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Umbria Culinariawith Oldways

Elizabeth Minchilli and Jennifer McIlvaine

March 16–23, 2014

Umbria Culinariawith

Elizabeth Minchilli

and

Jennifer McIlvaine

Umbria

It could be said that Umbria is the heart of Italy. Geographically it is, lying smack in the middle of the peninsula, landlocked in the bosom of

Italy. Overshadowed by its sibling, Tuscany, Umbria is like the timid child who has been hiding its beauty and its treasures. But now the world is listening and discovering the beauty of its undulating mountains, and its cities where art and music abound, particular-ly works from Etruscan and medieval times, as well as Renaissance art, rivaling what can be found in any city in Italy. Equally alluring is the cuisine, which re-flects the generosity of the land.

Mary Ann Esposito Ciao Italia in Umbria

Umbria may not have a coastline, or moun-tains as spectacular as the Alps or Dolomites, but the gentler charms of its wooded hills,

lush valleys and placid lakes—the landscapes of Perugino—are the visual equivalent of the centre of your favorite chocolate. And it comes spiked with art...There’s art in the kitchen, too; no one in this nation of fussy eaters is as traditional as an Umbrian.

Dana Facaros and Michael Pauls Umbria, a Cadogan Guide

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ProgramSunday, March 16: Benvenuto

Morning and Afternoon

Check-in at Brufani Palace Hotel Our five-star hotel offers a hilltop view in the heart of historic Perugia. Unpack, rest, or explore the winding streets of this beautiful medieval hill town.

6:30 pm Welcome Reception, Wine Tasting and Dinner at the Brufani Palace Hotel Federico Bibi from Terre Margaritelli will provide us with an introduction to Umbria through wine. We will taste several of the main Torgiano DOC & DOCG wine varietals including Sangiovese and Trebbiano & Grechetto. Following the wine tasting, we will enjoy a welcome dinner featuring regional specialties.

The Green Heart of Italy Benvenuti nel cuore verde d’italia!

This is Oldways’ first official Culinaria to Umbria, the “green heart of Italy.” A region off the beaten path that most travelers to Italy miss, Umbria

offers so much to discover and celebrate!

Umbria is both mountainous and green. You will notice the wondrous struc-ture of the hill towns immediately. It’s incredible to see medieval towns—Perugia, Deruta, Todi, Orvieto, Spello, and many others—perched on top of craggy rock formations.

Agriculture is all around—on the plains and in the valleys between mountains and hills. And, as Elizabeth Wholey wrote in her book, Sustenance: Food Traditions in Italy’s Heartland, the agriculture of the region is a good example of the old ways:

“What will be remarkable to the modern-day visitor who spends a year in the countryside of central Italy is that farmers today still fol-low the same agricultural calendar and traditions that were celebrated on the Fontana Maggiore some 800 years ago.”

Wine, olive oil, truffles, pork, chocolate, grains, lentils, and pasta are the foods that make up the cuisine we will enjoy during our week in the green heart of Italy.

Lacking seashore, seafood is not a major part of the diet in Umbria. But we will enjoy trout from the waters of the Clitunno River, and plenty of meat—prosciutti, pork, wild boar, and lamb.

We’ll also enjoy the black truffles that Umbria is famous for, along with spec-tacular wines, olive oil, and so much more.

Throughout the week we’ll explore not only cuisine, but also art, churches, and ceramics. Our guides will introduce us to the treasures of Assisi, Perugia, Todi, Bevagna, and Orvieto. Elizabeth Minchilli, author of a book on Deruta ceramics, will take us through traditional and modern Deruta ceramics factories.

Finally, our week in Umbria will be about the people of Umbria, who passion-ately believe there is no place like their home. You’ll meet artisanal bakers, farmers, vintners, and confectioners, and see how the best of Umbria’s old ways are being carried forward, lovingly, into the future. I hope you will find wonder and pleasure in the treasures we will discover and savor together.

Sara Baer-Sinnott President, OldwaysMarch 2014

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tueSday, March 18: orvieto

Morning Breakfast Buffet at the Brufani Palace Hotel

8:30 am Orvieto After breakfast we’ll drive south along Lake Corbara to Orvieto, one of the most beautiful hilltop towns in Umbria. David Tordi will take us on a tour of the town’s main sites including Piazza della Repubblica, Piazza del Popola, and the Churches of Sant’Andrea, San Giovenale, and others. We will also visit the Duomo and the world famous Chapel of San Brizio. We’ll also keep some time before lunch free for shopping, coffee, or people watching.

1:30 pm Lunch at La Pergola We’ll enjoy a rustic lunch at La Pergola, a restaurant in Orvieto known for its authentic dishes.

3:30 pm Return to Perugia and Free Evening After lunch we’ll take a leisurely drive back to Perugia, where you will have the rest of the day to explore the city and enjoy dinner at the hotel or at one of the restaurants in town (see our list of restaurant suggestions on page 22).

Monday, March 17: truffle day


9:00 am Truffles in Trevi and Tenuta di San Pietro We will head over the hills to Trevi to hunt for the famed Umbrian black truffles. We will walk through the woods with trained dogs and their keepers to see how these precious tubers are found.

After our truffle hunt we will go to Tenuta di San Pietro a Pettine for a cooking demonstration. We will learn how to make umbricelli, a local flour and water pasta, as well as how the truffles are made into sauce. Then we will sit down to a truffle feast for lunch!

4:00 pm Perugia We’ll return to Perugia after lunch, where you will have a choice of a guided tour of Perugia or free time.

8:00 pm Dinner at Osteria a Priori We’ll take a short walk to Osteria a Priori, a store and restaurant dedicated entirely to Umbrian food and wine products, where we will enjoy a dinner of local specialties. We think you’ll find the design of the restaurant as interesting as the food.

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thurSday, March 20: norcia, MountainS, and chocolate!


8:30 am Zafferano e Dintorini Our first stop of the day is a very special farm, Zaferano e Dintorni. We will taste and learn about local heirloom fruits and saffron. We will also learn about traditional medicinal herbs.

11:00 am Norcia Next we’ll head up the mountain to visit another spectacular medieval town, Norcia. Alessandra Malozzi, our local tour guide, will tell us about the history of this ancient town. The people of Norcia are famous for their skill at curing meats—so famous that today most salumeria in Italy are simply called Norcineria. We will visit one of the oldest workshops in town, and have a guided tasting of some of their specialties.

1:30 pm Lunch at Palazzo Seneca Our lunch will take place in Palazzo Seneca, a Renaissance palace that has been converted into a stunning hotel and restaurant. Our lunch will include local specialties prepared in a sophisticated way.

3:30 pm Cioccolateria Vetusta Nursia We’ll visit the chocolate factory Cioccolateria Vetusta Nursia for a chocolate tasting.

Evening Free Time in Perugia You will be on your own for the evening. Enjoy dinner in the hotel or at a restaurant in Perugia (see page 22 for restaurant suggestions).

WedneSday, March 19: todi and deruta


9:00 am Todi We’ll drive to nearby Todi, which has been called “the most livable town in the world.” Elisa Pichiotti will guide us through this charm–ing medieval hill town, providing the history of Todi and the sur-rounding area. We will visit the main churches, including San Fortunato and the Duomo, as well as the Tempieto, which is attributed to Bramante.

1:00 pm Lunch at Ristorante Umbria We’ll have lunch in the center of Todi at Ristorante Umbria, a restaurant with traditional food and spectacular views of the surrounding Umbrian countryside.

2:30 pm Ceramics in Deruta After lunch we’ll visit Deruta before returning to Perugia. Deruta is one of the most famed centers for the ancient art of majolica, a type of ceramic decoration that was developed in the 15th century. Elizabeth Minchilli, author of the book Deruta, will take us to Grazie, one of the oldest workshops in town. There will also be time for shopping at Sberna, Elizabeth’s favorite store (and one that will ship to the US).

8:00 pm Dinner at Civico 25 Our dinner in Perugia at Civico 25 is a more modern take on Umbrian cuisine. We’ll leave the lobby at 8:00 for a 10-minute walk through the center of town to dinner, which will be accompanied by the music of the 60s.

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Saturday, March 22: SoMe geMS of uMBria


9:00 am Assisi We’ll travel to the historic town of Assisi, birth place of St. Francis. Irene Maturi, a local tour guide, will take us on a tour of the most famous churches. We’ll also see art masterpieces by Giotto, Cimabue, and other Renaissance masters. You’ll have some free time in Assisi for shopping, coffee, or resting.

1:00 pm Lunch at Ristorante Parco del Clitunno We’ll leave Assisi for a half-hour drive along the Trevi Valley to the small town of Campello sul Clitunno at the source of the Clitunno River. We will dine at Ristorante Parco del Clitunno, where we will enjoy trout, eels, and crayfish caught from springs that run right through the restaurant.

3:00 pm Free Afternoon We’ll return to Perugia and leave the rest of the afternoon free for you to pack, swim, exercise, or take a last walk around Perugia.

8:00 pm Farewell Dinner at Postale Our Farewell Dinner will be at Postale in Castello di Monterone. Located just outside of Perugia, this imposing castle has been transformed into one of the best hotels in Umbria, with two of the city’s best restaurants.

friday, March 21: farM day


9:00 am Granarium - 0 Km Bakery We’ll leave Perugia for the Granarium, a traditional flourmill and bakery in Cantalupo, where we will see the entire transformation process from grain seed to milling to baking during a tour and tasting. They call themselves a 0 km bakery because all phases of the process are completed on site.

10:30 am Scacciadiavoli Winery We will visit the historic winery and vineyards of Scacciadiavoli to learn about Umbria’s most important wine: Sagrantino.

Noon Angelucci Family Farm Our farm day continues with a visit to the Angelucci family and their small-scale farm where we will enjoy a tour, a cooking demonstration, a cheese making demonstration, and a simple lunch of products from the farm.

3:30 pm Bevagna We’ll leave the farm to visit Bevagna, one of the most intact medieval towns in Umbria. Six of the original guild workshops have been carefully restored and are operating. We will visit a candle maker, a paper maker, and an ancient apothecary. There will also be time to explore this small town on your own.

5:30 pm Free Evening We’ll leave Bevagna for a quiet night on your own in Perugia.

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Elizabeth MinchilliElizabeth started her career as an academic, working on her dissertation on sixteenth-century garden architec-ture. During a break from working in the Medici archives, she met her husband, Domenico, and decided that she didn’t really want to go back to the States and teach undergraduate art history. So she changed gears and very soon had a husband, babies, dogs, and a brand new career writing for magazines like Architectural Digest, World of Interiors, Art & Antiques, and Bon Appetit.

She is the author of six books: Deruta; Restoring a House in Italy; Private Tuscany; Private Rome; Villas on the Italian Lakes; and Italian Rustic. Elizabeth has also authored four best-selling apps: EAT ROME, EAT FLORENCE, EAT VENICE, and EAT ITALY. Learn more about Elizabeth and her books and apps on her popular and entertaining blog, which is full of information about food, restaurants, recipes, wine, drinks, art, and life in Italy (elizabethminchilliinrome.com).

Due to popular demand, Elizabeth has started organizing food experiences in Italy. She leads food tours and workshops in Rome to help lucky students discover the joys of olive oil, grappa, cocktails, and just about anything else Italian and edible. Elizabeth lives in Rome, and also has a house in Umbria, one of the houses featured in her book Restoring a House in Italy.

Jennifer McIlvaineJennifer has been a professional chef since 1998. Her career began in her hometown of Philadelphia, but as she became more interested in organic and locally raised products, she found herself moving to Seattle. There she opened her first business, Bruschettina, at the regional Seattle-area farmers’ markets to local and national ac-claim. In 2006, Jennifer did an internship on an agriturismo outside of Siena, but ended up falling in love with neighbor-ing Umbria (as well as the man who is now her husband).

After working at the renowned Osteria Il Bacco Felice in Foligno (Umbria) and later opening her own place, Trattoria Basilikó, Jennifer decided to take a break from the restaurant biz to start a family. She is now the proud mamma of 2 Italo-American bambini.

Jennifer has now started her third successful entrepreneurial adventure, Life Italian Style, working as a private chef and leader of eno-gastronomic tours for visitors to Umbria. She works closely with the local artisan producers she has met over the years and keeps her ears open at the markets, always ready to learn a new traditional recipe from an Italian Nonna!

“ If you’ve ever wondered how some of the world’s healthiest and best-tasting foods seem to wind up in your favorite home recipes and restaurants these days, you’ll be glad to know it’s not by accident. You have friends in the business.”

Cooking Light Magazine, about Oldways

Let the old ways be your guide to good health and well-being.

Oldways is a nonprofit food and nutrition education organization with a mission to guide people to good health through heritage, using practical and positive programs grounded in science and tradition. Simply, we advocate for the healthful pleasures of real food.

At Oldways, we are more determined than ever to help everyone, every-where, live longer and healthier lives. We will do this by continuing to encour-age people to seek out the joys of good foods and drinks, well prepared and consumed with pleasure, in the company of family and friends. That is the profound and worthy mission that drives us and our partners every day.

Healthy eating and healthy foods have the power to improve the health and well-being of all of us. Science and common sense tell us that good health and good food go hand in hand. The healthy old ways have a special impor-tance and impact because they bring together: (1) good nutrition with deli-cious foods, (2) culture and heritage, and (3) eating, shopping and cooking. As Michael Pollan wrote in The New York Times on Sunday, October 2, 2011, “I have yet to hear of a traditional diet—from any culture, anywhere in the world—that is not substantially healthier than the ‘standard American diet.’ The more we honor cultural differences in eating, the healthier we will be.”

Oldways was founded in 1990 to address health issues (increasing rates of obesity, heart disease, cancer, diabetes, and other diseases of excess) and to preserve culinary traditions, helping people make healthy connections to their food (cooking and eating real foods) and their heritage.

We learned early on that change happens by motivating individuals and influ-encers to move in a common direction. Working throughout the world—from Australia to Brazil and from Italy to the U.S.—Oldways has collaborated with hundreds of international experts including scientists, health care profession-als, chefs, historians, food producers, and food writers to create “mini-move-ments” that have inspired millions of people to change the way they eat.

Learn more at www.oldwayspt.org.

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The Heart of Italy

It could be said that Umbria is the heart of Italy. Geographically it is, lying

smack in the middle of the peninsu-la, landlocked in the bosom of Italy. Overshadowed by its sibling, Tuscany, Umbria is like the timid child who has been hiding its beauty and its treasures. But now the world is listening and discovering the beauty of its undulating mountains, and its cities where art and music abound, particularly works from Etruscan and medieval times, as well as Renaissance art, rivaling what can be found in any city in Italy. Equally alluring is the cuisine, which reflects the generosity of the land. The intense aromas and flavors of the Norcino, considered the best black truffle in Italy, whether grated on top of strangozzi, a handmade chunky spaghetti, or made into a paste with butter and anchovies and spread on crostino, make for an unforgettable eating experience. The best lentils in Italy—sweet, meaty, and flavorful—are the small ones from Castelluccio, a medieval town perched on top of a hill in the middle of a plain high in the Sibylline Mountains.

Waverly Root The Food of Italy

Umbria: The Green Heart of Italy

Umbria is called “the green heart” of Italy because of its very central loca-tion and tree-covered hills. Though it is completely landlocked, surround-

ed by the regions of The Marches, Tuscany, and Latium, Umbria has plenty of water from the Tiber River and Lake Trasimeno.

There are no major cities in Umbria, although jewel-like medieval towns such as Perugia, Orvieto, Spoleto, and Assisi dot the landscape. Black truffles are a feature of the local cuisine, usually grated on pasta and egg dishes. These truffles are much milder than the prized white truffles of Piedmont.

The town of Norcia is renowned for its excellent pork sausages and salami, and Castelluccio for its tiny, delicious lentils. Umbrian olive oils are known for their rich olive flavor and are used as a condiment on soups and bread.

Michele Scicolone A Fresh Taste of Italy

The Seasons of Umbria

In December, the pig is butchered, and cured meats provide protein for the farm family through the rest of the year. January finds the farmer and his

wife huddled by a large fireplace, the heart of the house. Fishing supplies fresh food for February’s table. March is the time for pruning trees, and in April the wood is gathered and stacked to dry. The month of May heralds springtime, when the earth has warmed and the scent of wildflowers per-fumes the valley. Grain is harvested in June, and in July it is threshed. In August the figs are ripening; grapes are ready to pick in September. The making of the wine occurs in October, and in November the earth is plowed and seeds are sown as the new year comes around again.

The labors of the months, a popular medieval theme, appear on the Fontana Maggiore, one of the most treasured works of art in Perugia, which dates from the 1200s. Along with marble sculptures of saints and mythological figures, the early Renaissance sculptors Nicola and Giovanni Pisano honored these common chores in a series of friezes around the center of the fountain.

What will be remarkable to the modern-day visitor who spends a year in the countryside of central Italy is that farmers today still follow the same agricul-tural calendar and traditions that were celebrated on the Fontana Maggiore some 800 years ago.

Elizabeth Wholey Sustenance: Food Traditions in Italy’s Heartland

The Hill Towns of Umbria

The greater part of the Umbrians live in high-perched citadel towns, while

the more thinly spread peasant pop-ulation tills the valleys below. Umbria is everywhere mountainous, a land of swiftly rising heights and deep valleys, with landscapes alternately smiling and savage. The proportion of arable land is limited, but to make up for it the many small valleys are green and fertile, wa-tered by the innumerable swift streams

which run off the flanks of the hills; and though the hills are unsuitable for tilling, they provide good pasturage for sheep and goats. On lower ground, cattle graze in the region of Lake Trasimeno and pigs in the Tiber valley. Umbria has been noted as meat-raising country since antiquity, when it was also important for its oil, wine and spelt.


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Assisi

Assisi represents a unique example of continuity of a city-sanctuary within its environmental setting from its Umbrian-Roman and medieval origins

to the present, represented in the cultural landscape, the religious ensem-bles, systems of communication, and traditional land use. The Basilica of San Francesco is an outstanding example of a type of architectural ensemble that has significantly influenced the development of art and architecture. The interchange of artistic and spiritual message of the Franciscan Order has significantly contributed to developments in art and architecture in the world.

The city of Assisi is built on the slopes of the hill of Asio, at the foot of Subasio Mountain. The form of the urban settlement is elongated and extends from the south-east towards the north-west. The Roman plan of the city is based on the set of terraces.

The most important event in the history of medieval Assisi was undoubt-edly the life and work of Francis of Assisi (1182-1226), who initiated the Franciscan Order and who was canonized in 1228. His companion, Clare, also later canonized, founded the sister order to the Franciscans. After the canonization of St. Francis, it was decided to build a monumental church in his honour. This construction was followed by the Basilica of Santa Chiara to honour St. Clare. The construction of the Basilica of San Francesco was started in 1228. The lower basilica is entered through an exquisite Gothic portal; the interior is completely covered with frescoes. The earliest of these date from 1253 and are by an unknown artist, the Maestro di San Francesco. Furthermore, the paintings include allegories attributed to Giotto and his school in the presbytery, the Virgin with a Child on the Throne by Cimabue, and the Crucifixion by Giotto, the paintings by Pietro Lorenzetti and his assis-tants, and the Chapel of St-Martin by Simone Martini. The upper basilica has a magnificent east front in white limestone, with a large rose window in the centre. In the interior, the walls are decorated with series of paintings relating to the faith and life of the saint.

UNESCO World Heritage List

Deruta

I remember the first time I heard the word “Deruta.” I had come to Italy to research a dissertation on Renaissance gardens. While diligently digging

through mountains of dusty sixteenth century documents in Florence, I would daydream about weekend getaways. When a friend suggested we head for Deruta—a small village, just south of Perugia—I naturally assumed we would visit a church or two, admire some frescos, and make a stop in the local muse-um. Only years later, when I finally made the pilgrimage to this small Umbrian village, did I realize it wasn’t high-minded sightseeing my friend had in mind, (although that was part of it) but rather some serious ceramic shopping!

Still, history is an integral part of the Deruta experience. Those familiar with Italian ceramics will have already heard of Deruta. Along with other small towns throughout Italy, like Viterbi and Grottaglia, Deruta is one of the big-gest producers of the glazed Italian ceramic ware known as majolica. Deruta, however, stands out, since unlike other centers of this age-old craft, it has been producing majolica of high quality for over six centuries without interruption, and continues to do so today. It is this continuous and ever-developing history that informs the majolica from Deruta and distinguishes it from other cities. It is this sense of history that is acquired when we bring a piece of Deruta ceram-ics into our homes today.

While the apex of the town’s production was in the sixteenth century, Deruta’s kilns, once lit, never went out. The craftsmen that first developed the brilliant glazes in the fifteenth century passed on their knowledge and innovations in both form and patterns to future generations. One of the most attractive things about contemporary Deruta pottery is this sense of history. There are more than three hundred ceramic firms in Deruta today, making it one of the biggest ceramic producers in Italy. But if quantity may ring of impersonalized indus-trialization of a craft, the briefest of trips to Deruta dispels this view. This little town is a place where the human touch is always in evidence. The hand-crafted element conveys itself in the shapes, textures, and colors of the finished works.

Elizabeth Minchilli, Deruta, with photographs by Susie CushnerElizabethminchilliinrome.com

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Todi

Todi may be small but it has everything a self-respecting central Italian hill town needs. There’s the hill in a gorgeous setting, a cathedral and

medieval public buildings, one great Renaissance monument, a long and tortuous history, a saint (uncanonized, this time), and a proud commune escutcheon, a fierce eagle over the inevitable device ‘SPQT.’ In the past few years it has consistently been voted the world’s most livable town by the University of Kentucky, an accolade that has brought American tycoons rushing to buy its villas and castles as holiday retreats, inviting comparisons with the Hamptons. But Todi was always a sophisticated little place, famous for its carpentry and woodworking. In April, it hosts one of Italy’s major an-tiques fairs, the Rassegna Antiquaria d’Italia, and in August and September, the Mostra Nazionale dell’Aritigianato, a national crafts fair. Since 1986, the Tudertini have added the latest fashion accessory: a festival, which brings the town opera, ballet and stage companies from late August to early September.

Dana Facros and Michael Parks The Cadogan Guides: Umbria (2009)

Bevagna

Bevagna is not to be missed. A little snip of a town near the wine center of Montefalco, it still retains its medieval look with its mellow brown stone

gates, narrow streets, and beautiful piazza built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. And lone-standing Roman columns give evidence to its ancient history. Bevagna is known for its handcrafts and for centuries was an im-portant tile- and cloth-making center. Today it continues the tradition of rope- and basket-making, and prized workmanship in wrought iron. Every year toward the end of June, Bevagna celebrates its most important festival: the Mercatodelle delle Gaite (Market of Gaite). For a week the town becomes a medieval marketplace. Its citizens wear period costumes and practice old trades; the bakers make bread in open ovens; the basket makers create intri-cate containers from willow branches; the rope makers turn hemp into cords and ropes; and the taverns serve food prepared from antique recipes.


Perugia

Perugia, the energetic capital of the region of Umbria, is perched on a hilltop 1500 feet above sea level and has a commanding view of the pristine

Umbrian plain. It is a fascinating city with a turbulent history, one prone to lots of warring factions from the Etruscans to the Romans (who encased the town with walls built of massive stone to protect it from enemy invaders) to the wrath of Pope Paul III, who destroyed the homes of the ruling Baglioni family and built the formidable Rocca Paolino (Rock of Paul) on their ruins as a reminder to the stubborn Perugini that the Church would not tolerate their existence as a free commune instead of a papal state. As if that were not enough, in the sixteenth century the Perugini were slapped with a tax on salt in the so-called Salt War, which they defiantly refused to pay. Not to be defeated, they eliminated the use of salt in their bread—and to this day it is made without salt.


Perugia possesses the longest list of private specialties in Umbria, as one might expect from a capital city so many-faceted and vivacious, and

so often in the forefront of history. The city retains many evidences of that history—for instance, an arch whose base is made of enormous stone blocks (Etruscan); above it a central portion of masonry (Roman); and surmounting the whole a 15th-century cupola—2,000 years of history summed up in a single monument. The remains of Perugia’s Etruscan fortifications demon-strate that it was one of the strongest of all Etruscan cities. From later periods it has kept the narrow rioni (alleys) of medieval times, some magnificent Renaissance palaces, and a famous fountain. Everywhere one comes sudden-ly and unexpectedly on open terraces affording far-ranging views, for the city enjoys a most peculiar topography. Its center is constructed at a point where several mountain ridges converge from different directions along which its various quarters have flowed outward, separated from one another by deep valleys. Perugia lies sprawled out over its mountains like a drunken amoeba.


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Orvieto

Orvieto is one of the most striking, memorable, and enjoyable hill towns in central Italy. Less than 90 minutes from Rome, Orvieto sits majestically

high above the valley floor atop a big chunk of “tufo” volcanic stone, over-looking cypress-dotted Umbrian plains. A visit here will reward you with a delightful, perfectly preserved, and virtually traffic-free world highlighted by a colorful-inside-and-out cathedral and some of Italy’s best wine.

Orvieto has two distinct parts: the old-town hilltop and the dull new town be-low. All travelers start at the bottom, where train passengers disembark and drivers can leave their cars for free. Visitors can then drive or take an elevator or escalator to the medieval upper town. But my preferred mode is joining the locals to climb the town’s natural fortress hill on the slick funicular, which deposits riders about a 10-minute walk from the heart of town.

Orvieto’s cathedral gets my vote for Italy’s liveliest facade. This colorful, prickly Gothic facade, divided by four pillars, has been compared to a medie-val altarpiece—a gleaming mass of mosaics, stained glass, and sculpture. It’s a circa 1330 class in world history, back when no one dared question “intelli-gent design.” Things start with Creation and end with the Last Judgment.

Of course, no visit to Orvieto is complete without trying its famous Classico wine…As the volcanic soil is very rich in minerals, grape vines thrive here, as they have since Etruscan times. In fact, the Bottais still keep bottles in the same cellar where the Etruscans used to store their wines. Dug from “tufo” stone, the cellar provides the perfect conditions for aging wine.

Rick Steeves Ricksteeves.com

Bringing Home the Essence of Umbria, Italy

To mangle a familiar quotation from Tolstoy, all regions of Italy are dif-ferent, but each is Italian in its own particular way. Suppose the Italian

regions were women (humor me here). Lombardia would be a glamorous but unapproachable Milan model. I see Emiglia Romagna as a wealthy, slightly dowdy widow. Umbria would be the wholesome, friendly girl next door. Unlike the American girl next door where I live, however, this one is a terrific cook.

Despite being landlocked and somewhat of an economic backwater—or perhaps because of these things—Umbria is quintessentially, almost primally Italian. This is certainly true of its cuisine, which exemplifies the cardinal vir-tues of all Italian cooking: simplicity, tradition and respect for fresh, local in-gredients. Any list of the products for which Umbria is famous would include farro, a grain; prosciutti and other pork or wild boar products from the town of Norcia; and the gloriously funky black truffle, not to be confused with the equally glorious but even pricier white truffle of Northern Italy and France.

I encountered wholesome, soulful dishes that seemed, like the stark beauty of the Umbrian landscape, to express an Italianness stripped of pretension and reduced to its essence.

Tom Gilbert National Public Radio (May 1, 2013)

The Truffle

Of all the foods Umbria produces, the most noteworthy is the truffle. When Italian truffles

are specified, many persons think immediately of white truffles since, as far as I know, they are found nowhere except Italy. The white truffle is a specialty of Piedmont. The Umbrian truffle is black, and the tastiest I know. Spoleto exports large quantities of truffles to France, a successful sending of coals to Newcastle. Spoleto used to be the unrivaled truffle

center of Italy (the ancient Romans preferred Spoleto truffles to all others), but now Umbria has two truffle cities, the other being Norcia, which has also become renowned for its black truffles, and supports its reputation by holding an annual truffle festival in November.

The Umbrian truffle has supplied a term to the Italian menu not always un-derstood even by the professionals who deal with it—trifolati, which describes dishes of diverse kinds, pasta, kidneys, mushrooms, and many others. It indicates an effect so rich as to suggest truffles—tartufi in Italian, but trifole in Umbrian. It is an unconscious tribute to the Umbrian truffle that its dialect name is used to symbolize richness.


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Meat in Umbria

What would the region of Umbria be without its porchetta, salsicce, prosciutti, and salame locale? These are all pork products, and along

with creamy lentils and black truffles they are the major foods of Umbrian cuisine. Pork (maiale) is a gastronomic symbol of the region, recognized for its superior quality world-wide. Porchetta alla griglia (grilled pork), allo spiedo (on the spit), and insaccati (cured pork products stuffed into natural casings) are made in Umbria by experts called norcini, or pork butchers. The tradition dates back to the seventeenth century in the rugged mountain town of Norcia, located in the southeastern part of Umbria. Norcia is an ancient Sabine settlement whose name means fortune, which seems appropriate for one of Italy’s culinary capitals; anyone who enjoys the delicious pork from here knows why.

A stop in Norcia is a must for anyone serious about Umbrian foods. The minute you walk into a norcineria (pork butcher’s shop), the soothing smell of naturally spiced, cured meats overtakes your senses. Cured pork in-cludes some of my favorites, such as la coppa, which is cooked and air-dried boneless pork from the neck area of the pig that is stuffed into a casing; there are stacks of spicy and mild versions of salumi (cured meats), which make great lunch fare or an antipasto, and there are the prosciutti, the local salt and air-dried hams that dangle from the ceiling on long strings. There are huge cooked sausages of finely ground pork called mortadella; blended with spices, it is totally different from the famous mortadella of Bologna that is studded with pistachio nuts or cubes of creamy white lard. You might be tempted to call it baloney, but it bears no resemblance to that placid cold cut from home. Forget cold cuts altogether. In Italy these are cured meats that have received careful attention in their preparation, and only the finest pork and seasonings are used; no artificial color or flavors ever come into contact with salumi.


Umbrian Wines

There is no question that viticulture in Umbria has its roots in Etruria. Workers tilling the soil in Torgiano today to prepare it for new grape cut-

tings are still unearthing the remains of Etruscan wine amphorae. A respect for this rich past continues to prevail in contemporary wine making.

Wine is a profound part of the fabric of daily life and a vital part of every meal, whether for the peasant, who makes his own for his family’s consump-tion, or the city dweller, who drives out to the countryside to buy it vendita diretta, “direct from home cellar.” Wine is, in fact, nothing short of a sacred drink.

Orvieto has been famous for its white wine since Etruscan and Roman times, when its wines were transported as far north as Gaul and the Nordic coun-tries. In modern times, the Lungarotti and Antinori cellars have become almost household words to even the uninitiated wine drinker. The other Umbrian wines have not been heard of outside the boarders of Italy—or of Umbria, for that matter—doesn’t mean that the region has not produced wines of distinction. The Sagrantino of Montefalco, for example, both secco (dry) and passito (red wine made from partially dried, thus sweeter grapes), was an exclusive wine drunk only by the noble families of Montefalco until the 1940s. According to Umbrian culinary writer Rita Boini, the making of Sagrantino passito was a rite that every important family of Montefalco knew and followed but kept secret, partly due to local mandate and partly due to tradition.

Wines of quality are produced throughout Umbria, but there are nine restrict-ed DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) zones. They are Assisi, Colli Altotiberini, Colli Amerini, Colli del Trasimeno, the zone of Torgiano, Colli Perugini, the zone of Montefalco, Colli Martani, and the zone of Orvieto.

Julia Della Croce Umbria: Regional Recipes from the Heartland of Italy

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Umbria Culinaria Hotel and RestaurantsBrufani Palace HotelPiazza Italia, 12, Perugia075.573.2541

Osteria a PrioriVia del Priori, 39, Perugia075.572.7098

La PergolaVia dei Magoni, 9/B, Orvieto0763.343.065

Ristorante UmbriaVia San Bonaventura, 13, Todi075.894.2737

Civico 25Via della Viola, 25, 06122 Perugia075.571.6376

Palazzo SenecaVia Cesare Battisti, 12, Norcia0743.817.434

Ristorante Parco del Clitunno Via Flaminia, 7, Campello sul Clitunno 0743.275057

Il PostaleStrada Montevile, 3, Perugia075.572.4214

Perugia Restaurant Suggestions for Free Evenings

Hosteria Wine BartoloVia Bartolo 30075.571.6027A new trattoria next to the central fountain that pays a lot of atten-tion to local ingredients including Chianina beef and fish from Lake Trasimeno. Closed Wednesday.

La LumeraCorso Bersaglieri 22075.572.6181A simple trattoria just outside the city walls where the chef mixes local traditions and ingredients with his own Sicilian roots. Closed Monday.

Antica Trattoria San LorenzoPiazza Danti 19A075.572.1956Near the main piazza.

Pizzeria MediterraneaPiazza Piccinino 11/12 Da Antonio075.572.1322

Altromondovia Caporali 11075.572.6157A simple, rustic trattoria that is a 5-minute walk from the hotel. Closed Sunday.

Al Mangiar BeneVia dela Luna 21075.573.1047The menu features pizza and dishes made with local ingredients. The restaurant is a 5-minute walk from the hotel.

ParticipantsJohn Bondur (University Park, FL)

Katherine Bondur (University Park, FL)

James Cronin (Westerly, RI)

Michele Cronin (Westerly, RI)

Oleg Karanec (Sterling Heights, MI)

Roksolana Karanec (Sterling Heights, MI)

Phillip Ledin (Winchester, MA)

Anne Liebman (Cambridge, MA)

Ronald Maiorino (Chappaqua, NY)

Martin Mercorelli (Scotch Plains, NJ)

Suzanne Mercorelli (Scotch Plains, NJ)

Janet Morehouse (Winchester, MA)

Ardis Ono (Hilo, HI)

Rodney Ono (Hilo, HI)

Jocelyn Ramella (Gloucester, MA)

Charles Schoendorf (Rowayton, CT)

Eileen Sporing (Gloucester, MA)

Carol Stearns (Gloucester, MA)

Adine Storer (Melrose, MA)

Nancy Wheatley (Boston, MA)

HostsSara Baer-Sinnott, President, Oldways (Boston, MA)

Abby Sloane, Program and Financial Assistant Manager, Oldways (Boston, MA)

Mallory Cushman, Whole Grains Stamp Program Manager, Oldways (Boston, MA)

Elizabeth Minchilli, Journalist and Author (Rome and Todi, Italy)

Jennifer McIlvaine, Chef, Life Italian Style (Cannara, Italy)

GuidesAlessandra Malozzi (Norcia)

Irene Maturi (Assisi and Perugia)

Elisa Pichiotti (Todi)

David Tordi, Tour Guide (Orvieto)

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AcknowledgementsOldways is very thankful to Elizabeth Minchilli for curating the week’s Culinaria Program. Elizabeth has been a special, long-time friend of Oldways and participant in many of our Symposiums for journalists. Elizabeth’s love and knowledge of Umbria come naturally—she and her family have lived in Todi for many years.

We are also grateful to Elizabeth for introducing us to Jennifer McIlvaine, an American chef living in Umbria. Jennifer has been a fountain of information, and a pleasure to travel around Umbria with, helping us discover some special places in her new homeland.

During our journey in Umbria, we will meet many others who have contributed and helped in so many different ways.

Special thanks go to:

•WineexpertFederico Bibi, Terre Margaritelli in Torgiano

•TenutadiSanPietroaPettineinTrevi•GrazieinDeruta•Anna Sberna and her family in Deruta

•Rita Balli and her family at Zafferano e Dintorni

•CioccolateriaVetustaNursiainNorcia•GranariuminCantolupo•WineryofScacciadiavoli•FattoriaAngelucci•Bevagnaartisans

Many thanks to our guides in Umbria for bringing to life the history and traditions of these beautiful towns: David Tordi in Orvieto; Elisa Pichiotti in Todi; Alessandra Malozzi in Norcia; and Irene Maturi in Assisi and Perugia.

Many thanks to our friends at the Brufani Palace Hotel—especially Chiara Ziarelli, Assistant Manager, and Barbara Bulletti, Groups Manager. The Brufani has been very welcoming and kind as we’ve planned this event, and Chiara has been especially helpful.

We will enjoy a number of wonderful meals during our week in Umbria. Many thanks to all of the chefs and restaurants for adding to our knowledge of Umbrian cuisine, with delicious meals and the important connections of food to place.

•TheCollinsRestaurantatthe Brufani Palace

•OsteriaaPrioriinPerugia•LaPergolainOrvieto•RistoranteUmbriainTodi

•Civico25inPerugia•PalazzoSenecainNorcia•RistoranteParcodelClitunnoin

Campello sul Clitunno•IlPostaleinPerugia

Finally, and wholeheartedly, many thanks to everyone at Oldways, and especially to Joan Kelley, Oldways’ graphic designer, who has once again made everything look so beautiful; Birthe Creutz who is always a help with the finances and budget (and now along with Abby); and Mallory Cushman, Program Manager for the Whole Grains Council/Oldways who always pitches in with great fun and enthusiasm. Also, special

thanks to Abby Sloane, Assistant Program and Financial Manager, for her great enthusiasm and excitement about the program and Oldways, and for being such a solid point of contact for all of us.

Sara Baer-Sinnott President, Oldways March 2014

CREDITS: As a nonprofit educational organization, Oldways expresses sincere appreciation to the sources of selections that appear in this Program Book. These works make valuable contributions to this educational pro-gram, and to our understanding of Umbria and the foods and wines, and art that make it so special.

Perugia

If Italy were a dartboard, the city of Perugia would most likely be its bull’s-eye. Equidis tant from Florence and Rome in the bucolic, cen-

tral Italian region of Umbria, Perugia is an enchanting hilltop city with a compact historic center that is a rambling maze of medieval streets.

Ingrid Williams New York Times September 22, 2011

Deruta

History is an integral part of the Deruta experi-ence. Those familiar with Italian ceramics will have already heard of Deruta. Deruta stands

out, since unlike other centers of this age-old craft, it has been producing majolica of high quality for over six centuries without interruption, and continues to do so today. It is this continuous and ever-develop-ing history that informs the majolica from Deruta and distinguishes it from other cities. It is this sense of history that is acquired when we bring a piece of Deruta ceramics into our homes today.

Elizabeth Minchilli Deruta

266 Beacon Street, Boston, MA 02116, USATel:617-421-5500•Fax:617-421-5511

[email protected]

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