woodsmith - 060
TRANSCRIPT
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OT S ROM TH SHOP
O 60
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•
Sawdust
t·
~
Numbet60 December, 1988
ABoU r'I1DS ISS1l& Hls(J>ryrepeats itself,
So
fro', we'.e added the supplies fO I'
01
so they say. 1 hadn' t really thought three of these ast projects. First is the
d i t f
D onald B . Peschke
m uch about that in term s of
WOOI/8lnitlt
c lo ck m ov em en t e ith er b ra ss ke yw in d o r
Des1gn Oiroct' Ted Kral ic ek
until
we started work 011
this issue .
q uart1 Jb I(~ Ij'), d ia l, d oo r g lass (w hich is
IVoodsmith actually got started in Jul y
stenciled as Shown in the iSsue) .00 the
Man agingEdl lO (OOuglas HickS
1978 when I b eg an wO lokon t he
first
issue,
hardw are for the Regulalol' C lo ck sh ow n
AsSiS1an1dIIOtSOOug la s M .L i d ste r
As it
tarns-out, ninety-nine years earlier,
in Wood.mill . No. 36 .
K ent A . Bucklon
in May 18'1 ll, my gI'eat go mdfather, Em il
As
re l u lt o f a
number
o f
. reques ts , we
ProjectDesigner K en Munk el
P es ch ke , s ta rte d hL~0 '1 1 c omp an y - .
are of\.rillg more Choices for the Cradle
TecIJricaImUSltalorsDavid K re yli ng
'W hy am I 'mentio ning this now? The
sh own in Wt)Qd 8 ,ilit N o. 48. The cradle
com pany E mil started was a Manu fac-
was o ig inally shown in oak. W e new ofi;er
Cary Chr is tensen
turer of aU kinds of Mou ldin gs, P ic ture
the spindles (and the buttons)
ill
oa k.
RodStoakes
Frames and Curtain Pole s. (I'm lu ck y
ch err y ar id walnut,
C h ri s G lowacki
enougll
to
bave one of U ,e business forms fyo u w an ted
to
bu ild the E u''O pean
Cu~omef
e r v i c e
S andy B aum , Mgr. he used back th en, W e incorporated it in to
W o rk be nch sh own in W oodsmill, No. 50 ,
J ac kie S tro ud th e
COVel
photo of th is issue. )
YOI lm ay have had trouble getting the
P at K oo b
So , il ls co ming full cyc le ,
and
I m ti lW J ;y
vises. It w as Io t the faul~ of \V oodcran .
Usa Thompson getting' around to making the picture
S up ply (th e m ail-Ol- de r s ou rc e w e lis le d).
ProjectSuppl ies le slie A nn Gearhart
fram es that seem to be part of m y heii·
T hey did an ad mirable jo b of trying
r o get
Terry
J.
Strohman
l age .
or
cou rse, the m oldings w e're sh ow-
an d keep the vises in stock. The problem
Com puter0_10 K en M in e,
in g in this issue
ate
not nearly as ornate
was
with
Ole manufacturer.
as t],ose E mil made 100 years ago. Bul
W e have talked directly w ith the man-
AdminiSlrallv e
ssIS
Cheryl Sco lt
st yles
change.
u fa c1 ;w 'e a nd h av e re ce iv ed . shipm ent of
Jean Carey
PICT UllE fR AM ES. W hat w as so m uch
th e v ises for th e w orkb ench. Y ou C lUIstill
Ekt lld lngM alnlonatlC8Archie Kra us e
run},
tll Ugll
was ~n li ng up \vith a va rie t y
order from Wo odc, ' lIf t. SUpp ly , and we are
of frames using a Hm ited amount of also b ing
to
K eep som e on band.
The W oodsm ith Store
machinery. W e decid ed to limit the work
lJl O JT6M.S .One of U ,e things I didn't
to
u sing a ro uter table
to
fo rm th e p ro fil es .
mention was the .ddition of the logo
I
pe t.lio ns S te ve K ro hm er
T his m ea nt we had to m ak e a ll th e p ro files .
items,
: l Ve
new
h av e a l5 hO I a pro n a c offe e
Mrukel in g
M a nager S te ve O o zie r
w ith ro uter b its. Is
this
too limiting ?
mug . and 8 corduroy cap - all \\ith the
A t firs t, I th ou gh t i~ w ou ld b e. But , then
Woodsl lwh lo go O n th em .
St ore Managers : [ b eg an looking at the dozens of router bit
To
be
hon est abo ut, all th is, I resisted
Stlouis. M O Jo n Behrle profi les available. '1 'h ere w ere a ctu ally to o
oO 'e ri ug t his tY lle o f th in g fo r m an y y e,,': .
E k H I e I e y
CA Micha el D eH av en
m any choiees. So, we look anothel' ap-
But what triggered it was a sim ple need.
DosM91nos ,A Ken t Welsh
preach. All of the pl'O fil es are made by
I w an te d a good shop M )I'On.
using on ly three standard router bi t
1 1 0-
T he ty pical blue denim ones I've seen in
WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114 ) is pub-
6 Ie s (s n'a ig 'h t, r ou nd -o ve r, a ne c or a b ox ).
so me catalog s an d stores ju st w eren't th e
li sh ed b imonlh ly (February . A pril. Ju ne. Au-
Using
< l i f f C \ e n t
siz es o f the se bits , we
q ua lity I w an te d. A nd w orse. the p ock ets
gust. October, D ecem ber) JelyWoodsmi lh
were
able to
c o m e
up
with
several
dozen
were
to o
small and in the wrong places.
PU ti lishlng Co., 2200 Grand Ave .• Des
profiles. 'T hen it becam e a m atter of eh oos-
So ,
we- d esig ne d o ur o wn , A etu ally , T erry
Moilles . IA50312.
ing
whi ch o ne s
to
show il l
th is i ss ue .
Strohm ro, desi~l it ... .
Woodsmi th is a registered tradem ark of
IVe s ettled on 10 pl'o file s. S om e a re v ery
NEW FACES. 'l'erry joined O UI' PI'Oject
Woodsmilh PubUSIling
Co.
sim ple, som e are complex . The key to th e
SUpp ly team this post
fall
He
worked
in
~Copyright 1988
b Y
Woodsmlth Publis~ing
complex ones is that t~y
8
,-eaUyjus t
th e IVoodlm til h Stlll C here in Des Molnos
C o. A llRigl\ts li1 eservl9d.
combinations of the sim ple ones. That is,
for about a year. Then we re cru ited h im
Subscriptions: One year (6 issues ) $12.95.
th e c omp le x mo < ling sw e'r e s how in g d on 't
to hel p \\ith the front end' w ork for the
Two Years (12 issues) $ 22 .9 5. Canad a and
ha ve
t o
be one strip of
wood
th at's formed
projecL supplies .
For ei gn: add $2 per yea r. U .s . fu~ onlY .
by a very com plex bit.
In ,ujdifio n to de sig Jl in g t he shop apron
Sing le co py p ric e, $3 .50 .
Instead , m ake sev eral strips w ith just
and gettl g the other Jo go item s lille d up,
Second Glass Postage Paid at ee s
one p l'O f ile on ea ch snip . T hen jo in (hem
T erry has been w orking on all the details
Moine s, Iowa
together. Combinations like this are al
you never th ink about . . . IN tting tele-
Postmaster: Sen d ch ange 01 address to
m ost endles s. All tha t, has to be done is to
pho ne ~n fo r lh e S OOn um ber, design.
WOOdsm ilh,BOx4~1, M t. Morrls.IL 61054.
find new ways of ar ranging the strip s to
ing the form s needed
to.
take orders and
S UB SC RIP TIO N Q UE STIONS? Cal l to ll
create new profiles. It's just a m atter of
to
ship them , and b:ying to think of w sys
fr ee 800 -435 -0715 (Ill inoisI'QSidentscall 800 ·
us ing YOlU imagination.
to make the e ntire p ro ce ss m o re e ffic ie nlc
89 2· 0753). H Gurs: 7;30 AM 10 8:30 PM ,
PROJE CT SU ppLJ.£ . In the last issue, [ He has had several head, 'hes.
Cen tra Time. wee kday s only.
talked about ~he project supplies for the
But th ings are p,'Ogres.;ing. And with
B AC K IS SU ES : Fora Iree booklet deseri '-
projects
sh o\\ tn
in
\ ood smillt
We are
Ten-y's help , we hope to orre,' a idel'
in g a ll o[ the baI lk]ssues. sen d 1 0
Woodsmi th
b eg in nin g to g o back t o p ''O jeets sho wn in
range of se,'V ice for allll 'ood~mit1t. project
I
2 00 < >randAve ., Des M ornes ,lA 50312 .
Pllst issues and b.' j?ng to fin d SOIlrolS for supplies .
SA MPLE C O PY: W e w illSend a fre e sampla
th ose su pplies . (For some of these post
NEXTMAILING.T he .ext issu e o f Wood·
oopy 01 Woodsmi th to a nyone. Just send us
projects. \V e s o m e ti m es l isted a so urc e
mit will be m ail~ during \he week of
his /her ,name and ad dress.
th at h as sin ce sto pp ed ca rry ing the item s.)
F eb ruary 27, 1 989 .
\VOOOSMITH
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3
OODSMITH
RIGHT LENGTHON SHORT DOWELS
I lise
qu ito II few short
dowels
ro r glui ng
joints together. AntJ.>lia
To > the jig, align the tene e so th e
blad e fi l.ll into the k.. 'f slot. Insert the
dowel stock into the correct diameter
ho le
un til th e
end of the dowel is against the
r e n e e .
Now hokl the jig
and dow e l
and
cu t
through
the dowel. Slowly
back
the jig
out, and p h
th e
tini~
owel out the
e dge or the jig u.
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W OOOSM 1TH
4
R A B B E T P E T A I L
goove
D E T A i l
Non,
SOTH IO ES C U T
fR OM O NE L HK
@
5 10 £ B Am
...,.,.. 1
0/.)(
14 -
13V.
0 •
6 /.. 160/.
V. •
12 - 1M .
v... 7 - 160/.
Y.x91~ 19
A SId.. 12)
8 RI_ I
C Slop I
o . . . . ,.,.1 (1)
E
U cI
1
Owtoll Dimensions 19 w )( 14\ - d x 14 h
¥/
s ,, -
72
A A
~
v .
1t
5 1. _
I
A
I.
EE
•
v . 1 1.
72
I
a c c
0
j
M AnRIA l.S LIST
CunlNG DIAGRAM
Life is to o
short.
For a four -y e ar -o l d,
tIl.t
means yo u
J
s tool because yo u're to o
short to
reach
the
sink
to
brush
your
teeth,
For an adul t. it means you're still using
th e same
stool to reach
all th e way back
o n the
top
shelf o C the ki tcl len cab ine ts.
Fo r th ls project .
we
u sed • basie
ap
proach. The
step
stool is
m ade of
< o m m o n
pine, which is a no th er w ay o f say in g
it
ha s
a
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1 -
D DO
f lGURE-
ROUT GROOVE fO R RI~1t
t:1
GUIDE JIG
O J
u
.C)
RO UT R AB 8fT fO R B ACK P o N R
-
t_j
GUlOE JtG
[ : >
1r
e p
TEP 3
5
TE P
R OU T R tG HT 101 :
O T T O M O II O
S TE P 1
RO UT
lff T
S IDE
BOTJOM D A DO
GU DE
J I
UID I
JIG
RGURf
NOE~ AC~K~~~
ROU T IN iDGE:
Qlllt fcn oN
O F A RR OW
ClA MP JK
TO WORKI tECf
WOODSMITH
C U T B LA NK IN HA LF
Alter the routing is complete, you call cut
the blank in half to
create
two mirrored
side pieces.
I D
do this, start by
rougl
cutting the blank in half with ~he miw
gauge on the table saw,
To get the two side pieces
t o t y
s m finished length, set the rip fence
1314 from the blade, see FJg. 6, Theil
cut each piece with the ouom edge
against the rip fence.
the c : u t edge is exactly in linewith the path
of the bit. see Fig. 2 .
ROUTING
Alte r the jig is complete, it can be used to
rout the two dadoes , the groove, an d the
.-abbe~on the blank.
ROUT DADOJl.S.
Before routing,
I
clam ped
the side blank (A) on to p of
a
co u ple
of sawhorses, see
Fig . 8 .
1lhen
T
clamped the jig in place so its edge is
al igned with the left edge of the lett dado
line, see Soop 1, F ig . 4 .
S e t
the depth
of
the router bit
so
it cuts
a
Y ,
-deepgroove in the blank- taking into
consideration the thickness of the jig s
base .
Sinee
the
base
of my jig was -
thick, I set the del)th of cut at ~ .)
Now set the router against the fenceof
the jig and cut the groove, moving D Om
the back edge of the blank toward the
front edge, see Soop J in Fig. 4.
ShOI)Note: Sint-ethe router bit is t u rn -
ing clockwise, routing this direction actu
ally
pushes the router
base
tight agains~
th e fe nce ,
STOP THE DADO. This dado is stopped
o / / from the fr Ontedge to keep it from
showing on the fr Ontedge of the stool.
Waleh the layout linesand stop when the
bit touches the stop line.
seCOND DADO Next move the jig
down to the dado 0.1 the other end and
followthe same procedure, see Step 2.
GROOVE After these t\VO dadoes are
routed, turn the jig 90 and clampit sothe
edge al igns with the layout line fo. the
groove for the riser, see Step 3. This
groove starts in the dado on the left and
stops in the dado on the right,
Shop Note: Instead of trying to plunge
the bit exactly in the left dado, I plunged
the router bit a little ahead (to the right)
of the dado. TheilIheld the router firmly
and movedit backwards until it broke into
the dado.
BACK RABBET The last thing is to rout
the rabbet for the back panel, Since this
rabbet is ¥ I¥ wide, and the bit
is
h wide
it has to be routed in two steps.
First, align the edge of the jig with the
inside layout line and rout a ~N·,\ ide
groove , see Step 4. Then move the jig
toward you about
y , ;
and make another
pass to clean out the remaining waste, see
Fig
5,
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•
\
CO MPLETE T I l SID ES
Now that th e two s id e p ie r
(8) are joined to the sid b y c uttin g
rabbets
on
the ends to
form
t ongues that
lit th e d ad oes
3nd
grooves in the side
p ie ce s. (I used to ng ue s h er e for. cleaner
appearance. Any variation.<
in the tongue
t IUckoess a re h id de n inside
the
join .)
T o cut the rabbets. mount a 1 ' < ' dado
blade on the saw and rai se i ~ above
the table, 800 Fig. 9.
Before cu tt ing the ~.
ched<
the saw
set-up
by
cu ttin g rab bets o n
the
cnd of a
piece
of
scrap that ·s the same
thicknc.;s.
Af ter
the
tongue on
the
t . e s t
board
fiUl
the
~. groove,
cut
to~ on bo th ends of
the front riser (8)
and
step
(C).
TRIM BACK TONGUK.
The
tongue o n th o
front edge of lbe step (C ) h .. to be
Irimmed
back to fit the stopped dado.
Ir immed
the
tongue in tw o
8l.eps,
se e
Fig. 1 0. First.
cut
the tongue
V
fr om th e
fron t edg e stop pin g sho rt o f O 'e .houlder .
see S tep 1 . T h en c his el d ow n
01 1
the front
edge to rem ove the w aste, see S tep 2 .
W O O D S M IT H
6
S TE P 3
DETAIL
©
S T P
,,'
ClNf alO
T our
lOrn
NOS
(i)
RISER
toU
E A S U ~ N J - l ' j
BA CK PA Ne l
~ _ o o t -
\.
- - - - - - - -
R I G H T
IWO) ..
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IGURE •
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ton IM
INSID
. . CU1S1Dl
7· - lOGlS01
n
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s l o e
,
.
I
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FlGURI7
I I U L I H O S &
OllIS
IO 0Hi SO
fIG.
r
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7
OODSMITH
STlIln
PlATE
.
CATCH
1 ; 1
DETAi l
Y o ~ -
UD
U L l O ~ ~
v W ID E R T H N
TO P OF STOOl
®_ t1
UD
OVERHANG
DETAi l
CHiSEl OUT
R A B B E T
so
S A C K
P Nt\ W J U . IE
F l U S H + - - + -
W fJ t I
BOl lO
O F S TtP
. A
£1
uo
F I G U R E 13
OUtE
s r I E
@
B A C K PA N E L
@
~
DOwa
J tUG
bullnose the front edge ( 1 ;00 S tep S ) using
the s amep r oc e du re a s on the side panels.
aOT'rOM END OF RABBE'I'. There are
two mo re s te ps b efo re assembly. The
bot
tom end of the rabbet has to be chiseled
out so the back panel (0) wil l a lign with
the bottom of the step (C), see Fig. 1 2.
Alter the rabbet-is cleaned out, trim th e
back pane l
so
the
to p
edge
aligns
with tbe
top of the sides, see Fig. 11.
A SS EMBLY
Once all of the pieces are cut to fit, as
sembly
ca n begin.
DRILL PILOT HOLES.Start
by clamping
pieces toge the without glue. put a
pipe damp across the top and another
between the a r c l in the bottom. (Check
that the step
6ts
tight against the back
panel.) Then drill pilo holes through e
shank holes for No . 8
.x
1 V w oodscrews .
GLUE AND SCREW. Take the pieces
apa rt
and put some glue in the dado,
groove rabbet and between the
riser
and
step. Then clamp it back together and
tighten down We s cre ws Alter the glue
dried, Iplugged the screw boles with '
dowels and trinnned the dowels off -Il u sh ,
LID
The only
thing
left
is
to make the lid (E).
Start
by edge-gluing two pieces of
1( .
pin_together. Then cut the lid 1 0 / . 0 wider
than the distance from the front edge of
the riser
8
to the back -edge of the back
panel
(0), S\ Fig.
1 4.
Finally,
ell~
t lV,'
longer than the width or the stool ( 19 ).
HINGE MORTISES.
The lid is held to the
stool with butt hinges, see Fig.
13.
To
mou n t
the
hinges ,
Ioutlined
each
hinge in the top of the back panel. Then I
routed out the mlliolity . o f the was t e and
cleaned up to the line with
a c hisel.
Now sere , th e h in ge s into th e mort i ses
so the front of the hinge aligns with, the
inside .edge
of the back panel. Then center
the
li d
on the top of the stool and mark
the location of the hinges on the back edge
of the l id, see Overhang Detail in Fig. 14 .
Outline
this
mortise with a chisel ao
t
1 from the bact. edge, see Fig. 13.
(This allows the lid to overhang > f I off the
back, see D.etail in Fig. 14.)
fter the
hinge mortises
are cut rout
the
bulln
o se pro file-o n
all four edges of the
lid. Then l ; CI CW the hinges in place.
CHAIN.To keep the lid from falling back
when it's open, r screwed anll'·long brass
chain
to the bettom of th.lid, see Fig. 14.
CATCH.J found that I always t ilted the
stool on the edges of tho lid, put
it
swung
down because the f ont edge wasn't air
tached. S o I mounted an elbow catch on
the bottom of the lid and a strike plate on
the riser, see Catch Detail in Fig. 14.
FtNJSH.r finished the step stool with
two coats of satin polyuretli'ane varnish.
flGUR£
The final operation on the step is to
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WOODSMITH
S T R A IG HT B IT
TW IS T D O WE l
COUNTERCLOC I CW t SE
W HILE RfotNG
D OW N W A A O
the end of the dowel
stops
aj,>ainstthe
Masonite
base.
Then oo1 i f .doo»
k
ei
all the way
push and
turn
using even
pre s sure
until aJ'Oundthe stretcher dowel,
8
D lt ll
V :
C I HO L E
Tlloo_
2 4 8lOCK
FlGURf
Granted, this easel is very basic in
design. But it incorporates a variety of
different
techniques
that make it
more
inteteSiing to build than tl e finished
product might suggest.
The most unique and challenging
techniques
wet
creating round tenons
on the ends of the dowels, and drilling
nniformly·spaeed holes to hold the gal.
lery Spilldles, reIer
to
Fig. 5. The fun
part. was making the jigs that made
both of these
op erations
easy.
T NNONIN JI
Befol'e I started to make the easel, I
made a small jig to cut round tenons on
the ends of the stretcher dowels. The
jig holds the dowel vertically SOa'round
te no n c an be cut on a T o ute r
ta ble. ,
To make the jig, all you need is a
piece
o f 2 x4 sc rap some h I ?tlasoJute
and a straight router bit. Start. by
ripping a bW.Jongpiece of 2x4 down to
2
wide and turn it on edge. Then drill
a hole the
size
of the stretcher dowel
( .) toward one end of the block
and
centered on its willlh, See Fig. 1.
AiWr the hole is drilled through, tack
a piece of v Masonite
0 1 1
ihe bottom
of the block. This serves as a base plate
for the jig. (Keep the tacks away from
the hole.)
S&'I.'I'ING
lJ'.
Now, to make a tenon.
mou.nt a
stnUght bit in the l'OUter
table. P :ice the block agaillS'
tJ,~
fence
of the router table and adjust the fence
so the bit is C 6.1lettd on the end of the
block, refer
to
J ig. I. Then rail;e the bit
until its heigbt above the table equals the
length of the tenon yOI1 want
An ,
plus
the thickness of the \ < Masonite.
After the router table
se~ up, push
the jig along the fence moving from right
to lett until tbe bit cuts abou~·halfw.y into
the :y,; ' hole. Now it's just • matter of
fine-tuning to get the OOI1'ectsi?.etenon.
SUtr l
by tunting off the 'outer and look
_ _ _ D _ i s ~ l a y ,_ E _ a _ s _ e _ l _
SHOW YOUR ART EASILY
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9
C R O S S
secnos
O T E : SI INOt,I.S tAVAIlAILE,
Sl E so uaas ON PAGE 24
D E C OR A T IV E S T RE T CH E R
OOW El RA il
_
z w oce
SCitFN
ctNTfJl
S lR ef Ct l ER
o o w t A I L S
ONOllutn
·
I
.
.
· .
•
R G UI t I 7
NOff,
M A l t (
to
I D E S
W f T H
SQUAll, ClN'TtItf'OlN1
IS
e nwtfN
MA.US
NOTE,
ENOSOF nHONS-
ANCt
.n o
M U l
a E R U S H
1 1.·
~
- - . : ' . .
1~
~
1 ~..-
gos~( ;UON
(tNO Vltw)
17
/
n L LAY 0U1 . ..... a
Jo IUOl UNts t.l e o TOf
A N D lo rrO M D O W E lS
Y f }
ill l
: 2
_
U P R IG H T
STRETCHER
OO W EL
_fOUIl
N O T E : P R E S SD O w n
AGAINST FEN(:E
mEN ROU INTO
RGUJlf 3
S U P P O R T
STRETCHER
OOW EL
_I
CENTER ' .. om IC tlf ON ON E
Uf Il lGtiT S T R E t C H E R O Q w a
_
•
WOODSMITH
G A L L E R Y R A IL
T w o of the 17'· lon g
stre tcher dowels are
used to m ake a decorative rail
at
the top
of the easel . T hese two dow els are held
L O g eth er w ith 12 decorative gallery
spindles
(C l.
re fe r LO F ig . 8. (S ee Sourees,
page 2,1.
DR ILL . IN GJI G . D rill ing the holc~ ror
these spindles
wilS
unoth er ehal lengo. T o
'hi ll these holes .
r
mode a sim ple < :e nt eri ng
jig w ith a couple pieces of Y. plywood,
see
P ig
5.
First. eu~tw o V '·wide < b < J o e ; on th e
inside feee of each plywood piece, se e
Detail in Fig. 5. Then to hold the tw o
pieces of pl ywood t og \l th er, dri ll a se ri es
of
holes
fol 2
v
·J on g s c re w s s e e
Cro~
Sec tion inFig. 5.
Now in s e rt the top tw o stretcher dowels
(A l into
the
jig. ( ' 'he end grain of
the
dowels
s h o ul d
b e v er ti ca l.
T h i s
b a l l
to
do
\lith the w e d g e s that are added later to
th e
ends of the dow els, refer to F ig. 15.)
S tand
th e
jig on end to mak e sure the
end s of both dowe li l a rc O u£ h w ith th e end
of the ji g. T hen gently tighten dow n all of
th e s cre w s to secure b oth d ow els in th e
d a d oes be tween
the
tw o p ly w oo d p ie ce s.
L A Y 011l 'B O LE S .T o m ake sure the hole..
a re s p a ce d
evenly. Im arked reference
l in es Iv..' apart on the top of the jig, see
I·~g.5. Use n square to contin ue these
re fe re ne e li nes on the sid e a nd bottom o f
the jig so the holes in the bottom dow el
a re a li gn ed th e sa m e _ Fig. 5.
RBP ' ERENC E
UNES.
A D e r
1Il3l iting
al l of
the reference line-so draw a centerline
d o w n the length of the dow el T his can b e
difficult,so I w ;O O • l i ttle centering trick.
Set
the
end
of n
combin ation
square so
it ', inlellUo> ,lly ju st
short
of
the
m iddl e
of the dowel and make a reference m ark.
Then
n ip
the combination square over
against the other .ide
of the jig
and make
• s ec ond r ef er en ce mlui
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•
(
THE F RA M E U PR IG H TS
After th e round tenons are cut on the ends
of th e stretcher d ow els. w ork ca n
begin
on
the long upright pieces Cor the easel frame.
To m ake the front uprights (I). Iipped
4/4
sto ck
( ¥,. actual thickne •• ) IV
w id e b y 66 long, see F ig . 9 .
DRILL HOLl S. T h e se upri¢lL
pieces
are
joined
together to the stretcher
dowels
by
drilling four
y,'-dJa.
holes in each uprighL
Two of the d ow el h ole s a re c en te red an d
I from
each end, see Detail in Fig.
9.
Another hole is located
2 4 from
the
top
en d of each
upright.
There is o ne m ore b ole n ea r the top of
e a c h upright
fo r
the
bottom
do el the
gallery rail. To lo ca te this hole,
measure
the d is ta nc e b etw e en the tenons on the
a ss emb l ed g a ll er y rail, se e D etail in Fig .
9. N ow
drill
the e ig h t h ole s
on both
front
uprights , se e Fig . 9.
PEG HOL£S. The picture/art C rame.
placed OD th e e ase l a re su pp orted by ti e
pe gs.
(See
S ou rces , p age
24.) Dri l l
3
series of holes on the front edge of
the
front uprighl>; fo r these pegs, I C< l ~ ig.9.
SUPPORT P IlM f.& . 11 .e sam e
b..
,,;c
pro
cedure is foU owed U) make th e two ICg l I
E)
for th e su ppo~ Ih.m c, The two leg s
O J cu t lV,' wid e by
o W V .
long , se e f. 'ig .
10. Then m ark th e centerpoiJ1Ls fo r th o
ho les at the ends.
There 's one cha nge tho ugh. 'I'lte holes
ab the
top end s
of thes e leg'll ar c
y ,
diameter
(the
full di am ewr of the dowel)
ins tead of
¥ . e
di am et er. This w a y the
middle dowel ca n slide all th e way through
this hole, so th e tenon fits Into tho front
upright , refer to
Detail
in Fig .
17 .
After th e
0/.,'
-dia. Lop holes are drilled ,
drill the remaining
four
M o -dia,
h ole s f or
the
other two d ow els, see Fig . 10.
LO C I( B AR
These
tw o
frames
are conn ected w ith a
lock bar (Fl, see Fig . 11.The leng th
th e
lock bar
is
the ke y to th e an gle o f th e e ase l
D uring the
design phase, w e deter
m in e d
the
length
to get
an II angle Cor
the easel. This length aloo detAtnnilll>dthe
posit ion
of
the middle stretdler dowel on
th e
support frame.
HOtf
.-
D E T A I L
GAUfRY HOlE
IV.·
- G f
o r . •
..L~.__ /
1-. ..
fRONT ....-/
UPRlGHTS
,¥. t
ON Tor ND OF RONT
Uf'UGHTS (S EE D TAl l,
P . . E l A I I .
AtONTUNIGKl IOnOM (NO
.,;. THtouGH HO,, S
AGUaf 9
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IN I O CIC
liN
P L A C
C i) loo( 8AII
m
NOTE: A$SfM6.LE iU~T
f
ANO
S T lllQ i£ R O O W DS
to
ON U . IO 'fJ
lei , TH IN A nAOf OTH ER U I tI OHT
I lETM
(an AWAY V IE W)
MIDOI . f
-- - S T t E T oc.tlt
.. ,-p
dow el throUgl l th e top holeR.
T he front
Cram.
i assembled
by
first
II l iding
tbe
lock
ba r (F)
over the bottom
.tretcher
dowel .
Theil
glue in the
Il
locking Pin. see C I ' O & Sect ion in F ig. 1 1 .
N ow glue the end.
the bottom dow el as
wel l as the
midd le
an d
th e to p
galle'1'
rail
between the tw o f ro nt uprights 0 .
When
the f rames are glued
wgether,
UKe a t oo ll lpick to put Il li tU e glue in lhe
kerf s, an d pus h th e w ed ges in 1 '1 _ .
Let
the glu e dry, then cut tho ends of f and
sand the m fl ush w ith the surfaee.
F INISH. W hen everything
is
a • • mbled.
I sanded the easel f ram e smooth and
applied two
eoats
of Wnltoil h.
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ROOTING Tlfl l PROFfl E. W hen th e
strip s are pusl,ec 'througb
the
router
bit,
u se a con sta nt rate o f fe ed a nd b e p re pare d
so you don't have to stop at an y tim e. A
p a u se e a n c r e a te . d im p le 0. b urn m a rk
in
th e prome.
If p ro file is. d eep o ne, I usually m ake
one Or two roughing cuts. Then for the
final cut, I m ake a very light pass t o elean
u p th e s urfa ce .
RAlll l&TS. A ll of the p r of i l e s in clu de a
rabb et o n th e b ack side to hold the picture.
This rabbet should be at lea st 1 1 0 d eep to
allow for a piece of glass (usually %to
W OODSM ITH
2
•
han dling . usually add a fe ll' in ches to
aUow for the snipe (divot) that o cc urs a t
the ~l1 1 ing and end of cuts.
HOI.J)DO WN . Alter the sbips
are
cut,
t he p ro fil es COl be ro u t e d Th~ key he •..,
is
to
kee p uniform pressure on the strips
so U te prnflles are alw ays consistent.
One of the easiest ways to get even
pressure is
to
use a
grout
trowel, see
draw ing below . (These are rubber bot
tom ed trow els use d
to
s m o oth grout when
inst al li ng ce ramic t il e. T hey 'r e avail able at
h ardw ar e s to re s an d h om e cen te r s, )
The
trowel
is also a o o idea b e c a u s e
it keeps yow ' fingers w ell aw ay from the
bit w hen routing sm all strips.
M aking a picture fram e ought to be
one of the easiest pro jects in wood
w ooong. It's just four strips of wood
joined w ith m iters. But there are a
few
eensidera tions,
First,
of course, is the profil e o f th e
mold ed pieces. T he easiest way to cu t
(he profi les is on a ro ute r ta ble u sin g
st andard router bits,
At
first, we
thought.
this
would lim it the v arie ty
of profiles we co ul d produce. Wrong.
\ ry quickly we ca me up with
about three dozen profi les u sing jU$t
eight standar d router bits. (See
Sources,
page 2 4 . There
ar e
d O Z O l l S
of other options once you ge~ into it.
On the follow ing pages, are ten
profiles
thl lt a re
ju st
a
sampling of the
profiles
you can crea te . Itstarts
with
a v ery basic m old in g tJ l.~ s m ad e b y ro un d
in g
the l i . Qnted ges o f
s tr ip s
of
s t o c k .
Then
w e ad ded v ariation s. W hen you get down
to it, all of
these
moldings
are
just
varia-
tions
of
Simple TOuter
cuts
CHOOSING THE WOOD
A lth ou gh an y w oo d
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W OOOSMITH
Rabbe t
i C ld 10
I Io i d p i ct u re.
TI .. s l r ip
i.
IlIJ.j ·)lttdgold.
A.
I
..\. _
, . , _ . y . . . ._ _ . .
C,a a Iwl/ TUI ,dstrip off
both
edgeJI
lIld gt,..
in lo g ro o lJ C 8.
CROS S_~~gIO_
v.~.
.J.
If Di O ~1.~
IN L A Y
to
II D£D
Nl Y
Complete profil IIY routillg
11 ,'
COt~on edge o f .tock.
4
~~ ~ ~~
I
_r~
r II :
S ec on d s tr ip is
out SqI«U' 011(1
I t I . 1 8
. . 1 . t QV
on ous co rne r
C.,I rabbel first strip
In
Mild . ,d slrip
ilt pl«c~
.1;110·
3
rup
j,,/oll
.trip to siz«
and
Large strip is made tlu:same
,, ,d
0116)
both.
,IU .
way
Oil
Ihe router lable.
If you WlUlt to
add
color to
a fram e
paint
one
of
th e
strips.
We
painted the inside strip on this molding with gOld leaf paint to
hij(l1lillht th e in sid e e dg e.
This mokling is mild. by joining two strips. The o uts id e trip
starI8 ou t
v .
(or
-Y. )
th ick b y 1 '1 1i( wide. O Ve U SIld w1IInut
for this strip.) Then th e e dg es are rounded
with
a
W
reend-ovee
bit, (St.
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S e e o u d
strip
i.
tg robbe t
for ~ .. .
. .
J _ · L - - f ~ ~ ~ _ ~ v J l - : · i
1 . 1
F ;1I 41I y . trim strip
d o l · .
to
fi t
rebbet, otld
glue
it l.
p l a c e .
gQSS s£ gIOJ~
Sec ond ttrip has wide c e r e I
. Ul dt wilh ~ ~
. .
~~
COQIOX
lit
. .
ROUIIH
stVtW
P A S S l S
To comp~teth e ._ d .tri p.
TO,wd
O tIC r
th~
IQ p
edge.
Tit-en
CILt
a
I¥
or ~ ..
r o b O e t to < = C » t
f(((IIrd
strip
Tlum 4 rof( d-OlJ(r:r bit i8
< S e d
to
c reue an
ag e ,rroflle.
RO UNOOYtI t
lit
, .
.
One \vny to c.'Cut.c.a
s m o o th co n te n I OI 8 ty
l o o k to roun d
ov er
all
th e e
> d g e 8 t o
let the pieces
now
togeth er. This frame is
really a variation of the frame show n a t the top of page 13 , excep t
w ith
a eoved piece added to w iden
the whole frsme ..
T he ex tru
w idth is
niter for ~r
prints
or
artwork.
Once
again.
this
molding
starts
b y ro u nd in g o ve r both e d g e s
of
the
strip, Step
I.
Then
cut
a V o,
or . rabbet to aeeept
the second
st rip, S tep 2. To m ake the w ide cove
in the
second
s t r ip , u s e a ¥ .
c O I C
b o x bit a nd m a k e 8 u ( . ( ., () f: S iv e
passe s to
w iden
th e co ve out to t he e dg e of the strip, S tell 3. P ;1llllly, ro ut a ra b be t
to accept Ill.pi ct ure n n d g l l I < s StAll>4.
TlOMTO
. .. .. .. WilTH
C
of f
UtO
adgc
0/ .Irip
to
create ml>belot. '/I id, edge.
7
U8e a straig ht bit
10 Tf)l 10
gr60IX to /told s nd
strip
S A W S IA D t
M
ST.AIGHT
1
6
Then use a
. t j f I f
ro Ukwer bit
to cmlte an agee profile.
Rout both edgea f .1
trip
witlt ~
round ot n bi t
S«
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Rip _ltd .'rill
-Y/ , wiilloulder, Step 5.
3
MaS
I£NCE
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aNlB GltOOYf
O N T HIQ CH E
OF srodc
ROU TEa
. . . . .
RNa
PROt'lLe P.DGES.After
the groove is
cut, rout the profi le
Oil
t he e dg es . III
this
ease, we used a 'I... round-over bit to
round over all rour edges se e Fijr. 2.
~trrBR PRA.ME.Now miter these mold
ins: s tr il>
to
len gth to
lit
ar oun d t.he photo.
(See
the article on
page
20
for
tip.
0 1 1
wis
\V OODSMITH
7
PETA II
G IVE IT YOU R BEST SHOT
f
I tOUT
1.INrI. It
CUTS
INfO
tNSlOe
GROOvr
process.)
And
glue the fr am e p ie ce s
together.
GROOV& .
When
th e
frame is
dry,
rout • · wide groeve centered on
the bottom edge fo r th e key. I cu t
this groove
on
th e route r
tab le u ing
.t ol> o n We fe nc e t o limit tbe lengt h
of the groove, see Fig.
3.
(The
groove
sh ou ld sto p Vo
from
th e
outside edgtlS o[ th e frame.)
Rout. in successlvely deeper
p a s s
e s u nt il
the
bit cuts through
groove on the inside
edge
of the
frame. (Ket>p
this
set-up f o r r out ing
the
m atehing groove in the base.)
THE I lASB .T o
mak e the
base, I
~im ply
ClIt a 10'
bevel
on a
block of
w oo d
se e
Fig.
4. (Note:
Fo r s af et y.
start
with a block about l2 long.
and
cut it to final lengtll
af ter
th e
bevel i eut.)
Next .
I
cut a groove to
ma tch
th e
one in the bottom of
the f rame
U
the same set-up (w ith the stop
blocks) on the router table to rout a
v . . . . . .deep groove, see Fig. 5. Then U8 l n
I0I0 ou nd .. ve
r
bi t
to
ease the
edges.
THE KEY .N ow .
to
join the
frame
to the
base. rip a key Yo (to fit the w idth of the
l.'I'OOv• )
by
to mateh (l,e
to ta l
depw
of beth grooves.) T hen round the end s
to
m atch the groov
es ,
.. . I S C U Y
Tom
GROOVES
IIA '
NOTe: t : : : . 5 1 . - - - - - 1
lW EN ION S
G IV EN A RE
fOIl
eTU t rs
f I G U
W e W 8ntO Oto build. self· slM ding
frame - without. uN ihg one or those
cardboard
back. w ith the hinged
flap. Aftera ~UI~xperimenting,
we came up with a \\ y to mount.the
ftrune
to
a
s
mall
a ng le d b ase .
T1 1Ctrick is t - o CUI n g roove in the
b otto m o f the frame and a matching
groove in
the i > a s 4 > . Then
join
the
tw o ith a key. refer 10Fig. 1.
This groove-and-key trick solves
the problem of supporting the
fram e. and it
also
p ro vid es a w IlY t o
slide
the photo and g I a . . < s in and out
of
the
bottom
of the
frame.
M AKIN G THE FRA ME
To m ake
this
frame.
you have
to
eut,
t he mo ld in g
strips •
~ttle
diIl'erently
than
those show n
on
th e p re vi ou s
~. The m o lding
fo r
this
n-ame
starts
I
a strip M o thick by Y o
(or 0/. )
wide, see rig. 2. (It can
be
ev en w id er if you want a diIl'enlnt
proliJe
on
the
molding.)
GROOV& . Then, Instead
of
cutting' a
rabbet in the molding
strips,
\ gl'OOve is
routOO down the inside edge
to
h old th e
picture and glass. The width of the groove
is
determined
by
adding the thickness
of
the
g l l l s <
(%. ), tho pheto
M o t ,, ,
and th e
b; lCking V ,,). fol' u total of 0 /••
esk rame
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W OODSM lTH
\... -I
h SQUARE
STOC K
l SQ UAR E
SflAC RS
~ .. fH ICk
®
FIRSTCUT
F tNCE
D I : T A l L
H A l I O W O O O
RUNN(A
dow n
to
l t t lqunrc. and cut it to a len gt b this
jig;', to align
lb e
fi...
-e ut fence exact ly
of 8 , see F ig. 2.
90 to
the s ec on d- cut fenoo , and also to
SECONO·O\Tl'.·.:NO£.
The secon d-cut make sur e bo th rene.. are 4& ·
to
lb e right
fence is made
from two Wil ' of
¥. -th ick ed ge
of the b:lJIC
(lb e
path
of
ti le blade) .
stock with two
81 IC O)'
blocks between PRAMIN O SQU AIIB. 'r o al ign the two
them . 'fhCl \Cspacers fonn a
%
slot
used
fen ces , I us ed n
fnulli ng
sq ua re .
Lay
th e
to mou nt the stop bloc k, see F ig. 2. square on
l I e b 1 8 O 1 1 0
the 12
mark
(on th e
To make the
p l l
resaw a
piece
of inner edge of the fIotuningsquare) is on th e
¥. · lbick stock dow n to
%
thick. Then bottom right-hand comer , s ee
Fig.
a .
c ut all' s pa ce r b lo ck s
6
long
and J Y o
long, Then p lace the other 12 inside
mark
on
a n d
gl ue them
betw een
the tw o
strips.
lb. right edge of th. base. T his g ives the
STOP, BIA)C K PENC I( . The stop -block aligD Jnellt you need.
80th
IIl mS ar e
90
to
f ence ; made
th e
same
way
as
the
oocond-
each
other,
and
they're 45·
to the
right
rut
fence bet.
it 's longer.
a n d both s p a c ers
edge o r
th e
baRe.
ar e
only
II .· long. se e
Fig. 2.
MOIM '
PE N C t :S .T o a
the first ,t
SQU AR I(UP PENC t :S .'Vben
the
glue is fence (A l, slide it 8g1linst the framing
dry on
the
o etOnd 'l f en ce
a n d
stop -bIock square so one end is at
the
6
mark.
se e
fence, squa re
up
lh e fro nt an d
b a d <
edges F ig. 3. T hen glue it in p lace.
on a jointer, or by ripping a new
edge. Next.
position t h e second -en
rence
(8)
a g : U n s t
t he o th er
inner
e dg e o f tb e f ra ming
ASSEMBLE
JIG square. (M a ke s ur e
the
end wilb lbe
shor t
Now
th e fen«lS can
b e
mounted to th e
space r is in the inside C orner
of the
plywood boISe. I h. cri tical part of mal ting sq\l8l Cl.)I h.n glue it in p lace,
f f i R ~~mR ~ ~~
For 1M 8«tJ1td eut 11 8< 0~
Itflce pU3i i lil
(he
im .IId ogai 03 lit<
3top block to
3d t ngfh
The
< i te r t il _
oth r
ettd o f 1M p i « . e B .
Tim
j ig
cuUI
~5
lion
011 I I l 1 J 1 d i n g
~rip
lo r
picture frames The jint Cld
it
made on
lU
pi«e8
with the
1I oldj 9 (l{f
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19
OO1)SMITH
.
NOTE ,
OONT CUT TOO
FAR tN TO JiG
R I G H T H ~
fft(cE
9
T hen draw a line down the outside of glue dri es , sc re w
tlll
fe nces to the base .
the triangle for th e leJl;,hand fence . .F lip MOUNTJIG . T o prevent the jig from
th e triangle over to mak e a no th er
45 °
line shifting position, r d rilled h oles and
se
fo r th e ,ight.-halld fence. cured if to the table w ith hex bolts . i';ou
ALIGN 'ENG£$. To
m ake sure the.fences could
also cl amp
the jIg to
the table,
stay at 90
to each
other, [ set a
fram ing USIN GTHE JIG . T o use tJ,e
jig,
cuL t he
square along the reference lines with the firs m iter on one end of all pie ee s w ith the
corner o n th e e rei nee point, an d clamped stock tight against the right.-hand fence.
it to the
base,
T hen clam p a stop
block
to
the letlrhand
To posit ion th e fen ces, place the enda of. fence. Now position Ufe
fil' t
mite c~ l
e ac h fe nee a L t he
2
m ark s o n the o utsid e tight into the cham fered end of th e stop
of the fram ing square. T hen gl ue an d bloc k, and cut al l pi~ to th e correct
clam p the fen..,. to the base. When the length. see IJ 'ig . 2.
~ _ ; : c = r : : : : : : ; : :
I Jl,et
cutting the fences,
I laid
them out on fbebase. T o do th~ ,
first
draw a renter line on the
base, see F ig . J. T h en m ea su re
down 3 from tbe top of the base
an d. m ark a c en te rp oin t. ('), 'h ~
is
a re fe rence point fo r laying out
th e angle of t he ann s. )
IJSE 1'RIANG(.E. N ow ,
to
posi-
tio n th e fe nc es , lay a 46' irIangle
On th e base w ith the 48 angle
ca rner seL on ~he reference
p oin t, e e F ig. L
T h e s am pr oblem s, exist on a ra dia l an n
saw as o n-a ta ble saw . Y ou have to cut 4[j '
m iters, an d lik e pieces have to be· lhe sam e
lengtb. O ne of the biggest llroblenlJl is
a lig nin g th e ra dia l a rm to exactly 4 5 . T he
solution is to build a jig with ou t movin g
parts and mak e straig h~ cuts w ith the saw .
To bu ild
'the
jig,
I cut the 16 x 24 base
from
o/,j
plywood, see. Fig. 1.
FE NCES. T hen there are two fences, a
rig hlrh an d fe nt.. (Used
to
m ake the ill'S t
mitel' cut) and a. Ieft-halld fence
used
to
make
tb e
CeO lJd-eul).
Both
fe nces are cut
2 -wi
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WOODSMlTH
STOPtll~
M lT£R JlC. 'rhe basic _p ro cedU l-e
is
to
cu t a
45°
m iter on
. d
of
a u
pieces
[Jl:S(
Then
tbe
ot l,el' en d
is mite red
to fum
length.
You have several ways to go
here.
Th e.
miters
can
be m ade with
the m iter gauge on
a
table
saw
or
on a r a d i a l ann saw, Either way,
yo u ca n have prob lem s because th e
markings On miter ga uges and
radial arm s an' not oriou sly inaeeu
rate. I v e f O W 1 { l
that
i t s
worth
to
build a
'm iLer j ig ,
see
pag e
18
FIRST CUT tf
you're using U te
ta ble saw jig, th e first cu t
is
made
by 'ho lding the
insi e
edge of the
mo ld in g a ga in st t he
'''first; · cut'' fence
of
the m iter jig,
se e
Fi g,
1.
Hold
it
with a flrm
grip
so the pi ece doesn't
slid. dw ing the cu t,
and pull
the jig
back befo re
r ele as in g you r g il l> .
f
y ou 're u sing a m it er g au ge, ho ld th e
inside edge of the moldi ng
against
t he f ac e
of t ile ga uge. The cut
is
made SO th e long
po int of the miter leads through the saw
blad e, jus t as in Fig.
F£eD RA J E. .A
slow , st eady rate of feed
works
be st .
If
you
go to o
fast, there's
a
gr eate r chance tha t the workpiece
will
slip . JuS t hold it steady an d let the teeth
do the cu tting.
A fter making each cut, do n't let the
strap
pieces co llect near
t l
s aw b la de,
I
cle ar t hem away wit h • long stick.
S £OOND MlT&1l.
After the first m iter is
cut on the ends ofa l l the pieces , the second
m ite '
c a n
b e m arked . Thi s det erm ines the
f in al lengt h
of
each piec e
However,
it' s no t the ove ral l length of
each
piec e th at
counts,
itl s th e length of
th e rabbet o n t he inside edge of eacll piece.
Th e-second
m it er m ust be cut
so
the phot o
01
print (o r mat)
fits
betwee n th e in side
ed ges o f the
' . 'U b l > e l ,
To m ark
this
length, lay a ru le r in the
rabbet of on e frame piece,
see Fig.
2.
The
second miter is marked off on the in side
edge of the rabbet so th e measurem ent
miters
There
ar e wo
cr it ical
measure-
m eat s h e... The
miters must
be
45 ,
'q d
~he opposite pieces of the fram e (t'he tw o
sides , and the_topibo tt om ) m ust be
exactly
t he sam e len gt h.
The procedure I follow has a lo t
to
do
with th is second criteri a, O ften
too
much
attention is pa id
to
th e 45' an gle, But
if
oppos it e p ie ces
31.
not.
m llll
th e same
length you have effectively changed the
jo in~ angle, an d t here
will
be gaps even if
th e mit ers
are
cu t at
exactly 45 .
ROVGH LENGTH. J start
by cutting
a U
th e moldi ng stock to
rough
le ng th . Wo rk
in g w ith shorter pieces is always easier,
'1'0
de term ine the rough lengt h,
measure
the out side dimensions of the
ph otogtaph or pmnt you're
fr am ing
A l s O
measure
the
wi llt of
th e molding
stock
Now
3(ld
t\vice
the
wid th or the molding
stock to the dimensiollj; of the p ic tu re , and
add
at
least I
ex tra to give yourse lf some
room
to
work .
T£S1 l'I 'A1 \1 £ ,
Afte,·
al l
of
the
pi eces
are
cut to rough length, you can cut the miters.
How eve r, it' s always be st to start with
so me
S < o a p
pieces to make a
tes t
fram e.
M aking the m olded pieces for ~ pic
ture
fram e is only bnlf
the fu n
The
ot her b nlf is cut tin g
the
fou r f ra rt le
pieces
with
perfect
miters
The
chal
lenge , of course , is to create a f ram e
with no gnps at the com ers, O kay,
then
why do
gaps
always
seem
to
appear in the m iters?
Gaps in the mitered com ers of
a
frame ca n be a result of four thing s:
1
the m iters
may
not be
cu t at
ext y 4 5 ; 2)
the oPPll itep ieces in
th e
frame aren t tJ y
the sam e
length;
3)
the pieces
wer-en b
_ l a m p e < witb the m iters h eld t ig ht
in the first place; or
4)
the.
frame
piec... ha ve ex panded or co ntracted
(with
changes
in hum idity),
The
lirst
two problems can be
so lv ed by following
a good
cutting
pro ced ure and u sing a m iter cutt ing
jig (su ch
as
th e on e sh ow n o n pag es
~g.19),
T he c lam pin g p ro blem can b e so lved w it h
one of the frame clamps shown on pages
22-23,
T he fo urt h p robl em is just a
matter
of age -
and
no one has resolved that
problem .
(See
Talking. S hop on page
22,)
SmlNG UP THESAW
The proced ur e we
use
to
cu t m ite rs is
pr ett y
easy.
The first th ing t o co nsider is
the saw blade, W hen cutt ing miters,
I
se
a carbide-t ipped r s s u t blade. Co mbina
t ion b lades
are nice
mos t of the time.
But
I
use a
c ro ss cu t b la de with 60 or 80 teeth
(such as th e Freud thin kerf LU88 M or
LU85M)
to cut m it ers . T hes e b la de s make
n ice sm oo th cut s t hat a re e as ier to glue.
S£TBLAD Even with
a
»OI'fect blade,
yo u
can
still hav e problems. W l)en the
bl ade is mounted , check it with a try
square
to m ake
sure it s
exactly
00 to
~he
top of the table.
CunlNG THEMITERS
When the saw
is
set up, work can begin
o n m it er ing. the frame piec es
to
length.
B ut t his is
lIJ~
us t a matter of cutting
45
fIGURE
T IPS AND TECHNIQUES FOR A PERFECTFRAME
I
A1JGN
P£NCI~
M R k w nH
S W T O OJ H
l HGTHOf
PICtU~E:_
PlUS v , .
rame etails
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AfteJ· b~ildinga fo:ame,the ne~t step is to
mount the gla.'lS,picture. mat if o
,NAIL IN PLACE.
use
'I, '
bratl.
behind
the hackipg to hold everyO)ingin tigl,t. If
the u=e is made ,vilh soft wood, you call
PI the brl\ds ill with needle-nosepliers.
With harder woods, it's easi.. · to use a
~peciaJ 1001called a Brad Point Nailer.
(About 10 in most mail orde.· ca~Qgs.)
.:).nothermethod for pressing the brads
info place \ISe Clumnel-(,oclt
p li C l S ,
see
art
belo\v.'1'0prev~nl m..mnl ' the f.=e,
place a p iec e of cardboard on the outside
edge of the u-ame. Then set the ,vidth of
Ihe pliers and squ... .e th~ b•-adin place.
8ACI mG.
When eveeyOllngis in place.
I CClverhe hackwithbl OWl1l)Opero ake
WOODSMlTH 2 1
it
dustp_f.
(A b ro w n g ro cery bag
works
line. ). Cut the paper a little smaller th an
the back of the frame 'I'hen run a tbin
bead
of yellowglue
a ro und
the back
e dge
of
th e fram e
and press the paper down.
Next use a Spl 3:\t mis te r or damp sponge
to moistenthe
paper w eD .
Keep the frame
back-sideup unm the paper and glue dry.
(A hai l dryw 'speeds it along), 'When
jt ' . .
dry ,
the papel shrinks up drum tight.
HANGIT UP.Tbe only thing left is to
hang up the frame. For a heavy
1 1 , , ,
I
use tw o pic ture han gers and wrap p icture
wire through tile loops see drawing
below. It puts IIijlSsl.J'e$son the joints to
hang a frame thi s way thai) from the lop.
Filuilly, [ glue rubber bumpers at the
bottom to keep the llictw from shifting.
MOUNT N
dots, put the glue on onlyone side of each
eq ua ls Ole size of the picture you're fram joint. Kee p it at least 00 away fr om the because nailing can break the gluejOint.
ing plus Yi~ extra , e 1 g e so won't 0 0 7 e out, onto the faces Deciding U M r e to nail is
no-win
The most common problem here is to of the molding. situation. ITyou nail through the top and
makemar ks on all
C o u r
p ie ce s and then tr y
CLAlIIPING UP
After the glue is applied, bottom of the frame and then bang the
to cut exactly on the marks. Thi s is almost qui ckly clamp up the four sides of the frame on the wal l, you won't see the nau'
im possible to do. frame. There's a tendency to overtighten from the sides, But I usually .. i iI on the
The miter jig is designed to eliminate here. Whatever clampingmethod you use, side of lhe frame (8 1,
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cUt·saAr
SAM E
sttE ASflIAME
WOODSMITM
AS$ KMlll.Y .Now 8Ssem~le th e f ix tW 'l
by Hlippil\g ~ 36 · long p iece or
V ,
th readed ..od through th e o a d o e . . Then
ad d w in g nu ts 011 belth ensL'
U$I «GTIlE Fll\l· lIRE. To use the fixture,
I alw a y s s ta rt . by w,, xing th e to)) o f the
blocks t o
keep
th e fl'3 lle
(rom
sticking if
any
glue
o oz es o ut If th e miter.
Then
Ja y
th e bJoo .ksdow n on n D a~'sw faee so the
threaded rods C t 0 8 S e ac h o t.h er in an 4 IX .J ,
(N ole: U nless the frame is square, th e
ro ds won 't c ro ss
ttl
9 turn eaPJ l>8 i i. the
teosened block. N .. xt glue the l emaininIJ
three corners an« set the piec es in place,
NOWslide
tbe loose block
in
aJ>(
tigh~n
al l th e wjng nuts.
A r . everything
is
in place , cl1eck each
corn er O f the C rame (0 be Sl II 'e (he jo in ts
~ t ~t\ Don' t overt ighten. Just b.1ng
lh eni tog~tIJe,. qntil the j~int closes up.
One more thing. We found thnt th is
clam p w orks
be st
Io r squ lU 'C frames
0,.
tb oRe t haL aI'I close
to sqlla.'(
(5x'7
and
Ss
10).
(~· s
harder
to
hold
lOng.
reetanguJal'
or odd · $haped
r , . . , , , S
tig) ih th is
-
8/20/2019 Woodsmith - 060
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WOOOSMITH
4
• 4) Medium Rings for moldings 1 to
1 M , wide.
• (4) Large Rings for moldings IM , '
to
2 V , , '
wide
Metal Spring Clamp Plier Tool,
Order No.
611-404, 39.95.
Shop-Made WoodeD Spring Clamp
Plier Tool, (Includes plans and hardware,
you provide the wood.) Order No. 760-
720, $4.95.
PICTURE HANGING SUPPLIES
Once you finish
build in g
a 6-ame, the
best
w ay to hru lg it on the wall is with hinged
ha nge l'S and
picture
frame
wire,
se e ih e
box on page 2 1. W < re offering three kits
th.~ include b ras s-plated .ha ngers , picture
fram e
wii:e,
hooks, and rubber bumpers to
keel) the
pi ct u re f rom sh if tin g
on
the wal l .
Lightweil¥ht Picture Frame Hang
ing
Kit,
(for
SxlO
n-ames and
sm alle r)
Order No. 760-810, $5.95. Includes
enough material for six
fr am es :
• (1 2 )
Hinged Hangers,
4
long,
with Vf;N · lo ng SCl 'e\V S.
• (10 ft Braided PictureF 'r iu ne W i re ,
• (12 )
nubbe,· Bumpers,
se lf-adhesive.
• (6)
Lightweight
Wal l
Books.
a~vy
Picture Fnune Hanging Kit, .#I:)
Order No. 760-820, $9.95.
In cludes
'l / '
enough material for six frames;
• (12) Heavy Hinged Hangers, 1
lon g w ith, ~ '-Jo ng sc re w s.
• (15
fl..)
Braided
Picture Fl-ame
\V ire.
• (12) Rubber
Bumpers,
se l f-adbesiv e .
• (6) \VaII
Hooks.
Extra Heavy Frame Hanging Kit,
Order No. 760·880, $12.95. Includes
enough material for -s ix f tl lmes:
• (12) Exb:a Heavy Hinged Hangers,
Jo/,( ' long, with % -Iong screws.
• (25
1 1 : . ) Braided
Pitt ,-e F rame IV il-e.
• (12 ) Rubber Bumpers, self-ad hes ive,
• (6) E~trs Heavy Wall Hooks.
STEP STOOL
Wood.mil l l.
is offering all of
th e ha rdwa r e
needed to
build
th -e step sto o l.
Step
Stool Hardware,
Order No.
760-110, $6.95, This Irncksgeincludes:
• l
pair) Solid Brass Hinges, 1' I ,
long,
2
open width, with screws.
• (1) Brass Chain, 12 long, with Lwo
No. 3
x
( roundhead brass SCl-eWS.
• (1) Brass-Plated Elbow Cateh and
Strike Plate, screws, nail included.
DISPLAY EASEL
W oodsm ilh is
al so offering the hardware
needed to b uild the
displ;ly
e ase l,
pisplay Easel Hardware, Order
No. 760-210, 88 .95. Thls package includes:
• (12 ) Birch Gallery Spindles, 2%
ove n
length.
• (2 )
B irch TIe Rack Pegs, 2> ',,' long,
fit 0/ ,, hole.
• (1) rBrass
Turn
Button with N o. 3
x
v . ,
PhBrass Woodscrew.
ROIITtR BITS FOR MOLDINGS
All of
th e
picture
f i-ame
moldings shown
On
pages
13-16
ar e
made with only eight
router bits. We are offering these t>its
individually or as a set with either y..
shanks or v , , ' shanks. (We rec ommend
v . , shank bits
jf
your router collet w ill
accept
th em .)
All of the bits a , heavy-duty, earbide
tipped steel. We use these same bits in the
W ood$ » ifh
shop.
0;. &traight Bit, 1 0 cutting length,
single Oute (VI shank only).
• y, Shank , N o, 271-003, 9.95 .
Y - l ' Straight Bit, two flutes.
• \II' Shank,
1
cutting length, No.
271-625, 10.95.
• v ,
Shank, : y , ; cutting' length. No.
2'7 ,1-005, 12.95 .
';. Straight Bi4 two flutes.
• y , . Shank, I cutting length, No.
271 -613,~12 .95.
• v . ,
Shank,
l
cutting length, No.
271 · 676 ,
12.95 .
/ It Round-Over
it
sometimes
called a comer- rounding bit).
• v .
Shank, No. 2'71-811 , 2 3.9 5.
• It Shank, No. 27 1-821, 26.95 .
';' Round-Over Bit.
• '.4 Shank, No. 2'71-814 , 23.95 .
• f Shank, N o. 2' 71-823, 24.95:
0
Round-Over Bit.
• '.4 Shank, No. 27 1 · 81 7, 2 4.95.
• 1 0 Shank, No. 2'71-826 , 25 .95.
y,
Core Bo Bit (sometimes called a
roundnose bit).
• '.4 ' Sh an k, No. 27 1 -721, 21 .95 .
• Y o '
Sha nk , No.
ZU·W, 25.95.
0 / , . Core Box Bit.
• '.4 Shank, N o. 2' 71-724, 22.9, .
• h Shank, No. 2'71·733, 29.95 .
Set
of
E ig ht B ita
(listed above).
• ' . o '
S han k, N o .
'/60-300.
Total
price
if
-the bits are purchased separately:
.tI;I.60. Price for the se~ of a ll e ig hb
bits: 134.95
• v ,
Shank , Order No. 760-400. (No t e :
J A i
Stl tlight Bit. \v ill have ' / 4
shank.) Total price if the bits are
purchased
separately: 169.60.
Price
for the se t of all eighL bits : ~149.95 .
CROSSCUT BLADE
In the
ar ticle
on making picture n-ames,
we mentioned the importance of having a
good crosscut blad e fol' c-uttingmiters. The
one we use is a
thin
kerf
Freud
LU88M.
You can find
this
blade at many wood
w orking sto res and
in
mail o rd e r c ata lo g s,
or you can order it through Wood8mi lh:
Freud LU88M Saw Blade, thin kerf
( . J 9 0 inch),
10:'
dia, , 60 teeth, 1 ( bore,
Order No. 226-115, 88 9.90.
fRAME CLAMPING JIG
On page 23, we-showed plans lfor a shop
made jigIOI' clamping
pi c tu re f rames. Most
of this is standard hardware; but
if
you
caD't find it locally we are offering all or
the hardware as a kit. Another kit .is
available thnt includes the hardware and
pre-drilled maple blocks.
Frame Clamping Jig Hardware.,
Order No. 760-610, .$9.95. Includes:
• (2 ) Threaded Rods, W ' x 36'.
• (4)
;1,
Wing Nuts.
• A t
Dowel R ed, 36 long.
• M , LD. Plastic Tubing, 8 long.
Frame Clamping Jig, Wood and
Hardware, Order No. 760-620, $24.95.
This pac kage inclu de s;
• All of the hardware listed in No.
760-610 (above ). I--------------j
• Four Hardwood Blo.cks measuring ORDER IN G IN FO RMA TIO N
2 Y . i x 8M , x 4 . Bloc ks are pre - r---------------i
drilled fp r threaded, rods and dowels. To order tile project SUpplies, mai l in the
MITER SPRING CLAMPS ol'll r Co,'mon th e protective cover of this
issue, oi'
call
the
to Uill....
number
listed
On palle
22 ,
we mentioned that miter below. If ordering
by
mail, send your
spling clamps ru-e a good way to clamp order and payment to:
mite r joints. W.e're of)'emig a set with
three sizes of miter spl'ng clamps (lings). Woodsmith P ro je