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    NICOLAI OUROUSSOFFThe New York Times

    The New, New City

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    ell anyone, Rem Koolhaas

    me several years ago as wedown the F.D.R. Drive in New

    ut the 20th-century city is over.

    Dont tell anyone, Rem Koolhaas said to me several

    years ago as we headed down the F.D.R. Drive in New

    York, but the 20th-century city is over.It has nothing new to

    teach us anymore. Our job is simply to maintain it. Koolhaassviewpoint is widely shared by close observers of the evolution

    of cities. But not even Koolhaas, it seems, was completely

    prepared for what would come next.

    In both China and the Persian Gulf, cities comparable

    in size to New York have sprouted up almost overnight. Only 30

    years ago, Shenzhen was a small fishing village of a few thou-

    sand people, and Dubai had merely a quarter million people.

    Today Shenzhen has a population of eight million, and Dubais

    glittering towers, rising out of the desert in disorderly rows, have

    become playgrounds for wealthy expatriates from Riyadh and

    Moscow. Long-established cities like Beijing and Guangzhou

    have more than doubled in size in a few decades, their original

    outlines swallowed by rings of new development. Built at phe-

    nomenal speeds, these generic or instant cities, as they have

    been called, have no recognizable center, no single identity. It is

    sometimes hard to think of them as cities at all. Dubai, which

    lays claim to some of the worlds most expensive private islands,

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    the tallest building and soon the largest theme park, has been

    derided as an urban tomb where the rich live walled off from

    the poor migrant workers who serve them. Shenzhen is often

    criticized as a product of unregulated development, bettersuited to the speculators that first spurred its growth than to

    the workers housed in huge complexes of factory-run barracks.

    Yet for architects these cities have also become vast fields

    of urban experimentation, on a scale that not even the early

    Modernists, who first envisioned the city as a field of gleaming

    towers, could have dreamed of.

    The old contextual model is not very relevant any-

    more, Jesse Reiser, an American architect working in Dubai,

    told me recently. What context are we talking about in a city

    thats a few decades old? The problem is that we are only

    beginning to figure out where to go from here.

    The sheer number of projects under construction and

    the corresponding investment in civic infrastructure entire

    networks of new subway systems, freeways and canals;

    gargantuan new airports and public parks can give the

    impression that anything is possible in this new world. The

    scale of these undertakings recalls the early part of the last

    century inAmerica, when the country was confidently pointed

    toward the future. But it would be unimaginable in an American

    city today, where, in the face of shrinking state and city budgets,

    expanding a single subway line can seem like a heroic act. InAmerica, I could never do work like I do here, Steven Holl, a

    New York architect with several large projects in China, recently

    told me, referring to his latest complex in Beijing. Weve

    become too backward-looking. In China, they want to make

    everything look new. This is their moment in time. They want

    to make the 21st century their century. For some reason, our

    society wants to make everything old. I think we somehow lost

    our nerve.

    Holl has reason to be exhilarated. His Beijing project,

    Linked Hybrid, is one of the most innovative housing com-

    plexes anywhere in the world: eight asymmetrical towers joined

    by a network of enclosed bridges that create a pedestrian zone

    in the sky. Yet this exhilaration also comes at a price: only the

    wealthiest of Beijings residents can afford to live here. Climbing

    to the top of one of Holls towers, I looked out through a haze

    of smog at the acres of luxury-housing towers that surround his

    own, the kind of alienating subdivisions that are so often cited

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    as a symptom of the citys unbridled, dehumanizing develop-

    ment. Protected by armed guards, these residential high-rises

    stood on what was until quite recently a working-class neighbor-

    hood, even though the poor quality of their construction makesthem seem decades old. Nearby, a new freeway cut through the

    neighborhood, further disfiguring an area that, however modest,

    was once bursting with life.

    If you take Venturis ideas about the city, Holl said,

    referring to Robert Venturis groundbreaking work, Learning

    From Las Vegas, which called on architects to reconsider the

    importance of the everyday (strip malls, billboards, storefronts),

    and put them in Beijing or Tokyo, they dont hold any water at

    all. When you get into this scale, the rules have to be rewritten.

    The density is so incredible. Because of this density, cities like

    Beijing have few of the features we associate with a traditional

    metropolis. They do not radiate from a historic center as Paris

    and New York do. Instead, their vast size means that they

    function primarily as a series of decentralized neighborhoods,

    something closer in spirit to Los Angeles. The breathtaking

    speed of their construction means that they usually lack the

    layers the mix of architectural styles and intricately related

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    social strata that give a city its complexity and from which

    architects have typically drawn inspiration.

    In Dubai, for instance, what might once have been the

    product of 100 years of urban growth has been compressedinto a decade or so. Given such seismic shifts, even the most

    talented architects can seem to flounder for new models.

    No one wants to return to the deadly homogeneity associated

    with Modernisms tabula rasa planning strategies. The image

    of Le Corbusier hovering godlike above Paris ready to wipe aside

    entire districts and replace them with glass towers remains an

    emblem of Modernisms attack on the citys historical fabric.

    Yet the notion of finding authenticity in a sprawling metropol-

    itan area that is barely 30 years old also seems absurd. How

    do you breathe life into a project at such a scale? How do you

    instill the fine-grained texture of a healthy community into one

    that rose overnight?

    Cities like these, built on a colossal scale, seem to

    absorb any urban model, no matter how unique, virtually unno-

    ticed. A project that could have a significant impact on the char-

    acter of, say, New York like the development plans for ground

    zero can seem a mere blip in Beijing, which has embarked

    on dozens of similarly sized endeavors in the last decade alone.

    The irony is that we still dont know if postmodernism was

    the end of Modernism or just an interruption, Koolhaas told

    me recently. Was it a brief hiatus, and now we are returningto something that has been going on for a long time, or is it

    something radically different? We are in a condition we dont

    understand yet.

    For architects faced with building these large urban

    developments, the difficulty is to create something where there

    was nothing. If much of contemporary architecture depends

    on sifting through the cultural and historical layers that a site

    accumulates over time whether neo-Classical monuments or

    Socialist-era housing what can be done if there is nothing to

    sift through but sand?

    In a recent design for a six-and-a-half-square-mile

    development in Dubai called Waterfront City, Koolhaas proposed

    creating an urban island inspired by a section of Midtown Man-

    hattan. The design linked a dense grid of conventional towers

    to the mainland by a system of bridges. A series of stunning

    iconic buildings a gigantic, hollowed-out Piranesian sphere

    at the islands edge; a spiraling tower that winds around an

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    airy public atrium were intended to give the city a distinct

    flavor. Koolhaas said he hoped, in this way, to infuse this entirely

    new development with something of the feeling of an older city.

    But while the outlines are intriguing, he is still coming to termswith how to create an organic whole. In the early stages of the

    design, Koolhaas experimented with somewhat conventional

    models of public space: a boardwalk along the islands perimeter,

    a narrow park cutting through its center, classical arcades lining

    the downtown streets. But the majority of Dubais inhabitants

    are foreign-born, and the arcaded streets could easily suggest a

    theme-park version of a traditional Arab city. Koolhaas is painfully

    aware of how hard it is to escape the generic.

    A city like Dubai is literally built on a desert, Koolhaas

    conceded when I asked him about the project. There is a weird

    alternation between density and emptiness. You rarely feel

    that you are designing for people who are actually there but for

    communities that have yet to be assembled. The vernacular is

    too faint, too precarious to become something on which you can

    base an architecture.

    Koolhaas says he hopes that the plan will gain in com-

    plexity as the buildings functions are worked out; he says he was

    thrilled to learn that the government wanted both a courthouse

    and a mosque on the island. Another option that I personally

    find very interesting, Koolhaas told me, is the modernist

    vernacular of the 1970s buildings that once you put them in

    Singapore or Dubai take on totally different meanings. Some ofthe modern typologies work in Asia even though they are totally

    dysfunctional in America. Typologies weve rejected turn out to

    be viable in other contexts.

    The challenges of building what amounts to a small-

    scale city from scratch are compounded by the realities of

    working in a global marketplace. An architect of Koolhaass

    stature may be grappling simultaneously with the design of a

    television headquarters complex in Beijing, a stock exchange

    in Shenzhen and a 20-block neighborhood in Dubai, as well

    as a dozen buildings in Europe. The intense competition for

    these commissions means that architects are often forced to

    churn out seductive designs in weeks or months, tweaking their

    models to fit local conditions.

    Several years ago, the London-based, Iraqi-born archi-

    tect Zaha Hadid received a phone call from a Chinese developer

    asking if she might be interested in designing a 500-acre urban

    development on the outskirts of Singapore. Hadid had never

    met the developer before. She was soon working on the master

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    plan for One North, a mixed-use development with a projected

    population of about 140,000. Located on what was once a

    military site, Hadids design conjured a high-tech mountainous

    terrain. Dubbed the urban carpet, it was intended t o blendoffice and residential towers and highways and public parks

    into a seamless whole. Against the rigid lines of the t raditional

    street grid, the sinuous curves of the freeways suggested a more

    fluid, mobile society. The rooftops, whose heights were subject

    to stringent regulations, looked as if they were cut from a single

    piece of crumpled fabric, giving the composition a haunting unity.

    We wanted to create a complex order rather than either the

    monotony of Modernism or the chaos you find in contemporary

    cities, Hadid said.

    Yet once construction began, the design of the buildings

    was left to local architects hired by the developer. As the towers

    rose in clusters scattered across the site, it was difficult to r ead

    the formal intent. With more than 20 blocks now complete, parts

    of the city look surprisingly conventional.

    Hadid revived the concept several years later, when she

    won a competition to create a 1,360-acre business district in a

    former industrial zone on the outskirts of Istanbul. This t ime, the

    context was more promising: a hilly landscape at the edge of the

    sea flanked by older working-class neighborhoods on either side.

    To allow the development to grow in a more natural way than at

    One North, it would be built in phases that would begin at the

    waterfront and spread inland, eventually connecting to the streetgrid of the older neighborhoods. In an effort to preserve the tex-

    ture of her original concept, Hadid developed a series of building

    prototypes, including a star-shaped tower and a housing block

    organized around a central court, and staggered the heights of

    the buildings to reflect the existing terrain.

    If Hadids plan is formally inventive, it is still unclear

    whether it has escaped the homogeneity that was a hallmark of

    Modernist urban-renewal projects. Its sheer size coupled with the

    fact that the shapes of the buildings were conceived by a single

    architect means the result may well be more uniform,

    and ultimately more rigid, than Hadid intended.

    Indeed, contemporary architects urban plans may be

    less tied to location than they would like to admit. When a

    Chinese developer approached the New York-based Jesse Reiser

    and Nanako Umemoto to design a 1,235-acre development in

    Foshan, on the Pearl River Delta, they (with a Chinese partner)

    came up with a system of urban mats: a multilayered network

    of roads and low-rise commercial spaces, topped by a park

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    surrounded by residential and commercial buildings. The park

    followed the contours of the roadways below; sunken courtyards

    allowed light to spill down into the underground spaces. Last

    year, the Chinese project fell through, and Reiser and Umemotoreworked the idea for a developer in Dubai. The layout was

    reconfigured to fit the new waterfront site; souks were added

    as a nod to local traditions. The r esult is a remarkably nuanced

    view of how to knit together the various elements of urban life,

    but it also seems as if it could exist anywhere.

    The walkable, mixed-use neighborhoods celebrated

    by Jane Jacobs may seem impossibly remote, but encourag-

    ing signs of a more textured urban reality can still be found.

    Take Holls Linked Hybrid in Beijing, for example, which has a

    surprisingly open, communal spirit. A series of massive portals

    lead from the street to an elaborate internal courtyard garden,

    a restaurant, a theater and a kindergarten, integrating the

    complex into the surrounding neighborhood. Bridges connect

    the towers 12 to 19 stories above ground and are conceived

    as a continuous string of public zones, with bars and nightclubs

    overlooking a glittering view of the city and a suspended swim-

    ming pool. The developers openness to ideas was amazing,

    Holl says. When they first asked me to do the project, it was

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    rose around them, the villagers remained in their increasingly

    populated districts, where they built cheap, and often instantly

    decrepit, towers that were so close together they were dubbed

    handshake buildings: you could literally reach out your windowand shake hands with your neighbor across the street. The

    villages are poignant testimonies to the hardships that young

    workers, recently transplanted from the countryside, face in the

    new China. Many live packed a half dozen or more in one-bed-

    room apartments. But if Shenzhen is an emblem of what can

    happen when free-marketcapitalism is allowed to run amok,

    it is also an example of the spontaneous creativity that occurs

    when people are left to fend for themselves. On a recent visit,

    the alleyways, dark and claustrophobic, were thick with shops.

    Elderly people played mah-jongg on card tables in the street;

    two young children sat at a small desk doing their homework

    in a tiny storefront that doubled as their bedroom.

    Wenyi Wu, a young architect working for a Chinese firm

    called Urbanus, led me around the area. The firm habeen study-

    ing how people carve a living space out of seemingly inhospi-

    table environments, hoping to develop an urbanist model more

    deeply rooted in the spontaneity of everyday life. He took me t o

    a small museum Urbanus designed on the outskirts of the city.

    just housing. I suggested adding the cinematheque, the kinder-

    garten. I added an 80-room hotel and the swimming pool as

    well. Anywhere else, theyd build it in phases over several years.

    Its too big. After our meeting, they said were building thewhole thing all at once. I couldnt believe it. We havent had to

    compromise anything.

    But what makes it possible is the density. The Mod-

    ernist idea of the street in the air that became a place of social

    interaction never worked in Europe. Beijing is so dense that

    I can keep all of the shops functioning on the street, and

    theres still enough energy to activate the bridges as well.

    Holl is continuing to explore these ideas in another

    megaproject, this time on the outskirts of Shenzhen: a zig-

    zag-shaped office complex propped up on big steel columns

    that make room for a dreamy public garden. The density in

    much of Shenzhen can make Beijing look spacious. The impos-

    ing skyline of glass-and-steel towers, plastered with electronic

    billboards, was built mostly within the last decade, part of the

    boom that followed foreign investment in the area, when it

    was declared a special economic zone in the early 80s. The

    Chinese government initially allowed many of the small villages

    that lined the delta to hold on to their land. As land values

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    A series of stepped galleries stand at the base of a hill between

    an urban village and some banal housing complexes above.

    A series of long ramps pierce the building, joining the two

    worlds. More ramps encircle the exterior, so that you have theimpression of moving through a system of loosely connected

    alleyways. The idea was to transform the unregulated character

    of the urban village into something more formal and humane

    to extract the essence of its character without romanticizing the

    squalor. The circuitous paths of the ramps echo the surrounding

    alleyways; the layout of the galleries suggests the footprint of

    the migrant workers housing but on a more intimate scale.

    Other architects, hoping to build in ways that r eflect an

    emerging vernacular, are taking a similar approach, looking at

    more modest and more informally constructed urban neigh-

    borhoods for inspiration. Shumon Basar, a London-based critic

    and independent curator, recently described a number of small,

    unplanned settlements in and around Dubai. The dense and

    gritty neighborhood of Deira, for instance, has little in common

    with Sheikh Zayed Road and its fortified glass towers. Built

    mainly in the 1970s, Deiras low concrete structures and laby-

    rinthine alleyways are home to a lively population of Southeast

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    Asian workers. Similarly, the thriving, traditionally Muslim

    middle-class neighborhoods of Sharjah, the third-largest city in

    the United Arab Emirates, were built without the flashiness of

    more recent developments. Basar wonders if, despite their mod-esty, these areas could form the basis for a fresh urban strategy

    based neither on imported Western models nor on clichs about

    local souks.

    As Holl told me recently in his New York office, working

    on a large scale doesnt mean that t he particulars of place no

    longer matter. I dont think of any of my buildings as a model

    for something, the way the Modernists did, Holl said. If it

    works, it works in its specific context. You cant just move it

    somewhere else.

    But is site specificity enough? The amount of building

    becomes obscene without a blueprint, Koolhaas said. Each

    time you ask yourself, Do you have the right to do this much

    work on this scale if you dont have an opinion about what the

    world should be like? We really feel that. But is there time for

    a manifesto? I dont know.

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    ont

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    Nicolai Ouroussoff is the architect

    critic of The New York Times

    June 8,2008