wood cookbook...double bed 17 bedroom wardrobe 19 bathroom cabinet 21 mirror 23 panelling 25...

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Michael Jewitt’s

Wood Cookbook

Introduction

i ’ve come up with a few ‘Do It Yourself Properly’ recipes specially for you, because the secret of great

cooking isn’t just excellent ingredients and careful handling, it’s a little bit of inspiration too – even

if you’re Jamie Oliver or Delia Smith. Apart from impressing friends with a bit of tool know-how, I also love

living with the furniture I’ve made from scratch because it’s exactly what I like, and it can move with me

wherever I go.

I hope this book can act as a reminder that your efforts to plan, measure, invest in the right tools and have

a bit of patience, will be rewarded with years of use, enjoyment and pride, instead of an instant appearance

on DIY House Demolition. I’ve used birch and pine as they’re both readily available and easy to work, whether

you’re planning a nifty vase or a crowd stopping room divider. All this furniture is made for real home living,

so I hope you discover a tiny chocolate egg on top of your panelling, a thousand toast crumbs in your bed,

two glasses of champagne in the bathroom cabinet and a dozen favourite people at the table ready to tuck

into your meat and two veg. Enjoy the journey and then relax.

Contents

Kitchen cupboard doors 3

Chairs 5

Dining table 7

Room divider 9

Sideboard 11

Vase 13

Coffee Table 15

Double bed 17

Bedroom wardrobe 19

Bathroom cabinet 21

Mirror 23

Panelling 25

Flooring 27

Tools 29

Disclaimer: The content herein is for general guidance only. While every effort has been taken to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication, no responsibility for loss or damage occasioned to any person acting orrefraining from action as a result of any statement in it can be accepted by the authors or publishers.

Recipe: Cutting to size.This design achieves a panelled effect using

very simple construction techniques. A great

way to give your kitchen a total facelift without

costing a fortune.

Measure your existing doors and cut the 12mm

pine board to size.

The panel. Decide what panel style you want. Mine has

a deeper lower panel to make the design

feel slimmer.

You can decorate the lower panel with three

grooves, using a router and a 4mm router bit. To

keep the lines parallel, use some straight timber,

clamped in position, as a guide for the router.

The frame. Cut the 6mm board into a 60mm strip for each

piece of the frame, using a mitre saw, or mitre

block. Once glued and pinned into position, the

sandwich will create an 18mm thick door.

It’s a good idea to make the first door in one go

to check you are happy with it. After that, do all

the cutting and routing together. A speedy

system will emerge!

The hinges. Check the correct hinge positions

for each door, transferring the measure-

ments from your existing doors.

Cut the new hinge holes using the correct

size cutter – most are 35mm diameter.

Now you can paint or stain the finished

doors to suit your vision for your

new kitchen.

1 2 3 4

Kitchencupboard doors.

Tools: pencil

35mm hinge cutter tape measure

router, with 4mm bit set square

wood glue quick release clamps

drill wood drill bits

handsaw mitre block

Ingredients:12mm laminated pine board for the body of the door

(calculate the quantity you need by measuring your

existing doors).

6mm laminated pine board for the outer frame. I have

made mine a 60mm wide strip.

3

Recipe: Cutting the parts.The main part of this construction is cutting the

parts. First off, design the look and draw

templates for the component parts.

Using the templates, cut out the seat slats and

sides with a jigsaw and sand to a good finish. If

you’re handy with a router, you can finish off

the edges using a bearing guided edge trimmer.

Assembling the seat sections. Drill three holes through the seat pieces to take

the dowels.

Assemble the seat sections by pushing the

dowels through and spacing them out with a

piece of wood cut to size (hold on to this –

using a ruler each time takes up valuable sitting

down time!).

When spaced, drill a pilot hole, apply some

glue and screw through from below to secure

each piece.

Assembling the side sections.Using the same drill bit you used for the

dowel holes, make corresponding holes in the

sides. They should be 18mm deep within the

24mm thickness.

Remember, the sides are a pair and the holes

should be on the inside.

The sides can now be joined with the stretcher

pieces, which are glued and screwed into

position and held with sash cramps.

Final assembly and finishing.The seat and the sides can now be joined by

gluing the dowel ends into the holes in

the sides.

I have applied a clear varnish to the ply and

painted the sides of each seat slat pale blue.

This is best done before you space and glue

all of the slats together, otherwise it will get

pretty messy in there.

1 2 3 4

Chairs.

Tools: pencil

tape measure set square

hammer jigsaw

drill 16mm flat wood drill bit

wood glue sash cramps

quick release clamps handsaw

screwdriver router

Ingredients:The entire construction is from 24mm thick birch ply

with 15mm ø dowels threaded through the seat

pieces to space and connect them. There are 10 's'

shaped seat pieces, two side pieces and two

'stretchers' that connect the side pieces together at

the base for each chair.

5

Recipe: Shaping the legs.I have tapered the legs to this table to give a

more elegant feel.

From the top of the leg, measure down 70mm

on the right hand side of the face. At the bottom

of the same face, measure in 40mm from the

left hand side. Draw a diagonal line that joins

the two points.

Repeat this in mirror image to the adjacent side

and cut away the waste as shown.

Assembling the legs and frame.Cut a slot in the legs to take the side rails.

Looking from above, the slots on each side are

17mm in from the edge, 17mm wide and 70mm

deep. Once marked, drill them out, cleaning up

using a chisel. 53mm from the end of each rail,

make a series of saw cuts 17mm deep and

remove the top half of the timber as shown.

Mitre the very end and you have a strong joint

at the leg corners.

These can now all be glued and clamped

together to make the basic frame.

Assembling the stretchers.The stretchers are made from strips of 24mm

birch ply, 40mm wide. The shorter pieces that go

between the legs need to be oversized.

Join the three long pieces to the end pieces by

gluing and screwing them together. Use filler to

hide the screws.

Clamp the stretcher in position and mark the

oversize ends to allow for the taper in the legs.

Once cut, glue and screw them in position, fixing

from below.

Assembling the table.My table top also has a tapered edge, which

can be done with the circular saw set at an

angle when cutting to size. To create the

three detail strips which echo the stretchers

below, run three parallel grooves about

3mm deep with the router. You can then slot

in aluminium strips, some thin strips of solid

timber, or leave them as grooves. The top

can then be fixed to the frame using 50mm

x 50mm metal angled brackets, two on each

long side and one at each end.

1 2 3 4

Dining table.

Tools: pencil

router, with 2mm bit screwdriver

circular saw wood glue

sash cramps quick release clamps


handsaw flat wood drill bits

tenon marking gauge tape measure

chisels & hammer set square

Ingredients:24mm birch ply for the top, 1900mm x 850mm.

70mm x 70mm planed pine for the legs,

700mm high.

34mm x 70mm planed pine for the frame,

2 x 1500mm and 2 x 600mm.

The stretchers that join the legs at the base can be

made from birch left from the table top.

7

Recipe: Making the panels.The backbone to this project is the birch boxes,

made from solid-looking hollow panels.

Decide on your dimensions, then cut the 6mm

ply to form the top and bottom of your panel.

Cut strips of 18mm ply 60mm wide and glue

them together to create 36mm pieces. Mitre the

corners and glue to one piece of the 6mm ply

to make a frame all the way around. Glue the

other piece to the frame and you have your

first panel.

Making the boxes. When you’ve made all the panels you need for

your bespoke room divider or sideboard, you

can fix them together to make the birch boxes.

Glue and screw the panels together through the

top panel into the side panel.

If you are stacking the boxes, the screw holes

can be filled with a protruding piece of

aluminium rod, which will act as a locating pin

and join the boxes together. You could also cut

the aluminium flush to create a feature rather

than trying to hide the holes.

Making the inside. Once you’ve made the outer box and have a

size to work to, you can begin the inner

construction of the sideboard by cutting the

top, the bottom, the sides and the dividers from

18mm pine board.

After all the pieces are cut to size, assemble them

in the birch box to make sure the fit is good.

Glue and screw the sides and uprights between

the top and the bottom. This way the screws will

be hidden from view.

A finishing touch. Now, since this piece can be moved around,

I have added some lockable castors for

maximum mobility. You never know,

downhill sideboard racing could well be in

the next Olympics.

1 2 3 4

Room divider.

Tools: pencil


drill, with 10mm wood bit plane

screwdriver sash cramps

handsaw hacksaw

circular saw mitre block

wood glue quick release clamps

Ingredients:This piece can be made to measure for your own

space, so take the visual inspiration and general

construction techniques as a starting point for your

own creation.

18mm and 6mm birch ply for the outer boxes.

18mm and 6mm laminated pine boards for the inner

part of the lower construction on castors.

9

Recipe: Rebating the sides.The construction of the drawers for this unit

uses very simple techniques and no

complicated joints.

All sides of the drawer need to have a rebate to

take the base. This is best done before you cut

all of the pieces up – it’s easier to run the router

along one long piece than four smaller ones.

Assembling the sides.After gluing and screwing three sides together,

insert the 6mm pine board drawer base into

the rebate and then fix the final side to create

a box shape.

Plan your dimensions so that the front and back

of the drawer are screwed to the sides, so that

the screws won’t be visible when you’re using

the drawer.

Assembling the front.The front is also in 18mm pine and is larger than

the box shape.

The size of the box shape needs to be

determined by the size of the aperture the

drawer will fit into and the size of the drawer

runners you are using.

Make sure you have all of this information

before you calculate your final sizes.

The front is screwed into position from inside to

hide the fixing. It will hide the drawer runners

when shut.

Deciding on a handle.The runners are fixed to the inside of the

cupboard and the sides of the drawers.

You may decide that your drawers require a

jaunty handle, or a fancy knob. It's all good,

although I have gone for a simple finger hole.

Mark the position of the hole on the drawer

front and then clamp a piece of spare wood

directly behind.

Using a 25mm flat bit, drill your hole. The

spare wood behind will stop any splitting as

the drill passes through.

1 2 3 4

Sideboarddrawers.

Tools: pencil


hammer handsaw




Ingredients:Use the basic construction of the room divider from

the previous page to create this contemporary

sideboard, complete with drawers.

18mm and 6mm laminated pine boards.

Drawer runners.

11

Recipe: Preparing the base.This design can be used for a whole range of

vases in different sizes, so experiment and have

some fun.

I have glued four pieces of planed 55mm x

55mm together to make a block and then cut it

to 180mm high.

Sanding completes the task and brings out the

end grain of the timber.

Using a 32mm flat bit, drill a hole in the centre

of the block 40 – 50mm deep.

Creating the cone. To create the cone shape of the vase requires a

little trial and error, so experiment on paper first

(lining paper is a good choice).

If you unravel a paper cup, you’ll see the sort of

shape to draw to create your vase.

When you’ve drawn your perfect shape and it

folds into a thing of beauty, transfer the

information to the ply.

You will notice that the grain in the ply creates a

natural rolling effect, so follow this when cutting

out your shape.

Assembling the vase.Shape your cone and glue it along the long side,

clamping it with some pegs, bulldog clips and

masking tape to hold its shape until the glue sets.

Then place the cone into the hole in the block,

trimming the point for a snug fit.

When it fits well, glue it into position.

Finally root out an appropriately sized plastic

bottle, tighten the lid, cut off the base and slide

it into the cone. Fill with water and get those

Gerberas in there!

1 2 3

Vase.

Tools: pencil



plane wood glue

sash cramps quick release clamps

handsaw scissors

Ingredients:For every massive room divider construction, there should

be a pocket sized project to work on while the beer is

cooling. The base is made from planed pine and the cone

is made from 0.4mm birch ply. Oh and you'll need a plastic

bottle to complete the job... here's one I made earlier.

13

Recipe: Assembling the frame.I’ve used mortise and tenon joints. The frame

rails have the tenon (the peg) and the legs, the

mortise (the slot).

The tenon is usually a third of the thickness of

the timber – here about 19mm. Mark out the

tenon and remove the excess with a handsaw.

Mark out the mortise, drill out and then clean

out with a chisel.

Glue the legs and the rails together and clamp

in position to dry. The frame is now complete.

Cutting the cross bars. The cross bars that will hold the top slats together

need to be located and joined to the frame.

Measure back 150mm from the end of the frame

on the long rail and cut a 12mm slot 25mm deep.

This can be done by a series of saw cuts,

removing the excess with a chisel.

Repeat this operation to the other end of the rail

and then to both ends of the opposite rail.

Cutting the slats.To make life more interesting, I have cut the ends

of the slats to an angle of 30˚.

These slats need to be joined together using the

cross bars, so each one must have a slot.

To save time, clamp all of the slats together,

measure 292mm in from the ends, set up a guide

and run the circular saw at 25mm deep across

the lot.

Adjust the guide several times to create a 12mm

slot. Repeat at the other end.

Assembly.Using a 15mm spacer, place the top slats of

the table onto the cross bars, starting tightly

to one end and working your way across.

You may find this easier if the cross bars are

placed into the slots on the table frame.

If all goes to plan, the last slat should fit

exactly to the end of the cross bar; if not,

slightly adjust the spacing. When you are

happy, mark the position of each one and

then, one by one, glue the slats to the

cross bars.

1 2 3 4

Coffee table.

Tools: tape measure set square

hammer chisels

drill flat wood drill bits

sash cramps circular saw

tenon marking gauge wood glue

handsaw pencil

Ingredients:10 x 1600mm lengths of 28mm x 58mm planed pine for

the top slatted surface.

58mm x 58mm planed pine for the legs and frame.

The long sides are 1200mm, the short sides 300mm

and the legs 300mm.

70mm x 12mm planed pine, cut to a length of 416mm

for the cross bars.

15

Recipe: Preparing the legs.Mark a point 88mm down from the top of the leg

on one corner and again a further 60mm down.

Measure 15mm in and join the two points.

Repeat to the adjacent side.

Make several cuts across the corner of the leg

at 45˚ and remove the timber as shown. You will

now have a flat area on the edge of the leg. Drill

two 11mm holes on the centre line, one 15mm

from the top and one 15mm from the bottom.

Screw in the fixings.

Preparing the frame. The sides of the frame are made from three

pieces. The 70mm pine is glued to the top of the

120mm piece and faces 'outward'.

The shorter 40mm pine is glued and screwed at

the bottom on the ‘inside’, centred, to leave a

70mm gap at either end.

You should now be the proud owner of two

long sides and two short sides, each as mirror

image pairs.

Assembling the frame and legs. Cut the 18mm ply into 100mm x 60mm rectangles

with mitred edges to the short sides. On the

centre line, measure down 15mm and up 15mm,

drilling a 12mm hole in each position.

Lay the long and short sides in position and

secure them temporarily with a couple of the

mattress slats screwed in place.

Screw and glue the birch corner pieces into

position, allowing the glue to set overnight before

fixing the legs and bolting them in position. Finally,

screw in position the remaining mattress slats.

Making the headboard.The headboard is basically a 200mm x

70mm x 1400mm box made from the 18mm

pine board.

Glue and screw what would be the bottom of

this box to the bed frame. This will act as a

locating system and will also enable you to

fix the headboard from the rear. Should you

need to dismantle the bed, the headboard

can be easily removed.

1 2 3 4

Doublebed.

Tools: pencil


hammer quick release clamps

drill, with 12mm wood bit screwdriver

wood glue handsaw

plane chisels

Ingredients:Use your mattress as a starting point to determine youroverall dimensions. For a 1400mm x 1950mm mattressyou’ll need the following planed pine:Legs: 4 x 300mm long 70mm x 70mm. Long side rails:2 x 1950mm long 28mm x 120mm

2 x 1950mm long 28mm x 70mm2 x 1810mm long 28mm x 40mm.

Short rails: 2 x 1400mm long 28mm x 120mm2 x 1400mm long 28mm x 70mm2 x 1260mm long 28mm x 40mm.

Mattress slats: 13 x 1380mm long 28mm x 120mm.Corner struts: 4 x 100mm x 60mm x 18mm birch ply

8 x M12 screw-in bolts with wing nuts.

17

Recipe: Preparing the frame.Cut all your 15mm pine board to size, ensuring

the sides fit between the tops and bottoms. The

main cupboard is 1950mm high, 400mm wide

and 550mm deep. The smaller cupboard is

1200mm x 400mm x 550mm and the smaller one

below is 750mm x 400mm x 550mm.

Set up your router with a 6mm router bit and

make a rebate to the back edge of each piece

to take the 6mm pine board. Glue all the pieces

together and secure with screws.

Constructing the doors.The doors are an unusual design with the frame

wider to the centre.

Once all of the pieces are cut, run a 6mm rebate

to the centre to take the pine board panels.

I’ve used mortise and tenon joints. As mentioned

before, they should be roughly a third of the

thickness of the timber being joined.

The uprights of the doors should be left longer

than required and cut flush when the frame has

been glued together.

Making the door handles.The handle details are simple yet add an

individual touch. I have used the router with a

6mm cutter. As you can see above, I have made

a groove across the frame, with the depth just

touching the inner pine board panel.

The handle is then made up from a thin long

piece of 6mm birch ply, stretching across to

meet the other side of the frame and a

rectangular piece which forms the actual handle.

If you are painting or staining, the handle can be

glued in position last.

The pull out shelf.The main function of the pull out shelf is to

position the all important morning cup of tea.

I have arranged the height of this in

conjunction with the double bed design.

The shelf is actually a hollow pine box,

with the front slightly larger to hide the

sliding runners.

The runners are fixed to the base of the box

and then to the shelf below.

Your 3 cupboards are now complete and

need to be screwed together as shown.

1 2 3 4

Bedroomwardrobe.

Tools: pencil


hammer chisels

drill flat wood drill bits


tenon marking gauge wood glue

sash cramps handsaw

Ingredients:Adjust to suit your space. The main elements are three

cupboards, two with doors and one with a slide out

shelf, all using 15mm laminated pine board, with a

6mm back. The doors are 28mm planed pine. The

hinge side and top and bottom of the frame are 58mm

wide, the handle side 120mm.

Drawer runners.

19

Recipe: Preparing the pieces.Cut the pine board to size. Work out your

spacing and mark up both tall sides. Remember

these are a pair, so each side is a mirror image.

Use a 6mm cutter and the router to run rebates

for the shelves 6mm deep, stopping 20mm from

the front edge.

Cut a 5mm x 10mm notch from each front

corner of your shelves.

Dry assemble with all the shelves. If it works,

glue the shelves in position, screwing the top

and bottom pieces to the sides.

Assembling the frame. The birch ply outer is glued and screwed

together. Drill a pilot hole for the screw first and

countersink the hole.

If you wish to put a back onto the entire

cupboard, rebate the back edge of the birch

before assembly.

The plinth is made from 4 x 45mm x 45mm x

320mm pieces of planed pine. Mitre the corners of

the 45mm x 45mm planed pine and glue together.

Once this is set the frame can be glued to the

base of the birch section.

Fitting the door.The remaining pine board pieces can now be

glued and screwed together.

To simplify the hanging process and because this

is a small, lightweight door, I have used flush

hinges. These are widely available and mean you

don't have to rebate the door or the door frame.

Drill pilot holes to avoid splitting.

Assembly.Using our trusty birch ply off-cuts, I have

made the handle for the door by making a

slot with the router and a 6mm cutter,

notching the ends of the handle as I did with

the shelves and gluing in position.

The two inner shapes can now be slotted into

the outer birch shape to form the final

cupboard design.

1 2 3 4

Bathroomcabinet.

Tools: quick release clamps


hammer handsaw



drill, with wood bits pencil

The door is 1523mm x 181mm.

The smaller shape with the shelves:

2 x 96mm x 320mm pieces and

2 x 320mm x 1562mm of 18mm pine board.

Shelves:

106mm x 310mm pieces of 6mm pine board.

Ingredients:Cupboard outer:


2 x 360mm x 1564mm pieces of 18mm birch ply.

Inner shape with the door:


2 x 340mm x 1562mm pieces of pine board.

21

Recipe: Making the frame.Mitre the two 500mm x 75mm and the two

800mm x 75mm ply strips at both ends.

Glue the 70mm x 500mm strips to the back of

the 500mm mitred strips, making a piece that

looks like the one above.

The outer edges should be lined up, leaving a

5mm step on the inside.

Assembling the frame.When the glue is set, glue the mitred 75mm x

800mm pieces to the strips you’ve joined

together to make a frame.

Finally, when all of this is dry, glue the

70mmx 650mm strips to the rear side of the

frame, making a complete 2-layer 6mm ply

sandwich frame.

The front will have mitred corners and the

rear will have butting joins and a rebate to

take the mirror.

Finishing the mirror.Cut a 350mm x 22mm slot in the centre of the

top of the frame. The cleanest way to do this is

with a router and a small sized cutter, as the ply

can split very easily.

I have also run around the perimeter of the slot

with a sharp knife to keep the edge as crisp

as possible.

Finally the mirror can be fixed into the frame. I

have used some clear silicone which can be

cleaned from the mirror side if necessary.

Making the blocks.I’ve used the oak blocks as an attractive way

of hanging the mirror.

Mark the centre of one of the ends by crossing

pencil lines corner to corner. Drill a pilot hole

at this point to take a 4.5/5mm screw. The

thread should be at least 75mm long.

Screw in about half the length of the screw

and then cut the head off with a hacksaw.

The blocks can now be fixed into any wall

using the appropriate rawlplug fixing.

1 2 3 4

Mirror.

Tools: pencil



junior hacksaw handsaw


masonry drill bits wood glue

skeleton gun quick release clamps

clear silicone mitre block

Ingredients:The frame is made from strips of 6mm birch ply:

2 pieces 75mm x 500mm



2 pieces 70mm x 500mm.

The oak hangers are 20mm x 60mm x 100mm.

23

Recipe:This panelling can be fixed directly to any wall

using a building adhesive and is a quick way to

cover poor quality wall surfaces.

First draw a horizontal level line to determine

your height.

Check if the walls are vertical. If they are, you

can start straight away, by applying adhesive to

the wall and pressing the panel firmly in position.

Start in a corner, working right to left.

If the walls aren’t vertical, your first panel will

need to be cut to fit, making sure that the left

hand edge is vertical.

Continue connecting the panels together using

the tongue and groove system. There is no need

to apply adhesive to the tongue or groove.

A moulded, traditional style dado rail can be

added to finish the edges and create a period

feel. Use a plain rail or shelf for a more

contemporary look.

If your walls are very uneven, or have pipe work

clipped to them, it is a good idea to add

softwood battens first.

You may need to pack-out behind them to keep

the front faces level.

Check how far any pipes stick out to determine

the thickness of the battens.

Make sure you leave access for any shut-

off valves.

Run the battens at 90˚ to the panelling, which

can then be ‘secretly’ nailed through the tongue

using panel pins.

Having a batten also gives additional fixing

possibilities for small top rails that can act

as a shelf.

This is great for displaying all those bits of

volcanic rock, driftwood and meaningful

pebbles I know you all have in a shoebox

under the stairs.

1 2 3 4

Panelling.

Tools: pencil


hammer spirit level

drill, with masonry bits handsaw

nail punch wood glue

skeleton gun building adhesive

Ingredients:Pre-finished tongue and groove panelling is easily

installed and can add character to any room.

Unfinished panelling, which can be stained, oiled,

painted or varnished, is also widely available.

25

Recipe:Make sure you use kiln-dried timber. Unwrap

the boards and leave them for a few days in

their new environment before laying.

Leave an expansion gap of 5 – 8mm all round.

This will be concealed by the skirting.

Remember to use a membrane, whether laying

your floor directly to the joists or onto a

concrete scree.

If you are laying the floor directly onto joists,

you can nail ‘secretly’ straight through from the

tongue to the joist.

If you are laying onto a concrete scree, you will

need to fix battens and add insulation bats.

The battens are screwed to the floor.

Glue the tongues and then ‘secretly’ nail in

position. Use a nail punch to make sure the head

of the nail is below the surface of the timber.

Stagger the joints when connecting the tongue

and groove end-to-end. This will create a stronger

overall surface and look better, too. Joins all lined

up every other row tend to draw attention.

It is also a good idea to try and lay the flooring

running parallel to the longest measurement of

the room, or to follow the natural direction of

light from a window.

The tongue and groove should be a tight

fit and will need help making a close joint

by using the age old skill of 'applying

the hammer'.

Use an off-cut, with the groove to one

end as shown, to help minimise any splitting

or crushing.

Finish with matching skirting, either plain for

a contemporary look, or moulded for a more

classic feel.

1 2 3 4

Flooring.

Tools: pencil


hammer jigsaw

nail punch wood glue


masonry drill bits handsaw

Ingredients:Specially manufactured tongue and groove solid pine

flooring, kiln-dried to 8-10%. Pre-finished.

Unfinished flooring, which can be stained, oiled,

painted or varnished, is also widely available.

1000 gauge polythene sheet or other underlay.

27

Tools.

Circular Saw

Drill Hinge cutter

Hacksaw (Junior)

Handsaw

Sash cramps

Tenon

marking gauge

Spirit level

Set square

Plane

Pliers

Hammer

Phillips screwdrivers

Flathead screwdriver

Chisel

Quick

release clampFlat wood drill bits Wood drill bits

Masonry drill bits

Jig saw

Router Router bit

Nail punch

A wide range of other manufacturers’ timber products

is available from most timber and builders’ merchants

(see www.ttf.co.uk or www.bmf.org.uk). I used...

FIXBOARD laminated pine boards.

High quality kiln-dried laminated pine sections, bonded

into boards, fine-sanded on all faces and edges and

precision cut.

Ess-Enn Skrufs Tra AB

www.ess-enn.co.uk 01206 548808

Solid timber flooring.

High quality kiln-dried solid pine boards. Tongued and

grooved on all edges for easier fixing and available in

different thicknesses, widths, lengths and finishes (I’ve

used a white oil finish). For fixing to existing floors, or

directly onto timber joists.

Manufacturer: Baseco

www.baseco.se

UK Distributor: Swiftwood Imports Ltd

www.swiftwood.co.uk 01945 587000

UK Importer: Setra Sales UK Ltd

www.setragroup.se 01883 627527

BRICOLUX interior pre-finished cladding.

Factory pre-finished cladding, tongued and grooved on all

four sides, available in a range of colours and stains.

Hoebeek Belgium

www.hoebeek.be

UK Importer: Taylor Maxwell Timber Ltd

0113 2744655

Solid Pine.

Planed square edged pine boards are generally

available in three main grades and a wide

range of thicknesses and widths.

Available from most UK timber and builders’

merchants.

Plywood

Scandinavian birch plywood is available in a

wide range of surface specifications, thicknesses

and widths.

Manufacturer: UPM-Kymmene Ltd

www.wisa.com

UK Distributor: James Latham Plc

www.lathamtimber.co.uk 01708 864477

Finishes

ICI can supply a comprehensive range of timber

finishes, stains, varnishes and paints.

Manufacturer: ICI Woodcare

www.duluxtrade.co.uk 01753 550000

www.cuprinol.co.uk

Also available from leading DIY stores and timber

and builders’ merchants.

Tools

I’ve used Stanley tools, available from leading

DIY stores and builders’ merchants.

For information and a list of retailers, visit

www.stanleytools.com or call 08701 650650.

Timber and tools...

Mitre block

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wood cookbook...double bed 17 bedroom wardrobe 19 bathroom cabinet 21 mirror 23 panelling 25...

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