Anja Crabb | MA Fashion & the Environment | London College of Fashion 2012

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◊

MEANING◊

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All photographs author’s own unless otherwise stated.

The starting point of this project was ephemerality; yet after conducting general research in the form of online surveys, it became clear that single-use garments or rarely worn items are kept and treasured due to the memories attached to them. Ideas around memory, meaning-making and material culture became increasingly significant and influential for the concept. Primary Research i.e. asking the public about their wardrobes and meaningful items of clothing, was key to the development of this project. For more precise and relevant responses, the research design was adapted in gathering quantitative responses from focus groups. The participants were people of all ages and backgrounds, including participants of  a community event in Whitechapel, London, as well as young people attending workshops as part of the University’s Outreach Programme.

The question was: ‘Describe an item of clothing you have that is especially meaningful to you - where is it from, what does it look like and why have you kept it?’ The answers are as diverse as they are insightful: clothes are meaningful when they express a world view, are unique designs or particularly old, or when they are practical, comfortable and (pre)loved. Meaning is often attached to garments that are reminders of other people or emotionally meaningful events: a memento of a friend and times together, reminders of grandparents and of childhood or a reminder of a special day, for example a Communion.

The research raised the question: if the meaning of our clothing is currently formed through our personal memories and experience, rather than through its inherent design, how can design in fact facilitate or explicitly visualize this manifestation of memory in fashion?

PREFACE

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Focus group participant at Toynbee Hall, Whitechapel, London, Bring & Fix Event, July 2012

Photograph- Lesley Raven

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◊ DO YOU OWN

AN ITEM OF CLOTHING THAT IS PARTICULARLY

MEANINGFUL TO YOU?

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MY DENIM JACKET FROM A CHARITY SHOP. I’VE HAD IT FOR 10 YEARS, DESTROYED IT WITH STUDS AND PAINT BUT STILL WEAR IT MOST DAYS.

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“ I have a second-hand vintage dress that I bought in 1987. I wore it as a favourite dress around this time but I still have it (it still fits!) and I will wear it occasionally. The reason I like it so much is because of the print, it is striped with foliage/leaves and images of renaissance children playing – I love this pattern.” “ I have an aran knit cardigan, which I bought in a charity shop 9 years ago. It is cream and has the traditional aran knit patterns and a zip through the middle. I wear this cardigan at home when I am cold or in the winder under my coat, it is just really warm and snuggly. It’s very practical as it is 100% wool, so I do not even have to wash it that often.”

“ I have various charms on my necklaces that are meaningful to me as I have either been given them to me as gifts from grandmothers, great-aunts when I was very young, that remind me of them but also of being a child. Some of the charms are inherited pieces that tell a story that have been passed down from generation to generation. Then I have a charm from when I first travelled to Nepal, a little Buddha.”

“ A Moroccan landscape themed sequinned jacket from a vintage market. It’s great! And a big funny scarf from my Granny. “

“ My uncle’s vintage Jean Paul Gaultier white jean jacket. It is important because my uncle has had it for many years and he gave it to me as a gift.”

“ I have an Irish rugby jersey that my dad gave to me when I was about 9. It means a lot to me because I’m 3/4 Irish and I can still wear it.”

MORE STORIES

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“My NASA t-shirt promotes a scientific world view, which is exciting and profound!“

“A pink hoodie from Butlins with my name on it; my auntie bought it for me.”

“I have a communion dress. It doesn’t fit but it is from a special day.I kept it because its memorable and hand made.

“My suit, because it’s my own design.“

“A top from Gilly Hicks, which i have never worn and never thrown out because it was expensive.”

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AN ORANGE T-SHIRT, IT BELONGED TO MY DAD. IT’S VERY OLD AND I WEAR IT TO BED. IT REMINDS ME OF MY CHILDHOOD AND I CAN KEEP A BIT OF MY DAD WITH ME WHEN HE IS NOT AROUND.

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A 1970s TIE-DYED TOP, IT WAS A FLAT-MATE’S WHEN I WAS FIRST A STUDENT AND I KEPT IT AS A MEMENTO OF HER. I DIDN’T WEAR THE TOP BUT I LIKE TO THINK OF HER AND THE TIMES WE SPENT TOGETHER.

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“Creepers – my friends got them for me for my birthday and they are beautiful, lovely, comfy shoes that make me taller.”

“A top with a really nice dip dyed pink bottom bit then the sleeves are cut short with a peace sign in the middle that is really pretty. It expresses me!”

“My converses; they are grey and we have a lot of memories together.”

“My dad’s black creepers he gave to me, he owned them when he was a punk in the 70’s.”

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MORE STORIES

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◊ HOW CAN FASHION

FACILITATE OR VISUALIZE

MANIFESTATIONS OF MEMORY?

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100% recycled stockPhotography - Lesley RavenDesign - williamhuxford.euIllustrations - Emma Erskine-Omigie

Thankyou to all research participants.

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