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Technical Publications

Czinger 21C 3D Printed Supercar 5109

VACC MotorTech SmartCASE: BMW 3 Series Jerky Transmission 5111

Nissan ZD30: Timing Chain & Timing Gears 5112

Mazda Skyactiv-D SH 2.2L Diesel Bleeding Procedure 5116

Toyota Hybrid Systems: Flat High-Voltage Battery 5122

Holden JH /JG Cruze 1.4L/1.6L: Concentric Slave Cylinder Failures 5124

Nissan ZD30: Timing Chain & Timing Gears

October 2021

Czinger 21C Czinger 21C 3D Printed Supercar3D Printed Supercar

Like many overnight sensations, there is usually a story of hardship and repeated failures until a breakthrough leads to recognition. In the world of manufacturing, 3D printing has been on the fringes used to make smaller parts or prototypes. But now, a new supercar has been made with the majority of its parts constructed using additive manufacturing techniques, and it is breaking lap records on its first outing.

Back in 2016, a start-up company known as Divergent 3D, intended to help automakers leverage 3D printing to unleash design innovation while cutting costs, time-to-market and environmental impact. The core concept of the

Divergent manufacturing approach is the use of 3D printed metal alloy joints called Nodes. Nodes join aerospace-grade carbon fibre tubing into standardised building objects, resulting in an industrial-strength chassis that can be assembled in a matter of minutes.

Divergent claimed that its technology could reduce the vehicle structure weight of a standard five-passenger car by more than 50% and reduce the number of parts per vehicle by more than 75%. Just as significant is the claim they can reduce the upfront capital cost required for hard metal tooling and stamping equipment (along with the

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Under the carbon fibre panels shows the metal 3D printed nodes which are joined by carbon fibre tubes.

5110 Tech Talk – October 2021

TechTalk is published by: Victorian Automotive Chamber of Commerce, Technical Services. 464 St Kilda Rd Melbourne VIC 3004Call: 03 9829 1111Fax: 03 9820 3401 Web: vacc.com.auABN: 63 009 478 209Technical Editor: Rodney Lofts Call: 03 9829 1292Email: [email protected] Contributors: David, Geoff Chapman, Michael Wakefield, Shaun,Tim Roberts, and the feedback from VACC members and MotorTech subscribers.

Disclaimer: This publication is distributed with the understanding that the authors, editors and publishers are not responsible for the results of any actions or works of whatsoever kind based on the information contained in this publication, nor for any errors or omissions contained herein. The publishers, authors and editors expressly disclaim all and any liability to any person whomsoever whether a purchaser of this publication or not in respect of anything and of the consequences of anything done or omitted to be done by any such person in reliance, whether whole or partial upon the whole or any part of the

contents of this publication.Information on products and services contained in this magazine is published as a service. It does not imply the endorsement of any product or service by the Chamber. Copyright: Tech Talk is copyright and no part may be reproduced without the written permission of VACC.Subscriptions: VACC adheres to its obligations under National Privacy Principles legislation.Advertising: Advertising accepted for publication in Tech Talk is subject to the conditions set out in the Tech Talk rate card, and the rules applicable to advertising.

This Publication has been printed on FSC® certified paper by Eastern Press who have responsible environmental practices. It is printed on an ecologically rated printing with and 100% vegetable based inks. It is mailed out in Biowrap®, which is an environmentally friendly plastic wrap that is 100% biodegradable.”

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Czinger 21C: 3D Printed Supercarassociated factory costs) by up to 10 times or more. The cost implications of Divergent 3D’s technology for automakers are significant.

Time marched on, and in 2020 Czinger Vehicles Inc was created by Divergents founder Kevin Czinger (pronounced “zinger” with a silent c, like the KFC spicy burger), and the Czinger 21C supercar was the result.

The 21C is a hybrid plug-in vehicle featuring a 2.9-litre V8 with all-wheel drive via two high output electric motors, each powering a front wheel with torque vectoring and an ultra-light, sequential seven-speed automated manual transmission gearbox. The hybrid system delivers a peak output of 1250hp and a dry weight under 1240 kg, allowing a near

1:1 power-to-weight ratio. Its quarter-mile time is 8.1 seconds and does 0 to 100kph in 1.9 seconds. It would want to be quick for the $1.7M (USD) price tag.

The 21C has proven to be nimble. On July 21 2021, the 21C, set the lap record in a multi-GPS verified time of 1:25:44 at Laguna Seca Raceway in California. This time, smashed the old record by an astonishing two seconds while using road legal Michelin Pilot Sport Cup2R tyres.

Czinger’s proprietary manufacturing technologies, in-house developed powertrain, and iconic design will guide its future family of vehicles and enables the design and engineering team to unlock performance and styling not before seen in the automotive industry. Many other modern hypercars are

made from carbon fibre which is moulded into the shapes for panels and passenger tubs. This is a very time and energy consuming process which is reflected in the price of the vehicles. Czinger’s design and manufacturing methods are currently used to produce high-end vehicles, but if they can produce light, strong and cheap cars with minimal capital outlay, you could see a factory pop up anywhere.

This concept of using metal 3D printed nodes to join straight lengths of carbon fibre tubes could influence the direction of various classes of race car design. It might also allow for custom road vehicles to use these expensive materials with greatly reduced cost. Time will tell.

Each component is engineered using AI, optimised for weight and performance. Then made using additive manufacturing technology and finished by hand for a premium appearance.

This metal 3D printed node is used to join straight carbon fibre tubes.

This means a light high-performance chassis can be made very quickly.

5111Tech Talk – October 2021

BMW 3 Series xDrive: Jerky Transmission, difficulty moving off from a standstill2011 -2015 BMW 3 (F30, F31, F80) xDrive

VACC MotorTech SmartCASE: BMW 3 Series Jerky TransmissionIm

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The 3 Series is BMW’s best-selling model, accounting for around 30% of the BMW brand’s annual total sales. So the chances are high that you might come across one. Luckily, HaynesPro has been accumulating many common faults and solutions for approximately 25 years, and they are called SmartCASEs. This example allows you to narrow down a possible electrical problem to a mechanical one.

The BMW 3 Series has been in production since 1975 and is currently into its seventh generation. The sixth generation of the BMW 3 Series consists of the BMW F30 (sedan version), BMW F31 (wagon, marketed as ‘Touring’). The M3 version is designated F80.

xDrive is the marketing name for the all-wheel-drive system found on various BMW models since 2003. Unlike its predecessor, the xDrive system uses an electronically actuated clutch-pack differential that engages to send torque to the front axle. The following SmartCASE seems to be a common issue across many BMW models with xDrive.

Symptom• Difficulty when moving off from a

standstill

• Jerky movement from the transmission

Fault codes:

• 420611 (DSC interface (wheel speed): non-permitted deviation of wheel speed (actual speed of wheel

RL/FL/RR/FR, 0x254) from output speed and turbine speed)

• 421474 (Sensor system: impermissible deviation between output speed and wheel speed (AVL_RPM_WHL_xxx, 0x254))

Cause• Excessive transfer box output

flange spline wear

Solutions1. Connect the diagnostic tool

2. Delete all the fault codes

3. Check the gearbox output shaft speed sensor parameters

4. If the values are incorrect, proceed as follows:

• Raise the vehicle

• Select a gear

• Check the following components for damage or wear:

• Propeller shaft

• Driveshafts

• Transfer box

5. If no movement is observed, proceed as follows:

• Remove the propeller shaft

• Check the transfer case output flange for damage and wear

• Rectify any faults found

This type of SmartCASE information is only available to members that have subscribed to the Diagnostic solution of VACC MotorTech.

For more information on VACC MotorTech, go to motortech.com.au or call the Technical Advisory Service.

This rear view of the transfer case shows the flange for the tailshaft.

The flange is missing some splines.


2001-2006: Nissan Navara D22

2000-2016: Nissan Patrol GU Y61

Nissan ZD30: Nissan ZD30: Timing Chain Timing Chain and Timing and Timing Gear ProcedureGear Procedure

The Nissan ZD30 diesel engine has a long service history and has been adapted over time to comply with ever-increasing emission control regulations. In Australia, there have been two generations of ZD30, and this article will cover the timing chain and timing gear layouts for both, highlighting the slight differences between the variants of this engine.

ZD30DDTI CodesZD = Engine series code. The ‘D’ is common across all diesel engine codes

30 = Engine capacity (3.0L)

D = Double Overhead camshafts

D = Direct Injection

T = Turbo

i = Intercooler

NOTE: There is no indication as to which sort of electronic injection

system is fitted

First Generation ZD30The ZD30 is a 3.0L, four-cylinder turbocharged diesel engine. In Australia, the first generation ZD30 was fitted with an electronically controlled Bosch/Zexel VP44 distributor injection pump. This generation of engine was used in the Navara and Patrol. However, it should be noted that these engines were not identical.

The Patrol versions have an alloy valve cover, and the Navara have a plastic one. The engine block bell housing

width is 425mm on the Patrol variant, and 360mm on the Navara variant. The rear main seals are different as well. The Navara did not have an intercooler.

It should be noted that the first generation ZD30 engine has an unconventional layout for the intake and exhaust valves when compared to other 16 valve DOHC engines. Both cams have lobes for the intake and exhaust valves. From the front of the engine, the camshaft lobes are intake, then exhaust, and this repeats for each cylinder. So, there is no dedicated intake or exhaust camshaft. However, the camshaft on the right is on the same side as the intake manifold and the camshaft on the left is in the side of the exhaust manifold.

Second Generation ZD30In 2007 the second generation of the ZD30 was made available in the Patrol and inconveniently still used the same identification code of ZD30DDTI, even though there were mechanical and fuel system upgrades.

Firstly, there was the introduction of a common rail diesel injection system which allowed the engine to comply with stricter emission regulations and slightly increases output. This required

a modified cylinder head which now has a dedicated intake and exhaust camshaft with the intake on the right and the exhaust on the left. See Diagram #4

The CRD system also allowed for easier removal of the high-pressure fuel pump without dismantling the timing cover and gears.

See the September 2020 issue of Tech Talk, page 4923 for this procedure

Other changes were made to the crankshaft, which now has a longer shaft for the front pulley (100mm long). The engine block bell housing width remained the same at 425mm.

In relation to the timing chain and timing gear layout, the first and second generations are very similar. However, in the first generations there is an idler gear which has a scissor gear fitted to absorb vibrations and backlash before they reach the VP44 distributor injection pump. This gear needs to be locked before removal, so there is a hole in the timing cover which will allow you to fit a bolt to this scissor gear. See Diagram #5 & #7

Nissan ZD30: Timing Chain and Timing Gear Procedure


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Nissan ZD30 Timing Chain and Timing Gear LayoutDiagram #1

Crankshaft Gear

Timing Chain Tensioner

Timing Chain Tensioner Guide

LH Balance Shaft Gear

RH Balance Shaft Gear

Fuel Pump Gear

Cam Idler Gear

LH Camshaft Gear / Exhaust Side

RH Camshaft Gear / Intake Side (behind the Camshaft Sprocket)

Fuel Pump Sprocket

Camshaft Sprocket

Idler Gear B

Idler Gear A

Timing Chain Guide


The second-generation engines with CRD no longer have the scissor gear in the idler gear, so the later timing covers will not have a hole or plug.

The following procedures will cover the removal and installation of the timing chains and timing gears in both generations.

Timing Chain RemovalNOTE: If your engine is a second-generation CRD, use the injector removal procedure in the following article to remove the components to allow you to remove the valve cover. NOTE: You do not need to remove the injectors, but you will need a new set of injector pipes.

See the September 2020 issue

of Tech Talk, page 4923 for this procedure

For first-generation engines.

1. Remove the engine cover.

2. Remove the intercooler, if fitted.

3. Drain the coolant.

4. Remove the air inlet pipe.

5. Remove the throttle body.

6. Remove any other attached wiring harnesses or hoses attached to the valve cover.

7. Loosen all valve cover bolts and lift the valve cover off in the direction of the glow plugs, on the right side of the head.

8. Remove and discard the valve

cover gasket and all glow plug seals. The glow plug seals are removed by turning them with a pair of multi grips.

9. Remove the spill tube.

10. Remove the radiator upper hose.

11. Remove the water outlet.

12. Remove the radiator shroud.

13. Remove the cooling fan.

14. Remove the auxiliary belt.

15. Remove the vacuum pipe.

16. Remove the vacuum pump.

17. Remove the TDC / CKP sensor harness.

18. Remove the power steering pump.

19. Remove the timing chain cover, taking note of the different lengths of bolt. See Diagram #8

20. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to align the engine to TDC compression stroke on No 1. cylinder by aligning the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to the timing mark on the timing gear cover.

21. Check that the two marks on the camshaft pulley are at the approximately 2 and 3 o’clock position. If not, turn the crankshaft one more turn. See Diagram #2

22. Remove the timing chain tensioner by loosening the two bolts. Then hold the chain tensioner together while

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Diagram #2

Timing Chain Alignment


Gear Holding ToolDiagram #3

Remove the top bolt and loosen the lower bolt, then flip the tensioner up to assist in removal and refitting. Align the two

blue links to the two marks on the camshaft sprocket

Align the yellow link to the mark on the fuel pump sprocket

WARNING: This diagram is not to scale. Do not count the links

Fit a tool similar to this into the holes on the fuel pump gear to hold it in place while loosening and tightening the bolts or nut.


you remove the upper bolt, then remove the lower bolt. NOTE: There is a chance that the plunger and spring can come out as there is no mechanism in the tensioner to hold the components together. See Diagram #2

23. Remove the chain tensioner guide. See Diagram #1

24. Hold the camshafts by fitting a spanner on the RH intake camshaft hexagon on the camshaft and then loosen the sprocket bolt. NOTE: Do not use the chain to hold the camshaft while loosening the bolt.

25. Then remove the sprocket bolt, sprocket, and chain together. See Diagram #2

26. Remove the chain guide opposite the tensioner. See Diagram #1

NON-CRD Fuel Pump RemovalThe timing chain procedure above has to be completed then you can proceed to remove the Bosch (Zexel) VP44 rotary injection pump.

1. Remove the plug located just above the crankshaft. See Diagram #7

2. The threaded hole in the idler gear should align with the hole in the timing case. Of the three holes in the idler gear only one is threaded. See Diagram #5

3. Install special tool, 81-20620-28, and tighten to 2.5 to 3.4 Nm. The tool is a M6 bolt that is 20 mm long. See Diagram #5 NOTE: Do not attempt to turn the crankshaft once the tool is installed.

4. Apply paint mating marks to the fuel injection pump gear and the idler gear, as well as the timing chain and chain sprockets.

5. Hold the fuel injection pump gear with the tool, KV10109300, and then loosen the gear retaining bolts. See Diagram #3

6. Apply paint mating marks to the fuel injection pump flange and the front pump plate.

7. Remove the rear injection pump support bracket.

8. Loosen pump mounting bolts.

9. Holding the pump in place, remove the bolts and slide the pump rearwards past the aligning dowel.

NON-CRD Fuel Pump Installation1. Fit the injection pump by aligning

the pump housing with the dowel at the top of the pump spacer.

2. Using new sealing washers, refit the pump mounting bolts. Tighten to 50 Nm. NOTE: Precise pump timing positioning is unnecessary, as this is carried out by the ECM using its sensors, including the crankshaft position sensor.

3. Align the mating marks on the injection pump flange and the front pump plate. NOTE: The 6 mm hole above the pump shaft is aligned with the gear/sprocket assembly when the pump is set to No. 1 cylinder compression TDC.

4. Fit the pump sprocket and gear, as an assembly, ensuring the marks on the gear and the sprocket are aligned.

5. Check that all the mating marks are aligned, hold the pump sprocket/gear assembly with the special tool and tighten bolts to 40 Nm. See Diagram #2 & #3

6. Use the following steps to refit the timing chain.

Timing Chain Installation1. Ensure all sealing surfaces are free

of old sealant, oil or dirt.

2. Ensure that the timing mark on the fuel pump sprocket is approximately in the 9 o’clock position. See Diagram #2

3. Install the chain guide opposite the tensioner and tighten the bolts to 15-19 Nm. See Diagram #1

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Camshaft Gear Alignment

Continue on Page 5118

Diagram #4 Ensure that the keyways on both camshafts are in the 10 o’clock position before refitting the gears.

This idler gear can not be removed with the timing cover in place.

RH / Intake Camshaft

LH / Exhaust Camshaft


The 2.2L SkyActiv-D family of engines are based on the previous MZR-CD diesel engine. However, the SkyActiv-D has incorporated many new innovations to improve efficiency and comply with the EURO 6 emission regulations. The updated common rail diesel injection system has caused some members to ask for the procedure to bleed the fuel system, this article should make the process easier to understand.

2.2L SkyActiv-D was introduced in 2012, and the main difference to its predecessor is a very low compression ratio for a diesel of 14:1.

This allowed for massive reductions in fuel consumption, NOx and particle emissions while also reducing combustion noise. However, it also required the use of more advanced piezoelectric fuel injectors, ceramic glow plugs and some clever use of variable valve timing to allow the engine to start and run ok while cold with such low compression.

These engines use a Denso HP3 high-pressure pump driven of the rear of the cylinder head and use an internal gear lift pump to draw fuel from the tank. There is no electric fuel pump, or hand operated lift pump to bleed the fuel system which makes life more

2014-2016: Mazda 3 BM/BN2012-2017: Mazda 6 GJ/GL2012-2021: CX-5 KE/KF/KG2018-2021: CX-8 KG

difficult for servicing, such as replacing the fuel filter. See Diagram #1

This engine has what Mazda call an “Injector Return Back-Pressure System”. This uses two one-way valves set at different pressures to ensure that the injectors are always supplied with fuel via feed pressure from the high-pressure pump (but not the high-pressure supplied to the rail), otherwise the injectors would not be able to operate. These valves and the fuel temperature sensor are mounted in a unit called the “Engine Compartment Lower Case” and is a part of the fuel return system to the tank. See Diagram #2

Mazda Skyactiv-D Mazda Skyactiv-D SH 2.2L Diesel Engine: SH 2.2L Diesel Engine: Diesel Bleeding Diesel Bleeding ProcedureProcedure

Under Bonnet Locations

Diagram #1

Diagram #2

Engine Compartment Lower Case

Fuel Filter

Mazda Skyactiv-D SH 2.2L: Diesel Bleeding Procedure


This lower case also has the bleed port for the fuel system. See Diagram #3

Below is the diesel fuel bleeding procedure, and the steps are in the order as stated in the OE information. However, depending on which tasks you have completed on the vehicle, you should choose wisely at which step to start on.

If you have replaced the high-pressure pump and injectors, I would NOT be starting at step one, which suggests cranking the engine until it starts. This sounds like a great way to destroy your new pump and injectors. STARTING AT STEP FIVE and ensuring that the system is full of diesel first could save you a lot of time and money.

OE Bleeding Procedure1. Install or reconnect any fuel

system items you have been working on.

2. Crank engine until it starts. If it

Vacuum Bleeding Procedure

starts and stops, then proceed to the next step.

3. Wait for approximately 20 seconds, if you continue to crank the engine for more than 10 seconds at a time, you can damage the starter motor or the battery.

4. Check to see if the engine starts. If it does not then, proceed to the next step.

5. Remove the fuel bleeding port blanking plug from the “Engine Compartment Lower Case”. See Diagram #3

6. Place a hand-operated vacuum pump with a catch container to the bleeding port. NOTE: The team at Manzo Mid City Autos used a vacuum brake bleeder using compressed air. They state that it bled up well. See Diagram #3

7. Operate the vacuum pump until clean fuel with no air is flowing

through the lines.

8. Remove vacuum pump and refit blanking plug and retaining clip.

9. Start the engine, do not crank the engine for more than 10 seconds. If the engine stalls, then repeat from step 5 again.

10. Check for any fuel leaks in the system.

More information on Mazda vehicles can be found in VACC MotorTech via TechOnline or the HaynesPRO section. If you need assistance to find the information you need, call VACC MotorTech’s Technical Advisory Service.

Diagram #3 Remove the spring clip to remove the plug from the bled fitting. Then attach a vacuum bleeder to the fitting and draw fuel until there are no bubbles in the clear line.

We would like to thank Nick at Manzo Mid City Autos in Morwell for his assistance

with this article. (03) 5133 7358

Mazda Skyactiv-D SH 2.2L: Diesel Bleeding Procedure


From Page 5115

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Gear Train Back Lash.There are two methods listed in the OE manual, both of which require the gears to be assembled and their mounting bolts tighten to specification.

The first, feed fuse wire in between the sides of the gear teeth while the engine is being turned over clockwise NOTE: You will have to reassembly the timing chain or have the head removed to avoid damage). This will crush the fuse wire to the back lash clearance.

You can then measure the crushed

fuse wire with a micrometer to check if it is within specifications.

The second method is to mount a dial gauge so that it is touching on the side of the tooth face and rocking the gear back and forth against the other gear it is meshed with.

Back Lash

Standard 0.07 -0.11 mm

Limit 0.20 mm

Idler Gear End Play

(Both) 0.06 – 0.12 mm

Limit 0.15mm

Idler Gear Oil Clearance

Measure the inner diameter of the idler gear and the outer diameter of the idler shafts and subtract one from the other to give you the oil clearance.

Limit 0.2mm

Balance Shaft

End Play 0.07 -.22mm

Oil Clearance.

Standard 0.045 -0.135 mm

Limit 0.180 mm

WARNING: Never use an impact gun on any bolts that attach valve train gears to the engine, as this can damage the gears leading to severe engine damage.


Diagram #5

Timing Gear Alignment and Bolt Tensions

In NON -CRD engines this is the threaded hole that you will need to fit a M6x20mm bolt to lock the scissor gears. In CRD engines this is not a scissor gear.

Each gears timing marks must align with the matching set of letters on the meshed gear.

Install the timing gears in two groups

1. Crankshaft gear, idle gear A and the injector pump gear

2. Idler gear B.

CRD Pump Nut : 105 NmNON CRD Pump Bolts: 38 NmIdler Gear A (two bolts): 30 NmIdler Gear B (one bolt): 30 Nm

The key way on the crankshaft needs to be at the 12 o’clock position.

Idler Gear A

Crankshaft Gear

RH Balance Shaft

LH Balance Shaft

Fuel Pump Gear

Fuel Pump Sprocket

Idler Gear B


4. Install the camshaft sprocket bolt, sprocket, and timing chain together. Ensure that the two blue links on the chain are aligned to the two timing marks on the camshaft sprocket, and the single yellow link is aligned to the single mark on the fuel pump sprocket. See Diagram #2

5. Hold the camshafts by fitting a spanner on the intake camshaft hexagon on the camshaft and then tighten the sprocket bolt to 63 Nm. See Diagram #4

6. Install the timing chain tension guide and tighten the bolt to 26.5 Nm. See Diagram #1

7. Install the timing chain tensioner by temporarily installing the lower bolt and the tensioner is

upside down. Press the plunger into body of the tensioner while keeping the ratchet released. See Diagram #2

8. Rotate the tensioner 180˚ while holding the plunger in, then install the upper bolt.

9. Tighten the tensioner bolts to 26.5 Nm.

10. Apply a continuous bead of sealant to the timing chain cover about 2 – 3 mm in diameter.

11. Fit the timing chain cover to the engine within 5 minutes of applying the sealant.

12. There are three lengths of timing chain cover bolt, however the tension is the same. Tighten all bolts evenly to 22 Nm. See Diagram #8

Camshaft Gear Removal1. Hold the camshaft using the hexagon

section just behind the front bearing cap, then loosen the bolt. See Diagram #4

2. Repeat for the other camshaft.

3. For first-generation engines, mark the position of the camshafts as they can be fitted in either position. This will affect the valve clearances if not refitted into their original position. You will then have to readjust the shims.

4. The idler gear can only be removed once the timing chain cover has been removed, or the head is removed. See Diagram #4

Camshaft gear installation1. If fitting a new head, install the idler

shaft, idler gear, thrust plate and bolt before fitting the head or timing cover. Tighten the bolt to 53 Nm. See Diagram #4

2. Refit the cams into their original position and ensure that the keyways on both camshafts are in the 10 o’clock position. See Diagram #4

3. Tighten the camshaft bearing caps in sequence in two steps. 1st: 12 Nm, 2nd: 22 Nm

4. Install the LH cam gear and align the matching letter timing marks to those on the idler gear. See Diagram #4

5. Hold the camshaft using the hexagon section just behind the front bearing cap, then tighten the bolt to 63 Nm. See Diagram #9

6. Repeat the above steps for the RH

camshaft.

Timing Gear Removal1. The timing chain cover and timing

chain must be removed first.

2. Remove the alternator.

3. Remove the air conditioning compressor and move out of the way.


Rear View of Timing Gear CoverThere are four O-rings that need to be correctly fitted

Sealant needs to be applied to these bolt holes.

Fit new gasket here.

Common area of oil leaks after installation. Use a thicker bead of sealant to avoid this issue.

Diagram #6


4. Remove the A/C compressor bracket.

5. Ensure that the engine is aligned to TDC compression stroke on No. 1 cylinder.

6. Remove the TDC sensor / Crankshaft position Sensor.

7. Remove the coolant pump and the studs from the timing cover.

8. Remove the coolant inlet.

9. Remove the starter motor to lock the crankshaft, then loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. NOTE: Ensure you don’t damage the protrusions which act as the tone wheel for the TDC sensor / Crankshaft position Sensor.

10. Remove the gear case bolts and gentle pry at the areas shown to remove it from the engine. See Diagram #7

11. Remove the front crankshaft seal.

12. For the older pre CRD engines you will have to fit a 20mm long M6 bolt into the threaded hole of the idler gear between the injector pump gear and the crank gear. This will lock the scissor gears in place. If this is not done, the internal mechanism of the scissor gear will disengage once the gear is removed. These steps are not required for the CRD engine. See Diagram #5

13. Check the backlash of both idler gears before removal. See Diagram #5

14. Hold the injector pump gear with an appropriate tool and loosen the bolt. See Diagram #3 and #5

15. Remove the retaining bolts on each balance shaft and remove each shaft taking care not to damage the bearings in the block.

16. Remove the front plate if required. NOTE: There are two different types depending on model

Timing Gear InstallationEnsure that the sealing surfaces at the front of the block and both sides of the

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C D

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E

E

Pry Point

Diagram #7

Pry Point

Pry Point

Timing Gear Cover Bolt and Plug Locations

Diagram #8

Timing Chain Cover Bolt Locations

A

A A

A

A

A

B BC

C

C

A bolts: 20mm

B bolts: 50mm

C bolts: 60mm

A bolts: 25mm

B bolts: 30mm

C bolts: 50mm

D bolts: 80mm

E bolts: 20mm

Non-CRD scissor gear lock plug.



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front plate are clean and free of old sealant, gasket material, oil or dirt.

1. If the front plate has been removed. Fit two new O-rings to the front face of the block and a new gasket. Apply sealant to the joint of the sump and block.

2. Refit the front plate and tighten the bolts to 38 Nm.

3. Refit the balance shafts and tighten the retaining bolts to 22 Nm. NOTE: The RH balance shaft has the protrusion and splined shaft out the front.

4. Install the injector pump using the appropriate procedure

5. Then install the timing gears in two groups. First, install the crankshaft gear, idle gear A and the injector pump gear. Second, install idler gear B. NOTE: Ensure that all of the matching letter timing marks are aligned. See Diagram #5

6. For NON-CRD engines remove the plug in the timing gear cover.

7. Fit a new gasket to the timing gear cover. See Diagram #6

8. Fit the four new O-rings See Diagram #6

9. Apply a continuous bead of sealant to the timing gear cover

and sump

10. Apply sealant around the two bolt holes in the timing gear cover. See Diagram #6 NOTE: It is common for an oil leak after installation between the timing cover and cylinder head due to excessive gap. See TechTalk December 2016 page 4276

11. Install the timing gear cover by fitting the lower face of the cover to the sump then leaning the top in, ensuring that the gaskets and O-rings remain in position and all dowels and holes align.

12. Fit the five different lengths of bolts into the correct holes in the timing gear covers. Tighten all bolts evenly to 26 Nm. See Diagram #7

13. Install the crankshaft pulley, ensuring that you align the flat sides to slide into the oil pump. With the crankshaft locked, tighten the nut to 373-402 Nm. NOTE: Do not use a rattle gun.

14. Install the coolant pump.

15. Reinstall the TDC or Crankshaft Position Sensor. Ensure that the bracket is located in the hole in the timing gear cover. Check that the clearance between the sensor

and the protrusions on the crankshaft pulley is 1 ± 0.8mm.

16. For non-CRD engines, remove the holding bolt from the idler gear with the scissor gears. NOTE: Do not attempt to turn the engine over with this bolt still in place. See Diagram #5

17. Apply some sealant to the threads of the plug, then refit the plug to the hole in the timing gear cover and tighten the plug to 8 Nm. See Diagram #7

18. Refit all other components in reverse order.

More information on the Nissan Patrol and Navara can be found in VACC MotorTech via TechOnline, HaynesPRO and Haynes AllAccess sections. If you require assistance to find the information you need, call VACC MotorTech’s Technical Advisory Service.

We would like to thank Shane and the team at HM Gem Engine for

their assistance with this article. hmgem.com.au

1300 360 110



Toyota Hybrid Toyota Hybrid Systems: Systems: Flat High-Voltage Flat High-Voltage BatteriesBatteriesYou might be starting to see an ever-increasing amount of hybrid vehicles on the road. Many are now past their warranty period and making their way into independent repair workshops for servicing and repair. In a break in the lockdowns earlier this year, I visited the team at Hybrid Battery Rebuild in Lilydale for some insights and advice on hybrid systems. They described some common reasons for the high-voltage traction battery to go flat, and what to do about it.

Hybrid OverviewTechTalk has published many articles in the past about the operation of various hybrid systems. But basics are that hybrid vehicles have an internal combustion engine (ICE) which works in conjunction with a unit called a motor / generator. This unit will use electricity stored in the high-voltage traction

battery to assist the ICE to power the car forward.

If the accelerator is released to slow down or the brakes are applied, the forward motion of the car is used to back drive the motor / generator. This will convert the forward motion into electricity which is then used to recharge the high-voltage battery. This is regenerative braking.

This recovered energy is then used again to assist in moving the car forward, which reduces the amount of fuel the engine must burn.

The engine uses similar fuel supply and ignition systems as non-hybrid vehicles. So, all the same common problems can occur, either due to lack of maintenance or wear and tear. However, there are some common components missing.

Missing ComponentsMany of these vehicles have a conventional 12-volt battery which is called the auxiliary battery. This is only used to power the control units, lights and other accessories like in a traditional car.

The alternator has been replaced by the Integrated Power Module, which has a DC/DC converter that reduces the high-voltage from the traction battery down to 14 volts to recharge the 12-volt auxiliary battery and run the low-voltage systems on the car.

Many hybrid vehicles still use a standard starter motor. However, the Toyota and Lexus Hybrids do not have a traditional starter motor, as they use the motor / generator to crank the engine.

Therefore, electricity to crank the engine comes from the large high-voltage traction battery, not the 12-volt battery. The motor / generator cranking the engine seems to be a source of confusion when diagnosing a no start problem.

Is the Engine Running?If there is a problem with the engine and it will not run, the hybrid vehicle’s control systems will crank the engine for about 15 seconds at 1000 rpm. This is a long time and gives the impression to an observing driver or technician that the engine has started and is running, but then stalls after 15 seconds.

Then the driver or technician would crank it again and again, which flattens the traction battery.

Toyota Hybrid Systems:Flat High-Voltage Battery

Diagram #1

Battery Failure Due To Incorrect Charging

Toyota Hybrid High-Voltage Traction Batteries need the engine running to recharge.

This is the result when an inexperienced operator, incorrect equipment and the wrong method combine.


When the vehicle is scanned for fault codes, it may indicate to “replace hybrid battery” as it is reading low voltage. Many high-voltage traction batteries have been replaced unnecessarily, as the fault was elsewhere.

To avoid this situation the quickest and simplest way to confirm if the engine is running is to listen at the tail pipe for the engines exhaust note. If not heard, you can start checking what is wrong and fix issues as required, while you still have enough charge in the high-voltage traction battery to crank the engine.

Common ProblemsThere are many possible reasons for the engine not running. But one of the common issues is a failed electric fuel pump in the fuel tank, which will not supply the engine with fuel pressure. This should be one of your first checks.

If you wish to work on the vehicle’s engine you will have to place it into “Maintenance Mode”, which will force the engine to run. To activate this mode, you will have to call VACC MotorTech’s Technical Advisory Service for the appropriate procedure.

Inactivity is a Battery KillerThe current situation and regular lockdowns have resulted in more people working from home and not using their cars. This can impact both batteries in a hybrid.

As with all batteries, both the 12-volt

auxiliary battery and the high-voltage traction battery will slowly discharge. To ensure that both remain topped up, the vehicle needs to be run regularly, but in the right way.

We have heard of an example of a Toyota Crown Hybrid (grey import), which has been at a panel shop for three months while awaiting parts. The technicians have diligently kept the 12 volt battery charged and the vehicle has been started and moved out of the shop every morning and back in at night. Unfortunately, the ICE needs to start and then be given enough time to recharge the traction battery, which this one didn’t.

Usually, the Toyota Hybrid system won’t allow a traction battery to drop below a 26% State of Charge (SOC) to preserve battery life and prevent terminal battery damage. However, it will permit the SOC to drop to nothing to crank the engine. The assumption programmed into the system is that once running, the engine would rapidly provide charge. Unfortunately, in the case of the Crown, there was no opportunity to charge the battery, so it became fully discharged and possibly damaged.

To avoid this situation, it is recommended to start the car and allow the engine to run until the high-voltage traction battery is at an acceptable SOC. The control system will automatically stop the engine

once this has been achieved.

High-voltage traction batteries need to be cycled (discharged and charged) regularly to keep them in good condition. So, encourage your customers to take their cars out for a run once a week for at least 30 minutes (within their 5Km bubble) to ensure their vehicles remain charged. If the vehicle’s engine is still running when you are about to park it again. Go for another drive until the engine is no longer required.

Traction Battery ChargingHowever, if the high-voltage traction battery is flat and the scan tool suggests a replacement is required, you should first attempt to charge it. To do this, you will need an appropriate battery charger and some instructions. Using the wrong equipment in the wrong way will result in damage to the battery and possibly yourself. See Diagram #1

Some Toyota dealerships might have the appropriate equipment. The team at Hybrid Battery Rebuild have one which they can send to you. See Diagram #2

So, if you are having trouble with a hybrid vehicles traction battery, ensuring that it is fully charged is the first step before replacing parts. Secondly, there could be issues with the engine or associated systems which need to be addressed for the whole system to work correctly.

VACC MotorTech has diagnostic procedures from many Toyota and Lexus hybrid vehicles in TechOnline or within the HaynesPro section for those members with the Diagnostic solution.

Toyota Hybrid Systems: Flat High-Voltage Battery

Battery Charger Required for Traction Batteries

We would like to thank John and his team at Hybrid Battery Rebuild for their assistance with this article.

hybridbatteryrebuild.com.au

Diagram #2

To recharge a hybrid high-voltage traction battery you will require a specialised battery charger to avoid damaging the battery. The team at

Hybrid Battery Rebuild have one that they can send you. Contact them for details and instructions.


EXEDY - Holden JH /JG Cruze 1.4L/1.6L: CSC Failure

The Holden JH/JG Cruze and Opel Astra with the 1.4L and 1.6L petrol engines share a similar clutch and manual transmission layout. The team at Exedy have identified the cause of a common installation error that can occur during a clutch replacement.

In modern vehicles with a manual transmission, functions often provided by the clutch fork, release bearing, and slave cylinder are all combined into one single item. The modern Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC for short).

When fitting a new clutch kit, it is good workshop practice to fit a new CSC and dual mass flywheel. Unfortunately, in the case of the Cruze and Astra, an easily over looked issue can lead to an irreparable leak from the new CSC. The cause of this problem stems from the disassembly of the old CSC from the transmission.

There is a plastic elbow piece along the hydraulic line which has the systems bleed nipple. This is located just outside of the transmissions bell housing.

A rubber seal or grommet is meant to stay on the end of the fitting when disconnecting the old CSC. However, in some cases, the rubber seal comes off the fitting and remains inside the bleeder elbow. See Diagram #1

The new CSC comes complete with a new seal fitted to the line, so when the CSC is plugged into the elbow, the old seal creates an obstruction within the line. This blockage acts as a one-way valve that will let fluid pass into the CSC, but not return to the master cylinder. As the pedal is pumped during the bleeding process, excess pressure

builds up within the CSC, forcing the piston to over-extend and fluid to leak out of the cylinder. Removal of the transmission to fit a new CSC is then required to fix the problem.

To avoid this trap, ensure that you check the old CSC line to see if the seal is still intact and if not, remove the loose seal from the elbow before fitting the new CSC.

If you are replacing a vehicle’s aftermarket plastic bodied CSC with an original alloy bodied type cylinder, you will have to fit an additional sleeve into the hole in the bell housing where the hydraulic lines pass through. This sleeve and original type alloy CSC are included in the EXEDY clutch kit. See Diagram #2

2011- 2015 Holden Cruze JH/JG 1.4L & 1.6L

2012- 2013 Opel Astra 1.4L & 1.6L

Diagram #2

Diagram #1

Concentric Slave Cylinder (CSC)

Sleeve required if you are fitting an alloy CSC

Line from master cylinder

Line to CSC

Line to CSC

Bleeder Elbow

Bleeder Elbow

For more information on clutch related issues go to: exedy.com.au

1300 366 592 (AU) 0800 439 339 (NZ)

Holden JH /JG Cruze 1.4L/1.6L: Concentric Slave Cylinder Failures

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