wave action

10
Wave Action Section 13.1

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Wave Action. Section 13.1. What is a wave?. Wave – movement of energy through a body Wave size depends on: strength of wind length of time wind blows distance over which wind blows. What is a wave?. Wave molecules move in a circular motion - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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Page 1: Wave Action

Wave Action

Section 13.1

Page 2: Wave Action

What is a wave?

• Wave – movement of energy

through a body

• Wave size depends on:strength of wind

length of time wind blows

distance over which wind blows

Page 3: Wave Action

What is a wave?• Wave molecules move

in a circular motion• Molecules at the

surface move in a bigger circle than those that are deeper

• At a certain depth, water is not affected by the wave

Page 4: Wave Action

What is a wave?

Crest – highest point

Trough – lowest point

Wavelength – distance from crest to crest

Wave height – distance from crest to trough

Page 5: Wave Action

Crest

Trough

Wavelength Wave height

Wave Depth ishalf the wavelength

Page 6: Wave Action

How waves change near shore

• Breakers – white capped waves that crash onto

the shore

Friction on the bottom slows the wave down.Wave height increases and wave length decreases.

Page 7: Wave Action

How waves change near shore

• Tsunamis – usually caused by an earthquake

beneath the ocean floor

Page 8: Wave Action

How waves affect the shore

• Longshore Drift – the movement of sand as water washes up and carries sand along the beach

Page 9: Wave Action

How waves affect the shore

• Rip current- a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening