{travel. - bmj military health · bungalows with inferior accommodation: this applies specially to...

E. Hope Falkne,' 379

in a rigor and frothing at the mouth; temperature sub-normal; pulse 84 ; respira.tion 20. Examina.tion of heart, lungs and abdomen was negative. '1'he scar of operation was well healed and there was no tenderness. Warmth and a hot drink restored bim to a normal condition in a conple of hours "nd he slept peacefully until 8 a.m. He was discharged in thirty-six hours but 110 clne as to tbe callse or the rigors could be discovered. He bad no foreign service on his recm·d.

'l'he case is one which ended as mystel'iously as it began . The absence of vomiting. slow pulse, subnormal temperature- except in the first evening -together with tbe slight rigidity and change in the character of the tongue, are unusual features in a case of appendicit.is.

An explanfLtion of the rigors lVould be interesting in the absence of any subsequent temperatllre.

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SINGAPORE.

By }IRs. E. HOPE F AL KNElt.

SKETCHES DY MISS HOPE F ALK~EK.

SINOAPORR is an extremely difficult place to describe in that it haB many dmwbacks; it is useless and misleading to omit these, and yet to convey appreciation in spite of them is no easy task. So much has been written about voyages that nothing further need be stated here except that all preparations for the time actually 011 board sbip-twenty-seven to thirty days-sbould be as for India, only witb a larger supply of thin clotbillg.

The whole of tbe journey from Port Said is usually very hot, and on a trooper there is seldom any j,ind of laundry.

CLIMATE.

Anyone who has heen here a long time complains of loss o[ energy, and a great grouse against the place is the lack of a hill station. To (base wbo lil<e " somewhat moist heat and can keep fit, Singapore i8 quite pleasant, but it is not a good place for convalescence. There is frequent rain and the country is always green, fine grass lawns are everywhem, and much tropical vegetation.

Fruit and flowers are far more plentiful tban, say, in Bermuda, and the climate on the whole is far less trying tban the average plain station in India. Mosquiloes abound and bite furionsly, but they are not the dangerous kind . Malaria is not very prevalent, but there is "' good deal of dengue fever about.

'I'he temperature remains much the same all the year round with rather heavy rains towards the cnd and bad electric storms in the early spring.

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JIJ. Hope Falkner 381

Children do fll.irly well while qnite young; tbe absence of fresb milk affects them somewhat, and they become pale but not actually ill. Tbey sbould be sent home when 6 years old at latest.

COST OF LIVING.

Tbis is one of the greatest drawbacks to this station. All foodstnfTs are dearer tban at home, and tbe c"nteen just saves the situation. Drinks come in duty free and so cost considerably less tban in England. Fresh meat c"n bc obtained locally, but whatever the market price the cook manages to steal a certain amount on everytbing.

Meat from the Cold Storage Company is fairly expensive and like all frozen art.icles is never RO good as when fresh.

Chickens and ducks can he obtained locally for a few sbillings each (plus cheating), and frozen ones much more expensively at the Cold Storage.

SRRVANTS.

These are nearly all Cbiuese and they have been allowed to come in and Illonopolize the labour market, form trade unions and secret societies, and practically dictate their own terms. Roughly tbey correspond to tbe Indian servant at double the cost. 'L'he ordinary requirements {or scmor people are:-

UoHufI Dolltlr~

Qne head boy 30 One coolie .. 20

" second boy 25 " syce 35

cook .. 30 "

gardener 20 . , a.mah .. 35 "

assista.nt gardenor 15

Taking the dollar at 2s. 4d. it will be seen that this works out at rather over £25 per month, or more than £300 a year, a huge outlay for native servants.

The head boy is supposed to be responsible for and direct tbe other servants, dust the drawing·room and keep the silver clean. The second boy waits on "maste," and both attend at table. The cook has the easiest job, doing notbing outside his kitchen; be goes off daily to buy vegetables, collect the ice, etc., and insists on being drIven home in a rickshaw at about a shilling 11 time. This trifling item works out at about £20 a year, and quite half this sum must be allowed {or mosquito burners to keep one's rooms habitable in the evenings.

The amahs-women servants- are a perfect curse here now. During tbe boom a rew years ago they were paid enormous wages and have rought against reduction more than any other class of servant. Occasionally one gets a good one and they do the fine laundry work, iron one's frocks, and mend, etc.

A really good lady's amah is nearly impossible to obtain under £5 a month, alld those who can't sew or wash sometimes come for less but are very little use. Children's amahs are much more easily obtained but cost




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about the sall1e. The Chinese woman is much more willing to t.ake a job with children-involving as it does !1 [(OOa bedroom indoors and freqllent motoring-rather than the less interesting job of looking after the" lllem's .. wardrobe. If any class of servant is dismissed more oitell than is approved a kind of "boycott" is arranged, specially aluongst the "mahs, and it is very trying in tbe heat to do without one, and to have to get up early and hang all one's clothes out on the verandah for .. few bours' airing every day.

The coolie or tucanayer, as he is called locally, attends to the very primitive sanitary arrangements, washes floors, looks much the same as the other servants but has to do all the unpleasant jobs.

The syce may be either (or horses or motor: personal experience

with a Malay has been most satisfactory, but house servants of this type are only obtainable Up,coulItry, and if imported are intimidated by the Chinese.

All the staff is at work by G.30 a.m., stopping at 11 a.m. for food, and disappearing for sleep after tiflin. 'fhey do no real work except d,:ring the mornillgs-" very irritating custom-and as little as possible in the evenings.

The" gardeners can sometimes be dispensed with; few Army people can afford an amah, and junior officers try to do with one boy instead of two. Otherwise the foregoing staff is the least possible number compatible with a comfortable home.

'l'he servanLs are supposed to provide their own food, but pilfering




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has been brougbt to sucb a fine art lhat they practically batten on tbe household.

Ho.uSBS.

With the exception of tbe G.O.C.'s house-where General Malcolm has lovely gardens-the Army accommodation is very limited. There are two little groups or bungalows, one in Tanglin anll one in Alexandra Barracks. 'l'be former is on a small hill, and sitting on the top is the Regimental Commanding Officer's quarters, an old-fashioned house witb no conveniences, bad floors, and generally uncomfortable. There are other bungalows with inferior accommodation: this applies specially to Alex-

andm Barracl<s, a small group miles away formerly used for a native regiment. As in many other stations, there have never been enough houses to go round. Some are being built bere, however, and it is calculated that in abont six months there will be a couple surplus.

Unfortunately the new ones are absurdly, grotesquely small, appearing more like dolls' houses, so that tbe main faul~s of the existing quarters are being perpetuated for all time.

On ani val last October, the outgoing regiment had provided some sort of accommodalion for every member of the incoming one.

'rhe two married R.A.fiLC. officers and their families, viz., the S.M.O., wire and grown-up daughter, and a married captain, wife, child and nursc, were compelled to go to an expensive hotel.




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384 Singap01'e

It was then found that only one quarter was available anywhere for these two f"'lllilies, and intended for the S.M.O.

The quarter usually· occupied LJy tbis officer is miles aw",y from the hospit",1 and further still from headquarters: and in fact the most 01ltlying bungalow in tbe garrison.

It is better than lUany of the regimental ones, but at the time mentioned it had not been renovated for nine years, bad no lights, no sanitation, and a poor water supply. 'fhe bathrooms consist of square holes cut in the corner of the flooring in each bedroom-all of which are upstairs-and a ladder-like staircase descends into small dark roOIllS with cement floors where baths can only be taken in great discomfort.

Owing to the lack of space, distance out, and want of conveniences tbe I::;';\I.O. deCIded not to occupy this quarter; but when it was done up tbe married captain went into it under protest as the sole means of escaping bis heavy Lotel expenses. He stili occupies tbis house, and bad tbe S.M.O. not been willing to give it up this junior ollicer would still be in a hotel, where the lowest quotation possible for living expenses alone was within a few dollars of his entire pay and allowances.

After some three weeks in this hotel, at a cost of over £70, tLe S.II1.0. found a large roomy bouse ftt a rental of £300 a year and whicb had previously been rented for double this SUIll. It had some luruiture inclnded; and thcre being no otber quarter now available lodging allowance has been sanctioned.

It lUay be interesting to state that when ordering a telephone great indignation was expressed at the cost, which is £19 a year. The official was politely informed that only onc instrument was reqnired-not a dozen.

He somewhat snappily protested that people out Lere could afford tbese prices, being paid three times the usual home salary.

He was still more politely informed that this phone was required by an Army officer and not an oil magnate-whereupon be became most sympathetic and withdrew his previous remarks about the question of being able to afford it.

r:ro return to the house questioll: owing to ~hc size and spaciousness of this bonse, wbich contains a fine billiard room and bas large grounds, it was possible to entcrtain all the married people and children and all tbe personnel of tbe Corps at a series of four parties given for tbe purpose during Christmas week.

It is boped that it may be possible to hold further similar entertainments in the near future and at regular intervals.

FURNl'l'UltE.

Hardly anything is available on hire from barracks. All small tbings sbould be brought from home sucb as curtains and cbintzes, glass and




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E. Hope Falkner 385

china, enamelled bedroom ware, portable baths and kitchen utensils. Mosquito nets can be obtn,ined at several shops at about 25s. per net. Every h~usehold article is approximately three times the price of home. Japanese straw carpets are largely used, wicker furniture is moderate in price locally, and more solid teak things can be made to order by excellent Chinese carpenters.

It is as well, however, to bring out anything already possessed as no one hurries in Singapore-any attempt at speed is definitely resented, and the irritation and the delays in procuring things are dillicult to realize.

Electric light will soon be available in all military quarters-that is to say in a couple of years with luck-and our old friend the kerosene tin may yet disappear. Needless to say that electric light and all modern conveniences are already in all but the very oldest civilian residences. ,

MOTOR CARS.

Tbere are more cars in proportion to the popUlation here tban anywhere else. As there are no paths except in the town, people cannot very well walk, the l'oads being thronged with bullocks, natives, trams, rickshaws and ca.rs.

Motors are amongst the very few things cheaper than in England -there being no duty-and American cars average out about £100 less each than in England for any of the makes up to £500.

For instance, a 1V24 Studebaker five-seater with bicycle wheels costs £300. One exception is Henry Ford, whose cars are sold locally at £30 each dearer than in London for the totally inadequate reason that " there is such a demand." 'I'he local agent sells six Ford cars every day.

In this connexion it may be pointed out that few junior married ollicers can afIord any car, and in consequence sOllle of the wives can hardly get about at all, leading terribly dull lives and dependent on " lifts" from long-suffering friends.

In contrast to this all business people, office clerks, petty bank officials, etc., seem to have some conveyance; and indeed their comparative prosperity III all directions is striking and seen perhaps more than anywhere in their housing accommodation.

Spom's. There is no military club of any description, but the handful of officers

and families are allowed to join existing clubs on favourable terms. There is a good racecourse where there are three-day meetings every half year. The horses are mostly Australian and the jockeys are imported for thc occasion, and both tour round to many other meetings within reach. These animals are chiefly owned by local Sultans, of whom Johore and Perim have perhaps the blggest stables.

Hacking is practically out of the question partly owing to the cost of upkeep and the very limited riding ground available.

'rbe polo club is not a very impressive affair and the polo available can hardly be considered first class.

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The yacht club is a funny little bungalow near the sea only possible to get to by driving through slum areas of the city.

Sailing is expensive and unsatisfactory owing to defects in the design of the one class of boat available, and becanse of the difficulties is only indulged in by the very keenest devotees.

Tennis is available most of the year and the grass courts are excellent. Cricket, golf and football are all played, also hockey.

All sports gear perishes quickly and is best brought out fresb from home. There is any amount of dancing, specially for tbose who do not mind with whom they dance. The floors are excellent hut some of the bands are decidedly the reverse.

CLOTHING.

As in the case of household goods, almost anything from home is about three times tbe price. Really good models are extortionate and seldom obtainable. Indian and Chinese dur7.ies do exist but cost about twice as much as in India. 'l'hey bave no fixed charges and allY job means a running fight, the result depending on who gets tired first. They seldom do. Men's suits are quite well made by Chinese who make good white ones for abont 18s.

Thel'e is a horrible local custom of wearing white dinner suits for the absnrd reason that" they feel comfortable." They look like nothing on earth and will never be admired by the ladies. Khaki can he made more cheaply than at home. bnt it is a good plan to have a pattern snit. Women are not nearly so well catered for, and those who have any pretensions to being well dressed should bring out everything.

Stockings, and silk by the yard, even local products, are really no cheaper tban at home, except for an occasional bargain.

Gloves get mouldy and are little worn except in the evening for big shows. Shoes have to be brushed over daily but old ones can be re-covered with brocade locally for about £1 including material. Other shoes made here are never quite satisfactory and are just as expensive as at home. Glace, taffetas, and fine silk simply fall to pieces, but cottons, crepons, washing silks, and crepe-de-chine last all right.

Chinese washer men are not as good as might be expected. They do not teal' things as the Indian dhobi does but are expert in removing colour, and not very good at finishing. They charge about 30s. a month for a small household. Plain morning frocks easily washed and not transparent, and everything loose and straight, are much needed: garments hanging straight are cooler than those belted at the waist. A few good afternoon frocks for Government House and other at bomes are required, also plenty of the less expensive type of evening frock.

Sun helmets are not worn much by women, who use thick bats and sun umbrellas in the day time, but these are not sufficient for Port Said or other ports of call on the voyage out.

Light wraps are useful for motoring when the heated body feels quite chilled, and after tennis and for night use.




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E. Hope Falkner 387

Cotton mosquito boots of Russian shape are usetul.

GARRISON, &c. The garrison consists of one battalion of British infantry and two com

p~nies of Royal Garrisoll Artillery, Olle company of R.A.M.C. and the usual details. There is also a battalion of Indian inlantry stationed at Taiping.

So fa.r the Navy has very little personllel, there being only three or four officers stationed here in connexion with the Naval Base work.

There are three hospitals in all for the troops in this Command. One of these is in Tanglin Barracks, the other on the Island of Blakang JliIati, and the third at Taiping.

The pay in this station is as follows. The pay and allowances of a Lieutenant-Colonel officiating as Senior Medical Officer are: Pay £70 per

On the main roa.d to Jobore.

month; allowances about £50 per month, including lodging allowance. When lodging allowance cannot be drawn this sum is cut down by about £13 and a quarter provided.

Majors receive exactly the same ' as at home except for the Colonial allowance of 4s. per day.

Captains the same as at home with 3s. per day Colonial allowance. Most civilians obtain in cash or kind a sum equivalent to their home

salary multiplied hy three, and even then are not satisfied. A very senior Army man receives rather less than a third more, while

the increase for a junior is negligible.




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388 SinrJapOl'e

Civilians are nearly all exempt I"om borne income·tax, though SOme of tbem pay a trilling percentage out here.

Army people get the same pay as a& home with little increase to meet the high local charges; they have to pay full income·tax, and are literally paid in shillings in a country where it actually takes two and a half sbillings to buy one shilling's worth.

In couclusion it may be said that the surrounding district is very beautiful. There are delightful motor drives on excellent smooth roads, parts of the country looking like the road from Monte Carlo to Menton;

On the main road to J ohorc.

there are lovely groves of palms, patcbes of tbe less interesting rubber trees and stretches of real jungle, all within twenty minutes of the barracks.

In tbe opposite direction lie the Straits full of shipping of all nations. A busy spot is Singapore, a coming place it migbt be thought but for

the rapacity of the business man and the inertia of the native. Let salaries be more generous, tradespeople less greedy, and find some

method of speeding up things and Singapore may yet become tbe hub of the universe.




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