wfm 41 paris/new york aw2012 lite

02

PARISNEWYORKHONG KONG

2012-13Autumn / Winter

2012 No

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01Louis Vuitton

Erin by Erin Fetherston

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Dsquared2Dsquared 2

Manish Arora

Shiatzy Chen

Sonia Rykiel

Stella McCartney

Talbot Runhof

Tsumori Chisato

Valentino

Viktor & Rolf

Vivienne Westwood

Yohji Yamamoto

Yves Saint Laurent

Ann Demeulemeester

Anthony Vaccarello

Bernard Willhelm

Cacharel

Christophe Guillarme

Damir Doma

Guy Laroche

Isabel Marant

Junko Maeda

Junya Watanabe

Loewe

Luis Buchinho

Mugler

Rick Owens

Rochas

Rue Du Mail

3.1 Philip Lim

Alexander Wang

Anna Sui

BCBG

Betsey Johnson

Blanc De Chine

Calvin Klein

Christian V. Siriano

Diane Von Furstenberg

Derek Lam

Diesel

DKNY

Donna Karan

Douglas Hannant

Jason Wu

Lacoste

Marc By Marc Jacobs

Monique Lhuilier

Nanette Lepore

Narciso Rodriguez

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CONTENTS!"#$%&'()&*+,*-,.

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Agnes B

AF Vandervorst

Alexander McQueen

Atsuro Tayama

Balenciaga

Balmain

Barbara Bui

Chanel

Chloe

Comme Des Garcons

Costume National

Dior

Dries Van Noten

Giambattista Valli

Givenchy

Hermes

Jean Paul Gaultier

John Galliano

Kenzo

Lanvin

Leonard

Louis Vuitton

Miu Miu

Nina Ricci

Paul & Joe

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/01&23#4&'()&*+,*-,.Nicole Miller

Oscar De La Renta

Peter Som

Ports1961

Rag & Bone

Ralph Lauren

Rebecca Taylor

Vera Wang

J Mendel

Rachel Comey

Three As Four

Vivienne Tam

Y3

Zang Toi

International Fashion Designer

Hong Kong Young Knitwear

Competition 2012

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Christophe Guillarme

WFM Fashion from the Runway A/W 2012-13

4

阿尼亞斯貝延續了她用現實中存在的形象裝飾服裝的傳統，用綠色植物、夜晚路燈和酷勁十足的草邊卵石照片使長裙看上去別有風味。長連衣裙上的美觀印花圖案賦予了整個系列少女風韻，淡粉色和珊瑚色的柔軟針織衫增強了這種風韻。與之形成鮮明對比的是，黑色皮夾克、閃爍的星星和蛇皮印花衫似乎是為夜晚的城市設計的。

Agnes B

4

Paris A/W 2012-13

66

AF Vandevorst

比利時設計師Ann和Filip Vandevorst在新一季創造出極具誘人魅力的悶騷??系列。大氈帽和長圍巾將面容掩蓋，為設計注入一絲神秘感，而裸露的背部和半透明網紋上衣又帶出一份性感熱情。工業手套、過膝靴子以及束帶蕾絲緊身衣褲營造出“女主”形象，將這份挑逗進行到底。

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Sarah Burton has perfected the art of crafting drama into physical pieces. Opening the show with fitted, rippling dresses in heavy jacquard paired with fur ruffs and black visors gave rise to 18th century visions. To continue the extravaganza, cool, laser-cut, tufted sheaths were followed by silver-

a heady mix of deep pink, rich carmine and electric crimson.

Alexander McQueen

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10

Manipulating colour and texture, Atsuro

Tayama created a stellar collection that

brimmed with structure and originality.

Fitted, black jackets bore extended

collars and were dramatized with cool

leather toggles, while striking vermilion

coats were lavished with fur trim. In the

same spirit, rib-necked dresses were

interlaced with ribbons in deep red,

while maize and monochrome tracks

crisscrossed dramatic capes.

AtsuroTayama

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With ‘Warm in the Winter’ by Glass Candy as the backing track, Balenciaga presented an up-beat, innovative collection for the coming season. High-waisted, metallic jumpsuits, colour-blocked jackets with sculpted shoulders and printed blouson tops took viewers on a retro trip back to the 80s. Meanwhile, unfinished, cropped jackets, lime skirts and cool boots resonated with a hip vibe.

Balenciaga

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Inspired by a Faberge egg once owned by Elizabeth Taylor, Olivier Rousteing’s show dazzled with unabated opulence. Texture was the touchstone of the collection with nostalgic tapestries gracing bodices and square-shouldered jackets being embellished with shiny studs, shimmering pearls and glittering crystals. A tough, resilient look was imbued by lashings of leather and heavy beading that was beautifully countered by trousers in soft, apricot suede and split skirts in lush, velvet imprints.

Balmain

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Referenc ing the 80s g lamour epitomised by Bianca Jagger and Jerry Hall, Barbara Bui set out to recreate the era’s decadent e legance. Minimal ist pantsuits lent an androgynous appeal, while metallic fabrics and shimmers of gold reverberated with disco fever. Fusing the West with the East, an Asian undercurrent coursed through the collection with smoking jackets mimicking Chinese quilts, serpents spiralling across tops and tigers poised above thigh-high splits.

Barbara Bui

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Staged at the Grand Palais in Paris,

Karl Lagerfeld sent models with jewel-

encrusted eyebrows into a wintry

scene to wander amid stark, towering

crystals. Reinterpreting classic styles,

Lagerfeld created pantsuits with skirt

overlays from shiny tweed and solid

bolts of pure black, icy white and

granite grey. For outerwear, striking

coats were melded into start l ing

mineral shapes, were trimmed with

signature braiding or captivated with

blue.

Chanel

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For her second season at the helm of Chloe, Clare Waight Keller combined muted colours and palpable

texture to create an array of smart casual pieces. Elasticized skirts and baggy pants created relaxed

soft peach with winged collars, with shimmering quilted panels or layered with fawn lace struck a feminine

chord.

Chloe

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Paring everything back to its most basic form,

Rei Kawakubo sent models across a plywood

runway, unaccompanied by music, to parade

minimalist pieces in jolting colours. Fabulous,

highly-stylized coats snagged attention with

elongated sleeves and exaggerated hips

in siren red, hot pink and pretty lilac.

Patterns crept in with streaks of paint

converging across fatigue and animal

prints before giving way to all-

Comme Des Garcons

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Taking a walk on the dark side, Ennio Capasa

worked with a monochrome palette interspersed

with traces of red and beams of bright blue. An

abundance of leather and sharp, asymmetrical

lines gave rise to a harsh aesthetic that was

accentuated by tough, knee-high boots.

Meanwhile, gripping tops, sheer

fabrics, plunging necklines and

long gloves created a dangerous,

womanly allure

Costume National

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To the sound of crashing music, Bill

Gaytten paraded gorgeous, dance-

inspired pieces, alive with grace and

femininity. Belted waists and long,

whisper-thin skirts were followed by

tapered trousers, diaphanous layers

and whirling ethereal pleats in cerulean

blue, deep carmine and rich aubergine.

Fur and black leather endowed a sense

of gravitas, while embellished satin and

high-heeled pumps underscored the

collection’s ballet aspirations.

Dior

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Staged at the Hotel de Ville in Paris, models at Dries Van Noten paced beneath suspended chandeliers to parade a collection that was rich in texture and colour. Scarf-like patterns edged in azure and cobalt blue converged across adroitly-tailored jackets and billows of silk. Elsewhere, striking, panelled coats in shades of olive took on a more r ig id appearance, whi le As ian motifs filtered through with stylized Japanese pr ints and stunning phoenix images wrought f rom shimmering gold thread.

Dries Van Noten

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Within the confines of the Couvent

des Cordeliers, Giambattista Valli

paraded elegant sophist ication

with punch. Fabulous woven coats

were worn over cropped, black

trousers, sleek dresses radiated in

alizarin crimson and chunky knits

counter-balanced skirts spliced

with translucent panels. Solid belts

drew attention to waists, while funky

platform shoes instilled the collection

with an uber cool edge.

Giambattista Valli

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fashion from the runway

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wfm 41 paris/new york aw2012 lite

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