why do we like what we like?

7
Review Why do we like what we like? ² David J Mela* Unilever Research Vlaardingen, NL-3130 AC Vlaardingen, The Netherlands Abstract: Why do we find certain foods more pleasurable than others? Interactions of food components with human biology and with social and eating contexts give rise, in some predictable ways, to relatively stable individual food likes. While sensory and consumer research have traditionally focused on measuring existing likes, a better understanding of their basic determinants can provide ideas and tools to better predict and influence how likes may develop and change. The liking for a particular food or set of foods largely reflects the prevailing cultural environment and personal experiences, which generate variation in the opportunities and likelihood for specific biological predispositions and learning processes to operate with regard to particular foods. These learning processes may be largely influenced by the intrinsic orosensory or nutritional attributes of foods themselves, as well as characteristics of the situational contexts in which foods are experienced. Liking is one factor contributing to the desire to eat a food, and ultimately to food selection. Current knowledge of these processes is briefly reviewed, with suggestions of potential implications for understanding and predicting food acceptance and choice. # 2000 Society of Chemical Industry Keywords: likes; food; preferences; acceptance; taste; flavour; sensory; boredom INTRODUCTION The anticipation and sensation of pleasure derived from food consumption are critical influences on food acceptance and selection. Domestically, agriculturally and industrially, high proportions of food develop- ment and production resources are invested in ensuring that products will be highly ‘liked’ when eaten. Although a variety of common procedures are used to identify how well different combinations of sensory qualities are liked, there can be considerable variance between and within individuals and groups, including dynamic changes as a result of experience with the food itself. An understanding of the mechan- isms by which likes are acquired may help in under- standing this variance, and may be applied to identify, predict and possibly influence potential changes in liking over time, to ensure that food products deliver long-term satisfaction to consumers. WHAT DO WE MEAN BY ‘LIKING’ AND ‘PREFERENCE’? ‘Liking’ is used here to refer to an immediate qualitative, affective (hedonic) evaluation of a food; the degree of experience of pleasure or displeasure. Liking is judged against an internal reference scale for intensity and (paraphrasing Feather 1 on ‘valence’) refers to the perceived attractiveness or aversiveness of specific objects and events within the immediate situation, linked to a specific context and a present timeframe. Affective responses are ‘…a feeling state that occurs in response to a specific stimulus…with a potential range of cognitive effort’. 2 The latter state- ment highlights the fact that affective responses are not necessarily constant for the same sensory stimulus, and often reflect the situation (context) in which the evaluation takes place, and other attitudes, beliefs and expectations (cognitions) of the assessor. In market research it is often a recollection of liking for a specific food or food type in general, rather than actual taste experience, that is evaluated, eg ‘How much do you like pepperoni pizza?’. Evaluations made during actual eating (while I taste the pizza) or as recalled (when I think about the pizza later) may or may not closely correspond. Although product devel- opment research tends to focus on actual eating, the recalled liking may be of interest, since purchase decisions are rarely made on the basis of immediate tasting. Although the terms ‘liking’ and ‘preference’ are often used interchangeably, it is useful to make a distinction. ‘Preference’ is better used to express choice: an indication that amongst two or more alternatives presented in a given time and context, (Received 6 March 2000; accepted 1 September 2000) * Correspondence to: David J Mela, Unilever Research Vlaardingen, NL-3130 Vlaardingen, The Netherlands ² Presented at the 25th Anniversary meeting of the Society for Chemical Industry Sensory and Consumer Science Group, ‘Consumer and sensory research: expanding the horizon’, London, 26 October 1999 # 2000 Society of Chemical Industry. J Sci Food Agric 0022–5142/2001/$30.00 10 Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture J Sci Food Agric 81:10–16 (online: 2000)

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Journal of the Science of Food and Agriculture J Sci Food Agric 81:10±16 (online: 2000)

ReviewWhy do we like what we like? †

David J Mela*Unilever Research Vlaardingen, NL-3130 AC Vlaardingen, The Netherlands

(Rec

* Co† Presens

# 2

Abstract: Why do we ®nd certain foods more pleasurable than others? Interactions of food components

with human biology and with social and eating contexts give rise, in some predictable ways, to

relatively stable individual food likes. While sensory and consumer research have traditionally focused

on measuring existing likes, a better understanding of their basic determinants can provide ideas and

tools to better predict and in¯uence how likes may develop and change. The liking for a particular food

or set of foods largely re¯ects the prevailing cultural environment and personal experiences, which

generate variation in the opportunities and likelihood for speci®c biological predispositions and

learning processes to operate with regard to particular foods. These learning processes may be largely

in¯uenced by the intrinsic orosensory or nutritional attributes of foods themselves, as well as

characteristics of the situational contexts in which foods are experienced. Liking is one factor

contributing to the desire to eat a food, and ultimately to food selection. Current knowledge of these

processes is brie¯y reviewed, with suggestions of potential implications for understanding and

predicting food acceptance and choice.

# 2000 Society of Chemical Industry

Keywords: likes; food; preferences; acceptance; taste; ¯avour; sensory; boredom

INTRODUCTIONThe anticipation and sensation of pleasure derived

from food consumption are critical in¯uences on food

acceptance and selection. Domestically, agriculturally

and industrially, high proportions of food develop-

ment and production resources are invested in

ensuring that products will be highly `liked' when

eaten. Although a variety of common procedures are

used to identify how well different combinations of

sensory qualities are liked, there can be considerable

variance between and within individuals and groups,

including dynamic changes as a result of experience

with the food itself. An understanding of the mechan-

isms by which likes are acquired may help in under-

standing this variance, and may be applied to identify,

predict and possibly in¯uence potential changes in

liking over time, to ensure that food products deliver

long-term satisfaction to consumers.

WHAT DO WE MEAN BY ‘LIKING’ AND‘PREFERENCE’?`Liking' is used here to refer to an immediate

qualitative, affective (hedonic) evaluation of a food;

the degree of experience of pleasure or displeasure.

Liking is judged against an internal reference scale for

intensity and (paraphrasing Feather1 on `valence')

eived 6 March 2000; accepted 1 September 2000)

rrespondence to: David J Mela, Unilever Research Vlaardingen, NL-3sented at the 25th Anniversary meeting of the Society for Chemicaory research: expanding the horizon’, London, 26 October 1999

000 Society of Chemical Industry. J Sci Food Agric 0022±5142/2

refers to the perceived attractiveness or aversiveness of

speci®c objects and events within the immediate

situation, linked to a speci®c context and a present

timeframe. Affective responses are `¼a feeling state

that occurs in response to a speci®c stimulus¼with a

potential range of cognitive effort'.2 The latter state-

ment highlights the fact that affective responses are not

necessarily constant for the same sensory stimulus,

and often re¯ect the situation (context) in which the

evaluation takes place, and other attitudes, beliefs and

expectations (cognitions) of the assessor.

In market research it is often a recollection of liking

for a speci®c food or food type in general, rather than

actual taste experience, that is evaluated, eg `How

much do you like pepperoni pizza?'. Evaluations made

during actual eating (while I taste the pizza) or as

recalled (when I think about the pizza later) may or

may not closely correspond. Although product devel-

opment research tends to focus on actual eating, the

recalled liking may be of interest, since purchase

decisions are rarely made on the basis of immediate

tasting.

Although the terms `liking' and `preference' are

often used interchangeably, it is useful to make a

distinction. `Preference' is better used to express

choice: an indication that amongst two or more

alternatives presented in a given time and context,

130 Vlaardingen, The Netherlandsl Industry Sensory and Consumer Science Group, ‘Consumer and

001/$30.00 10

Table 1. Unlearned affective responses to oronasal sensory stimuli

Gustatory (taste)

Taste quality `Innate' response Development

Sweet Like In utero

Food likes

certain options are more desirable than others. A

product may be preferred over another, even though

neither is liked. Or a product may actually not be liked

as much (ie does not taste as nice) as another, but

nevertheless preferred and purchased for other reasons

(eg health, price, packaging, etc).

Confusion arises because the term `preference' is

commonly used to indicate one or all of three differing

measures of food acceptance.

1. `Preference' is sometimes used to mean liking (for

sensory attributes): hedonic response, as in food

`preference' tests.

2. `Preference' is sometimes used to mean choice (in a

product test): selection of one item from amongst

alternatives, eg in a ranking or selection test, based

perhaps on many different criteria and product

attributes besides just tasting.

3. `Preference' is sometimes used to mean purchasedecisions: what consumers actually choose to buy; eg

`consumer preference' in marketing data.

As noted, `preference' is often (mis)used as a

synonym for `liking'. In such cases it seems better

simply to use the latter term. Liking of a product

contributes to the formation of expressed preferences

and purchase behaviours, but is only one of many

contributors. This ambiguity causes miscommunica-

tion and perpetuates misunderstandings. For example,

there is often surprise and disappointment when the

results of `preference' tests (liking tests) fail to predict

actual consumer `preference' (purchase decisions); the

latter clearly has many more determinants than liking

alone. As a facile illustration, the sensory analyst may

®nd that most people `prefer' lobster to canned tuna

(ie liking, measured by taste tests), but the market

researcher knows that the same people clearly `prefer'

canned tuna to lobster (ie purchase decisions,

measured by frequency and volume bought).

In addition, the notion of `desire' becomes useful in

discussing variations in the feelings of wanting, the

anticipation that eating a particular food would be

pleasurable. For example, although an individual's

general liking (taste test) for chocolate may be quite

high and stable, the actual desire to eat it can still vary

considerably across time and situations. Similarly,

most wine a®cionados might express rather low desire

for their favourite bottle if they were woken from a

deep sleep and offered it for breakfast. This distinction

between liking and desire, and its implications, are

explored further below.

Salty Like 4±6 months postnatal

Sour Dislike (?) In utero

Bitter Dislike In utero� later maturation

`Umami' Context-dependent? Uncertain

Olfactory (smell)

No unlearned affective odour responses established

Chemesthetic (mechanical, thermal, nociceptive)

Pain avoidance inborn; no other unlearned affective responses

(eg for textures) established

‘INNATE’ ASPECTS AND EARLY ACQUISITION OFLIKESHumans have a relatively narrow range of unlearned

likes (biologically predestined and clearly independent

of any prior exposure). Although there are some

known genetic sources of variance, cultural similarities

in liking for food sensory qualities largely re¯ect shared

experiences rather than any unique shared biological

J Sci Food Agric 81:10±16 (online: 2000)

characteristics. Data on presumed inborn (ie present

at birth) responses to basic chemosensory stimuli

(primarily simple taste and odour compounds) come

from studies on full- and pre-term infants, using a wide

variety of methods to explore both discrimination and

(presumed) liking. The relevant research methods and

the lines of support are thoroughly discussed in reviews

by Beauchamp and colleagues.3,4

TasteIt appears that humans are born with positive hedonic

responses to at least one taste quality, sweetness, and

probably a dislike for sour and (most) bitter taste

stimuli. (These taste qualities re¯ect descriptors

commonly applied by adults to the same stimuli.)

Ability to sense (and probably an inborn liking for)

salty stimuli develops a few months after birth, and

there may also be some postnatal maturation of bitter

taste perception. The situation is uncertain with

`umami' (the savoury taste quality of monosodium

glutamate (MSG) and ribonucleotides, often con-

sidered a ®fth `basic' taste quality). Among infants,

MSG alone in water appears to be disliked relative to

plain water, but more complex mixtures containing

MSG may be neutral or perhaps liked relative to the

same mixture without MSG.5 These `innate' taste

responses are characterised in Table 1. For several

reasons, it is logical to presume that the normal

neonatal hedonic responses to these basic qualities are

truly unlearned, but that does not exclude these

unlearned responses from modi®cation by later devel-

opmental changes, experience and learning.

There are further developmental changes in taste

responses during childhood and adolescence which in

part re¯ect inborn biological predispositions. To some

extent, though, these may be secondary to differences

in social and cognitive maturity, in addition to any

differences in the peripheral sensory receptors or

central affective signals. The vast bulk of relevant

research has focused on sweet and salty tastes, where

cross-sectional and longitudinal studies con®rm the

anecdotal observation that young children often prefer

a higher sweetener level than adults,6 and this is also

11

Figure 1. A simple general scheme for the acquisition of food likes.

DJ Mela

true for salt in many contexts.7 Although this may be

taken to indicate a liking for greater sweetness by

children, it is quite plausible that this actually re¯ects

lower perceived intensity of sweeteners.8 That is,

compared to adults, children may simply require

higher levels of sweeteners within foods to achieve

the same perception of sweetness intensity.

SmellIn contrast to taste, there is no compelling evidence for

any inborn, unlearned volatile ¯avour (dis)likes in

humans.4,9 However, there has also been far less

research conducted with odours. This is in part due to

problems of stimulus control, and constraints on the

types of materials to which infants may be exposed, as

well as the lack of commonly accepted, discrete

categories of stimuli from which representative com-

pounds might be easily selected for testing. There are

considerable dif®culties in interpreting many of the

relevant research results.9

Although liking of food-related and other aromas

appears to show, with some exceptions, broad general

similarities across different human populations,10,11

this may better re¯ect shared experiences with

common environmental odours than a speci®c con-

genital predisposition. Without prior experience,

newborns do not exhibit clear hedonic responses to

representative odours deemed highly pleasant or

unpleasant by most adults.9 However, the capacity to

acquire sensory hedonic responses is apparent from

very early in life, and newborn humans and animals

can recognise and respond preferentially to speci®c

maternal and environmental odours within hours of

birth.12±14 These responses can be in¯uenced by

prenatal (in utero) and early postnatal (breast-feeding)

experience, including secondary exposure to ¯avours

in the maternal diet. Within a few days, breast-fed and

bottle-fed infants showed differential degrees of

response to the odours of their respective food

sources.13,14 These data are generally consistent with

the view that even `universal' environmental and food

odour (dis)likes are not inborn but are acquired. The

long-term implications of these early experiences, and

potential for in¯uencing later food likes, are potentially

important but not established.

The extent to which the apparent liking for fats or

other texture-related components in foods is inborn or

acquired is not resolved. Several studies suggest that

rats may express an apparent unlearned liking for fat-

associated, `greasy' textures at birth or soon there-

after.15 However, other data show that these hedonic

responses can be acquired, and it is also conceivable

that apparently `innate' responses could re¯ect acqui-

sition occurring in utero or, perhaps more importantly,

during suckling. The relevant human studies are

reviewed by Catt,16 whose own data indicate that

6-week-old bottle-fed infants do not discriminate or

show any clear preferential responses in relation to fat

content of milk formulaes. An acquired liking for fat-

related textures or ¯avours appears to be best

12

explained by the post-ingestive effects of fats (eg

energy density), or perhaps through early associations

with milk, or with lubrication, ease of swallowing, or

other positive hedonic experiences (see below).

MERE EXPOSURE OR MORE EXPOSURE?The evidence reviewed above supports the view that

liking for particular combinations of sensory qualities

is largely acquired through experience. Even the few

inborn responses are subject to change through

experience, via processes depicted in Fig 1 (examples

being development of liking for black coffee or

alcoholic beverages). In this scheme the socioeco-

nomic and cultural environment is viewed as having a

primary role in setting up the opportunities and

contexts for particular sensory experiences, ie this

determines what foods will be experienced and the

frequency and conditions in which this occurs.17 It is

the nature of these experiences, and of their associa-

tion with particular sensory attributes, which is seen as

being a central underlying driver of changes in liking.

This can potentially account for both individual

differences and the similarities within cultures. The

genetic predisposition includes inborn likes or dislikes,

but also possible variation in the biological propensity

for acquiring and expressing certain new, learned

associations.

Mere exposure?Do food likes develop and change through simple,

`mere' exposure to them? `Mere exposure' (ME) is

commonly invoked as a post hoc explanation for

observed food likes, in accord with the common

experience that `I got used to it'. As suggested in Fig

1, this view implies a direct bridge between experience

and liking, without clear involvement of any particular

reinforcing elements. There is in fact a considerable

body of evidence for a de®ned `mere exposure'

phenomenon from non-food areas, especially words

and pictures.18,19 However, most research showing

ME effects has been carried out under conditions

J Sci Food Agric 81:10±16 (online: 2000)

Food likes

which exclude other types of reinforcement, and,

indeed, the ME effect may be strongest when initial

experience is indirect and ephemeral and not even

recalled.19,20 In contrast, exposure to food items in

normal eating is rarely `mere'. Instead, it is usually

associated with thoughts, social situations, post-

ingestive effects and other factors which may easily

underlie or outweigh any so-called `mere exposure'

effects. Eating therefore provides clear opportunities

for other processes (such as associative learning,

discussed below) to occur. It may therefore be argued

that `mere exposure' is generally being used as a

convenient description, rather than a useful explana-

tion of the basis for observed changes in food liking,

when better explanatory alternatives exist.

Associative conditioning?Extensive evidence from experiments with animals

and growing evidence from human studies support the

view that liking for combinations of sensory attributes

in foods is largely acquired as a result of repeated

pairing with other stimuli or events via associative

conditioning.20±28

The liking for speci®c foods may, for example, be

linked to biological `cost' or bene®t derived from their

consumption, re¯ecting post-ingestive effects of foods.

There is strong evidence for this process in the

formation of intense dislikes from studies of learned

food aversions. In this case the association of a food

with acute illness (especially gastrointestinal upset)

can trigger a dramatic change in liking for previously

neutral or even well-liked foods.26,29 This may explain

many common, apparently idiosyncratic individual

dislikes for the ¯avour (usually) of speci®c foods.

Positive, `rewarding' psychobiological effects may

contribute to the formation of likes. The development

or maintenance of liking as a result of pharmacological

effects of caffeinated or alcoholic beverages may be

examples for humans (though it should be noted that

caffeine may ultimately function via alleviation of

withdrawal, rather than necessarily a positive effect perse).30 The metabolic effects of energy or speci®c

nutrients may also serve to reinforce the acquisition

of likes. Studies with young children, for example,

have demonstrated the development of relative pre-

ferences for speci®c ¯avours paired with versions of

foods higher in energy content, versus ¯avours paired

with lower-energy versions.31±33 However, differences

in energy content may not be so important in the

development and maintenance of food likes amongst

adults under normal eating conditions (Stubenitskyk etal, unpublished). This mechanism may be more robust

in children because of their limited prior experience

with ¯avours or their greater sensitivity to differences

in the physiological effects of food energy. Food

composition, beyond direct effects of pharmacologi-

cally active ingredients, may also produce differential

psychological (eg mood and performance) effects

which could feed back positively into food likes. These

J Sci Food Agric 81:10±16 (online: 2000)

are areas which are currently of academic and

industrial interest.

In addition to effects related to the composition of

the food itself, changes in liking for foods may also be

acquired as a result of associations with other aspects

of the eating experience and context (so-called

`evaluative conditioning').34 Situational cues may also

prompt hunger in general or the desire to consume a

particular food. Recent work in this area in particular

suggests new avenues for understanding and predict-

ing the acquisition of likes.

Foods are constantly experienced in association

with other stimuli that are (already) more or less liked,

eg with events, social or eating situations and other

foods or ¯avours. It seems plausible that the pairing of

foods with such stimuli couldÐindependently of the

composition or the post-ingestive consequences of the

food item itselfÐgenerate directional changes in liking

for the food itself via evaluative conditioning.24,27,28,34

Within marketing research, similar types of associa-

tions are cited as justi®cation for linking products with

popular entertainment or sports ®gures and attractive

people, music or illustrations.35,36 There have been a

number of relevant studies which have speci®cally

used these procedures to in¯uence hedonic judge-

ments of odours and food-related stimuli.24,27,28,37

Within a given food, `¯avour±¯avour' conditioning

(pairing of an initially neutral food or ¯avour with

other, already liked or disliked ¯avours) may foster

conditioned shifts in liking for the previously neutral

item.24,27

The concept of evaluative conditioning is attractive

because it presents a `natural' mechanism for learning

about food contexts and combinations. There are

probably many opportunities for relevant associations

to occur in common for individuals within cultures,

but also differences for families and individuals, so this

®ts well with the observed characteristics of variation

in food likes across and within populations. However,

although description of evaluative conditioning makes

intuitive and theoretical sense, the actual empirical

support at this time is rather limited and inconsis-

tent.38

LIKING, DESIRE AND BOREDOMIn addition to potential positive effects of exposure, it

is widely recognised that very high frequencies of

experience may reduce food acceptance, a phenom-

enon commonly characterised as `boredom'. When

applied to speci®c products, a central question is

whether this re¯ects characteristics of the food or the

concept, ie whether the primary determinants of

`boredom' are essentially physiological or cognitive.

In other words, is there a real change in the actually

experienced affective response to the food, or does the

idea of eating the food become less attractive?

The term `boredom' is equally applied to events and

phenomena occurring over short (eg within one or

several meals) and long (eg over several weeks or

13

Figure 2. Schematic diagram of factors influencing ‘desire’ to eat aparticular food.

DJ Mela

months) timescales; however, these do not necessarily

represent the same phenomena or share similar causes.

To date, most of the relevant academic research with

foods has focused on very short timescales where

immediate physiological effects may predominate,

whereas cognitive and emotional processes may be

more relevant over longer periods of time.

Short-term effects on food acceptanceThe most prominent stream of research addressing

short-term effects of foods on food acceptance has

been oriented towards the phenomenon of `sensory-

speci®c satiety' (SSS). SSS is often used to describe a

decrease in acceptance ratings and choice of a speci®c

food or sensory quality as a result of immediate prior

exposure or consumption.39±42 In typical SSS experi-

ments, subjects are exposed to a speci®c food, perhaps

several times in a short period, and then make some

sort of acceptability judgement (eg liking, choice,

desire to eat) for that item versus others. Relative to

pre-test ratings, subjects usually indicate reduced

acceptance for foods just experienced and foods with

sensory qualities (colour, shape/appearance, texture,

¯avour) similar to them, compared to other (less

similar) alternatives.42,43

Relatively reduced ratings of `pleasantness' of foods

just eaten seem congruent with everyday experience:

consumption of a food often blunts desire for that

same item, while desire to eat other, different foods is

retained. However, the cause, interpretation and

relevance of the observation are open to debate. It is

largely presumed within the SSS literature that this

re¯ects a primary shift in affect (the item actually does

not taste as nice anymore), and this is indeed plausible.

However, other researchers have argued that con-

sumption of a food under typical SSS conditions

primarily in¯uences wanting or desire to eat the food,

as distinct from a change in the actual (sensory)

pleasantness derived from eating it.44,45 These points

may re¯ect a more general problem in the interpreta-

tion of common hedonic rating scales, namely the

failure (by subjects and investigators) to distinguish

amongst motivational or other attitudinal judgements

and judgements of affect (liking) alone. That is, tests

often fail to allow differentiation amongst liking

(tasteÐactual or anticipated), preference (eg based

on health or ethical considerations) and desire (want-

ing to eat the item now, for any number of reasons).

In general, the SSS literature leans heavily towards

assigning neural and biological explanations for the

observations, consistent with the emphasis on de-

creased effect. However, even very strong proponents

of this view of SSS leave open the possibility of

cognitive involvement.40,41 This is potentially an

important issue, particularly when the concept is

extended to longer timeframes. If `boredom' with a

food re¯ects relative changes in sensitisation or

habituation to some set of its attributes, then a greater

diversity (`complexity'?) or a differing set of attributes

within the same product should largely slow or prevent

14

this process. On the other hand, repeated consump-

tion of a single item (or quite similar alternatives) does

not ®t within normal rules of cuisine and is therefore

culturally inappropriate. Thus reduced ratings may

re¯ect feelings about the overall eating situation and

motivation rather than (or in addition to) the food

sensory quality.

If short-term and long-term food `boredom'

phenomena are fundamentally different, then it is

not surprising that short-term tests fail to capture or

predict longer-term events.46

Food desire, ‘boredom’ and monotonyIn considering the problem of `boredom' in a more

realistic sense (eg repeat product use over a period of

weeks or months), it is necessary to look more closely

at the distinction between liking and `desire to eat' and

consider which of these is captured in the concept of

food `boredom'. Liking is clearly one contributor to

`desire', which presumably carries a component of

anticipated pleasure. However, liking is clearly not

enough to predict desire. We may like ®sh soup or a

favourite wine but feel no desire to consume these at

breakfast. Thus desire can also be strongly in¯uenced

by feelings of appropriateness;47 that is, whether a food

matches the situation and context. The matching of

foods and use-contexts is largely determined by

cultural and social conventions. Furthermore, there

are psychophysiological conditions that prompt desire

irrespective of other factors. One example is thirst, but

this may also include more subtle effects such as a

feeling of desire for coffee or chocolate prompted by

mood state or hunger.25,30 In this case, consumption

of particular foods may have the effect of altering a

`need state', and this may also act as a reinforcer for the

development of likes. A simple representation of these

relationships is depicted in Fig 2.

`Boring' may be used by consumers as a description

of the common, routine, unexciting nature of certain

foods, but also to characterise consumption at an

undesirably or inappropriately high frequency. One

possibility is that `boredom' in the latter sense re¯ects

consumption at a level inconsistent with accepted

norms; that is, once an `appropriate' and `normal'

pattern and frequency of consumption are established,

J Sci Food Agric 81:10±16 (online: 2000)

Food likes

further increases in eating frequency are resisted and

may be incorporated into expressions of `boredom'.

This sees perceptions of `boring' as largely cognitive in

origin, attributed to foods in relation to their role in

cuisine.

Data of Stubenitsky et al48 provide some support for

this view. In this research, consumers were given

chocolate bars (three bars per week) and sausages

(once per week) for consumption at home over a 10

week period. There were no changes in hedonic ratings

for either product over the period of required

consumption; however, throughout this same period,

`boring' ratings increased at a relatively consistent rate.

The slope of this increase appears lower for the

chocolate than sausages, despite the fact that the

chocolate was eaten at a much higher (but more

culturally typical) frequency. The data clearly show a

dichotomy between liking (unchanged) and boredom

(rising), and it seems reasonable to expect that the

latter would be a better predictor of changes in repeat

purchase intent. Data of Schutz and Pilgrim49 may

also be viewed as supporting a culinary or cultural

assignment of `boredom'. They found that foods

which are known by custom to be appropriate to eat

every day (cereals, bread, etc) were most resistant to

boredom-associated decreases in rated acceptability.

Porcherot and Issanchou50 reported that consumption

of speci®c ¯avours of crackers over 3 months at home

generated no change in `liking' ratings for four of ®ve

varieties. The interesting exception, where liking

increased, was the one ¯avour which initially scored

lowest for liking, appropriateness and familiarity.

Although several major theories relating to repeat

exposure, variety-seeking and the development of

boredom focus on stimulus `complexity',50±52 the

`complexity' measures in this study were unrelated to

changes in liking over time. However, it may be that

novelty, rather than complexity, is a more central

issue.53

Perhaps because of this blurring of liking with desire

to eat, consumers themselves may not be particularly

good at judging in advance the likely extent of changes

in liking with repeated experience. In the work of

Kahneman and Snell,54 where subjects were told they

would (and did) eat the same ¯avour of ice cream each

day for 8 days, subjects tended to predict greater

declines in liking than they actually experienced. This

is again consistent with the view that it is the idea of

eating a food which is primarily affected by repetition,

rather than an actual appreciation of its sensory

characteristics.

The causes of perceived food `boredom', and its

relationships with repeat product purchase behaviour,

clearly warrant further study.

CONCLUSIONS: WHY DO WE LIKE WHAT WE LIKE?The liking for a particular food or set of foods largely

re¯ects the prevailing cultural environment and

personal experiences, which generate variation in the

J Sci Food Agric 81:10±16 (online: 2000)

opportunities and likelihood for speci®c biological pre-

dispositions and learning processes to operate with

regard to particular foods. Humans have a limited set

of inborn taste likes and dislikes, and even these are

modi®ed through experience. The liking for speci®c

sensory qualities in foods is largely acquired through

their association with a range of possible reinforcers,

which include intrinsic components of a food as well as

aspects of the context in which it is eaten. Knowledge

of these and the relevant underlying mechanisms,

largely derived from the behavioural science literature,

can potentially be used to evaluate, predict and alter

product acceptance.

Liking is, however, only one contributor to the

desire to eat a speci®c food, and to its eventual

selection from many possible alternatives. Desire to eat

an item may also re¯ect cognitive factors, such as

appropriateness of the food for a situation, and `need'

state, such as physiological conditions (eg thirst). Both

commercial and academic food acceptance research

could be advanced by greater clarify of thought in

differentiating amongst the different determinants of

food choice. Furthermore, there is clearly a require-

ment for food acceptance research to expand beyond

its emphasis on short-term phenomena, which may

not capture events occurring with repeat exposure over

longer timeframes, and under more realistic eating

conditions.

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