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     3 50

    OT S ROM TH SHOP

    O 60

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      x

    Sawdust

     

    ~

    Numbet60 December, 1988

    ABoU r'I1DS ISS1l& Hls(J>ryrepeats itself,

    So

    fro', we'.e added the supplies fO I'

    01  

    so they say. 1 hadn' t really thought three of these ast projects. First is the

      d i t f

    D onald B . Peschke

    m uch about that in term s of

    WOOI/8lnitlt

    c lo ck m ov em en t e ith er b ra ss ke yw in d o r

    Des1gn Oiroct' Ted Kral ic ek

    until

    we started work 011

    this issue .

    q uart1 Jb I(~ Ij'), d ia l, d oo r g lass (w hich is

    IVoodsmith actually got started in Jul y

    stenciled as Shown in the iSsue) .00 the

    Man agingEdl lO (OOuglas  HickS

    1978 when I b eg an wO lokon t he

    first

    issue,

    hardw are for the Regulalol' C lo ck sh ow n

    AsSiS1an1dIIOtSOOug la s M .L i d ste r

    As it

    tarns-out, ninety-nine years earlier,

    in Wood.mill . No. 36 .

    K ent A . Bucklon

    in May 18'1 ll, my gI'eat go mdfather, Em il

    As

     

    re l u lt o f a

    number

    o f

    . reques ts , we

    ProjectDesigner K en Munk el

    P es ch ke , s ta rte d hL~0 '1 1 c omp an y - .

    are of\.rillg more Choices for the Cradle

    TecIJricaImUSltalorsDavid K re yli ng

    'W hy am I 'mentio ning this now? The

    sh own in Wt)Qd 8 ,ilit N o. 48. The cradle

    com pany E mil started was a Manu fac-

    was o ig inally shown in oak. W e new ofi;er

    Cary Chr is tensen

    turer of aU kinds of Mou ldin gs, P ic ture

    the spindles (and the buttons)

    ill

    oa k.

    RodStoakes

    Frames and Curtain Pole s. (I'm lu ck y

    ch err y   ar id walnut,

    C h ri s G lowacki

    enougll

    to

    bave one of U ,e business forms  fyo u w an ted

    to

    bu ild the E u''O pean

    Cu~omef

    e r v i c e

    S andy B aum , Mgr. he used back th en, W e incorporated it in to

    W o rk be nch sh own in W oodsmill, No. 50 ,

    J ac kie S tro ud th e

    COVel

    photo of th is issue. )

    YOI lm ay have had trouble getting the

    P at K oo b

    So , il ls co ming full cyc le ,

    and

    I m ti lW J ;y

    vises. It w as   Io t the faul~ of \V oodcran .

    Usa Thompson getting' around to making the picture

    S up ply (th e m ail-Ol- de r s ou rc e w e lis le d).

    ProjectSuppl ies le slie A nn Gearhart

    fram es that seem to be part of m y heii·

    T hey did an ad mirable jo b of trying

    r o get

    Terry

    J.

    Strohman

    l age .

    or

    cou rse, the m oldings w e're sh ow-

    an d keep the vises in stock. The problem

    Com puter0_10   K en M in e,

    in g in this issue

    ate

    not nearly as ornate

    was

    with

    Ole manufacturer.

    as t],ose E mil made 100 years ago. Bul

    W e have talked directly w ith the man-

    AdminiSlrallv e

    ssIS

    Cheryl Sco lt

    st yles

    change.

    u fa c1 ;w 'e a nd h av e re ce iv ed . shipm ent of

    Jean Carey

    PICT UllE fR AM ES. W hat w as so m uch

    th e v ises for th e w orkb ench. Y ou C lUIstill

    Ekt lld lngM alnlonatlC8Archie Kra us e

    run},

    tll Ugll 

    was ~n li ng up \vith a va rie t y

    order from Wo odc, ' lIf t. SUpp ly , and we are

    of frames using a Hm ited amount of also b ing

    to

    K eep som e on band.

    The W oodsm ith Store

    machinery. W e decid ed to limit the work

    lJl O JT6M.S .One of U ,e things I didn't

    to

    u sing a ro uter table

    to

    fo rm th e p ro fil es .

    mention was the .ddition of the logo

    I

    pe t.lio ns S te ve K ro hm er

    T his m ea nt we had to m ak e a ll th e p ro files .

    items,

    : l Ve

    new

    h av e a l5 hO I a pro n a c offe e

    Mrukel in g

    M a nager S te ve O o zie r

    w ith ro uter b its. Is

    this

    too limiting ?

    mug . and 8 corduroy cap - all \\ith the

    A t firs t, I th ou gh t i~ w ou ld b e. But , then

    Woodsl lwh lo go O n th em .

    St ore Managers : [ b eg an looking at the dozens of router bit

    To

    be

    hon est abo ut, all th is, I resisted

    Stlouis. M O Jo n Behrle profi les available. '1 'h ere w ere a ctu ally to o

    oO 'e ri ug t his tY lle o f th in g fo r m an y y e,,': .

    E k H I e I e y

    CA Micha el D eH av en

    m any choiees. So, we look anothel' ap-

    But what triggered it was a sim ple need.

    DosM91nos ,A Ken t Welsh

    preach. All of the pl'O fil es are made by

    I w an te d a good shop M )I'On.

    using on ly three standard router bi t

    1 1 0-

    T he ty pical blue denim ones I've seen in

    WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114 ) is pub-

    6 Ie s (s n'a ig 'h t, r ou nd -o ve r, a ne c or a b ox ).

    so me catalog s an d stores ju st w eren't th e

    li sh ed b imonlh ly (February . A pril. Ju ne. Au-

    Using

    < l i f f C \  e n t

    siz es o f the se bits , we

    q ua lity I w an te d. A nd w orse. the p ock ets

    gust. October, D ecem ber) JelyWoodsmi lh

    were

    able to

    c o m e

    up

    with

    several

    dozen

    were

    to o

    small and in the wrong places.

    PU ti lishlng Co., 2200 Grand Ave .• Des

    profiles. 'T hen it becam e a m atter of eh oos-

    So ,

    we- d esig ne d o ur o wn , A etu ally , T erry

    Moilles . IA50312.

    ing

    whi ch o ne s

    to

    show il l

    th is i ss ue .

    Strohm ro, desi~l it ... .

    Woodsmi th is a registered tradem ark of

    IVe s ettled on 10 pl'o file s. S om e a re v ery

    NEW FACES. 'l'erry joined O UI' PI'Oject

    Woodsmilh PubUSIling

    Co.

    sim ple, som e are complex . The key to th e

    SUpp ly team this post

    fall

    He

    worked

    in

    ~Copyright 1988

    b Y

    Woodsmlth Publis~ing

    complex ones is that t~y

     8

    ,-eaUyjus t

    th e IVoodlm til h Stlll  C here in Des Molnos

    C o. A llRigl\ts li1 eservl9d.

    combinations of the sim ple ones. That is,

    for about a year. Then we re cru ited h im

    Subscriptions: One year (6 issues ) $12.95.

    th e c omp le x mo < ling sw e'r e s how in g d on 't

    to hel p \\ith the  front end' w ork for the

    Two Years (12 issues) $ 22 .9 5. Canad a and

    ha ve

    t o

    be one strip of

    wood

    th at's formed

    projecL supplies .

    For ei gn: add $2 per yea r. U .s . fu~ onlY .

    by a very com plex bit.

    In ,ujdifio n to de sig Jl in g t he shop apron

    Sing le co py p ric e, $3 .50 .

    Instead , m ake sev eral strips w ith just

    and gettl g the other Jo go item s lille d up,

    Second Glass Postage Paid at ee s

    one p l'O f ile on ea ch snip . T hen jo in (hem

    T erry has been w orking on all the details

    Moine s, Iowa

    together. Combinations like this are al 

    you never th ink about . . . IN tting tele-

    Postmaster: Sen d ch ange 01 address to

    m ost endles s. All tha t, has to be done is to

    pho ne  ~n fo r lh e S OOn um ber, design.

    WOOdsm ilh,BOx4~1, M t. Morrls.IL 61054.

    find new ways of ar ranging the strip s to

    ing the form s needed

    to.

    take orders and

    S UB SC RIP TIO N Q UE STIONS? Cal l to ll

    create new profiles. It's just a m atter of

    to

    ship them , and b:ying to think of w sys

    fr ee 800 -435 -0715 (Ill inoisI'QSidentscall 800 ·

    us ing YOlU  imagination.

    to make the e ntire p ro ce ss m o re e ffic ie nlc

    89 2· 0753). H Gurs: 7;30 AM 10 8:30 PM ,

    PROJE CT SU ppLJ.£ . In the last issue, [ He has had several head,  'hes.

    Cen tra Time. wee kday s only.

    talked about ~he project supplies for the

    But th ings are p,'Ogres.;ing. And with

    B AC K IS SU ES : Fora Iree booklet deseri '-

    projects

    sh o\\ tn

    in

    \  ood smillt

    We are

    Ten-y's help , we hope to orre,' a idel'

    in g a ll o[ the baI lk]ssues. sen d 1 0

    Woodsmi th 

    b eg in nin g to g o back t o p ''O jeets sho wn in

    range of se,'V ice for allll 'ood~mit1t. project

    I

    2 00 < >randAve ., Des M ornes ,lA 50312 .

    Pllst issues and b.' j?ng to fin d SOIlrolS for supplies .

    SA MPLE C O PY: W e w illSend a fre e sampla

    th ose su pplies . (For some of these post

    NEXTMAILING.T he .ext issu e o f Wood·

    oopy 01 Woodsmi th to a nyone. Just send us

    projects. \V e s o m e ti m es l isted a so urc e

     mit will be m ail~ during \he week of

    his /her ,name and ad dress.

    th at h as sin ce sto pp ed ca rry ing the item s.)

    F eb ruary 27, 1 989 .

     

    \VOOOSMITH

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    3

    OODSMITH

    RIGHT LENGTHON SHORT DOWELS

    I lise

    qu ito II few short

    dowels

    ro r glui ng

    joints together. AntJ.>lia

    To   > the jig, align the tene e so th e

    blad e fi l.ll into the k.. 'f slot. Insert the

    dowel stock into the correct diameter

    ho le

    un til th e

    end of the dowel is against the

    r e n e e .

    Now hokl the jig

    and dow e l

    and

    cu t

    through

    the dowel. Slowly

    back

    the jig

    out, and p h

    th e

    tini~

    owel out the

    e dge or the jig u.

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    W OOOSM 1TH

    4

    R A B B E T P E T A I L

    goove

    D E T A i l

    Non,

    SOTH   IO ES C U T

    fR OM O NE L HK

    @

    5 10 £ B Am

    ...,.,.. 1

    0/.)(

    14 -

    13V.

    0 •

    6 /.. 160/.

    V. •

    12  - 1M .

    v... 7 - 160/.

    Y.x91~ 19

    A SId.. 12)

    8 RI_ I

    C Slop I

    o . . . .  ,.,.1 (1)

    E

    U cI

     1

    Owtoll Dimensions 19 w )( 14\ - d x 14  h

    ¥/

    s ,, -

    72

    A A

    ~

    v .  

    1t

    5 1.  _

     

    I

    A

    I.

     EE

    v .   1 1. 

    72

    I

    a c c

    0

      j

    M AnRIA l.S LIST

    CunlNG DIAGRAM

    Life is to o

    short.

    For a four -y e ar -o l d,

    tIl.t

    means yo u

     J

    s tool because yo u're to o

    short to

    reach

    the

    sink

    to

    brush

    your

    teeth,

    For an adul t. it means you're still using

    th e same

    stool to reach

    all th e way back

    o n the

    top

    shelf o C the ki tcl len cab ine ts.

    Fo r th ls project .

    we

    u sed • basie

    ap

    proach. The

    step

    stool is

    m ade of

    < o m m o n

    pine, which is a no th er w ay o f say in g

    it

    ha s

    a  

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    1   -

    D DO

    f lGURE-

    ROUT GROOVE fO R RI~1t

    t:1

    GUIDE JIG

    O J  

    u

    .C)

     

    RO UT R AB 8fT fO R B ACK P o N R

     

    -

     

    t_j

    GUlOE JtG

     

    [ : >

    1r

      e p  

    TEP 3

     

    5

      TE P

     

    R OU T R tG HT 101 :

      O T T O M O   II O

    S TE P 1

    RO UT

    lff T

    S IDE

    BOTJOM D A DO

    GU  DE

     J I

    UID I

    JIG

    RGURf

    NOE~  AC~K~~~

    ROU T IN iDGE:

    Qlllt fcn oN

    O F A RR OW

    ClA MP JK

    TO WORKI tECf

    WOODSMITH

    C U T B LA NK IN HA LF

    Alter the routing is complete, you call cut

    the blank in half to

    create

    two mirrored

    side pieces.

     I D

    do this, start by

    rougl 

    cutting the blank in half with ~he miw 

    gauge on the table saw,

    To get the two side pieces

      t o  t y

     

    s m finished length, set the rip fence

    1314 from the blade, see FJg. 6, Theil

    cut each piece with the   ouom edge

    against the rip fence.

    the c : u t edge is exactly in linewith the path

    of the bit. see Fig. 2 .

    ROUTING

    Alte r the jig is complete, it can be used to

    rout the two dadoes , the groove, an d the

    .-abbe~on the blank.

    ROUT DADOJl.S.

    Before routing,

    I

    clam ped

    the side blank (A) on to p of

    a

    co u ple

    of sawhorses, see

    Fig . 8 .

    1lhen

    T

    clamped the jig in place so its edge is

    al igned with the left edge of the lett dado

    line, see Soop 1, F ig . 4 .

    S e t

    the depth

    of

    the router bit

    so

    it cuts

    a

    Y ,

    -deepgroove in the blank- taking into

    consideration the thickness of the jig s

    base .

      Sinee

    the

    base

    of my jig was   -

    thick, I set the del)th of cut at ~ .)

    Now set the router against the fenceof

    the jig and cut the groove, moving D Om

    the back edge of the blank toward the

    front edge, see Soop J in Fig. 4.

    ShOI)Note: Sint-ethe router bit is t u rn -

    ing clockwise, routing this direction actu

    ally

    pushes the router

    base

    tight agains~

    th e fe nce ,

    STOP THE DADO. This dado is stopped

    o / / from the fr Ontedge to keep it from

    showing on the fr Ontedge of the stool.

    Waleh the layout linesand stop when the

    bit touches the stop line.

    seCOND DADO  Next move the jig

    down to the dado 0.1 the other end and

    followthe same procedure, see Step 2.

    GROOVE After these t\VO dadoes are

    routed, turn the jig 90 and clampit sothe

    edge al igns with the layout line fo.  the

    groove for the riser, see Step 3. This

    groove starts in the dado on the left and

    stops in the dado on the right,

    Shop Note: Instead of trying to plunge

    the bit exactly in the left dado, I plunged

    the router bit a little ahead (to the right)

    of the dado. TheilIheld the router firmly

    and movedit backwards until it broke into

    the dado.

    BACK RABBET The last thing is to rout

    the rabbet for the back panel, Since this

    rabbet is ¥ I¥ wide, and the bit

    is

      h wide

    it has to be routed in two steps.

    First, align the edge of the jig with the

    inside layout line and rout a ~N·,\ ide

    groove , see Step 4. Then move the jig

    toward you about

    y , ;

    and make another

    pass to clean out the remaining waste, see

    Fig 

    5,

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    \

    CO MPLETE  T I l SID ES

    Now that th e two s id e p ie r

    (8) are joined to the sid   b y c uttin g

    rabbets

    on

    the ends to

    form

    t ongues that

    lit th e d ad oes

    3nd

    grooves in the side

    p ie ce s. (I used to ng ue s h er e for. cleaner

    appearance. Any variation.<

    in the tongue

    t IUckoess a re h id de n inside

    the

    join .)

    T o cut the rabbets. mount a 1 ' < ' dado

    blade on the saw and rai se i ~ above

    the table, 800 Fig. 9.

    Before cu tt ing the ~.

    ched<

    the saw

    set-up

    by

    cu ttin g rab bets o n

    the

    cnd of a

    piece

    of

    scrap that ·s the same

    thicknc.;s.

    Af ter

    the

    tongue on

    the

    t . e s t

    board

    fiUl

    the

    ~. groove,

    cut

    to~ on bo th ends of

    the front riser (8)

    and

    step

    (C).

    TRIM BACK TONGUK.

    The

    tongue o n th o

    front edge of lbe step (C ) h .. to be

    Irimmed

    back to fit the stopped dado.

    Ir immed

    the

    tongue in tw o

    8l.eps,

    se e

    Fig. 1 0. First.

    cut

    the tongue

    V

    fr om th e

    fron t edg e stop pin g sho rt o f O 'e .houlder .

    see S tep 1 . T h en c his el d ow n

    01 1

    the front

    edge to rem ove the w aste, see S tep 2 .

    W O O D S M IT H

    6

    S TE P 3

    DETAIL

    ©

    S T P

    ,,'

    ClNf alO

    T our

    lOrn

     NOS

     

    (i)

    RISER

    toU 

    E A S U ~ N J - l ' j

     

    BA CK PA Ne l

    ~ _ o o t -

    \.

    - - - - - - - -

    R I G H T

    IWO) ..

     

    - _

    IGURE •

    -

    ~

    J_

    .L.  

    ....,_. \

    ton  IM

    INSID

    . . CU1S1Dl

    7· - lOGlS01

      n

    A HD IftONT

    fO

    1.  •

     

    s l o e

    ,

    .

     

    I

    .f_

    FlGURI7

    I I U L I H O S &

    OllIS

    IO 0Hi SO

    fIG.  

    r

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    7

    OODSMITH

     

    STlIln

    PlATE

     

    .

     

    CATCH

    1 ; 1

    DETAi l

    Y o ~ -

     

    UD

     

    U L l O   ~ ~

    v W ID E R T H N

    TO P OF STOOl

    ®_ t1

    UD

    OVERHANG

    DETAi l

     

    CHiSEl OUT

    R A B B E T

    so

    S A C K

    P Nt\ W J U . IE

    F l U S H + - - + -

    W fJ t I

    BOl lO

    O F S TtP

     

    . A

    £1

    uo

    F I G U R E 13

    OUtE

    s r I E

    @

    B A C K PA N E L

    @

      ~

    DOwa

    J tUG

    bullnose the front edge ( 1 ;00 S tep S ) using

    the s amep r oc e du re a s on the side panels.

    aOT'rOM END OF RABBE'I'. There are

    two mo re s te ps b efo re assembly. The

    bot

    tom end of the rabbet has to be chiseled

    out so the back panel (0) wil l a lign with

    the bottom of the step (C), see Fig. 1 2.

    Alter the rabbet-is cleaned out, trim th e

    back pane l

    so

    the

    to p

    edge

    aligns

    with tbe

    top of the sides, see Fig. 11.

    A SS EMBLY

    Once all of the pieces are cut to fit, as

    sembly

    ca n begin.

    DRILL PILOT HOLES.Start

    by clamping

     

    pieces toge the without glue.  put a

    pipe damp across the top and another

    between the a r c l in the bottom. (Check

    that the step

    6ts

    tight against the back

    panel.) Then drill pilo  holes through   e

    shank holes for No . 8

    .x

    1 V w oodscrews .

    GLUE AND SCREW. Take the pieces

    apa rt

    and put some glue in the dado,

    groove rabbet and between the

    riser

    and

    step. Then clamp it back together and

    tighten down We s cre ws Alter the glue

    dried, Iplugged the screw boles with  '

    dowels and trinnned the dowels off -Il u sh ,

    LID

    The only

    thing

    left

    is

    to make the lid (E).

    Start

    by edge-gluing two pieces of

     1( .  

    pin_together. Then cut the lid 1 0 / . 0 wider

    than the distance from the front edge of

    the riser

     8

    to the back -edge of the back

    panel

    (0), S\ Fig.

    1 4.

    Finally,

    ell~

    t lV,'

    longer than the width or the stool ( 19 ).

    HINGE MORTISES.

    The lid is held to the

    stool with butt hinges, see Fig.

    13.

    To

    mou n t

    the

    hinges ,

    Ioutlined

    each

    hinge in the top of the back panel. Then I

    routed out the mlliolity . o f the was t e and

    cleaned up to the line with

    a c hisel.

    Now sere  ,   th e h in ge s into th e mort i ses

    so the front of the hinge aligns with, the

    inside .edge

    of the back panel. Then center

    the

    li d

    on the top of the stool and mark

    the location of the hinges on the back edge

    of the l id, see Overhang Detail in Fig. 14 .

    Outline

    this

    mortise with a chisel ao

     t

    1 from the bact. edge, see Fig. 13.

    (This allows the lid to overhang  > f I off the

    back, see D.etail in Fig. 14.)

      fter the

    hinge mortises

    are cut rout

    the

    bulln

    o se pro file-o n

    all four edges of the

    lid. Then l ; CI CW the hinges in place.

    CHAIN.To keep the lid from falling back

    when it's open, r screwed anll'·long brass

    chain

    to the bettom of th.lid, see Fig. 14.

    CATCH.J found that I always t ilted the

    stool on the edges of tho lid, put

    it

    swung

    down because the f ont edge wasn't air

    tached. S o I mounted an elbow catch on

    the bottom of the lid and a strike plate on

    the riser, see Catch Detail in Fig. 14.

    FtNJSH.r finished the step stool with

    two coats of satin polyuretli'ane varnish.

    flGUR£

    The final operation on the step is to

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    WOODSMITH

    S T R A IG HT B IT

    TW IS T D O WE l

    COUNTERCLOC I CW t SE

    W HILE RfotNG

    D OW N W A A O

    the end of the dowel

    stops

    aj,>ainstthe

    Masonite

    base.

    Then oo1 i f .doo»

    k

    ei 

    all the way

    push and

    turn

    using even

    pre s sure

    until aJ'Oundthe stretcher dowel,

    8

    D lt ll

    V  :

     

    C I HO L E

    Tlloo_

    2 4 8lOCK

    FlGURf

    Granted, this easel is very basic in

    design. But it incorporates a variety of

    different

    techniques

    that make it

    more

    inteteSiing to build than tl e finished

    product might suggest.

    The most unique and challenging

    techniques

    wet

    creating round tenons

    on the ends of the dowels, and drilling

    nniformly·spaeed holes to hold the gal.

    lery Spilldles, reIer

    to

    Fig. 5. The fun

    part. was making the jigs that made

    both of these

    op erations

    easy.

    T NNONIN JI

    Befol'e I started to make the easel, I

    made a small jig to cut round tenons on

    the ends of the stretcher dowels. The

    jig holds the dowel vertically SOa'round

    te no n c an be cut on a T o ute r

    ta ble. ,

    To make the jig, all you need is a

    piece

    o f 2 x4 sc rap  some  h I ?tlasoJute

    and a   straight router bit. Start. by

    ripping a bW.Jongpiece of 2x4 down to

    2

    wide and turn it on edge. Then drill

    a hole the

    size

    of the stretcher dowel

    ( .) toward one end of the block

    and

    centered on its willlh, See Fig. 1.

    AiWr the hole is drilled through, tack

    a piece of v Masonite

    0 1 1

    ihe bottom

    of the block. This serves as a base plate

    for the jig. (Keep the tacks away from

    the hole.)

    S&'I.'I'ING

    lJ'.

    Now, to make a tenon.

    mou.nt a

     

    stnUght bit in the l'OUter

    table. P :ice the block agaillS'

    tJ,~

    fence

    of the router table and adjust the fence

    so the bit is C 6.1lettd on the end of the

    block, refer

    to

    J ig. I. Then rail;e the bit

    until its heigbt above the table equals the

    length of the tenon yOI1 want

      An ,

    plus

    the thickness of the \ <   Masonite.

    After the router table

     

    se~ up, push

    the jig along the fence moving from right

    to lett until tbe bit cuts abou~·halfw.y into

    the :y,; ' hole. Now it's just • matter of

    fine-tuning to get the OOI1'ectsi?.etenon.

    SUtr l

    by tunting off the 'outer and look

    _ _ _ D _ i s ~ l a y ,_ E _ a _ s _ e _ l _

    SHOW YOUR ART EASILY

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    9

    C R O S S

    secnos

    O T E : SI INOt,I.S  tAVAIlAILE,

    Sl E so uaas ON PAGE 24

    D E C OR A T IV E S T RE T CH E R

    OOW El RA il

    _

    z w oce

    SCitFN

    ctNTfJl

    S lR ef Ct l ER

    o o w t A I L S

    ONOllutn

    ·

    I

    .

     

    .

    · .

    R G UI t I 7

    NOff,

    M A l t (

    to

    I D E S

    W f T H

    SQUAll, ClN'TtItf'OlN1

    IS

    e nwtfN

    MA.US

     

    NOTE,

    ENOSOF nHONS-

    ANCt

    .n o

    M U  l

    a E R U S H

     

    1 1.·

     

    ~

    - - . : ' . .

    1~

    ~

    1 ~..-

     

    gos~( ;UON

    (tNO Vltw)

    17 

    /

    n L LAY 0U1 . ..... a

    Jo IUOl UNts   t.l e o TOf

    A N D lo rrO M D O W E lS

     Y f }

    ill l

     : 2 

    _

    U P R IG H T

    STRETCHER

    OO W EL

    _fOUIl

    N O T E : P R E S SD O w n

    AGAINST FEN(:E

    mEN ROU INTO

    RGUJlf 3

    S U P P O R T

    STRETCHER

    OOW EL

      _I

    CENTER  ' .. om IC tlf ON ON E

    Uf Il lGtiT S T R E t C H E R O Q w a

      _  

     

    WOODSMITH

    G A L L E R Y R A IL

    T w o of the 17'· lon g

    stre tcher dowels are

    used to m ake a decorative rail

    at

    the top

    of the easel . T hese two dow els are held

    L O g eth er w ith 12 decorative  gallery

    spindles

    (C l.

    re fe r LO F ig . 8. (S ee Sourees,

    page 2,1. 

    DR ILL . IN GJI G . D rill ing the holc~ ror

    these spindles

    wilS

    unoth er ehal lengo. T o

    'hi ll these holes .

    r

    mode a sim ple < :e nt eri ng

    jig w ith a couple pieces of  Y.   plywood,

    see

    P ig

    5.

    First. eu~tw o V '·wide < b < J o e ; on th e

    inside feee of each plywood piece, se e

    Detail in Fig. 5. Then to hold the tw o

    pieces of pl ywood t og \l th er, dri ll a se ri es

    of

    holes

    fol 2

    v

    ·J on g s c re w s s e e

    Cro~

    Sec tion inFig. 5.

    Now in s e rt the top tw o stretcher dowels

    (A l into

    the

    jig. ( ' 'he end grain of

    the

    dowels

    s h o ul d

    b e v er ti ca l.

    T h i s

    b a l l

    to

    do

    \lith the w e d g e s that are added later to

    th e

    ends of the dow els, refer to F ig. 15.)

    S tand

    th e

    jig on end to mak e sure the

    end s of both dowe li l a rc O u£ h w ith th e end

    of the ji g. T hen gently tighten dow n all of

    th e s cre w s to secure b oth d ow els in th e

    d a d oes be tween

    the

    tw o p ly w oo d p ie ce s.

    L A Y 011l 'B O LE S .T o m ake sure the hole..

    a re s p a ce d

    evenly. Im arked reference

    l in es Iv..' apart on the top of the jig, see

    I·~g.5. Use n square to contin ue these

    re fe re ne e li nes on the sid e a nd bottom o f

    the jig so the holes in the bottom dow el

    a re a li gn ed th e sa m e _ Fig. 5.

    RBP ' ERENC E

    UNES.

    A D e r

    1Il3l iting

    al l of

    the reference line-so draw a centerline

    d o w n the length of the dow el T his can b e

    difficult,so I w ;O O • l i ttle centering trick.

    Set

    the

    end

    of n

    combin ation

    square so

    it ', inlellUo> ,lly ju st

    short

    of

    the

    m iddl e

    of the dowel and make a reference m ark.

    Then

    n ip

    the combination square over

    against the other .ide

    of the jig

    and make

    • s ec ond r ef er en ce mlui

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    THE F RA M E U PR IG H TS

    After th e round tenons are cut on the ends

    of th e stretcher d ow els. w ork ca n

    begin

    on

    the long upright pieces Cor the easel frame.

    To m ake the front uprights (I). Iipped

    4/4

    sto ck

    ( ¥,. actual thickne •• ) IV

    w id e b y 66 long, see F ig . 9 .

    DRILL HOLl S. T h e se upri¢lL

    pieces

    are

    joined

    together to the stretcher

    dowels

    by

    drilling four

    y,'-dJa.

    holes in each uprighL

    Two of the d ow el h ole s a re c en te red an d

    I from

    each end, see Detail in Fig.

    9.

    Another hole is located

    2 4 from

    the

    top

    en d of each

    upright.

    There is o ne m ore b ole n ea r the top of

    e a c h upright

    fo r

    the

    bottom

    do el   the

    gallery rail. To lo ca te this hole,

    measure

    the d is ta nc e b etw e en the tenons on the

    a ss emb l ed g a ll er y rail, se e D etail in Fig .

    9. N ow

    drill

    the e ig h t h ole s

    on both

    front

    uprights , se e Fig . 9.

    PEG HOL£S. The picture/art C rame.

    placed OD th e e ase l a re su pp orted by   ti e

    pe gs.

    (See

    S ou rces , p age

    24.) Dri l l

    3

    series of holes on the front edge of

    the

    front uprighl>; fo r these pegs, I C< l ~ ig.9.

    SUPPORT P IlM f.& . 11 .e sam e

    b..

    ,,;c

    pro

    cedure is foU owed U) make th e two ICg l I

     E)

    for th e su ppo~ Ih.m c, The   two leg s

    O J cu t lV,' wid e by

    o W V .

    long , se e f. 'ig .

    10. Then m ark th e centerpoiJ1Ls fo r th o

    ho les at the ends.

    There 's one cha nge tho ugh. 'I'lte holes

    ab the

    top end s

    of thes e leg'll ar c

     y ,  

    diameter

    (the

    full di am ewr of the dowel)

    ins tead of

    ¥ . e

    di am et er. This w a y the

    middle dowel ca n slide all th e way through

    this hole, so th e tenon fits Into tho front

    upright , refer to

    Detail

    in Fig .

    17 .

    After th e

    0/.,'

    -dia. Lop holes are drilled ,

    drill the remaining

    four

    M o -dia,

    h ole s f or

    the

    other two d ow els, see Fig . 10.

    LO C I( B AR

    These

    tw o

    frames

    are conn ected w ith a

    lock bar (Fl, see Fig . 11.The leng th

     

    th e

    lock bar

    is

    the ke y to th e an gle o f th e e ase l

    D uring the

    design phase, w e deter

    m in e d

    the

    length

    to get

    an II  angle Cor

    the easel. This length aloo detAtnnilll>dthe

    posit ion

    of

    the middle stretdler dowel on

    th e

    support frame.

    HOtf

      .-

     

    D E T A I L

    GAUfRY HOlE

    IV.·

    - G f

    o r . •

    ..L~.__ /

    1-.  ..

     

    fRONT ....-/

    UPRlGHTS

    ,¥.  t

    ON Tor ND OF RONT

    Uf'UGHTS (S EE D TAl l,

    P . . E l A I I .

    AtONTUNIGKl IOnOM (NO

    .,;. THtouGH HO,, S

    AGUaf 9

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    IN I O CIC

      liN

    P L A C  

    C i) loo( 8AII

     

    m

    NOTE: A$SfM6.LE iU~T

    f

    ANO

    S T lllQ i£ R O O W DS

    to

    ON U . IO 'fJ

     lei , TH IN A nAOf OTH ER U I tI OHT

     

    I lETM

    (an AWAY V IE W)

    MIDOI . f

    -- - S T t E T oc.tlt

    .. ,-p

    dow el throUgl l th e top holeR.

    T he front

    Cram.

    i assembled

    by

    first

    II l iding

    tbe

    lock

    ba r (F)

    over the bottom

    .tretcher

    dowel .

    Theil

    glue in the

    Il

    locking Pin. see C I ' O & Sect ion in F ig. 1 1 .

    N ow glue the end.

     

    the bottom dow el as

    wel l as the

    midd le

    an d

    th e to p

    galle'1'

    rail

    between the tw o f ro nt uprights  0 .

    When

    the f rames are glued

    wgether,

    UKe a t oo ll lpick to put Il li tU e glue in lhe

    kerf s, an d pus h th e w ed ges in 1 '1 _ .

    Let

    the glu e dry, then cut tho ends of f and

    sand the m fl ush w ith the surfaee.

    F INISH. W hen everything

    is

    a • •  mbled.

    I sanded the easel f ram e smooth and

    applied two

    eoats

    of Wnltoil h.

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    ROOTING Tlfl l PROFfl E. W hen th e

    strip s are pusl,ec 'througb

    the

    router

    bit,

    u se a con sta nt rate o f fe ed a nd b e p re pare d

    so you don't have to stop at an y tim e. A

    p a u se e a n c r e a te . d im p le 0.  b urn m a rk

    in

    th e prome.

    If p ro file is. d eep o ne, I usually m ake

    one Or two roughing cuts. Then for the

    final cut, I m ake a very light pass t o elean

    u p th e s urfa ce .

    RAlll l&TS. A ll of the p r of i l e s in clu de a

    rabb et o n th e b ack side to hold the picture.

    This rabbet should be at lea st 1 1 0 d eep to

    allow for a piece of glass (usually %to

    W OODSM ITH

    2

     

    han dling .  usually add a fe ll' in ches to

    aUow for the snipe (divot) that o cc urs a t

    the ~l1 1 ing and end of cuts.

    HOI.J)DO WN . Alter the sbips

    are

    cut,

    t he p ro fil es COl be ro u t e d   Th~ key he •..,

    is

    to

    kee p uniform pressure on the strips

    so U te prnflles are alw ays consistent.

    One of the easiest ways to get even

    pressure is

    to

    use a

    grout

    trowel, see

    draw ing below . (These are rubber bot

    tom ed trow els use d

    to

    s m o oth grout when

    inst al li ng ce ramic t il e. T hey 'r e avail able at

    h ardw ar e s to re s an d h om e cen te r s, )

    The

    trowel

    is also a   o o idea b e c a u s e

    it keeps yow ' fingers w ell aw ay from the

    bit w hen routing sm all strips.

    M aking a picture fram e ought to be

    one of the easiest pro jects in wood

    w ooong. It's just four strips of wood

    joined w ith m iters. But there are a

    few

    eensidera tions,

    First,

    of course, is the profil e o f th e

    mold ed pieces. T he easiest way to cu t

    (he profi les is on a ro ute r ta ble u sin g

    st andard router bits,

    At

    first, we

    thought.

    this

    would lim it the v arie ty

    of profiles we co ul d produce. Wrong.

    \  ry quickly we ca me up with

    about three dozen profi les u sing jU$t

    eight standar d router bits. (See

    Sources,

    page 2 4 .   There

    ar e

    d O Z O l l S

    of other options once you ge~ into it.

    On the follow ing pages, are ten

    profiles

    thl lt a re

    ju st

    a

    sampling of the

    profiles

    you can crea te . Itstarts

    with

    a v ery basic m old in g tJ l.~ s m ad e b y ro un d

    in g

    the l i . Qnted ges o f

    s tr ip s

    of

    s t o c k .

    Then

    w e ad ded v ariation s. W hen you get down

    to it, all of

    these

    moldings

    are

    just

    varia-

    tions

    of

    Simple TOuter

    cuts

    CHOOSING THE WOOD

    A lth ou gh an y w oo d

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    W OOOSMITH

    Rabbe t

    i C ld 10

    I Io i d p i ct u re.

    TI .. s l r ip

    i.

    IlIJ.j ·)lttdgold.

     

    A.

    I

     

    ..\.   _

    , . , _ . y . . . ._ _ . .

    C,a a Iwl/ TUI ,dstrip off

    both

    edgeJI

     lIld gt,..

    in lo g ro o lJ C 8.

    CROS S_~~gIO_

    v.~.

    .J.

    If Di O ~1.~

    IN L A Y

     

    to

    II D£D

     Nl Y

    Complete profil IIY routillg

    11 ,'

    COt~on edge o f .tock.

    4

    ~~ ~ ~~

    I

     

    _r~

    r II :

    S ec on d s tr ip is

    out SqI«U' 011(1

    I t I . 1 8

     . . 1 . t QV

    on ous co rne r

    C.,I rabbel first strip

    In

    Mild . ,d slrip

    ilt pl«c~

    .1;110·

    3

    rup

    j,,/oll

    .trip to siz«

    and

    Large strip is made tlu:same

     ,, ,d

    0116)

    both.

     ,IU .

    way

    Oil

    Ihe router lable.

    If you WlUlt to

    add

    color to

    a fram e

    paint

    one

    of

    th e

    strips.

    We

    painted the inside strip on this molding with gOld leaf paint to

    hij(l1lillht th e in sid e e dg e.

    This mokling is mild. by joining two strips. The o uts id e  trip

    starI8 ou t

      v .

    (or

    -Y. )

    th ick b y 1 '1 1i( wide. O Ve U SIld w1IInut

    for this strip.) Then th e e dg es are rounded

    with

    a

    W

    reend-ovee

    bit, (St.

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    S e e o u d

    strip

    i.

    tg robbe t

    for ~ ..  .

     

    .   .  

    J _ · L - - f ~ ~ ~ _ ~ v J l - : · i

    1 . 1

    F ;1I 41I y . trim strip

    d o l · .

    to

    fi t

    rebbet, otld

    glue

    it l.

    p l a c e .

    gQSS s£ gIOJ~

    Sec ond ttrip has wide c e r e I

    . Ul dt wilh ~ ~ 

    . .

    ~~

    COQIOX

    lit

    . .

    ROUIIH

    stVtW

    P A S S l S

    To comp~teth e ._ d .tri p.

    TO,wd

    O tIC r

    th~

    IQ p

    edge.

    Tit-en

    CILt

    a

    or ~ ..

    r o b O e t to < = C » t

    f(((IIrd

    strip 

    Tlum   4 rof( d-OlJ(r:r bit i8

      < S e d

    to

    c reue an

    ag e  ,rroflle.

    RO UNOOYtI t

    lit

    , . 

    One \vny to c.'Cut.c.a

    s m o o th co n te n  I  OI 8 ty

    l o o k   to roun d

    ov er

    all

    th e e

    > d g e 8 t o

    let the pieces

    now

    togeth er. This frame is

    really a variation of the frame show n a t the top of page 13 , excep t

    w ith

    a eoved piece added to w iden

    the whole frsme ..

    T he ex tru

    w idth is

    niter for ~r

    prints

    or

    artwork.

    Once

    again.

    this

    molding

    starts

    b y ro u nd in g o ve r both e d g e s

    of

    the

    strip, Step

    I.

    Then

    cut

    a  V o,  

    or   . rabbet to aeeept

    the second

    st rip, S tep 2. To m ake the w ide cove

    in the

    second

    s t r ip , u s e a ¥ .

    c O I  C

    b o x bit a nd m a k e 8 u ( . ( ., () f: S iv e

    passe s to

    w iden

    th e co ve out to t he e dg e of the strip, S tell 3. P ;1llllly, ro ut a ra b be t

    to accept Ill.pi ct ure n n d g l l I < s StAll>4.

    TlOMTO

    . .. .. .. WilTH

    C

     

    of f

    UtO

    adgc

    0/ .Irip

    to

    create ml>belot. '/I id, edge.

    7

    U8e a straig ht bit

    10 Tf)l 10

    gr60IX to /told s nd

    strip 

    S A W S IA D t

    ST.AIGHT

      1

    6

    Then use a

    . t j f I f

    ro Ukwer bit

    to cmlte an agee profile.

    Rout both edgea   f .1

     trip

    witlt ~  

    round ot n bi t 

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    Rip _ltd .'rill

    -Y/ , wiilloulder, Step 5.

      3

    MaS

    I£NCE

     

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    aNlB GltOOYf

    O N T HIQ CH E 

    OF srodc

    ROU TEa

     . . . . .

    RNa

    PROt'lLe P.DGES.After

    the groove is

    cut, rout the profi le

    Oil

    t he e dg es . III

    this

    ease, we used a 'I... round-over bit to

    round over all rour edges se e Fijr. 2.

    ~trrBR PRA.ME.Now miter these mold

    ins: s tr il>

    to

    len gth to

    lit

    ar oun d t.he photo.

    (See

    the article on

    page

    20

    for

    tip.

    0 1 1

    wis

    \V OODSMITH

      7

    PETA II

     

    G IVE IT YOU R BEST SHOT

    f  

    I tOUT

    1.INrI.  It

    CUTS

    INfO

    tNSlOe

    GROOvr

     

    process.)

    And

    glue the fr am e p ie ce s

    together.

    GROOV& .

    When

    th e

    frame is

    dry,

    rout •   · wide groeve centered on

    the bottom edge fo r th e key. I cu t

    this groove

    on

    th e route r

    tab le u  ing

    .t ol> o n We fe nc e t o limit tbe lengt h

    of the groove, see Fig.

    3.

    (The

    groove

    sh ou ld sto p Vo

    from

    th e

    outside edgtlS o[ th e frame.)

    Rout. in successlvely deeper

    p a s s

    e s u nt il

    the

    bit cuts through

     

    groove on the inside

    edge

    of the

    frame. (Ket>p

    this

    set-up f o r r out ing

    the

    m atehing groove in the base.)

    THE I lASB .T o

    mak e the

    base, I

    ~im ply

    ClIt a 10'

    bevel

    on a

    block of

    w oo d

    se e

    Fig.

    4. (Note:

    Fo r s af et y.

    start

    with a block about l2 long.

    and

    cut it to final lengtll

    af ter

    th e

    bevel i eut.)

    Next .

    I

    cut a groove to

    ma tch

    th e

    one in the bottom of

    the f rame

    U

    the same set-up (w ith the stop

    blocks) on the router table to rout a

    v . . . . . .deep groove, see Fig. 5. Then U8 l n

    I0I0 ou nd .. ve

    r

    bi t

    to

    ease the

    edges.

    THE KEY .N ow .

    to

    join the

    frame

    to the

    base. rip a key Yo (to fit the w idth of the

    l.'I'OOv• )

    by

      to mateh (l,e

    to ta l

    depw

    of beth grooves.) T hen round the end s

    to

    m atch the groov

    es ,

    .. . I S C U Y

    Tom

    GROOVES

     

    IIA '

    NOTe: t : : : . 5   1   . - - - - - 1

    lW EN   ION S

    G IV EN A RE

    fOIl

    eTU t rs

    f I G U

    W e W 8ntO Oto build. self· slM ding

    frame - without. uN ihg one or those

    cardboard

    back. w ith the hinged

    flap. Aftera ~UI~xperimenting,

    we came up with a \\ y to mount.the

    ftrune

    to

    a

    s

    mall

    a ng le d b ase .

    T1 1Ctrick is t - o CUI n g roove in the

    b otto m o f the frame and a matching

    groove in

    the i > a s 4 > . Then

    join

    the

    tw o  ith a key. refer 10Fig. 1.

    This groove-and-key trick solves

    the problem of supporting the

    fram e. and it

    also

    p ro vid es a w IlY t o

    slide

    the photo and g I a . . < s in and out

    of

    the

    bottom

    of the

    frame.

    M AKIN G THE FRA ME

    To m ake

    this

    frame.

    you have

    to

    eut,

    t he mo ld in g

    strips •

    ~ttle

    diIl'erently

    than

    those show n

    on

    th e p re vi ou s

    ~. The m o lding

    fo r

    this

    n-ame

    starts

    I

    a strip M o   thick by   Y o  

    (or 0/. )

    wide, see rig. 2. (It can

    be

    ev en w id er if you want a diIl'enlnt

    proliJe

    on

    the

    molding.)

    GROOV& . Then, Instead

    of

    cutting' a

    rabbet in the molding

    strips,

      \ gl'OOve is

    routOO down the inside edge

    to

    h old th e

    picture and glass. The width of the groove

    is

    determined

    by

    adding the thickness

    of

    the

    g l l l s <

    (%. ), tho pheto

      M o t ,, ,

    and th e

    b; lCking  V ,,). fol' u total of 0 /••

    esk rame

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    W OODSM lTH

    \... -I

     h   SQUARE

    STOC K

     l SQ UAR E

    SflAC RS 

    ~ .. fH ICk

    ®

    FIRSTCUT

    F tNCE

    D I : T A l L

     

    H A l I O W O O O

    RUNN(A

    dow n

    to

    l  t t lqunrc. and cut it to a len gt b this

    jig;', to align

    lb e

    fi...

    -e ut fence exact ly

    of 8 , see F ig. 2.

    90 to

    the s ec on d- cut fenoo , and also to

    SECONO·O\Tl'.·.:NO£.

    The secon d-cut make sur e bo th rene.. are 4& ·

    to

    lb e right

    fence is made

    from two Wil ' of

    ¥.  -th ick ed ge

    of the b:lJIC

    (lb e

    path

    of

    ti le blade) .

    stock with two

    81  IC O)'

    blocks between PRAMIN O SQU AIIB. 'r o al ign the two

    them . 'fhCl \Cspacers fonn a

    %

    slot

    used

    fen ces , I us ed n

    fnulli ng

    sq ua re .

    Lay

    th e

    to mou nt the stop bloc k, see F ig. 2. square on

      l I e b 1 8 O 1 1 0

    the 12

    mark

    (on th e

    To make the

      p l l

    resaw a

    piece

    of inner edge of the fIotuningsquare) is on th e

    ¥. · lbick stock dow n to

    thick. Then bottom right-hand comer , s ee

    Fig.

    a .

    c ut all' s pa ce r b lo ck s

    6

    long

    and J Y o  

    long, Then p lace the other 12 inside

    mark

    on

    a n d

    gl ue them

    betw een

    the tw o

    strips.

    lb. right edge of th. base. T his g ives the

    STOP, BIA)C K PENC I( . The stop -block aligD Jnellt you need.

    80th

    IIl mS ar e

    90

    to

    f ence ; made

    th e

    same

    way

    as

    the

    oocond-

    each

    other,

    and

    they're 45·

    to the

    right

    rut

    fence bet.

    it 's longer.

    a n d both s p a c ers

    edge o r

    th e

    baRe.

    ar e

    only

    II .· long. se e

    Fig. 2.

    MOIM '

    PE N C t :S .T o a

    the first ,t

    SQU AR I(UP PENC t :S .'Vben

    the

    glue is fence (A l, slide it 8g1linst the framing

    dry on

    the

    o etOnd 'l f en ce

    a n d

    stop -bIock square so one end is at

    the

    6

    mark.

    se e

    fence, squa re

    up

    lh e fro nt an d

    b a d <

    edges F ig. 3. T hen glue it in p lace.

    on a jointer, or by ripping a new

    edge. Next.

    position t h e second -en

    rence

    (8)

    a g : U n s t

    t he o th er

    inner

    e dg e o f tb e f ra ming

    ASSEMBLE

    JIG square. (M a ke s ur e

    the

    end wilb lbe

    shor t

    Now

    th e fen«lS can

    b e

    mounted to th e

    space r is in the inside C orner

    of the

    plywood boISe. I h. cri tical part of mal ting sq\l8l Cl.)I h.n glue it in p lace,

    f f i R ~~mR ~ ~~ 

    For 1M 8«tJ1td eut 11 8< 0~

    Itflce pU3i i lil

    (he

     im .IId ogai 03 lit<

    3top block to

    3d t ngfh

    The

    < i te r t il _

    oth r

    ettd o f 1M p i « . e B .

    Tim

    j ig

    cuUI

    ~5

    lion

    011 I I l 1 J 1 d i n g

    ~rip

    lo r

    picture frames The jint Cld

    it

    made on

     lU

    pi«e8

    with the

    1I oldj 9 (l{f

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    19

    OO1)SMITH

      .  

    NOTE ,

    OONT CUT TOO

    FAR tN TO JiG

    R I G H T H ~

    fft(cE

    9

    T hen draw a line down the outside of glue dri es , sc re w

    tlll 

    fe nces to the base .

    the triangle for th e leJl;,hand fence . .F lip MOUNTJIG . T o prevent the jig from

    th e triangle over to mak e a no th er

    45 °

    line shifting position, r d rilled h oles and

    se

    fo r th e ,ight.-halld fence. cured if to the table w ith hex bolts . i';ou

    ALIGN 'ENG£$. To

    m ake sure the.fences could

    also cl amp

    the jIg to

    the table,

    stay at 90

    to each

    other, [ set a

    fram ing USIN GTHE JIG . T o use tJ,e

    jig,

    cuL t he

    square along the reference lines with the firs m iter on one end of all pie ee s w ith the

    corner o n th e   e rei nee point, an d clamped stock tight against the right.-hand fence.

    it to the

    base,

    T hen clam p a stop

    block

    to

    the letlrhand

    To posit ion th e fen ces, place the enda of. fence. Now position Ufe

    fil' t

    mite  c~ l

    e ac h fe nee a L t he

    2

    m ark s o n the o utsid e tight into the cham fered end of th e stop

    of the fram ing square. T hen gl ue an d bloc k, and cut al l pi~ to th e correct

    clam p the fen..,. to the base. When the length. see IJ 'ig . 2.

    ~ _ ; : c = r : : : : : : ; : :

    I Jl,et

    cutting the fences,

    I laid

    them out on fbebase. T o do th~ ,

    first

    draw a renter line on the

    base, see F ig . J. T h en m ea su re

    down 3 from tbe top of the base

    an d. m ark a c en te rp oin t. ('), 'h ~

    is

    a re fe rence point fo r laying out

    th e angle of t he ann s. )

    IJSE 1'RIANG(.E. N ow ,

    to

    posi-

    tio n th e fe nc es , lay a 46' irIangle

    On  th e base w ith the 48 angle

    ca rner seL on ~he reference

    p oin t, e e F ig. L

    T h e s am pr oblem s, exist on a ra dia l an n

    saw as o n-a ta ble saw . Y ou have to cut 4[j '

    m iters, an d lik e pieces have to be· lhe sam e

    lengtb. O ne of the biggest llroblenlJl is

    a lig nin g th e ra dia l a rm to exactly 4 5 . T he

    solution is to build a jig with ou t movin g

    parts and mak e straig h~ cuts w ith the saw .

    To bu ild

    'the

    jig,

    I cut the 16 x 24 base

    from

    o/,j

    plywood, see. Fig. 1.

    FE NCES. T hen there are two fences, a

    rig hlrh an d fe nt.. (Used

    to

    m ake the ill'S t

    mitel' cut) and a. Ieft-halld fence

      used

    to

    make

    tb e

      CeO lJd-eul).

    Both

    fe nces are cut

    2 -wi

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    WOODSMlTH

    STOPtll~

     

    M lT£R JlC. 'rhe basic _p ro cedU l-e

    is

    to

    cu t a

    45°

    m iter on

      .   d

    of

    a u

    pieces

    [Jl:S(

    Then

    tbe

    ot l,el' en d

    is mite red

    to fum

    length.

    You have several ways to go

    here.

    Th e.

    miters

    can

    be m ade with

    the m iter gauge on

    a

    table

    saw

    or

    on a r a d i a l ann saw, Either way,

    yo u ca n have prob lem s because th e

    markings On miter ga uges and

    radial arm s an' not oriou sly inaeeu

    rate. I  v e f O W 1 { l

    that

    i t s

    worth  

    to

    build a

    'm iLer j ig ,

    see

    pag e

    18 

    FIRST CUT tf

    you're using U te

    ta ble saw jig, th e first cu t

    is

    made

    by 'ho lding the

    insi e

    edge of the

    mo ld in g a ga in st t he

    '''first; · cut'' fence

    of

    the m iter jig,

    se e

    Fi g,

    1.

    Hold

    it

    with a flrm

    grip

    so the pi ece doesn't

    slid. dw ing the cu t,

    and pull

    the jig

    back befo re

    r ele as in g you r g il l> .

     f

    y ou 're u sing a m it er g au ge, ho ld th e

    inside edge of the moldi ng

    against

    t he f ac e

    of t ile ga uge. The cut

    is

    made SO th e long

    po int of the miter leads through the saw

    blad e, jus t as in Fig.

     

    F£eD RA J E. .A

    slow , st eady rate of feed

    works

    be st .

    If

    you

    go to o

    fast, there's

    a

    gr eate r chance tha t the workpiece

    will

    slip . JuS t hold it steady an d let the teeth

    do the cu tting.

    A fter making each cut, do n't let the

    strap

    pieces co llect near

    t l  

    s aw b la de,

    I

    cle ar t hem away wit h • long stick.

    S £OOND MlT&1l.

    After the first m iter is

    cut on the ends ofa l l the pieces , the second

    m ite  '

    c a n

    b e m arked . Thi s det erm ines the

    f in al lengt h

    of

    each piec e

    However,

    it' s no t the ove ral l length of

    each

    piec e th at

    counts,

    itl s th e length of

    th e rabbet o n t he inside edge of eacll piece.

    Th e-second

    m it er m ust be cut

    so

    the phot o

    01 

    print (o r mat)

    fits

    betwee n th e in side

    ed ges o f the

    ' . 'U b l > e l ,

    To m ark

    this

    length, lay a ru le r in the

    rabbet of on e frame piece,

    see Fig.

    2.

    The

    second miter is marked off on the in side

    edge of the rabbet so th e measurem ent

    miters 

    There

    ar e  wo

    cr it ical

    measure-

    m eat s h e...  The

    miters must

    be

    45 ,

    'q d

    ~he opposite pieces of the fram e (t'he tw o

    sides , and the_topibo tt om ) m ust be

    exactly

    t he sam e len gt h.

    The procedure I follow has a lo t

    to

    do

    with th is second criteri a, O ften

    too

    much

    attention is pa id

    to

    th e 45' an gle, But

    if

    oppos it e p ie ces

    31.

    not.

     m llll

    th e same

    length you have effectively changed the

    jo in~ angle, an d t here

    will

    be gaps even if

    th e mit ers

    are

    cu t at

    exactly 45 .

    ROVGH LENGTH. J start

    by cutting

    a U

    th e moldi ng stock to

    rough

    le ng th . Wo rk

    in g w ith shorter pieces is always easier,

    '1'0

    de term ine the rough lengt h,

    measure

    the out side dimensions of the

    ph otogtaph or pmnt you're

    fr am ing 

    A l s O

    measure

    the

    wi  llt of

    th e molding

    stock  

    Now

    3(ld

    t\vice

    the

    wid th or the molding

    stock to the dimensiollj; of the p ic tu re , and

    add

    at

    least I

    ex tra to give yourse lf some

    room

    to

    work .

    T£S1  l'I 'A1 \1 £ ,

    Afte,·

    al l

    of

    the

    pi eces

    are

    cut to rough length, you can cut the miters.

    How eve r, it' s always be st to start with

    so me

    S < o a p

    pieces to make a

    tes t

    fram e.

    M aking the m olded pieces for ~ pic

    ture

    fram e is only bnlf

    the fu n 

    The

    ot her b nlf is cut tin g

    the

    fou r f ra rt le

    pieces

    with

    perfect

    miters 

    The

    chal

    lenge , of course , is to create a f ram e

    with no gnps at the com ers, O kay,

    then

    why do

    gaps

    always

    seem

    to

    appear in the m iters?

    Gaps in the mitered com ers of

    a

    frame ca n be a result of four thing s:

    the m iters

    may

    not be

    cu t at

    ext y 4 5 ; 2)

    the oPPll itep ieces in

    th e

    frame aren t   tJ y

    the sam e

    length;

    3)

    the pieces

    wer-en b

      _ l a m p e < witb the m iters h eld t ig ht

    in the first place; or

    4)

    the.

    frame

    piec... ha ve ex panded or co ntracted

    (with

    changes

    in hum idity),

    The

    lirst

    two problems can be

    so lv ed by following

    a good

    cutting

    pro ced ure and u sing a m iter cutt ing

    jig (su ch

    as

    th e on e sh ow n o n pag es

    ~g.19),

    T he c lam pin g p ro blem can b e so lved w it h

    one of the frame clamps shown on pages

    22-23,

    T he fo urt h p robl em is just a

    matter

    of age -

    and

    no one has resolved that

    problem .

    (See

    Talking. S hop on page

    22,)

    SmlNG UP THESAW

    The proced ur e we

    use

    to

    cu t m ite rs is

    pr ett y

    easy.

    The first th ing t o co nsider is

    the saw blade, W hen cutt ing miters,

    I

    se

    a carbide-t ipped  r s s u t blade. Co mbina

    t ion b lades

    are nice

    mos t of the time.

    But

    I

    use a

    c ro ss cu t b la de with 60 or 80 teeth

    (such as th e Freud thin kerf LU88 M or

    LU85M)

    to cut m it ers . T hes e b la de s make

    n ice sm oo th cut s t hat a re e as ier to glue.

    S£TBLAD Even with

    a

    »OI'fect blade,

    yo u

    can

    still hav e problems. W l)en the

    bl ade is mounted , check it with a try

    square

    to m ake

    sure it s

    exactly

    00  to

    ~he

    top of the table.

    CunlNG THEMITERS

    When the saw

    is

    set up, work can begin

    o n m it er ing. the frame piec es

    to

    length.

    B ut t his is

     lIJ~

    us t a matter of cutting

    45 

    fIGURE

    T IPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR A PERFECTFRAME

    I

    A1JGN

    P£NCI~

    M R k w nH

    S   W T O OJ H

    l HGTHOf  

    PICtU~E:_

    PlUS v , .

    rame etails

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    AfteJ· b~ildinga fo:ame,the ne~t step is to

    mount the gla.'lS,picture. mat  if o

    ,NAIL IN PLACE.

     

    use

    'I, '

    bratl.

    behind

    the hackipg to hold everyO)ingin tigl,t. If

    the u=e is made ,vilh soft wood, you call

    PI the brl\ds ill with needle-nosepliers.

    With harder woods, it's easi.. · to use a

    ~peciaJ 1001called a Brad Point Nailer.

    (About   10 in most mail orde.· ca~Qgs.)

    .:).nothermethod for pressing the brads

    info place \ISe Clumnel-(,oclt

    p li C l   S ,

    see

    art

    belo\v.'1'0prev~nl m..mnl ' the f.=e,

    place a p iec e of cardboard on the outside

    edge of the u-ame. Then set the ,vidth of

    Ihe pliers and squ... .e th~ b•-adin place.

    8ACI mG.

    When eveeyOllngis in place.

    I CClverhe hackwithbl OWl1l)Opero  ake

    WOODSMlTH 2 1

    it

    dustp_f.

    (A b ro w n g ro cery bag

    works

    line. ). Cut the paper a little smaller th an

    the back of the frame  'I'hen run a tbin

    bead

    of yellowglue

    a ro und

    the back

    e dge

    of

    th e fram e

    and press the paper down.

    Next use a Spl 3:\t mis te r or damp sponge

    to moistenthe

    paper w eD .

    Keep the frame

    back-sideup unm the paper and glue dry.

    (A hai l dryw 'speeds it along), 'When

    jt '   . .

    dry ,

    the papel shrinks up drum tight.

    HANGIT UP.Tbe only thing left is to

    hang up the frame. For a heavy

    1 1 , , ,

    I

    use tw o pic ture han gers and wrap p icture

    wire through tile loops  see drawing

    below. It puts IIijlSsl.J'e$son the joints to

    hang a frame thi s way thai) from the lop.

    Filuilly, [ glue rubber bumpers at the

    bottom to keep the llictw from shifting.

    MOUNT N

    dots, put the glue on onlyone side of each

    eq ua ls Ole size of the picture you're fram joint. Kee p it at least 00 away fr om the because nailing can break the gluejOint.

    ing plus Yi~ extra , e 1 g e so   won't 0 0 7 e out, onto the faces Deciding U M r e to nail is

     

    no-win

    The most common problem here is to of the molding. situation. ITyou nail through the top and

    makemar ks on all

    C o u r

    p ie ce s and then tr y

    CLAlIIPING UP 

    After the glue is applied, bottom of the frame and then bang the

    to cut exactly on the marks. Thi s is almost qui ckly clamp up the four sides of the frame on the wal l, you won't see the nau'

    im possible to do. frame. There's a tendency to overtighten from the sides, But I usually .. i iI on the

    The miter jig is designed to eliminate here. Whatever clampingmethod you use, side of lhe frame (8 1,

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    cUt·saAr

     

    SAM E

    sttE ASflIAME

    WOODSMITM

    AS$ KMlll.Y .Now 8Ssem~le th e f ix tW 'l

    by Hlippil\g ~ 36 · long p iece or

    V ,

    th readed ..od through th e o a d o e . . Then

    ad d w in g nu ts 011 belth ensL'

    U$I «GTIlE Fll\l· lIRE. To use the fixture,

    I alw a y s s ta rt . by w,, xing th e to)) o f the

    blocks t o

    keep

    th e fl'3 lle

    (rom

    sticking if

    any

    glue

    o oz es o ut   If th e miter.

    Then

    Ja y

    th e bJoo .ksdow n on n D a~'sw faee so the

    threaded rods C t 0 8 S e ac h o t.h er in an 4 IX .J ,

    (N ole: U nless the frame is square, th e

    ro ds won 't c ro ss

    ttl

    9 turn eaPJ l>8 i i. the

    teosened block. N .. xt glue the l emaininIJ

    three corners an« set the piec es in place,

    NOWslide

    tbe   loose   block

    in

    aJ>(

    tigh~n

    al l th e wjng nuts.

    A r . everything

    is

    in place , cl1eck each

    corn er O f the C rame (0 be Sl II 'e (he jo in ts

    ~ t ~t\ Don' t overt ighten. Just b.1ng

    lh eni tog~tIJe,. qntil the j~int closes up.

    One more thing. We found thnt th is

    clam p w orks

    be st

    Io r squ lU 'C frames

    0,.

    tb oRe t haL aI'I close

    to sqlla.'(

    (5x'7

    and

    Ss

    10).

    (~· s

    harder

    to

    hold

    lOng.

    reetanguJal'

    or odd · $haped

    r , . . , , , S

    tig) ih th is

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    WOOOSMITH

    4

    •  4) Medium Rings for moldings 1 to

    1 M , wide.

    • (4) Large Rings for moldings IM , '

    to

    2 V , , '

    wide

    Metal Spring Clamp Plier Tool,

    Order No.

    611-404,   39.95.

    Shop-Made WoodeD Spring Clamp

    Plier Tool, (Includes plans and hardware,

    you provide the wood.) Order No. 760-

    720, $4.95.

    PICTURE HANGING SUPPLIES

    Once you finish

    build in g

    a 6-ame, the

    best

    w ay to hru lg it on the wall is with hinged

    ha nge l'S and

    picture

    frame

    wire,

    se e ih e

    box on page 2 1. W < re offering three kits

    th.~ include b ras s-plated .ha ngers , picture

    fram e

    wii:e,

    hooks, and rubber bumpers to

    keel) the

    pi ct u re f rom sh if tin g

    on

    the wal l .

    Lightweil¥ht Picture Frame Hang

    ing

    Kit,

    (for

    SxlO

    n-ames and

    sm alle r)

    Order No. 760-810, $5.95. Includes

    enough material for six

    fr am es :

    • (1 2 )

    Hinged Hangers,

     

    4

    long,

    with Vf;N · lo ng SCl 'e\V S.

    • (10 ft Braided PictureF 'r iu ne W i re ,

    • (12 )

    nubbe,· Bumpers,

    se lf-adhesive.

    • (6)

    Lightweight

    Wal l

    Books.

    a~vy

    Picture Fnune Hanging Kit, .#I:)

    Order No. 760-820, $9.95.

    In cludes

    'l / ' 

    enough material for six frames;

    • (12) Heavy Hinged Hangers, 1 

    lon g w ith, ~ '-Jo ng sc re w s.

    • (15

    fl..)

    Braided

    Picture Fl-ame

    \V ire.

    • (12) Rubber

    Bumpers,

    se l f-adbesiv e .

    • (6) \VaII

    Hooks.

    Extra Heavy Frame Hanging Kit,

    Order No. 760·880, $12.95. Includes

    enough material for -s ix f tl lmes:

    • (12) Exb:a Heavy Hinged Hangers,

    Jo/,( ' long, with % -Iong screws.

    • (25

    1 1 : . ) Braided

    Pitt ,-e F rame IV il-e.

    • (12 ) Rubber Bumpers, self-ad hes ive,

    • (6) E~trs Heavy Wall Hooks.

    STEP STOOL

    Wood.mil l l.

    is offering all of

    th e ha rdwa r e

    needed to

    build

    th -e step sto o l.

    Step

    Stool Hardware,

    Order No.

    760-110, $6.95, This Irncksgeincludes:

    • l

    pair) Solid Brass Hinges, 1' I ,

    long,

    2

    open width, with screws.

    • (1) Brass Chain, 12 long, with Lwo

    No. 3

    x

      ( roundhead brass SCl-eWS.

    • (1) Brass-Plated Elbow Cateh and

    Strike Plate, screws, nail included.

    DISPLAY EASEL

    W oodsm ilh is

    al so offering the hardware

    needed to b uild the

    displ;ly

    e ase l,

    pisplay Easel Hardware, Order

    No. 760-210, 88 .95. Thls package includes:

    • (12 ) Birch Gallery Spindles, 2%

    ove n  

    length.

    • (2 )

    B irch TIe Rack Pegs, 2> ',,' long,

    fit 0/ ,,  hole.

    • (1) rBrass

    Turn

    Button with N o. 3

    x

    v . ,

    PhBrass Woodscrew.

    ROIITtR BITS FOR MOLDINGS

    All of

    th e

    picture

    f i-ame

    moldings shown

    On

    pages

    13-16

    ar e

    made with only eight

    router bits. We are offering these t>its

    individually or as a set with either y..

    shanks or v , , ' shanks. (We rec ommend

    v . , shank bits

    jf

    your router collet w ill

    accept

    th em .)

    All of the bits a , heavy-duty, earbide

    tipped steel. We use these same bits in the

    W ood$ » ifh

    shop.

    0;. &traight Bit,   1 0 cutting length,

    single Oute (VI  shank only).

    • y, Shank , N o, 271-003, 9.95 .

    Y - l ' Straight Bit, two flutes.

    • \II' Shank,

    cutting length, No.

    271-625,   10.95.

    • v ,

    Shank, : y , ; cutting' length. No.

    2'7 ,1-005, 12.95 .

    ';. Straight Bi4 two flutes.

    • y , . Shank, I  cutting length, No.

    271 -613,~12 .95.

    • v . ,

    Shank,

    cutting length, No.

    271 · 676 ,

     12.95 .

     / It Round-Over

     it

     sometimes

    called a comer- rounding bit).

    • v .

    Shank, No. 2'71-811 , 2 3.9 5.

    • It Shank, No. 27 1-821,   26.95 .

    ';'  Round-Over Bit.

    • '.4   Shank, No. 2'71-814 ,   23.95 .

    • f Shank, N o. 2' 71-823,   24.95:

    0

    Round-Over Bit.

    • '.4 Shank, No. 27 1 · 81 7, 2 4.95.

    • 1 0 Shank, No. 2'71-826 , 25 .95.

    y,

    Core Bo Bit (sometimes called a

    roundnose bit).

    • '.4 ' Sh an k, No. 27 1 -721, 21 .95 .

    • Y o '

    Sha nk , No.

    ZU·W, 25.95.

    0 / , . Core Box Bit.

    • '.4  Shank, N o. 2' 71-724,   22.9, .

    •  h Shank, No. 2'71·733,   29.95 .

    Set

    of

    E ig ht B ita

    (listed above).

    • ' . o '

    S han k, N o .

    '/60-300.

    Total

    price

    if

    -the bits are purchased separately:

      .tI;I.60. Price for the se~ of a ll e ig hb

    bits:  134.95

    • v ,  

    Shank , Order No. 760-400. (No t e :

    J A i  

    Stl tlight Bit. \v ill have ' / 4

    shank.) Total price if the bits are

    purchased

    separately:   169.60.

    Price

    for the se t of all eighL bits : ~149.95 .

    CROSSCUT BLADE

    In the

    ar ticle

    on making picture n-ames,

    we mentioned the importance of having a

    good crosscut blad e fol' c-uttingmiters. The

    one we use is a

    thin

    kerf

    Freud

    LU88M.

    You can find

    this

    blade at many wood

    w orking sto res and

    in

    mail o rd e r c ata lo g s,

    or you can order it through Wood8mi lh:

    Freud LU88M Saw Blade, thin kerf

    ( . J 9 0 inch),

    10:'

    dia, , 60 teeth,  1 (   bore,

    Order No. 226-115, 88 9.90.

    fRAME CLAMPING JIG

    On page 23, we-showed plans lfor a shop

    made jigIOI' clamping

    pi c tu re f rames. Most

    of this is standard hardware; but

    if

    you

    caD't find it locally we are offering all or

    the hardware as a kit. Another kit .is

    available thnt includes the hardware and

    pre-drilled maple blocks.

    Frame Clamping Jig Hardware.,

    Order No. 760-610, .$9.95. Includes:

    • (2 ) Threaded Rods, W ' x 36'.

    • (4)

    ;1,

    Wing Nuts.

    •  A t  

    Dowel R ed, 36 long.

    • M ,  LD. Plastic Tubing, 8 long.

    Frame Clamping Jig, Wood and

    Hardware, Order No. 760-620, $24.95.

    This pac kage inclu de s;

    • All of the hardware listed in No.

    760-610 (above ). I--------------j

    • Four Hardwood Blo.cks measuring ORDER IN G IN FO RMA TIO N

    2 Y . i x 8M , x 4 . Bloc ks are pre - r---------------i

    drilled fp r threaded, rods and dowels. To order tile project SUpplies, mai l in the

    MITER SPRING CLAMPS ol'll r Co,'mon th e protective cover of this

    issue, oi'

    call

    the

    to Uill....

    number

    listed

    On palle

    22 ,

    we mentioned that miter below. If ordering

    by

    mail, send your

    spling clamps ru-e a good way to clamp order and payment to:

    mite r joints. W.e're of)'emig a set with

    three sizes of miter spl'ng clamps (lings). Woodsmith P ro je