waltham pocket book of puppy nutrition and care

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WALTHAM® pocket book of

puppy nutrition and care

Edited by Dr. Richard Hill

and Dr. Richard Butterwick


WALTHAM® pocket book of

puppy nutrition and care


Foreword 4

WALTHAM® 5

Introduction 6

Stages of development 6

The neonatal period 6

The transitional period 7

The socialisation period 7

The juvenile period 8

Lactation and weaning 8

Growth rates 9

Feeding a puppy 9

Energy requirements 10

Number of meals per day 10

Puppy nutrition 11

Importance of variety 13

Changing diets 14

Treats 14

Feeding orphaned puppies 15

Choosing and acquiring a puppy 15

Caring for a new puppy 17

Socialisation 17

Training 19

Exercise 21

Health care 22

Oral care 23

Key references 24

Top tips 26

Timeline 27

Contents

Edited by:Dr. Richard Hill MRCVSDr. Richard Butterwick

Written by:Dr. Lucille AlexanderDr. Catherine BuckleyDr. Ralph MerrillDr. Penelope MorrisDr. Abigail StevensonMr. Jonathan Tesh MRCVS

Contact:Dr. Ralph MerrillWALTHAM® Centre for Pet NutritionWaltham-on-the-WoldsLeicestershireLE14 4RT

Illustrations:Beyond Design Solutions Ltd

Publisher:Beyond Design Solutions Ltdwww.beyonddesign.co.uk

DISCLAIMERThis book provides an introduction to key issues relating to puppy nutrition and care. It is not intended as a medical guide and should not be used as an alternative to seeking veterinary consultation or intervention where necessary.

PROPRIETARY AND CONFIDENTIAL FOR MARS INC. AND WITH THE AGREEMENT THAT IT IS NOT TO BE OTHERWISE USED OR REPRODUCED WITHOUT THE PRIOR WRITTEN CONSENT OF MARS, INC. COPYRIGHT© 2012, MARS, INC.ALL RIGHTS INCLUDING TRADE SECRET RIGHTS RESERVED.


Training as the puppy grows should emphasise reward rather than punishment (Page 35). Inappropriate punishment only confuses a dog and may result in a submissive, fearful or unpredictable animal. Dogs love attention so ignoring a dog is more effective than any physical dissuasion. Turning one’s back on a puppy that is jumping up to seek attention is more effective than pushing the dog away; the latter will be interpreted as a reward and encourage further jumping. Instead, a puppy should be positively rewarded with attention or food when it is sitting quietly or doing some other activity that the owner desires.

Veterinarians should always be consulted about the care of a puppy (0). They can assess body condition, give advice about feeding and recommend insurance. The timing of administration of routine medications and vaccines is also critical. Puppies are at increased risk of parvovirus and other viral infections as maternal immunity wanes from 6 to 16 weeks of age. Nearly all puppies are born with round worm infections and start excreting round worm eggs from two weeks of age so parasite control should be discussed with a veterinarian. It is also much easier to begin to teach a dog to allow its teeth to be brushed at an early age rather than later.

Thus, there are many critical moments in a puppy’s life from the time they are born until they reach adulthood. In each instance, to quote Benjamin Franklin, “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”. This booklet provides a time-line for what to expect and should help the reader raise healthy, happy and well adjusted puppies.

Dr. Richard HillAssociate Professor and Service Chief of Small Animal Internal Medicine and Clinical NutritionUniversity of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine

ForewordRaising a puppy - a critical time for health and happiness

Everyone enjoys playing with a puppy. Puppies are so full of energy and enthusiasm. Puppyhood

is, however, a critical time. Puppies soon grow into large and demanding dogs with sharp teeth.

Mistakes during this critical time period can fundamentally change a puppy’s relationship with

people and other dogs and also infl uence their health and wellbeing. This booklet provides a

succinct and readable introduction to key steps in the nutritional and behavioural development

of puppies.

How a puppy is fed is critical for future health. A puppy that does not receive antibodies from his mother’s milk immediately after birth has impaired immune function, making it much less able to fi ght off and survive infections (Page 9). A puppy that is fed a diet without suffi cient calcium will develop soft bones that are easily fractured, whereas a large breed puppy that is fed too much calcium is likely to develop joint problems (Page 21). Overfeeding of puppies is a common issue that can have long term consequences for the mature adult. Treats are a useful tool for training and are fun to give, but owners need to use these responsibly as too many treats can cause obesity or nutrient imbalances. Obesity is the most common nutritional health issue in adult dogs. There is now good evidence that keeping large breed dogs trim from the time they are puppies can increase lifespan by an average of two years and markedly reduce the incidence of arthritis. It is much better to prevent obesity than to cure it. Fat usually accumulates gradually as a result of small excesses in calorie intake over many years, whereas noticeable weight loss over a few months requires a 30% reduction in food intake. Weight loss is especially diffi cult in large breed dogs because a 30% reduction in intake results in half the weight loss that it does in a small breed dog. Females are at particular risk of gaining weight when they are neutered because appetite increases and energy requirements decline as a consequence of neutering. It is vital, therefore, to restrict the amount of food fed to puppies to keep puppies lean. Some guidelines as to how much to feed are provided (Page 16 and 17) but there is considerable variation in the energy requirements of individual dogs. It is essential to adjust the amount fed to ensure a lean body condition. Owners should remember that a plump puppy is probably overweight.

It is a sad fact that an astonishingly large number of dogs are relinquished to animal shelters. Some dogs are relinquished because they do not fi t an owner’s lifestyle so choosing the right puppy can be important (Page 27). More commonly, dogs relinquished to shelters have behaviour problems that originate from when they were puppies. The socialisation period from 3 to12 weeks of age (Page 11) is critical for behavioural development. The practice of separating a puppy from its mother before eight weeks of age should be strongly discouraged because early separation can result in an adult dog which does not interact well with other dogs. Similarly, inadequate exposure to human beings before 12 weeks of age can result in a dog that does not interact well with people. It is possible to socialise dogs later in life but doing so is diffi cult and time consuming so knowing how to socialise a puppy is important (Page 31).

4 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Foreword


For nearly 50 years WALTHAM® has been a leading authority within the fi eld of cat and dog nutrition. WALTHAM® science and publications have been instrumental in defi ning the nutrient requirements of cats and dogs. Ensuring that the daily nutrient intake meets those requirements to sustain a healthy life is never more important than during the phases of growth and development. The nutrition and care received in the early days can have a lasting impact on the health and wellbeing for the rest of a pet’s life. For this reason, WALTHAM® continues to invest in research to understand the nutrient requirements of growing pets in addition to those required throughout adult life.

WALTHAM® scientists work in partnership with the pets at the WALTHAM® Centre for Pet Nutrition to conduct pet-focussed research that supports Mars Petcare. This work delivers scientifi c breakthroughs in the area of pet nutrition, health, wellbeing and behaviour.

In collaboration with global scientifi c institutes and experts, the WALTHAM® team of scientists, carers and trainers support leading Mars Petcare brands such as Whiskas®, Pedigree®, Trill®, Cesar®, Sheba®, Aquarian®, Winergy®, Nutro® and Royal Canin.

Understanding the unique nutrition and care needs of the growing puppy is essential for ensuring that puppies develop into healthy, sociable and well-mannered adult dogs. This book aims to provide a valuable introduction into the nutrition and care requirements of the growing dog and to provide practical advice for anyone interested in pets, from the pet owner to those working within the pet food industry.

www.waltham.com

WALTHAM®

High quality innovative science, conducted in a caring way

5 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – WALTHAM®


Stages of developmentFrom newborn to adult

The development of puppies can be divided into four distinct stages: the neonatal period; the transitional period; the socialisation period; and the juvenile period1. These developmental periods are followed by adulthood.

IntroductionThe importance of puppy nutrition and care

Many years of scientifi c research have established that the essential nutrient requirements of the growing puppy differ from those of the adult dog. It is now also well documented that dog size infl uences the duration of the puppy growth phase, with smaller breed puppies maturing much more quickly than larger breeds. Provision of a diet designed specifi cally for puppies throughout the growth phase will provide the best start towards a long and healthy life.

Alongside nutrition, establishing a high quality care regimen that includes socialisation and training has also been shown to be essential to ensure a puppy develops into a well mannered adult dog that is a pleasure to be around. Early socialisation experiences will leave a lasting impression upon a puppy.

Veterinary care is also essential for growing puppies to ensure they remain fi t and healthy. Owners should discuss vaccinations, parasite control and neutering with their veterinarian, as well as any other concerns they may have. Provision of a well designed nutrition and care regimen in the early days will have a positive impact for the rest of a dog’s life.

The Neonatal Period

(birth to 2 weeks of age)

Through this period puppies are relatively helpless, relying entirely on their mother.

At this stage, the majority of a puppy’s time is spent either sleeping or eating. Puppies’ eyes and ears are closed when they are born but they are sensitive to touch and smell. The eyes open at around 10 days old but puppies do not respond to light and moving stimuli until the transitional period (two to three weeks of age).

Neonatal puppies have limited movement and are only capable of a slow crawl. They are not yet able to stand and support the weight of their body. During this period a puppy will actively seek its mother. If separated from its mother, a puppy will start to vocalise and crawl, swinging its head from side to side in an attempt to fi nd her. At this stage puppies have a reduced ability to regulate their body temperature and so rely on their mother and littermates for body heat.

During this period puppies are only able to feed by suckling from the mother. It is essential that puppies consume colostrum in the mother’s milk within the fi rst 24 hours after birth, as this provides essential antibodies. Urinating and defecating is stimulated by the mother licking the anogenital region, and she keeps the nest area clean by eating any waste products.

Handling puppies for short periods during the fi rst two weeks of age has been shown to be benefi cial to their behaviour later in life.

6 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Introduction / Stages of Development



7

The Transitional Period

(2 to 3 weeks of age)

This stage lasts for one week and is a time of signifi cant change for a puppy. Over this time the eyes begin to respond to light and movement. The ear canals open at approximately eighteen to twenty days of age. Movement skills improve and puppies start to walk and stand. Social behaviours, such as growling, tail wagging and play fi ghting begin to develop over this period. Investigative behaviour also begins and by the end of the transitional period puppies respond to humans and other animals. Instead of only vocalising in response to cold or hunger, this now also occurs when a puppy fi nds itself in an unfamiliar environment.

Lapping and chewing behaviours also begin to develop. Puppies start to show some interest in trying their mother’s food, although all their nutrition still comes from the mother’s milk. By the end of the transitional period puppies are able to urinate and defecate without their mother’s stimulation, and often leave the nest to do this.

As with the neonatal period, regular handling of puppies for a few minutes each day has been shown to be benefi cial to their behaviour later in life.

The Socialisation Period

(3 to 12 weeks of age2)

The experiences encountered during this stage, negative or positive, can have profound effects on the behaviour of a dog later in life. Over this time puppies are more sensitive to socialisation. Similar to the transitional stage this period is full of changes, particularly in puppies’ social behaviour.

Many behavioural changes occur at this stage. The most notable of these is the appearance of play signals that increase in complexity throughout the socialisation period. Investigative behaviour begins to increase. Puppies will readily approach new people and situations with interest, willingly interacting with humans.

The socialisation period is particularly infl uential in the development of a stable temperament in the adult dog. During this phase, puppies are very willing to experience new situations and environments, and thorough socialisation and habituation to novel circumstances will help prevent fearful reactions when adult. Many social and behavioural problems observed in adult dogs are believed to be linked with poor treatment or insuffi cient interaction during this stage of puppy development. If puppies do not have the breadth of experience needed, they may subsequently approach new situations with fear.

Puppies begin to sleep less and play more. Predatory actions develop, such as pouncing, shaking and stalking of both their littermates and inanimate objects. It is during this stage that puppies begin to learn to control their bite. This control develops through a ‘yelping’ response of their playmate, thus letting the puppy know the bite was too hard.

Puppies also become much more vocal during this time with the appearance of play barking and growling in addition to distress vocalisations. Vocalising for the attention of their mother still occurs, though to a much lesser extent than in the neonatal and transitional stages.

The milk teeth begin to appear at three to four weeks of age and puppies increasingly eat solid food. As they make the transition onto solid food puppies need access to drinking water. The mother will gradually begin to discourage her puppies from suckling and the litter will be fully weaned by six to eight weeks old.

The best time for puppies to leave their mother and littermates and go to their new home is around eight weeks of age. Being separated from its mother earlier than this may be detrimental as a puppy may not be fully weaned and will also miss out on important social development time with its mother and littermates. Rehoming later than eight weeks may mean that new owners miss out on important socialisation time.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Stages of development


8 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Stages of development / Lactation and weaning


Lactation and weaningThe transition from milk to solid food

The Juvenile Period

(12 weeks to adulthood)

By the time the juvenile period is reached, most of the major changes have taken place. A puppy, however, is still growing and physiological changes are occurring that may not be apparent to the owner.

All of the sense organs are fully developed at the onset of this stage and the rate of growth slows. The milk teeth are replaced by adult teeth and this is usually complete by seven months of age.

Puppies have similar motor skills to adults by the age of six months, although this can vary according to the individual dog and their environment. Socialisation should continue and a training programme should be formalised. Puppies have a short attention span and may be excitable. Training, therefore, should be short, consistent and fun.

Sexual maturity is marked by the fi rst season in bitches and the ability to achieve a fertile mating in dogs. This usually occurs at around six to seven months, although males may show sexual interest in females before this point. However, even though they are sexually mature and may be close to their full size, puppies are still developing and are not considered adults at this stage. This is a good time for owners to discuss neutering options with their veterinarian.

The length of the juvenile period varies according to breed size. Smaller breeds reach adulthood at around one year. Large and giant breed dogs mature more slowly and are not considered fully adult until 18 to 24 months.

Mothers generally suckle their puppies for at least six weeks. For the fi rst four weeks of life all of a puppy’s nutritional needs are met by the mother’s milk.

Weaning begins between two and three weeks of age when a puppy will start to show an interest in its mother’s food and lap water from a bowl. Puppies can be offered fi nely chopped wet puppy food, dry food that has been softened with water or a specifi c weaning product such as a complete and balanced puppy porridge. Foods offered during weaning need to be specifi cally formulated for puppies. Offering small amounts of food during the early stages of weaning helps a puppy’s digestive system adapt from milk to solid food and reduces the demands on the mother. It is essential that puppies are offered puppy food by 4 weeks of age as the nutrient content and the quantity of milk are no longer appropriate to support healthy puppy growth if fed exclusively. Puppies become fully weaned by 6-8 weeks of age, after which they are ready to leave their mother.


WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Growth rates / Feeding a puppy

Growth ratesHealthy not maximal

9

Different sizes of dogs grow at different rates and become adult at different times. A toy breed dog is fully grown in less than one year whereas a giant breed dog can take almost two years to achieve its adult size. All dogs grow rapidly during the fi rst few months before slowing to a reduced rate of growth3,4. Even after a puppy reaches its adult bodyweight further physiological developments continue for some time.

Puppies have different nutritional requirements compared to adult dogs and it is important that puppies are fed a suitable diet for growth. It is also essential that puppies receive the correct number of calories to support their rapid growth.

Puppies need to grow at a healthy rather than at a maximal rate. Puppies that grow too quickly are more likely to develop skeletal disorders, such as hip dysplasia, as well as becoming predisposed to obesity and its clinical consequences. It is particularly important that large and giant breeds grow at a slower rate than small breeds because they are particularly at risk of the skeletal disorders associated with rapid growth.

The optimal rate of growth for particular breeds of dogs is a controversial research area. The following approximate rates of growth for different sizes of dog are recommended.

Percentage of adult weight

Age in months

Small & medium

breeds mature weight

<25Kg

Large breeds

mature weight

25-45Kg

Giant breeds

mature weight

>45Kg

1 9% 7% 6%

2 22% 20% 14%

3 37% 35% 26%

4 52% 48% 38%

5 61% 57% 49%

6 70% 65% 60%

9 83% 77% 70%

12 95% 88% 80%

15 Adult 94% 90%

18 Adult 100% 100%

21 Adult Adult Adult

Feeding a puppyFuel for growth

Energy Requirements

Although energy requirements vary with breed, newly weaned puppies require approximately twice as much energy per Kg bodyweight when compared with adult dogs. This reduces to 1.6 times the energy when puppies reach 50% of their adult body weight and 1.2 times the energy when puppies reach 80% of their adult bodyweight. This can often mean that the same amount of food is offered, despite the puppy signifi cantly increasing in size. For example, a Labrador puppy with an expected adult body weight of 30Kg requires the same number of calories at both 6 months and 9 months of age despite weighing 3.5 Kg more.

The National Research Council (NRC) gives the following equation to estimate the energy requirements of puppies4.

Where W = actual body weight in KgWm = predicted mature adult weight in Kgp = W/Wm e = base of natural log ~2.718

(1Kg = 2.2lbs)

Energy = 130W0.75 X 3.2[e (-0.87p) - 0.1]

Table 1: Recommendations for growth rates of various sizes of dogs. Adapted from NRC (2006). (1Kg=2.2lbs)


WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Feeding a puppy

The table below provides an estimate of the energy requirements in kilocalories of puppies based on predicted growth rates and the NRC energy requirement equation4.

It is important to note that these fi gures are merely a guide and adjustments must be made according to an individual puppy’s growth rate to maintain an ideal body condition score. Owners should consult their veterinarian if they have any questions or concerns about their puppy’s growth.

Number of meals per day

A young puppy has a small stomach therefore it is essential to offer small meals frequently to ensure that they can meet their high calorie requirements.

The change in feeding pattern is dependent on the individual puppy. Owners should consult their veterinarian if they are unsure.

Birth to three weeks Puppies rely solely on their mother’s milk.

Three to eight weeks (weaning)

Puppies begin to take solid food. Puppies should be allowed free access to appropriate food in between suckling from their mother. During the latter stage of weaning it is advisable to feed puppies without their mother present. This will stop the mother eating and regurgitating food.

Eight weeks to four months

Puppies should be fed every 4 hours during a 16 hour day, with the fi rst meal given early in the morning. After ten weeks meal frequency can be gradually reduced from four to three meals per day.

Four to six months Meal frequency can be reduced to twice daily.

After six monthsThe adult feeding regime (one or two meals per day) can gradually be established.


Age in months

Exp

ect

ed

ad

ult

we

igh

t (k

g)

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

55

60

65

70

56 97 123 137 140 141 adult adult adult adult adult





216 372 473 524 537 542 535 adult adult adult adult







532 1030 1349 1498 1551 1576 1575 1543 1516 adult adult

610 1181 1547 1718 1778 1807 1806 1769 1738 adult adult

685 1325 1737 1928 1996 2029 2027 1986 1951 adult adult

757 1465 1919 2132 2206 2242 2241 2195 2157 adult adult

744 1299 1836 2146 2341 2431 2455 2437 2385 2306 adult

805 1406 1987 2342 2533 2631 2657 2637 2581 2495 adult

865 1510 2134 2515 2721 2826 2854 2833 2772 2680 adult

923 1612 2278 2685 2904 3016 3047 3024 2959 2861 adult

980 1712 2419 2851 3084 3203 3236 3211 3142 3038 adult

1036 1810 2557 3014 3260 3386 3420 3395 3322 3211 adult

1 2 3 4 5 6 9 12 15 18 21

Giant = adult weightof >45kg

Large = adult weight of >25kg, up to 45kg

Small & medium = adult weight up to 25kg

Toy = adult weight up to and including 5kg

Table shows energy requirements expressed in kcal per day

Table 2: Recommendations for daily energy intake (kcal) for growing puppies, adapted from NRC (2006)

10


11 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Feeding a puppy

Puppy NutritionPuppies have nutrient requirements that are different from those of adult dogs. A nutritionally complete and balanced diet specifi cally formulated for puppies must be fed until adulthood. This may be provided by feeding either a wet or dry format or a mixture of the two. One of the most common causes of nutritional issues in puppies is switching to adult diets before puppies are fully mature.

Certain nutrients are particularly important during growth and it is key that a puppy receives the right balance of nutrients from the following groups. If intake of a nutrient is below the minimum requirement then health may deteriorate due to defi ciency. If intake is above the maximum requirement, then health may be compromised due to excess.

WaterWater is the most vital nutrient for life and is a major constituent of an animal’s body, making up 75% of the body mass at birth. Water has a role in all major physiological functions including providing a medium for transportation and delivery of nutrients, regulation of body temperature and lubrication of joints, eyes and the inner ear. Puppies receive the water they need via the mother’s milk prior to weaning and, after this time, should be given access to fresh drinking water in a suitable container appropriate for their size. If puppies do not receive an adequate water intake, they will show signs of dehydration such as neck skin that stays tented when gently pinched, lethargy or a dry mouth.


Protein and amino acidsProtein provides amino acids which are the building blocks for growth. Puppies require signifi cantly more protein than adult dogs and this is particularly important during the rapid growth phase up to 14 weeks of age. An insuffi cient supply of protein will result in poor growth and development. As well as ensuring the puppy receives an adequate supply of total protein, it is important that they receive the right amino acids in the right amounts. There are 10 essential amino acids for puppies which means they must be supplied in the diet because the puppy cannot synthesise them4. Some of the key amino acids are detailed below:

LysineThis is an amino acid used for the synthesis of proteins so is vital during growth when new tissues are being generated. An insuffi cient dietary supply of lysine will result in poor growth and a reduced food intake. Too much lysine in the diet can cause signs of arginine defi ciency (another amino acid) such as muscle tremors and vomiting4,5,6.

TryptophanThis amino acid is a precursor of niacin (vitamin B3) in dogs and is also required for the production of serotonin and melatonin which act to balance mood and sleep patterns. Tryptophan is also a building block of protein and a defi ciency of this amino acid in the growing puppy has been shown to reduce weight gain4,7,8.

MethionineMethionine is often the fi rst limiting amino acid in diet formulation. It is an important precursor for both cysteine and taurine and is also involved in the production of the antioxidant molecule glutathione and carnitine. A defi ciency of methionine can lead to an immediate reduction in food intake, severe weight loss and skin problems4,7,9.

minimumrequirement

Health

Intake

defi ciency

maximumrequirement

excess


12 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Feeding a puppy


Fat and fatty acids

Fat is an important source of energy for fuelling growth. With approximately twice as many calories per gram when compared to protein or carbohydrate, fat represents a highly concentrated source of energy. As such, puppies have a higher daily fat requirement when compared to adult dogs to provide energy for this demanding lifestage4. Fats are made up of chains of fatty acids, some of which are considered essential for the healthy development of puppies:

Docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA) (omega-3 fatty acids)These polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) are termed omega-3 fatty acids and, although there is debate around their essentiality in adult dogs, there is evidence that they are required for the normal development of the brain and nervous system of the puppy as it grows in the womb. Analysis of the mother’s milk has shown the presence of DHA which is known to be benefi cial in the maturation of the nervous system in the growing animal. For these reasons, it is essential that puppies receive a supply of DHA, and its precursor EPA, from birth to adulthood 4,10.

Linoleic acid (LA) and arachidonic acid (AA) (omega-6 fatty acids)Puppies need a supply of LA to develop and maintain a healthy skin and coat. Although adult dogs can synthesise suffi cient quantities of AA from dietary LA, puppies are less effi cient at this process and so also need a dietary supply of AA4.

Minerals

Puppies have specifi c mineral requirements that differ from those of adult dogs. Of particular importance are the amounts of calcium and phosphorus, required to form healthy bones and teeth.

Calcium and phosphorusThe amounts of both calcium and phosphorus and the balance of these minerals are of particular importance in puppies due to their role in the active formation of bones and teeth during the growth phase4. Too much or too little calcium results in abnormal bone development which can cause severe pain. Large and giant breed dogs are most susceptible to excess calcium in the diets and, therefore, stricter control is required in their diets11. High levels of calcium can also reduce the absorption of phosphorus in the diet so the ratio of calcium to phosphorus must be tightly controlled. The ratio of calcium and phosphorus is also important for determining the requirements of vitamin D in growing puppies.

ZincZinc plays a role in skin health and protein metabolism. If puppies do not have an appropriate zinc intake their growth is impaired and they will show signs of poor skin condition such as lesions appearing on the foot pads4,12,13.

IronThe primary role of iron is in the synthesis of haemoglobin and myoglobin where it functions to transport oxygen around the body. Iron also functions in a number of enzyme systems that are required in the production of energy. During growth, puppies are manufacturing large numbers of red blood cells therefore their need for iron is greater than that for adult dogs. If a puppy is not receiving enough iron symptoms such as poor growth, lethargy, weakness and diarrhoea may be observed4,14.


13


Vitamins

Puppies have vitamin requirements that differ from those of adult dogs.

Vitamin DOne of the major roles of vitamin D is in the formation of healthy bones. Too little vitamin D results in rickets, characterised by bowed, extremely painful limbs4. Unlike humans, dogs cannot convert vitamin D to the active form using sunlight and are, therefore, reliant on their diet to provide this nutrient.

Vitamin ARequired for healthy vision, vitamin A is also involved in protein synthesis and is, therefore, critical for animals during growth4. A defi ciency of vitamin A in puppies has also been shown to result in deafness15.

Ensuring that a puppy is fed a variety of different fl avours and types of food can be benefi cial as it may help prevent fussy eaters when adult.

A varied diet can be comprised of different food formats (wet, dry or semi-moist), fl avours or textures. When fed correctly wet, dry and semi-moist puppy diets are all carefully designed to provide the right nutrients in the right amounts. Exposure to variety early in life can result in dogs being more accepting of different diets when adult and can help to prevent an adverse response if a diet change is required.

Importance of varietyFormats and fl avours

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Feeding a puppy / Importance of variety

Vitamin A


14

Digestive upset is common in puppies. Rapid diet switches, in addition to other causes such as infectious agents, can lead to loose faeces, diarrhoea or vomiting.

The required portion size varies greatly between wet and dry diets because dry foods are more calorie dense. For this reason a gradual transition from one food type to another is recommended to allow time for adjustment.

When transitioning a puppy from one food type to another, it is recommended that the diet is gradually changed over a period of four to seven days, although some dogs may need longer. This should be achieved by adding a small proportion of the new diet to the puppy’s regular diet on the fi rst day. The proportion of the new diet should be gradually increased each day, so that it makes up half of the puppy’s food on day four and the whole meal by day seven.

A number of dog treats may deliver a functional benefi t such as supporting oral health or joint health. If feeding these, it is essential to check the manufacturer’s guidelines to ensure they are appropriate for a puppy’s age. Owners should also take care to ensure functional treats are fed at the recommended daily allowance.

If feeding a complete and balanced puppy diet, vitamin and mineral supplements may lead to a nutritional imbalance. Supplementation is not recommended unless advised by a veterinarian.

Changing dietsAvoiding digestive upset

➡ ➡

TreatsMaking treats part of a healthy dietTreats are particularly useful for training, but due to the risks of overfeeding, and nutritional imbalances their use must be carefully controlled. No more than 10% of the calories in a puppy’s diet should come from dog treats which must be appropriate for their age. It is also essential to adjust the amount of main meal fed accordingly when feeding treats, to ensure the recommended daily calorie intake is not exceeded. The use of human foods should be avoided due to the risk of nutritional imbalances.

Day 1 Day 4 Day 7

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Changing diets / Treats


15

Feeding orphaned puppiesTaking the mother’s role

Mother’s milk provides complete nutrition during the fi rst four weeks of a puppy’s life. However, there are situations in which it may be necessary to hand rear puppies, such as when they are orphaned or when a mother has a large litter and cannot produce enough milk.

Caring for orphaned puppies is a large undertaking and veterinary advice is recommended. Puppies under the age of 38 days have a reduced ability to regulate their body temperature and will need a temperature controlled environment. Puppies initially need feeding every two hours with a milk substitute specifi cally designed for puppies and also stimulation of the anogenital area to provoke defecation and urination.

Puppies must be fed milk designed specifi cally to meet their nutritional needs. Milk from cows or goats must not be fed as the protein, fat and calcium levels are unsuitable. Milk substitutes must be prepared according to the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure the correct nutrition and energy requirements are provided. Milk substitutes should not be fed to puppies who are receiving adequate nutrition from their mother’s milk as this may lead to excessive energy intake or a nutritional imbalance.

Choosing and acquiring a puppyEnsuring a suitable match

There are several hundred dog breeds to choose from even before considering the further possibility of cross-breeds. Although it is tempting to base puppy choice on aesthetically pleasing attributes, selecting the right breed of puppy should be based on a number of factors that will help to decide which type of dog suits the owner’s lifestyle best.

Different dog breeds have been selected over many generations for specifi c behavioural and physical traits required to perform specifi c tasks. It is important to understand the behavioural and physical characteristics of each type in order to decide which one best fi ts with an owner’s lifestyle. For instance, breeds within the herding category are intelligent, highly active and require plenty of mental stimulation which may be achieved via training. Guarding breeds may be large, less active and sometimes more territorial as they have been bred to alert their owners to intruders. Many toy breeds were bred solely for their affectionate temperament and are often small, making them ideal breeds for small households or apartments. A number of factors should be taken into consideration when selecting a puppy to ensure the best possible outcome in terms of the relationship:

How much space does an owner have?

The size of an owner’s house and garden and the availability of open spaces nearby for exercise will infl uence the type of dog an owner should choose.

How much exercise will a dog need?

Owners must consider if they are able to give a dog the exercise he needs. Some breeds, such as the border collie, need more exercise than others. However, size is not always a good refl ection of the amount of exercise needed. Some giant breeds, such as mastiffs for example, need less exercise than smaller breeds such as terriers.

How much will it cost?

The initial cost of a puppy must be taken into account, but other costs continue for the rest of its life. The daily cost of feeding a small dog is obviously less than that for giant dogs. Budgeting is also needed for veterinary visits (for both routine check-ups and unexpected problems), kennelling during holidays and regular grooming sessions for certain breeds. The cost of pet health insurance will also vary according to breed or type of dog.

How much experience of dogs?

New dog owners should not opt for breeds which are diffi cult to train or which easily intimidate their owners.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Feeding orphaned puppies / Choosing and acquiring a puppy


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Long or short hair?

Long haired dogs need regular grooming to keep their coat clean and in good condition. The coats of short haired dogs need less attention and are more manageable in wet weather. Some breeds need regular hair clipping to keep their coat in good condition.

Male or female?

Male dogs tend to be larger than females. Females come into season twice a year as part of their reproductive cycle unless they are neutered or some other form of oestrous control is used.

Choosing a puppy

Observing a puppy with his littermates will provide an idea of his personality and temperament which can have a bearing on how well he will fi t into his new home. Owners should try to include as many of the household members as possible in the selection of a puppy. Ideally, a puppy should be viewed with the mother and, if possible, a potential owner should ask to see the father as well. This may help give an idea of a puppy’s size and temperament when adult.

Owners may choose to acquire their puppy from a breeder, a private home, a dog shelter or a reputable pet shop. Whilst any of these may be appropriate, they all have differences which need to be considered. It may be helpful for a potential owner to carry out some research and prepare some questions. For example:

• How old will the puppies be when they are ready to be homed?• How has the puppy been socialised so far?• Has the puppy been introduced to cats or children?• What diet is the puppy being fed?• What is the worming and vaccination history of the puppy?• If buying from a reputable pet shop a potential owner should ask if they may speak to the original breeder for more information if required.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Choosing and acquiring a puppy


Caring for a new puppyProviding a new home

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SocialisationPreparing for life

Eight weeks old is a good time to home a puppy as this is still within the window of socialisation during which he is most receptive and adaptive to new experiences.

When an owner acquires a new puppy they should ask for a week’s supply of the diet he is fed from the breeder so that they can continue to feed it for the fi rst few days and then transition gradually to a new diet if they choose to.

There are a number of essential items that are needed prior to obtaining a new puppy:

• A bed which is easily washable• A feeding bowl and water bowl• A collar and lead. These will need replacing as the puppy grows• Toys that are safe for puppies• Suitable restraint for travelling in a car, such as a dog guard, puppy crate or dog seat belt harness• Grooming equipment.

There are a number of ways in which the owner can help him adapt to the new surroundings. Using an item that contains the scent of the mother, such as a piece of bedding, can help provide a puppy with a familiar environment when entering the new home. Placing the bed in a puppy pen or crate can give the puppy an area where he may feel secure and provides a safe place for him to be left unsupervised at night and for short periods during the day.

Good socialisation involves introducing the puppy to the world and is one of the most important things owners can do to ensure that their puppy grows up into a happy healthy dog. The main aim of socialisation is to introduce puppies to a wide range of different people, dogs, objects and situations. Puppies should be familiarised with anything that they might encounter in later life. All of these things should be encountered in a positive way so that the puppies do not become frightened. A well socialised puppy should be able to cope with new things that he may experience in later life.

The period from 3 to 12 weeks of age is a particularly important time for young puppies because at this age they are highly sensitive to the benefi cial effects of socialisation2. As owners usually take their new puppy home at seven or eight weeks of age, it is the responsibility of a good breeder to ensure that they do everything they can to socialise their puppies before they are homed. Although 3 to 12 weeks of age is the most important time for socialisation to occur, socialisation should not stop at the end of this period; puppies and adult dogs benefi t from socialisation throughout their lives.

Meeting peoplePeople come in all shapes and sizes and puppies need to meet lots of different people to ensure that they are confi dent with all humans when older. One of the best ways for an owner to ensure that their puppy becomes confi dent with people is to invite lots of different people to their house. It is also important for puppies to meet people of different ages, particularly children. It is important that encounters with children are controlled so that the children do not overwhelm or frighten the puppy.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Caring for a new puppy / Socialisation



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Meeting other animals

Puppies need to meet and interact with other puppies and older dogs so that they learn appropriate behaviour. This is important in preventing them from becoming frightened and potentially aggressive towards other dogs in later life. Owners should ensure that any adult dogs their puppy meets are well socialised and trustworthy with puppies, as it is essential to avoid negative experiences with other dogs. It is also essential that any adult dogs a puppy meets are healthy and fully vaccinated.

If a puppy is to live with other animals in the household such as cats then he needs to encounter them at an early age while carefully restrained to learn that they should not chase them. Similarly, it can be benefi cial to allow a puppy to see livestock, while being prevented from chasing them, so that he learns that they are of little interest.

Novel situations and objects

Owners should familiarise their puppy with any objects that they may encounter in their daily life, particularly anything they may fi nd frightening, such as vacuum cleaners, washing machines, televisions, umbrellas, bicycles and traffi c. It is important to introduce the puppy to lots of different situations so that he learns there is nothing to be afraid of.

Travelling in a car

Owners must always ensure that their dog is appropriately restrained using a suitable dog guard, travelling crate or dog seat belt harness in the car. It is best to start with short journeys that end with enjoyable experiences such as going for a walk. Owners may fi nd that allowing their puppy to eat some food or play with a favourite toy in the back of the car whilst the car is stationary helps him learn that it is a great place to be.

Being alone

It is really important to get puppies comfortable with being left alone for limited periods. Owners should begin by leaving their puppy alone in a room for a couple of minutes and gradually increase the amount of time. The time alone should be a positive thing, so providing suitable play toys in their absence will help to keep him occupied. An owner should start leaving the house for short periods and gradually increase the amount of time the puppy is left. The length of time alone should be varied so the puppy learns that the owner leaving doesn’t always mean they will be gone for a long time. When leaving him alone it is important not to make lots of fuss saying goodbye; it is better to simply leave as if nothing is happening. On returning, it can help to ignore the puppy for a few minutes so he is not rewarded for any over-excitable behaviour. If he has had an accident and messed in the house owners should simply clean it up as if nothing has happened, and never punish him for it. It may also help to leave a radio on whilst out, so they have background distractions and so the home is not so quiet. This will also drown out any noises coming from outside that the puppy may react to.

Health checking and handling

Owners need to train their puppy to enjoy being handled by gently and calmly moving their hands all over his body. An owner should begin to look at his eyes, in his ears, open his mouth and gently feel each of his paws. All this should be done very calmly, giving plenty of praise and treats. This should get the puppy used to the way a veterinarian might examine them.

Long haired puppies should be introduced to brushing, so that they learn that it is an enjoyable experience, and breeds that may require hair clipping should be introduced to the sound of electric clippers so that they are not frightened the fi rst time they go to the groomers.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Socialisation


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TrainingReward good behaviour - ignore unwanted behaviour

Puppy parties and training classesPuppy parties and training classes are a great way to start socialising and training a puppy. Here owners can get good advice on basic training and puppies can meet a wide range of other puppies of all shapes and sizes, as well as different people. Puppy classes should be well structured and organised and should not just be a free play session for puppies as this can frighten young or less confi dent puppies. In addition, class sizes should be limited to no more than 10 puppies. Veterinarians can often recommend where to fi nd good puppy classes.

It is never too early to start training a puppy. However, very young puppies get tired and distracted easily so this must be remembered when trying to train your puppy. A veterinarian should be able to recommend a good puppy training class. Good training starts with a formula of rewarding good behaviour and ignoring unwanted behaviour. Most dogs crave attention and even negative attention, such as scolding or shouting, can be rewarding and encourage further unwanted behaviour. Owners should not use punishment as it is a less effective training method and can lead to further problems.

Training to sitAn effective way to teach your puppy to sit is to lure him into a sitting position using a treat. When the puppy is standing the owner should hold a treat just in front of his nose and then slowly lift the treat up and over his head. He should follow the treat with his nose and tip his head back as he follows it, resulting in him putting his bottom on the ground. He should be rewarded by giving the treat and praise as soon as his bottom touches the ground.


WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Socialisation / Training


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Training to lie down

A good method to teach the down position is to hold a treat just in front of the puppy’s nose when he is sitting and slowly lower it down to between his front legs. This should lure him into a down position. He should be rewarded with the treat and praise as soon as he is lying down.

Training to come when called

Recall is an important lesson for puppies to learn at an early age. This can be taught by asking a friend to hold the puppy while the owner walks backwards a short distance and crouches down. The puppy should be allowed to see that the owner has a treat in their hand and then the owner should call the puppy. The friend should release the puppy as soon as he is called. The puppy should be rewarded immediately when he reaches the owner with the treat and praise. This should be repeated, gradually increasing the distance, varying the location and with various levels of distraction.

Wearing a collar

A collar should be introduced as soon as possible and efforts made to teach the puppy to walk on a lead. Choosing the right size is important. The collar should fi t so that two fi ngers easily fi t underneath it. The collar is likely to need replacing as the puppy grows.

Walking on the lead

It is important for puppies to learn to walk on the lead without pulling so that both the puppy and the owner enjoy walks. When the lead is fi rst attached, the puppy should be briefl y allowed to drag it around. Next, the owners should pick up the end of the lead and let the puppy feel the resistance. A puppy should learn that pulling on the lead results in stopping rather than going forward. Owners should attach a lead to the collar and then encourage their puppy to stand near their side. The owner should then attract the puppy’s attention by saying his name and start walking forward. When the puppy is walking by the owner’s side without pulling they should be praised. If the puppy pulls on the lead the owner should stop so that the puppy cannot continue forward. They should then encourage the puppy back to their side and begin moving forward again. It can help to lure the puppy into position with a treat or a toy. Special harnesses and halters are available which can help prevent large or strong puppies from pulling on the lead. These may be useful but should not be used as a substitute for training a puppy to walk without pulling.


WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Training


21


Resting quietlyIt is a good idea to give puppies praise and treats occasionally for lying quietly so that they learn that this is good behaviour. It can be useful to introduce a command such as ‘settle’ or ‘bed’ for times when the owner wants the puppy to remain quietly in one place.

Toilet trainingOne of the key things is to give a puppy lots of opportunities to go to the toilet in the right place. An owner should take him outside frequently, particularly after meals, after he has woken from a sleep, fi rst thing in the morning and when the owner has been out. When he goes to the toilet in the right place he should be given lots of praise and a reward. A puppy should never be punished if he has an accident – it should simply be cleaned up as if nothing has happened. Accidents should be cleaned up with a non-ammonia based detergent (ammonia can smell like urine to dogs causing them to mark over it).

Behaviour problemsIf a puppy develops behavioural problems it is best to speak to a veterinarian who can give him a health check and offer advice. A thorough health check by a veterinarian can sometimes reveal health problems that may be causing the behavioural issues. If appropriate, a veterinarian can refer the puppy to a behavioural specialist who can take a full and detailed history and then explain the motivation for the problem behaviour and help put together a treatment programme.

Using a crateA puppy crate can be a great aid to training a puppy. However, the crate should be a nice, safe place for the puppy to rest in and should never be used as a punishment. It is important that a puppy crate is large enough for the puppy to stand up, lie down and turn around in easily when he is fully grown. Puppies should never be left in a crate for long periods of time. Owners who wish to use a crate for their puppy should begin by feeding the puppy in the crate so that he associates being in it with enjoyable experiences.

Other things to train Puppy training classes are a great place for owners to learn to teach other tasks to their puppy. Useful commands to teach include ‘stay’, ‘leave’ and ‘drop’. Puppy training classes can also help owners to teach tricks, such as rolling over or giving a paw, which can be a great way to keep an intelligent puppy’s mind active.

ExerciseExercise for healthy growth

Dogs are intelligent animals that require mental stimulation. Exercise is a good way of fulfi lling this need, and is important for all puppies but particularly for highly active or working breeds. It is, however, recommended that the amount of exercise a puppy receives should be controlled whilst they are growing to minimise the risk of developing joint problems.

Controlling the amount of exercise is particularly important in large breed puppies as they take longer to stop growing and reach maturity and they more commonly suffer from joint problems such as elbow and hip dysplasia. There is growing evidence that breeds that are predisposed to these conditions may be less at risk of developing problems if their exercise is restricted rather than being given unlimited exercise.

There are no specifi c guidelines for how much exercise should be given, but the best advice is that a growing puppy should not be given ‘forced exercise’. ‘Forced exercise’ is usually defi ned as ‘exercise that is beyond what a puppy would engage in with a dog of the same age’. Most large or giant breed puppies will stop growing between 12-18 months old and it is, therefore, best to wait until this age before giving free (‘forced’) exercise, in order to help minimise problems in the future.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Training / Exercise


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Health careRole of the veterinarian

Throughout his life a dog will need regular veterinary care and attention. Before getting a new puppy, owners should consult with a veterinarian to ensure they have a healthcare programme in place.

Vaccination

Vaccines are pharmaceutical products that are designed to improve an animal’s immunity against infection. They work by stimulating the body’s immune system so that when exposed to the same infection the immune system can more rapidly recognise and react to it. It is recommended that all dogs should be given a set of core vaccines, which are Distemper, Adenovirus, Parvovirus and (in endemic areas) Rabies. Depending upon their geographical location or lifestyle a series of non-core vaccinations may be required. Vaccination not only provides protection to the individual animal but also helps to protect the entire population and minimise the chances of a major outbreak of any infectious disease16.

Parasite control

Dogs are susceptible to a number of different parasites, including worms, ticks, fl eas and heartworms, which may be encountered during their normal day to day life. These not only pose a risk to the infected animal but certain parasites can infect humans as well. The type of parasites that a dog may be exposed to will depend upon where they live and their lifestyle and this will affect the type and frequency of treatment required. A wide variety of products are available for the treatment and prevention of parasites, including fl ea collars, spot-on or sprays, worming tablets and injections. Prevention and treatment plans should be discussed with a veterinarian to ensure that a dog receives the correct protection.

Neutering

Neutering is the surgical sterilisation of an animal through the removal of all or part of its reproductive organs. The primary reason for neutering is to prevent unplanned pregnancies. There are, however, other benefi ts associated with neutering such as reduced risk of certain cancers and potentially modifying unwanted behaviours associated with sex hormones. Behaviour problems, such as aggression, however, are rarely solved solely by neutering and are best addressed through a behaviour programme designed by a behaviourist or veterinarian. Owners are recommended to discuss the best age to neuter their puppy with a veterinarian.

Veterinary insurance

In many countries owners may be able to take out pet insurance, which covers unforeseen expenses such as veterinary fees and third party liability. This can be highly benefi cial when facing expensive veterinary fees in unforeseen circumstances such as accidents or illness.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Health care


Oral careEstablishing a routine

23

Puppies have a set of deciduous (‘milk’) teeth that begin to erupt at around 3-4 weeks of age and

most puppies have a full set of milk teeth by 7 weeks. Between 14 and 20 weeks of age, puppies

lose their fi rst set of teeth and the adult teeth begin to emerge. Teething triggers an urge to chew

or gnaw so it is essential to provide some chewing toys to help prevent the puppy from chewing

inappropriate objects and damaging their teeth. It is not advisable to feed bones to puppies or adult

dogs as they pose a risk of tooth damage and splinters of bone may damage the digestive tract. A

full set of adult teeth should be present by 7 months. If the entire set of adult teeth is not present

by this stage, it is best to ask a veterinarian to monitor progress17.

Introducing the puppy to an oral health routine as early as possible will allow this habit to extend throughout their adult life, reducing their chance of developing gum disease or the more severe form known as periodontitis (periodontal disease). Periodontal disease is widespread in dogs and can cause pain, tooth loss and can potentially lead to problems in the rest of the body such as the heart and liver. Plaque build up is the trigger for periodontal disease, so it is important that a puppy is introduced to some form of regular plaque control as early as possible to ensure acceptance.

When they acquire a puppy, owners should make a point of putting their fi nger in the puppy’s mouth and rubbing the gums and teeth gently on a daily basis. When the puppy is happy to accept this, they should be introduced to fi nger brushing. This technique involves using a commercially available fi nger brush and gently rubbing the outside surfaces of the teeth to remove plaque. When the puppy has fi nished teething, tooth brushing may be introduced. This may be carried out with or without a veterinary toothpaste and should be carried out daily for maximum effect. It is not recommended to use a human toothpaste as it contains fl uoride and foaming agents which can cause stomach upsets when swallowed. Owners may supplement tooth brushing with specially designed puppy oral care treats which also help with plaque control. If owners need any advice on tooth brushing or any aspect of puppy oral care, it is best to speak to their veterinarian.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Oral care


Key references

24

1. Scott, J.P. & Fuller, J.L. (1965) Genetics and the Social Behaviour of the Dog. Chicago: University of Chicago Press.

2. Serpell, J. & Jagoe, J.A. (1995) Early experience and the development of behaviour. In: Serpell, J. (Ed.) The domestic dog: its evolution, behaviour and interactions with people. Cambridge University Press.

3. Hawthorne, A. J., Booles, D., Nugent, P. A. et al (2004) Body-weight changes during growth of puppies of different breeds. Journal of Nutrition, 134, 2027S-2030S.

4. National Research Council (2006) Nutrient requirements of dogs and cats. National Academies Press, Washington, DC.

5. Milner, J. A. (1981) Lysine requirements of the immature dog. Journal of Nutrition, 111, 40-45.

6. Hirakawa, D.A. & Baker D.H. (1986) Lysine requirement of growing puppies fed practical and purifi ed diets. Nutrition Research, 6, 527-538.

7. Milner, J.A. (1979) Assessment of the essentiality of methionine, threonine, tryptophan, histidine and isoleucine in immature dogs. Journal of Nutrition, 109, 1351-1357.

8. Burns, R.A. & Milner, J.A. (1982) Threonine, tryptophan and histidine requirements of immature Beagle dogs. Journal of Nutrition, 112, 447-452.

9. Hirakawa, D. A. & Baker, D.H. (1985) Sulfur amino acid nutrition of the growing puppy: Determination of dietary requirements for methionine and cystine. Nutrition Research, 5, 631-642.

10. Reynolds, A.J., Waldron, M., Wilson, E. et al (2006) Effect of long-chain PUFA supple mentation on mental stability, problem-solving ability and learned pattern retention in young, growing dogs. Compendium on Continuing Education for Practicing Veterinarians, 28(4A), 74.

11. Nap, R. (1993) Nutritional infl uences on growth and skeletal development in the dog. PhD Thesis, University Utrecht, Netherlands.

WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Key references

12. Sanecki, R., Corbin, J. & Forbes, R. (1982) Tissue changes in dogs fed a zinc-defi cient ration. American Journal of Veterinary Research, 43, 1642-1646.

13. Sanecki, R., Corbin, J. & Forbes, R. (1985) Extracutaneous histologic changes accompanying zinc defi ciency in puppies. American Journal of Veterinary Research, 46, 2120-2123.

14. Harvey, J. (1998) Iron defi ciency anemia in dogs and cats. Proceedings of the North American Veterinary Conference, Florida, 12,336-338.

15. Mellanby, E. (1938) The experimental production of deafness in young animals by diet. Journal of Physiology, 94, 380-398.

16. Day, M.J. (2011) Vaccination of dogs and cats: no longer so controversial? Veterinary Record, May 7th 2011, pp480-482.

17. Hennet, P. (1995) Dental anatomy and physiology of small carnivores. In: Crossley, D.A. & Penman, S. (Eds.) BSAVA Manual of Small Animal Dentistry, pp93-104.


25 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care


Top tips for puppy owners

Choosing a puppyWhen choosing a new puppy owners should select a breed or type of dog that is appropriate for their lifestyle.

DietPuppies should be fed a complete and balanced diet designed for puppies until they are adult. The age they are adult differs according to breed size.

Socialisation

Puppies should encounter a variety of different people, dogs, objects and situations – all in a positive way. The most important time for this to occur is between three and 12 weeks of age, but socialisation should continue throughout a puppy’s development. Puppy classes provide a good opportunity to socialise puppies.

Training

The best way to train is to reward good behaviour and ignore unwanted behaviour. It is never too early to begin training a puppy but owners must remember that very young puppies become tired or distracted easily so training sessions should be kept to a short duration.

HealthcareOwners should discuss vaccinations, parasite control and neutering with their veterinarian, as well as any other concerns they may have.

Oral careOwners should introduce some form of oral care for their puppy as early as possible.

Exercise

Amounts of exercise should be controlled for puppies during growth. Puppies should not be forced to exercise beyond the amount they would engage in with another puppy of the same age and must be allowed to rest when they need to.

WaterFresh drinking water should always be provided for puppies in a bowl that is appropriate for their size.

26 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care – Top tips

The neonatal periodThe majority of the puppy’s time during this period is spent sleeping and feeding.

Puppies able to crawl forward at birth

Puppies receive colostrum in their mother’s milk

Puppies are completely dependent on their mother

for everything

Able to crawl backwards

Beginnings of social signals:

Growling, tail wagging

Ears open

Startle response to loud noise

Play barking Early play behaviour Puppies should now be fully weaned. Puppies should be fed four or fi ve

meals per day

The best time for puppies to leave their mother and littermates to go

to their new home and new owner

Feeding frequency should be reduced to three feeds per day

Males start to become interested in bitches in season

A puppy should reach approximately 50% of its adult body weight. Feeding frequency

should be reduced to twice daily

Some small and toy breed may have reached their adult

size at this age

Males become sexually mature

Toy, small, and medium breeds are now considered adult and their diet may be

changed from puppy to adult food

Large breed dogs are now considered adult and their diet may be changed from puppy

to adult food

Giant breed dogs may be considered adult and their diet should be changed

from puppy to adult food

Milk teeth start to be replaced by adult teeth

Females become sexually mature. Bitches have their fi rst season

Males may start to show raised leg urination

Eruption of milk teeth

Readily approach novel objectsMost puppies have a full set of milk teeth

Most puppies should have a full set of milk teeth

Start to stand and attempt to walk

Play fi ghtingRespond to light and

movement

Puppies start to show an interest in semi-solid food (but will continue to nurse

from their mother)

Anogenital licking by the mother is no

longer needed to stimulate urination and defecation.

Puppies start to urinate and

defecate outside the nest

Puppies’ eyes open

The transitional periodThis is a period of rapid change

as the puppy begins to show the early forms of its adult self.

The socialisation periodThis is probably the most infl uential period of the puppy’s life and much of what is learned during this period may last

through the puppy’s life. During this time the puppy develops its social skills and learns about its environment.

The socialisation periodIt is essential particularly during the later weeks of this period that the puppy experiences all the things (people, other animals, objects) that it may encounter in adult life. It is also important that the puppy experiences situations it is likely to encounter

in later life, such as being left alone for short periods, visiting the veterinarian, and travelling in the car.

The socialisation period

The juvenile /adult period (depending on breed size) The adult period

The juvenile periodBy this period many of the major changes will have occurred. However, the puppy is still developing and not yet fully adult and therefore should continue to be fed puppy food.

The juvenile period

Birth

10 weeks

6 months

1 week

11 weeks

7 months

2 weeks

12 weeks

8 months

3 weeks

13 weeks

9 months

4 weeks

14 weeks

10 months

5 weeks

15 weeks

11 months

6 weeks

16 weeks

12 months

7 weeks

17 weeks

18 months

8 weeks

18 weeks

24 months

9 weeks

5 months


27


28 WALTHAM® pocket book of puppy nutrition and care

Dr. Richard Hill is an Associate Professor and Chief of the Small Animal Clinical Nutrition and Internal Medicine Services at the University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine.

He qualified as a veterinarian at the University of Cambridge in 1980 and spent 5 years as an assistant in the small animal hospital of a large mixed practice in Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire. He then completed a residency in small animal internal medicine at the University of Pennsylvania and a PhD at the University of Florida and is a diplomate of the American Colleges of Veterinary Internal Medicine and Veterinary Nutrition. As well as teaching clinical small animal internal medicine and nutrition, he conducts research into the gastrointestinal physiology and nutrient and energy requirements of pet cats and exercising dogs. As a member of the Subcommittee on Dog and Cat Nutrition of the National Research Council Committee on Animal Nutrition, he was a co-author of the Nutrient Requirements of Dogs and Cats published in 2006 by the National Academy of Sciences and was primary author of the chapter that discusses the effects of Physical Activity and Environment on nutrient requirements

Dr. Richard Butterwick is Head of Nutrition at the WALTHAM® Centre for Pet Nutrition.

After graduating in 1985 from the Department of Agricultural Biochemistry and Nutrition, Newcastle University, UK, Richard was awarded a PhD in 1989. Richard then spent a short sabbatical lecturing pre-clinical studies at the Samora Machel Veterinary School, Lusaka, Zambia, before joining the Department of Paediatric Endocrinology at Saint Bartholomew’s Hospital, London wherehe was part of a clinical research team working on growth disorders in children. In 1991 Richard went on to join the WALTHAM® Centre for Pet Nutrition where he worked on the research and development of veterinary clinical diets, with emphasis on the management of obesity, gastrointestinal disease, neonatal and post-operative nutritional support. Since then he has led a number of research programmes, covering a broad spectrum of nutritional areas in dogs and cats, including energy requirements and obesity, digestive function and health, growth and development, and oral health. Richard has been published widely in the field of dog and cat nutrition and is a member of a number of professional bodies..