valentino’s history 1932 born in voghera (pv) 40’s studies french at the berlitz school 1949...

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Page 1: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy
Page 2: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Valentino’s history1932 Born in Voghera (PV)

40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School

1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons

50’s Works for Guy LaRoche coutourier

and comes into contact with the “classy” world

that will become his future clients

60’s Rome: opens his atelier in via Condotti

1962 First prêt à porter collection (woman)

1965 Show at Pitti Palace

1967 Neiman Marcus Award for White collection

Page 3: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

History Cont’ed

70’s Valentino presents first Menswear collection, Oliver (upper bridge), Fragrances

80’s Becomes major Italian exporter

1984 Appointed Cavaliere di Gran Croce by Italian president Cossiga

1991 Celebration of “30 years of magic” in Rome and New York

1993 Textile approach with China

1998 Sells his Brand to HDP German Holding for 300M$

Page 4: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Hollywood on the tiber

Glamorous days of Cinecittà & Hollywood stars

Gina Lollobrigida, Sofia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor

and Nancy Reagan

Coutourier of Aristocracy

Page 5: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Nowadays…

1999 Valentino’s umbrella diversification

2002 Marzotto Group acquires Valentino for 240M€

July 2005 Birth of Valentino Fashion Group

Page 6: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

bRAND Identity

Exclusiveness

Elegance

Romanticism

Feminility

Page 7: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

BRAND IDENTITY

Page 8: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Stylistic Identity

“…Haute Couture has always signified quality, precision in cuts and draping, attention to details and to the choice of accessories. It embodies the highest tradition of Italian creativity and craftsmanship…”

STYLISTIC CODEs

The unmistakable signatures of the Valentino world—Red and the V logo- become instant symbols of this glamour.

Page 9: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Communication identityADVERTISING CAMPAIGN

Page 10: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Means of communication

Catwalks

Celebrities

Endorsement of famous

photographers(Steven Meisel)

Web site

Events

Page 11: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

GLOBAL PRESS COVERAGE

Page 12: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Communication identity Corporate commnunication

Sponsorship : Dresses Italian team at the Olympic games of Los Angeles 1984 and TWA flight attendants

Charity : in the 80’s gave birth to Accademia Valentino in Rome and to the association L.I.F.E. against AIDS

Page 13: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Retail Identity

2004

Italy

24%

America

27%

Rest of

Europe

32%

Asia &

RoW

17%

2007

Asia & RoW23%

Italy17%America

28%

Rest of Europe

32%

Valentino decided in 2003 on an increase of about 3% in retail distribution and balance its geographical presence in the World, most

of all in Asia and America, which were considered under-exploited

Valentino is trying to reduce dependence on retail licensing and to expand accessories and menswear

Page 14: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

All Valentino stores are very similar to each other and are based on common criteria: make rational spaces and shapes, but it’s hard

to find differences between Valentino stores and other designer shops

Valentino started an acquiring campaign of licensed shops to

increase the percentage of directly operated stores from 48% to 65%

by the end of 2007. Thus Valentino will also be able to

strengthen its image through the retail policy: a firm, a style, a

shop… First Valentino Shop in Rome

Which one is not a Valentino shop? Can

you tell the difference?

(N° 3 is a Ferré shop)

Page 15: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Retail Identity

Is the retail image coherent with the brand’s one?Can we find in Valentino boutiques Valentino’s idea and codes (Exclusiveness, Elegance, Romanticism, Feminility)?

“It isn’t always hot and it isn’t always sexy, but that’s ok”Lauren Goldstein by Valentino Roma, that presented Valentin’s Day in 2002

“It’s not exciting, it’s not subversive, and it’s never even

original”Lauren Goldstein

Page 16: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Brand positioning

Although Valentino’s success as a coutourier, market forces and increased competitiveness drove to a change: from griffe in a high end market to brand in lower segments

Page 17: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

GROWTH strategyExisting product

category

New product

category

Sub Brand

New Brand

Only Brand and Line extension

Page 18: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

LicensingValentino uses an intensive licensing strategy in order to

diversify its brand in different segments and product categories (eyewear, silks, ties, furs,wedding dresses, textiles, fragrances)

Page 19: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Competitors

Valentino’s line extension

enabled him to gain access to

different market segments.

This process entailed

competing with many established brands at various

levels.

Page 20: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Where is Valentino?

In 2005 profits grew by 20% with respect to last year

Consolidation of Valentino fashion Group

Strategic acquisition of Japanese retail network

Italy- increase in wholesale distribution and womenswear in the diffusion segment

Emerging luxury market in Eastern Europe

Page 21: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

What’s nextThe positive trend of the Spring/Summer pre-collections anticipates growth in revenues in line with the previous season

Breaking through the Indian market

Continuing expansion in Asia

Cutting the haute couture business from 3% to 1% by lowering Valentino’s influence… After Valentino?

BUT

Will this policy be sustainable?

Page 22: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy

Excessive Brand/Line extension and licensing made it impossible to mantain a

clear and integrated idea of the brand identity that was originally envisioned by Valentino and made him famous all over

the world

SOME Examples are:

Low quality leather goods

Bad quality curtains

R.E.D. Valentino is not so exclusive

Chinese use of Valentino name

Page 23: Valentino’s history 1932 Born in Voghera (PV) 40’s Studies french at the Berlitz School 1949 Moves to Paris and takes dance lessons 50’s Works for Guy