unit 4 clothing/project construction clothing management tonja bolding lakeside high school revised...
TRANSCRIPT
Unit 4Clothing/Project
Construction
Clothing Management
Tonja BoldingLakeside High School Revised 2010
Unit 4 terms1. backstitching—stitching forward then using the
reverse to stitch backwards over the same stitches to secure the beginning or end of a seam
2. bias—grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric
3. casing—a closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring inside
4. crosswise grain —grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to the other
5. dart— a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape in a garment
6. directional stitching —stitching with, or in the same direction, as the fabric grain
7. easing—joining two edges of fabric together when one edge is slightly larger than the other
8. facing—used to finish a raw edge, such as an armhole or neckline
9. gathering—soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting stitches
10. grade—to trim each layer of fabric to a different width to reduce bulk
11. grain line- grain of fabric; the direction in which the thread runs in a fabric
12. guide sheet —step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern
13. interfacing—a piece of fabric placed between the outer fabric and facing to prevent stretching and add shape
14. layout—a diagram included in sewing instructions that shows how to place the pattern pieces on fabric
15. lengthwise grain —grain that runs the same direction as the selvage
16. machine basting-using the longest stitch possible on the machine for easy removal
17. notions —small items that become a permanent part of the garment
18. pattern—all the instructions needed to construct a project
19. pattern symbols —lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction
20. seam—line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together
21. seam allowance —width between the fabric edge and seam line
22. seam finish —treatment of seam edges to prevent raveling
23. stay stitching—a row of machine stitches through one layer of fabric to prevent stretching
24. top stitching—a row of stitching done on the outside of a garment
25. under stitching—a row of stitching used to keep the facing or bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight
4.1 Name guidelines for pattern (all the instructions needed to construct a project)
selection
Consider your sewing skill level
Pattern usePersonal tasteDetermine your size
Take bust or chest, waist and hip or seat measurements.
Pattern sizes may or may not correspond to ready-to-wear sizes.
4.2 Explain information found on a pattern envelope
notions (small items that become a permanent part of the garment)
back and front views body measurements finished garment measurementnumber of pattern pieces sizesuggested fabrics yardage chart
4.3 Explain information found on a pattern guide sheet (step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing a pattern)
cutting layout (a diagram included in sewing instructions that shows how to place the pattern pieces on fabric)
by fabric widthby pattern sizeby view
explanation of markingsstep by step instructions
4.4 Name pattern symbols (lines and symbols marked on the pattern and transferred to the fabric to help guide construction)adjustment linesbuttonhole placementcutting linedart (a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness
and shape in garment) dot, squares and trianglesgrain lines (grain of fabric; the direction in which threads run in
fabric)crosswise grain (grain that runs across the fabric from one selvage to
the other)lengthwise grain (grain that runs the same direction as the selvage)
hem linesnotchesplace on fold lineplacement linesstitching line
seam (line of stitching that holds layers of fabric together)
seam allowance (width between the fabric edge and seam line)
4.5 Name basic sewing tools and use of each
Sewing Tools
Tape measure
6” seam gauge
tracing wheelfabric pen
tailor's chalkseam ripperthimble
needlepins pincushion
with emery pack
rotary cutter
scissors shears
Sewing Tools
4.6 Name basic parts of the sewing machine and functions of each
bobbin case- holds the bobbin in the machine and regulates the tension of the bobbin thread
feed dog- teeth that move the fabric under the presser foot hand wheel- controls the movement of the take-up lever; may be turned
by hand to raise or lower needle needle clamp- holds the needle firmly in the machine; loosened and
tightened by a screw presser foot- holds the fabric against the feed as you stitch presser foot lifter- used to raise and lower the presser foot reverse control- allows backward stitching spool pin- holds the spool of thread take-up lever- controls the flow of needle thread; should be at its highest
point before sewing to prevent the machine from unthreading itself tension control- regulates the tension placed on the needle thread by
tightening or loosening the tension discs that the upper thread passes through
thread guide- help guide upper thread from spool to needle without tangling
throat or needle plate- located directly under the needle and surrounds the food dog; usually has seam width guidelines to help keep stitching straight
4.7 Describe guidelines for operating a sewing machine
threading the machinewinding a bobbinplacing bobbin in bobbin caseraising the bobbin threadadjusting stitch length controladjusting stitch pattern controlreverse stitch/backstitching (stitching forward then using
the reverse to stitch backwards over the same stitches to secure the beginning or end of a seam)
stitch a 5/8 seam allowance (width between the fabric edge and seam line)
machine basting (using the longest stitch possible on the machine for easy removal)
4.8 Describe guidelines and safety procedures for operating a serger
I will demonstrate the procedure
Sergers provide a professional seam finish (treatment of seam edges to prevent raveling)
• Use a slow speed when learning how to use the machine.• Keep your fingers away form the needle.• Do not lean your face too close when stitching in case the
needle breaks.• Do not stitch over pins. Carefully remove them as you sew.• Keep pins in a pin cushion, never in your mouth or clothes.• Keep shears and scissors closed when not using them.• Pass shears and scissors handle first to another person.• Keep all tools in your sewing box when not in use.• Do not stretch the cord of the iron across traffic area.• Do not touch a hot iron except on the handle.• Keep your fingers and face away from the steam of an iron.• Do not overfill the iron or the water can boil out.• Always rest the iron on its heel, not flat down on the
soleplate.• Turn off and unplug the iron after each use.• Drain the water from the iron before storing.
4.9 Identify basic reasons for choosing woven and knitted fabric for a specific project
• medium weight, firmly woven are best for beginners
• small, all over print helps hide small sewing mistakes
• will not stretch unless on the bias (grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric)
• require techniques for a better fit– casing (a closed tunnel of fabric that holds a piece of elastic or a drawstring
inside ) at waistline– dart (a triangular fold of fabric stitched to a point to control fullness and shape
in a garment) at bust and/or waist line
• refer to pattern envelope for suggested fabrics for the chosen pattern
Woven Fabrics
Knit Fabricsmay stretch in one or both directionsharder to sew for beginnersideal for sportswearrefer to pattern envelope for suggested
fabrics for the chosen pattern
4.10 Explain steps involved when construction a sewing project
Getting Started:Read pattern guide sheetSelect correct pattern pieces needed for
viewsStraighten grain of fabriclayout pieces according to guide sheet
note markings for special placement such as bias (grain that runs diagonally and allows the greatest amount of stretch in a woven fabric)
check grain linecut patterns out correctly
4.10 Explain steps involved when construction a sewing project-continued-
Be familiar with terminology:directional stitching (stitching with, or in the same
direction, as the fabric grain)easing (joining two edges of fabric together when one
edge is slightly larger than the other)facing (used to finish a raw edge, such as an armhole or
neckline)gathering (soft folds of fabric formed by pulling up basting
stitches)grade (to trim each layer of fabric to a different width to reduce
bulk)interfacing (a piece of fabric placed between the outer fabric
and facing to prevent stretching and add shape)stay stitching (a row of machine stitches through one layer of
fabric to prevent stretching)top stitching (a row of stitching done on the outside of a
garment)under stitching (a row of stitching used to keep the facing or
bottom layer of fabric rolled out of sight)
4.11 Describe a computerized monogramming machine
plan placement of designselect correct hoop sizeselect type of stabilizerconsider type of fabricselect correct thread type
Janome 5000 embroidery machine
Clothsetter
embroidery hoop
stabilizer
embroiderythread
4.12 Identify correct procedures for specific hand sewing techniques
4.13 List factors to consider in evaluating a project according to basic construction techniques
Things that will be looked for in evaluating your project:
• back stitch at beginning and end• buttons, snaps, etc. properly sewn (if applicable)• even seam width• hem properly placed• no puckers, gathers or pleats in seamline• overall appearance• threads clipped