welding project - build your own texas grill - lincoln electric
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8/2/2019 Welding Project - Build Your Own Texas Grill - Lincoln Electric
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ing Project: Build Your Own Texas Grill | Lincoln Electric http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/bbq.as
22/09/2006
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Build Your Own Texas Grill
If you are a traditional barbecue
connoisseur like me, then this is your grill.
Don’t you love that smooth smoky flavor
charcoal lends to all your grilled foods? To
make sure you have a grill that can handle
the heavy season of barbecue parties and
get-togethers you’re planning, let’s talk a
little bit about pulling this project together.
This is a do-it-yourself welding project that
won’t cost a fortune to build. And, with theright equipment this project requires only
one person with little to no welding
experience. A great start for the metal working hobbyist. If you’ve never welded before,
just practice for an hour or so on scrap metal.
To get started, I walked down to my workshop, eyed my trusty Lincoln Electric AC-225 stick welder, saw my tool box and smiled
as the light bulb flashed above my head. A large Texas grill, just like the one’s you see on TV was what I needed for a season of
fun filled barbecues. It wouldn’t require much – just an empty liquid barrel (be sure it has not contained any flammable or harmful
chemicals), some pieces of angle iron, a grill of some sort, and maybe a couple of added touches!
You can see from the list of materials, tools you’ll need and the all important safety equipment below – the trouble of where and
how to get started on this great project has been done for you. So what do you say – let’s get started!
Strips of angle iron
Lincoln Electric Fleetweld 35 (6011) stick electrode
A pair of 7” wheels with bolts (Lawn Mower Wheels)
A liquid barrel – IMPORTANT! the barrel must be a liquid barrel that is sealed on
both sides, but make sure it has not contained any FLAMMABLE SUBSTANCES.
You can pick one up from a number of places and certain manufacturers may be
willing to give you one for free.
1" x 4" cedar board for shelving.
3 3” butt hinges
A handle – 1" strip of steel and a 1” wood dowel
Once home, I prepared my tools. To complete this project the way I wanted, I knew just what I needed, although there are anumber of variations that I could have used. See below
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Measure out the angle iron, keeping in mind that the BBQ should sit about waist
level. Placing each piece into your table clamp [see photo], and cut through the
angle iron with a jig saw. It should cut fairly easily. Some of the cuts will need
to be at 45° angles so that they fit properly against opposing pieces. At this
stage, you may want to form the metal strip for the handle and cut the cedar planks to
size for the side shelves.
With all the pieces laid out, it’s time to start welding. Ventilation is important
so make sure you have the garage door or the windows open before you begin.
If you have a portable fan, turn that on too. Place the pieces that will make
one-half the BBQ on the floor and measure the angles and diagonals to ensure
that the entire piece is square. Place the Fleetweld stick in the electrode holder and
attach the ground clamp to the work piece to complete the weld circuit. Set the
amperage to 90 (an appropriate setting for the type of electrode being used), and make a
small tack weld to each of the joints [see photo – notice the proper gear; a full-face
welding helmet and the right gloves]. Repeat these steps for the back half of the frame.
With the two halves welded, it is time to weld them together with the three
cross pieces [as in the photo]. In order to stand each half up independently, use
a C-clamp with a scrap piece of angle iron as a temporary kickstand for each
half.
Important – remember to repeat the measuring stage. Squaring off everything is
vital to ensure that you have a proper fit and that your BBQ will provide many
seasons of cooking pleasure. Measure the diagonals, vertical and horizontal line
between ends to be sure they are equal. Attach the ground clamp to the frame
and make tack welds to attach the crossbars to the front and rear frame.
After all the tack welds are complete, remove the temporary kickstands and
measure the angles to be sure that they are square. Using tack welds allows you
to easily separate the pieces if the it out of square. Once you are sure the frame
is square, weld over each joint, completing the welds.
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With the frame complete, let’s move on to the barrel. Again, make sure that the
liquid barrel you’ve selected has not contained any flammable or chemical
materials. The lid of the BBQ should be a quarter section of the barrel. So, lay
the barrel horizontally in the frame. Find the center of the barrel with your
measuring tape and mark off two chalk lines, intersecting in the center of the circle. It
should look like a cross hair at each end of the barrel, or a pie sliced into four even
pieces.
Stand the barrel up in a vertical position, on a level surface. Use a chalk line to
make a mark down the length of the cross hair [see photo]. This will create a
single segment from the barrel.
Once again, place the barrel in the frame. Using the jig saw, cut along the chalk
line. This will be the uppermost seam where the hinges will be placed.
After completing the first cut, attach the hinges. It is much easier to attach the
hinges before making the second cut.
After the hinges are attached, complete the remaining cuts with the jig saw,
using chalk lines as your guide. After completing the final cut, you will have a
working lid that is properly fitted. Remember that the edges are still rough, so
be careful handling the barrel. Using a metal file, dull the edges to prevent
unintended injury to yourself or others.
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A flip hatch on one end of the BBQ will allow for easy removal of ash buildup. Be
sure to place the hatch on the opposite end of where the handle will go. This will
make it easier to dump the ash. You can use the Harris® Port-a-Torch, it’s easy to
operate and slices through metal like butter. It comes as a complete kit with
everything you need. Put on your brazing goggles, rotate the valves (acetylene at 4, oxygen at
40) and make the first cut [see photo]. Again, you may want to attach the hinge before making
the remainder of the cuts for the door.
With the barrel complete, let’s move back to the frame and add some of the
final touches. First, set the frame on its side and chalk off a point at the bottom
leg opposite of where the handle will go. This is where you place the wheels.
Drill a pilot hole and then drill a full ½” hole in the two legs. Once this is
complete, slide the bolts through the holes, slide on the wheels, and secure a nut to the
opposite side to hold it in place.
Remember the cedar shelving? Well now it’s time to work on the frame for the
shelving. After all, this is where you will be doing your BBQ prep-work. Lay
the pieces on the ground and measure the same as in Step 2, making sure your
measurements are square, then tack weld the shelf frame together.
Now Now it’s time to weld the shelf frame to the main BBQ. But wait! You
will need something to hold it in place. Similar to the handy tip used in Step 3,
use a piece of scrap angle iron and your C-clamp and secure the shelf frame to
the upper area of the main frame [see photo]. This creates a temporary shelf,
allowing you to weld one side to the main frame. Repeat on opposite side.
IMPORTANT: make sure that the shelf is level. You may have to use a wedge
to prop it in place from underneath. Here’s another handy tip – a stick
electrode doubles as a great wedge because it can be adjusted by bending it.
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During this step you will find out why a liquid barrel works best for this
project. A liquid barrel is capped on both ends. This added bonus provides a
threaded hole for our chimney. By attaching a standard 2” elbow pipe and
screwing the whole piece into the opening, you have a simple, but very
effective chimney.
As for the handle, this gets attached just above the lower horizontal seam. First
screw the metal strip you made earlier in Step 1 into the barrel lid. As a second
step, put the dowel between the two ends of the strip and secure it with a screw
at each end. Wood is a great choice of material for a handle, because it is only
a moderate conductor of heat and will not be too hot to the touch.
You will need two pieces for the grill. Consider using some expanded stainless
steel cut to size, or you can pick up a grill grate or rack from your local home
improvement store. Or you can use the grill off an old BBQ. One word of
caution - be sure the grill is not painted. Use a smaller piece to set in low to
hold the charcoal and allow the ash to fall through. Use a larger piece that will sit up
higher and will act as the cooking surface.
As a final step, paint the entire BBQ (not the grill surfaces or cedar shelving)
with high temperature paint. It will provide a great finish and insurance against
rust and weather damage. When the paint is dry, place the cedar boards into
the shelving frame and the grates inside and presto!
Now you’re ready for some serious BBQ.
Safety Equipment: Fabrication tools:Long sleeve cotton shirt – don’t wear polyester!
Safety glasses
Welding helmet or face shield
Welding gloves
Brazing goggles
Lincoln Electric AC-225 Stick Welder
Jig Saw or Sabre Saw
Harris Port-a-Torch (oxy-acetylene cutter)
C-clamps
Measuring tape
Combination square
Hammer
4” grinder
Framing / Carpenter Square
Chipping Hammer
Wire Brush
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A small fan to move fumes out of the garage.
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To learn more about the AC- 225 welder Click here.
Or, read up on all you need to know about Fleetweld and other stick electrodes by Clicking here.
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This project has been published to show how individuals used their ingenuity for their own needs, convenience and enjoyment. Only limited details are available
and the projects have NOT been engineered by the Lincoln Electric Company. Therefore, when you use the ideas for projects of your own, you must develop your
own details and plans and the safety and performance of your work is your responsibility.