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Assembling Full-size PAttern Printout1To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2 × 2" (5 × 5 cm).

2To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page.

3The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and follow the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.

GettinG Started Basic techniques & terms you’ll need to know for the

pattern you have downloaded.

Test Square2 2" [5 5 cm]

Layout, MarkinG & CuttinG GuideLineS

1Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel.

2If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, with right sides facing.

3Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double check that all pattern pieces to be cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.

4Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grain line running parallel to the lengthwise grain.

5Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric.

6Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing.

7Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed.

8������Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.

pattern

CuttinG LineS Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size.

PLaCe on foLd braCket This is a grain line marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold of the fabric so that your finished piece will be twice the size of the pattern piece, without adding a seam.

Grain Line The double ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold.

notCheS Notches are triangle shaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have corresponding notches.

dartS Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, near the end of the dart, where your stitching should taper down to the end).

driLL hoLeS Circles with crossed lines inside indicate an area where a mark needs to be made, often indicating dart points, but otherwise explained in the pattern instructions.

SLaSh MarkS Long lines indicate an area to make a slash. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions.

LetterS Match the letters on the yield diagrams to those on the full size pattern pieces. Pattern pieces without a letter are cut from a contrast fabric for which no yield is provided.

PAttern symbols & mArkings

place

A–E

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Other SupplieS— Thin metallic yarn or embroidery thread

(shown here: Filatura Di Crosa Night [66% Viscose; 34% polyester])

— Metallic thread or embroidery thread to match yarn

— Metallic sewing machine needle— Sewing thread to match velvet— Assorted small beads for small tassels at

corners (optional)— Rotary cutter and self-healing cutting

mat (optional)— Clear acrylic ruler (optional)— Beading needle (optional)— Handsewing needle

Finished size: About 64" (162.5 cm) long (from top corners to bottom point) x 56" (142 cm) at widest point; about 26½" (67.5 cm) long from neck edge to bottom point

NOteS— To avoid puckering, the zigzag stitching must

follow the direction of the pile (the threads that stand on the surface of velvet, giving the fabric its plush appearance and texture). This means that your stitching should run mostly parallel to the lengthwise or crosswise grain (see Sewing Basics on page 83 of Stitch magazine, Fall 2009). As long as your curving lines are wide and don’t curve too tightly, you’ll probably be fine, but you want to avoid stitching across the bias (this will cut across the pile and cause puckering and matting of the threads).

— When couching (see Stitch Glossary on page 85 of Stitch magazine, Fall 2009) the yarn or embroidery thread to the surface, you will be using a small zigzag stitch. You’ll proba-bly want to practice on a scrap of fabric first; make sure that your stitch is wide enough to move along the fabric without tugging, and be sure to encase the yarn or thread (the needle should swing just past the edges of the yarn or thread and into the background fabric). If your stitch is too wide it can cause the fabric to bunch from side to side, so do a little experimenting until you are happy with the visual result. Using a tear-away stabi-lizer can help to keep the fabric more stable as you sew, however some stabilizer will be left around the stitches and will show in the finished product unless you choose to insert the optional lining. Just be patient and go slowly and you can achieve nice results either way.

— Accessory feet that control the yarn as you stitch are available for many machines. Check with your local dealer for a braiding

Velvet WrapBy triCia WaddeLL {from page 79}

Fabric— 2 yd (1.8 m) of lightweight velvet (at least

60" [152.5 cm] wide)— 2 yd (1.8 m) of light- to medium-weight

fabric (such as satin; at least 60" [152.5 cm] wide) for optional lining (see sidebar on page 3)

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foot, which has an adjustable slider in front to hold many sizes of yarn and ribbon. With the proper accessory foot, you can watch the needle and guide the fabric without worry-ing about the exact position of the yarn.

— Metallic thread can be fussy and may break often, so have patience!

cut Out patterN1Print the full-size pattern PDF. Fold the velvet in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching up the selvedges. Using the pattern and a rotary cutter and self-healing mat or scissors (the pattern is quite large so you may not have a large enough mat to rotary-cut the piece without shifting it), cut out one Wrap on the fold.

add decOrative cOuchiNg2With the wrap lying right side up in front of you, start at the raw edge of one top corner and hold or pin in place a long length of metallic yarn or embroidery thread, running from raw edge to raw edge. The easiest way to do this is to temporarily place some yarn or thread with-out cutting it from the skein and eyeball the amount you will need; account for some extra length, including enough to create gently curv-ing lines as desired, and then cut the length of yarn or thread from the skein. You can cut the lengths you need as you go (you’ll need longer pieces as you move down toward the bottom point and then shorter lengths as you move back up the other side) or cut several lengths in preparation to cover the entire surface with the curvy lines, as shown in the photos on page 2.

3Be sure to experiment with the stitch set-tings on your machine with some scrap fabric and yarn before continuing (see Notes). Using the metallic thread and a small zigzag stitch, stitch over the yarn or embroidery thread along the entire length (figure 1), making sure to backtack several times at the beginning and end of each stitch line to secure. You can pin the yarn or thread in place before stitching

or use your fingers to guide it in a freeform motion as you stitch; create wide, gentle curves that run along the lengthwise or cross-wise grain. When you reach the raw edge, cut the yarn or thread flush with the edge.

4Repeat Steps 2 and 3 until you have added couched yarns or threads across the entire wrap. Space the lines as desired, but keep enough space between them to avoid pucker-ing. If you miss spots, go back and zigzag over them to secure. The couching should radiate out from the central “neck opening."

5When the couching is complete, give the entire wrap a good steaming. Avoid ironing if possible, but if necessary, use a spare piece of velvet as a pressing cloth or hold the iron ½" (1.3 cm) above the fabric and slowly steam the entire length.

FiNiSh the edgeS6If you plan to add the optional lining, refer to the sidebar below before continuing. Create a hem around the entire wrap by folding the edges over 3⁄8" (1 cm) toward the wrong side, then folding over another ½" (1.3 cm), pinning in place as you go. Edgestitch (see Sewing Basics on page 83 of Stitch magazine, Fall 2009) along the inside fold of the hem, using matching sewing thread.

add beaded taSSel eNdS (OptiONal)For a decorative touch, add a few beads to the two top corners of the wrap. If using really small beads, such as seed beads, you will need a beading needle to string them. Thread a handsewing (or beading) needle with a length of the metallic thread and knot at one end, making sure the knot is large enough to hold the end bead in place; if you are concerned about the thread break-ing, use strong, doubled sewing thread to string the beads instead and then wrap the metallic thread around the end of the wrap as indicated below. String a few beads, then attach the tassel to one of the top corners by taking a few stitches through the hem and then wrapping the thread several times around the pointed end for stability and to create a decorative effect. Take another stitch or two through the fabric to secure the thread in place and then knot securely. The beads help weight the ends and hold the wrap in place.

triCia WaddeLL is the editor of Stitch and the books editorial director for Interweave. When she’s not working, she’s sewing.

oPtionaL LininG Fold the lining fabric in half lengthwise, right sides together, matching up the selvedges. Using the full-size lining pattern from interweavestitch.com and a rotary cutter and self-healing mat or scissors, cut out one Wrap Lining on the fold.

Place the velvet wrap in front of you, wrong side up. Place the lining on top, right side up (wrong sides will be together) and centered so that 3⁄8" (1 cm) of the velvet is free on all sides, and pin in place; if you find it difficult to get the lining placed correctly, it may be easier to mark out the placement for the lining by using a clear, gridded acrylic ruler to mark a line 3⁄8" (1 cm) in from each edge on the wrong side of the velvet wrap. Then, place the lining, using the marked lines as a guide.

Continue with step 6, creating the hem, encasing the raw edges of the lining within the fold; remove the pins holding the lining in place as you go, and use them to hold the hem in place.

figure 1

velvet wrap

velvet wrapcut 1 outer line on fold

from velvet

velvet wrap lining (optional)

cut 1 inner line on fold from lining fabric

Outer line cutting line for wrapInner line cutting line for optional lining

top

neck edgeplace on

fold

1a 1b

2a

3a

2b 2c

3b 3c

4a 4b 4c

3d

4d

5a 5b 5c

6a 6b

7a

velvet wrap

Outer line: cutting line for wrapInner line: cutting line for optional lining

1a

top

1b

2a

2b

2c

3a

3b

3c

3d

neck edge

4a

velvet wrapcut 1 outer line on fold

from velvet

velvet wrap lining (optional)

cut 1 inner line on fold from lining fabric

4b

4c

4d

place on fold

5a

5b

5c

6a

6b

velvet wrap

velvet wrapcut 1 outer line on fold

from velvet

velvet wrap lining (optional)

cut 1 inner line on fold from lining fabric

Outer line: cutting line for wrapInner line: cutting line for optional lining

top

neck edge

place on fold

1a 1b

2a

3a

2b 2c

3b 3c

4a 4b 4c

3d

4d

5a 5b 5c

6a 6b

7a