Trindad and Tobago: Birds and Turtles! June 13 – June 23, 2017

Carlos Sanchez and local guides (arranged through Caligo Ventures/Naturalist Journeys LLC) lead this eleven-day, ten-night trip to the beautiful islands of Trinidad and Tobago, beginning and ending in Port of Spain, Trinidad. This trip involves ten full days of birding, and is designed for intermediate to advanced birders.

Spend six nights at the world-renowned Asa Wright Nature Centre, where you can see 40 species of birds before breakfast from the famous veranda while you sip coffee locally grown on the estate. See Oilbirds at the exclusive but accessible Dunston Cave, watch manakins on their leks and observe calling Trinidad Bearded Bellbirds perched in the canopy. Venture from the Centre to see the magic of thousands of Scarlet Ibis soaring overhead at sunset to roosts at Caroni Marsh and explore the legendary Nariva Swamp and Bush Bush Forest Sanctuary for grassland and wetland species. Overnight at Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel in Grand Riviere for Trindad Piping-Guan and intimate views of nesting Leatherback Turtles before venturing on to Tobago to highlight new species including Rufous-vented Chachalaca, White-tailed Sabrewing and nesting seabird colonies accessed by glass-bottom boat. Spend three nights at the beautiful Blue Waters Inn.

ITINERARY

Tues., June 13: Arrive and explore at the Asa Wright Nature Centre Arrive at the very modern Piarco International Airport in Port of Spain (POS). Centre guides meet all flights, delivering you from this bustling capital city to the comfort and seclusion of the Asa Wright Nature Centre & Lodge, about an hour’s drive. You immediately experience the lush rain forests of the verdant Arima Valley from the Centre’s famed veranda. The Centre’s seemingly untamed forests are the perfect place to rejuvenate and learn more about Trinidad’s abundant natural heritage.

Birding from the veranda of the Asa Wright Nature Centre is one of the world’s most invigorating ornithological experiences. Hummingbirds perch quietly at arm’s length and buzz past your face like fighter jets mid-dogfight. Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Tufted

Coquette, Barred Antshrike, and both Purple and Green Honeycreeper are among the species seen at flowers, fresh fruits, and feeders below. Scanning the valley, you find Double-toothed Kite, Scaled Pigeon, or Black-tailed Tityra in towering trees on the horizon as their inhabitants’ raucous calls echo in the valley. Watch the sky for soaring Black and Turkey Vultures, Common Black, Gray-lined, White, and Zone-tailed Hawks. Channel-billed Toucans and Bearded Bellbirds dot the canopy. Birding & Wildlife Highlights Commonly Found at the Feeders: White-chested Emerald; White-necked Jacobin; Blue-chinned Sapphire; Rufous-breasted and Little Hermits; Copper-rumped Hummingbird; Crested Oropendola; Blue- gray, Palm, White-lined, Silver-beaked, and Turquoise Tanagers; Barred Antshrike; Tufted Coquette; both Purple and Green Honeycreepers; and Violaceous Euphonia.

Wed., June 14: Introductory Walk into AWNC’s Rainforest & Optional Night Birds Excursion Morning begins with the raucous calls of Crested Oropendola and a host of other exotic sounds. Pick a spot on the veranda and spy as many as 20 to 30 life birds before breakfast! A Centre naturalist is on hand to identify species and provide insight into fascinating creatures that include Agouti and Tegu Lizards. Coffee and tea are available at 6AM, just as dawn breaks. First arrivals to the feeders often include the endemic Trinidad Motmot, Cocoa and Spectacled Thrushes, White-lined, Blue- gray and Palm Tanagers, alongside the energetic Bananaquit. Busy feeders at eye level attract dazzling White-chested Emerald, Blue-chinned Sapphire, White-necked Jacobin and Copper-rumped Hummingbird. Below you may find Ruddy Ground-Dove, Gray-fronted Dove, affable Red-rumped Agouti, and perhaps a large Golden Tegu Lizard.

On a morning introductory walk, you should see elegant Green-backed and Guianan Trogons, Channel-billed Toucan, Chestnut Woodpecker, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, and Turquoise and Bay-headed Tanagers - just a few of many species.

A small garden is the favored haunt of the petite Tufted Coquette; the adjacent hedge often lures Black-throated Mango. Thin leaved fruiting Trema trees along the trail attract Forest Elaenia, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher, Bay-headed and Turquoise Tanagers, and the striking Violaceous Euphonia. Highlights are the lekking areas of White-bearded and Golden-headed Manakins, both very close to the trail. En

route to the leks, look for Green Hermit in a large stand of flowering Torch Ginger and search bamboo that often attracts Silver-beaked Tanager and Yellow Oriole. We also find species not frequently seen from the veranda including White-necked Thrush, Rufous-breasted Wren, White-flanked Antwren, and Long-billed Gnatwren. Eventually, we reach several Bearded Bellbird territories; you hear them long before you see them. The bellbird’s call is one of the loudest in the world. Their distinctive “bonk” echoes in the forest, creating a thrilling challenge for birders. Uncover smaller winged gems including dazzling Morphos and owl butterflies, also known as Caligos. Afternoon rains may draw out hundreds of peculiar land crabs. The Centre’s dining room overlooks the rainforest, so birding continues while enjoying local cuisine during meals. We leave the Centre about 3.00pm, taking a hot dinner with us. Our first stop, while there is still good birding light is a small patch of Moriche Palms within a disused airfield. Here, while sipping our rum punch, we will be specifically looking out for Fork-tailed Palm-Swifts, Sulphury Flycatchers and, with patience and a little luck, Moriche Orioles. We then drive a short distance to the north and enter the nearby Aripo Livestock Station. Here we enjoy our picnic dinner and, after dark, very slowly drive the gritted tracks seeking out both White-tailed Nightjars and Common Pauraque. Finding Tropical Screech-Owl can sometimes take a bit more perseverance but we stand an excellent chance. There is also the possibility of Barn and even Spectacled Owls in the area. We return to the Centre shortly after 9.00pm. Morning Birding Highlights: Trinidad Motmot; both Cocoa and Spectacled Thrushes; Gray-fronted Dove; White-bearded and Golden-headed Manakins; Green-backed and Guianan Trogons; Channel-billed Toucan; Chestnut Woodpecker; Rufous-browed Peppershrike; both Turquoise and Bay-headed Tanagers; Green Hermit; Tufted Coquette; Black-throated Mango; Forest Elaenia; Ochre-bellied Flycatcher; Yellow Oriole; White-necked Thrush; Rufous-breasted Wren; White-flanked Antwren; Long- billed Gnatwren; and Bearded Bellbird. Night Bird Outing Possibilities: Fork-tailed Palm-Swift; Sulphury Flycatcher; Moriche Oriole (extremely rare); White-tailed Nightjar; Common Pauraque; Common Potoo; Tropical Screech-Owl; Barn Owl; and Spectacled Owl (if you’re lucky).

Thur., June 15: Aripo Savannah & Arena Forest / Night Walk at Asa Wright Nature Center

Today is an early start, with breakfast served at 6:30AM in the dining room. Be sure to double-check times with your guide. A remnant of a once major lowland habitat, the seasonally-wet Aripo Savannah is surrounded by sugar cane fields. Today you explore the tropical birds unique to this habitat, as well as the distinctive flora that has adapted to the savannah’s harsh conditions — alternating from wet to dry. You then embark on a short drive to the Evergreen Seasonal Forest habitat of the Arena Forest. Here you enjoy lunch and search out more target birds. Your return mid-afternoon so you have time to enjoy Tea Time on the verandah and great bird viewing until sunset. Each evening, Centre naturalists provide optional evening talks, or perhaps a walk to find insects, reptiles, Ferruginous Pygmy Owl and even sleeping birds! Birding Highlights: Plumbeous Kite; Grey-headed Kite; Shiny Cowbird; Giant Cowbird; Yellow-rumped Cacique; Blue-black Grassquit; Grassland Yellow-Finch; Moriche Oriole (extremely rare); Fork-tailed Palm-Swift; Sulphury Flycatcher; Savannah Hawk; both Striped and Little Cuckoos; Ruby Topaz Hummingbird; White-tailed Goldenthroat; Green-rumped Parrotlet; both Crimson-crested and Lineated Woodpeckers; White-throated Spadebill; Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant.

Fri., June 16: Nariva Swamp, Atlantic Coast & Monkeys at Bush Bush Today’s highlight is the remarkable Nariva Swamp on Trinidad’s eastern coast. Nariva is the largest freshwater herbaceous swamp in Trinidad. The Nariva River reaches the sea here, so freshwater environments are comprised of herbaceous swamp and swamp forest lined with mangroves. Along its edges one finds “palm islands,” where the tall Moriche Palm is common alongside the unique mangrove community which can reach 80 feet. We depart AWNC for the lowlands where Great Kiskadee and Tropical Kingbird regularly perch on overhead utility wires, Carib Grackle abound and Short-tailed Swifts are the commonest aerial feeder. Below the Northern Range foothills lies the Aripo Agriculture Research Station. The countryside and rough pasture creates the opportunity to seek out a number of new species including Pinneated Bittern, Cocoi Heron, Savannah Hawk, Gray-headed Kite, Yellow-headed Caracara, Wattled Jacana, Southern Lapwing, Green-rumped Parrotlet, Fork-tailed Palm-Swift and White-winged Swallow. White-headed Marsh and Pied

Water-Tyrants, and Yellow-chinned Spinetail often rattle throatily from the grasses while Red-breasted Blackbird add a flash of color. This is the only site where we reliably find Grassland Yellow-Finch and possibly Ruddy-breasted Seedeater. We drive on for an hour to the Atlantic coast, eating a picnic lunch on the beach at Manzanilla. Magnificent Frigatebird and Brown Pelican are easily found here. We then drive through scenic “Coconut Alley”, where nearly a million coconut palms line the road. Spot raptors sheltering from the midday sun. We enjoy Common Black-Hawk, Yellow-headed Caracara and Savannah Hawk and have a chance of finding Pearl Kite, Gray-lined Hawk and Crested Caracara. A brief stop near roadside mangroves may uncover Plumbeous Kite from February onwards, American Pygmy Kingfisher, Black-crested Antshrike, Silvered Antbird, and Brown-crested Flycatcher. We enter Nariva Swamp, searching for Pinnated Bittern, Black-bellied Whistling-Duck, Purple Gallinule, and Yellow-hooded Blackbird. Here, e seek out the elusive White-tailed Goldenthroat. Long-winged Harrier occasionally quarters the reeds and we may find Yellow-crowned Parrot and Red-bellied Macaw.

We end the day with a walk into the forests of Bush Bush Forest Sanctuary, searching for Red Howler and White-faced Capuchin Monkeys. Birding is also good here and we may discover other mammals such as Prehensile-tailed Porcupines. In 1999, a reintroduction effort to restore Blue and Yellow Macaw began here and it remains a success. After a satisfying day, we arrive late back to the Centre

and enjoy dinner followed by free time to relax or perhaps a drink on the veranda. Birding Highlights at the Aripo Ag Station: Great Kiskadee; Tropical Kingbird; Carib Grackle; Short-tailed Swift; Cocoi Heron; Savannah Hawk; Gray-headed Kite; Yellow-headed Caracara; Wattled Jacana; Southern Lapwing; Green-rumped Parrotlet; Fork-tailed Palm-Swift; White-winged Swallow; White- headed Marsh-Tyrant; Pied Water-Tyrant; Yellow-chinned Spinetail; Red-breasted Meadowlark; Grassland Yellow-Finch; and Ruddy-breasted Seedeater Gazing out to Sea: Magnificent Frigatebird; Brown Pelican South Towards Nariva: Common Black-Hawk; Yellow-headed and Crested Caracaras; Savannah Hawk; Pearl Kite; Gray-lined Hawk; Plumbeous Kite; Green and American Pygmy Kingfishers; Black-crested Antshrike; Silvered Antbird; Brown-crested Flycatcher; Pinnated Bittern; Black-bellied Whistling-Duck; Purple Gallinule; Yellow-hooded Blackbird; White-tailed Goldenthroat; Long-winged Harrier; Yellow- crowned Parrot; and Red-bellied, Blue and Yellow Macaws

Sat., June 17: Rare Oilbirds & the Scarlet Ibis of Caroni Marsh This morning we visit Dunston Cave, a beautiful riparian grotto located on the sanctuary, to view a breeding colony of the fascinating nocturnal Oilbird. This is one of the most accessible Oilbird caves in the entire world and access is limited to protect this rare species. On the short, but steep, hike to the Cave, you could see some of the secretive birds of the deep forest such as Red-crowned Ant-Tanagers, Black-faced Antthrushes, White-bellied Antbirds, and Gray-throated Leaftossers. Mid-afternoon, we depart for the famous Caroni National Park, a very specialized mangrove forest system that contains several genera and species of mangroves, showing classic examples of plant adaptation in this unique brackish water community.

We seek out some of its more specialized denizens such as Anhinga, Striated Heron, White-cheeked Pintail, Large-billed Tern, Pied Water-tyrant, Bicolored Conebill, Masked (Red-capped) Cardinal, and the mysterious-sounding Common Potoo. Our day ends with the spectacular flight of hundreds of Scarlet Ibis returning to their mangrove roosts at dusk, truly one of the world’s most dramatic natural moments.

Bird Highlights on the Oilbird Excursion: Oilbird; Red-crowned Ant-Tanager; Black-faced Antthrush; White-bellied Antbird; and Gray-throated Leaftosser Birding Highlights on the Caroni Outing: Long-winged Harrier; Yellow-hooded Blackbird; Bicolored Conebill; Masked (Red-capped) Cardinal; Straight-billed Woodcreeper; Green-throated Mango; Northern Waterthrush; Anhinga; Striated Heron; White-cheeked Pintail; Large-billed Tern; Pied Water-Tyrant; Black-crested Antshrike; Common Potoo; and Scarlet Ibis. Sun., June 18: Birding Trinidad’s Northern Range Today we take a scenic all-day excursion on the Blanchisseuse Road high into mountain areas above AWNC. We navigate through Trinidad’s Northern Range, reaching elevations of up to 2,200 feet, as we experience a broad array of habitats. We make frequent stops for birding. En route we look for Swallow-tailed Kite, Common Black Hawk, Bat Falcon, and Collared Trogon. Bright blooms adorn lush canopies attracting nectar feeding birds. An imposing Ornate Hawk-Eagle may ride currents overhead as Channel-billed Toucan fly between tall trees in village gardens. There is a small chance of seeing Trinidad’s most sought after endemic - the Trinidad Piping Guan.

We have lunch at Brasso Seco, a picturesque mountain village, where members of a local cooperative have built a covered ramada next to a small handicrafts store. Enjoy local cuisine with a bird’s eye view of the forest, as our sightings continue. We continue to bird our way through the mountains, descending to the small village of Morne le Croix. Here we enjoy afternoon tea and cakes while watching parrots pass through on the way to their roosts. Other species may include Short-tailed Hawk, Streaked and Euler’s Flycatchers, and Rufous-tailed Jacamar. Blue-headed Parrot, Lilac-tailed Parrotlet, and Orange-winged Parrot are on the wing.

Tall trees make excellent perches for Collared Trogon, Golden-olive, Red-rumped and Chestnut Woodpeckers. Calls alert us to finding Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Stripe- breasted Spinetail, or Cocoa and Plain-Brown Woodcreepers. The verdant gardens of village homes attract Dusky-capped, Slaty-capped, and Rufous-breasted Wrens, Long-billed Gnatwren, Golden-fronted Greenlet, Speckled and Hepatic Tanagers, and noisy Yellow-rumped Caciques.

Along with rich avian life, we also have the opportunity to examine the strange world of leaf-cutter and army ants, as well as photograph butterflies, beautiful orchids, and other tropical flora. Birding Highlights Northern Range: Swallow-tailed Kite; Common Black Hawk; Bat Falcon; Collared Trogon; Ornate Hawk- Eagle; Channel-billed Toucan; Trinidad Piping Guan; Short-tailed Hawk; both Streaked and Euler’s Flycatchers; Rufous-tailed Jacamar; Blue-headed Parrot; Lilac-tailed Parrotlet; Orange-winged Parrot; Collared Trogon; Golden-olive; Red-rumped and Chestnut Woodpeckers; Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl; Stripe-breasted Spinetail; both Cocoa and Plain-Brown Woodcreepers; Dusky-capped, Slaty-capped Flycatchers; Rufous-breasted Wrens; Long-billed Gnatwren; Golden-fronted Greenlet; both Speckled and Hepatic Tanagers; Yellow-rumped Cacique Mon., June 19: Morning Birding / On to Grand Riviere This morning we all gather on the veranda for the amazing dawn parade of species, followed by breakfast. After, choose to sleuth after some species missing from our bird list with our expert guides, or walk a new trail with Centre naturalists to learn more about general natural history and plant life of the Northern Range. We pack up, have lunch and drive to the scenic Northeast Coast of Trinidad, about a three hour drive. People describe part of our route as the “Oregon Coast of the tropics” and we take a break with birding at an historic lighthouse.

Endemic Trinidad Piping Guans, known locally as Pawi, lure us to this side of the island. In Grande Riviere, you uncover this critically endangered bird’s final stronghold. Experts estimate there may be fewer than 300 left on Earth. For part of the year Grand Riviere’s beaches are home to the world’s densest congregation of nesting Leatherback Sea Turtles. On some nights, hundreds of these gigantic turtles populate the beach. Most nest

between April and July, however they’re also likely to be seen from March through August, and occasionally they are spotted at other times of the year. During turtle season you could see dozens of nesting Leather- backs overnight. Upon arrival in Grande Riviere, we buy our turtle permits (about $16 – supports the local community non-profit) from the local nonprofit, which has an office right next door to your hotel. In the evenings they guide you out to the beach to witness the graceful and moving sight. No flash photography is allowed but with luck there will still be some of these giants on the beach at dawn, so you can photograph them. From May onward, there should be hatchlings emerging; if so, you can see the drama of the babies’ race to the sea in spite of vultures and frigatebirds. As we arrive at our hotel, relax and enjoy gourmet local cuisine while dining alfresco at the eccentric and relaxing Mt. Plaisir Estate Hotel. Our rooms overlook the beach, so you enjoy a perfect view of nesting turtles. Leave your patio door open at night and drift off to sleep as waves crash on the beach below.

Tues., Nov. 20 Morning in Search of Piping Guan / Short Flight to Tobago

This morning we head out early to spend time, we hope, with Trinidad Piping Guans. We have an excellent chance of doing so. Once we find and observe them, we turn to other exciting finds that could include Gray-headed and Plumbeous Kites, Short-tailed Nighthawk, Crimson-crested Woodpecker, Silvered and White-bellied Antbirds, Green-backed and Guianan Trogons, Channel-billed Toucan, Black-tailed Tityra and Trinidad Euphonia.

After an early morning of birding, return to the lodge for brunch, and pack up to head to the airport for a short flight to Tobago.

Tobago is distinctly Caribbean in feel, in contrast to Trinidad’s more bustling pace of life and multi- cultural history. Tobago’s pace is that of island life, and its climate is drier and windier than Trinidad. Its geography is stunning, with rugged coastlines, offshore islands, and a chain of mountains bisecting the island.

After our arrival, we make a few quick birding stops for shorebirds, herons, egrets, and ducks, such as the White-cheeked Pintail. Have binoculars handy and wear closed-toed shoes. The drive to the hotel is a little over an hour and follows scenic shoreline. We check into the picturesque, beachfront Blue Waters Inn late-afternoon. The Inn is situated on 46 acres of pristine waterfront and gardens backed by dry forests. The world’s oldest legally protected nature reserve - established in 1776 - is a short drive away and is part of our tour. At Blue Waters Inn, we have the entire Batteaux Bay to ourselves. Warm tropical waters are just out your door, and there is a pool in the bar area. Blue Waters Inn is equipped for great seaside experiences including optional swimming, kayaking, snorkeling, and diving. Enjoy a welcome drink at the always-popular Shipwreck Bar. Blue Waters Inn’s restaurant feature dishes include fresh caught lobster and kingfish, a crisp coconut shrimp salad, and distinctly Caribbean flying fish wraps.

Common Tobago Species en Route to Blue Waters Inn: White-cheeked Pintail; Short-tailed Swifts; Trinidad Motmot; Yellow-crowned Night-Heron; Green Kingfisher; and Spectacled Caiman Common at Blue Waters Inn: Black-faced Grassquit, Rufous-vented Chachalaca, Trinidad Motmot, Red- crowned Woodpecker, Magnificent Frigatebirds, Brown Pelican, Ruddy Turnstone. If out walking, White- fringed Antwren.

Wed., June 21: Little Tobago Island’s Birds & Glass Bottom Boat Tour

This morning, we depart from the dock for Little Tobago Island, one of the nation’s most significant wildlife sanctuaries with experts from Frank’s Glassbottom Boat Tours. Upon landing, we explore the island

looking for Chivi Vireo, Brown-crested Flycatcher, and Pale-vented Pigeon. We walk up to lookouts over steep cliffs, fabulous for viewing seabird activity. Depending on the time of year, we discover nesting colonies of Red-billed Tropicbird, Red-footed and Brown Boobies, or later in the year, Sooty and Noddy Terns. As we return on our covered glass-bottom boat, watch for Leatherback and Hawksbill Sea Turtles. While corals here have suffered from bleaching, fish are still abundant, and those that wish can elect to snorkel on the way back. Birding Highlights Little Tobago Island: Brown Noddy; Red-billed Tropicbird; both Red-footed and Brown Boobies; Sooty Tern; Chivi Vireo; Brown-crested Flycatcher; Pale-vented Pigeon; and Scaly-naped Pigeon.

Thurs., June 22: Tobago’s Landmark Rainforest Preserve

We meet our guide for a drive high into the mountains at the historic Tobago Main Ridge Forest Preserve, the world’s oldest legally protected forest. Scientific American once said that “the protection of Tobago’s forest was the first act in the modern environmental movement.” Tobago’s mountain forests are home to 210 species of birds. On a trail into the forested interior, we look for a number of elusive species, including White-tailed Sabrewing, a large hummingbird once thought to be

extinct. Sabrewings were rediscovered at the Preserve in the 1960s. We also seek out Blue-backed Manakin, Yellow-legged Thrush and other Tobago specialties, including Red-crowned Woodpecker and White-fringed Antwren. Return to enjoy lunch, the beach and a final dinner with traveling companions. Birding Highlights Gilpin Trace: Trindad Motmot; Collared Trogon; White-tailed Sabrewing; Common Black Hawk, Blue-backed Manakin; Yellow-legged Thrush; Red- crowned Woodpecker; White-fringed Antwren; Plain Antvireo; White-throated Spadebill; Olivaceous Wood- creeper; and Stripe-breasted Spinetail

Fri., June 23: Departure We return to Port of Spain in Trinidad and say our goodbyes. Costs $2,990.00 per person double occupancy, $470.00 single supplement. Cost includes transportation (including round-trip flight to Tobago), meals, lodging and guides. Not included is round-trip airfare to Port-of-Spain, Trinidad, tips, laundry costs and other incidental expenses. All trip participants are responsible for their own personal travel insurance to cover accidents, medical expenses or loss of personal belongings. Trip cancellation/interruption insurance is strongly recommended. All participants must indicate upon booking any medical conditions that could limit participation in the tour. Reservation Requirements: To request a trip application, contact Brian Rapoza, Tropical Audubon Society Field Trip Coordinator, at fieldtrips@tropicalaudubon.org. To reserve your space, a deposit of $500.00 must be received within 30 days of booking. Make out a check to Tropical Audubon Society and mail, along with a completed trip application to: Brian Rapoza, TAS Field Trip Coordinator 14525 SW 88 Street, J-207, Miami, FL 33186

All participants must indicate upon booking any medical conditions that could limit participation in the tour. Balance of payment must be received by March 31, 2017 to ensure your reservation. No refunds for cancellations after March 31, 2017, unless your space is filled. Again, trip cancellation/interruption insurance is highly recommended.

Photo Credits: Asa Wright Nature Centre Veranda, Peg Abbott (PA); Channel-billed Toucan, Chris West; Tufted Coquette, Mukesh Ramdass (MR); Thick-billed Euphonia, Greg Smith (GS); White-bearded Manakin (Bob Behrstock www.naturewideimages.com, (BB); Pinnated Bittern, Dave Ramlal; Howler Monkeys, Howard Topoff, Oilbird (GS); Scarlet Ibis in flight (PA), Chestnut-headed Oropendola (PA); Toucans through the Lens, Ray Mendez, Trinidad Piping Guan (MR), Red-billed Tropicbird, Gerold Morrison; Purple Honeycreeper shaking, Janice Petko.