional layout uses as few cuts as possible, from

narrow-width fabric - everything is rectangles!

Online patterns and tutorials easily found

'Make Your Own Japanese Clothes’ - John MarshallRound Earth hakama pattern - http://www.round-

earth.com/

Fabrics

In early times: flax, linen

Silk via China, originally a luxury

The finer the silk (= fewer slubs and imperfections) the

better quality

Cotton reaches Japan late, via trade routes to India.

Initially seen as somewhat prestigious

Fabrics (continued)

By the late 19th century, silk becoming more widely

available

20th + 21st century: Silk is most formal, rayon is a less

expensive substituteWestern options: high quality satins, crepe silks, satin-

weave cottons

Embellishment techniques

Dyeing - Indigoworks on

cotton/linen/hemp

tricky to use

still used (jeans!)

Embellishment techniques

ShiboriJapanese 'tie-dye'

used most often with

indigo

Embellishment techniques

Dyeing - Silkvery easy to dye

vibrant colors

lots of techniques

Embellishment techniques

Stencil Dyeingtraditionally paste resist

modern alternatives

available

Embellishment techniques

EmbroiderySilk or rayon floss

Metallic thread couching

Embellishment Techniques (cont.)

PaintingMetallic paints

Matte paints not traditionally

used, but a simpler

alternative to dyeing

Embellishment Techniques (cont.)

Appliquetraditionally used on lower-class clothing

can be a substitute for painting or dyeing fabric

Non-Kimono GarmentsTechniques used for other garments tooLOTS of accessories - sometimes easier to buy.

ex: geta and zori can be found via ebay sellers

ArmorAppearance and

construction vary over time

Also varies based on rank

IE: Generals vs. Foot soldiers

Armor cont.Possible MaterialsEVA foam (anti-fatigue

mats)Sintra (PVC board)Paracord and shoe laces

(for lacing)chain mailpatterned fabrics leather

Armor cont.Resources

SengokuDaimyo.comAbundant information on traditional construction and patterns for

making armor - geared towards SCA, but can be adapted for cosplay.Punishedprops.com

Video tutorials and e-books on foam armor fabrication - geared to videogames, can be adapted for Japanese armor.Youtube!

Slides Onlinehttp://www.slideshare.net/pinnedtogether/japanese-clothing-48235608

Useful Linkshttp://www.iz2.or.jp/english/index.htm - diagrams and models of Heian-era clotheshttp://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm - kimono and hakama tutorialshttp://www.round-earth.com/index.html - patterns for multiple garmentshttp://www.folkwear.com/asian.html - patterns for multiple garmentshttp://sarcasm-hime.net/tipscosplay.html - hakama tutorialhttp://www.dharmatrading.com/ - fabric and supplies for dyeinghttp://www.fabrictales.com/STORE/store.cgi?product=chirimen_solid - rayon chirimenhttp://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html - rarer garments with photos and descriptionshttp://www.sengokudaimyo.com/katchu/katchu.html - guide to traditional armor, including patterns and instructions

References & ResourcesDalby, Liza. Kimono: Fashioning Culture. Seattle: U of Washington, 2001. Print.

Dobson, Jenni. Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes. London: Batsford, 2008. Print.

Koike, Yoko, Kumiko Kozakai, and Tomomi Ahiko. Sashiko Style: Traditional Japanese Patterns for Contemporary Design. Japan: Co-published by Japan Publications Trading, and Joie, 2007. Print.

Kure, Mitsuo. Samurai: Arms, Armor, Costume. Edison, NJ: Chartwell, 2007. Print.

Marshall, John. Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear. Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1988. Print.

Tamura, Shuji. The Techniques of Japanese Embroidery. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 1998. Print.

Hakama Pattern, Round Earth Publishing: http://roundearth.stores.yahoo.net/hakformarar.html