wine republic oct-nov.pdf

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ISSN 1853-9610

N69 OCT - NOV 2014MENDOZAS FREE MAGAZINE


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Issue Oct - Nov 2014| ISSN 1853-9610 - 10,000 CopiesPublished by Seven Colors S.A.Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento3. Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613E-mail: [email protected]: Charlie OMalley

Wine Editor: Amanda BarnesPublicity and Publisher:Mariana Gmez Rus:[email protected],[email protected]: Gimena Federici - Jona [email protected]. Circlan.com.Printer: Artes Grficas UNIONContributing Authors: Kendra Novak y Lauren Jones.Illustrations: Donough OMalley,www.pencilrobot.netOpinions expressed in this magazine are notnecessarily the editorial opinions of WineRepublic.

www.wine-republic.com

CREDITS

CONTENTSNews Republic

Judge and Jury.........................................................

Sptima Sunset Tasting........................................

We are Golden ........................................................

Trout vs. Fly

A Rivers runs through it.........................................

Nymphomania............. ...........................................

Super Trout...............................................................

Where to flyfish in Mendoza.............................

Malbec and Multi-grain.

The dough on serving wine with bread.........

Booze Control

No thanks Utha...................................................

Special on Cabernet Franc

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Octoberfest

Argentina has its very own Octoberfest.......

WishlistWe invite you to try some fab local wines

with some fab local loaves..................................

Out & About

Dining Out...............................................................

Winery Guide.........................................................

Bars.............................................................................

ps and Tips

Maps & More

Maps of Maip and Chacras de Coria............

Useful Information...............................................

Map of Mendoza City Center..........................,

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NEWS REPUBLIC

Judge and JuryThe well regarded Restaurant Magazine has just releasedits list of the top 50 restaurants in Latin America. Although

Argentina did relatively well with the most restaurantslisted, the highest on the list was ninth, compared to Peruwhich not only won with Astrid & Gaston in Lima but had7 in the top 15. Brazil and Mexico also featured stronglyand the results unleashed a storm of hand wringing andfrustration on Argentine social media, with many localslamenting the passing of a golden age and how this is justanother sign of Argentinas disintegration. In fact it couldjust be the rest of the region is catching up. We all knowhow ridiculous and arbitrary these lists are yet they makegreat click bait for all publications. Francis Mallman has itright. He resigned from judging last year, somewhat criticalthat his modern day peers waste too much time lobbyingand jockeying and worrying over awards and rankings.They should be too busy in the kitchen to worry aboutthese things. His restaurant 1884 was the only place inMendoza to feature in the list with a ranking of 37.

Sun SeptimaIt is hard to miss Septimas imposing structure. It is the lastimpressive winery you see as you head for the mountainson the Route 7 towards Chile. It has undoubtedly one ofthe best views of the Andes with an open top terrace overthe vineyards giving a panoramic vista of snow-capped

peaks. That view provides such spectacular sunsets that thewinery has now decided to open every Thursday eveningwith drinks and food provided on the terrace as you watchthe sun goes down. Not a bad way to end a day in Mendoza.For more information go to www.bodegaseptima.com

One Way to Beat theRecessionAll this talk of a downturn makes you want to hit the bottle.Wine Republic however has a more modest (and infinitelysensible) proposal that would instantly revive the Mendozawine industry and cost nothing to implement post thatbottle. The current laws that restrict people from sendingwine by post are not just illogical but are harmful to thelocal economy. So many frustrated wine tourists leaveMendoza without purchasing any wine at the wineries orwine stores because to ship is just too expensive. Countersales at wineries would be so much more brisk if peoplecould order a couple of cases, stick them in the post atminimal cost and then get a nice surprise one month later

when back in the rat race. If it is possible in other countrieswhy is it not here? Wineries, the tourism ministry and thepostal service should lobby to change a minor law thatcurrently benefits nobody.

We are GoldenWine Republic had the distinction of winning a gold medalat this years Best of Mendozas Wine Tourism Awards. Wejoined the podium and shared the warm glow of recognitionwith such venerable institutions as Cecchin, Andeluna andthe Vines of Mendoza. Eleven years of serving up Mendozain what we hope is a readable and enjoyable manner to its

many visitors has finally paid off. We would like to thankall our advertisers from down the years, many of which arewith us from the beginning. Also thank you to the manyenthustiastic writers that have scribbled their thoughts andexperiences of Mendoza and its wine. Salud y gracias!


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Illustrationsby

DonoughOMalley

www.p

encilrobo

t.net

bigger the more south you go. That is not tosay the north is also splendid hunting groundwith its turquoise rivers snaking throughtemperate rainforests with a backdrop ofsnow capped volcanoes. Such chocolate boxscenery has forested mountain lakes feedingglacial rivers and fast mountain creeksrunning through alpine valleys. One of thebest aspects of fishing in such beautiful areassuch as San Martin de los Andes and Alumineis the ease of access, with buses, taxis and

even bikes getting you to a river bed.

The south is a different kettle of trout.Santa Cruz and Tierra de Fuego are harsh,somewhat bleak environments with hugedistances and poor infrastructure. Thebeautiful, wind swept semi-desert steppeis overrun with guanacos, rheas and theoccasional puma. Many of the rivers areglacial run-off with high soil tannins. Thecold, cloudy, nutrient poor water has forcedthe fish out to sea where they discovered

rich feeding grounds to gorge themselves onbefore returning inland. Famous rivers suchas the Rio Grande, Gallegos and Irigoyen aredotted with private fishing lodges wherepeople pay $1000 US a day to fish. Publicaccess is restricted and a guide is definitelyrequired. Many people find it very muchworth the effort and expense to be at what isthe final frontier in sport fishing. Just watchout for those damn beavers.


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NYMPHOMANIA

You have to feel sorry for the humble stonefly. He spendstwo years living beneath a stone, building himself up forwhat can only be described as an aquatic orgy. With hisnew set of wings he finally springs into action, jumpingaround the waters edge, beating his belly whilst lookingfor his own private harem. And what happens? A large,surly trout pounces from the brook and gobbles him whole.

End of stone fly.

It is cold comfort to know that the unfortunate insect

would have died anyway upon consummation but atleast he would have died fulfilled. He has successfullyclosed the circuit on natures life cycle whichbegins and ends with lots of sex. The adultstonefly is designed to mate and little else.On maturity many never bother to eatand some actually have no mouths.They are sleek, determined, aquadynamic sex machines.

You wouldnt think that when examining them beneatha stone on an Andean stream. Here they are winglessnymphs a tiny, multi-colored alien-like creature with

three pairs of crab-like legs and freaky eyes wide apart.They cling and crawl, sucking on lichen, pollen and algae,awaiting their big day when they finally creep out ontothe sunny bank to dry off and discard the transparentexoskeleton suit and announce themselves as available andsingle on social media.

Of course it is too simplistic to state they exist to reproduceonly. The stone fly is an important part of the river habitatand a key item on the food chain from morsel to mammal.The humble stone fly is an essential component in a riversecosystem. No fly means no fish which ultimately means

no geekish human plodding around in green rubber tightswith a pole and string. The stonefly is the fishermans bestfriend and one the latter tries to emulate with his box ofhandmade ties, matching size and colors with what hediscovers beneath rocks to entice the trout out and ontoa hook. The perfect revenge you could say and cleverlyplayed by the insect.

Another unintended role of the stone fly is as a bio-monitor. These bugs love clean, pure, oxygen rich waterand wont tolerate anything less. Biologists use the stonefly to rate water quality. They collect the insect with nets

and count them over a period of time to determine justhow much pollution may affect a river. You can onlyhope they are considerate enough not to do it

during mating season.

The fly hasonly onething on hismind.


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SUPERTROUT

Trout dont sleep. How can they? They do not haveeyelids. Instead they pass an inordinate amount of time

scanning the water surface for food. Whilst the fly mighthave an unhealthy fascination with sex, the trouts focusis very much on what is next on the menu. It uses itsmany remarkable physical attributes to detect, catch anddevour a wide variety of food items. Its expansive palateis partial to beetles, worms, wasps, minnows, crayfish,snails, mollusks, leeches, shrimps and of course, flies.Larger trout have even been known to eat the occasionalunlucky mouse.

Rather than wander off and hunt, it prefers to stay putand enjoy a constant form of home delivery. It lurks

in the water, hovering in the same spot whilst facingupstream, on constant alert for any tidbits that float by.Trout are called inject breathers they need flowing waterto breathe. The constant current and more limited menumeans the river trout is leaner and meaner than its lakeor sea faring cousins who have more food with less effortand can fatten up to 9 kilos. They can live up to 11 years.

Those large, lidless eyes are located on each side of its head,giving it almost 360 degree vision with a blind patch at itstail and directly under its belly. Its main focus is abovewhere it has a binocular view of the waters surface. It hasexcellent night vision and sees better in water than out.

Its sense of taste and smell is 500 times more acute than ahuman and more powerful than a bloodhound. It is howthey can retrace exactly the original river where theyspawned - crucial for those who wander out to sea to feedbut require a river to return to and reproduce.

The trout is uncommonly strong and super quick. Arainbow trout can accelerate from a standstill to 37kmin one second, do so for 100 meters and then stop just assuddenly. It can break a line twice its own weight andjump in the air to a height 3 or 4 times its own body length.

If this fails to impress you, try jumping from a swimmingpool 8 meters in the air.

There isnothingwet aboutthis fish.


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Try the company voted Mendozas top sightseeing tour

in Tripadvisor (October 2014)


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WHERE TO FLYFISHIN MENDOZAPatagonia gets all the attention whenit comes to fly fishing in Argentina.Menwhile in the North lies Mendoza,basking in sun and set amongst thedramatic Andean scenery. Not long onthe tourist radar, the area is contentgaining a reputation as the perfectescape for those who love reveling inthe lush vineyards and sipping Malbecwhilst gorging on icecream scenery.People believe the only fish you gethere is on a plate and the lack of bugsmean a fly is just another term for atrouser zip. Yet the fact is there is acommunity of locals who like nothingbetter than pulling on rubber tightsand spending their weekends dancingin mountain streams trying to catchthat big one. They do it in Uspallata,they do it in Potrerillos, they do it inSan Rafael and they especially do it inValle de Uco.

Valle de Uco is a fertile plain 80kmsouthwest of Mendoza City. Nestledbetween the low Pre-Cordillera andthe towering blunted peaks of theCordon de Plata, it is a high altitudezone producing excellent grapes,pears and peaches. It also producesa wily, intelligent, querulous trout.The valley is particularly stunningat daybreak when the snowcappedpeaks reflect the bright orange andpink of the rising sun. Also bathed insuch chocolate box glory is EstanciaSan Pablo, a 40,000 hectare workingranch that ripples along the Andeanfoothills the whole way to Chile.3000 rust-colored cattle dot the hills,watched by monogamous condors andshy guanacos. The main draw here isthe crystal clear Rio San Pablo, a fastmoving mountain stream that gushesover brown stones and through a

long green sliver of valley that opensthe mountains to Argentinas Pacificneighbor. This river is jumping withtrout wild fighting rainbow that aresmall, super quick and hard to catch.Besides the fact it is full of fish and in

a spectacular setting, San Pablo is aprvate river which means you verymuch have it to yourself. Anotherbig draw is the estancia owners haveset up a rustic barbecue area whereyou can enjoy a Riverside lunch ordinner. Another unique feature aretwo genuine Mongolian yurts, each ofwhich sleeps 4 people comfortably.

Another good river in the Valley isArroyo Blanco, a public waterway notfar from Estancia San Pablo. Here thefish frustrate the most experiencedfishermen and challenge the mostadept. Skilled anglers can spendhours trying to read the river andcoax something from the clear poolsand out onto the banks. This is whyit always important to go with a goodguide and get a crash course in fishinga Mendoza river, learning that here

the trout are no fools and must beapproached in a completely differentmanner with a different fly and with adifferent technique. They also requireeffort and speed. By early afternoonthe river reveals itself as teeming withrainbow colored stone dwellers thatwant to come out to play.

Trout & Wine Tours specialise in fly

fishing in the Uco Valley.

For more information contact

[email protected] call (0261) 4255613.


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MALBEC ANDMULTI-GRAINAmanda Barnes givesus the dough on servingwine with bread

If you have ever organized a fancy wine-paired dinner to impress your friends,youre likely to have spent a couple ofhours or so agonizing over what wine toserve with what course. Do you dare ared with fish, or stick to the safe white?Does the night end on sparkling orsweet? And what the hell is going to gowith that stinking blue cheese?

You can imagine what Mendozaswineries go through when theycreate lunch menus professing to

make matches made in heaven. Winepairing is a tricky business: do itwrong and you can kill your lovinglyprepared dish, or make your wine justlook flabby. Do it right and you canhear the murmur of mini-epiphaniesflutter around the dining room. Goodwine and food pairings will improve,flatter and often fool.

Make sure you dont forget one vitalelement the bread.

We often just think of bread as alittle filler before the real food comesout, and the first wine will often bethe cheap stuff because you knoweveryone will slug it like a pint of wateron a hot day. But dont underestimatethe power of pairing bread with wine.Nail it on the head, and man really canlive by bread and wine alone.

When it comes to bread and winepairing you have to think about

whats gone into the bread first: water,yeast, flour, fat and flavour. The waterand yeast rarely change, but theflour you use white, whole-wheat,multi-grain, manioc, will dramaticallychange the flavour and taste of the

bread. The fat you might use beefdripping, olive oil, butter, will alsogive you a different resulting flavour,aroma and texture. And finally, willyou be adding smoked chorizo, olives,raisins or nuts? Every type of breadwill pair better with a different wine,and every bread will make a wine

taste different. The only exceptionis perhaps the ubiquitous cracker,whose unadventurous essence ofnothingness and low impact is seen asa virtue in a wine tasting.

In Argentina, bread tends to havequite rich flavours because of theuse of beef dripping in its cooking.Think of a traditional cremona breadfrom Argentina, usually in a starshape with dough made in a layeringmethod with beef dripping betweeneach layer upon layer: the texture isfine and crunchy but the flavour issalty and rich. A white wine pales incomparison, you need a light Malbecor even a Cabernet to stand up to thesmoky yet subtle beef flavours andthe weight of the bread.

Try a focaccia, which is heavily saltedand doused with olive oil, and youneed a different pairing. Foccaccia isoften made with different flavours

added in olives, rosemary, commonlyhere youll find chicharones (porkrind). All of those will impact thepairing, but the salt and olive oil willneed a wine with decent acidity to cutthe oiliness of the bread perhaps agood sparkling for textural fun too.

One of my favourite breads youllfind in good Argentine restaurants orbakeries is a semi-sweet brown breadwith honey, raisins and nuts. This

bread is just gagging for a voluptuousViognier or Chardonnay: fruit andsweetness echo each other and elevatethe aromatic experience but the finishis dry with a well achieved balance.Its a meal in itself.

Dont play down the importanceof your bread and wine pairings combinations are endless. And whodoesnt love a decent slab of breadwith a good glass of wine? Move overMr Atkins!

Amanda Barnes is a British winewriter based in Mendoza and tastingher way through the highs and loavesof Argentine cuisine and wine. www.amandabarnes.co.uk


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Kendra Novakmarvels atMendozas liberaldrinking laws.

BOOZECONTROL

Ive lived in the United States for my whole life and grewup in the conservative, outdoorsy state that is Utah. Afterliving in Mendoza for a little over a month, Ive come to lovethe city, all the while adjusting to the different lifestyle andculture here. While Mendoza is the land of the sun andgood wine, Utah might be the land of snow and Diet Coke.Whilst wine, beer and Fernet flow in Mendoza like theresno tomorrow, in Utah the strict and sometimes confusingliquor laws make it harder to buy a drink.

The biggest difference between Mendoza and Utah, and the

United States in general, is the drinking age. In Mendoza,any eighteen-year old can buy a bottle of Malbec, but in theUS, anyone younger than 21 cant buy an alcoholic drink.In fact, they cant even by non-alcoholic beer or wine. InUtah, if you look younger than 35 and are trying to buyalcohol, the cashier is legally obligated to ask for an ID card,and sometimes people well into their fifties still get carded.Meanwhile in Mendoza, I have bought plenty of bottles ofwine as a twenty-year old in a grocery store, or drinks in aboliche and have yet to show any identification.

In Mendoza, places like Antares and PH on Aristides havetwo-for-one happy hour, and its certainly appreciatedby thirsty Mendocinos. But in Utah, happy hour, or anydiscounts on drinks, is illegal.

In Utah, its illegal to buy a drink at a restaurant withoutordering something to eat. So if you just want to grab a drinkand talk with a friend at your favorite restaurant, youreout of luck. For Utah residents, it seems normal when thewaiter asks Will you be ordering food tonight? when youask for a martini, but to the unsuspecting tourist, that mustbe a confusing and strange question. But in Mendoza, thereis no problem with imbibing without a meal.

In my home state you cant buy a container of alcoholthats bigger than two liters. The stereotypical image ofAmerican house parties with kegs of beer doesnt exist inUtah, and a classic Mendocino 6-liter damajuana wouldattract law enforcement. However, there is no limit to howmany bottles you can buy at one time, so you could buy one

What in the World?!

hundred bottles of wine, but not one bottle that is largerthan 2 liters. Sometimes, people drive to Wyoming to buy akeg of beer for a big party, but even that is illegal too, sinceonly the state is allowed to bring alcohol into Utah.

However, for a few happy months in 2011, it was possibleto buy a 5-liter keg, lovingly referred to as a Chubby. InFebruary 2011, beer breweries in Utah jumped on the

opportunity to make and sell these mini-kegs in the stateand they also distributed them to neighboring states,including Nevada. But when August came around, thekegs were deemed to be illegal in Utah and the breweriesstopped making them. But, there still were some Utah-made Chubbies on the shelves of liquor stores in Nevada,even though there werent any in Utah. Later that year,some of my friends were in Nevada, bought a Chubbythere that came from a Utah brewery, and brought it backto Utah. They cracked open the now illegal keg a fewkilometers away from where it was originally made, butthe only way they were able to buy it and drink it at homewas if they purchased the keg almost 700 kilometers from

its birthplace and drove it back those same 700 kilometers,only to drink it 10 kilometers away from its brewery.

There are countless other confusing liquor laws in Utahand most of them would be scoffed at by any Argentine.And as much as I love Utah, it can be a frustrating place tolive, and Im developing a very big soft spot for Mendoza.Siesta is becoming a very important part of my day, buta city-wide naptime would never happen in Utah. Ingeneral, the pace of daily life and the people in Mendozaare much more relaxed than in Utah and that makes it avery pleasant place to live. As I spend the next few months

further exploring Mendoza and getting to know theins and outs of the city, Im sure I will notice even moredifferences between Mendoza and the United States. Butits those differences that give each place unique and quirkypersonalities, and make me happy to call both places home.

Utah isnt the only place with strange drinkinglaws. In Nigeria, its illegal to both brew andimport beer in the country. Naturally, it seemslike it should be illegal to drink beer too, butit isnt. If someone is over the age of 18 andsomehow manages to get their paws on a bottleof beer in Nigeria, theyre allowed to drink it. InRussia, beer that contained less than 10% alcoholwasnt considered to be an alcoholic drink untilrecently. And strangely enough in Scotland,if a man is drunk, it is illegal for him to be inpossession of a cow. In Ireland, the authorities

decide to ban happy hour to stop students gettingdrunk. Needless to say, like most drinking laws,it did not work.


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OCTOBERFEST

We sensed we were approaching VillaGeneral Belgrano when the roadsiderooftops took on a very red, shingly,German character. And when streetsigns bade us willkommen and offeredus bier by the cheap chop. Our hunchwas confirmed when we stepped offthe mini-bus and into the towns mini

terminal. There was a mess of festivalgoers in line to purchase their returntickets: foul-smelling, glassy-eyed,smiling. Most of them tourists. All ofthem drunk. It was almost 2:30 PM.We joined the line, eager to buy ourway out of beer heaven while we werestill sober.

That done, we headed toward town.Yellow streamers hung overhead,stretched across Belgranos main(read: only) street. Uniform wooden

storefronts selling souvenirs at our sides.Belgrano was the real-life equivalent ofa toy town made from Lincoln logs.

The fairs entrance was at onceobviousIm sure even the super-inhibited noticed. A larger-than-lifesized barrel sits in front of an archwayand begs you to do the tourist thing:snap a Before photo of you and thebarrel. Because God knows youll notremember to take the After one.

Just inside the entrance, we wereoverwhelmed by kiosks selling the

necessary: mugs of all different shapesand sizesmugs seemingly left overfrom Oktoberfests passed in distantGerman towns. And sashes for yourmug. And elfish hats for your spinning,tipsy head. The chocolate booth, a

Forget Munich. Argentina has its very ownOctoberfest in the German colony town of

Villa General Belgrano in Cordoba. LaurenJones reports on the beer lovers garden party.

touch out of place at this affair, seemedto be getting little-to-no action. Wefigured the mugs necessary andsufficient, made our purchases, andwere funneled like college booze intothe main area of the park.

The chocolate booth seemed

to be getting little-to-noaction

Imagine a clock face. You enterthe park and straight ahead, at twelveoclock, is the grand stage. Argentinedancers pull off a German numberin flowing white dresses. At oneoclock there are bathrooms. The onlybathrooms. You think to yourself,Hmf, within two beers time, Illlikely consider this an upset in event

planning. A contiguous semi-circle ofbeer kiosks extends from two oclockto eleven oclock (broken only bythe entrance, where you stand at sixoclock, and the aroma of warm applestrudel that is emanating from eightoclock but is filling the air from seven-to nine oclock). Pale Ale. Stout. Reds.Honey Beer. Raspberry and cherryBeer. Commercially-sold beer. Artesianmicro brews. Barely wine. Straight-out-of-Germany Beer. Beer from Patagonia.Beer without any preservatives.

Expensive beer (priced from $50 ARto $200 AR, depending on the size ofmug you picked up near the entrance).People, alcohol, and food cover red andwhite checkered tablecloths, which inturn cover picnic tables, which fill the

center of the arena. It is pandemonium.You need a cold one.

We staked out a picnic table andchristened it our base for the day. Passers-by were our entertainment:

A troupe of men in kilts, dancing

something akin to a do-si-do and splashing

into their surroundings what beer they stillhad in their mugs. Perhaps the largest Argentine man Ive

seen, fully clad in vest and calf-lengthtrouserswith giant fake ears and allexposed skin painted shamrock green. Itwas Disneys Shrek, executed to perfection,nevermind that Halloween was still acouple weeks off. Our attractive/inebriated American

friend posing while three different cliquesof females took pictures and asked for hisautograph. A semi-sedated elderly couple, sharing

our picnic table and requesting that wecalm down, as we were close to knockingover their 18-peso beer. Two college kids, interviewing us with

their video camera in attempt to makea documentary of Oktoberfest for theirtourism class. Affected by their drink, theypreferred to star in their own show and hadus interview their merry time. The most absurd encounter of all: a

group of boys who insisted on teaching

us their very Argentine custom: whendrinking among friends, tradition saysthat each male and female combinationwithin the group must toast, drink, andkiss. Yeah. Right. Our same attractive/inebriated American

friend is genuinely proposed to by anequally inebriated female.

For a while after sunset, we hung aroundinside the festival grounds. Chatting,finishing our drinks, making stumbling

trips over to the bathroom (about whichwe could only affirm that, yes, this was anupset in event planning.). Christmas-likelights and big lanterns came on, hangingbetween trees. The revelry was still infull swing around 11:00 PM, but our buswas to depart shortly. We exited the parkand wobbled down Main Streetit was asalive and raucous as ever. We hoped thewinding bus ride back would be gentle onour stomachs. And I hoped the quantityof alcohol would go easy on my memory.After all, I had a magazine article to write.

Octoberfest takes place on the

second weekend of October in Villa

General Belgrano, Cordoba.


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Quem no visto no lembrado!

Anuncie na Wine Republic

Fale conosco: 54 0261 [email protected]


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DINING OUT

MENDOZA CITY

ITUZAINGOFor an intimate, unusual and memorable

evening - Ituzaingo is one of the citys bestkept secrets. A closed door restaurantlocated in a historic house in the bohemianquarter, Ituzaingo has been receiving ravereviews from locals, expats and travellersalike who relish in the warm atmosphere,good company, unique art, and goodfood all accompanied by an eclectic musicmix. The maestro in question is GonzaloCuervo who likes to welcome in up to 45people in his attractive loft conversionhouse or leafy summer garden, and hischef Francisco can delight guests with aneight course menu of Argentine flavours

catered to an international palate, orsimply relax with a glass of wine. Thisis a real place to meet the wines, food,art, music and hospitality of Argentina. 8course menu of argentine cuisine with 3glasses of wine and a welcome drink, oryou can order sharing plates and wine bythe glass. For those who like to learn moreabout regional culture and gastronomyItuzaingo has the option of an ArgentineanCooking Class which is a lot of fun andeducational. Prices between 400 and500 pesos per person (wines included).Open Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat from 8.30pm.

Reservations essential. ItuzaingoResto, tel (261) 15 666 5778, [email protected]

GRILL QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, Grill Q

serves up traditional regional cuisine ata five star level. Sit back in the chic parillastyle restaurant amongst the cowhidesand local artwork, pick from one of themany Mendocinean wines, make yourorder and watch the chefs at work in theopen kitchen. They are famous for theirgrilled meats and gigantic empanadas,and serve hearty Argentine classicssuch as locro - a stew which hailsback to the early independence days.Save room for the stunning desserts.The Hyatts other restaurant, Bistro M,offers a more gourmet evening menu

and the most exuberant lunch menuin town. With a gorgeous buffet spreadof starters like squid and basil stew,crispy calamari with cool gazpachoand mezze style tapas, youll need tobring your stretchy waistbands to fit inthe hearty and flavourful main optionsand the sumptuous dessert buffet ontop. Put aside an hour or two for thistempting lunch or make your way herein the evening to try the Mediterraneaninspired dishes including delicious pasta,fresh fish and some great cuts of meat.Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225. Avg. meal GrillQ $240 pesos. Bistro M Executive Menu$270 with starter buffet, main course,

dessert buffet and glass of wine.

PATRONAThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has acasual, rustic charm about it. A colourfulhub of activity on a quiet street, Patronaattracts a crowd full of locals every nightof the week who come for the honest,traditional Argentine food and friendlyand warm atmosphere. Classic dishes

like the hearty empanadas and sizzlingasado are worthy and popular fare butthe real star here is Patronas warm,open sandwiches We recommend theartichoke hearts and goats cheese;roasted vegetables with white wine andhoney; or the more traditional pick ofrich glands cooked in lemon. A decentwine list and some satisfying dessertscomplete the gastronomy experiencebut the key to Patrona is the cosy waythat they really make you feel at home.Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm

- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. mealcost: $140/(including starter, maindish, dessert+a glass of wine)

EL MERCADITOWith an attractive fairy lit patio and terrace

outside, this is the perfect spot for somelunch time sunshine or al fresco dining.Run by three friends, El Mercadito has acool vibe and relaxed music making it afavorite. Opened recently by three friends,El Mercadito is offering something a littlebit different to Mendoza. With a cool vibe,relaxed music and attractive waiting staff,this is quickly becoming a favorite hotspot for a coffee, bite to eat or eveningcocktails. Opening in the morning forhealthy breakfasts and antioxidant juices,El Mercadito stays open throughout thesiesta with its light menu of sandwiches, big

salads and some Argentine classic meals.Chow down to big healthy salads like theLangoustine with huge juicy prawns,fresh avocado and green leaves or tuckinto one of their big toasted sandwicheslike smoked salmon and cream cheese,or jamon crudo and arugula served withchunky chips and homemade BBQ sauce.As the sun goes down make sure to try outone of their yummy strawberry mojitos! ElMercadito, Aristides Villanueva 521,(261) 4638847. Avg. meal price: $ 150.Chacras de Coria: Viamonte 4961, te:4962267.

LA MARCHIGIANAAs the first Italian restaurant in Mendoza,La Marchigiana has plenty of history andtraditional recipes to whet any nonna`sappetite. Maria Teresa Corradini deBarbera`s family restaurant started offwith only six hearty Italian dishes but hasgrown into a popular local fixture whichis always busy despite its curious lack ofambience. The pasta is the best thing here,maintaining original recipes from over 60

years ago; we recommend the huge stuffedravioli. Check out the Brad Pitt photo forcelebrity credentials. La Marchigiana,Patricias Mendocinas 1550. (261)4230751. Avg. meal price: $130

CEIBOOffering one of the most complete cookingand cultural experiences in Mendoza, thisintimate restaurant serves classic Argentinecountryside cuisine with a contemporarytwist as well as its daily cooking classes.Chef Mauricio and Sommelier Eugeniawelcome you into their converted familyhome and offer a 3 to 4 hour cooking classwhereby you learn the culture of cocina

Grill Q


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de campo as well as trying your hand attraditional cooking techniques like cookingin a mud oven, al disco and learning the

art of the perfect asado as well as makingempanadas, choripan, homemade breadand chimichurri sauce. Five courses oftraditional cuisine are paired with boutiqueArgentine wines and you finish off makingfresh herb cocktails from the patio gardenand can try rolling Argentine tobacco. A fun,cultural and culinary experience to enrichyour understanding of Argentina and itscuisine. The restaurant is also open everyevening (except Sundays) and serve classicArgentine dishes like a variety of empanadasand roasted meats along with signaturedishes from Mauricio and boast a fantasticwine list and warm environment. Ceibo, 25de Mayo 871 (in front of Plaza Italia), (261)420 2992. Avg. meal price $ 170, cookingclass from $100US

ANNA BISTROAnna Bistro has been an importantrestaurant on Mendozas food scenesince it opened 8 years ago, howeverthat doesnt stop it from renovatingitself each year. This year Jerome andhis team have started smoking their

own salmon and cheese to add a bitmore flavour to some dishes and youcan try the rich salmon on deliciousbrioche and go the whole hog with a potof delicious steaming, garlicky prawns.Along with a handful of salmon dishesthere are a host of different foods onthe menu including classic steak, richlamb, creamy pastas and lots of lighteroptions including big salads, sharingplatters and vegetarian dishes. Whilelunch and dinner is still its main game,the beautiful gardens and restaurant areopen for breakfast from 8am offering

unending treats from their own Frenchpatisserie and the late afternoon is

perfect for sipping your way throughthe extensive cocktail list or takeyour pick from the arm long wine list.

Av. Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 4251818. Everyday 8am till late. Avg.meal cost: $190 pesos.

OUTSIDE CITYCENTER

LOS NEGRITOSRight in the middle of Las Vegas (inPotrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza) thisrestaurant stems from a story of afamily who came to live in here one ofthe first weekend houses constructedin the area. They named their homelos negritos a nickname of their twoyoung children. Many years later, oneof the negritos (Enrique) decided toleave the bustle of the city, movedto the mountains and opened arestaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas.The restaurant serves lunch anddinner every weekend and on publicholidays and the cuisine is flavourfuland typically Argentine with stews(such as Tomaticn and mondongo)

, milanesas, humita and homemadepasta - many of the recipes used are old

family recipes. The restaurant has beenrecognized as part of the gastronomicalroute and is noted for its quality of

cooking, architecture and landscape.Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos.(261)155697431. Avg: $120

TERRUO-CLUB TAPIZTucked away among the sprawlingMaipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resortand its lovely restaurant Terruo. Thishandsome eatery boasts an elegantinterior, excellent service and a winelist that is sure to please even themost finicky of wine snobs. Theirchef compiles a tantalising menu thatincludes top notch lomo steaks, arotating range of salads and a savoryginger/honey chicken dish that issecond to none. If you like what yousee and taste, book a room in one oftheir seven Renaissance-style villas.Dont forget to call ahead for dinnerreservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517Maip. AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131.tapiz.com. Lunch, everyday, 12pm- 3pm. Dinner, Sun - Thurs, 8pm-

11pm, Fri & Sat until 12am. Avg.meal cost: $370 pesos.

FUENTE Y FONDA

Taking over a beautiful space on the Plaza Italia is Pablo del Rios new restaurant,Fuente y Fonda. You might know the chef for his contemporary Argentine cuisineat Siete Cocinas, but the ethos behind his new venture is to forget the fancycrockery and edible flowers and serve it how his grandma would. Expectunpretentious dining and huge portions of lovingly-prepared Argentine homecomfort foods: milanesas topped with cheese and ham, huge dishes of stuffedpasta, and plates of meat for everyone to attack in the middle of the table. Thefood is honest and tastes great, the prices are excellent, the wine list is fab and

this place is sure to be one of your new mid-week favourites.


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WINERY IN FOCUS - MASSI

There is little chance of hearing anywine making repetition when you visitMassi Winery in Valle de Uco. Otherwineries may work from the same scriptbut a visitor to this modern wineryconstructed in 2004 will experienceaspects of the art of winemaking that arerare in Mendoza. For a start the winery isan enthusiastic creator of Amarone stylewine revealing the owners Tuscanorigins. Here the grapes are dried for atime in racks before crushing to createa very ripe, raisiny, full-bodied wine. Thewinery is not afraid to experiment withunusual varieties either; the flagshipwine Corvec is a blend of Malbec andCorvina. They also produce a refreshing,pale wine that is an unusual combinationof Torrontes and Pinto Grigio. Located10km outside Tupungato, the 20-yearold plants are set in sloped vineyardswith a spectacular backdrop of snowcapped mountains. The property

includes a native garden and moderniststyle tasting room and should be onevery wine tourists list when exploringthe valley.

LUJAN DE CUYO

Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of ChandonArgentina is a beautifully restored

bodega with well-appointed tastingroom. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames andCochabamba, Perdriel, Lujn deCuyo. www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Estrella de los AndesOn a leafy road in the middle ofLujan, this winery has a cool, retrodiner with well presented andtasty Argentine dishes that wontbreak your bank. Open all day anda relaxed atmosphere. Olavarria225, Perdriel, (261) 464 9190. www.

bodegaestrelladelosandes.com

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royal familyof Argentine wine and their seatof operations is a handsome andelegant 110-year old winery. Classicalarchitecture, ancient atmosphericcellars and rich wines such as the FincaLas Nobles range make for a fascinatingvisit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044,Mayor Drummond, Lujn de Cuyo.www.luigibosca.com.ar

THE WINERY GUIDERenacerThis Chilean-owned winery createsthe label Punto Final. Small, modernoperation with tour that includesa hands-on lesson in blending.

Brandsen 1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or 261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery houses anew venture by the prestigious Chileanwinery Montes. Big and powerfulwines, destined for fame. (0261) 5243160. Roque Saenz Pea 5516, LasCompuertas, Lujn de Cuyo. www.kaikenwines.com

Catena ZapataShowcase winery designed like aMayan temple overlooking vineyardsand the Andes Mountains. Rich,complex wines. (0261) 413 1100.Cobos s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.catenawines.com

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunchesmake Melipal one of the mostexclusive wineries to visit. (0261) 5248040.R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujn deCuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

BonfantiA lovely winery in a pastoral setting.Up close and personal tours withthe owners themselves and a tastingroom set amidst the vines.(0261) 488

0595. Terrada 2024, Lujan de Cuyo.Via CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbswas one of the first to recognisethe possibilities of Malbec and hisBramare label is possibly one of thebest examples of this varietal. (0261)479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.www.vinacobos.com

Belasco de BaquedanoGleaming modern facility withfascinating aroma room and

restaurant with Andean view. (0261)524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan deCuyo. www.belascomalbec.com

PiattelliA lovely family owned winery donein a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunch ona deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.piattellivineyards.com

Cruzat

A boutique traditional sparkling wineproducer with gorgeous bubbles thatcan be enjoyed from their terraceoverlooking vines. (261) 5242290,Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern andtraditional. Tasting includesdistinctive Torrontes or singlevineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.lzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujande Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

MendelAn old style winery ran by one ofArgentinas most famous winemakerdynasties the De La Motta family.(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863,Mayor Drummond, Lujan de Cuyo.www.mendel.com.ar

SeptimaA beautifully designed winery withclear views of the mountains and alarge terrace used for sunset wineevents after 6.30pm on Thursdays.Owned by the Spanish experts insparkling wine, Codorniu, they makefab sparkling wine under label Maria.(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujande Cuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com


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If you have ever wondered what itwould be like to taste over a dozentop scoring Argentine wines in onesitting, the Premium Tasting was thatopportunity. Now in its third yearrunning in Mendoza, this smartlyorganized event recently held inAugust, invites over 300 wine makers,writers and drinkers to sit downtogether in a blind tasting where30 wines that have scored over 92Parker or Tanzer points are pouredout to see how they measure up.

It isnt very often you get to tastesuch premium level wines alltogether (ranging from 170 to 1600pesos) and even rarer is the chanceto hear the winemaker of each winetalk about their choice in how they

Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

Pulenta Estate

Cool minimalist design and richcomplex wines make this a winerywith finesse and style. Fav. Wine:Cabernet Franc.(0261) 155 076426.Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.www.pulentaestate.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-end restaurant Terruo and aninstructive wine tour including barreland bottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202.Ruta Provincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo,Lujn de Cuyo. www.tapiz.com

NortonOld-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barreltastings,and jug fillings on Thursdaysare popular with the locals. (0261)490 9700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Lujn de Cuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovelyold bodega with lots of character.Fav. Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 496

0794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmosphericold-style winery with a modernist,light-filled tasting room with excellentview of mountains and vines.(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. CallejnMaldonado 240, Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

DoliumA completely underground winery

with innovative design and top notchMalbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery onthe main road to Chile just beforethe mountains and has a nicefamily feel to it. Fav. Wine: Rosado.(261)156992890. R.N.7 km 1060,Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

Navarro CorreasThe closest winery to Mendoza city,

easily accessible Navarro Correas is amodern winery with great sparklingwines and fun tasting options. (0261)4597916. San Francisco del Monte1555, Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com

LOCATIONS REFERENCESREFERENCES

Lujn de Cuyo

Maip

Mendoza City

San Martn

Valle de Uco

chose to make it. Before each winewas revealed you also had the chanceto pick your own favourite, and thegroups top pick was revealed onscreen before the labels were shown.

It perhaps is no surprise that thelist was dominated by Malbecs andMalbec-blends, but the increasingpresence of Cabernet Franc andmore red blends also show that thetide is changing in Argentina, andthe country is no longer just winningprizes for one variety alone.

To get tickets for 2015s PremiumTasting visit www.premiumtasting.com.ar

By Amanda Barnes

DeceroAttractive, modern facility withspectacular views of the mountainsfrom the cozy tasting room. (0261) 5244748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,Lujn de Cuyo. www.decero.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation withnice history. A five minute walk fromChacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. MonteLibano s/n, Lujn de Cuyo. www.

closdechacras.com.ar

Carmelo PattiMendozas most famous garagista.Carmelo Patti himself is often thereto show you around (in Spanish). Fav.Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from thebarrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin2614, Lujn de Cuyo.

Nieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old wineryin Chacras, Senetiner was foundedin 1888 and makes a great range of

wines and sparkling wines and offershorseback riding in the vineyards andasado style lunches. (261) 496 9099,Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Lujan deCuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

ChandonThe original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been makinggreat sparkling wines in Mendozasince the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968.R.P.15, Km 29, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo.www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentinas most famous femalewinemaker Susana Balbo is creatingsome rich and complex wines inthe heart of Agrelo. Fav. Wine: Ben

Marco. (0261) 498 9200. Cochabamba7801 Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

LagardeOwner of the oldest white wine inSouth America. Try the hand-craftedsparkling wine made from 100 yearold vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.Lujn de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding and first-

class wines. The pairings over lunchmake for an unforgettable culinaryexperience. (261) 5537164 .R.N.7, Km1059, Agrelo, Lujn de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com

THE OVER 90S CLUB: MENDOZAS PREMIUM TASTING


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THE WINERY GUIDEAchaval FerrerModern boutique close to Mendozariverbed. Big concentrated wines.(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601,Perdriel, Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wallis a subterranean cross section ofthe actual vineyard clay, roots androcks. Fab restaurant. Fav Wine:Petit Verdot. (0261) 498 9400. RoqueSaenz Pea 3135, Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines.com

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned winery in

a beautiful setting. Try the jasminetinted ros amidst the pastoralsplendour of the owners expansivegarden.Anchorena y Terrada. (261) 424 6301.www.familiacassone.com.ar

MAIPU

TrapicheArgentinas biggest winery is a mixof old and new, traditional andindustrial, and has the old train

tracks leading up to it. (0261) 5207666. Mitre s/n. Coquimbito, Maip.www.trapiche.com.ar

FlichmanSteeped in history and tradition.Charming, pink-hued, colonial-stylebodega, set in the leafy vineyards ofsouthern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039.Munives 800, Barrancas, Maip.www.flichman.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rural

lanes of southern Maipu. The rooftopterrace overlooks the vineyard.(0261) 481 3501. Perito Moreno 572,Maip. www.tempusalba.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation.Attractive restaurant amidst thevines, famous for its asado-stylelunches and generous wine pourings.(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,Maip. www.familiazuccardi.com

LopezPopular, old-style winery with twomuseums on the wine. Restaurantoffers gourmet cuisine with apanoramic view. (0261) 497 6554.Ozamis 375, Gral Gutirrez, Maip.www.bodegaslopez.com.ar

Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum with invaluableantiques like cowhide wine pressesand buckets. Giant oak tanks stand inlarge, cavernous halls.(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros2625, Coquimbito, Maip. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

CecchinA family winery using organic andbiodynamic principles where youcan see the entire process from thebeautiful green vineyards to theminimal intervention winery.(261) 497 6707, MA Saez 626, Maipu,www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-ownedwinery offering personal tours andwell-honed wines. Surrounded byvineyards and olive trees.(0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maip www.carinaevinos.com

Cepas ElegidasMaking real vinos de autor, US bornBrennan Firth makes his limitedproduction wines in a small winery inMaipu. Exclusive and ultra high end

wines, a visit and tasting is with thewinemaker himself.To visit Cepas Elegidas, call Brennanon (0261) 467 1015.

Familia Di TommassoOfficially the second oldest winery inMendoza and still run by Argentinehands. Their charming and rusticrestaurant looks onto the vineyard,just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maip. www.familiaditommaso.com

AMP CavaPremium wines made from differentterroirs but all by renownedwinemaker Karim Mussi Saffie.Technical tastings and a closeproximity to the city make it arecommended visit.Gmez Adriano 3602. Coquimbito.Maip - (261) 4813201/4668048

VALLE DE UCO

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting roomlooks upon dramatic views ofvineyards against mountains.(02622) 423 226 Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km11, Gualtallary, Tupungato. www.andeluna.com

Finca La CeliaOne of the valleys oldest wineries.They conduct excellent tours andtastings. (02622) 451 010. Av. deCircunvalacion s/n, Eugenio Bustos,San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

La AzulSimple, small production winerywith not so simple Malbecs and asmall traditional restaurant. (02622)423 593.R.P 89 s/n. Agua Amarga,Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine,this ultra-concept winery includesa modern art gallery, lodge, and

chapel set high in the Andean valley.(02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n, Tunuyan.www.killkasalentein.com

Clos de los 7In the heart of gorgeous VistaFlores, you can visit premium Frenchowned wineries Monteviejo, Rolland,Diamandes and Cuvelier de los andesin one visit for tastings, horseriding,art and lunch. (0261) 156 687680.www.clos7.com.ar

O. FournierMost architecturally innovativewinery with rich, concentrated wines.Excellent lunches in the modernistvisitor center. (02622) 451 088. LosIndios s/n, La Consulta, San Carlos.www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, partof the exciting Vines of Mendozaproject. This is a modern winery ina stunning setting. 0261-156317105/0261-153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n),Tunuyn. www.gimenezriili.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some greatwhite wines, a unique stony roof andthey breed their own trout which isserved in the charming restaurant.(0261) 156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km30), San Jose, Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

SAN MARTIN

Familia AntoniettiA family winery in San Martin whereyou can have a tour with the owners,try some of their sparkling wines andstay for a homecooked lunch. (0261)4390964/155688905. Pizarro s/nesq. Zalazar, Chapanay, San Martn.


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INSIDE MENDOZA CITYThe list below has some great bars but if youre looking tobrowse, head to Aristides Villanueva Avenue, the nightlife stripof Mendoza. Its a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simplyreferred to as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants

and shops cram together from Belgrano to San Martin Park toprovide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye beforea night out because the clubs dont even get started until 2am,and call a taxi because they are all located out of the city inChacras or El Challao.

THE VINES OF MENDOZAAs the first and only true tasting room in South America, TheVines of Mendoza offers the broadest selection of premiumboutique wines from Argentina. Compare the wine notes withone of their tasting flights or choose a glass from the impressivelist of limited production wines. Chatting with their learnedbartenders and sipping fabulous flavours makes for a truly

enjoyable afternoon. Belgrano 1194, Tel. 261 438-1031. Mon-Sat, 3pm-10pm www.vinesofmendoza.com

BELIEVE IRISH PUBOne of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter and highstools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chat and a smile withthe crowd; which is most likely a factor in its notable popularityamong expats and travelers. On the menu is a great collectionof draught beers, bottled beers (try the Warsteiner) andsurprisingly decent pub grub. TV screens hang in every cornerairing hit music-video montages or football games. Mondaynight is International night and for their packed events DJs rockthe house. Colon and Espaa 241. Tel. 261-429-5567.

www.believeirishpub.com.ar

BARSANTARES BARAristides street would not be very complete without its ownmicro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneer inthis respect with bars located across the country since beforeit became trendy to brew your own grog. Its long bar displays

tempting casks of great quality beers such as Scottish ale andIrish stout. This expansive bar packs them in at night and servesdecent pub grub too. Antares Bar. Aristides 153.

EL MERCADITOAristides still remains the busiest night spot in town and thisresto-bar has to be one of the coolest in town. El Mercaditois run by three friends and it lets the good times roll withhealthy meals including big salads, which are a rarity here antioxidant juices, decent brekkie, fresh cocktails and a topmusic mix. Spend an evening here and youll hear a few beatsfrom across the pond and leave with a light stomach and a fewstars brightening up your vision.El Mercadito, Aristides 521.

VELVETThis hip new club and bar is located 15mins away from Mendozain Chacras de Coria. Boasting good cocktails and great music,spread over a lounge bar and downstairs club room, this is thebest ticket in town for good times on a Friday and Saturday night.Mision Alfoz, Viamonte 4961, Chacras de Coria (261) 467 433.

BLACK SHEEPJust off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-stylesports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar food like nachos,homemade burgers and hot and spicy chicken wings. Whileespecially popular during sports matches, The Black Sheep is oneof the few bars to stay open everyday from 12 till 4am so you can

grab a pint whenever you like! Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.


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Theres a sign outside a Mendoza pizza store declaring FreeDelibery that never fails to make me smile. In fact manyrestaurants are blissfully unaware of the entertainment

value in their signs and menus. It is common to see diningtourists chuckling and it is not because their water of gasis carbonated with the laughing kind. They are marvelingat the culinary possibilities of padded breast with leeksauce or mini of pig. They are trying to fathom which ismore appetizing: salad with mixed weeds or anti-clericalfried popes.

Many descriptions have a surreal literary quality. Forexample; language to the vinaigrette is a salad that talksto you. When I once asked for the return of the rabbit, thewaiter told me it wasnt due back until midnight. A chop

boy is a karate kid who serves beer. A muffled hake is anobstreperous fish restrained. Green salad with somethingelse is just, well, wonderfully vague.

Our mirth is usually followed with scorn and a misplacedsense of superiority. We wonder why this high-endrestaurant cannot afford a proper translation and save usthe displeasure of eating Bambi-like deer instead of muchmore palatable venison. Pig induces indigestion. Pork ismuch more delicious but which is more honest? Sheep isjust too woolly. Lamb is delectable. Raw ham to the knifesounds murderous but isnt all meat just that murderous.It is quite ironic but it seems a mistranslated menu can be

closer to the truth than our coded niceties. It is enoughto make you turn vegetarian. But hold on there. This isArgentina and the alternative salad eaten of field soundsway to herbivorous. Ill have a bife de chorizo please.

Do you have any article ideas, observations or anecdotes

about wine, Mendoza, South America or travel in general?

Wine Republic is looking for writers, photographers,

cartoonists and poets anybody with a creative bent that

would like to contribute to our magazine. We pay in wine!

Please email Charlie at [email protected]

SOMETHING

ON THE SIDEBy Charlie OMalley


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USEFUL INFORMATIONAIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINEOrdinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at leastU$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most winestores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266.CRIMEBe alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPUThe mosteconomical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)where youll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount

as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. Recommended wineries: Rutini,Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso and certainly Carinae. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBSIn most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buyseveral drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your own toilet paper.Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before 2am.MENDOZA EXPATS CLUBAn organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSEREnglish speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047.CHANGING DOLLARS- Cambio, cambio shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place togo if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting ripped off check thecurrent rate of the dolr informal on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.


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