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Training GroundsThe right start to a career in gems and jewellery depends on a solid foundation. Erum Ali Qureshi maps out the gems and jewellery institutes in the country that impart training in different disciplines in this field.

raining and education go hand in hand in building the future of any industry. The gems and jewellery industry in India has

always depended on skills passed on from one generation to another, but it is only in the recent past that several training institutes have sprung up to offer a diverse range of courses in this field.

Education and training play a key role in helping any industry to become organised and professional. And the gem and jewellery industry recognises this fact as it is no longer an insular sector. India is the global leader in cut and polished diamonds, and is fast emerging as the favoured destination to source jewellery.

In such a scenario, one has to have an army of trained designers and professional manufacturers who can cater to and understand what their customers from across the world desire.

Fortunately, our country has no

shortage of visionaries who have been several steps ahead of their times. Many of them have dedicated their resources towards setting up world-class institutes across the country.

Here, in no particular order, are some institutes that are shaping the future of the industry and the students’ destinies.

Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery (IIGJ), Mumbai About: The IIGJ Mumbai, set up in 2003 by the GJEPC and backed by the Ministry of Commerce & Industry, is a non-profit organisation. Since its inception more than 3,000 students have graduated from the institute.Vision: Col S.K. Arora (Retd), head of the institute, informed that the IIGJ’s objective is to provide knowledge and churn out ace professionals in the field of jewellery. “Although the Indian jewellery industry is recognised as a

global leader in cutting and polishing diamonds, it is slowly getting organised in jewellery manufacturing too. Due to this transformation it is essential that we have young talented minds to take this industry to the next level as we have increasing competition in this field,” he says.Courses: IIGJ courses cover concept building, marketing, manufacturing, design, computer aided design and manufacturing, gemmology and diamond grading and jewellery sales and marketing. The three-year degree programme is also highly sought after by jewellery design aspirants. The institute also teaches hallmarking techniques and holds gold appraisal workshops for bankers. USP: The fee structure is competitive and the intensive courses offered are varied in their scope. Vasant Mehta, chairman, IIGJ informs, “It was a proud moment for us when in August 2007, the IIGJ Mumbai was accredited by the All

T

Students at the ATR Institute of Jewellery Design, Raipur

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India Council for Technical Education (AICTE), the Directorate of Technical Education, Maharashtra.

In 2011, the institute was recognised by the government of Maharashtra as a Vocational Training Provider (VTP) under the Skill Development Initiative Scheme of the Directorate of Vocational Education & Training, Mumbai.

Indian Institute of Gems and Jewellery (IIGJ), JaipurAbout: The IIGJ Jaipur was launched in the year 1998 and approximately 3,000 students have benefited from the courses offered here. Vision: Institute head Abha Gupta outlines her vision for an ideal training institute, “There are three things that a training institute needs to focus on. First, there is a need for affordable alloys. Second, there is a need to develop grading systems for coloured stones

and hallmarking of jewellery. Third, the jewellery industry is becoming mechanised and training institutes should provide the required human resources for it.”Courses: The institute provides short courses in jewellery design, production techniques that include model making, stone setting, and casting. Computer aided designing programmes in Coreldraw, Rhino, Jewelcad and J-cad software as well as semester and trimester courses in gemmology are conducted.

The institute conducts continuing education programmes and skill

upgradation programmes, and soon plans to start programmes in refining and electroplating.USP: The IIGJ Jaipur of fers af fordable fee str uctures and good amenities to its students.

Sawansukha Institute of Gemology and Jewellery Design (SIG), KolkataAbout: Established in Kolkata by Sawansukha Jewellers in 2006, the institute is a finishing school that offers various certificate courses in gems and jewellery. More than 1,000 students have

Jewellery making workshop at the Dept. of JD&T, JSS Polytechnic

IDI Surat City Centre IIGJ Jaipur Derewala Tower

NIFT Gandhinagar Manipal Institute of Jewellery Management

JSS Polytechnic, Mysore

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passed out since its inception. Vision: Siddhartha Sawansukha, the institute’s founder is a seventh-generation jeweller, who has set up SIG to create a talent pool in the country. “Initially my inspiration to set up SIG was to create a bridge between the buyers and the sellers; to help a layman enter the jewellery trade with ease and confidence; and to ensure that jewellery purchasing becomes more transparent,” explains Sawansukha.

“With emerging technologies and marketing strategies the jewellery industry is getting corporatised. Jewellery courses will be soon equated with MBA

courses,” he says. Jewellery manufacturing technologies, the world over, have outpaced the traditional techniques employed by karigars. Sawansukha believes that it is important to embrace new methods of making jewellery, and so having professionally trained designers and craftsmen is the need of the hour. Courses: Courses offered at SIG vary from two to 15 months after which students are awarded certificates or diplomas. Jewellery design courses between three to six months and a comprehensive course that lasts for 15 months are also offered.

USP: Sawansukha perceives the jewellery industry as a bright career choice for the young generation. The courses give equal importance to the creative aspect of jewellery making as well as the commercial side of the business. The ISO: 9001 2000-certified institute teaches students how to visualise and communicate ideas in a four-step approach of anticipating, analysing, designing and creating.

ATR Institute of Jewellery Design, RaipurAbout: Established by Raipur-based Anoop Chand Trilok Chand Jewellers in 2005, this institute now has 35 branches across India. The perceived lack of formal training and education in the art of jewellery designing in India, led Nitin Bardia to set up this institute. Vision: India’s unorganised jewellery industry is slowly beginning to accept professionals into the field, notes Bardia. Courses: The institute offers a six-month diploma in jewellery design and a three-year advanced jewellery designing degree, which is affiliated with the Annamalai University. It also offers a two-year MBA course in jewellery business management.USP: The institute with 35 branches across India has specially designed, subsidised programmes for students from rural areas, making it easier for economically challenged students to get a good start in their careers.

Rhea’s Studio - Popley’s Jewellery Design Workshop, MumbaiAbout: Rhea Nasta established her eponymous design studio 15 years ago. The need to start an institute arose because she was aware of the lack of opportunities available in the country when she herself wanted to take up formal training. “I began my training with a karigar at the Popley family business,” reminisces Rhea. “I learnt all about filigree, granulation, embossing, enamelling, and much more.” Later she attended a designing workshop with UK government’s Developing Countries

One on one training at GIA India

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Trade Agency (DeCTA) in London, and did a course with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Vision: Although she trained abroad, Nasta did not forget the lack of training opportunities in the industry back home. Thus, the design studio was born. “Understanding the industry is important and academies have helped the industry by adding talent. Now those from a non-jewellery background can gather knowledge and confidently enter the industry and those in the family business already can avail formal training to facilitate learning.” she adds.Courses: The offerings include basic and advanced jewellery designing courses and computer-aided designing. USP: At the design studio, Nasta conducts the courses in an informal manner where the ideas are exchanged freely.

Gemological Institute of America, Mumbai (GIA) About: Robert M. Shipley, a former retail jeweller, established the Gemological Institute of America in 1931 in Los Angeles, California, out of his home. Today, the GIA is an internationally recognised organisation with 12 schools in 10 countries. It has some of the best laboratories that grade the world’s most important diamonds. The Indian chapter of the GIA was established in 2004 and has since reached 25 locations across India. Vision: Nirupa Bhatt, managing director, GIA India and Middle East says, “I believe

the Indian gem and jewellery industry has tremendous potential. If we pay attention to training and education, it will provide further impetus to our growth trajectory. Given the rate at which our businesses are expanding, a qualified workforce is greatly needed. When each person in the value chain is well informed, issues can be resolved before they can reach the end customer, and foster continued trust in the industry.” Courses: Training is delivered in the form of full-time/part-time programmes, lab classes, skill-building seminars and workshops, customised corporate training and self-paced distance education programmes. GIA India also offers a variety of other diploma programmes, including Graduate Coloured Stones, Accredited Jewellery Professional and a Jewellery Design Certificate, a nine-week Jewellery Design Certificate course, and a one-week SWIFT Design class. USP: The GIA is known worldwide as the “Harvard of the gem and jewellery industry”. Its accredited Graduate Gemologist (GG) and Graduate Diamonds (GD) diploma programmes are internationally recognised as the hallmark of professional credentials.

National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Gandhinagar About: The Gandhinagar-based institute is the only one of several NIFT centres which offers specialised jewellery and accessory design courses. Vision: NIFT has a well-defined

curriculum for developing integrated expertise in design methodology, materials and production process, consumer behaviour and market dynamics, trends and forecast interpretations, business practices and project management in the field of fashion and lifestyle accessories.

Ranjeet Kumar, assistant professor, department of fashion & lifestyle accessories says, “The jewellery design module at NIFT Gandhinagar is designed in such a manner that participants learn the elements of design, form study, fashion and forecasting, technical drawing, design methodology, simple product design, marketing, concepts, techno aesthetic detailing, materials and processes, prototyping, virtual prototyping through modern techniques as also CAD and CAM.”Courses: NIFT offers a four-year Bachelor’s degree and two-year Master’s programme in the areas of design, management and technology. Apart from regular courses in jewellery design NIFT Gandhinagar conducts a Continuing Education (CE) Program – Jewellery Design & Handicraft Technology ( JDHT). They also offer a short term jewellery manufacturing course at the Jewellery Design & Training Centre ( JDTC) set up by Industry Commissioner, government of Gujarat.USP: The education programmes at NIFT are extensively integrated with the fashion business. Internship and industry visits as well as realistic projects, seminars

IIJ students attending a manufacturing workshop K. T. Ramachandran giving a lecture at GII

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and interactions provide opportunities for students to appreciate and understand the system and work environment of the industry.

NIFT has signed MoUs with 39 international fashion schools and has on board 60 confirmed seats for student exchange programmes. The academic collaboration also allows faculty exchange and joint projects between NIFT and international universities.

SNDT Women’s University’s PVP Polytechnic, MumbaiAbout: SNDT Women’s University has four campuses in and around Mumbai. They have a dedicated Department of Jewellery Design and Manufacture which was set up in 1995 at their P.V.P. Polytechnic in Juhu. Vision: The SNDT University itself was set up to work towards the betterment of women by training them in the professional sphere in 1916. PVP Polytechnic is considered one of the pioneering centres for education in gem and jewellery sector in India. It is also ostensibly the only institute with a stipulated common entrance test (CET) for admission to the jewellery designing stream. Department head, Devinder Layal says, “Last academic year we won and were nominated for two international and seven national jewellery design competitions. Looking ahead we have plans to launch a postgraduate programme and Master’s degree in jewellery design soon.”

Courses: It offers a B.Sc. degree in Jewellery Design (3 years) that is affiliated to the Mumbai University. The institute also shares an MoU with HRD, Antwerp - Belgium for diamond grading and basic gemmology courses. Also on offer are short-term courses in design, manufacture, Jewelcad and enamelling. USP: The curriculum is wholesome as it offers management courses such as branding and retail and visual merchandising to enhance the overall development of the students.

The Vakil’s Academy of Jewelry Design, Mumbai About: Hetal Valia-Vakil established this institute in 1992 and since then has trained more than 2,500 students. Vision: A teacher at heart, the GIA graduate had always wanted to teach jewellery design. “When I got back to Mumbai, no one believed that teaching jewellery design had any future in India. But, I strongly believed otherwise and since no institute wanted to take the risk of starting a course on jewellery design, I decided to set up my own academy,” she says. Valia-Vakil adds that most business firms today are realising the importance of educated and qualified professionals. “Such professionals should be able to interact with a karigar as well as an international buyer, and optimise the returns for their company.” Courses: The centre offers a number of courses in jewellery designing, diamond grading and valuation and different

long term and short-term courses. They also have teacher training for jewellery subjects and training for sales associates in the jewellery industry.USP: The institute goes an extra mile to arrange additional sessions for free in order to ensure that students get a solid grounding.

JSS Polytechnic for the Differently Abled, MysoreAbout: This Mysore-based institute for handicapped or differently-abled students was started in 1992 and has been granted autonomous status by the Board of Technical Education of Karnataka. Vision: The institute, which has an affordable fee structure, takes a modern approach to ancient Indian jewellery-making techniques. Shivakumar S.S., department head of jewellery design and technology, says, “As jewellery designing does not need much physical effort, it is suited to the capabilities of differently-abled individuals.”Courses: The institute offers a three-year diploma in jewellery design and technology; and one-year course in jewellery making and stone setting. Courses on casting, refining and assaying, and computer-aided jewellery design are also offered.USP: The institute provides job placements to its students.

Manipal Institute of Jewellery Management (MIJM), ManipalAbout: The Manipal Institute of Jewellery Management was established

Students at GII Jewellery designing at Manipal Institute of Jewellery Management

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in August 2005. Speaking about the initiative behind establishing the institute, Prof. (Col) M.M. Shanbhag director, MIJM, Manipal says, “The entry of corporate players like Tata’s Tanishq, Reliance Jewels etc., and the increase in competition necessitated the need for professional management of the jewellery business. Visualising a gap between the demand and supply of professionals in the industry, Manipal University instituted the MJIM.”Vision: The jewellery industry which is facing global competition needs to lay emphasis on professional management. Training institutes provide a platform for exchange of knowledge/skills within the industry and integrate best practices into the jewellery sector, Shanbhag says of the need for professionals in the sector. Courses: The institute offers a three-year BBA degree in Jewellery Design & Management. Graduates and diploma holders are permitted lateral entry to the second year of the course. The MJIM also offers short-term courses in jewellery design, manufacture, gemstone identification, diamond grading and casting.USP: Regular career guidance programmes/counselling sessions are held at various locations. In addition to this, the fee structure

is very competitive for a three-year programme. Gemmological Institute of India (GII), Mumbai About: The GII was established in the year 1971, and almost 10,000 students have passed out of the institute to date. The GII is also a gem-testing laboratory and a research and development centre backed by the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India (GJEPC).Vision: Institute head K.T. Ramachandran, a renowned gemmologist, believes that any growing industry in the world should have a scientific background. “The gem and jewellery industry in India was filled with family-run operations; it then moved on to a small scale industry and now it has slowly taken the shape of a corporate-run sector,” he says.

Ramachandran explains, “It is essential for people at the grass root level and the managerial level to have a formal education. Education about the products and their various scientific and technical aspects is vital for an entrepreneur,” he adds.Courses: The GII offers full time and correspondence gemmology diplomas; rough and polished diamond grading and basic jewellery designing courses ranging from two weeks to one year. USP: The institute is one of the oldest

in Mumbai and has one of the most experienced faculties. Besides, the fees are affordable.

Indian Diamond Institute (IDI), Surat About: The IDI was established in 1978 and approximately 30,000 students have been trained here. Vision: Institute head Samir Joshi says, “In the near future, education in the gem and jewellery sector will play a vital role to fulfil the requirement for skilled manpower in the industry. Training in areas like stone setting, polishing and filing and CAD designing will play a vital role to meet the industry demand.”Courses: Diploma courses in jewellery designing, diamond grading and sorting, model making, gemmology, as well as certificate courses in CAD, stone setting, casting, assaying, refining, bruting, polishing, planning and marking among many others are offered by IDI. It also has a three-year programme in jewellery design and manufacturing.USP: The GJEPC-backed venture offers the most comprehensive range of courses that cover almost everything there is to learn about the jewellery industry. It also has an on-campus hostel facility for out-of-state students and recently added the IDI City Centre campus – a new, bigger state-of-the-art facility.

Students at the Sawansukha Institute of Gemology and Jewellery Design