JACKET

By Sunil Talekar

IMPORTANT PARTS OF JACKETS

LAPELCOLLAR

SHOULDER PAD

BOUND POCKETVENT

BREAK POINT

JET POCKET

TYPES OF LAPELS

PEAK LAPEL

STANDARD

WIDE NOTCH

NARROW

JACKET KEY ELEMENTS

PEAK LAPEL

A peaked lapel is defined by the lapel edges pointing up and towards the shoulder. Traditionally, this lapel was seen in very formal garments like the morning coat or the tailcoat. In modern times this look is (unfairly?) constrained to the realm of executive offices and formal events. You can’t really dress down a peaked lapel. Whether it’s on a double breasted suit or not, you’ll stand out from the crowd. If you choose to widen the lapel and then go peaked, well, now you are really making a statement.

PEAK LAPEL

PEAK LAPELONLY WEAR A WIDE LAPEL IF:Your body frame is large (overweight or very muscular and broad) as you need your lapel to also be wide to maintain the proportions of your body frame.

DON’T WEAR A WIDE LAPEL IF: You have a skinny/narrow body frame as the standard and wide lapels will not be proportionate with your body frame and your appearance will look odd.You are a very large (overweight or extremely broad and muscular) as the narrow lapels will not be proportionate with your body frame and your appearance will look exceptionally odd.

THE ONLY TIE YOU CAN WEAR WITH WIDE LAPELS IS A:Wide widthed tie (not a skinny/narrow or standard width) as your tie MUST be in proportion to the width of your lapels and general body frame.

NARROW The notched lapel is the venerable standard in men’s suiting. It’s traditional yet contemporary and will be found on jackets ranging from your weekend sportcoat to your go-to business suit.

By definition, the notched lapel is categorized by a ‘notch’ where the jacket collar meets the lapel at a 75 – 90 deg angle.

If you have one suit, make it a notched lapel, simply because this style is the most versatile. You can wear it to work, to the bar, to an interview, just about anywhere you like.

NARROW ONLY WEAR A NARROW LAPEL IF:You are very skinny and have narrow shoulders as the narrow lapels will be in proportion with your narrow body frame.

DON’T WEAR A NARROW LAPEL IF: You have an average/standard build in which you are not skinny but you’re also not overly broad and muscular as the narrow lapels will not be proportionate with your body frame and your appearance will look odd.

THE ONLY TIE YOU CAN WEAR WITH NARROW LAPELS IS A:Narrow width tie (not a standard or overly wide width) as your tie MUST be in proportion to the width of your lapels and general body frame.

SHAWLShawl Lapel – Characterized by a rounded edge, the shawl lapel is most common on dinner jackets / tuxedos (for those nights you plan on taking down a couple of Oscars or upstaging the groomsmen at a friend’s wedding).

Body Type (who should wear it): Most body types. Not recommended if you have an extremely round face or body as the rounded lapel will accentuate those features by mimicking it. Instead, opt for a peak or notch lapel with more jagged lines instead.

SHAWL

STANDARD

WIDE NOTCH

WIDE NOTCH

SB AND DB JACKET

SB AND DB JACKETSingle vs. Double Breasted Suit Jackets

Presented By: Sunil Talekar

Single Breasted1, 2 or 3 buttons

2 Buttons most commonNotch, Peak or Shawl

LapelsNotch lapels most

common

Double Breasted4, 6 or 8 buttons

6 Buttons most commonPeak or Shawl Lapels

Peak lapels most common

Sb and db jacket

Englishcut

American

Italian

English

They have slightly narrower and defined shoulders with higher armhole.

These suits are cut closer to the body.

Also called British Traditional

Coats have two side vents and they can be single or double-breasted

These suits are cut closer to the body.

English cut

English cut

English cutSHOULDERS: VERY PADDED

LAPELS:WIDE , NOTCH

WAIST:TAPERED, THIN

POCKETS:NO FLAP, LOOK LIKE “SLASHES”

VENTS: TWO VENTS AT THE BACK

PROS:STYLISH, AUTHORITATIVE, FITS MANY SHAPES

American cutSHOULDERS: less PADDED

LAPELS:WIDE , NOTCH

WAIST: straight lines, THIN

POCKETS:NO FLAP

VENTS: single went in the back

PROS:STYLISH, AUTHORITATIVE, FITS MANY SHAPES

Italian cutSHOULDERS: less overall padding

LAPELS:WIDE , NOTCH

WAIST: jackets have pronounced V-shape

POCKETS:NO FLAP

VENTS: single went in the back

PROS:STYLISH, AUTHORITATIVE, FITS MANY SHAPES

TYPES OF JACKETS

WEDDING SUIT

TUXEDO

BLAZER

BUSINESS SUIT

CASUAL JACKET

SPORTS JACKET

TWEED JACKET

TYPES OF JACKETSWEDDING SUIT

TYPES OF JACKETS

WEDDING SUIT

TYPES OF JACKETS

TUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDO

TUXEDO

TUXEDO

TYPES OF JACKETS

TUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDOTUXEDO

TUXEDOThe tuxedo is a standard in American formal attire and is a ubiquitous symbol of celebration and special occasion for men of any and all levels of society.

It is the quintessential men’s attire for formal affairs and an obvious choice for all but the most formal of weddings, galas, balls, formals, and high school proms.

The earliest references to a dress coat substitute in America are from the summer and fall of 1886 and, like the British references from this time, vary between waist-length mess-jacket style and the conventional suit jacket style.

The most famous reference originates from Tuxedo Park, an upstate New York countryside enclave for Manhattan’s wealthiest citizens.

TUXEDO

TUXEDO

TUXEDO

A Tuxedo (also known as a dinner jacket or dinner suit) is a very specific

type of suit for special occasions.

This suit is required when an invitation specifies Black Tie dress code.

It is a formal evening suit that is distinguished by the following details

.Satin on the jackets lapels.Satin Covered Buttons.

.Satin on the jackets lapels.Satin Covered Buttons.

A Satin Stripe down the edge of the trousers.Traditionally a ‘black tie’ Tuxedo is black or midnight blue. However at Tailor Made London you can choose from a wide range of fabrics to choose the perfect colour for you. We also provide white dinner jackets for ‘white tie’ events.

TYPES OF JACKETS

TWEED JACKET

One of the most desirable wool textiles in the world, Harris Tweed, is produced in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland; on the one island with two names, separated only by a mountain range - the islands of Lewis and Harris.

TWEED JACKET

The story begins with pure virgin wools which are blended together to gain the advantages of their unique qualities and characteristics

Although the wool used to make Harris Tweed is principally taken from flocks reared on the mainland of Scotland, in the early summer the island communities join together to round up and shear the local sheep to add their locally reared wool to the mainland clip

BLAZER

TYPES OF JACKETS

BLAZERBlazers are also a type of sports jacket. They are traditionally composed of navy wool with metal buttons. However, more casual blazers may be made of cotton with plastic buttons. Dressier blazers will have sharp padded shoulders more casual blazers will have soft shoulders. Blazer pockets are typically a flapless patch pocket,

BUSINESS SUIT

REAL BUSINESS SUITS COME IN THREE COLORS: BLACK, BLUE, AND GREY.

BUSINESS SUIT

a plain matching jacket and trousers (or skirt), as worn by office workers.

A business suit is, in its most basic form, a jacket and pants set made from matching material.

It's thought to have originated from country wear first worn in England.

It should be noted that in the United Kingdom (UK), suit pants are known as trousers.

The business suit was once only a man's garment

Women's business suits may feature a skirt rather than pants.

Business skirts must never be too short; they may be about knee length.

TYPES OF JACKETS

SPORTS JACKETBecause sports coats do not have to match a pair of trousers, they are available in a multitude of fabrics, including: staid navy wool, camel hair, madras, corduroy, and plaid.

Sportscoats were originally used for sport, especially hunting.

Because of this, they are typically made with a thicker fabric than most other lapelled jackets, and are normally made of tweeds or other thick wool fabrics. They

TYPES OF JACKETS

CASUAL JACKET

1. Padded sleeve head roll2. Floating chest piece3. Woven chest canvas with horse hair4. Felt padding5. Woven forepart canvas6. Taffeta lining7. Lashed hems

1. Under collar Melton2. Self shoulder padding3. Pad stitched lapels4. Welted breast pocket5. Slanted double jetted pocket6. 4 kissing cuff buttons7. Back vents

blazer sports unconstructed

One buttonone-button jackets should always be buttoned while standingthe top button on a two-button jacket should always be buttoned, while the bottom should never be buttonedthe center button on a three-button jacket should always be buttoned. do not button the top and/or/bottom buttonsALWAYS unbutton your [single breasted suit] when sitting! just remember to button it back correctly when you stand back up

2X1 – the only cool/acceptable 2X1 suits are smoking jackets, so opt out of regular suiting in a 2X1 (always fasten the bottom corner button of these)4X1 and 4X2 – i also advice against 4X1 jackets as they have the ability to emphasize the gut- stick to the 4X2 which will keep you looking streamlined (since there is no middle button, fasten the bottom corner button, and for the 4X2, fasten only the middle button)6X1 and 6X2 – don’t wear a 6X1, or you’ll have a blast to the past moment to the bad part of 80s fashion. the 6X2 is much more classic. (again, i repeat.. only fasten the middle button)all in all, go for the 4X2 or 6X2 double breasted, and fasten only the middle button!

Two button

BUTTON RULES