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WineBookPrivate Sommelier

544Madeira

White Wines Portugal - Madeira

543Jerez - Xeres - Sherry

White Wines Spain - Sherry

538Porto

Red Wines Portugal - Port

537Roussillon

Red Wines France - Sweet

536Rhone Valley

535Loire

525Bordeaux (Sauternes)

523Bordeaux (Barsac)

519Alsace

White Wines France - Sweet

510California

Red Wines USA

501Rueda and Duero

490Rioja

489Navarra

488Murcia

487Galicia

486Comunidad Valenciano

481Catalonia

480Castilla and Leon

Red Wines Spain

479Stellenbosch

Red Wines South Africa

478Veneto

475Umbria

468Toscana (Tuscany)

467Sicilia (Sicily)

466Piemonte (Piedmont)

465Friuli - Venezia - Giulia

464Campania

Red Wines Italy

462Southwest

461Roussillon

432Rhone Valley

431Provence

430Languedoc-Roussillon

423Languedoc

422Bourgogne (Cotes de Nuits / other)

321Bourgogne (Cotes de Nuits / communes)

312Bourgogne (Cotes de Beaune / communes)

311Bourgogne (Cote Chalonnaise)

277Bordeaux (Saint Julien)

263Bordeaux (Saint Estephe)

191Bordeaux (Pauillac)

190Bordeaux (Moulis)

174Bordeaux (Margaux)

112Bordeaux (Libournais)

106Bordeaux (Haut Medoc)

82Bordeaux (Graves)

81Bordeaux (Cotes-wines)

80Bordeaux (Bordeaux Superieur)

79Bordeaux

Red Wines France

77South Australia

Red Wines Australia

76Mendoza

Red Wines Argentina

74California

White Wines USA


White Wines Italy

72Rheingau

71Mosel - Saar - Ruwer

White Wines Germany

70Southwest

65Rhone Valley

63Loire

61Bourgogne (Maconnais)


18Bourgogne (Chablis)

16Bordeaux (Graves)

15Bordeaux

12Alsace

White Wines France

11Champagne

Rose Wines France - Sparkling

10Lombardia (Lombardy)

White Wines Italy - Sparkling

5Champagne

White Wines France - Sparkling

Index

544Madeira




538Porto


537Roussillon


536Rhone Valley

535Loire



519Alsace


510California

Red Wines USA

501Rueda and Duero

490Rioja

489Navarra

488Murcia

487Galicia


481Catalonia


Red Wines Spain

479Stellenbosch


478Veneto

475Umbria


467Sicilia (Sicily)



464Campania

Red Wines Italy

462Southwest

461Roussillon

432Rhone Valley

431Provence


423Languedoc












82Bordeaux (Graves)



79Bordeaux

Red Wines France

77South Australia

Red Wines Australia

76Mendoza

Red Wines Argentina

74California

White Wines USA


White Wines Italy

72Rheingau


White Wines Germany

70Southwest

65Rhone Valley

63Loire




16Bordeaux (Graves)

15Bordeaux

12Alsace

White Wines France

11Champagne




5Champagne


Index

544Madeira




538Porto


537Roussillon


536Rhone Valley

535Loire



519Alsace


510California

Red Wines USA

501Rueda and Duero

490Rioja

489Navarra

488Murcia

487Galicia


481Catalonia


Red Wines Spain

479Stellenbosch


478Veneto

475Umbria


467Sicilia (Sicily)



464Campania

Red Wines Italy

462Southwest

461Roussillon

432Rhone Valley

431Provence


423Languedoc












82Bordeaux (Graves)



79Bordeaux

Red Wines France

77South Australia

Red Wines Australia

76Mendoza

Red Wines Argentina

74California

White Wines USA


White Wines Italy

72Rheingau


White Wines Germany

70Southwest

65Rhone Valley

63Loire




16Bordeaux (Graves)

15Bordeaux

12Alsace

White Wines France

11Champagne




5Champagne


Index

White Wines France - SparklingChampagne

Barnaut-Champagne Edmond / Champagne Blanc de NoirsN.V.

17/2001 jan 2007La Revue du Vin de France (LARVF)


91/10001 okt 2007Burghound (BH)

Producer note: (Vintage '59 Imports, www.vintage59.com, Washington, DC and SDG Selections, Durham, NC).Tasting note: A beautifully elegant and notably complex if restrained nose features aromas with some age yet theoverall impression remains fresh and airy and this vibrancy also characterizes the delicious flavors that don't quitehave the depth of the nose and are supported by relatively low effervescence yet good if not special length. The noseis really lovely but the rest of the wine doesn't quite remain at the same level.

91/10031 dec 2008eRobertParker.com (WA), Antonio Galloni

The NV Brut Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru reveals good balance and delineation in an accessible, mid-weight style.The attractive finish is long, sweet and layered. Disgorged: April, 2008. These two wines from Barnaut are lessimpressive than the bottlings I tasted last year, although the disgorgements turned out to be only a few months apartin both cases. Of course, because Barnaut does not provide disgorgement dates on their labels it is impossible forme or you to know without asking if these are, indeed, different wines from those I reviewed last year, which simplypoints out the utter absurdity Champagne producers ask their customers to tolerate with non-vintage wines thatdont include disgorgement dates.

2/301 jan 2005Hachette (HA)

tabli Bouzy, grand cru de la Montagne de Reims, Philippe Second exploite 15,5 ha de vignes. Depuis dessicles, ce prestigieux terroir est presque entirement ddi au pinot noir. Un cpage l'origine de cette cuvesouvent mentionne et mariant cette anne les rcoltes 2007 et 2006 50 % de vins de rserve. C'est un champagnefrais et quilibr aux armes d'agrumes, qui pourra tre servi ds l'apritif. La Grande Rserve grand cru assembledeux tiers de pinot noir et un tiers de chardonnay des vendanges 2006 et 2005 avec des vins de rserve (50 %). Elleobtient elle aussi une toile pour son nez fin et floral et pour sa bouche ample au dosage judicieux. Cit, le Rosauthentique grand cru provient 90 % d'une macration de pinot noir. De couleur cerise, puissant et vineux, il estquilibr et rveill par la prsence de 10 % de chardonnay dans l'assemblage. (RM)

91/10001 dec 2009International Wine Cellar (IWC)

(all Bouzy pinot noir): Vivid gold. Ripe pear and nectarine on the nose, but complicated by floral and musky herbnuances. A pliant, smooth texture, with deep, hefty orchard and pit fruit flavors and slow-building smokiness. Thepersistent finish repeats the pear note and leaves notes of redcurrant and floral honey behind. This Champagnewould stand up to rich, buttery dishes or even strong cheeses.


(all Bouzy pinot noir): Vivid gold. Ripe pear and nectarine on the nose, but complicated by floral and musky herbnuances. A pliant, smooth texture, with deep, hefty orchard and pit fruit flavors and slow-building smokiness. Thepersistent finish repeats the pear note and leaves notes of redcurrant and floral honey behind. This Champagnewould stand up to rich, buttery dishes or even strong cheeses.

26cl75N.V.Barnaut-Champagne Edmond/Champagne Blanc de Noirs

O

Bollinger / Champagne Millesime Grande Annee1996

90cl751996Bollinger / Champagne Millesime Grande AnneeB

Bollinger / Champagne Millesime Grande Annee1996

198cl150B

Published by 90pluswines.com 5

http://www.90pluswines.com

White Wines France - SparklingBollinger / Champagne Millesime Grande Annee1996

93/10001 dec 2003International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Medium yellow color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, pine needles, toffee and nuts. Dense, full and quite dry, withpenetrating fruit, hints of oak spice, and powerful acids that have not yet come into harmony. But this extremelyimpressive young Bollinger vintage shifts into a higher gear on the back end, showing even more flavor intensitythan it does in the middle palate. This boasts the near-freakish combination of high ripeness and high acidity sharedby the best '96s. Builds and builds on the back; one must practically scrape this off the palate. A worthy follow-up tothe '95, and likely to develop in bottle for a couple of decades. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY)


Fonde en 1829, la grande maison d'A est l'une des rares affaires familiales avoir conserv son indpendance.Succdant la Grande Anne 95, voici le 96. Comme toujours chez Bollinger, l'assemblage privilgie le pinot noir(70 % pour 30 % de chardonnay); seize crus sont entrs dans sa composition (75 % de grands crus, 25 % de 1erscrus). Le champagne a mri en cave sous bouchage lige, ce qui assure une meilleure protection contre l'oxydation.De fait, ce champagne ne montre aucun signe d'volution. Le millsime lui a lgu une touche de nervosit et de lapuissance. Sa complexit et sa persistance lui valent un coup de coeur. Une toile pour le Spcial Cuve (30 38 ) qui, comme son nom ne l'indique pas, est la cuve classique de la maison. Issue de 60 % de pinot noir et de 15 %de meunier complts par le chardonnay, elle mle au nez la fleur blanche, les fruits blancs et jaunes. Son quilibretudi en fait un modle de classicisme au sein des bruts sans anne. Signalons enfin que le RD 90, coup de coeurde l'dition 2003, est toujours en vente. (NM)

18/2029 okt 2004Jancis Robinson (JR)

Creamy, evolved flattering nose. Sweet and rich and lemon cream palate - not especially champagne-like in fact.Clean, brisk finish. Good, racy finish.

95/10015 mei 2003Wine Spectator (WS)

This is full-bodied, with berry, bread dough and citrus aromas and flavors unfolding on the palate. It's firm andmuscular, with depth, intensity and a long, lingering aftertaste. A Champagne for the table. Drink now through2015. 400 cases imported. -BS

93/10015 nov 2004Wine Spectator (WS)

This is full-bodied, with berry, bread dough and citrus aromas and flavors unfolding on the palate. It's firm andmuscular, with depth, intensity and a long, lingering aftertaste. A Champagne for the table. Drink now through2015. 400 cases imported. -BS

93/10015 dec 2003WineEnthusiast (WE)

Blockbuster aromas of honey and toast, ripe apples and citrus are complex from the first pour and develop evenmore complexity with air, turning meatier and more savory. Creamy and smooth in the mouth, with cascadingflavors of buttered nuts and lush fruit, all balanced by great acidity and length. Drink now or hold another 5 years.

94/10001 dec 2004WineEnthusiast (WE)

Blockbuster aromas of honey and toast, ripe apples and citrus are complex from the first pour and develop evenmore complexity with air, turning meatier and more savory. Creamy and smooth in the mouth, with cascadingflavors of buttered nuts and lush fruit, all balanced by great acidity and length. Drink now or hold another 5 years.

494cl300B

Bollinger / Champagne Millesime RD1990

171cl751990Bollinger / Champagne Millesime RDB



White Wines France - SparklingBollinger / Champagne Millesime RD1990

93/10001 dec 2002International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Pale copper color. Classic Bollinger aromas of controlled oxidation: oatmeal, walnut, sauteed porcini, toffee,beeswax and earth. Rich, leesy and powerful, with flavors of butter, toasted almond and nuts. Densely packed andharmonious. More youthful in the mouth than the nose suggests. Very long and strong on the aftertaste. (Dreyfus-Ashby, New York, NY)

97/10030 nov 2004Wine Spectator (WS), Bruce Sanderson

A full-bodied, powerful Champagne featuring biscuit and ginger aromas and flavors, picking up a grilled nutcharacter on the finish. Very firmly structured and dry, yet with the flavor intensity and fine texture to match, this isa tour de force. Endless finish. Drink now through 2020.



Fonde en 1829, cette clbre maison d'A a gard son caractre familial. Elle dispose de 160 ha de vignes. Sonchampagne RD est une coteuse cuve spciale millsime qui, mrie de longues annes en cave, a t rcemmentdgorge (RD), ce qui permet de maintenir sa fracheur. L'assemblage comprend environ 69 % de pinot noir pour31 % de chardonnay, et les vins ont ferment en ft. Ce 90 est un grand champagne de caractre, miell, brioch,puissant, quilibr et long. Pour amateur averti. Cuve de prestige millsime, la Grande Anne 96 (46 76 ) estvinifie aussi dans le bois. L'assemblage des cpages est presque identique au prcdent. Ses riches armes florauxet sa bouche complexe, aussi complexe que fine, lui valent aussi deux toiles. (NM)

98/10031 dec 2002eRobertParker.com (WA)

385cl150B

Lassalle-J / Champagne Brut PreferenceN.V.

28cl75N.V.Lassalle-J / Champagne Brut PreferenceB



White Wines France - SparklingLassalle-J / Champagne Brut PreferenceN.V.

93/10031 okt 2001Wine Spectator (WS)

A firm bubbly, evoking mature notes of toast and grilled nuts, along with graphite and candied fruit. Its complexityis matched by a broad-shouldered frame. Good length too. Drink now through 2007. -BS



90/10015 nov 2004Wine Spectator (WS)



Cre par Jules Lassalle dans les annes 1940, cette exploitation situe dans la Montagne de Reims s'tend sur plusde 11 ha. Trois quarts de noirs (dont 60 % de meunier) sont assembls au chardonnay dans ce brut 1er cru n desrcoltes de 1997 et de 1998. Intense, mr, vineux au nez comme en bouche, quilibr et long, c'est un excellentchampagne classique qui pourra paratre table. Une toile pour le blanc de blancs 1er cru 99 (23 30 ) au nezde poire mielle, franc l'attaque, persistant et prometteur. Une toile aussi pour le ros 1er cru provenant de larcolte de 1998: un champagne qui fait la part belle aux pinots (90 %, dont 70 % de pinot noir), apprci pour sasouplesse et sa persistance. (RM)


Producer note: A very traditional house that consistently makes impressive wines. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant,www.kermitlynch.com, Berkeley, CA). Tasting note: Here the character of the nose is strikingly similar to that of theCachet but with more obvious age that introduces moderately effervescent and round flavors that offer excellentvolume and solid punch on the delicious, complex and persistent finish. Despite the additional age that adds anextra dimension, I slightly prefer the vibrancy and intensity of the Cachet. Still, there is really very little to choosefrom between the two and either offer excellent quality.

91/10001 nov 2008International Wine Cellar (IWC)

(disgorged May 10, 2010): Light yellow. A complex bouquet displays singed orange, fresh and dried apricot, driedflowers and toffee, with a whisper of smoky lees. Fat and silky but fairly dry, with harmonious acidity giving shapeand lift to the exotic fruit and brown butter flavors. This tactile wine possesses very good concentration and finisheswith a bright edge of acidity. Note that this is no longer labeled "Imperial Preference" as it had been since at leastthe mid-1980s.


(disgorged May 10, 2010): Light yellow. A complex bouquet displays singed orange, fresh and dried apricot, driedflowers and toffee, with a whisper of smoky lees. Fat and silky but fairly dry, with harmonious acidity giving shapeand lift to the exotic fruit and brown butter flavors. This tactile wine possesses very good concentration and finisheswith a bright edge of acidity. Note that this is no longer labeled "Imperial Preference" as it had been since at leastthe mid-1980s.


The NV Brut Premier Cru Preference is a touch leaner and more focused than the Cachet Or. The fruit tendstowards high-toned white peaches intermingled with floral overtones that add further shades of nuance. This showsterrific length on the palate, with a clean, bracing finish peppered with hints of smoke and minerals. This is LotL.03, disgorged May 10, 2010.

56cl150L

Lassalle-J / Champagne Millesime Brut Blanc de Blancs1999

28cl751999Lassalle-J/Champagne Millesime Brut Blanc de Blancs

L

Lassalle-J / Champagne Millesime Brut Blanc de Blancs1999

56cl150L




Lassalle-J / Champagne Millesime Brut Special Club1997

91/10001 nov 2005International Wine Cellar (IWC)

Brassy gold color. Exotic and powerful scents of marzipan, chestnut honey, toffee apple and cappuccino are seriousand brooding; I have a hard time imaging this as an aperitif. Dense and thick on the palate, showing rich apple pieand plum flavors which should pair well with the richest shellfish dishes or anything finished with brandy. This hasserious hang time on the nutty, strongly praline back end.

47cl751997Lassalle-J/Champagne Millesime Brut Special Club

L

Lassalle-J / Champagne Millesime Cuvee Angeline Brut1996

90/10001 dec 2005International Wine Cellar (IWC), Josh Raynolds

Medium yellow. Smoky orange- and molasses-laced aromas, with hints of toffee and ginger. Quite dense and broad,with rich flavors of toffee apple and roasted pear accented by a note of candied ginger. I'd have picked this powerfulChampagne for a '95, not a '96. Should do nicely alongside rich fish or mollusk courses.

39cl751996Lassalle-J/Champagne Millesime Cuvee Angeline Brut

L

Lassalle-J / Champagne Millesime Cuvee Reserve Brut1996

32cl3001996Lassalle-J/Champagne Millesime Cuvee Reserve Brut

L



White Wines Italy - SparklingLombardia (Lombardy)

Ca'del Bosco / Franciacorta1992

2/328 apr 2011GamberroRosso (GR)

No tasting note given.

14cl751992Ca'del Bosco / FranciacortaL



Rose Wines France - SparklingChampagne

Barnaut-Champagne Edmond / Champagne Rose Cuvee AuthentiqueN.V.


Producer note: (Vintage '59 Imports, www.vintage59.com, Washington, DC and SDG Selections, Durham, NC).Tasting note: This is a relatively deeply tinted ros with a fruity yet elegant nose that leads to rich, intense anddetailed flavors supported by a high level of effervescence and a tight, linear and precise finish that also sports atouch of backend austerity. However, unlike the Brut Extra, here there is excellent depth and the persistence isimpressive. Lovely and delicious and this is a ros that is fashioned in an intensely fruity style that could be drunknow or aged for 3 to 5 years to good effect.


(all Bouzy fruit, 85% pinot noir and 15% chardonnay): Dark pink. Powerful scents of redcurrant, blood orange andtoasty lees, with a sexy floral overtone. Pliant red fruit and citrus flavors pack a serious punch and show unlikelyvivacity, with a slow-building smoky quality adding seriousness. Finishes with solid grip and echoes of red fruit andsmoky minerality. (Vintage '59 Imports, Washington, D.C.)

16/2014 mei 2011Bettane et Desseauve (BETD)

Rose soutenu, nez floral et fruit un peu moins blouissant que l'an dernier, mais vrai vin de gastronomie, avec lefort caractre du terroir. Bon dosage.

23cl75N.V.Barnaut-Champagne Edmond/Champagne Rose Cuvee Authentique

C



White Wines FranceAlsace

Domaine Trimbach / Riesling Cuvee Frederick Emile1990

91/10015 feb 1992Wine Spectator (WS)

Great concentration, balance and intensity. From the fragrant mineral, floral and pine notes to the intense flavors ofripe apricots, melons, limes and herbs, this rich-textured wine defines the classic style of Alsace Riesling. Lovelynow, but it's just beginning to evolve and should improve for many years in the bottle. 3,000 cases made. -

96/10031 aug 1995Wine Spectator (WS)

Great concentration, balance and intensity. From the fragrant mineral, floral and pine notes to the intense flavors ofripe apricots, melons, limes and herbs, this rich-textured wine defines the classic style of Alsace Riesling. Lovelynow, but it's just beginning to evolve and should improve for many years in the bottle. 3,000 cases made. -

147cl751990Domaine Trimbach/Riesling Cuvee Frederick Emile

B

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Chardonnay Clos Windsbuhl1994

17cl751994Domaine Zind Humbrecht/Chardonnay Clos Windsbuhl

D

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl1993


Very distinctive and attractive. Rich in fruit, creamy in texture, full-bodied but lively in balance. It has the classicrose petal and grapefruit aromas and flavors and a nicely lingering finish. 400 cases made. -

95/10030 jun 1995eRobertParker.com (WA)

The 1993 Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl served at the tasting was showing all the signs of a Gewurztraminer onits last legs. Its once fruit-dominated aromas and flavor profile (I've tasted it many times over the years) have givenway to petrol/chemical scents and a floral/mineral, light-bodied character. What was once a rich, well-balanced,harmonious wine is now beginning to display the disjointedness that comes with too much bottle age. It remains avery good wine but will soon fade away. Drink up.

28cl751993Domaine Zind Humbrecht/Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl

D

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl1994



98/10031 mrt 2004eRobertParker.com (WA)


78cl37,51994Domaine Zind Humbrecht/Gewurztraminer Clos Windsbuhl

D

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Gewurztraminer Hengst1989

35cl751989Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Gewurztraminer HengstD



White Wines FranceDomaine Zind Humbrecht / Gewurztraminer Hengst1993


There is no evidence of botrytis in the full-bodied, intense, awesomely concentrated 1993 Gewurztraminer Hengst.It offers scents of minerals, roses, and tropical fruits, followed by great precision in the layers of flavor that cascadeacross the palate. This wine delivers a mouthfilling, decadent style of dry, frightfully rich and intenseGewurztraminer. It should last for 15+ years. Wow! Zind-Humbrecht's Gewurztraminers are all light to mediumgold-colored, with various degrees of botrytis in evidence. All were fermented totally dry. These are flamboyant,bold, alcoholic (ranging from 13.5% to 15%) wines that are sure to provide a delicious wake-up call to anyone whomay be falling asleep at the table. The 1992 and 1993 wines reviewed in this issue are the wines of a genius.Importers: Wine Markets International, Inc., Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant,Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 525-1524


Heady aromas of rose petal, earth and grapefruit mark this as a classic Gewrztraminer. Bold flavors, full body andlingering fruit on the finish. It's assertive, concentrated and dry. Tempting now, but should improve through 1997.

35cl751993Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Gewurztraminer HengstD

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal1995


I tasted six dry Tokay-Pinot Gris offerings from Zind-Humbrecht and one Vendange Tardive. As the enthusiasticnotes that follow reveal, it is a toss up as to whether Riesling or Pinot Gris was the more successful varietal in 1995.The slightly sweet 1995 Tokay-Pinot Gris Clos Jebsal reveals a honeyed botrytis character. The wine is massive,with full body, unreal extract and fruit, as well as exceptional purity and equilibrium. The extract levels of ZH'sPinot Gris are high, yet the harmony among the wines' elements is impeccable. This wine would do wonders withsuch duck or goose liver dishes as foie gras. It should drink well for two decades. The Zind-Humbrecht 1995spossess approximately 10% higher acidity than the crisp, high acid 1994s, largely because September was a verycool month. There was no need to chaptalize any of the ZH wines, and extremely long fermentations resulted in highalcohol. The reviews in this segment are from a memorable tasting held in April, 1997. Importers: Wine MarketsInternational, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524

56cl751995Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Pinot Gris Clos JebsalD

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Pinot Gris Clos Saint Urbain Rangen1992

95/10030 apr 1994eRobertParker.com (WA)

The reticent bouquet of the Tokay-Pinot Gris Rangen Clos Saint-Urbain offers huge, honeyed, cherry, smoky, nutty,buttery aromas that are just beginning to blossom. Superbly rich, with a chewy, full-bodied texture, this nearlyviscous, super-concentrated wine should drink well for 10-15 years. In the hands of the top Alsatian producers,Tokay-Pinot Gris is a dry, full-bodied wine offering a huge perfume of buttery, creamy, smoky fruit, unctuous,intense flavors, and awesome power and palate presence. It is generally a richer, fuller wine than even the largest-scaled grand cru white burgundies. It gets my nod as the Montrachet of Alsace. When made by a producer whoemphasizes unmanipulative winemaking and extremely low yields, Tokay-Pinot Gris can reach unprecedentedheights of richness and complexity. The wines of Zind-Humbrecht are imported by Wine Markets International(Mitchell Nathanson), Woodbury, NY and by Kermit Lynch Wine Merchants, Berkeley, CA.

92/10015 sep 1994Wine Spectator (WS)

Sharp focus and outstanding character mark this luscious wine. It's deep in color and full-bodied, with pear, almondand hazelnut flavors and a firm, almost abrasive acidity that promises long life. Rich, and though very ripe the finishis dry. Great concentration; built for aging. -

98cl751992Domaine Zind Humbrecht/Pinot Gris Clos Saint Urbain Rangen

D



White Wines France



The 1994 Tokay-Pinot Gris Rangen Clos St.-Urbain was made from a mere 10 hectoliters per hectare, reached 15%natural alcohol, and it is slightly off-dry. The wine's light golden color is followed by a huge, still unformed nose ofbuttered fruit and spices. With terrific richness, awesome glycerin and extract levels, and a dense, amazingly well-delineated, full-bodied finish, this wine needs 4-5 years of bottle age, after which it should drink well for 20 years.With respect to the recently released wines, Olivier Humbrecht stated that he had never seen such intensely ripePinot Gris with such high levels of acidity. The importer for the Zind-Humbrecht wines for most of the UnitedStates is Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and for the state of California, KermitLynch Selections, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.


D



I tasted six dry Tokay-Pinot Gris offerings from Zind-Humbrecht and one Vendange Tardive. As the enthusiasticnotes that follow reveal, it is a toss up as to whether Riesling or Pinot Gris was the more successful varietal in 1995.No tasting note given. The Zind-Humbrecht 1995s possess approximately 10% higher acidity than the crisp, highacid 1994s, largely because September was a very cool month. There was no need to chaptalize any of the ZH wines,and extremely long fermentations resulted in high alcohol. The reviews in this segment are from a memorabletasting held in April, 1997. Importers: Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and KermitLynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524


An effusive white, full of ripe mango and passion fruit flavors, yet it's dry and spicy on the palate, with a firmstructure. Displays lovely balance and harmony, suggesting it will improve through 2000. -BS

3/528 apr 2011Decanter (DC)No tasting note given.


D

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Riesling Clos Hauserer1994


This powerful Riesling displays fabulous purity, full body, layers of quince and honeyed, exotic fruit flavors, alayered texture, and the tell-tale components of all the Z-H wines - purity and equilibrium. Usually one of the morebackward Z-H wines, the 1994 Clos Hauserer was singing at full volume when I tasted it. The 1994 Riesling ClosHauserer is from a vineyard with a southeastern exposure at the bottom of the grand cru Hengst vineyard. Themarl/limestone soil tends to ripen the grapes earlier, as well as lend itself to considerable botrytis formation. OlivierHumbrecht claims it will easily age for 15 years. Most of the Zind-Humbrecht 1994 Rieslings have two strikesagainst them ... microscopic quantities and lofty price tags. Yet lovers of this varietal are not likely to see a morecompelling cross section of Riesling than the offerings reviewed here. The importer for the Zind-Humbrecht winesfor most of the United States is Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and for the state ofCalifornia, Kermit Lynch Selections, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524.

37cl751994Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Riesling Clos HausererD

Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Riesling Clos Windsbuhl1994


A powerful wine, oozing orange, pineapple and honey flavors. Big-bodied and ripe, yet there's enough underlyingacidity to keep it fresh. Easy to like, but better alone than with food. -

36cl751994Domaine Zind Humbrecht / Riesling Clos WindsbuhlD



White Wines FranceBordeaux

Chateau d'Yquem / Bordeaux Blanc Ygrec d'Yquem1985

91/10031 jul 1993Wine Spectator (WS)

Very ripe, spicy and dramatic, this pours out Sauternes-like fig, honey, tobacco and spice box aromas and flavorsand finishes just off-dry and smooth. A delicious wine to drink now, and should continue to develop its idiosyncraticarray of flavors throu -

165cl751985Chateau d'Yquem / Bordeaux Blanc Ygrec d'YquemD



White Wines FranceBordeaux (Graves)

Chateau Pape Clement / Pessac Leognan Blanc1994

96/10031 mrt 1996Wine Spectator (WS)

Can a white get more harmonious than this? Sensational from start to finish, building slowly from the perfectlybalanced honey, citrus, earth and mineral complexity to an extended, long finish. It's all presented with aremarkably smooth mouth-feel. Great now, but better with cellaring until at least 1999. 600 cases made. -

90-92/10030 apr 1995eRobertParker.com (WA)

This 10% Muscadelle, 35% Sauvignon, and 55% Semillon blend is outstanding. The nose jumps from the glassoffering up copious scents of tropical fruits, honeyed figs, and smoke. It is rich, with superb purity and intensity.This medium-bodied, deliciously fruity, stylish white wine is hard to resist. It will keep for 10-15 years. Impressive!Last tasted 3/97.

91/10031 jan 1998eRobertParker.com (WA)

This 10% Muscadelle, 35% Sauvignon, and 55% Semillon blend is outstanding. The nose jumps from the glassoffering up copious scents of tropical fruits, honeyed figs, and smoke. It is rich, with superb purity and intensity.This medium-bodied, deliciously fruity, stylish white wine is hard to resist. It will keep for 10-15 years. Impressive!Last tasted 3/97.

82cl751994Chateau Pape Clement / Pessac Leognan BlancC

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte / Pessac Leognan Blanc1993


This property is pushing quality higher and higher and the estate's white wines are among the finest being producedin Graves. The 1993, made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc, offers a rich, honeyed, melony-scented nose withattractive notes of toasty new oak. The wine is fat and rich, with good underlying acidity and plenty of freshnessand vibrancy. It should drink well for 3-4 years. Last tasted 11/94

30cl751993Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte/Pessac Leognan Blanc

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Chateau de Fieuzal / Pessac Leognan Blanc1992

91/10028 feb 1994eRobertParker.com (WA)

The 1992 exhibits a big, creamy, rich nose of smoky new oak and ripe fruit, medium to full body, excellentconcentration, and a chewy finish. While it is not as well-delineated as some vintages, it offers a lusty mouthful ofFieuzal. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Fieuzal has been producing gorgeous dry Graves since 1985. Both the1991 and 1992 are successes.

25cl751992Chateau de Fieuzal / Pessac Leognan BlancC

Chateau de Fieuzal / Pessac Leognan Blanc1993


Polished and racy, highlighting plenty of lemon, grass and gooseberry aromas and character, full body, greatacidity and a very long finish. The flavors last for minutes on the palate. Try after 1996. -


The rich, powerful 1993 offers authoritative flavors presented in a full-bodied style that is crammed with honeyed,waxy, melony fruit and spicy new oak. The wine possesses a chewy, thick texture, and a long, crisp finish. Fieuzal'swhite wines are made of 50% Semillon and 50% Sauvignon Blanc and are vinified and aged in 100% new oak. Thisoffering should last for at least 10-15 years. Last tasted 1/97




White Wines FranceChateau de Fieuzal / Pessac Leognan Blanc1994

91-93/10030 apr 1995eRobertParker.com (WA)

This is a terrific example from this estate that usually makes one of the best white wines of Graves. The citrusy,honeyed, smoky nose soars from the glass. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with exquisite concentration, superbfocus, and a fresh, long, rich, structured finish. This terrific Fieuzal should age well for 15+ years. Last tasted 3/97


This is a terrific example from this estate that usually makes one of the best white wines of Graves. The citrusy,honeyed, smoky nose soars from the glass. The wine is medium to full-bodied, with exquisite concentration, superbfocus, and a fresh, long, rich, structured finish. This terrific Fieuzal should age well for 15+ years. Last tasted 3/97


Chateau La Louviere / Pessac Leognan Blanc1993


This estate is making superlative red and white wines. It is, therefore, not surprising that the 1993 is a superb,medium to full-bodied, smoky, honeyed wine with layers of flavor, excellent purity, and the potential to last for up toa decade. By the way, if you run across any of the rich 1992, it is also a knock-out example of dry white Gravesthat is bursting with melony, honeyed, smoky, and herb-scented fruit. It does not possess the complexity or length ofthe 1993, but it is a wine I have consistently rated between 87 and 89.


So fresh it's like a barrel sample: full of freshly crushed fruit aromas and intense, grassy pear and vanilla flavors.This is medium-bodied, with firm acidity and a long finish. Drink now.

23cl751993Chateau La Louviere / Pessac Leognan BlancC

Domaine de Chevalier / Pessac Leognan Blanc1992


One of two terrific efforts from the Domaine de Chevalier, the 1992 exhibits a tight but promising nose of rich,melony, waxy, honeyed fruit complemented nicely by smoky new oak. Well-structured and concentrated, with layersof fruit and an inner-core of mineral, steely fruit, this formidably endowed, backward wine will need 7-12 years toopen; it should last 25 or more years. Impressive!


Better than a year ago. Full-throttled, toasty, barrel-fermented style, fresh and elegant, boasting terrific mineral andhoney flavors. Polished yet powerful. Drink or hold. -

58cl751992Domaine de Chevalier / Pessac Leognan BlancC



White Wines FranceBourgogne (Chablis)

Brocard-Jean-Marc / Chablis Les Clos1996


Supple, dense, opulent and full-bodied, this balanced Chablis shows loads of citrus and fruit character that's nicelysoftened by oak and honey accents. Long, satisfying and palate-cleansing finish. Served at room temperature, it'sapproachable now, but will improve with cellaring. Drink now through 2005. 1,250 cases made. -PM


Curiously, a bottle tasted just after release was simple to the point of boring without the firm acid spine onenormally associates with the '96 vintage. The bottle reviewed here however was everything one would expect with itsmaturing and highly complex nose featuring background notes of sous bois and mushroom to accompany the whiteflower aromas that dissolve into sweet, round, intense and pure flavors, all wrapped in a racy, detailed andintensely mineral finish. This is still on the way up and for my tastes, I would hold off for another few years. Notethat this advice assumes that the reader enjoys fully mature Chablis aromas; otherwise, I would suggest drinkingthis now.

3/528 apr 2011Decanter (DC)


42cl751996Brocard-Jean-Marc / Chablis Les ClosD

Domaine Droin-Jean-Paul / Chablis Grand Cru Valmur1996


This grand cru was fermented and aged in a blend of old and new barrels. The Chablis Valmur, accuratelydescribed by Droin as "la classe", displays smoke, stones and a touch of honey on the nose. It is a silky, massivelyintense, medium-to-full-bodied, and extremely refined wine packed with liquid minerals, honeysuckle, chalk dust,and traces of sweet oak. It should be at its best between 2000 and 2008. Importer: Eric Solomon's EuropeanCellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949.


Thick and ultraopulent, full in body, quite muscular and toasty from much oak. Despite the wonderful midpalate andmineral-laden character, this a bit hard now, built for the long-term. Loads of fruit and acidity on themouthpuckering finish. Best after 2005. -PM

47cl751996Domaine Droin-Jean-Paul/Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

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Domaine Droin-Jean-Paul / Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir1996


This grand cru was fermented and aged in a blend of old and new barrels. The Chablis Vaudesir exhibits floral andcardamon spice scents and a masculine, medium-to-full-bodied, lively, highly-concentrated and intense, crisp, andwhite flower, mineral and flint-filled flavor profile. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2008. Importer: Eric Solomon'sEuropean Cellars, New York, NY; tel (212) 924-4949.


Classy and racy, this has almost all you can expect in a great Chardonnay. Blends finesse and opulence, with subtleflavors that grow on you, showing oak nuances, ripe fruit, honey and lime. Fabulous from the start, with a mostsensual and caressing finish. Drink now through 2005. -PM

92/10001 okt 1998International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Pineapple, grapefruit, lemon and a hint of spice on the nose. Spicy and intensely flavored; juicy and fresh. This isalso a big, fleshy wine but here the harmonious acids contribute vibrancy and precision. Lovely balance and length.

52cl751996Domaine Droin-Jean-Paul/Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir

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White Wines FranceVerget / Chablis Grand Cru Bougros1998

90-92/10001 sep 1999International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Superripe, slightly blurry aromas of apricot and soft citrus fruits; hint of botrytis. Fat, thick and honeyed, but lacksthe verve of Chablis. Mouthfilling chardonnay, but I'd never pick this blind as Chablis. This, too, was fresher a yearago.


When Chablis is a Formula 1 racing car. This issleek, with buttery, caramel aromas and driedfruit and lime flavors.Full-bodied and toasty,with much complexity, turning up the power on oneof the most intense finishes of any whiteBurgundyfrom the '98 vintage. Stunning effort fromJean-Marie Guffens. Best from 2003 through 2010. -PM

64cl751998Verget / Chablis Grand Cru BougrosD

Verget / Chablis Grand Cru Valmur1996

93-96/10028 feb 1998eRobertParker.com (WA)

Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. The 1996 Chablis Valmur, while not quite as mind-blowing asthe 1995, is a stunning wine. Rich aromas of liquid minerals, white flowers, red berries and sweet oak notes arefollowed by a broad, full-bodied, and supremely complex character. Silky-textured, deep, and broad, this steelyoffering is filled with flint, metals, minerals, and dried herbs. As with its older brother, the 1995, this Valmur has anunbelievably long, precise, and pure finish. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012. The rating, with the range of scores inparentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November,Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293),importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (ParisFax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.


A beautiful Chablis, atypical because of the toasted oak, but the wood isn't out of proportion to the opulent texture,the marvelous lime-honey flavors and the excellent acidity. Full-bodied and balanced, it's silky and stays clean, pureand vibrant on the long, deliciously lively finish. Still, expect heavy-duty, full-throttle Burgundian treatment in thisheavily toasted Chardonnay. Drink now through 2010. 500 cases made. -PM

92+?/10001 okt 1998International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Fresher aromas of mint, lime, pear blossom and wet stone. Penetrating flavors of lime skin, vanilla and pearblossom, with an intense core of spice and vibrant framing acidity. Very concentrated and tactile. Grew more andmore vibrant in the open bottle. Just 5% new oak used for this wine. Guffens singles out Valmur and La Romanee ashis two most consistent wines over the 1994-1997 period.

78cl751996Verget / Chablis Grand Cru ValmurV

Brocard-Jean-Marc / Chablis Premier Cru Montmains1996

16/2001 jan 2001La Revue du Vin de France (LARVF)Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis Premier Cru Montmains 1996

17cl751996Brocard-Jean-Marc/Chablis Premier Cru Montmains

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White Wines FranceDauvissat-Rene & Vincent / Chablis La Forest1996


For fans of ultraminerally Chablis. This full-bodied beauty reveals almost nothing on the nose except a sense ofclass and anticipation, but does strut its stuff on the midpalate, activating its mineral, ripe fruit, slightly spicy notes,rewally turning on the power on the vibrant, long and smoky finish. Best after 2005. 2,250 cases made. -PM


Reticent aromas of lemon, vanilla, smoke and oyster shell. Penetrating, lemony fruit is leanish but ripe, its densitypartly hidden by strong, harmonious acidity. Shows a stony, saline character and superb depth of flavor. This verylong, firm wine opened beautifully with aeration to show a seamless, layered texture. (Classic Wine Imports, Boston,MA; most of Dauvissat wines available in America are imported under the Domaine Rene & Vincent Dauvissatlabel by Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL)

91/10021 feb 2004Burghound (BH)

Tasting note: Lovely mineral fruit notes of excellent intensity followed by medium weight flavors that display racyacidity. With a few years of bottle age, this has very much filled out though it is still young and developing thougheverything is in place as there is minerality to burn and plenty of bright, but ripe, supporting acidity. Terrific,beautiful Chablis and entirely classic.

107cl751996Dauvissat-Rene & Vincent / Chablis La ForestB

Verget / Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes1996


Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. Displaying stone and gravel aromas, the Chablis FourchaumeVieilles Vignes has an explosive, powerful, thick, and mouth-coating personality filled with layers of lemon drops,flowers, anise, flint and spicy new oak. It is a massively concentrated and extracted, yet racy and bright wine. Itsawesome finish appears to last for a minute, revealing traces of nuts, white fruits, and smoky flint. The rating, withthe range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-MarieGuffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when Ivisited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax# 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a PatrickLesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800)525-9699.


A lot of wine for the buck here. Intriguing new-wave Chablis, oaky but also clean and pure, with a lime-honeycombination that seduces the palate. Ripe, unctuous, opulent and fat, also offering lots of palate-cleansing acidity,this full-bodied Chablis delivers plenty of toasted spice, mocha, coffee, butter, caramel, pear tart, leesy, milky-yogurt complexity. Thick yet zesty finish. Perhaps the most balanced of Verget's Chablis. Best from 2005 through2015. -PM

98cl751996Verget/Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes

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White Wines FranceVerget / Chablis Premier Cru Montee de Tonnerre1996


Guffens' Chablis offerings continue to enthrall me. The fabulous Chablis Montee De Tonnerre reveals mineral andearth aromas as well as a medium-to-full-bodied, highly-delineated, rich, velvety, yet crisp core of stones, flint,lemon, and note of sweet oak. Refined, highly extracted, and bright, this wine will require cellaring patience.Projected maturity: 2003-2010. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of hislifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as Itasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North BerkeleyImports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), variousAmerican importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.


What a beauty. Tastes like a very minerally Puligny-Montrachet. So intense you think your tastebuds may notsurvive this full-bodied Chablis with its concentrated lime, honey, spice, pear and tropical flavors. Oaky but in abalanced way, it's so thick it almost sticks to your palate, yet it rockets with grace to a trailing finish that won't end.Try from 2002 to 2010. 790 cases made. -PM


Precise, steely aromas of minerals, red berries, pineapple and flowers. Strong minerally character in the mouth.Strong acids are well buffered by chewy fruit. Flavors are sharply etched and fine. Impressively long, vibrantaftertaste.

29cl751996Verget / Chablis Premier Cru Montee de TonnerreV



White Wines FranceBourgogne (Cotes de Beaune / communes)

Coche Dury-Jean Francois / Corton Charlemagne2002


Caramel-coated apples, melons, and white flowers are exhibited in the nose of the intense 2002 Corton-Charlemagne. Medium-bodied, plush, and pure, its flavor profile is reminiscent of golden raisins, quartz, mineralsand spices. This is a complex, exceptionally ripe wine with superb balance, depth, and length. Anticipated maturity:2007-2016. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524


Steely, penetrating aromas of pineapple, apple and minerals; almost medicinal in its austerity. Then dense, fat andripe but at the same time powerful, steely and backward. Conveys a drier impression today than the MeursaultPerrieres. Not yet particularly complex, but this strongly minerally, layered wine offers great grip and agingpotential. Coche noted that there were more rain showers around the village of Aloxe-Corton in '02 than inMeursault, which is one reason he prefers the Meursault Perrieres in this vintage. The same weather patternoccurred in vintage 2003, but in '03 the extra precipitation was a boon for his Corton-Charlemagne vines.


Steely, penetrating aromas of pineapple, apple and minerals; almost medicinal in its austerity. Then dense, fat andripe but at the same time powerful, steely and backward. Conveys a drier impression today than the MeursaultPerrieres. Not yet particularly complex, but this strongly minerally, layered wine offers great grip and agingpotential. Coche noted that there were more rain showers around the village of Aloxe-Corton in '02 than inMeursault, which is one reason he prefers the Meursault Perrieres in this vintage. The same weather patternoccurred in vintage 2003, but in '03 the extra precipitation was a boon for his Corton-Charlemagne vines.

96/10030 apr 2010Burghound (BH)

Tasting note: (with thanks to Steve Baum). This remains youthful and extremely fresh with an expressive nose ofgreen apple, citrus and floral notes that introduce big, powerful and muscular medium-weight plus flavors thatculminate in a hugely long finish that doesn't quit because as soon as it seems to have stopped, it commences againin waves. A great wine in every respect that to my taste is approaching its apogee but has not quite reached it.Tasted twice recently with consistent notes.

1475cl752002Coche Dury-Jean Francois / Corton CharlemagneV

Jadot-Louis / Corton Charlemagne1995


Beautifully balanced, with texture as thick as olive oil. Still shy on the nose and subtle in its flavors, it will besometime after 2000 before it plays at full volume its various tropical fruit, peach, mineral, pear and spice notes.Full-bodied, its finish is the definition of harmony. -PM

18/2022 jul 2010Jancis Robinson (JR)

Deep copper. Sweet and rich and brooding with some of the characteristic almond paste. Lots of alcohol.Impressively big with a sweet start and dry finish but it's already quite evolved.

90cl751995Jadot-Louis / Corton CharlemagneC



White Wines FranceMoine-Lucien Le / Corton Charlemagne2005

92-94/10001 jul 2007Burghound (BH)

Producer note: Mounir Saouma and his partner Rotem Brakir established their two-person micro-ngoce in 1999.They describe the 2005 vintage as a "small harvest that gave very concentrated raw materials. Across our growers,the crop was very clean with around 13.5% potential alcohol and very ripe phenolics. The extractions came easywhich is good because the fermentations were relatively fast so I tried to slow things down by having very longmalos. The tannins are not only ripe but quite dense and I stirred the lees between January and May and I believethat it really helped because the tannins really needed the lees, which were super clean and maybe the best andfinest I have ever seen, to help round them out and refine them. The 2005s are wines that will be capable of agingfor decades. Moreover, none of the wines have ever been racked and we never pumped any of them even once plusthey will be bottled without fining or filtration. I want to point out to your readers that because our cellars are verycold with naturally long malos and we treat them with the gentlest handling possible that our wines always havesome residual CO2 in them and thus they should be decanted." I asked the Le Moine team about pricing andSaouma was quick to respond saying that "for our size, we really stretched in 2005 and between both colors we'llput out about 50 1ers and grands crus. The reason that I say stretched is that the raw materials cost us between 30and 40% more though we only raised prices between 10 and 15% and in some cases zero. It's also the first pricehikes that we have made since 1999." In Saouma's view, the wines of Pommard and Vosne were the stars in 2005.Overall, this is a very impressive set of wines and since I have been following the Le Moine wines, 2005 is the bestI've yet seen. I should point out that because of the lees stirring that the mouth feel of these wines is distinctlydifferent plus the style runs to being very suave and round. As readers know I am a stylistic agnostic in terms ofqualitative ratings and I can tell you that the underlying material here in 2005 is superb. That said, if you are notfamiliar with the Le Moine style, I suggest trying a bottle or two first to see if it appeals to you. (Atherton WineImports, Atherton, CA, Chicago Wine Merchants, Chicago, IL and Vintus, New York, NY; Laytons and Lay andWheeler, UK). Tasting note: As one would reasonably expect, this is much more elegant and refined with moderatewood highlighting the fresh and stony green fruit aromas that offer real depth and leads to precise, minerally andexceptionally powerful flavors that positively drench the palate in dry extract on the hugely long finish. This is stillsorting itself out but the quality of the raw materials is impeccable and it possesses impressive potential.

91-94/10001 aug 2006International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Very fresh aromas of cold steel and menthol; distinctly medicinal in the context of the year. Then wonderfully fullbut with superb energy, combining flavors of lemon, lime, ginger and crushed rock. The minerality here is almostpainful. A compellingly taut wine with great palate-staining length and cut.


Very fresh aromas of cold steel and menthol; distinctly medicinal in the context of the year. Then wonderfully fullbut with superb energy, combining flavors of lemon, lime, ginger and crushed rock. The minerality here is almostpainful. A compellingly taut wine with great palate-staining length and cut.

94/10030 jun 2008Wine Spectator (WS)

Fresh and powerful, with a core of apricot, apple and lemon notes accented by clove and mineral. It has succulentacidity and keeps driving though the long finish. Smoke and mineral aftertaste. Best from 2012 through 2028. 50cases made. -BS

123cl752005Moine-Lucien Le / Corton CharlemagneJa

Moine-Lucien Le / Corton Charlemagne Hospices de Beaune Francois de Salins2007

126cl752007

Moine-Lucien Le/Corton Charlemagne Hospices de Beaune Francois deSalins

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Moine-Lucien Le / Corton Charlemagne Hospices de Beaune Francois de Salins2007

260cl150M

Domaine Armand-du Comte / Auxey Duresses Blanc2005

27cl752005Domaine Armand-du Comte / Auxey Duresses BlancM



White Wines France

Domaine Chanson Pere & Fils / Beaune Blanc Le Clos des Mouches2005


A beauty. Lime blossom, apple, peach and mineral aromas and flavors are fixed by the vibrant acidity. Elegant andgraceful, with intensity and a sense of terroir. Best from 2009 through 2018. 580 cases made. -BS

17,5/2014 mei 2011Bettane et Desseauve (BETD)

Magnifique expression au nez, ample, complexe, raffin, tout le charme et la puissance du millsime. Bois un peuinsistant.

52cl752005Domaine Chanson Pere & Fils/Beaune Blanc Le Clos des Mouches

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Fontaine-Gagnard / Criots Batard Montrachet1993

278cl1501993Fontaine-Gagnard / Criots Batard MontrachetD

Girardin-Vincent / Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot1995

43cl751995Girardin-Vincent / Chassagne Montrachet MorgeotF

Verget / Chassagne Montrachet En Remilly1996


The Chassagne-Montrachet En Remilly has expressive raspberry, red currant, and strawberry aromas (yes, it is awhite) and a sublime, perfectly-balanced, focused, silky-textured, medium-to-full-bodied, and expansive personality.Magnificently defined and yet dense, it reveals flavors of minerals, candied orange rinds, and spicy oak. Underneaththe surface, this wine appears to have a core of highly-extracted fruit that is as tightly wound as a clenched fist. Isuggest drinking it between 2003 and 2010+. This wine was tasted from barrel prior to racking. The rating, withthe range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-MarieGuffens told me that 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when Ivisited him in November, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax# 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a PatrickLesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800)525-9699.


Superripe, slightly high-toned aromas of mint, flowers, nuts, honey and beurre blanc. Very fresh but backward onthe palate; has a thickness of texture but the wine's sweetness and acidity are not yet completely harmonized. Slightfinishing note of white chocolate. Needs a couple years of bottle aging.

84cl751996Verget / Chassagne Montrachet En RemillyG

Verget / Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee1996


Guffens Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanee is a winemaking tour de force. Its refined and feminine nose reveals anunreal depth of candied red berries and an awesome purity. On the palate, layer upon layer of flowers, liquidminerals, anise, sweet citrus fruits, and oak spices can be found in this full-bodied, oily-textured, complex, andprofound offering. After literally a minute, I still could feel and taste this wine's presence in my mouth. Wow!Anticipated maturity: 2003-2012. This wine was tasted from barrel prior to racking. The rating, with the range ofscores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle. A year ago, Jean-Marie Guffens told methat 1996 was the greatest vintage of his lifetime. While he did not repeat that comment when I visited him inNovember, Guffens was bursting with pride as I tasted the wines. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick LesecSelection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-44706293), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.


High-pitched, tangy aromas of lime, pear and toasted almond. Palate-saturating, thick fruit offers greatconcentration and clarity of flavor. Lime and fresh herb notes give the wine great freshness. Here the superbsweetness and ripe acids are in perfect balance. Extremely long, firm aftertaste. A great example of this vineyard.

118cl751996Verget / Chassagne Montrachet La RomaneeV

Verget / Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot1996

106cl751996Verget / Chassagne Montrachet MorgeotV

Chateau Meursault-de / Meursault1989

33cl751989Chateau Meursault-de / MeursaultV



White Wines FranceCoche Dury-Jean Francois / Meursault2002

89-92/10001 sep 2003International Wine Cellar (IWC)

(Vireuils-Dessus) Steely aromas of lime, white flowers, minerals and spices. Bright and penetrating, withquintessential Meursault notes of pain grille, lime and minerals, along with spicy oak. Demonstrates greatnervosite, especially coming after the 2003s.

91+?/10001 sep 2004International Wine Cellar (IWC)

(Vireuils-Dessus) Steely aromas of lime, white flowers, minerals and spices. Bright and penetrating, withquintessential Meursault notes of pain grille, lime and minerals, along with spicy oak. Demonstrates greatnervosite, especially coming after the 2003s.

18/2007 okt 2010Jancis Robinson (JR)

Extraordinary bottle opened on 7 Oct and extremely steely and almost austere then was kept in the fridge about athird full and re-tasted on 31 Oct and was almost more delicious then, having taken on weight. Bone dry. Long.Packed with minerals and stony undertow. No hurry to drink, All on the finish, still opening out. I am heartened byjust how stunning a 1998 Rougets was in the interim between these two tastings.

212cl752002Coche Dury-Jean Francois / MeursaultC

Coche Dury-Jean Francois / Meursault Les Caillerets2002


Coche's 2002 Meursault Caillerets, produced from a parcel planted in 1994, explodes from the glass with greenapples and a myriad of spices. This plump, meaty, deep wine is crammed with honeyed minerals, toast, and creamedpears. It is concentrated, extremely well-balanced, and reveals an impressively long, fruit-filled finish. Projectedmaturity: 2005-2014. Note: Jean-Francois Coche labels five different wines as "Meursault," the Vireuils-Dessous,Vireuils-Dessus, La Barre, Narvaux, and from an as-yet-unnamed parcel (it may be called "Chaumes") on the top ofthe Meursault hill that belongs to his son Raphael. His US importer, Kermit Lynch, generally purchases only theMeursault from the Narvaux vineyard, but there is no way of knowing which "Meursault" is being purchased fromthe gray market. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524


Sexy sweet oak complicates aromas of peach, orange, butter and white flowers. Sweet, fruity and floral, with near-perfect framing acidity. A wine characterized more by its delicious fruit and round texture than by minerality, andeasier to taste today than the Narvaux, Chevaliers and Rougeots. Not especially subtle but very long on theaftertaste. These vines always ripen early, notes Coche, whereas Narvaux and Vireuils are always the last parcels tobe harvested.


Sexy sweet oak complicates aromas of peach, orange, butter and white flowers. Sweet, fruity and floral, with near-perfect framing acidity. A wine characterized more by its delicious fruit and round texture than by minerality, andeasier to taste today than the Narvaux, Chevaliers and Rougeots. Not especially subtle but very long on theaftertaste. These vines always ripen early, notes Coche, whereas Narvaux and Vireuils are always the last parcels tobe harvested.

390cl752002Coche Dury-Jean Francois/Meursault Les Caillerets

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White Wines France

Coche Dury-Jean Francois / Meursault Les Chevalieres2002


Yellow plums, apples, and white flowers can be discerned in the nose of the 2002 Meursault Chevalieres. Highlyfocused, pure, and detailed, it offers minerals, pears, and apples in its lengthy, expressive character. Drink it overthe next 6-7 years. Note: Jean-Francois Coche labels five different wines as "Meursault," the Vireuils-Dessous,Vireuils-Dessus, La Barre, Narvaux, and from an as-yet-unnamed parcel (it may be called "Chaumes") on the top ofthe Meursault hill that belongs to his son Raphael. His US importer, Kermit Lynch, generally purchases only theMeursault from the Narvaux vineyard, but there is no way of knowing which "Meursault" is being purchased fromthe gray market. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524


Explosive, rather exotic aromas of orange and apricot, with notes of minerals and menthol. Large-scaled butbackward today, and thus showing less detail than some of the foregoing wines. But this has superb material andconsiderable body. Best now on the slowly mounting, very long finish, which shows more subtlety of flavor than thewine's middle palate.


Explosive, rather exotic aromas of orange and apricot, with notes of minerals and menthol. Large-scaled butbackward today, and thus showing less detail than some of the foregoing wines. But this has superb material andconsiderable body. Best now on the slowly mounting, very long finish, which shows more subtlety of flavor than thewine's middle palate.

90/10001 jul 2006Burghound (BH)

Producer note: Jean-Franois Coche describes 2004 as having produced "big yields. It was frankly impossible tocompletely control them and I have never seen such a huge berry set. We had 3 to 4 bunches per branch and there isno way all of those bunches would have adequately ripened had we not dropped some fruit and had a magnificentSeptember. We began picking on the 29th of September and because we had touches of botrytis and oidium, wespent a lot of time sorting the grapes. Indeed we were lucky to not really have much oidium problem but you had towatch every day for signs. Sugars were good and we had almost no chaptalization. I did quite a bit of lees stirring tohelp enrich the wines and I believe it helped add mid-palate fat. The malos were quite long and as such, I don'tbelieve that we'll bottle before April. Overall, 2004 is a very good vintage which reminds me somewhat of 1974 or1981." Note: Because of a scheduling problem in 2004, I missed tasting the Coche 2002s. Consequently, I wish tosincerely thank subscriber Roger Forbes for opening the range of '02s so that I could include reviews herein (exceptfor the Rougeots which was tasted in Burgundy). Further, Coche explained that there will now also be two differentcuves of Bourgogne that will be bottled separately, much as he does with different lots of Meursault. (KermitLynch, Berkeley, CA; Berkmann Wine Cellars, La Rserve and Domaine Direct, all UK). Tasting note: Thisrepresents a big step up in elegance and refinement with pretty, elegant and mineral-infused aromas and middleweight flavors that don't possess the same degree of mid-palate fat but they're sleeker, finer and more balanced. Areally lovely effort, particularly for its level.

306cl752002Coche Dury-Jean Francois/Meursault Les Chevalieres

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White Wines France

Coche Dury-Jean Francois / Meursault Les Perrieres2002


Subdued, refined aromas of peach, lemon peel, orange, stone and vanillin oak. Wonderfully suave on entry, thendemonstrates pure grand cru class in the middle palate, with brilliantly delineated peach and citrus flavors lifted bycrushed stone and minerals. A wine with great power and cut and yet almost magically light on its feet. Goes on andon on the back end; due to its palate-drenching extract, it's hard to get this wine off your palate (but that's nocomplaint!). The production was a healthy 45 hectoliters per hectare in 2002, notes Coche, who added that thegrapes in Perrieres and in Narvaux were as perfect as he's ever seen them. In 2003, in contrast, his hillside parcelsin Meursault yielded between 18 and 25 hectoliters per hectare. A personal favorite among the 2002s I tasted thisspring.


Subdued, refined aromas of peach, lemon peel, orange, stone and vanillin oak. Wonderfully suave on entry, thendemonstrates pure grand cru class in the middle palate, with brilliantly delineated peach and citrus flavors lifted bycrushed stone and minerals. A wine with great power and cut and yet almost magically light on its feet. Goes on andon on the back end; due to its palate-drenching extract, it's hard to get this wine off your palate (but that's nocomplaint!). The production was a healthy 45 hectoliters per hectare in 2002, notes Coche, who added that thegrapes in Perrieres and in Narvaux were as perfect as he's ever seen them. In 2003, in contrast, his hillside parcelsin Meursault yielded between 18 and 25 hectoliters per hectare. A personal favorite among the 2002s I tasted thisspring.

95-97/10029 feb 2004eRobertParker.com (WA)No tasting note given.

96+/10031 mrt 2006eRobertParker.com (WA)



Producer note: Jean-Franois Coche describes 2004 as having produced "big yields. It was frankly impossible tocompletely control them and I have never seen such a huge berry set. We had 3 to 4 bunches per branch and there isno way all of those bunches would have adequately ripened had we not dropped some fruit and had a magnificentSeptember. We began picking on the 29th of September and because we had touches of botrytis and oidium, wespent a lot of time sorting the grapes. Indeed we were lucky to not really have much oidium problem but you had towatch every day for signs. Sugars were good and we had almost no chaptalization. I did quite a bit of lees stirring tohelp enrich the wines and I believe it helped add mid-palate fat. The malos were quite long and as such, I don'tbelieve that we'll bottle before April. Overall, 2004 is a very good vintage which reminds me somewhat of 1974 or1981." Note: Because of a scheduling problem in 2004, I missed tasting the Coche 2002s. Consequently, I wish tosincerely thank subscriber Roger Forbes for opening the range of '02s so that I could include reviews herein (exceptfor the Rougeots which was tasted in Burgundy). Further, Coche explained that there will now also be two differentcuves of Bourgogne that will be bottled separately, much as he does with different lots of Meursault. (KermitLynch, Berkeley, CA; Berkmann Wine Cellars, La Rserve and Domaine Direct, all UK). Tasting note: While therest of the range in 2002 is clearly impressive, the '02 Perrires is a huge step up and in every dimension. This iswonderfully elegant, strikingly complex, gorgeously pure and stunningly precise and long, replete with the pungentminerality of a great Perrires and the class and linearity of a top grand cru. While it can't match the Corton-Charlie for raw powerful and sheer size, this is its equal in style and grace.

18,5/2001 jan 2007La Revue du Vin de France (LARVF)

Domaine Jean-Franois Coche-Dury Meursault Premier Cru Perrires 2002

990cl752002Coche Dury-Jean Francois/Meursault Les Perrieres

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White Wines France

Domaine Boillot-Jean & Fils (Henri) / Meursault Les Perrieres2002

93-97/10001 okt 2003International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Deeply pitched aromas of lemon drop and wet stone. Superripe and thick, with chewy soft citrus and pineappleflavors complicated by stone and gunflint; distinctly rockier in character than the Genevrieres. A wine of greatsolidity, concentration and palate-staining persistence. The crop level for this and the Genevrieres was about 40hectoliters per hectare, says Boillot.


Sporting a compelling nose of minerals and flint, the 2002 Meursault Perrieres is a fleshy, concentrated, juicy wine.Crystalline layers of minerals can be found in its deep, highly focused character. This light to medium-bodied effortshould be drunk over the next 7 years. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083


Producer note: Henri Boillot told me that 2002 is "a great millsime with exceptionally good maturity if one waswilling to wait. I told my growers that I would not accept fruit that was harvested at the ban de vendange (officiallydeclared harvest date). As such, everything came in with sugar levels between 13.5 and 14% but, and this is thewonderful thing about 2002, we still had excellent acidity. In other words, the wines are very ripe but they havebackbone and plenty of dry extract, which gives them a subtle chewy character. I demanded that my growers pruneseverely and it shows as yields were on average between 40 and 42 hl/ha and that includes the Bourgogne. For me,the vintage is a blend of 1992 and 1996, with the accessibility of the former but the structure and potential longevityof the latter." And Boillot is justifiably proud of his wines as these are arguably the best ngociant of the vintagealthough in passing, I should observe that it's becoming more and more difficult to easily say who is, and who isn't,a ngociant, at least on some basis. The other aspect that I liked about these wines is that even though the oak ishardly shy, it's clearly more discreet than any of his prior three vintages. The wines were bottled between Octoberand December and I tasted them in February. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, D.C.; Enotria Wine Cellars,Lea & Sandeman and Georges Barbier, all UK). Note: In Issue 11 I discussed some of the more interesting aspectsregarding Boillot's meteoric rise to the top, and in a truly remarkable short period of time. I pointed out there wasabsolutely no "cross over" between the appellations at the Domaine and Maison, at least at the 1er and grand crulevels, which helped to avoid consumer confusion, something that certain other well regarded producers,conveniently or otherwise, fail to observe. While this was true for Boillot in the three preceding vintages of 1999,2000 and 2001, there is an exception for 2002 with both sides of the operation issuing a Meursault "Genevrires".This is minor point as the quality is quite similar and the suggested retail price (around $85) is the same but Imention it to you so that you will understand if you see these two wines under two different labels. Lastly, there is noBienvenues or Criots in 2002. Tasting note: Yet one more expression of the wonderful terroir of Meursault as this iscompletely different despite being next door to both Charmes and Genevrires. A trace of wood toast frameselegant, pure and exuberantly fresh orchard fruit aromas that reveal naturally sweet, intensely sappy, chewy yetfinely detailed flavors of such intense stoniness that it's akin to rolling pebbles around in the mouth. There is seriousdepth here and this may ultimately surpass the Genevrires but it will be a close race.

38cl752002Domaine Boillot-Jean & Fils (Henri)/Meursault Les Perrieres

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Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault1997

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White Wines France

Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Clos de la Barre1992

89-91/10031 okt 1993eRobertParker.com (WA)

The 1992s are still in cask, hence the estimated ratings. Lafon rarely filters his wines. All of Lafon's 1992s are ripe,rich, precocious wines that will not have the aging potential of the superb 1989s, and excellent 1990s. Lafon, whosells only ten percent of his production to the United States, believes his 1992s are similar to the 1982s (probablythe best wines of the vintage), but with more intensity and purity. Tasters will notice a jump in intensity andconcentration with the 1992 Meursault-Clos de la Barre. The wine reveals a flowery, honey, nut, and butter-scentedbouquet and flavors. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Classic Wine Imports,Boston, MA.

90/10001 jan 1996Wine Spectator (WS)

A silky, smooth Burgundy that's full-bodied and plays variations on its carmel, butterscotch, coffee and spice notes.It also delivers some refreshing lemon character and a chalky, mineral quality that gives it depth and interest. Drinknow.

174cl751992Domaine Lafon-des Comtes/Meursault Clos de la Barre

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Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Clos de la Barre1997


Harvested at 13.3% natural potential alcohol, the Meursault Clos De La Barre reveals sweet aromas of candiedpears, apples, and honeysuckle. This vibrant, medium-to-full-bodied, and deeply rich wine is crammed withpeaches, minerals, and clay. It is velvety-textured, thick, exquisitely dense, and possesses an admirably long finish.Drink it between 2001 and 2007. Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel (617) 876-5105.


Vanilla, lemon and hazelnut aromas. Dense and ripe, but juicy and fresh. Still rather tightly wrapped despite itsunderlying richness. Finishes with sneaky persistence. This will be very good.

128cl751997Domaine Lafon-des Comtes/Meursault Clos de la Barre

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Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Desiree1997


The Meursault Desiree is opulent and has a long finish. It displays apricot, acacia blossom, and grilled wood scentsas well as a seductively rich character. White peaches, currants, and minerals can be found in its forward, rich, yetstructured medium-to-full-bodied personality. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2006. Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA;tel (617) 876-5105.


Interesting and distinctive got de terroir. Aromatically sharp, offering dried herbs and pungent wet earthcomponents. Medium-bodied and citrusy, it has a fairly supple midpalate, displaying good concentration of fruit.Gains silkiness on the intense long finish. Needs time. Best from 2003 through 2010. -PM

114cl751997Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault DesireeD



White Wines FranceDomaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Les Charmes1992

91-93/10031 okt 1993eRobertParker.com (WA)

The 1992 Meursault-Les Charmes reveals more sweetness to its fruit and more elegance than the other 1992Meursault offerings. It does not possess the overwhelming intensity and extraction noticeable in vintages such as1989. Lafon rarely filters his wines. All of Lafon's 1992s are ripe, rich, precocious wines that will not have theaging potential of the superb 1989s, and excellent 1990s. Lafon, who sells only ten percent of his production to theUnited States, believes his 1992s are similar to the 1982s (probably the best wines of the vintage), but with moreintensity and purity. The 1992s are still in cask, hence the estimated ratings. Importer: A Peter Vezan Selection,various importers, including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA.

93/10001 jan 1996Wine Spectator (WS)

What a beauty! Brilliant winemaking here. It pushes the envelope with seductive toasted hazelnut, pear, pie crust,honey and earth flavors in perfectly balanced proportions. This is what white Burgundy is all about. Awesome nowbut should taste great for years. Drink now through 2006.

94/10001 aug 1999International Wine Cellar (IWC), Stephen Tanzer

Intriguing aromas of honey, oyster shell, hazelnut and grilled bread. Big, sweet, supple and rich, with superb depthof flavor. Still quite young: Dominique suggests waiting another two or three years before pulling the cork. Verylong, elegant, slow-mounting aftertaste coats the mouth with ripe fruit and honey flavors. Showing spectacularlytoday. This wine still included a full hectare of 65-year-old vines; half of this parcel was replanted after the '92harvest.


Tasting note: The '92 Charmes has always been a rather atypical wine for this vintage because in contrast to theopen, accessible, very forward style of most '92s, this has always been backward and rather unforthcoming ifpacked with potential. The aromas and flavors are just now beginning to open, revealing simply gorgeous if subtlehazelnut and pain grill aromas and rich, full-bodied, very precise and pure flavors of exceptional acid/fruitbalance and lovely finishing elegance. A sensational effort for the vintage that drinks well now but if well stored,should continue to hold. Multiple and consistent notes.|


Tasting note: The '92 Charmes has always been a rather atypical wine for this vintage because in contrast to theopen, accessible, very forward style of most '92s, this has always been backward and rather unforthcoming ifpacked with potential. The aromas and flavors are just now beginning to open, revealing simply gorgeous if subtlehazelnut and pain grill aromas and rich, full-bodied, very precise and pure flavors of exceptional acid/fruitbalance and lovely finishing elegance. A sensational effort for the vintage that drinks well now but if well stored,should continue to hold. Multiple and consistent notes.|

223cl751992Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Les CharmesD



White Wines FranceDomaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Les Charmes1997


The Meursault Charmes offers an extraordinarily elegant nose of earth, minerals, nuts, and flowers. This vivacious,medium-to-full-bodied, and harmonious wine has sweet mineral, chalk, citrus, and floral flavors. It is rich,gorgeously refined, and velvety-textured. Drink it between 2002 and 2008. Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel(617) 876-5105.


Showier, deeper-pitched aromas of smoky oak, vanilla and hazelnut. Big, full and very concentrated; rich andharmonious. Less racy than the above but stuffed with fruit. Rather suave for Charmes and utterly satisfying.


Showier, deeper-pitched aromas of smoky oak, vanilla and hazelnut. Big, full and very concentrated; rich andharmonious. Less racy than the above but stuffed with fruit. Rather suave for Charmes and utterly satisfying.


Gorgeous white Burgundy. Full-bodied, silky, with a real spicy mocha-coffee and macadamia nut complexity. Thereis so much to love in this seductive, honeyed Chardonnay. A crowd-pleaser from start to finish. Drink now through2010. -PM

90/10014 nov 2005Burghound (BH)

Tasting note: Superbly ripe fruit framed by noticeable wood notes is followed by medium weight, rich, full, nicelytextured and very forward flavors of real depth and impressive levels of finishing sve and terrific length. Forwardbut classy and the quality clearly transcends the vintage. This could be drunk now or held for another year, perhapstwo before drinking up in earnest. Multiple notes

137cl751997Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Les CharmesD

Domaine Lafon-des Comtes / Meursault Les Genevrieres1997


The Meursault Genevrieres is spectacular! As he poured it, Lafon enthusiastically said "it is the best wine of my life,I'm very proud of it." Sweet almond cookies intermingled with juicy citrus fruits can be found in this beauty'saromas. It explodes on the palate with richly-textured and expansive flavors reminiscent of spiced apples, earth,minerals, and mangoes. This is a medium-to-full-bodied, intensely flavored, and opulent wine that is amazinglyrefined. Its exceptionally long finish lasted for at least 40 seconds. Impressive! Anticipated maturity: 2002-2008+.Importer: Ex Cellars, Boston, MA; tel (617) 876-5105.


Perfumed aromas of hazelnut, lime and spice. Rich but racy and stylish; youthful and minerally. Rather elegantlystyled wine, quite precise for the vintage. Very long on the finish. Lafon now uses just 50% new oak for hisGenevrieres; as recently as 1992, this was made in all new barrels.


Perfumed aromas of hazelnut, lime and spice. Rich but racy and stylish; youthful and mineral

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