1. VALUE ADDITION OF KHADI THROUGH DESIGN INPUTS R.B.Chavan Former Professor, IIT Delhi Consultant, MGIRI Wardha

2. TEXTILE MANUFACTURE IN INDIA

• ORGANIZED TEXTILE MILLS

• DECENTRALIZED TEXTILE MANUFACTURE

• POWER LOOM

• HANDLOOM

• KHADI

3. ORGANIZED TEXTILE MILLS LARGE SCALE MANUFACTURE OF YARN LOOM STATE FABRIC FINISHED FABRIC SPINNING WEAVING CHEMICAL PROCESSING IN THE SAME PREMISES INVESTMENT MORE THAN Rs.1000 CRORE

4. FEW IMPORTANT OWENERS OF LARGE SCALE TEXTILE MILLS

• AMBANI: RELIANCE TEXTILES (SURAT, GUJRAT))

• BIRLA: GWALIOR RAYON (NAGDA, M P)

• WADIA: BOMBAY DYEING (MUMBAI, MAHARASHTRA)

• OSWAL: OSWAL TEXTILES (BADDI, PUNJAB)

• MANY OTHERS (MAHARASHTRA, PUNJAB, GUJRAT)

FEATURE LARGE SCALE PRODUCTION FEW LAKH METERS PER DAY COMPLETE AUTOMATION VERY LITTLE MANPOWER FOR THE SCALE OF PRODUCTION MASS PRODUCTION

5. DECENTRALIZED SECTOR POWER LOOM HAND LOOM KHADI POWER LOOM WEAVING ACTIVITY BY USING ELECTRICALLY OPERATED LOOM BY INDIVIDUAL OWENERS (10-100 LOOMS PER OWENER) NO SPINNING ACTIVITY YARN PURCHASED FROM LARGE SCALE SPINNING MILL WEAVING PRODUCTION IN THE RANGE OF FEW 1000 METERS PER DAY MEDIUM EMPLOYMENT GENERATION

6. HAND LOOM MANUAL WEAVING OPERATION HAND LOOMS OWENED BY INDIVIDUAL WEAVERS OR 10-100 LOOM OWENED BY AN INDIVIDUAL AND WEAVING IS CARRIED OUT BY WEAVERS ON JOB WORK BASIS NO SPINNING ACTIVITY YARN IS PURCHASED FROM BIG SPINNING MILLS LOW PRODUCTION LARGE NUMBERS ARE INVOLVED PRODUCTION BY MASSES VERY OLD INDUSTRY. MORE THAN 1000 YEARS

7. KHADI SPINNING MANUAL SPINNING ON CHRKHA WEAVING MANUAL WEAVING ON HAND LOOM VERY LOW PRODUCTION LARGE SCALE EMPLOYMENT PRODUCTION BY MASSES CHARKHA AND LOOMS OWENED BY INDIVIDUAL SPINNER AND WEAVERS OR OWNED BY KHADI INSTITUTIONS

8. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DIFFERENT FABRICS MILL MADE FABRIC SPINNING AND WEAVING CARRIED OUT ON LARGE SCALE USING MODERN ELECTRICALLY OPERATED SPINNING MACHINES AND LOOMS HANDLOOM YARN IS PURCHASED FROM BIG SPINNING MILLS AND WEAVING IS MNUAL KHADI MANUAL SPINNING OF YARN ON CHARKHA WEAVING ON HAND LOOM

9. PRODUCTION OF FABRIC IN DIFFERENT SECTORS 0.4 KHADI 20 HANDLOOM 74 POWERLOOM 06 MILL PRODUCTION % SECTOR

10. PRODUCTION COST MILL MADE FABRIC CHEAPEST KHADI EXPENSIVE PROFIT REALIZATION MILL MADE FABRIC VERY HIGH KHADI VERY LOW

11. VALUE ADDITION TO KHADI FABRIC THROUGH DESIGN INPUTS

• DESIGN USUALLY MEANS PRODUCTION OF COLOURED PATTERN

• HOWEVER IT IS POSSIBLE TO PRODUCE PATTERN EVEN WITHOUT USING COLOUR

• EXAMPLES

• CHIKENKARI WORK OF LUCKNOW WHICH FALLS IN THE

• CATEGORY OF EMBROIDARY

• WHITE PRINT EFFECT

• WHTE KNITTED PATTERN

12.

13. WHITE PRINTED PATTERN WHITE KNITTED PATTERN

14.

• TECHNIQUES OF PRODUCING DESIGNED FABRIC

• PRINTING

• WEAVING

• KNITTING

• EMBROIDARY

• PATCH WORK (APPLIQUE)

• FANCY YARN

15. PRINTING

• METHODS OF PRINTING

• BLOCK PRINTING

• SCREEN PRINTING: MANUAL SCREEN PRINTING, FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING, ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

• ROLLER PRINTING

• TRANSFER PRINTING

• DIGITAL PRINTING

• METHODS GIVING PRINT LIKE EFFECT

• BATIK

• TIE-DYE

• SPRAY OR STENCIL PRINTING

16. BLOCK PRINTING

17.

18. SCREEN PRINTING FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING DESIGN SCREEN ROTARY SCREEN PRINTING

19. TRANSFER PRINTING TRANSFER PRINTING MACHINES

20. DIGITAL PRINTING

21. TIE DYE

22. BATIK

23. SPRAY/STENCIL PRINTS

24. WOVEN DESIGNS

25. WOVEN DESIGNS

26. WOVEN DOBBY DESIGNS

27. JACQUARD DESIGNS

28. KHADI IN FASHION SHOWS Sarvodaya Ashram is catering to the tastes of the new generation Khadi Gramodyog Bhawan in Delhi

29. Designers from the National Institute of Design have given khadi a new look A model presents designs at a fashion show of Khadi (Banglore)

30. A range of exquisite western and eastern designs Traditional designs in khadi

31. Western influence on khadi Ritu Beri's creations in France

32. Fashion designers recently formed a Fashion Design Council of India with an aim to promote the industry.