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DASK!CCOM

MODATION

IF YOURE PREPARED TO STAY A LITTLE FURTHER OUT THE RANGE OF OPTIONS INCREASESCONSIDERABLY0RIVATE ROOMS CAN BE BOOKED THROUGH 'RAND4OURIST IN THE MALLAT THE ENDOF THEUNDERPASS LEADING FROM THE STATION 0ODWALE'RODZKIE-ONn&RI AMnPM 3AT AMnPM )N *ULY AND!UGUST IF YOU lND THEYEARROUNDHOSTELSARE FULLYOUCANTURNTOSTUDENTDORMITORIESBOOKEDTHROUGH!LMATURONTHElRSTmOORAT$UGI4ARG-ONn&RIAMnPM3ATAMnPM4HECITYSCAMPSITES AREOPEN FROM-AY TO3EPTEMBER

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DASK!CCOM

MODATION

(OTELSANDPENSIONS"CBLVM#FFUIPWFOB'SJFOEMZQFOTJPOXJUIDPNGPSUBCMFSPPNTXJUIPSXJUIPVUCBUISPPNJOBRVJFUTVCVSCLNXFTUPGUIFDFOUSF&BTJMZSFBDIFEPOCVTFTBOE%PN"LUPSBVM4USBHBOJBSTLB4JNQMFCVUDPTZQFOTJPOJOHPPEDFOUSBMMPDBUJPO3PPNTBSFFOTVJUFBOEDPNFXJUI57%PN)BSDFS[BVM;B.VSBNJXXXEPNIBSDFS[BQSWQM4JNQMFCVUDMFBOSPPNTKVTUBGFXNJOVUFTXBMLGSPN%VHB)BTEPSNJUPSZTUZMFBDDPNNPEBUJPO[

GSVHBMEPVCMFTXJUITIBSFECBUISPPNTBOEBTNBMMOVNCFSPGFOTVJUFEPVCMFTXJUILJUDIFOFUUFT%PN/BVD[ZDJFMBVM6QFOIBHB/JDFMPDBUJPOPVUJO8S[FT[D[JOBRVJFUTJEFTUSFFUUFONJOVUFTXBMLOPSUIPG(EBTL1PMJUFDIOJLBTUBUJPO#BTJDTJOHMFTBOEUISFFUPGPVSQFSTPOSPPNTBTXFMMBTFOTVJUFEPVCMFTBOEEPVCMFTXJUITIBSFEGBDJMJUJFT$POWFOJFOUDBSQBSLOFYUEPPS)BO[BVM5PLBSTLBXXXIBO[BIPUFMDPNQM-VYVSZIPUFMXJUIMPUTPGBUNPTQIFSFSJHIUCZUIF.PUBXBDBOBM4PNFSPPNTDPNFXJUIEPDLTJEFWJFXT)FXFMJVTVM)FXFMJVT[BXXXPSCJTQM#JHNPEFSO0SCJTTIPXQJFDFmWFNJOVUFTGSPNUIFDFOUSBMTUBUJPOXJUIUBTUFGVMMZEFDPSBUFESPPNTTPNFIBWFHSFBUWJFXTPGUIF4UBSF.JBTUP)PMJEBZ*OO1PEXBMF(SPE[LJF"TDPNGPSUBCMFBOEXFMMSVOBTZPVXPVMEFYQFDUGSPNUIFJOUFSOBUJPOBMDIBJOBOECBOHPQQPTJUFUIFTUBUJPO.BSJOBVM+FMJULPXTLBXXXPSCJTQM/JOFTUPSFZXIJUFDVCFSJHIUPOUIFBENJOJTUSBUJWFCPSEFSCFUXFFO(EBTLBOE4PQPU3PPNTBSFCMBOECVUDPNGPSUBCMFoBOEUIFCFBDIJTBNFSFNBXBZ4XJNNJOHQPPMUFOOJTDPVSUTBOELJEEJFTQMBZBSFBBSFPOTJUF5BLFUSBNPSGSPNUIFUSBJOTUBUJPOUPUIF+FMJULPXPUFSNJOVTBNJOSJEF/PWPUFMVM1T[FOOBXXXPSCJTQM"UZQJDBMNJESBOHFCVTJOFTTIPUFMXJUIJO

FBTZXBMLJOHEJTUBODFPGUIF(XOF.JBTUPBMUIPVHIUIFIPUFMJUTFMGJTPEEMZTUSBOEFECFUXFFOBCVTZIJHIXBZBOETDSVGGZQBSLJOHMPUT1FOTJPOVM#FFUIPWFOB/PGSJMMTQFOTKPOCVUSPPNTBSFDMFBOBOEWFSZHPPEWBMVF4FF"CBLGPSEJSFDUJPOT1PTFKEPOVM,BQMJD[OBXXXPSCJTQM&JHIULJMPNFUSFTOPSUIXFTUPGUIFDFOUSFJOUIFTFBTJEFTVCVSCPG+FMJULPXPUIJTJTBSHVBCMZUIFOJDFTU0SCJTIPUFMJOUPXO#BMDPOJFESPPNTTPNFXJUIBTFBWJFXPUIFSTMPPLJOHPOUPUIFXPPET*OEPPSTXJNNJOHQPPMBOEmUOFTTDFOUSF*UTOFBSBQMFBTBOUTUSFUDIPGCFBDIBMPOHXIJDIZPVDBOXBMLUP4PQPU5BLFUSBNPSGSPNUIFUSBJOTUBUJPOUPUIF+FMJULPXPUFSNJOVTBNJOSJEF4[ZEPXTLJBM(SVOXBME[LBXXXT[ZEMPXTLJQM/FXJTIVQNBSLFUDIPJDFXJUIQMVTISPPNTBOEBUUFOUJWFTUBGGPOUIFCVTUMJOHNBJOTUSFFUPGUIF8S[FT[D[TVCVSC5SBNPSGSPNUIFNBJOUSBJOTUBUJPOPS4,.USBJOUP(EBTL8S[FT[D[7JMMB&WBVM#BUPSFHPXXXWJMMBFWBQM6QNBSLFUCFEBOECSFBLGBTUJOBRVJFUTVCVSCBOTUSFFUJO8S[FT[D[

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

5IF$JUZ4HE'WNE-IASTOTHELARGESTOFTHEHISTORICQUARTERSISTHEOBVIOUSSTARTINGPOINTFORANEXPLORATIONOFTHECITYTHE3TARE-IASTOACROSSTHETHINRIBBONOFTHE2ADUNA#ANALISTHENATURALPROGRESSION4HETHIRDSOUTHERNQUARTER3TARE0RZEDMIECIE CUTOFFBY THE0ODWALE0RZEDMIEJSKIEHAS ITSMAIN FOCUS FORVISITORSINTHE.ATIONAL-USEUM.ORTH ALONG THE CANAL7ESTERPLATTE n AND ITS MONUMENT COMMEMORATINGTHEOUTBREAKOF7ORLD7AR))nCANBEREACHEDBYBOATFROMTHECENTRALWATERFRONTASCAN'DYNIA3OPOTANDTHE(EL0ENINSULAATRIPTHATALLOWSGOODVIEWSOFTHEFAMOUSSHIPYARDS-OVINGNORTHOUTTOWARDS3OPOTISTHE/LIWASUBURBWITHITSCATHEDRALnONEOFTHECITYSMOSTDISTINCTIVELANDMARKSnANDBOTANICALGARDENS

4HE'WNE-IASTO%NTERING THE'WNE -IASTO -AIN4OWN IS LIKE WALKING STRAIGHT INTO A(ANSAMERCHANTSSETTLEMENT4HELAYOUTTYPICALOFAMEDIEVALPORTCOMPRISESATIGHTNETWORKOFSTREETSBOUNDEDONFOURSIDESBYWATERANDMAINROADSnTHE2ADUNAAND-OTAWACANALSTOTHENORTHANDEAST0ODWALE0RZEDMIEJSKIEAND7AY*AGIELLOSKIETOTHESOUTHANDWEST4HEANCIENTAPPEARANCEOFTHISQUARTERS BUILDINGS IS DECEPTIVE BY-AY THE lGHTING BETWEEN'ERMAN AND2USSIANFORCESHADREDUCEDTHECOREOF'DASKTOSMOULDERINGRUINS!GLANCEATTHEPHOTOSINTHETOWNHALLBRINGSHOMETHESCALEOFTHEDESTRUCTIONANDOFITSREVERSAL

5LICA$UGAAND$UGI4ARG5LICA$UGATHEMAINTHOROUGHFAREAND$UGI4ARGTHEWIDEOPENSQUAREONTHEEASTERNPARTOFITFORMTHENATURALFOCUSOFATTENTION!SWITHALLTHEMAINSTREETSHUGEGATEWAYSGUARDBOTHENTRANCES"EFORETHEWESTERNENTRANCETO$UGASTANDSTHEOUTER"RAMA7Y&YNNA5PLAND'ATEANDTHE'OTHICPRISONTOWERWHICHONCEHOUSEDTHECITYSTORTURECHAMBERS4HEGATEITSELFBUILT IN THE LATE SIXTEENTHCENTURY ASPARTOF THE TOWNSOUTER FORTIlCATIONSUSEDTOBETHEMAINENTRANCETO'DASK4HETHREECOATSOFARMSEMBLAZONEDACROSS THE ARCHWAY n 0OLAND 0RUSSIA AND 'DASK n ENCAPSULATE THE CITYSHISTORY4HIS GATE WAS ALSO THE STARTING POINT OF THEhROYAL ROUTEv USED BY 0OLISHMONARCHSONTHEIRANNUALSTATEVISITS!FTERTHE5PLAND'ATETHEYWOULDPASS

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DASK4HE#ITY

)PTUFMVM8BPXB:)"QMBDFDMPTFUPDJUZDFOUSFXJUIQSJDFTGSPN[BOJHIUJOUFOQFSTPOEPSNT"MTPTPNFEPVCMFTBOEUSJQMFT0GUFOPWFSSVOXJUIHSPVQTTPSJOHBIFBE

#AMPSITES$BNQJOH0SMJOBVM-B[VSPXB0OBMPOFMZCFBDIJOUIFNJEEMFPGXPPETUIJTJTEFmOJUFMZUIFDBNQTJUFXJUIUIFOJDFTUMPDBUJPOUIPVHITPNFXBZPVUPGUPXOBCPVULNFBTU$BOCFSFBDIFECZCVT[QFSQFSTPO$BNQJOH4UPHJVM8ZENZXXXLFNQJOHHEBOTLQM$MPTFUPUIFTFBJOUIF

4UPHJEJTUSJDU$BOCFSFBDIFECZUSBNGSPNUPXO"CPVU[QFSQFSTPO$BNQJOHVM)BMMFSB*OUIFTVCVSCPG#S[FOPEVFOPSUIPGUIFUPXODFOUSFUSBNTBOEQBTTOFBSCZGSPNUIFDFOUSBMTUBUJPO4JUFTDPTU[FBDIBOEUIFSFBSFBGFXCVOHBMPXTGPS[5IFSFTBTNBMMDIBSHFUPLFFQDBSTPSNPUPSCJLFTPWFSOJHIU$BNQJOHVM+FMJULPXTLB/FBSUIFCFBDIBU+FMJULPXP3FHVMBSDBNQJOHGBDJMJUJFTQMVTCVOHBMPXToBUBSPVOE[BCFEBCBSHBJOJGZPVDBOHFUPOF*UTBTIPSUXBMLGSPNUIFUFSNJOVTPGUSBNTBOEXIJDISVOGSPNUIFDFOUSBMTUBUJPO

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DASK4HE#ITY

THROUGHTHERICHLYDECORATED"RAMA:OTA'OLDEN'ATEALONGSIDE$WRW*ERZEGO3T'EORGES#OURTAlNE'OTHICMANSIONNOWADAYSHOMETOTHE ARCHITECTS SOCIETYWITH A STATUETTEOF 3T'EORGE AND THE$RAGONON ITSROOFnACOPYOFTHEORIGINALNOWHOUSEDINTHE.ATIONAL-USEUMINTHE3TARE0RZEDMIECIE SEEP&ROMHEREUL$UGA LEADSDOWNTO THE TOWNHALLWITHSEVERALGABLEDFACADESWORTHSTUDYINGINDETAILnSUCHASTHESIXTEENTHCENTURY$OM&ERBERW &ERBER-ANSION NO AND THE IMPOSING,WI:AMEK ,IONS#ASTLE NO WHERE+ING7ADYSAW )6 ENTERTAINED LOCALDIGNITARIES/NE OF THE FEW HOUSES ALONG THIS STRETCH TO BE OPEN TO THE PUBLIC IS THE$OM5PHAGENA AT UL$UGA 5PHAGEN-ANSION4UESn3AT AMnPM3UN AMnPM Z FORMER HOME OF A LEADING 'DASK MERCHANT DYNASTYREBUILT ANDREFURNISHED IN LATEEIGHTEENTHCENTURY STYLE4HERECEPTIONROOMSONTHElRSTmOORAREPARTICULARLYELEGANTEACHBOASTINGCARVEDWOODENPANELSONADIFFERENTTHEMEONEROOMHASBUTTERmIESANOTHERmOWERSWHILEATHIRDISDECKEDOUTWITHEXOTICBIRDS&URNITUREPAINTINGSANDARECONSTRUCTEDKITCHENINTHEBASEMENTALLHELPPAINTAPICTUREOFTHECOMFORTSOFMERCHANTLIFE

4HETOWNHALL4OPPEDBY A GOLDEN STATUEOF+ING3IGISMUND!UGUSTWHICHDOMINATES THECENTRALSKYLINETHEHUGEANDWELLPROPORTIONEDTOWEROFTHETOWNHALLMAKESAPOWERFULIMPACT/RIGINALLYCONSTRUCTEDINTHELATEFOURTEENTHCENTURYWITHTHETOWERANDSPIREADDEDLATERTHEBUILDINGWASTOTALLYRUINEDDURINGTHELASTWARBUTTHERESTORATIONWASSOSKILFULYOUDHARDLYBELIEVEITh)NALL0OLANDTHEREISNOOTHERSO0OLISHATOWNHALLvOBSERVEDONELOCALWRITERTHOUGHTHEFOREIGNINmUENCESONTHEINTERIORROOMSMIGHTLEADYOUTODISAGREE4HEYNOWHOUSETHE HISTORICAL MUSEUM 4UESn3AT AMnPM 3UN AMnPM Z THEIRLAVISHDECORATIONSALMOSTUPSTAGINGTHEEXHIBITSONDISPLAY&ROMTHEENTRANCEHALLANORNATESTAIRCASELEADSTOTHEUPPERmOORANDTHEMAINCOUNCILCHAMBERTHE2ED2OOM3ALA#ZERWONA)NTERIORDECORATIONWASOBVIOUSLYONETHINGTHATSEVENTEENTHCENTURY'DASKCOUNCILLORSCOULDAGREE ON THE COLOUR RED COMPLETELY DOMINATES THE ROOM4HE CHAMBERSSUMPTUOUSDECORMOSTLYFROMTHELATESIXTEENTHCENTURYISTHEWORKOFVARIOUS CRAFTSMEN ITS FURNITUREWAS DESIGNED BY A$UTCH FUGITIVEWHOBECAMEMUNICIPAL ARCHITECT OF'DASK IN THE S7ILLEM"ART OF'HENT CARVEDTHE ORNATE lREPLACE n NOTE THE 0OLISHLOOKING .EPTUNES IN THE SUPPORTSnWHILEMOST OF THE CEILING ANDWALL PAINTINGSWERE PRODUCED BY ANOTHER$UTCHMAN *OHAN6ERBERMANDE6RIES4HE CENTRAL OVAL CEILING PAINTING BYANOTHER$UTCHMAN)SAACVANDEN"LOCKISTITLED4HE'LORIlCATIONOFTHE5NITYOF'DASKWITH0OLANDANIMAGINARYVIEWOFTHECITYATOPATRIUMPHALARCH4HECOUNCILUSEDTHISCHAMBERINSPRINGANDSUMMERINWINTERTHEYMOVEDINTO THE ADJOINING SMALLER ROOM ENTERED THROUGH THEWOODEN DOOR TO THELEFTOFTHElREPLACE#ONTINUINGAROUNDTHECOURTYARDYOUCOMETOAROOMWITHPAINTEDCEILINGVAULTS SHOWING THE SIGNS OF THE ZODIAC %XHIBITED HERE ARE HAUNTINGPHOTOGRAPHSOFTHECITYINAFTERITHADBEENALMOSTCOMPLETELYmATTENEDBYACOMBINATIONOF!LLIEDAND3OVIETBOMBING/NEmOORUPARETHEARCHIVEROOMSWHEREYOULLlNDAMIXTUREOFPAINTINGSENGRAVINGSANDPRECIOUSRELIGIOUSANDCEREMONIALOBJECTS )N THE FORMERTREASURYTHERESADISPLAYOFCOINSMINTEDAT'DASKOVERTHECENTURIES!FTERALLTHEORNATECARVINGANDPAINTINGTHETOPmOORSPROVIDEACOMPLETECONTRASTWITHRECONSTRUCTIONSOFORDINARYSHOPSANDHOMESINTHE&REE#ITYOF$ANZIGINTHESANDS

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DASK4HE#ITY

$WR!RTUSA)MMEDIATELYEASTOFTHETOWNHALLIS$WR!RTUSA!RTHURS#OURT4UESn3ATAMnPM 3UN AMnPM SOMETIMES CLOSED FOR FUNCTIONS Z EVEN IN ASTREETLINEDWITHMANYlNEMANSIONSTHISONEISIMPRESSIVE2ECENTLYOPENEDTO THEPUBLIC FOLLOWING EXTENSIVE RENOVATIONWORK THE BUILDING ENCAPSULATESSOMEFASCINATINGASPECTSOFTHEHISTORYOFTHECITY)TSORIGINSDATEBACKTOTHEEARLYFOURTEENTHCENTURYAPERIODMARKEDBYAWIDESPREADAWAKENINGOFINTERESTIN"RITISH!RTHURIANLEGENDSAMONGTHE%UROPEANMERCANTILECLASS!TTRACTEDBYTHEIDEALSOF+ING!RTHURSFABLEDCOURTAT#AMELOTMERCHANTSBEGANESTABLISHING THEIROWN LATTERDAYCOURTSWHERE THEYCOULDENTERTAIN IN THECHIVALROUSANDEGALITARIANSPIRITOFTHEIRKNIGHTLYFOREBEARS&OUNDEDINTHE'DASK#OURTGREWRAPIDLYTOBECOMEONEOFTHEMOSTFABULOUSANDWEALTHYIN%UROPE)NITIALLYOCCUPIEDBYTHE"ROTHERHOODOF3T'EORGEBYTHESITHADBECOMEAFOCALPOINTOFTHECITYWITHAGROWINGARRAYOFGUILDANDTRADEBASEDBROTHERHOODSESTABLISHINGTHEIROWNMEETINGBENCHESINTHEMAINHALL4HECOURTSDEVELOPMENTWAS ENCOURAGED ANDlNANCED BY THE CITY AUTHORITIES CREATINGWHATWAS EFFECTIVELY NORTHERN%UROPES lRST NONSECTARIAN NONPOLITICALMEETINGPLACECOMBININGTHEFUNCTIONSOFGUILDHOUSECIVICHALLJUDICIALCOURTANDRECEPTIONCENTREFORFOREIGNGUESTS2EBUILT IN THE S WITH THEMAIN FACADE REWORKED BY THE EVERPRESENT!BRAHAM VAN DEN "LOCK IN THE EARLY SEVENTEENTH CENTURY THE BUILDING WASALMOST COMPLETELY DESTROYED DURING THE.AZI RETREAT IN SPRING -ERCIFULLYHOWEVERMUCHOFTHECOURTSRICHINTERIORWASSPIRITEDAWAYINADVANCEOFTHE3OVIETBOMBARDMENTANDTHUSSAVED/RIGINALFEATURESINTHECAVERNOUSRECONSTRUCTEDMAINHALLANDADJOININGCHAMBERINCLUDESECTIONSOFTHEORIGINALCEILINGINCLUDINGTHESTARREDVAULTINGSUPPORTEDONGRACEFULCOLUMNSANDTHE2ENAISSANCE CERAMIC HEATING OVEN USED TO KEEP THE ASSEMBLED BURGHERS OF'DASKFROMFREEZINGDURINGTHEWINTER)MMEDIATELY OUTSIDE!RTHURS#OURT IS THEWONDERFUL&ONTANNA.EPTUNA.EPTUNE&OUNTAINWITHWATERTRICKLINGFROMTHEVERYTIPSOFTHEGODSTRIDENT#ONTINUINGJUSTTOTHESOUTHYOULLCOMETOTHE:OTA+AMIENICZKA'OLDEN(OUSEANIMPRESSIVE2ENAISSANCEMANSIONNAMEDAFTERTHELUMINOUSGILDINGTHATCOVERSITSELEGANTFOURSTOREYEDFACADE

4HEWATERFRONTANDTHE-UZEUM-ORSKIE4HEARCHWAYSOFTHE"RAMA:IELONA'REEN'ATEAFORMERROYALRESIDENCEFORTHEANNUALVISITOPENDIRECTLYONTOTHEWATERFRONT&ROMTHEBRIDGEOVERTHE-OTAWACANALYOUGETAGOODVIEWTO THERIGHTOF THEOLDGRANARIESON3PICHLERZEISLANDTHEREUSEDTOBEOVEROFTHEMANDTOTHELEFTOFTHEOLDHARBOURQUAYNOWATOURISTHANGOUTANDLOCALPROMENADE(ALFWAY DOWN THEWATERFRONT IS THEMASSIVE AND LARGELY ORIGINAL lFTEENTHCENTURYURAW'DASKI'DASK#RANETHEBIGGESTINMEDIEVAL%UROPE)TSPART OF THE-UZEUM-ORSKIE -ARITIME-USEUM-AYn3EPT DAILY AMnPM/CTn!PRIL4UESn3UNAMnPMZ PER SECTIONORZ FOR ALLWHICHSPRAWLS ACROSS BOTH SIDES OF THE RIVER -OTAWA )NSIDE THE lFTEENTHCENTURYCRANE %UROPES OLDEST AS WELL AS THE MASSIVE LIFTING GEAR USED TO UNLOADGOODSATTHEHARBOURSIDEISANEXHIBITIONDESCRIBINGPORT LIFEINTHEPROSPEROUSSIXTEENTHTOEIGHTEENTHCENTURIES*USTACROSSTHEROADISAPACKEDDISPLAYOFBOATSFROMALLOVERTHEWORLDINCLUDINGAN%NGLISHCORACLE.ATIVE!MERICANBIRCHBARKCANOES6IETNAMESEBASKETBOATSAND0OLYNESIANOUTRIGGERS!CROSS THE-OTAWA n THE SHORT BOAT RIDE IS INCLUDED IN THE ALLIN TICKETnTHEMAINSECTIONOFTHEMUSEUMISHOUSEDINTHREE2ENAISSANCEGRANARIESKNOWN AS THEh0ANNAv 6IRGINh-IED%v #OPPER ANDh/LIWSKIv /LIWA

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DASK4HE#ITY

(ERE THERE ARE EXTENSIVE DISPLAYS ON 0OLANDS HISTORY AS A SEAFARING NATIONSWEEPINGRIGHTTHROUGHFROMTHEEARLIEST3LAVSETTLEMENTSALONGTHE7ISATOTHE LATE TWENTIETH CENTURY TAKING IN THE SEVENTEENTHCENTURY POWER STRUGGLES AROUND THE"ALTIC ANEXHIBITONUNDERWATER ARCHEOLOGYANDNUMEROUSASTONISHINGLY DETAILEDMODELS OF SHIPS ALONG THEWAY/N THE GROUND mOORYOULLALSOlNDAHAULOF3WEDISHCANNONSRECOVEREDBYMUSEUMDIVERSANDONTHETOPmOORTHERESADISPLAYOFMARITIMEPAINTINGSnSOMEOFWHICHAREOUTSTANDINGOTHERSPRETTYROPEY"ACKOUTON THEQUAYSIDE IS THE STURDYLOOKING3ODEK THElRSTSTEAMSHIPBUILTIN'DASKAFTER7ORLD7AR))9OUCANINVESTIGATEJUSTABOUTEVERYPARTOFTHESHIPINCLUDINGTHEBOILERROOMANDBRIDGE!LL THE STREETS BACK INTO THE TOWN FROM THE WATERFRONT ARE WORTH EXPLORING.EXTUPFROM"RAMA:IELONAISULICA#HLEBNICKAREACHEDTHROUGHTHElFTEENTHCENTURY"RAMA#HLEBNICKA "READ'ATE BUILT DURING THE ERA OF4EUTONIC RULE4HE$OM!NGIELSKI %NGLISH(OUSE BUILT IN AND THELARGESTHOUSEINTHECITYATTHETIMEISAREMINDEROFTHESTRONG2EFORMATIONERATRADINGCONNECTIONSWITH"RITAIN)TSTHEORNATEGREYBUILDINGONTHELEFTAFEWHOUSESDOWNASYOUWALKAWAYFROMTHEWATERFRONTANDNOWCONVERTEDINTOSTUDENTHALLS

+OhCI-ARIACKIANDAROUND2UNNINGPARALLELTOUL#HLEBNICKATOTHENORTHISULICA-ARIACKAACHARMINGLYATMOSPHERICANDMETICULOUSLYRECONSTRUCTEDSTREETOFSPINDLYIRONRAILINGSAND DRAGONFACED GUTTER SPOUTS ITS GABLED TERRACED HOUSES NOWOCCUPIED BYEXPENSIVECLOTHESANDAMBERJEWELLERYSHOPSANDSTYLISHCAFS!TITSWESTERNENDSTANDSTHEGIGANTIC+OCI-ARIACKI3T-ARYS#HURCHREPUTEDLYTHEBIGGESTBRICKCHURCHINTHEWORLD%STIMATESTHATITCOULDlTPEOPLEINSIDEWERESUBSTANTIATEDDURINGTHEEARLYDAYSOFMARTIALLAWWHENHUGECROWDSCRAMMEDTHECOLDWHITEWASHEDINTERIOR/VERALLTHEBUILDINGISBEGINNINGTOLOSESOMEOFITSAUSTERITYTHANKSTOTHEGRADUALRETURNOFELEMENTSOFORIGINALDECORATIONREMOVEDTOTHE.ATIONAL-USEUMIN7ARSAWAFTERTHEWAR4HESOUTHAISLEISDOMINATEDBYACOPYOF THEMIRACULOUS-ADONNAOF THE'ATESOF$AWNFROM7ILNO NOW6ILNIUS IN,ITHUANIA A CITYWHOSE0OLISH INHABITANTSWEREENCOURAGEDTOEMIGRATEINnMANYOFTHEMENDINGUPIN'DASKWHERETHEY REPLACED THE DEPARTING 'ERMAN POPULATION "ESIDE IT THERES A MEMORIAL TO THE0OLISH(OME!RMYlGHTERSWHO LIBERATED7ILNO INnONLYTO BE ROUNDED UP AND DEPORTED BY THE2ED!RMY4HE HIGH ALTAR TOTALLYRECONSTRUCTEDAFTERTHEWARISAPOWERFULSIXTEENTHCENTURYTRIPTYCHFEATURINGA#ORONATION OF THE6IRGIN/F THE CHAPELS SCATTERED ROUND THE CHURCH TWOOFTHEMOSTSTRIKINGARETHE#HAPELOF6IRGINSWITHATORTURED'OTHICCRUCIlXnAPPARENTLYTHEARTISTAPPARENTLYNAILEDHISSONINLAWTOACROSSASAMODELnAND3T!NNES#HAPELCONTAININGTHEWOODEN"EAUTIFUL-ADONNAOF'DASK FROMAROUND! CURIOSITY IS THE RECONSTRUCTEDlFTEENTHCENTURYASTRONOMICAL CLOCKWHICH TELLS NOT ONLY THE DAYMONTH AND YEAR BUT THEWHOLESAINTSCALENDARANDTHEPHASESOFTHEMOONWHENCOMPLETEDINITWASTHEWORLDSTALLESTCLOCK)F YOURE FEELING lTMAKE SURE YOU CLIMB UP THE CHURCH TOWER -ONn3ATAMnPM3UNAMnPMZ4HESTEPSAREGRAPHICALLYDESCRIBEDINTHE0OLISHGUIDEONSALEAT THECHURCHWHICHWARNSAGAINSTANYONEWITHCLAUSTROPHOBIAORHEARTPROBLEMSATTEMPTING THIShCOLD SPELLOFHELLvAShAFTERSTEPSYOULLWISHYOUDGIVENUPSMOKINGAFTERTHATYOUDVISITEDTHECRYPTINSTEADvITWARNS/NAGOODDAYTHEVIEWOVER'DASKANDTHEPLAINSISEXCELLENTFORZPERMINUTEYOUCANHIREBINOCULARS

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DASK4HE#ITY

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DASK%ATINGDRINKINGANDNIGHTLIFE

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DASK%ATINGDRINKINGANDNIGHTLIFE

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DASK%NTERTAINM

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