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sTHE INDEPENDENT THURSDAY 13 JULY 2006

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Two violent inci-dents broughtme to where I amtoday. The firstwas the unex-pected death ofmy uncle, the day

after I arrived in Uganda to seehim; the second, the attemptedmurder of my Ugandan farmmanager, three years later. Thefirst I came to see as serendipi-ty, the second as rocket fuel.

Serendipity landed me, aged30, on unruly Ndali farm, with itstourist lodge, in Western Ugan-da while its manager and vision-ary – my uncle, Mark Price – wasbeing buried in Yorkshire. It wasoriginally an emergency mea-sure. I was expecting to be backwithin a couple of months mak-ing furniture near Chipping Nor-ton – doughnuts, strong coffee,ear-defenders and biscuit joint-er (my favourite “bodge-it” toolfor avoiding a mortice and tenon)by day, a pint of Hook Norton andsteak and kidney pie by night. In-stead, these faded into the dis-tance along with eight nephewsand nieces, a five-year-long re-lationship, a red Ford Escort (aninheritance from my grand-mother and which passed awayduring my first year away dur-ing a joyride around an Oxford-shire industrial estate), and heapsof books on Tibetan Buddhism.

Seven years on, I am still inUganda, smitten with a rare gift:the liberating feeling from top totoe that I am in the right place,at the right time, doing the rightthing, no matter what the com-plications. Curiously, I am in bet-ter contact now with my friendsin England than I ever was whenI was there. I think its is becauseI feel good in my skin, like I havecome up from under water.

I inherited a mixed Africanfarm of bananas, coffee, cattle,alcohol distillation, and 29 fam-ilies in ramshackle houses thatshouldn’t have been there – andMr B, the then-farm-manager. Itwas making a roaring loss, notoverly helped by Mr B, a de-frocked priest, who was gettingfatter and richer by the minutein inverse proportion to the farm’sperformance as he wined anddined all the local administra-tion. With the threat of reprisalsheavy in the air, it took me threemonths of heated negotiationsto see off Mr B with a goldenhandshake and a wildparty. Nowwe’re best of friends.

This was in a period when theAllied Democratic Front hadstrongholds in the Mountains ofthe Moon (the Rwenzoris) whichoverlook Ndali, and the groupsporadically raided local villages,murdering and plundering. Pres-ident Museveni personally ar-ranged for our lodge to be pro-tected by the army. For a yearwe had 12 soldiers stationed onon the farm in trenches they dugthemselves, and from where theyused to busy themselves feedingour small troop of baboons, smok-ing marijuana, drinking Ndali-distilled banana gin and enter-taining the village girls.

Then there was an attack witha panga (machete) on my newfarm manager, Monday, when hedisturbed a thief in his house. Itleft a chunk out the back of hishead like a quarter-slice of apple.We learnt to dress the woundevery other day with wild honeyand gauze. The effect was phe-nomenal: it protected the woundfrom bacteria at the same timeas it promoted growth of newflesh over the bone.

But the shock of the attack madeits mark on an HIV-positive pa-tient and I nursed a bed-riddenfriend for a year. He failed to pullthrough. But being beside Mon-day concentrated in me a posi-tive aggression towards thefarm’s future: nothing shouts“transitory” so clearly as death.Monday bestowed a type of rock-et-up-my-arse blessing when heleft me and Ndali behind.

My current farm manager isKato, a small bundle of immenseenergy without whom I couldachieve nothing and who con-stantly raises my morale andlightens my mood with funny sto-ries. Although not a mechaniche’s more inventive than me attying things on with bits of string

and plastic bags and so doublesup as an excellent Ugandan driv-er of Be Nicer, our Land Rover.

Kato and Monday taught methat getting Ndali “right” was aquestion of good people-man-agement and experiment. We seteveryone on a bonus system. Hav-ing no mechanisation, everythingwas and still is done by hand sowe slashed elephant grass andburned, then dug, re-dug, andplanted. Wetried, among others,rice, soya, maize, chillis, onions,and pyrethrum. Then I hit uponvanilla. It became my eating,walking, sleeping, talking, love-affair nightmare. Vanilla is in mybedroom, in the loo, on the win-dow-shelf, under the sink, in my

pockets, stuffed in old socks,wrapped in cooking foil, sweat-ing in containers, soaking in al-cohol, strewn on the floor likeconfetti, and frazzling on thedashboard of Be Nicer. Myfriends say I stink of vanilla.

I’d been in need of a high-value,low-volume crop and one thatcould work financially on a smallscale, that would be in harmonywith the direction I wanted totake the farm in terms of ethos,challenge, scope for creativity. Ididn’t want to change the exist-ing character of Ndali – wild andhilly with lots of regenerating for-est – so swathes of maize or acresof coffee were never

Vanillaguerrilla

When Lulu Sturdy inherited her uncle’s run-down Ugandanestate, she found herself alone on a failing farm in a war zone.Seven years on, she has built it into a Fairtrade phenomenon

17THE INDEPENDENT THURSDAY 13 JULY 2006••••••

10.00 House. Hugh Laurieattempts to treat aschizophrenic woman who is admitted with apulmonary embolism, butsoon realises that theremust be more to her casewhen she starts bleedingexcessively (R) (T) (3039435).

11.00 The Baby MindReader. Derek Ogilvietreats troubled two-year-oldJacob, and finds the childhas visions of a prison-likeenvironment. And he’sabout the right age to bewatching Big Brother, too(R) (T) (4666665).

10.00 Big Brother.Highlights from the past 24hours (T) (5577874).

11.05 Sugar Rush. Saintgoes away to a sex festival,leaving Kim wonderingwhat she will be getting upto. Er... (T) (644329).

11.35 Big Brother’s BigMouth. Cheap filler fromthe addled minds of BigBrother fans (520955).

10.00 Love Island. PatrickKielty and Fearne Cottonreport from the amorousatoll (T) (37597).

10.30 ITV News;Weather (T) (19145).

11.00 Surveillance City.Love Island for voyeurs?No, it’s a report from anestate where residentshave set up their ownCCTV network (1145).

11.30 Paparazzi Secrets.That they wouldn’t selltheir grannies for a snapof Posh? (T) (25351).

12.00 The Mint (T)(15877085).4.10 Britain’s Best Back Gardens (R) (T)(39344694). 4.35 Moving Day(R) (T) (63943269). 5.00 ITVNightscreen (86004). 5.30 ITV News (T) (96356).To 6am.

12.05 Boys Will Be Girls (T)(8833288). 12.40 Big BrotherLive (63895801). 3.40 33FILM An Everlasting Piece(Barry Levinson 2000 US) SEE PICK OF THE DAY (T)(363269). 5.20 Countdown (R)(T) (3617646). To 6.05am.

12.00 Nascar (1541424). 12.50 IndyCar Racing(6910269). 1.40 Rolex GrandAmerican (7255578). 2.30 V8Supercars (6575849). 3.20 Winter X Games 2006(7540172). 4.20 Major LeagueSoccer (7697004). To 6am.

10.00 33Mastermind.SEE PICK OF THE DAY (T)(33771).

10.30 Newsnight (T)(636690).

11.20 33Africa Live.SEE PICK OF THE DAY (T)(321416).

10PM 11PM LATE

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11.30 This Week (followedby Weatherview) (T)(266459).

12.20 Sign Zone: Top Gear (R)(1331424). 1.20 The CuriousHouse Guest (R) (T)(2238733). 1.50 Eating With(R) (T) (9753356). 2.20 Starsin Fast Cars (R) (T)(6847733). 2.50 Britain’sStreets of Debt (R) (T)(9616288). 3.35 Return toTuscany (R) (T) (88479004).4.05 Return to Tuscany (R) (T)(71543269). 4.35 BBC News24 (T) (6842004). To 6am.

12.20 BBC News 24 (T)(486801). 2.00 BBC LearningZone: Mediterranean Tales (R)(T) (4166838). To 6am.

An Everlasting Piece3.40AM CHANNEL 4Barry Levinson trades Baltimore forBelfast in his characterful comedy, set inthe Troubles of the 1980s. Billy Connolly(above) plays a deranged wig-maker.

Mastermind10PM BBC2This is surely the only TV showwhere Jorge Luis Borges rubs shoul-ders with the history of CharltonAthletic. Firearms from the 12th tothe 18th century and Arabic danceare the other specialist subjects.

Swimming Pool10PM FILMFOURBooked a French villa this summer?François Ozon’s elegant mystery willget you in the mood, as CharlotteRampling’s blocked author (above)sheds her British reserve.

Africa Live11.20PM BBC2Andy Kershaw was in Dakar, Sene-gal, to witness 150 of Africa’s topmusicians performing to promotethe Roll Back Malaria campaign.

Truly Madly Deeply9PM CHANNEL 4A lovely documentary about clientsof Stars in the Skies, a north Londondating agency for people withlearning disabilities.

Sport Relief PresentsLittle Britain’s Big Swim8PM BBC1David Walliams (right) swims theChannel for charity. This film followsthe preparations for the Little Britainstar’s impressive and (we nowknow) successful marathon paddle.

Horizon: Nuclear Nightmares9PM BBC2You’d think that the Government itselfhad commissioned this documentary,which presents evidence that radiationmay not be as bad for us as we feared.

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THE INDEPENDENT THURSDAY 13 JULY 2006••••••

6.00 Breakfast (T) (17122961). 9.15 Behind Bars(T) (2004232). 10.00 Homes under the Hammer(R) (T) (33481).11.00 To Buy or Not to Buy (R) (T)(3808752). 11.45 Car Booty (R) (T) (725226).12.15 Cash in the Attic (R) (T) (4805110). 1.00 BBCNews; Weather (T) (20961). 1.30 Regional News;Weather (T) (96985394). 1.40 Neighbours (T)(43128936). 2.05 The Afternoon Play (R) (T)(6006329). 3.05 Animal Park (T) (8573706).3.20 BBC News; Regional News; Weather (T)(7878752). 3.25 CBBC: ChuckleVision (7806597).3.40 Maya & Miguel (T) (1418706). 4.05 BamzookiBolt Togethers (R) (T) (9094023). 4.30 Sport Relief:Get Sub’d (T) (394). 5.00 Lizzie McGuire (T)(2020313). 5.25 Newsround (T) (7119435).5.35 Neighbours (R) (T) (919400).

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6.00 GMTV (T) (1800435). 9.25 The Jeremy KyleShow (T) (1377145). 10.30 This Morning (T)(45348). 12.30 ITV News (T) (97787). 1.30 LookingGood Feeling Great (T) (42961). 2.00 Our New Life inEverwood (T) (16226). 2.59 Granada Weather(5911787). 3.00 CITV: Pocoyo (7883684).3.05 Thomas & Friends (T) (7988145). 3.15 Potatoesand Dragons (T) (7984329). 3.25 Shuriken School(R) (T) (4496348). 4.00 The Darling Buds of May(R) (T) (5936). 5.00 The Price Is Right (T) (8752).

6.05 Children: Inuk (R) (T) (8947706). 6.20 TheHoobs (R) (T) (2243329). 6.45 The Hoobs (R) (T)(5915619). 7.10 Mornings: B4 (7508313). 7.40 BigBrother’s Little Brother (T) (2663226). 8.10 BigBrother (R) (T) (4232067). 8.55 Everybody LovesRaymond (R) (T) (4630918). 9.20 Frasier (R) (T)(9716058). 9.50 Will & Grace (R) (T) (1467923).10.15 ER (R) (T) (5993503). 11.10 Without a Trace(R) (T) (3811226). 12.00 News at Noon (T) (27110).12.30 Ed (R) (T) (7680348). 1.20 Channel 4 Racingfrom Newmarket. Featuring the 1.30, 2.35 and 3.10pmraces (T) (55808416). 3.30 Countdown (T)(4184435). 4.15 Deal or No Deal (T) (7159077).5.00 Richard & Judy (T) (6394).

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7.00 Big Cat Week.The baby cheetah Toto andhis mother find themselvesin trouble when a tropicalstorm hits the Mara (4313).

7.30 EastEnders. Darren,Mickey and Dawn decideKeith has to be put to workon the stall (T) (333).

7.00 33Evacuees.SEE PICK OF THE DAY (T)(5077).

7.00 Emmerdale. TheYorkshire village has one ofits periodic catastrophes(you may recall the crashedairliner). Tom’s show homegoes up in a fireball, leavingvarious mystery characterstrapped in the rubble (T)(2503).

7.00 Channel 4 News.Including sport and weather(T) (951023).

7.55 3-Minute Wonder:Up Close and Personal.Chris Khoo, a plasticsurgeon, offers an insightinto his profession, includinghow toes can be made intofingers (T) (265752).

7.00 Five News.With Priya Kaur Jones(3978058).

7.15 Cricket on Five.England vs Pakistan.Highlights from the openingday of the first of four Testsbetween the teams atLord’s (T) (6372690).

6.00 BBC News (T) (787).

6.30 Regional News;Weather (T) (139).

6.00 Eggheads. A new setof challengers hoping to winthe big prize of £1,000 (R)(T) (329).

6.30 Flog It! Paul Martinexplores a Glasgowtenement flat that hasremained unchanged for100 years. Rab C Nesbitt’s,presumably (T) (481).

6.00 Granada Reports;Weather (T) (955).

6.30 ITV News; Weather(T) (435).

6.00 The Simpsons. Thelocal jazz identity BleedingGums Murphy teaches Lisahow to express her gloomymoods through music (R)(T) (597).

6.30 Hollyoaks. Russgets a helping hand fromMercedes (T) (357).

6.00 Home and Away.Ric has a terrible first dayas the school cleaner(T) (6273787).

6.30 Becker. John steps into help his cousin’s falteringmarriage (T) (6191139).

8.00 Extraordinary Pets.People who keep wildanimals as pets, includingan animal trainer who keepsa tiger cub around thehouse and two fully growntigers at the bottom of thegarden, and a professionalskydiver who keeps bottle-fed giraffes (bottles ofwhat?) on her farm (R)(3943684).

9.00 The HotelInspector. Ruth Watsonvisits Langtry Manor, athree-star establishment inBournemouth that, as itsname suggests, was built byEdward VII for his mistress.Them was the days, asWatson discovers outdateddecor and imprudentbudgeting (T) (3036348).

8.00 The View fromRiver Cottage. HughFearnley-Whittingstall looksback at his time in Dorset,which is just a polite wayof saying that this is arepeat (R) (T) (6771).

8.30 Jamie’s GreatEscape. As is this (R) (T)(8706).

9.00 33Truly MadlyDeeply. SEE PICK OF THEDAY (T) (6329).

8.00 PokerFace. Six newcontestants try to bluffand double-bluff theiropponents in the gameshow hosted and devised(down the pub, apparently)by Ant and Dec (T) (5023).

9.00 Bad Girls. Return ofthe laughable prison soap,in which Amanda Donohoeplays the new governor, andSid Owen (Ricky fromEastEnders) also finds anacting berth. Tonight there’sa mysterious illness and adead governor to contendwith (T) (8787).

8.00 James May’s TopToys. A celebration ofsuch classic toys asMeccano, Lego, Scalextric,Airfix and (of course) thetrain set (R) (T) (8597).

9.00 33Horizon:Nuclear Nightmares.SEE PICK OF THE DAY(T) (322139).

9.50 Coast. The southWales littoral (T) (363874).

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8.00 33Sport ReliefPresents Little Britain’sBig Swim. SEE PICK OF THEDAY (T) (3905).

9.00 Only Fools onHorses. Angus Deaytonand Kirsty Gallacher hostmore of the showjumpingcharity event that is unlikelyto revive widespreadinterest in the sport (T)(3619).

Julia4PM MORE4Jane Fonda (above) as Lillian Hellmanis terrific, but Vanessa Redgrave wonan Oscar in this glossy, respectful taleof resisting the Nazis.

I Hate the 60s6PM UKTV HISTORYDavid Aaronovitch (right), CristinaOdone and Peter Hitchens are thesceptical triumvirate taking aim atthe decade described by NormanTebbit as “insufferable, smug, sancti-monious, naive, guilt-ridden, wet,pink". But don’t get him started.

Evacuees7PM BBC2How one and a half million Britishchildren, labelled like luggage, wereevacuated from the cities to thecountryside in September 1939.

Test Cricket10AM SKY SPORTS 1Matthew Hoggard, his hand troddenon by his teammate Tim Bresnanduring a game of touch rugby, sees ifhe is fit to face Pakistan at Lord’s inthe First Test. The England attack isalready deprived of Andrew Flintoff,Simon Jones and Ashley Giles.

Golf1PM BBC2The Scottish Open from LochLomond. Prize money of £2.4m,not the scenery, has lured thelikes of Sergio Garcia and Ernie Els.

33 FROM 6 TO 8PM33BEFORE 6PMWATCHROUNDTHE CLOCKYOUR GUIDE TOTODAY’S MUST-SEE TVBY GERARD GILBERT

33

THE INDEPENDENT THURSDAY 13 JULY 2006•••••• 9

going to fit the bill. There was adrive in Uganda to help moveexport earnings towards non-traditional crops and I wasawarded a small grant from aUS-government-fundedprojectto establish vanilla. It becameclear that to make a success ofit on a small scale I was going tohave to take it all the way downthe line: grow itandbuy it fromothers, cure it, extract it, pack-age it, brand it, market it…

The decision to launch NdalivanillaasFairtradewasasmuchabusinessdecisionas itwaside-ological. I’d already built up a

good, close, workingrelationship

with a small group of vanillafarmersinthemountains. Igavethemsalescommissionfromourown cured sales of their vanilla;most importantly, we trustedeachother.Thelogicalstepthenfor both parties was to help thefarmers gain Fairtrade certifi-cation,enablingthemtobecomemore professional and inde-pendent with the support of alarge “family” network and, atthe same time, validating theNdali brand in the eyes of theUK supermarkets.

I had no interest from thesestores at first. Then I hit luckywith the creative, open-mindedbuyer at Waitrose, who took

time, three years ago, to reallylisten. WhenIcalledayearlater,a little closer to my goal with apackaging prototype, the samebuyersaid:“Weliketoworkwithsmall businesses such as your-selves”. It was still a long wayoff from a “yes”, but I clung tomy vision like a pit bull terrier.

In September last year myfarmers became the first Fair-trade-certified vanilla growers(and still the only ones) on theAfricancontinent–aidedbymyclose work for more than a yearwith the Fair-

trade Labelling Organ-isation (FLO) in Bonn, and theUKFairtradeFoundation, toes-tablishwhatwouldbeafairpriceforgreenUgandanbeans. Inowpaymorethantwicethecurrentconventional price to Fairtradegrowers.TwomonthslaterNdaliFairtrade vanilla was launchedonWaitrose’sshelvesandinvar-ious independent shops as thefirst-ever retailing Fairtradevanilla. Hugh Fearnley-Whit-tingstallhaskindlycalleditsomeof the best vanilla he has evercome across. In the meantime Ihave taught myself how to ob-tain pure vanillin crystals (thewhitecompoundthatgivesvanil-

la its typical aroma) on thesurface of the best beans andhowtoproducevanillaextractfrom whole beans.

But we still have an awful-ly long way to go. Total salestoonesupermarketamounttounder 200kg of cured vanillain one year. From 10 tonnes ofgreen beans Ndali produces1,800kg a year of cured vanillaandcouldquiteeasilytreblethatproduction, especially since weare overwhelmed with farmersclamouringto jointheFairtradenetwork,whichhasgrownfrom50 to more than 600 farmers.Buttherearetwoobstacles:peo-ple are not used to using whole-beanvanilla intheircooking(es-pecially in savoury recipes) sovolumes are always going to beon the low side, and I need an-other supermarket to stock ourvanilla if branded sales are tomake a real impact on farmers’bottom lines here in Uganda.

In the meantime I am innegotiation with the DutchandBelgianmarketsandamfo-cusing on other avenues tospread my risk: offering tosupply my “competitors” withour vanilla for their ownbrands, including

thesupermarkets;offeringbulkvanillapricestothemajorvanillaextract manufacturers, whichalsohelpstoabsorbmysmaller,grade-Bbeans;andwehavehada serious enquiry from a spe-cialist soap manufacturer. I amalso developing a unique Ndali-blend Fairtrade vanilla extract.

My biggest mistake has beennottoconcentrateonthesemorestable, bread-and-butter, av-enues earlier. Yet this may nothave been feasible since thegreatest blessing of being oneofthefirstoperatorsintheworldtohaveFairtradevanillahasalsobeen the greatest stumblingblock – being ahead of the gamecan be frustrating, waiting forothers to catch up. The largestworld consumers of vanillabeans are the US manufactur-ers of industrial vanilla extract(and other related vanilla prod-ucts), such as McCormick andDanisco. Their products go intoice cream, biscuits, chocolateandpastriestheworldover.Bothappear to be researching cus-tomer demand and the possiblesupplyofFairtradevanillabeans.

But giants move slowly and Istill have a tonne of Fairtradevanillasittinginmycuringhouse

while we are about to start an-otherharvest. I’mshort-termgambling but I don’t want tolet the farmers down byturning away their crop. Ilike to think that’s calledburningbridgestoachieveriches…

www.ndali.net

n Vanilla grows on vines,which climb up trees or poles.Most vanilla is grown in Mada-gascar, India and China

n Vanilla was first producedin ancient Mexico, and wasbrought to Europe by theSpanish conquistadors.Mexico continued to be themain producer throughoutthe 19th century.

n The fruit or pod of thevanilla contains tiny blackseeds, which contain thevanilla flavouring.

n The main speciesgrown as a cropisVanillaplanifolia.In Mexico, it is polli-nated by a native bee,but in other countriesthe flowers must bepollinated by hand. Theflowers are short-livedand farmers must har-

vest the pods before theyopen, so vanilla is a labour-intensive crop.

n Vanilla is one of the keyingredients of Coca-Cola, andthe Coca-Cola corporation isone of the largest consumersof natural vanilla extract.

n Vanilla has many uses inboth sweet and savoury cook-

ing. It is widely used incakes and ice cream,

but the majority ofmanufactured

foods con-tain syntheti-cally producedvanilla flavouring, which ismuch cheaper to produce thanthe real thing.

n Vanilla was oncethought to be an aphro-

disiac and a remedyfor fevers. It is stillused in aromather-

apy treatments.

The flavour maker

On the farm(from left): workersblanching vanillapods; vanillaworker NtonganiVincent sun-dryingvanilla; Lulu Sturdygrading vanillawith worker DeoByamukama and(below) on theNdali estate withher dogsHARTMUT FIEBIG;

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