vol. xlix no. 4 scc oop · chris daraska [email protected] treasurer - elect frank wagner...

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LOCAL SC C EVENTS 2017 MW SCC Dinner an d Education Mee ting April 11th September 12th October 17th November 1 4t h 2017 MW SCC Board Mee tin g June TB D J u l y TBD Decem ber TBD SCC oop Vol. XLIX No. 4 April 2017 Save the Date: April 11, 2017 Joint Meeting with WFFC at the Morton Arboretum $60 for Members, $70 for Non-Members & Guests, $25 for Emeritus and Students Contents Here’s the SCCoop ................. 2 Chapter News ..................... 3 – 7 Community Outreach ....... 8 & 9 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2017....10 Feature Article................ 11 & 12 MWSCC Ads, Weird Science... 13 Poster & Photos .............14 & 15 SCCoop is published 8 times per year for members of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Midwest Chapter, Inc. Newsletter editor: [email protected] Advertising: $500 annually for each 2 X 2 space $850 annually for each 2 X 4 space Ad runs Feb 2017 thru Jan 2018 Contact for ad placement and/or waiting list information: admanager.midwestscc@ gmail.com MWSCC Chapter Educational Dinner Meeting Sherri Sebastion, senior perfumer at Fragrance West, will explore the relation of the scent of flavors and fragrances in our everyday experience. Take a moment to step away from formulations, ingredients, and paperwork to reconnect with your original inspiration for working in the industry. Embrace new ways to reconnect with the less tangible, yet instinctually understandable nature of aromatic compositions. . Speaker: Sherri Sebastian, senior perfumer at Fragrance West, has 24 years of experience in the flavor and fragrance industry. As a perfumer in New York City and Los Angeles, she’s developed fragrances for the personal care, fine fragrance, air care, natural, and niche markets. She holds a degree in Food Science and began her career as a flavor chemist apprentice at a Brooklyn flavor house before joining the fragrance industry. Her fascination with the subtle interplay of ingredients fuels her passion for fragrance development, while her travels and trend work inform her approach. “The ultimate goal is to convey each brands unique essence with the perfectly crafted scent”, Sebastian says. This will be a joint meeting with the Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce. Attendees will have free parking and entrance to the arboretum on the day of the event. For sponsorship opportunities please contact [email protected] (Continued on pages 4 and 5)

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LOCAL SCC EVENTS 2017 MWSCC Dinner and

Education Meeting

April 11thSeptember 12thOctober 17th November 14th

2017 MWSCC Board Meeting

June TBD

July TBDDecember TBD

S C C o o pVol. XLIX No. 4

April 2017

Save the Date: April 11, 2017Joint Meeting with WFFC

at the Morton Arboretum$60 for Members, $70 for Non-Members & Guests,

$25 for Emeritus and Students

ContentsHere’s the SCCoop ................. 2

Chapter News ..................... 3 – 7

Community Outreach ....... 8 & 9

NYSCC Suppliers’ Day 2017....10

Feature Article................ 11 & 12

MWSCC Ads, Weird Science... 13

Poster & Photos .............14 & 15

SCCoop is published 8 times per year for members of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Midwest Chapter, Inc.

Newsletter editor: [email protected]

Advertising: $500 annually for each 2 X 2 space$850 annually for each 2 X 4 spaceAd runs Feb 2017 thru Jan 2018Contact for ad placement and/or waiting list information: [email protected]

MWSCC Chapter Educational Dinner Meeting

Sherri Sebastion, senior perfumer at Fragrance West, will explore the relation of the scent of flavors and fragrances in our everyday experience. Take a moment to step away from formulations, ingredients, and paperwork to reconnect with your original inspiration for working in the industry. Embrace new ways to reconnect with the less tangible, yet instinctually understandable nature of aromatic compositions. .

Speaker: Sherri Sebastian, senior perfumer at Fragrance West, has 24 years of experience in the flavor and fragrance industry. As a perfumer in New York City and Los Angeles, she’s developed fragrances for the personal care, fine fragrance, air care, natural, and niche markets.

She holds a degree in Food Science and began her career as a flavor chemist apprentice at a Brooklyn flavor house before joining the fragrance industry. Her fascination with the subtle interplay of ingredients fuels her passion for fragrance development, while her travels and trend work inform her approach. “The ultimate goal is to convey each brands unique essence with the perfectly crafted scent”, Sebastian says.

This will be a joint meeting with the Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce. Attendees will have free parking and entrance to the arboretum on the day of the event.

For sponsorship opportunities please contact [email protected]

(Continued on pages 4 and 5)

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 42

Finally, I feel like I can say…Happy Spring Midwest SCC! Thank you to all our members, colleagues and guests that joined us at Bahama Breeze in Schaumburg for our March meeting. Despite the weather being quite treacherous around the Chicagoland area, we had another successful meeting with 50+ people in attendance. Hopefully people had a chance to visit our March meeting poster from Fitz Chem presented by Manette Epright, Technical Development Specialist, on a new, gentle volcanic rock-based exfoliant for scrub applications. It was the first poster sponsorship of the year highlighted during Social Hour and we hope to continue this to educate and spark conversation between our members. If your company is interested in sponsoring a poster during Social Hour at any of our upcoming monthly dinner meetings, please contact [email protected] to reserve a spot.

While majority of our membership work in the personal care and cosmetic science field, I always find it stimulating to broaden our horizons and learn about other scientific disciplines. I would like to thank Dr. James V. DeFrancesco for delivering insight into the investigation of clandestine drug laboratories followed by his discussion on emerging drugs of abuse. Dr. DeFrancesco is a Senior Lecturer at Loyola University Chicago and has a wealth of knowledge and experience in the areas of organic chemistry/biochemistry, product development, and forensic science. He kept our members entertained and intrigued throughout the night as he discussed some of his professional experiences in the matter.

During our March meeting, I noticed that people are still bringing in their personal care containers to our MWSCC chapter meetings so thank you for your continued support. I ask the membership to please support our TerraCycle Cosmetic Recycling Program by bringing your empty cosmetic containers (except nail polish, aerosols) to our monthly meetings. A collection box is set up at the registration table to make it as convenient and hassle-free as possible. If you have a large amount at home or work, you can contact me for a prepaid shipping label to send directly to TerraCycle. For more information on TerraCycle and their various collection programs, please visit their website, http://www.terracycle.com/en-US/.

I encourage everyone to register early for our April 11th joint meeting with the Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce (WFFC) for a delightful evening at the Morton Arboretum! Just a friendly reminder that all attendees will have free parking and entrance to the arboretum on the day of the event so please make sure to register before the deadline on April 3rd. This event is limited as we only have 60 registrations available so make sure you reserve your spot! Our featured speaker for that evening is Sherri Sebastian, Senior Perfumer at Fragrance West, and she will explore the relation of the scent of flavors and fragrances in our everyday experience.

Please mark your calendars for our Fall Technical Symposium which will be held in October! I encourage those that are interested in volunteering to step forward and let us know! Your contribution to our society is much appreciated and we really cannot succeed without the dedication of our volunteers!

If you have any questions, comments or suggestions – please feel free to contact me at [email protected]. I would love to hear from you!

Thank you,

Cindy

MWSCC

Here’s the SCCoop…

S C CMidwest Chapter2017 Board MembersChairpersonCindy [email protected]

Chair - ElectDebbie [email protected]

SecretaryPeggy [email protected]

TreasurerChris Daraska [email protected]

Treasurer - ElectFrank [email protected]

Area II DirectorsChris Heisig [email protected]

Yulia [email protected]

House ChairLisa [email protected]

Program ChairCrystal [email protected]

Newsletter EditorMelissa [email protected]

Advertising ManagerAshraf [email protected] SCC OfficesFor member address changes:www.scconline.org (212) 668-1500

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 4 3

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Get to Know your Treasurer: Christine DaraskaSCCoop reporter was able to catch our new Chapter Treasurer Christine Daraska and ask her for an interview. Here’s what she had to say!

How long have you been involved with the SCC? Almost 13 years.

Where have you lived? I grew up in Bridgeport and Gage Park in Chicago. My first school was St Clare’s in Chicago, which is no longer there. We moved to Burbank when I was 12 years old and I attended Reavis HS. My husband and I lived in Atlanta area for three years. My family and I currently live in Naperville.

What is your Academic record? I have a BS and MS in Chemistry, both from Illinois State University. I met my husband, Jim Lowe, at ISU in the old chemistry building, Felmley Hall of Science, which is no longer there.

What companies have you previously worked for? First job was at Morton International in Wood stock IL, (I will pause so you can say this along with me), which is no longer there. I have also worked for Evonik, MGP Ingredients, Colorcon.

Who is your current employer? I have been at Croda Inc. for over 7 years.

Why do you think SCC membership is important? Belonging to a professional organization such as SCC is great for learning about the inner workings of our industry. It has been a wonderful experience to make friends and help promote our industry.

What is your favorite MWSCC activity? I have enjoyed being a part of the Outreach program and participating in events such as the ACS Chemistry Day, Project I, and various science programs in schools. I have also really enjoy the monthly meetings and have enjoyed the ones that were at the Field Museum and Art Institute several years ago.

Tell us about your hobbies or leisure activities: Golf, scrapbooking, cooking, biking. I have participated in the Naperville Sprint triathlon for the last 7 years which is in June. Come join me!

What is your favorite restaurant? Too many to mention! I do love to cook and installed a 60 in duel-fuel Wolf stove/range in my kitchen a couple years ago. The family favorite dish is whole fish cooked in a salt cake.

What is your favorite board game? I love playing Scrabble both the old fashioned way by board game and electronically.

Thank you for the honor and privilege to serve as the Treasurer for the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Midwest Chapter.

Chapter News

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 44

MWSCC

Chapter News

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Register for this event:http://www.midwestscc.org/event/next-chapter-

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Venue for April 11, 2017 Dinner MeetingRegistration and Payment Deadline: April 3, 2017

Location:Morton Arboretum4100 IL Highway 53Lisle, IL 60532

Phone: (630) 968-0074

Cost:$60 for members$70 for non-members$25 for Emeritus$25 for Students

Schedule: 5:00 pm   Board Meeting5:30 - 6:30 pm   Networking6:30 - 9:00 pm   Buffet dinner & Speaker

MenuEntree

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Coffee, tea, water

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The SCC Midwest Chapter needs YOU to join the ranks of previous chairs and secretaries as either the 2018 Chair-elect or Secretary!

The chapter is looking for chemists, biologists, sales people and researchers to be a part of the team. General Members in the Midwest area can be elected as an executive board member. Both General Members and National Affiliates can be appointed as board members and be responsible for planning next year’s events. Those interested in running for office are encouraged to contact the current Chair-elect, Debbie Zartler, at [email protected] or Secretary, Peggy Bennett, at [email protected] for more information.

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 4 5

MWSCC

Chapter News

April 11, 2017 Joint Meeting with WFFCSociety of Cosmetic Chemists, Midwest Chapter, Inc.

and

Women in Flavor and Fragrance Commerce, Inc.present

“Creating Natural Experiences through Fragrance”

Tuesday, April 11, 20175:30 - 9:00pm

The Arbor RoomMorton Arboretum 4100 IL Highway 53

Lisle, IL 60532

Registration and Payment Deadline: April 3, 2017Registration is limited to 60 participants!

Price includes dinner, parking and all day entrance to the Arboretum

$60 for SCC members$70 for non-members

$25 for Emeritus or Students

Register and pay online at : www.midwestscc.org or register by mailing registration form and check made out to:

Society of Cosmetic Chemists, Midwest Chapter, Inc.4740 N. Cumberland Ave #364Chicago, IL 60656

Name ____________________________________________________________________

Company________________________________________________________________

Address _________________________________________________________________

City, State, Zip _________________________________________________________

Phone( )______________________________ Fax( )___________________________

email: ___________________________________________________________________

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 46

MWSCC

Chapter News

SCCoop Newsletter Deadlines and Feature ArticlePlease submit all SCCoop information to the SCCoop newsletter editor before the deadlines listed below for each issue. Articles can be emailed to the editor, Melissa Tolla, [email protected]. Please submit your articles as a Word doc, docx, txt, or rft file. Any photos should be jpg, tif, Photo Shop, or InDesign files with a minimum of 1 MB or 150 dpi for digital printing requirements.

Since we like the SCCoop to be as timely as possible, we need the lead time indicated. You can help by early planning and submission of your information or articles. Authors of selected articles that are published in SCCoop will receive a $50 reimbursement and be eligible to win the “Midwest Chapter SCCoop Feature Article Award” for the best article published during the calendar year.

The Midwest Chapter SCCoop Feature Article Award began in 2011 to recognize the author of a Feature Article which was published in the SCCoop for the calendar year. The Award is a check for $150 and Certificate to be given at the January 2018 Educational Dinner meeting. Past recipients: Matt Zoeller (2011), Perry Romanowski (2012) and Laura M. Szymczak (2013).

2017 SCCoop Issue DeadlineMarch February 17April March 17

May April 14September August 12

October September 14November October 14

Poster Sponsorships during Social Hour at Monthly Dinner MeetingsFor $100, your company can sponsor social hour and present a poster during that time. Posters can be commercial in nature and the typical size is 24” x 36”. The poster abstract will be also published in the SCCoop newsletter and on the website. Contact [email protected] to reserve a sponsorship for one of our upcoming meetings. You will need to have your company logo, poster title and a brief description (one paragraph) of the poster along with payment submitted one month prior to the meeting.

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Belvedere Events and Banquets1170 West Devon

Elk Grove Village, IL 60007

We are currently looking for volunteers to help organize this event. Please contact Cindy at [email protected] if you are interested.

For the third time during the Technical Symposium, a Student Poster Session will be held from 9 a.m. - 3 p.m. We are looking for students to present their scientific work.

The posters will be judged and awards will be given. This will be a great opportunity for students to present their ideas and findings and meet members of the MWSCC.If you would like to submit an abstract for a student poster, please write to [email protected] .

MWSCC

Chapter News

Save the Date!Midwest SCC Fall Technical Symposium

Congratulations Kevin Nihill!

Kevin Nihill, 2015 MWSCC Graduate Student Scholarship recipient, has a publication that was selected by The Journal of Chemical Physics as one of the 2016 Editor’s Choice articles.

Experimental and theoretical study of rotationally inelastic diffraction of H2(D2) from methyl-terminated Si(111)Kevin J. Nihill,1,a) Zachary M. Hund,1,a) Alberto Muzas,2 Cristina Díaz,2,3 Marcos del Cueto,2 Terry Frankcombe,4 Noah T. Plymale,5 Nathan S. Lewis,5 Fernando Martín,2,3,6

and S. J. Sibener1,b)

1 The James Franck Institute and Department of Chemistry, The University of Chicago, 929 E. 57th Street, Chicago, Illinois 60637, USA2 Departamento de Química, Módulo 13, Universidad Autónoma de Madrid, 28049 Madrid, Spain3 Condensed Matter Physics Center (IFIMAC), Universidad Autónoma de Madrid, 28049 Madrid, Spain4 School of Physical, Environmental and Mathematical Sciences, University of New South Wales, Canberra ACT 2610, Australia5 Division of Chemistry and Chemical Engineering, Beckman Institute and Kavli Nanoscience Institute, California Institute of Technology, 210 Noyes Laboratory, 127-72, Pasadena, California 91125, USA6 Instituto Madrileño de Estudios Avanzados en Nanociencia (IMDEA-Nanociencia), Cantoblanco, 28049 Madrid, Spain

To read the full article go to: http://aip.scitation.org/doi/10.1063/1.4961257

Give us the SCCoop on our student scholarship winners so we can share the news with all of our members.

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 48

Community Outreach MWSCC

Project Innovation

Providing specialty ingredients to the Personal Care Industries

Suppliers:

www.LipscombChemical.com5150 E. Pacifi c Coast Highway, #600

Long Beach, CA 90804 tel (562) 961-3333 fax (562) 961-5725

LIPSCOMBCHEMICAL COMPANY

A member of the Omya group

Safety Efficacy

[email protected]: (514) 735-3253

Ewa Kulig

www.evalulab.com

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The fourth annual Project I took place on Friday, February 24th at Hadley Junior High School in Glen Ellyn. Project Innovation was organized by the Glenbard West High School STEM club.

Claire Wild and Shay Kiker, repectively a junior and senior at Glenbard West High School, co-founded the student led Project Innovation, or Project I, that is designed for eighth graders who will be attending Glenbard West next year. Claire Wild shared the following message.

“Our overall goal is to inspire these students. First to become involved in STEM related jobs as so many kids understand what an English teacher or a cook does, but can’t visualize an engineer’s job, a creative marketing manager, or a software developer. Secondly, to write their own story. We hope these students will understand the diver-sity of careers available and become well-rounded individuals who can contribute in new and innovative ways, specifically in areas they are passionate about.”Each eighth grade students were given the opportunity to select the four sessions they were interested in attending.

Christine Daraska (Croda), Crystal Rampaul (TH Hilson) and Melissa Tolla (Consultant)attended event on behalf of the MWSCC. We gave information on our background and how we became involved in the cosmetic industry. Christine and Crystal pre-sented their companies and their role in the cosmetic industry chain of commerce. They then conducted a demonstration where each student made their own lotion by mixing oil, water, and an emulsifier.

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 4 9

Community OutreachMWSCC

The Formulation Science research group at Kimberly-Clark recently hosted on site visit from high school chemistry students. The field trip consisted of a short series of presentations followed by a tour of the new formulation laborato-ries. Within the presentations students were provided with an overview of Kimberly-Clark, the cosmetic industry, various careers in cosmetic science as well as the types of college degrees generally obtained to work within the industry. In-formation was also presented on the different classes of cosmetic materials and how those materials are used to build products the students were familiar with such as hand washes and lotions.

The second part of the field trip consisted of a tour of the laboratories where they saw various equipment used within cosmetic research in action. In addition to seeing typical formulation assessments, students were able to see pilot scale equipment, a lotion being created as well as demonstrations of the robotic formulation and stability assessment units. The demonstration of the robotic formulation unit is shown below. Students also participated in product evaluations to give a sense of how what cosmetic chemists do on the bench translates to important product attributes. The picture below shows students evaluating the Kleenex Cool Touch facial tissue product.

Formulation Science in Everyday Personal Care Products & Consumer Goods

Formulation Science has done scientific outreach work for a number of years. This has included visiting local elementary schools to perform basic experiments as well as being an integral part of the annual Take Our Daughters and Sons to work day at K-C. Through these efforts, the Team hopes to demonstrate and promote how science, technology, engi-neering and math are critical in the development of everyday household goods as well as promote education and careers in the industry.

Pictured (left): A lotion being created as well as demonstrations of the robotic formulation and stability assessment units. Pictured (right): Series of presentations provided students with an overview of Kimberly-Clark, the cosmetic industry, various careers in cosmetic science as well as the types of college degrees generally obtained to work within the industry.

Cosmetic containers collected build funds that are donated to the

Girls 4 Science organization

Please continue to collect your cosmetic containers to bring to the meetings!

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 410

MWSCC

NYSCC 2017 Suppliers’ Day

Suppliers’ Day 2017 – New York City: an idea whose time has come!

Premium Ingredients. Custom Solutions.

Kelly Bruski 844 458 7111 lvlomas.com

With over 31 countries represented and attendance nearing 8,000 in 2016, the move to New York City was necessary to best serve the global cosmetic ingredients market-place that is represented at the show. Boasting the highest attended event serving this sector on the East Coast, Suppliers’ Day 2017 will expand its footprint at the Javits Convention Center and certainly increase its reach into the heart of the global beauty and fashion community that resides in NYC and the immediate surrounding areas.

Fueled by the NYSCC’s expertise and leadership, Suppliers’ Day has become the must-attend event for all those seeking business development, education and innovation in cosmetic chemistry. The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists is the leading association representing thousands of buyers and sellers servicing this region – and leads the National Society of Cosmetic Chemists in creating forums for unmatched information exchange. The time is come – the time is now. So start spreading the news – mark your calendars and make plans to attend Suppliers’ Day 2017!

Jacob K. Javits Convention Center655 W 34th St,

New York, NY 10001, USA May 2 - 3, 2017

Taking place for the first time in New York, the 38th Annual New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) Suppliers’ Day is the must-attend event for cosmetic chemists. This includes those involved in ingredient sourcing, formulation experts and marketing sales professionals.  The NYSCC recommends registering now, as this sought after event is quickly filling up

Specialty areas at this year’s Suppliers’ Day include: INNOVATIONS ALLEY: a show-case of the latest ingredients, solutions and technology that are, in many cases, debuting in the U.S. or have not been seen at an event prior to NYSCC Suppliers Day 2017. FUTURE CHEMISTS WORKSHOP: a curated area on the show floor to challenge and reward up and coming cosmetic students. DIGITAL AGE OF BEAUTY: a learning area featuring the technologies driving supply chain innovations, product devel-opment and efficient time-to-market including, 3D printing, data intelligence tools, virtual reality and digital enhancements and filters.

For more information, please visit the New York Chapter’s website at :https://nyscc.org/suppliersday/

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 4 11

MWSCC

Feature Article

Deciphering Sunscreen Labels by Rebecca Wietting

Soon it will be warming up and outdoor pools will be open again as summer approaches. We will need to stock up on sunscreens to protect our skin from sun damage. Depending on how long you have had your sunscreens, you may need to toss them and buy new ones. Typically, sunscreens have a three-year shelf life. If they don’t, the FDA requires an expiration label on the packaging that you can check.

The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) regulates sunscreen products as over-the-counter drugs and has many safety and effectiveness regulations governing the marketing and manufacturing of these products. In 2011, the FDA issued new rules regarding the label “broad spectrum”. This will now mean that products with this claim will include UVA radiation protection status in addition to UVB protection. This rule went into effect for products on the market during the summer of 2012. If a product only uses the SPF (sun protection factor introduced in 1974) statement, then it is only indicating its level of UVB protection. In order to state broad spectrum, the manufacturer of the product must conduct testing on both UVA and UVB radiation protection. As the SPF level increases, the protection from both types of rays must increase. The challenge is that there is currently not a uniform measurement for UVA absorption. There is a uniform measurement for UVB protection. The SPF measures the fraction of sunburn-producing UV rays reaching the skin. To demonstrate, an SPF 30 indicates that 1/30th of the burning radiation reaches the skin when the recommend-ed amount of sunscreen product has been applied.

Sunscreens contain either chemical or physical ingredients. Chemicals such as benzophenone and avobenzone absorb ultraviolet radiation and provide a thin film on the skin. Physical sunblocks such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide re-flect both UVA and UVB rays. Some products contain both types of ingredients providing the most protection.

The definition of water resistance also changed in recent years. Sunscreen labels will indicate either 40 or 80 minutes of protection after swimming or sweating. They cannot claim they last for longer than 2 hours unless proof is submitted to the FDA by the manufacturer of the sunscreen. If sunscreens don’t provide water resistance at all, they have to add a warning label with that information. A label of “water resistant” means the sunscreen is effective for up to 40 minutes in the water. A label of “very water resistant” means the sunscreen is effective for up to 80 minutes in the water. The FDA has banned claims of “waterproof” or “sweat proof” stating that those terms are misleading to consumers.

Sunscreens had to start adding a drug facts box on the side or back of the package similar to other over-the-counter products with actives. Warnings will be included inside the box such as the required statement that SPF less than 15 does NOT protect against skin cancer. This warning would state “skin cancer/skin aging alert” meaning that the sun-screen will only prevent sunburn, and it won’t reduce the risk of cancer or skin aging damage.

Manufacturers of sprayable sunscreens have been asked by the FDA to prove how well their products work when used by consumers. It is more likely that insufficient amounts of sunscreen get applied using a spray rather than a lotion. If this happens, the level of sun protection won’t match the label. There is also a risk of inhalation from sprays so the FDA wants proof that there is no danger from accidental inhalation of sunscreen by children or adults.

On November 29, 2014, former President Obama signed the Sunscreen Innovation Act (SIA) into law. This law was created because of pressure from industry to be able to offer sunscreens that have been on the market in Europe for many years. In the US, manufacturers are limited in which actives they can use in sunscreen products. There have been 8 pending sunscreen active ingredients since 2002 that had no feedback negative or positive from the FDA for over a decade. These eight include the following: bemotrizinol, bisoctrizole, drometrizole trisiloxane, octyl triazone, amiloxate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ecamsule, and enzacamene. The purpose of the SIA was to push the FDA to make deci-sions about the safety and effectiveness of nonprescription sunscreen active ingredients in a more timely fashion. With the new law in place, future ingredients submitted will have to be reviewed by the FDA within one year.

In January of 2015, the FDA met the first requirement of SIA by deciding that six of the eight ingredients were not GRASE (Generally Recognized as Safe and Effective) for use in sunscreens. The FDA wants more data from manufacturers to prove these ingredients are safe and effective. Shortly after that ruling, they made the same determination about the

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 412

MWSCC

Feature Article

Deciphering Sunscreen Labels

other two ingredients. They also created a new web page on the topic of the SIA law and the FDA’s actions. The FDA says the SIA does not change the standards for GRASE nor relax the scientific standards for evaluation of ingredient safety and effectiveness. The SIA requires strict deadlines for the FDA to take action on these ingredients but does not provide addi-tional resources or data required to make these determinations. The FDA requested additional funds from the President’s fiscal year 2016 budget in order to fulfill the SIA requirements. The FDA needs industry to submit sufficient data on the eight ingredients to prove they are GRASE.

Upon reviewing the FDA website, it appears that they simply shifted the burden once again to industry to prove that ingredients are safe and effective. This leaves all eight ingredients still in an unapproved status. The FDA stated on their site that they cannot approve products simply because they have been used for many years in other countries. They are especially concerned that sunscreens are used on children and pregnant women, and therefore, they must receive more data from industry before they can approve GRASE status. The burden then appears to fall on manufacturers to conduct clinical studies that would be extensive and expensive before any new sunscreen active ingredients will be added to the chemists’ arsenal thus limiting the very concept of sunscreen “innovation”.

There are only 16 actives approved by the FDA monograph for use in sunscreens as follows: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, avobenzone, trolamine salicylate, sulisobenzone, octyl salicylate, octyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, menthyl anthrani-late, homosalate, oxybenzone, dioxybenzone, cinoxate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, padimate O, and p-aminoben-zoic acid. Several of these are not approved to be used in European countries or Japan so global manufacturers have to be sure the actives they choose are approved for the regions where they are selling their sunscreen products. Sunscreens with an SPF rating of 15 or higher are allowed by the FDA to claim that they “protect against” skin cancer. The products with the broad spectrum label are allowed to claim they protect against premature skin aging as well. They just can’t state that they block the sun or “prevent” skin aging or skin cancer. Since 2013, the FDA has banned the term “sun-block” in marketing because they felt the term caused consumers to overestimate the level of protection they were receiv-ing.

Although the FDA recommends using sunscreens that are broad spectrum, water-resistant and SPF of 15 or higher, the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) goes one step further to recommend they are at least SPF 30. The AAD states that the average size adult needs to use 1 ounce of sunscreen to cover their body and should reapply every two hours (larger sized people need to use more to get the proper protection). It is estimated that most people do not use enough sunscreen and in fact may only be using one-fourth or one-half of the necessary amount to achieve the SPF rating on the package. The application of sun protection should also be made fifteen minutes before sun exposure.

The most commonly diagnosed cancer in the US is skin cancer or squamous cell carcinomas. Damage is caused by both UVA and UVB radiation. Sunburns develop from UVB rays because it affects the surface layer of the skin. Deeper layers of the skin are impacted by the less intense UVA rays increasing the rate of melanoma and photodermatitis. The UVA rays are the ones who cause our skin to darken providing the “tan” so many people seek. Skin damage leads to skin aging, wrinkles, and skin sagging in addition to the possibility of causing cancer. The AAD says that sunscreens are not sufficient to prevent cancer so they recommend also wearing protective clothing, seeking shade, and wearing sunglasses and hats.

Everyone needs to use sunscreens when they are going to be exposed to the sun regardless of age, race or gender. Darker skintones still need protection just like light skin tones. It is estimatedthat one in five Americans could develop cancer during their life span, so it is important to reduce this number by educating everyone and taking precautions. Keep this in mind as you look forward to enjoying the beautiful summer weather!

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 4 13

MWSCC

MWSCC Ads and Weird Science

MWSCC Classified Ads

Weird Scienceby Marcie Papadakis

Good thing they didn’t have cell phones then!Astonishing geomagnetic spike hit the ancient kingdom of Judah. If this were to happen again today, the electrical grid could be a smoking ruin.By Annalee Newitz - 2/16/2017, 2:48 PM

By analyzing the orientations of the metals in a set of these jar handles with dates from 750 to 150 BCE, the scientists were able to see traces of the geomagnetic field’s behavior. What they found was startling. Sometime late in the 8th century BCE, there was a rapid fluctuation in the field’s intensity over a period of about 30 years—first the intensity increased to over 20 percent of baseline, then plunged to 27 percent under baseline. Though the overall trend at that time was a grad-ual decline in the fields’ intensity similar to what we see today, this spike was basically off the charts.

https://arstechnica.com/science/2017/02/astonishing-geomagnetic-spike-hit-the-ancient-kingdom-of-judah/

The Sweet Smell of Predictive Models for odor – without asking a Perfumer!Rockefeller University used crowdsourcing to amass a million data points on 476 odors to build a model to predict how a molecule will smell.By Rockefeller University | February 21, 2017

You can anticipate a color before you see it, based solely on the length of light waves. Music can be interpreted from notes on a page without being heard. Not so with odor. The only way to tell if something will smell like roses or turpentine, sea breeze or gasoline, is to sniff it. New research, described in Science on February 19, is making the most mysterious of our senses a little more predictable. A project initiated by Rockefeller University scientists and powered by a crowdsourcing effort has devised a mathematical model that can forecast the scent a molecule will evoke.

“This is a centuries-old problem. People have attempted to work around it in many different ways, as you can see in the perfume section of a department store, when the clerks ask ‘do you like something floral?’ or ‘do you like something musky?’” says study researcher Leslie Vosshall, the Robin Chemers Neustein Professor. “We haven’t completely solved the question of how to predict an odor based on the chemical properties of the molecules that convey it, but this is the furthest anyone has pushed toward an explanation,” she adds.

https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2017/02/170221095654.htm

Dolores Kenney owns a collection of the Journal of the SCC startings with the Feb issue of 1963 (Vol. XIV) onward. She is interested to find a new home for these Journals. If you are interested in becoming the new owner, please contact Dolores to make arrangements to pick up the journals. A final decision needs to be made by mid-April. Contact: [email protected]

SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 414

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Application of 2µl of shower gel on wet legs. The gel was rubbed onto the skin for one minute and then rinsed off with a cotton pad. Samples of corneocytes were taken using adhesive test strips before and after applying the shower gel. Each D-squama® was analysed with Monaderm’s software “Quantisquam”. If the shower gel improves desquamation, the number of corneocytes after one minute (t1) is greater than at t0.

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SCCoop April 2017 • Vol XLIX • No. 4 15

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S C C o o pMelissa Tolla, Newsletter EditorMidwest SCC Chapter4740 N. Cumberland Ave. #364Chicago, IL 60656

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