watch world magazine - spring 2014 in

8/10/2019 Watch World Magazine - Spring 2014 In

1/84

WatchWorldhigh-end brands, models, technology and design

An uplifting new tourbillon from Herms New models from Hublot, Longines, Chopard, Arnold & Son

and many more Whats the most popular young watch brand? A book about a Breitling: chapter 1

olume 9 issue 30, 2014 6,99

0024

AudemarsPiguetJaeger-LeCoultreA.Lange&ShneBaume&MercierMontblancCartierParmigianiFleurier

IWCGreubelForsey

RalphLaurenPanerai

M

o n t b l a n

c C a r t

i e r

P a r m

i g i a n i F

l e u r i e r

I W C

G

r e u b e l

F o r s e y

R

a l p h L

a u r e n

P a n e r a i

PiagetRichardMil

leRogerDubuisVanCleef&Arpel

sVacheronConstantin

A

A

AudemarsPiguetACEtheplays

ThenewRoyalOakOffshoreChronograph42mmisourfutureiconAPsOctavioGarcia

page31

0 1

771567 671002


2/8400/24 HORLOGES2

RUBRIEK


3/84


4/8400244

CONTENT

MOMENT IN TIME10 1/1,000th of a second makes the difference between gold or silver

SMALL SECONDS

12 Novak Djokovic with Seiko on centre court, four times the Chinese Year

of the Horse, two typical British watches plus more news, facts & figures

and key players from the world of haute horlogerie

ARTISTS IMPRESSION16 The time in black and white, thanks to the Domino Clock

WHATS GOING ON(LINE)18 0024 on the world wide web: what can you expect from us?

RETROSPECTIVE20 With Shakespeares Full fathom five thy father lies in mind Blancpain

dove to the depths of the sea

0024 MARKET SCAN22 The resurrection of the haute horlogerie after the turbulent eighties

analysed with figures

SIHH 201425 The house of cards built by the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie

was sturdy and solidly: all 16 brands of the Richemont Group surprised the

audience with exciting trump cards and haute horlogerie novelties

54 One of the highlights of the SIHH: planetary poetry above Paris and the

Dutch village Nijehaske, with Van Cleef & Arpels

PHOTOSHOOT58 Time goes round: 11 watches with a round case

INTERVIEW

66 Since the launch of the Arceau Lift, Herms writes Haute Horlogerie with

a capital H, according to Luc Perramond

ESSAY70 First chapter of the book Once Upon a Timepiece, a novel made of

12 short stories starring a Breitling Chronomat from 1946

PRE-BASELWORLD 201474 A whirlwind of new models is on its way, so to be save weve already

picked 21 interesting BaselWorld novelties

COLUMN

80 Simon says: follow us online!

82 Karel Hubert wants to ask you one tiny favour: give a watch to your

beloved ones

SERVICE

35 Contact/subscription

WATCHWORLD

22

7

5

7

10

7

7

7

725

12

74

66

K

K


5/84

TO BREAK THE RULES,

YOU MUST FIRST MASTER

THEM.

THE ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SERIES CONTINUES TO PUSH THE

BOUNDARIES OF AUDEMARS PIGUET SAVOIR-FAIRE. THIS

CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON, WITH DUAL TIME FUNCTION,

FEATURES WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL, CROWN, PUSHER AND

BRIDGE. NINE TIMES HARDER THAN STEEL, CERAMIC IS

EXCEPTIONALLY DIFFICULT TO WORK, YET HERE IT IS FINELY

BRUSHED AND POLISHED AS IF IT WERE PRECIOUS METAL.

THE COMPLEX FORM OF THE CASE IS MILLED FROM A SOLID

BLOCK OF TITANIUM. THE INDIVIDUAL FACETS ARE THEN

MICRO SAND BLASTED TO ACHIEVE THE DISTINCTIVE MATT

GRAINING. AUDACIOUS STYLING, PEERLESS CRAFTSMANSHIP.

ROYAL OAKCONCEPT GMT

TOURBILLONIN TITANIUM,

WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL.

AUDEMARS PIGUET UK LTDTEL: + 44 207 409 0782WWW.AUDEMARSPIGUET.COM


6/84

Lex

Sto

lk,in

ter

nat

ion

al

edi t

or

-in

-ch

ief

0024 WATCHWORLD6

FOREWORD

More than 20 years ago I entered the parallel world

of the mechanical watch via a kind of inter-

dimensional portal in Antwerp, and underwent

a transformation. From the moment I entered

that Flemish jewellery store, I wanted to feel, understand, possess,

experience, talk about watches: I was never the same again. In

fact it is the friend who enticed me to board the train to Antwerp

who is responsible for the change in me. He knew why he was

going there: to score a mechanical watch in the sales. On the way

to Antwerp I read through a German watch annual, which my

friend already knew by heart, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith. His

passionate comments, page after page, became an emotion that

settled somewhere between head and heart. I was being prepped

for my initiation a little later that

same day.

On the way back I did little else but

stare at my left wrist, which was

now graced by a Baume & Mercier

Formula S. Is it pathetic to say that

this chronograph finally made me

feel complete? Probably, but it is

the truth. The watch told so many

stories: of the illustrious history of

the house of Baume & Mercier, of

attention for every single detail, of miniaturised technology of the

highest level, of adventurous motor sport the word Formula

was written large on the bezel. I sensed all those stories and the

fact that I could understand them gave me a feeling of self-

assurance. It gave me a sensation of sophisticated depth. Later

that evening I entered the dark dorm room of my then girlfriend

surrounded by an aura of superiority, of someone who had been

admitted to an elite club of aficionados.

So, did you get a new watch? Expensive?. She was already half

asleep in the pitch dark but still she noticed my radiant new aura

immediately, that much was clear. In my surprise I must have

mumbled something, put the watch on the bedside table and went

to sleep next to her. But I knew that when I woke up my world

would have changed for ever. The very next morning my daily,

unchanging ritual of looking at the watch by my bedside before

strapping it onto my wrist started...

Never thesame again


7/84


8/84

WatchWorld0024

International editor-in-chiefLex Stolk

International editorial supervisorHarry H.R. Wijnschenk

Senior editor UKSimon Cudd

Contributing editorsEllen Dobbelaar

Kristian Haagen

Karel Hubert

Britta Rossander

BloggersSimon Cudd

Ellen Dobbelaar

Kristian Haagen

Karel Hubert

Lex Stolk

Translat ionsHarald European Translation Partners

www.harald.nl

Art direction and graphic designNextdoor Design, Almere (The Netherlands)

Michel Pleiter

Production managementSandy Hoogendijk

Digital mediaMarco Postma

MarketingSandy Hoogendijk

Public RelationsAnnet C. Hoveling

Founding editor & founding publisherKarel Hubert & Harry H.R. Wijnschenk

ISSN: 1567-6714

Editorial office0024 WatchWorld

Musicalstraat 34 | 1323 VP Almere (The Netherlands)

p+31 (0)36 546 01 55 | f+31 (0)36 546 01 50

e [email protected]|i www.0024watchworld.com

Digital subscription0024 WatchWorld is also available via

Zinio.com, Google Play Store and the App Store

International watch magazines0024 Horloges in the Netherlands and Belgium

0024 WatchWorld in Scandinavia

(Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland)

CoverAudemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm

Read more about it on page 31.

IS A PUBLICATION OF MOTOMAX MEDIA B.V.

Musicalstraat 34 | 1323 VP Almere (The Netherlands)

p+31 (0)36 546 01 55 |f+31 (0)36 546 01 50

[email protected] | i www.motomax.nl

Printed byAlbe De Coker, Antwerp (Belgium)

DistributionMarketforce Ltd, London (United Kingdom)

Betapress, Gilze (The Netherlands)

Circulation marketingIntermedia Brand Marketing Ltd, Plymouth (United Kingdom)

SubscriptionsSubscriptions are provided by: Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd,

Abbey House, Clarendon Road, Redhill,

Surrey RH1 1QZ (United Kingdom)

P+ 44 (0) 1737 457340 | e [email protected]

Please visit www.0024watchworld.co.uk/uksub

for our online subscription page.Cover price per issue: 6,99

CancellationsCancellations in writing, no later than 6 weeks

before expiry of the subscription period.

Change of addressSend a change of address to

[email protected]

MotoMax Media B.V. is a solar powered company. We drive environmental friendly hybrid cars. Our magazines are CO2 neutrally produced, using 100% vegetable inks and environmental friendly paper.

All rights reserved. No unauthorised reproduction permitted, without written permission of the publisher. Copyright 2014 MotoMax Media B.V.

10506-1301-1001


9/84

la montre herms tames time, mastering its measurement.

one press on the pushbutton and the chronographs second hand starts moving,

the counter hands hot on its heels. beneath the dial ticks the steady beat of the manufacture

h1925mechanical movement, embodiment of the houses high standards.

precision and elegance meet and merge, reminding us that each second is truly unique.

dressage

herms. time reinvented.

Hermes.com


10/84


11/84

ACCURATE TO ONE THOUSANDTH

OF A SECOND

It isnt the person who puts down the fastest time; the

person who is first to finish is the winner in short track

speed skating. The sport got a lot of attention during the

Olympic Winter Games in Sochi, because the ice skaters

flew across the short oval track at speeds of 55 km/h

and pulled out all the stops to overtake their opponents.

Slaloms, cutting the inside corner, going around the

outside, and often touching the ice with their hands in

the corners. It was up to Omega, the official timekeeper

during the Winter Olympics, to not only measure accu-

rately who was first to finish, but also clock the starting

times, for example during the ice skating. A huge job,

but Omega was well prepared. An amazing 230 tonnes

of materials were needed to make sure everything ran

smoothly: starting gates, the photoelectric cell, ankle

bands, miles of cable, scoreboards etc. Important,

because a difference of just 0.003 seconds decides

whether you win gold or silver, as Dutch ice skater

Koen Verweij found out. And for Slovenian Tina Maze

and Swiss Dominique Gisin the high-tech time recording

methods confirmed that for the first time in the history

of the Winter Games they had both won gold in alpine

skiing. Both finished in the exact same time of 1:42.57.

0024 WATCHWORLD 11


12/84

SMALL SECONDS By Ellen Dobbelaar

The Internet is the perfect tool for measuring the mood

among watch lovers. We do this in conjunction with the

Dutch/German company Chronolytics, which analyses

the data of the worlds biggest online provider of (second-

hand) watches, www.chrono24.com. Looking back at

2013 we see that, as in 2012, Rolex remains the most

popular watch brand among Europeans and Americans.

And whether that is because of the 50th birthday of the

Daytona or because of the virtually unassailable, mythical

image of the brand We think it might be the latter.

www.rolex.com

1SEIKO on centre court

NOSTALGIALongines concluded the year 2013 in style with the Heritage

1973, an amazing chronograph which, with respect to its look

and feel, is based on its retro-elegant predecessor. A 40mm,

cushion-shaped steel case with a silvered or black dial,

nine unusually shaped hour indicators, a tachymeter scale,

chronograph functions and a date indicator. Apparently

Longines was feeling nostalgic last year, because the

companys rich watch history had already been a source of

inspiration for the Longines designers twice before: in the

case of the Heritage 1968, a chic and avant-garde design

thanks to its square case and Roman numerals, and the

Heritage Military 1938, a simple but tasteful design based

on a pilots watch from the 1930s that has been restyled into

three contemporary versions: with date indicator, 24-hour

indicator and chronograph function. www.longines.com

HeritageMilitary1938

Heritage 1968

Heritage 1973

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

0024 WATCHWORLD2

ROLEX:the undisputednumber

Those who watched the Australian Open carefully may have noticed something

about top tennis player Novak Djokovic: there is no longer an Audemars Piguet on his

wrist but a Seiko. For the next three years the Japanese watch brand will be Djokovics

new Watch Partner, as it is officially called. Seiko has selected a number of models

for Djokovic: a Sportura for training, a Premier Kinetic Perpetual for official occasions

and a Divers for when he isnt on the tennis court. Also: an Astron GPS Solar, the

perfect tool for a world traveller like Djokovic, which was personally presented to him

in Melbourne by Shinji Hattori, Seikos Watch Corporation President. What else the

next three years with Seiko will bring is not clear at this point, but during the quarter-

finals of the Australian open Djokovic had to concede his position: ironically enough

his Swiss opponent Stanislas Wawrinka, from Lausanne, who was the overall winner

at the final game, was too strong for him.www.seiko.co.uk


13/84

THE C3H5N3O9 ZR012 explainedBe warned: the ZR012 is an explosive experiment. C3H5N3O9 is the molecular formula for nitro-glycerine, a highly flammable substance but also the

brand name of a unique watch laboratory that is managed by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei (Urwerk), Maximilian Bsser and Serge Kriknoff

(MB&F) and Eric Giroud (independent watch designer). These geniuses wanted to experiment with technologies, materials and designs without any

obligations to a specific brand, and consequently formed a platform in which their combined characteristics created a true horological chain reaction.

In 2012 they introduced the ZR012, a limited edition of 12 zirconium watches based on a number of mathematical principles. The wankel motor, named

after its constructor Felix Wankel, which functions like a triangular rotor, the Reuleaux polygon, which serves as the hour and minute hand and the

epitrochoid, a mathematical planar curve used to shape the indicators. Twelve new copies of this scientific marvel are now available, this time finishedwith a black PVD zirconium case. This watch can be yours for around 130,000 Swiss francs and it is only available through a unique outlet in Singapore,

The Hour Glass, although online orders are also accepted. www.c3h5n3o9.com

The watch features a manual movement that can be operated via the

(large) screwed-in crown characteristic of MB&F.

The scale for the hours and minutes is found on the bottom half of twoellipses. This scale was created by 180 points, each of which forms part of

an epitrochoid, a mathematical planar curve. In other words: the pointsthat are indicated by the corners of the polygon as soon as the polygon

revolves around its axis.

The hands consist of Reuleaux polygons, triangles with rounded sides.In this example it is 8.28 AM.

The case (55 x 44mm) is made of zirconium, derived from the mineralzircon. It is comparable to titanium the material the lugs are made of

and it is extremely corrosion-resistant.

The sealed case-back reveals only the power reserve: 39 hours to be exact.

For many years the Olympic Games have been

dominated by timekeeper Omega. And in keeping

with such a grand event, Omega has issued a

limited edition of 100 watches as a tribute to the

host country Russia. The Sochi Petrograd between

1914 and 1924 the former capital of Russia was

called Petrograd is based on a historical piece

from Omegas museum collection. Omega opted

for the colours of the Russian flag (white, blue and

red) which have been incorporated in the dial of

the yellow gold, tonneau-shaped case. The case-

back is graced by the Sochi 2014 logo. But German

company Grieb & Benzinger is also seizing this

opportunity with both hands to keep its hordes

of faithful Russian fans happy. The brand does

this with the Saint George, the patron depicted on

Russias Coat of Arms. This patron saint has beenskeletonised and engraved on the case-back:

For the RUSSIA LOVERSonly seven copies of this watch will be made and all of them

are probably sold to Russian customers.

www.omegawatches.com, www.grieb-benzinger.com

0024 WATCHWORLD 13


14/84

that pay tribute to the Chinese Year of the Horse.

WATCHESelevated

to works ofART

Sarah Illenberger is a renowned artist and illustrator from Berlin. German

brand Nomos has engaged her for a unique collaboration: thanks to Sarah

the Bauhaus-inspired watches have been transformed into totally diffe-

rent but everyday objects. With just a few simple things like stones, paper

and even autumn leaves or biscuits, the Club, Orion and Tangente become

wittyobjets dart, because Sarahs creations consists of a light-hearted mix

of photography, art and graphic design and with a few simple but care-

fully thought-out modifications an image is created that says much more

than a thousand words. www.nomos-glashuette.com

More examples of Sarahs creations using the Nomos watches may be found

on www.0024watchworld.com.

CARTIER

MUST-HAVES

Early this year Cartier not only introduced a number of impres-

sive watches more about those elsewhere in this magazine

but also a number of beautiful accessories, each of which was

totally Cartier. Like this watch and jewellery box, made of fig

wood and featuring a kaleidoscopic pattern. There are separate

compartments for rings, earrings, cufflinks, bracelets and

necklaces, and there is room for at least six watches.

www.cartier.com

WATCHES

Jaquet DrozPetite Heure Minute Relief

Horse

ChopardL.U.C XP Urushi

Would you like to own a special Year of the Horse watch for just 50?On www.0024watchworld.com international editor-in-chief Lex Stolk tells you which watch it is.

Ulysse NardinClassico Horse

4Arnold & SonHM Horses

0024 WATCHWORLD4

SMALL SECONDS


15/84

TheAFFORDABLEautomatic watch

Restraint, elegant and affordable: that describes

this re-interpretation of Les Classiques Auto-matic in a nutshell. Sandro Reginelli, Product

Director at Maurice Lacroix, took the Les Clas-

siques and made changes to the bezel, among

other things, creating a slimmer version with a

beautifully finished dial and a domed, polished

surface. The dial has been given new hour indi-

cators, the date window has moved to 3 oclock

and the watch is now available in several

colours and with Roman or Arabic numerals.

A neat 38mm steel case surrounds the ML115

calibre with its 38-hour power reserve for the

hours, minutes, seconds and date. At approxi-

mately 825 this is a worthy watch that looks

good on any wrist.www.mauricelacroix.com

To celebrate the 225th birthday of Backes & Strauss,

the London-based and by Franck Muller Group owned

watch and jewellery brand, created a masterpiece with

225 natural diamonds (66 different colour hues), one to

mark every year since Backes & Strauss was founded. A

white gold watch, with sword-shaped hands, a quartz

movement, but with at least 10 different diamond cuts,

that cost 1,975 hours of master craftsmen work and

25 months to design and craft the watch. And as the

name suggests, its of course a ladys cocktail watch.

www.backesandstrauss.com

TB VictoryArnold & Son pays a tribute to Britains

National Museum of the Royal Navy, that is

comprised by five museums. One of those

museums is HMS Victory, one of Britains

most famous warships, which had her finest

hour as Lord Nelsons flagship at the Battle of

Trafalgar in 1805. The cream dial of the watch, thats fitted in a 44mm rose gold case,

unveils a beautiful solid gold miniature of the HMS Victory. A case-back see-through

shows you the National Museum logo executed in metallic palladium and the A&S

26103 calibre, an automatic movement thats entirely developed, designed and manu-factured at Arnold & Sons workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Only one piece will be

made and it will be presented to the National Museum of the Royal Navy.

www.arnoldandson.com

Spectacularnew venue forLONGINES'GTCLongines is the undisputable partner when it

comes to equestrian. The Saint-Imier based brand

is the Official Timing Partner of the Global Cham-

pions Tour, the worlds leading show jumping

series, that will take place in 14 different cities, likeAntwerp, Shanghai, Lausanne and London. This

year the GTC will take place from 14 till 16th of

August in London and the organisation announced

a spectacular new venue at historic Horse Guards

Parade this summer. The site has been used for

parades, pageants and ceremonies since the 17th

century and is world famous for the Trooping The

Colour on the Queens Birthday Parade. During

those days its possible to see the best riders com-

peting for the highest price money in the sport and

of course Longines will be there to measure all the

times and to hand over some beautiful watches

to the winners. To give you an example: last year

British Olympic team gold medallists Nick Skelton

and Ben Maher battled for the Grand Prix honours

in one of the most exciting jump-offs.

www.longines.com,

www.globalchampionstour.com

0024 WATCHWORLD 15

Piccadilly PrincessROYAL COLOURS EspeciallyFOR U(K)Both born in the 18th cen-

tury, both with an English

background: Backes & Strauss

and Arnold & Son. Both brands

announced that they will pro-

duce a limited edition watch that

pays tribute to its British heri-

tage, each with its own identity.


16/84

ARTISTS IMPRESSION By Ellen Dobbelaar, picture Carbon Design Group

The domino effect

These simple dominoes hide an interesting story,

literally and figuratively. The Seattle-based desig-

ners of the Carbon Design Group have given the

three dominoes articulating dots that flip back

and forth between black and white to show the

time. Being wireless, the clock can be mounted

on the wall or positioned on the floor. The minds

behind the domino clock have taken a familiar,

iconic object out of its usual environment and

given it an entirely new function, so the domi-

noes get a totally different meaning. The num-

bers on the dominoes and dice are recognisable

to everyone, so it was immediately clear to us

that this object would be an ideal starting point

for a clock, Joe Sullivan, industrial designer,

explains. Most people own a set of dominoes,

but because they are not used to seeing them

that big, and mounted on the wall, it becomes a

pleasant surprise. Of course the dominoes have

to look like the real thing, but if you enlarge those

small ceramic blocks to a huge size they become

almost impossible to lift. Whats more, the white

and black dots flip back and forth soundlessly,

simultaneously and slowly, and the mechanism

also has to be energy-efficient for a long battery

life. A small, electromagnetic coil fitted behind

each dot is the solution. The magnet and the iron

revolve around the coil and because the mecha-

nism is attached to the dots the colour automa-

tically changes from white to black and back.

That way the hours and minutes pass slowly and

unnoticeably and you will experience time in a

more relaxed manner at least that is what the

designers hope.

www.carbondesign.com

0024 WATCHWORLD6


17/84


18/840024 WATCHWORLD8

WHATS GOING ON(LINE)

W E B S I T E

T W I T T E RI N S T A G R A M

F A C E B O O K

0024

0024


19/84


20/84

RETROSPECTIVE By Ellen Dobbelaar, picture Blancpain

0024 WatchWorld looks back in time, when innovative watches

were born that would prove to have a major impact on the

development of the watch industry. We follow the trail of these

icons, by reminiscing with the use of old advertising campaigns. In

this third edition we would like to take you back to 1960, the year

in which the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms crosses the Atlantic Ocean

and the American Marines can dive fifty fathoms deep as well.

T

he story of the Fifty Fathoms starts

in 1953 and in two locations. In

France, where the lead roles are

played by Captain Robert Bob

Maloubier and Claude Riffaud, two French

Marines, and in the neighbouring Switzerland,

where Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter is

an avid diver in his spare time. What the

Marines and the CEO have in common without

being aware of it is their quest for the perfect

divers watch. Maloubier and Riffaud have been

testing existing divers watches, but the results

prove to be disappointing: too small, unreada-

ble, and a lot of leaks. The two French Marines

approach the watch industry but are told that

their plans are unlikely to have a future. Only

Blancpain responds positively, as Fiechter has a

list of technical requirements: water resistance,

accuracy and readability are the spear points.In concrete terms this means that a revolving

BLANCPAINFifty Fathoms

Back in time1960

bezel, screwed-in case-back, a double, sealed

crown, white indicators against a black back-

ground, an automatic movement and a soft-iron

inner case are absolute essentials. It is Fiechter

who comes up with the name Fifty Fathoms,

after hearing Ariels Song from Shakespeares

The Tempest. Full fathoms five thy father lies;

Of his bones are coral made. He puts the Fifty

in front, because five fathoms doesnt really

have much to do with deep sea diving. Fifty

fathoms equal 91.45m, the maximum diving

depth in those days, when fathoms were used

to measure the depth of the water. A fathom

stands for 6 feet, or 1.829m: the width of the two

outstretched arms of a grown man. A length of

rope with a piece of lead attached is lowered

into the water to determine the depth, and the

section of rope that disappeared underwater is

measured between the outstretched arms, indi-

cating the number of fathoms. The collaboration

proves to be a huge success: the Navy embraces

the Fifty Fathoms, underwater photographers

take it down into the depths (thanks to Jacques-

Yves Cousteau) and other diving watch aficio-

nados are also impatiently treading water. The

watch pictured in the advertisement is the Fifty

Fathoms Mil-Spec Navy, a 41mm divers watchthat was developed especially for the US Navy.

0024 WATCHWORLD20


21/840024 WATCHWORLD 21


22/84

0024 MARKET SCAN By Lex Stolk

What is the most popular young brand?

Those who haveyouth on their side

Azimuth

Bedat & Co

Bell & Ross

Chronoswiss

Clerc

Concord

Cvstos

De Bethune

deLaCour

DeWitt

F.P. Journe

Franc Vila

Franck Muller

Frdrique Constant

Graham

Greubel Forsey

Harry Winston

Hautlence

HD3 Slyde

Hublot

Hysek

Ikepod

Linde Werdelin

Maurice de Mauriac

MB&F

Michel Jordi

Parmigiani Fleurier

Rama Swiss Watch

Rebellion

Richard Mille

Roger Dubuis

Romain Jerome

Sarpaneva

Urwerk

Valbray

Zeitwinkel

THE COMPLETE LIST WITH YOUNG BRANDS

0024 WATCHWORLD2


23/84

10TOP

twelve percent and the number three, Bell &

Ross (established in 1992) only gets a meagre

seven percent of all searches. It must be said of

the Master of Complications that, despite its

decreasing prominence among the bundled

marketing power of groups like LVMH, Riche-

mont and the Swatch Group, the ridiculously

creative Crazy Hours and of course the volup-

tuous tonneau shape of the Conquistador are

so recognisable that the watch aficionados

remain loyal to the brand.

For every brand in the top 3 it can be said that

a modern icon from the collection guarantees

the place of honour. Whereas Hublot has

an absolute winner with the Big Bang and

Franck Muller very appropriately gets the

silver medal for the Conquistador, Bell & Ross

largely owes the bronze medal to its square

BR 01 and to an intensive online campaign

that reached and inspired a lot of aficiona-

dos. Watches that have a strong identity can

withstand the vagaries of fashion, although it

must be said that with respect to its appea-

rance and image these days there are more

limited models in the collection than regular

models the Hublot Big Bang is a kind of

chameleon that sets the trend and continues

to change.

Winners and losersAlso remarkable is the fourth place of

Chronoswiss (1983) that very recently changed

owners, which may be an explanation for its

high ranking. Maybe collectors are now loo-

king for models from the period when founder

Gerd-Rdiger Lang was still in charge. Richard

Mille (2001) ranks highly, despite the high

prices paid for the RM, and jeweller Harry

Winston (we start counting Harry Winston as

a watch house when the brand introduced the

Opus series in 2000) is a remarkable presence

in 9th place. This position indicates that Opus

1 through 13 resonates strongly among aficio-

nados and collectors ; so strongly, in fact, that

watch master F.P. Journe is trumped (by two-tenth of a percent). We expected Parmigiani

(1996) and Romain Jerome (2004) to rank

higher than 13th and 14th place respectively,

S

omeone who starts with a blank

piece of paper has a lot more free-

dom than someone who simply

has to colour in an existing picture.

People who have the courage to draw their

own lines and refuse to be limited by others,

and who dont appreciate being told off for

colouring outside the lines. Look at men

like Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis and Michel

Parmigiani, and the even younger generation,

responsible for the creations of Urwerk and

MB&F. But what is the web-surfing watch

lover looking for? What is the most popular

watch brand after 1980? Thanks to Chrono-

lytics we can see which of the 36 young

brands selected by us are the most sought

after. Thanks to Chrono24.com a website

that permanently offers nearly 120,000

watches for sale and has at least 50 million

visitors looking for all types and brands of

watches we saw our suppositions confirmed

and got some remarkable surprises, as well.

Thanks to its high-tech data analysis Chrono-

lytics enables us to compile rankings for dif-

ferent watch markets. Over a 3-month period

2.5 million unique visitors are tracked to find

out which watches for sale on Chrono24.com

are viewed in the Dutch, Belgian and UK

markets and the four Scandinavian countries

Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland.

Among other things, Chronolytics bases its

analysis on the IP address and, at the request

of 0024 WatchWorld, the search this time

was for the most popular watches of brands

established after 1980, in the combined mar-

kets listed above.

Top 3The fact that Hublot (established in 1980)

made the top of the list doesnt come as any

kind of surprise. In a relatively short space of

time watch guru Biver was able to explode

the brand into a serious player in the luxury

sports segment. What is surprising is the fact

that of the 36 selected brands, Hublot takesan amazing 40 percent of the pie. Even more

so because Franck Muller (established in 1991

as Franck Mller) has to make do with just

The history of haute horlogerie often reads like a history book, but

the enormous growth in the watch market has also resulted in a

number of new watch houses of more recent vintage: pure post-

Quartz-Crisis brands that were born in the world of emotion and are

therefore unburdened by rigid and limiting traditions. What is the

most popular young watch house?

but we are happy to see couple Stas in a very

deserving fifth place with their independent

brand Frdrique Constant.

As you can see, the German brands are notmentioned on the list. You will find the ranking

of these brands in the upcoming issue of

0024 WatchWorld.

1. HUBLOT40%

2. FRANCKMULLER12%

3. BELL&ROSS

7%

4. CHRONOSWISS 6%

5. FRDRIQUECONSTANT 5%

6. RICHARDMILLE4.4%

7. GRAHAM4.2%

8. ROGERDUBUIS2.9%

9. HARRYWINSTON1.5%

10. F.P.JOURNE1.3%

0024 WATCHWORLD 23

Franck Muller

Crazy Hours

Bell & Ross BR 01 Heading Indicator


24/84

FIND OUT MORE AT

WWW.AWC.CH AND ORDER

YOUR FAVORITE WATCH

DIRECTLY FROM THE

MANUFACTURER! PRODUCT OF ALEXANDER PHILLIP WATCH COMPANY SWITZERLAND

T H E W A T C H N O

J E W E L E R C A N S E L L


25/84

AAAA

0024 WATCHWORLD 25

The cardsare on the table

A

SIHH 2014


26/84



1815 Tourbillon

This 39.5mm 1815 Tourbillon is a true beauty,

but that was not the first priority of the German

watchmakers. The sizeable 13.2mm tourbillon

that dominates the view in a grand manner does

not revolve for aesthetic reasons but with the

objective of realising the most accurate possible

movement. Function over form, therefore. This is

also evident from the presence of both the Stop-

Seconds and Zero-Reset mechanisms. When the

crown is pulled out it activates a spring that stops

the balance and propels the seconds hand back to

zero so the time can be adjusted easily

and accurately down to the last second.

This is made possible by its calibre

L102.1. Available in rose gold as well as

a limited edition of 100 platinum pieces.

8

8

8

8

9

8

8

GrandLange1MoonPhase

Everything about the Grand Lange1

Moon Phase isbig; the 41mm case, the

date and especially the moon phase

indicator.Thislatest scionintheiconicLange1

family (the revival and steady advance of the

brandfromtheisolatedhinterlandofSaxony)

not only stands out for the size of the moon,

but especially for the excellent readability

andtheminuteattentiontodetail.Thegolden

moonglowsgentlyand382(!)starsindifferent

sizes have been etched into a midnightblue

universe with laser accuracy. Only once every

122yearsisthereaminor discrepancycompared

totherealmooninthesky.Thepositionofthe

moonphaseonthedial,showingtheminutes

andhours, differsfromthetraditionalplaceon

thesmallsecondsdial,andthat givesthewatch

anevenmoreindividualisticlookthanit

hadbefore.Thesublimemanuallywound

calibreL095.3, whichisbuiltinGlashtte,

drivesthetime,dateandmoon.

9

9

Lange1Tourbillon

PerpetualCalendarNothingmore thananew colour, but toobeautiful not to show you: the rose goldversion of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpe-

tualCalendar.Introducedtwoyearsagoasalimi-ted edition of 100 and now also on themarketinanunlimited41.9mmrosegoldcase.As farasthe technology goes (invisible tourbillon,ultra-fastjumping perpetual calendarmechanism),nothinghaschanged.ThewatchmastersinthehillsofSaxony didnt think any chan-ges were needed and theywereabsolutelyright.

9

LangesmanufacturecalibreL082.1

LangesmanufacturecalibreL102.1

A. Lange&ShnealsounveiledanewSaxonia.On

www.0024watchworld.comyoucanreadeverything

about thisstylishwatchforwomen.


28/84


29/8400/24 HORLOGES 9700/24 WATCHWORLD 97

OFFICIAL WATCHBANK PARTNERS

Ace Jewelers Juwelier Kamerbeek

Nymans Ur 1851 Van Hell Juweliers

Amsterdam Vintage Watches Reuyl Juweliers

Juwelier Van Zijp Juwelier Fred Helmer

Nellissen Juwelen Coster Diamonds

Ten Berge Juwelier Alexander Juwelier Atelier

Juwelier Kormelink Dik Juwelier Triade Juweliers

Juwelier Piet Schilder Juwelier Zwinkels

C. van de Kerkhof Juweliers Horlogerie van Manen

CS Bedford Almar Watches

Interested to become a WatchBank partner?

Contact us at [email protected]

buy the best pre-owned watches

on www.watchbank.eu



8

8

SIHH 2014

AudemarsPiguet

7

7

7

7

Threeofakind

8

8

RoyalOakOffshore

Chronograph

The 44mm Offshore stays, but with th

e

significantly updated 42mm variant

it

nowhas a small bigbrotherthattakesup

a prominent position. Unchanged is the

familiarMegaTapisseriepatternonthedial

,

newisthecircularpatternonthesubsidiary

dials, the more sophisticated hands, th

e

date disc that matches the dial colou

r

and the more subtly

embossed

numerals.Twovariants ingoldand

fourversions in steel announcethe

42mmmessageloudandclear. And

themessagewillbereceived.

8

Royal OakOffshoreChronographVampireNicknames are part of theOffshore. Now there is even a

special nickname for the basic blackversion. Thanks to the red details on thedial and the blood-red stitching on thehornback alligator strap this versionwas nicknamed Vampire. This sinisterchronographhousestheAPcalibre3126.Sostillnointegratedchro

nographmovementfrom the companys own manufacture,butabasicproprietarymovementwithaDuboisDprazmodule.

7

7

RoyalOakOffshore

ChronographSafari

The first Safari dates back to2007

and, togetherwiththeblue Navy,was

presented as a more contemporary and

daringvariation onthe Offshoretheme.

ThecompletelyupdatedOffshore isonce

again available intwoversions. Likethe

original, the Safari has a characteristic

hornback leather strap and with its

sand-coloureddialandbrowndetailstheoverall model is extremelytasteful

and

restrained.

J

J

10

10

RoyalOakConcept

GMTTourbillon

This 2014 edition of the Royal

Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon

combinesa44mmtitaniumcase

withabezel, crownandpush-butto

nof

whiteceramicandanintegratedru

bber

strapin(still)immaculatewhite.Pict

ures

dontdojusticetothisdaringtrump

card

intheRoyal Oakfamily.Onpaperthe

whitelookstoohardandcold.Thea

ctual

watchhasaninvitingsoftsheenan

dthe

intricatelymachined andvery dif

ficult

tomakeceramicupperbridgestradd

ling

the calibre 2930 is an intriguing

eye

catcher. Becauseof the shape, co

lour

andmaterial ofthisbridgethe

eyeisautomaticallydrawntothe

tourbillon andthe secondtime

zoneindicator.


31/84


32/84


33/84


34/84


35/84

SUBSCRIBENOW:

For information about digital magazines and subscriptions

we kindly refer to our website www.0024watchworld.co.uk

*Our regular subscription price is 40 per year (4 issues)

including postage and packaging. Subscriptions outside the UK in

Europe cost 48. The price for the rest of the world is 68.

Please go to 0024watchworld.co.uk/uksubto visit our online subscription page, send

an email with your name, address and phone

number to [email protected]

or call +44 (0) 1737 457340.

You can also subscribe for one year (4 issues),

now for only 35 in the UK (usual price 40).

Subscribe for 2 years (8 issues)for 50 only and you will save 30!*

SAVE30!

0024 WATCHWORLD 35



Aquatimer ChronographEdition 50 Years Science

for GalapagosDefinitely a limited edition is the

version clad entirely in intensely black rub-

ber with striking blue details. The 44mm

Chronograph Edition 50 Years Science for

Galapagos is limited to 500 pieces and, like

the Charles Darwin, uses the manufacture

calibre 89365 with a 68-hour power reserve.

Of all the models the external/internal diving

ring with SafeDive system (turn the bezel to

the left and the internal dive time indicator

revolves simultaneously, turn to the right

and the indicator remains safely

in place) on this watch feels the

most pleasant of all nine Aqua-timers, because this version comes

in beautifully tactile rubber.4

4

7 9

7

3

AquatimerPerpetual

CalendarDigital

Date-Month

For dedicatedIWCfanswhoare

notafraidofapieceofhautehorlogerie

the fully redesigned Aquatime

r

collection,consistingofninewatchesin

total,offersa49mmperpetualcalendar

withdigitaldateandmonthindicators.

Thistitaniumwatch,finished in ro

se

goldandclad in rubber, isthebigges

t

IWC wristwatch since the illustriou

s

B-UhrorBigPilotfrom1940.Wekno

w

the automatic calendar movemen

t

usedforthiswatchfromotherproduc

t

families.This perpetual diver

comes in a limited edition of

50pieces.

AquatimerChronographEditionExpeditionCharlesDarwinAs if the striking manufacture

chronograph movement with the

intuitive monocounter wasnt

enough, this 44mm divers chrono-

graph also has a high-quality

bronze alloy case. This material

is alivewithout staining and it is

also a direct nautical referenceto

Darwins shiptheHMSBeagle.FYI:

this first IWCwatch inbronze isnotalimitededition.

AquatimerDeepThreeAfter the iconic Deep

One and the not-quite-as-

successful Deep Two thereis

now,entirelyinlinewithexpec-

tations, a DeepThree. Andthis

onedefinitelyhitsthemark.The

46mm watch is made of tita-

nium, sports the immaculately

functioning SafeDive mecha-

nism and features an appea-

ling mechanical depth gauge.

In its designthewatch is also

reminiscent of the legendary

Ocean2000.

3

3

SIHH 2014

IWC

8

8

2

3

3

4

4



K

K

AquatimerAutomatic2000

The name Big Diver would be appro-

priateforthiswatchwhich, interms of

appeal,rivalsIWCsBigPilot.Itisafunctio-

nalmasterpiecewithcarefullyconsidered

aesthetics.Water resistantto 2,000m, a

46mmtitaniumcase,a robust 80110 cali-

brefromthecompanysownmanufacture

inSchaffhausenandtwodifferentSuper-

Luminovacoloursonthedialsforoptimal

readabilitywithoutdangerouserrors.Also

strikingaretheblack crownpro-tectorandthebeautifuld

ial.

TWO SYSTEMS

IN ONE

K

K

Accordingtothehead

ofthedesigndepartment,

ChristianKnoop,IWCis

muchmorethanjustawatch

brand.Surprising.He

explainswhyandofcourse

wealsotalkaboutthe

redesignedAquatimers.

W

hile the main courses

are being served in the

restaurant, ChristianKnoop talks about his five years at

IWC. The new Aquatimers are the

dessert. A headhunter approached

me about his job, but didnt tell me what

company it was. They were looking for a

creative person for a watch brand that had a

360-degree view of the brand as a whole and

was not just knowledgeable about watches.

When the mystery brand turned out to be IWC

I was extremely pleased. The broad approach I

would be able to adopt particularly appealed to

me. As a child I was always drawing, but I cant

remember ever sketching a watch... Needless

to say, my interest in watches has developed

enormously these past few years

and working with a team of 15 highly

talented designers has taught me a

lot. From the watch to the brochure

to the interior of the boutique, I enjoy

designing the entire package. Dont

get me wrong, I love designing a watch, but I

dont consider myself a watch designer.

Memories of 1967

And so we noiselessly and smoothly transition

to the underwater world of the Aquatimer:

I consider the 1982 Porsche Design Ocean 2000

an iconic watch. This first titanium watch ever

made by IWC was designed by Ferdinand A.

Porsche, a man who designed many different

objects, a legend. The 2014 Aquatimers may

not look much like the illustrious

8

9

Ocean 2000, but I definitely wasinspired by the pure design andperfect aesthetics. Still, the bezelinparticularisreminiscentofthefirst Aquatimer from 1967. Thiswatchhad thediving ringon theedge of the dial instead of the traditionalringontopof thecase.ThenewAquatimeractually has a dual system: by turningthe outer bezel the diving ring inside thewatch revolves. IWC called thismechanismthe SafeDive system and combines theadvantagesofbothsystems. Aribbedbezeliseasiertooperatewhenwearingdivingglovesthananextracrown,andascaleonthedialcanbe readmore accurately than numbersonan external bezel. A linkingmechanisminstalledontheoutsideofthecaseat9oclockconnectsthetworings.Thesystem works extremely smoothlyand accurately and because it

isopen,watercanautomaticallyrinsethemechanismclean.

9

9

5

5

6

6


38/84


39/84



5

5

9

reservethankstotwospringbarrels.The 43.5mm white gold QuantimePerptuel Equation is 16mmhigh andin this modest space the movement,consistingof570decoratedcomponents,does itsperpetualjob.Thestartingpointwas the development of an easy-to-operate calendar movement that couldbemoved forward aswell as backward.Clear readability was also high on thelistofprioritiesforbothmen,plusanewway to show the equation of time, thedifference between the local mean time and thesolartime.GreubelFo

rseyoptedforasystemusingtwotransparentdiscs,whichshowswhenthesolartimeandthetimeweuseonadailybasisoverlap.The result of years of thinking, building, testingand startingall over again is a completelynew and fully integratedmechanism thatrequires a lot of knowledgeofmovementstofullyunderstandit.

9

SIHH 2014

8

Quantime Perptuel Equation GF 07Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have a

revolving obsession called a tourbillon and they

have shared their obsession with the public on

several occasions in many different but always

dazzling manifestations. And now they have

set their sights on the perpetual calendar

which comes with an ultra-accurate tourbillon,

obviously. The patented 24-second tourbillon,

positioned at a 25-degree angle, serves as the

regulating body for a movement

that ticks at 21,600 vibrations per

hour and has a 72-hour power

GreubelForsey

AutomotiveFlying

Tourbillon

AmericanfashionkingRalph

Laurenis a

passionate collector of classic

cars and a

serious connoisseur ofhaute

horlogerie.

Thefleetofthemostsuccessfulp

olosalesmaninthe

worldisimpressive,andthesa

mecanbesaidofhis

watchcollection.Whatisimpossible

withclassical

cars canbe donewhenit co

mestomechanical

watches:sellinghautehorlog

erieunderyourown

name andthenputtingtho

se creationsunder

theumbrellaoftheRichemon

tGroupsoyouhave

accesstomovementslikethos

eofJaeger-LeCoultre,

forexample.Surprisinglyenou

ghthecalibreRL167

thatisusedinthe Automoti

veFlyingTourbillon

is built by La Fabrique du T

emps, a movement

companythatisnowpartofth

ecompetingLVMH

conglomerate.Abeautiful au

tomaticmovement,

incidentally,featuringadelica

temicro-rotor.

The watch combines the p

assions of Ralph

Lauren in every detail. The

complicated

tourbillonmovement satisfi

esthewatch

connoisseur in him andthe appearance

ofthewatchreflectshisdeep

loveforthe

classical automobile. This is because the

black steel Automotive Flying Tourbillon

with a sizeable diameter of 45mm is

modelled after one of the most famous

cars in history, a jet-black 1938 Bugatti

57SC Atlantic Coup that occupies a prominent

spot in Ralph Laurens coach house. The elm

burlwood around the edge of the dial is alsoused in the dashboard of this voluptuously

shaped top classic, of which four were only ever

built, and both the Arabic numerals and the

plain hands of the watch are modelled after

the Jaeger instruments in the Bugattis cockpit.

For $80,000 a pittance compared to the cars

estimated value of $40 million you can buy

this interpretation of Ralph Laurens passion,

which will look particularly good when you are

driving a restored cabriolet through a sleepy

Provenal town with your arm resting casually

on the drivers door. Please make sure to wear

a polo shirt featuring the logo of a polo

player rather than a crocodile... Ralphwill appreciate that.

Lauren6

6

Ralph


41/84



Collection Villeret 1885Exo-Tourbillon RattrapanteThe word exo means on the outside and

this applies to two aspects of this complicated

pinnacle of the new SIHH 2014 collection. Firstly,

the sizeable tourbillon mechanism is positioned

next to and therefore outside the movement

and secondly the balance doesnt oscillate inside

but outside the tourbillon cage. Furthermore, the

tourbillon cage is smaller than the balance, which

is positioned above the tourbillon. This mechanism

was constructed to save energy and the

effort has been successful. Because the

balance doesnt have to support the weight

of the tourbillon cage the ExoTourbillon

needs 30% less energy than comparable

traditional movements with tourbillon.

The construction method with the two different-

sized movement components provides an optical

treat, as the revolving tourbillon is beautifully

visible in the heart of the oscillating balance.

The white gold 47mm watch provides even more

visual spectacle. The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante

is a regulator watch with a large central minute

hand, a minute indicator at 9 oclock and two hour

hands (the blued hand for the local time and the

grey hand for the second time zone) and a day/

night indicator at 4 oclock. The cherry on the top is

formed by the two central seconds handsfor the rattrapante function that move,

stop, jump and reunite like an haute

horlogerie ballet. Only 18 copies will be

made of this watch.76

SIHH 2014

Meisterstck HeritagePerpetual CalendarWith the Meisterstck Montblanc not only

aims to show its heritage in the form of a clas-

sic watch collection, the Watch House which

originates from Hamburg also wants to demon-

strate and expand its Swiss watch side and access a

large target group. By opting for a series of recognisa-

ble watches that comfortably meet all the criteria of

a classic wristwatch and, at the same time, keeping

the prices in the entry-level category, Montblanc is

playing a trump card. An achievable high point in

the Meisterstck Heritage collection is undoubte-

dly this model with perpetual calendar. In steel this

watch costs 10,000 euro and a price of 16,500 euro

has been set for the rose gold version. Serious money,

obviously, but in the world of the perpetual calendar

this is extremely competitive, maybe even aggressive

pricing. For this serious amount you will get a dial

with a harmonious layout. This is what a perpetual

calendar looks like: no frills, no surprises,

Mont

blanc5

3

3

8

8

8

MeisterstckHeritageMoonphaseYou cant get more classic than with

a moon phase watch. It is a highly

traditional complication that has been

perfected many times and yet never

tsboring. The moon may no longer play a

ominent roleinmodernlife,buttheaesthetic

ualities of the moon are indisputable. The

oon phase indicator of the Meisterstck

eritage Moonphase has been integrated in

hesubsidiarydatedialat6oclock. Themoondisplayedinabeautifullytraditional manner

ndsoitshouldbe inawatchthatnotonlyhas

classic name but, at 39mm, also has avery

onservativecasesize. Thebezelisnarrowand

olished, sothe39mmlooksanythingbutsmall.

he automatic calibre MB 29.14 is revealed

hroughthesapphirecrystal case-backandthe

otor and golden balance are particularly eye-

atching. The alligator strap completes

hisMeisterstck.Inthesummerof2014

ouwill be able to choose between a

ery subtle and accessible steel version

rawarmlyglowingvariant inrosegold.3

andthatwas exactlytheintentio

n.

Thisisanarchetypalcalendarwatc

h

andthatisalsoclearfromthemodest39mm

caseinwhichtheautomaticcalibre

MB29.15

powersthetimeandcalendarfunc

tionsfor

alleternity.Masterfulhautehorlog

erieforthemas-

ses.Orsomeofthemasses,anyway.

8


43/84


44/84


45/84


46/84


47/84


48/84


49/84



7

3

SIHH 2014Malte Tourbillon

Those who would like a tonneau-shaped, platinum

Malte and also appreciate an accurately

spinning tourbillon but dont feel the need for

a transparent mechanism on their wrist can

always opt for the Malte Tourbillon that was

added to the Collection Excellence Platine this

year. Both the case and the dial are made of

intensely shiny, heavy platinum. Platinum

is also used in the silk thread used to stitch

the alligator strap. The 38 x 48.24mm casehouses the custom-shaped calibre 2795

that was designed and built in Vacheron

Constantins own manufacture. It has a

frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and

a power reserve of 45 hours. All 50 copies to

be made of this Malte Tourbillon

will have the Geneva quality seal.

Mtiers dArt McaniquesAjouresSkeletonising is a painfully precise job that

requires tremendous handcrafting skills.

It is sometimes considered a complication, but in

real terms skeletonising has no functional qualities,

just aesthetic ones, and is therefore not recognised

as such. However, that doesnt make a meticulously

skeletonised movement any less impressive. Vacheron

Constantin has a rich tradition of skeletonised

watches in which the four new Mtiers dArt

Mcaniques Ajoures watches three versions with aring on the outside of the dial in black, blue and grey

Grand Feu enamel and one variant with black enamel

and a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds have a

prominent position. The calibre 4400 SQ is an open-

worked variant of the hand-wound calibre 4400, and

the way in which the excess material is removed is

inspired by the arches found in architecture. Picture

19th-century train stations with their arched

steel constructions, or the arches in a Gothic

cathedral.

MalteTourbillon

Openworked

Delicate and prestigious, the Malte

Tourbillon Openworked has an almost

diaphanous skeletonised calibre 2790

SQthat needs no architectural inspiratio

n.This

movement is a more traditional but n

o less

artistically designed tour de force, whic

h is

essentially the custom-shaped calibre 27

90

thatticksat18,000steadyvibrationsperho

ur.

Althoughalotofmaterialhasbeenremov

ed,

somethingshavebeen added, aswell:tw

o

functions, namely apower reserve indica

tor

andadate indicator. Thisnot only increases

thenumberofcomponentsbutalsotheheig

ht.

Notthataheightof6.1mmisparticularlyt

hick,

but we thought wed mention it. The M

alte

TourbillonOpenworked, which is only ava

ilable

inplatinum,measures38x48.24x12.73mm

.

3

8

8

8

8

7

Vacheron

Constantin


51/84



SIHH 2014 By Lex Stolk

Complicated,

fashionable trumpcards

SIHH flashback

The deck has been shuffled and split and the

cards are face-up on the table. As always,

Richard Mille was bluffing and mocking with

G-forces, with a complete poker face A. Lange

& Shne presents yet another astonishing

German complication and this year Panerai

hid two trump cards in its vest pocket.

However, once analysed, the trend of the

most-visited SIHH ever is more substantial,

subtle and level than the previous edition.

F

ashionable horloge-

rieand small, thin

complications, two

trends that stand

out at the Salon International

de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).

We start with relatively little

complexity but a high level of

style. Audemars Piguets Royal

Oak Offshore Chronograph in a

steel 42mm case is available in

a number of versions. The Navy

in blue with orange and the

sand-coloured Safari with brown details look

fresh and modern, but it is definitely the version

with a subtle slate-grey dial and perfectly mat-

ching alligator strap with sharp crease in the

middle (referred to as hornback) that stands

out as the most trendy and ultra-modern. Its

look is perfect and subtly sophisticated and

just one more year we will overlook the fact

that the watch does not have an integrated

proprietary chronograph movement. As a side

note, to the somewhat sarcastic comment that

the lack of a manufacture movement is not

(yet) a problem for the companys clientele and

Audemars Piguet therefore doesnt have to rush

to create a new proprietary calibre, head desig-

ner Octavio Garcia responded with an equally

sarcastic Yeah, thats exactly why. Or was he

serious? Either way, this year the vulnerable

rubber has been replaced by ceramic and the

overall package of details has been given a

much more subtle and top-quality style with

the intriguing grey, glowing variant as the

luxury trendsetter.

When Roger Dubuis focuses on the past and

exercises restraint the brand comes up with an

unexpectedly strong contender. Forget double

flying tourbillons and behold the 42mm white

gold Hommage Automatic. This basic model

combines an almost disco-worthy exterior that

shimmers like the interior of a trendy club with

Poinon de Genve quality. The Hommage

Automatic is basic as only a Roger Dubuis watch

can be basic. This effect is achieved with thecombination of a dial with manually applied

guilloch that throws back the light and the

automatic calibre RD620 manufacture move-

7

7

Rog

er

Du

bu

isH

ommage

Auto

mati

c


53/84WATCHWORLD 53

7

ment with micro-rotor. The signature of master

watchmaker Roger Dubuis, which is engraved

in the sapphire crystal case-back, is a subtle and

dignified tribute.

Extremes with substance

Complexity in increasingly smaller spaces

is the motto. At Jaeger-LeCoultre the

complicated movements increasingly show

up in shrinking watch cases and the rose

gold 41mm Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731

is equally modest in its dimensions. This

model was actually presented just before the

SIHH, but the Geneva watch salon was the

7

7

DEVILISHDILEMMAIWCAQUATIMERAUTOMATIC VS. CARTIERCALIBREDECARTIERDIVER

first opportunity to experience the model

physically and acoustically. Named for the

year founder Jean-Marc Vacheron was born,

the calibre 1731 movement with minute

repetition has a height of just 3.9mm and

the watch as a whole is a mere 8.09mm high;

the thinnest watch of its kind currently in

production. Incidentally, the movement is not

just thin, it is also ingenious with the use of

a completely silent striking mechanism. The

fact that the watch is the epitome of carefully

balanced style with small seconds between

7 and 9 oclock makes it even more desirable.

Equally small, subtle and restrained, but

many times more accessible, is the Montblanc

Meisterstck Heritage Perpetual Calendar,

with a highly traditional steel 39mm case.

Within the restrictions of a classical calendar

watch this creation is a resounding surprise.

For approximately 8,000 you will get a

perpetual calendar that is accurate until 2100,

in a classic design that was realised under the

supervision of former Jaeger-LeCoultre top

man Jrme Lambert pedigree always shows.

With the Meisterstck collection as a whole,

but particularly with this model, the new CEO

of Montblanc is showing us the direction he

plans to take and that gives the critical watch

aficionado courage and confidence. What a

strong trump card.

Whichof thesetwowatches doyouprefer?Tell us onwww.0024watchworld.com,whereyouwill alsocanfindthetop5favouriteSIHHwatches from0024editors LexStolkandKristianHaagen.

IWC

42mm steelwater resistantto300m automaticmovementbasedonthe ETA2892-Awitha42-hour powerreserve external/internal divingring withSafeDive

system price: 4,990

CARTIER42mm steel waterresistantto300m automaticmanufacture

movement1904MCwith48-hourpower reservedivingringfea-turesADLCcoatingforsmoothoperation ISO6425-certieddiverswatch price:5,700

7

7M

ontbla

nc

Me

iste

rst

ckH

erit

age

Perpetua

lC

ale

nd

ar

Au

demarsPiguetRoyalOakOffsho

re

Chronograph42mm

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731



SIHH 2014 By Lex Stolk, pictures Van Cleef & Arpels



PLANETARY

POETRYover

Paris andNijehaske

Let me start by confessing something.

I am not a patriot. I dont feel proud

of my homeland Holland to me

it is simply a random geographical

location on our planet in an endless universe

where I was plonked down unasked and

yet, I have recently started to understand a

little of how it feels to burst with pride when

the Netherlands is in the game. Strangely

enough this revelation did not come to me

while watching football or some other sport,

but in a temporary presentation room during

the Geneva SIHH watch salon, when the name

Christiaan van der Klaauw was mentioned

during the unveiling of the Midnight

Plantarium Poetic Complication by Van Cleef

& Arpels. The astronomical masterpiece was

realised in collaboration with the Watch House

from Friesland, a region in the Northern part of

the Netherlands, and that announcement made

me nudge the people to the right and left of me

and nod at them with a self-satisfied expression.

There you go, thats the Netherlands for you, is

the message.

Obviously there isnt really anything for me

to be proud of. However, Danil Reintjes,

co-owner of the Watch House that specialises

in celestial bodies definitely has reason to feel

proud. Together with the team of specialists in

the workshop in the Dutch village Nijehaske

he made sure that the poetic dream of VanCleef & Arpels could become reality. It is an

honour that the famous Parisian jeweller, who

has been based in the famous Place Vendme

Planets like precious stones in a miniature universe. The jewelexperts at Van Cleef & Arpels are responsible for designing the

44mm firmament and the specialists in the area of astronomi-

cal complications at Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical

Watches ensure that everything rotates around each other.

Parisian flair and precision from the Dutch village Nijehaske

combine to make astronomically correct watch poetry.



since 1906 and whose creations are worn by

Royals, jetsetters and idols like Grace Kelly and

Elizabeth Taylor, contacted a watchmaker in a

Dutch province.

But at the same time, its only logical: Christiaan

van der Klaauws Planetarium watch from the

late 1990s has earned a very prominent place

in the history of the astronomical watch. The

watch is among the high points of the haute

horlogerie and obviously the people in Paris

came to the same conclusion. For the realisation

of a much-talked-about and visually astounding

complication they had to get in touch with

Friesland.

That initial contact was made around

three years ago, Reintjes tells us after the

presentation which is accompanied by

thrumming animated films when we are

walking to the glass case where the real watch

sparkles in a bright spotlight. I was invited to

come to Paris to talk about the idea. Once we

agreed on the basics it became a long process

of back and forth suggestions, he explains

while he opens a notebook. Look, these are

the first sketches and suggestions for the case.

Obviously it had to be a Van Cleef watch and

not a Van der Klaauw, so in my capacity asdesigner I had to work in a different way. Now

I tend to be stubborn, so we had our moments

along the way.

Celestial body on the wristThe French/Dutch collaboration ultimately

resulted in the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight

Plantarium Poetic Complication, a 44mm

rose gold watch that is surprisingly thin for

such a complicated creation, but more about

that later. First lets take a look at the dial.

This is dominated by seven discs made of

aventurine (a quartz crystal with encapsulated

sparkling mineral particles) with in between,

on miniscule stems, the different planets in our

solar system that revolve at the true speed of

their orbit around the central sun. For the sake

of clarity and from slow to fast: Saturn (sugilite)

makes one full revolution of the dial in 29 years,

Jupiter (blue agate) does it in just under 12 years,

Mars (red jasper) in 687 days, Earth (turquoise)

in the familiar 365 days, Venus (rubellite) a little

faster in 224 days and Mercury (serpentine)

much faster in 88 days. The mechanism,

which is added as a module to the basic RD821

movement by Roger Dubuis, is a creation of the

specialists at Van der Klaauw and consists of an

impressive 396 components.

The astronomical module in combination

with the basic automatic movement caused

quite a few headaches, says Reintjes: We have

a Planetarium watch in our own collection

and although we were able to draw on our

knowledge of that watch, this is quite a

different, much smaller planetarium. So really

we started from scratch. Because the hour

display was positioned on the outside we had

to start working from the inside with the sun

as the centre, and that requires quite a different

construction than our own planetarium.

Furthermore, we encountered the problem of

the rotor when we decided to put the calendar

indicators on the back.

The influence of Van Cleef & Arpels can be seen

in a number of different aesthetic aspects. The

Watch House has considerable expertise when

it comes to precious stones, and that manifests

itself in the different types of gemstones used

for the planets. Each planet is made from a

characteristic stone not perfectly round like

the planets themselves and they circle around

a rose gold sun.However accurately everything revolves, it

is impossible to tell the time intuitively

and anyway, that wouldnt be poetic at all.

Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight

Plantarium Poetic Complication

SIHH 2014

We didnt start with a mechanical

concept, but with an idea



Consequently there are no traditional hands

and those who want to tell the time must

search the firmament for a shooting star thatrevolves around the scale on the outside of the

dial in a 24-hour period. Incidentally, the watch

also shows the day, date and year, and these can

be set via the push-buttons on the side of the

case. To read these functions the watch must be

turned upside down: the transparent case-back

reveals these earthly functionalities.

Shooting starsThe frivolous, unique and poetic highpoint of

the watch is the star engraved in the crystal.

By revolving the beautifully notched bezel and

indicating a special day with the use of a red

triangle a birthday, Mothers Day, Valentines

Day, a wedding day, you name it the user will

see that when that special day has arrived the

blue earth is positioned exactly underneath

the star. Astronomical precision and a touch

of eccentric poetry is obviously limited and

doesnt come cheap. The final price of the

Midnight Plantarium Poetic Complicationwill be somewhere around 185,800. But apart

from a unique, creative piece, this watch is

also a technical masterpiece. Just look at the

relatively thin case. This is the hobbyhorse of

Denis Giguet, Technical Director of the horology

department at Van Cleef & Arpels.

It was a fight for millimetres, no, tenths of

millimetres, Giguet tells us with a proud

smile. Everything had to be kept as thin as

possible. The module on the basic movement,

but especially also the planets that had to move

between the discs of the dial components, had

to be kept as low as possible. I dont know how

many times I sent people back to their desk

disappointed with the instruction to go lower.

Im afraid for a while I wasnt very popular.

An astronomical module deals with strong

forces and when the cogwheels become too

thin the functioning of the watch may be

jeopardised, so it was quite a tall order to

stay within the set limits of 13.4mm, but we

managed to do it without compromising on the

very highest quality. This insistence on a certain

maximum height has mostly to do with our

philosophy, because at Van Cleef we dont start

with a mechanical concept but with an idea,

a story we want to tell. This idea then comes

to life for our CEO Nicolas Bos, the marketing

department in Paris, our designers in Geneva

and, in the case of our astronomical tour de

force, the people at Van der Klaauw as well. Only

once the idea is sufficiently crystallised and it

looks as if from a technical point of view the

watch is possible do we make the first sketches.

Some of those early sketches in Danil Reintjes

notebook feature the shooting star that is also

present in the final watch, although not quite

the same. I really wanted to do something

exciting with that shooting star, Reintjes

explains. Instead of letting that star revolve in

a 24-hour period I thought it would be a nice

idea to let the star shoot to the right time by

means of a special system. By pushing a button

you would change the static star into a shooting

star. But that would have taken far too much

space and unfortunately that is something we

didnt have. I also had to give up my idea of

excentric orbits for the planets.

It may be a pity that Reintjes idea died a quiet

death, but in the name of the all-important

aesthetics even the brand name Van Cleef

& Arpels didnt manage to make it into the

foreground. Of course we could have put

the name somewhere on the dial or in the

crystal, but that wouldnt have done justice to

the watch so we didnt, Giguet explains this

integrity. Nothing is allowed to compromisethe aesthetics of our watches, not even our own

logo. This is the kind of French hard-headedness

they understand in Friesland.

I wanted to use a shooting star,but that took too much space


58/84

Time

Every day the watch confronts us

with the passing of the hours and

minutes: the hands spin round

and round and the time is elusive.

For some the traditional, round

watch cases are an ironic symbol

of the treadmill on which we find

ourselves, but for watch aficiona-

dos the circle represents eternity

and perfection. The perfect sym-metry, the countless ways to lay

out the dial, the division into

hours and minutes... And, every

day again: a new round, new

opportunities, as soon as the hour

hand and the seconds hand join

each other at 12 oclock.

PHOTOSHOOT

By: Britta Rossander, pictures: Eric SattenSet designer: Niklas Hansen/Link Details

Special thanks to: Nymans Ur 1851, Krons Ur and Bo Berggren Urhandel

0024 WATCHWORLD58

goesround

roundand


59/84

HERMS DRESSAGE QUANTIME SIMPLEMaterial: steelSize: 40.5 x 38.4mmMovement: automatic, calibre Vaucher H1837Power reserve:

50 hoursFunctions:

hours, minutes, seconds, date at 6 oclock

BREGUET MARINE AUTOMATIC BIG DATEMaterial: steelDiameter: 39mmMovement: automatic, calibre 517GGPower reserve: 65 hoursFunctions: hours, minutes, seconds, date

0024 WATCHWORLD 59


60/84

TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 1887 JACK HEUER CHRONOGRAPHMaterial: titaniumDiameter: 45mmMovement: automatic, calibre 1887

Power reserve: 50 hoursFunctions: chronograph, pulsometer, tachymeter, date

BULGARI ENDURER CHRONOSPRINT

Material: steel Diameter: 56mmMovement: automatic, calibre DR 1306

Power reserve: 45 hoursFunctions: date, second time zone

0024 WATCHWORLD60

PHOTOSHOOT


61/84

BREITLING TRANSOCEAN CHRONOGRAPHMaterial: steeland rose goldDiameter: 43mm

Movement: automatic, calibre Breitling 01

Power reserve: 70 hours

Functions: chronograph, date

0024 WATCHWORLD 61



PHOTOSHOOT


63/84

CHOPARDCLASSIC

Material:white goldDiameter:33mm

Movement: automatic,calibreSellitaSW300

Powerreserve: 42hours

Functions:hours,minutes,seconds, date

LOUISVUITTONTAMBOUR

EVOLUTIONGMTCHRONOGRAPH

Material: steelDiameter: 45mm

Movement:automatic, calibre LV92

Power reserve:42 hoursFunctions:chronograph,

GMT, dayandnight indicator

0024 WATCHWORLD 63


64/84

OMEGASEAMASTERAQUATERRA>15000GAUSS

Material: steelDiameter:41.5mmMovement:automatic,Co-Axial calibre8508

Powerreserve:60hoursFunctions:chronometer,date

IWC PORTOFINOAUTOMATIC

Material:steelDiameter: 40mmMovement:automatic,calibre35110

Power reserve:42hoursFunctions:hours,minutes,seconds,date

0024 WATCHWORLD64

PHOTOSHOOT


65/84

ROLEXOYSTERPERPETUAL DAY-DATEMaterial:white goldDiameter: 36mmMovement: automatic, calibre 3155Powerreserve: 48hoursFunctions:day anddate indicator,stopseconds

0024 WATCHWORLD 65


66/84

INTERVIEW By Lex Stolk, pictures Herms

Arceau Lift

0024 WATCHWORLD66


67/84

WATCHEShave moregrowth potentialthan LEATHER

and SILK

The watch campaign ofHerms CEO Luc Perramond

The Herms flagship store in the

Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor

in Paris looks like a fortress.

Look up from the street and see

how a horseman keeps a close

eye on everything from the roof.

The saddle makers of yesteryear

built an emporium based on

traditional quality and today it

is filled with a range of luxury

goods, including watches.

Increasingly complicated

watches intended to conquer

the world. 0024 WatchWorld

talks to CEO Luc Perramond in

the Parisian bulwark.

The Herms head office is a real

labyrinth. Behind the facade of

the several-stories-high flagship

people are hard at work in countless

uneven-floored offices in narrow hallways that

unpredictably meander to the left and then

suddenly veer off at right angles. In one of these

rooms CEO Luc Perramond awaits us to talk

about the Arceau Lift the most complicated

Herms watch creation and the watch strategy

of the house in general. Luc Perramond never

gives the impression that he is holding anything

back. He tells things the way they are, nothing

more, nothing less. So no diversions or smokes-

creens when we ask him about the movement

of the recently revealed Arceau Lift. The

movement was built in conjunction with the

specialists at La Joux-Perret, Perramond tells us.

Since 2006 we have been investing in Vaucher

for the manufacture of our own movements

Luc Perramond

0024 WATCHWORLD 67


68/84

but this highly complicated calibre, of which

only very few copies are being made, is a job for

specialists.

Which doesnt mean that the integration of the

different facets of watchmaking doesnt keep

on progressing. Since 2011 we have shares in

case producer Erard and last year we became

the full owner of Nateber, a producer of dials.

That shows that we are ambitiously working

on establishing Herms as an integrated watch

producer.

The magic (marketing) word manufacture

comes up. We currently control three strate-

gic components of a watch: the movement,

the case and the hands, Perramond explains.

That we make our own leather straps goes

without saying and together with those other

three components around 95 percent and

sometimes even more of the components of

a Herms watch actually come from Herms.

Talking about manufacture; we are the only

watch house that makes its own leather straps.

Every watch has hands, but they are still

lacking in the component chain forged by Her-

ms. Perramond knows why this is: Although

the hands are an essential component of a

watch, I still think they are a component that

we have to integrate in our house. To be cost-

efficient hands must be produced on a large

scale, and we are simply not big enough. Other

watch brands dont really have something that

fits in with our strategy, so we purchase hands

elsewhere. We do business with the best Swiss

hand makers to make sure that our quality

standards are never compromised. Now we can

focus on our latest acquisitions and develop

them to the best of our ability; in the area of

quality as well as quantity.

That comment takes us to the growth of Her-

ms as a watch brand. Haute horlogerie has

conquered the world and Herms wants a sha-

re of it, but that is only possible if enough inte-

resting mechanical watches can distributed

around the world. At Herms watches are con-

sidered a growth product, Perramond reveals,

not entirely unexpectedly. Luxury watches are

a business unit that has more growth potential

than the more established product catego-

ries like leather and silk. We have enormous

potential with our watches. With a turnover of

176 million, watches currently constitute 5% of

the total Herms turnover. I believe that with

the production of our watches we can grow

that to a 10% share, which is why we continue

to invest in products with added value that

will surprise our customer base when it comes

to creativity and innovation. With the new

Arceau Lift we have created a serious complica-

tion that will stand firmly alongside our poetic

complications like Le Temps Suspendu. When it

comes to traditional as well as c reative compli-

cations, the world will hear from us. Come and

take a look at BaselWorld 2014, when it is once

again time for complicated technology and

poetry i

watch world magazine - spring 2014 in

Documents