understanding coastal processes and problems to produce successful management solutions. a case...
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Understanding coastal processes and problems to produce successful
management solutions.A case study of Dawlish Warren.
Dr. Chris Spencer
University of the West of England, Bristol
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Shallow Water Waves :
• Waves change as they move into shallow water
• motion of water molecules changes
http://www.oceanpix.co.uk/wave-simulator.htm
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Moving into shallow water the sea floor starts to interfere
As water shallows wavelength and wave velocity decrease
• wave height increases
• wave steepens
• crest becomes narrower and steeper, can’t continue
• the wave breaks
The point at which this happens varies
How does this vary on steep / shallow beaches?
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The wave breaks :
• water runs up the beach until stopped by gravity – the swash
• water then flows back down the beach due to gravity – the backwash
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Beaches : Shore Normal Morphology :• beach – loose pile of sand and gravel• survives in high energy environment…….walls get destroyed??
How do beaches survive?• beaches are mobile• adapt shape to conditions
• walls are fixed
Low energy conditions (summer)– beach relatively steep - reflective
– waves break onto the beach, relatively well spaced out– backwash returns before the next swash– swash not slowed
Lecture 3 : Dr Chris Spencer
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How will this effect sediment movement?
Beach Shape?
– these are constructive waves– give us summer profiles– berms at the back of the beach
Under high energy conditions (winter)– beach slope is more gentle – absorb / dissipate– spilling breakers, breaking over beach
– waves arrive in rapid succession– backwash interferes with the next swash– reduced ability to move seidment
Lecture 3 : Dr Chris Spencer
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• net seaward movement of sediment– destructive waves– winter profile– wider flatter beach
Beach shape is also influenced by particle size• this is due to the variable permeability
• coarse beaches are more permeable
• swash dominates, backwash returns through the beach
• net sediment movement up the beach– increases gradient
Lecture 3 : Dr Chris Spencer
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Dr Chris Spencer : Lecture 3
Longshore currents :
• waves may approach the coast at angle
• usually <100 due to refraction
• swash approaches at an angle
• backwash returns with gravity
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Longshore Drift :• wave process leads to characteristics landforms
• landforms become detached from the coast
Spits– narrow, elongate beaches– detached from the coast
• longshore drift transports sediment along the coast
• where the coast is ‘indented’ some of this sediment is deposited
• the longshore drift can now extend furtherLecture 3 : Dr Chris Spencer
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The spit then extends across the indentation in the coast• can extend right across bay bar
– if an estuary the high discharge will keep this open
• spits have a characteristic hook shape at the end, a recurve
• often a whole series of recurves visible
Example : Dawlish Warren
2 theories– waves approach and slow in the shallows– curve around the spit– angle of the wave varies– builds up a recurve
Lecture 3 : Dr Chris Spencer
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