what are the cultural implications of normcore?
DESCRIPTION
Popular Culture Final ProjectTRANSCRIPT
What are the Cultural Implications of NormCore?
Stephanie DavidowTeaching of English; John
BrowneMasters Degree, M.A.
620 E 20th Street, Apt 5G, New York, NY 10009
[email protected] Credits
July 28, 2014
Abstract
The articles on Fashion from last week brought to mind my
experiences as a fashion intern for the high end designer Natori. One of my
tasks was to compile buyer binders, an example of which you will
encounter as you read on. These binders contained examples of press
coverage or celebrities wearing the clothes, possible cultural promoters,
spreadsheets comparing sales data, etc. While most trends operate on the
ideal of distinguishing itself from past fads, the NormCore movement of the
past couple years is an ironic rejection of uniqueness and physical
differentiation. Due to its popularity within the intellectual set, it has
maximized its ability to act as a statement illustrating what Jagose calls
“meanings and values that transfer to the consumer within a fashion
system.”
“Like other commodities, clothes offer a dynamic field
for studying the interface between culturally available commodity forms and the construction of a sense of self. This is because clothes are not simply material objects of practical use, but also acquire meanings and values that transfer to the consumer within a fashion system.” (Jagose 140)
In collusion with its ideology of defiance, NormCore is composed of thrifting
and vintage renewal where used clothes, old stock, and recycled fabric are
used to create one of a kind albeit externally indistinguishable pieces. This
is especially interesting given the new meaning given to a field
characterized by waste, when according to Veblen, “Fashion's seasonal
transformations require a level of consumption that is, in functional terms,
extremely wasteful.” (Veblen 104-5).
In addition, this universally accessible and androgynous trend poses
another threat the the spectrum and social significance of fashion. It is true
that the slip on sneakers and low hanging backpacks being released by
brands such as Chanel and YSL represent the trickle up effect in which
pricey items emulate urban culture. However, the disappearance of
recognizable branding in favor of monochrome prints in basic unisex cuts
negates fashion as a visible class signifier through trickle up and trickle
down. Cultural maximizers, such as the most followed fashion bloggers, are
now combining outfits such as 90’s Gap cut offs with emblem-free
Ferragamo flats. My examination of the NormCore movement includes
coverage from top fashion publications as well as user-controlled mediums
such as twitter and instagram. It was especially interesting that the
NormCore consumer does not identify him or herself as such.
Press Coverage
The NormCore Consumer
Tags/Keywords: Awkward, Thrift, Androgynous, so-uncool-it’s-cool, 90’s logomania, Detached, Ironic, Intellectual
The History of NormCore
90’s casual attire as illustrated by the poster people for the mid-20’s urban everyman (and everywoman)
Seinfeld: the typical NormCore consumer follows the dress code of this iconic hit and often quotes it ironically despite
being born after it was off the air
Diane Von Furstenberg: former Belgian princes and top American designer who pioneered one of NormCore’s
early incarnations, minimalism, with the invention of the
wrap dress
The Faces of Modern NormCore
Anna Dello Russo: Editor at Large, Vogue Japan
Leandra Medine: Author/Blogger “The Man Repeller”
Eva Chen: Editor in Chief at Lucky Magazine
2013-2014 Top Sellers
Product
Turnover
Expenditur
esBuyer
sPrice Point
Target Marke
t
90’s Renewal mid-rise
Mom Jean:98%
cotton, 2% lycra
85%, sales in
the 3K to high
volume departmen
t stores
American made, no need to
ship, deadstock recycled cloth is used
sold at both brick
and mortar
and high end
department stores
varies depending on store
mid-20’s, urban chic,
rejects social
conformity but
financially dependent
on stepford-
esque family
Vintage Chanel Fanny Pack: 100%
lambskin leather
100% rare item
backordered
none: rare vintage
item (old stock)
Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf
Goodman, designer boutique locations
3,000: gross of over 2K
female teens and
young adults with penchant
for festivals
Birkenstocks with
attacked socks:rubber,
synthetic cotton blend
50%
low manufacturing cost
out of Indonesia, shipping
costs
highest turnover online
20$ for 2 pairs
Unisex, all age
ranges
Baseball cap of retired sports
team: 80% wool, 10% spandex, 10% tears
of child laborers
40%, expected to pick up
after celebrity
promotional pictures leaked on PerezHilto
n.com
shipping from
domestic locations
available in limited quantities by request
retails at 150$, gain
of 100$ over
original market price
marketed towards young trendy women
and older sports fans
Patagonia Fleece
Pullover: 50%
recycled polyester,
50% cotton blend
N/A
bulk purchase
of deadstock
from Patagonia warehous
es
Urban Outfitters,
Aritza
50$, close to original retail but
almost 5X our
purchase price
student scene:
customization of
college logos
Product
Turnover
Expenditur
esBuyer
sPrice Point
Target Marke
t
90’s Renewal mid-rise
Mom Jean:98%
cotton, 2% lycra
85%, sales in
the 3K to high
volume departmen
t stores
American made, no need to
ship, deadstock recycled cloth is used
sold at both brick
and mortar
and high end
department stores
varies depending on store
mid-20’s, urban chic,
rejects social
conformity but
financially dependent
on stepford-
esque family
Vintage Chanel Fanny Pack: 100%
lambskin leather
100% rare item
backordered
none: rare vintage
item (old stock)
Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf
Goodman, designer boutique locations
3,000: gross of over 2K
female teens and
young adults with penchant
for festivals
Birkenstocks with
attacked socks:rubber,
synthetic cotton blend
50%
low manufacturing cost
out of Indonesia, shipping
costs
highest turnover online
20$ for 2 pairs
Unisex, all age
ranges
Baseball cap of retired sports
team: 80% wool, 10% spandex, 10% tears
of child laborers
40%, expected to pick up
after celebrity
promotional pictures leaked on PerezHilto
n.com
shipping from
domestic locations
available in limited quantities by request
retails at 150$, gain
of 100$ over
original market price
marketed towards young trendy women
and older sports fans
Patagonia Fleece
Pullover: 50%
recycled polyester,
50% cotton blend
N/A
bulk purchase
of deadstock
from Patagonia warehous
es
Urban Outfitters,
Aritza
50$, close to original retail but
almost 5X our
purchase price
student scene:
customization of
college logos