wraps in the history of costume - janet duer 1902

8/20/2019 Wraps in the History of Costume - Janet Duer 1902

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Mattie Edwards Hewitt

A CHINCHILLA CLOAK



Wraps in the History of Costume

BY JANET DUER

demand for certain materials, colors andstyles. Among primitive people, such asthe races that inhabit countries wherethe climate does not demand clothingfor warmth, it is not worn as it is in thecivilized world, because of its ornamentalcharacter-real or supposed-or to satisfycivilized ideas of modesty. Generallyspeaking, the more simple the-- race thegreater the love of ornament- and it is inthe wearing of numerous, necklaces, earrings, bracelets, amulets, -anklets and'other jewelry of this character thatprimitive interest lies. rather- than in,clothing. that- either would -protect . rornament their bodies; To illustrate whatlittle heed is given to the subject of warmclothing for protection from the elements,.consider. for instance the ' atives ofTierra del Fuego, who wear only a square.

of otter skin, about the'-size of a. handker-.chief, which is laced across the breast bystrings and can be shifted from side toside, according to -the direction of the

wind. The. ornament of barbaric people,.however, 'is. of importance,- as -the dis

tinguishing mark of rank or social statusof both men and women..

During the -early Christian. era' thecloak or- cape expressed the flowing linesof all dress -and was the accepted outer.garment. In the. Sixth century thesetook on the character- of vestments in.

ecclesiastical use, being held -togetherwith jeweled clasps or with brooches-atthe throat. Others were worn with one

end of the cloak draped over the oppositeshoulder. As the centuries advanced,the cloak became the grand garment Iand was heavily banded with ornament.Veil draperies also often took the placeof the more elaborate cloak during this

period.In the Eighteenth century, the jacket,

HILE society may lay down arule that the higher the standing

-JI;i of a civilized inadividual themore frequently does he change

his clothes, the custom of wearing anouter garment by all people in all ele

ments of society has been made universal,through climatic necessity, if not fromtraditional use. .The modern wrap, therefore, is but the glorification of. the shawl,the cape; the cloak or mantle of formertimes, and of the skins of animals ofeven an earlier period-all used for thesame purpose throughout.the history of

man-protection and warmth. In viewof this it is interesting to. note the evolution of the present day coat or wrap andto see how logically. and how easily itgradually became the graceful and comfortable.outer garment it now is.-.

Turning to the age of primitive man,the skins, of animals were utilized -notonly as a covering to provide warmthbut to afford a certain protection to thebody, for the aborigine was, perforce, ahunter, and as such, subjected to bodilydangers. Then as *the knowledge ofweaving introduced the utilization ofvegetable fibre, crudely woven .strips, of

material soon took the form.of the shawland by using two shawls, up to the

armpits and fastening the-ends together

over the shoulder, the tunic was evolved.Sleeves were then formed by adding athird shawl, fitted and shaped to the arm.

When the front of the garment was sewnup or left open only a short distance inthe centre near the neck, it became atunic, and when open the entire lengthof the front, a coat.

Having an outline such as this, as abasis, the variation of trimming andelaboration soon became a feature of the

passing fashion, each era bringing its339



340 ART & LIFE

PORTRAIT OF A YOUNG ROMAN MATRON. BY SEBAS

TIANO DFL PIOMBO

made long over the hips and fitted tothe figure, was dictated by the trend offashion in costume. This jacket form of

garment was 'fur-trimmed, chieflywith

ernine heavily embroidered and ornamented with jewels. The jacket reappeared as late as the Fifteenth centuryand with it the high collar rather thanthe earlier square cut or round neck.

Later in the Seventeenth century theruff and collar found their most elaborateexpression in Elizabeth's time, as didthe entire -wardrobe of those at c'ourt,raiment which vied with that -of the restof Europe in the splendor and extravagance of embroidered and jewelled'stuffs.

In the Eighteenth century, capes with'hoods found favor, as the headdressesof the period would not readily admit of

wearing hats, and great full cloaks wereworn to cover the paniers and quiltedsatin petticoats of the mode. Lightgauze scarfs were carried and the silksand satins of gowns and cloaks had muchgold, silver and colored silk needlework.

About I835 heavy mantles, capes and

pelisses appeared, much braided and

trimmed with fringe. Then came thereturn of the V-shaped shawl with itsfringed edges, a survival of an accidentaloccurrence in weaving, when, in the earlylooms, the threads of the warp were left

hanging.While the shawl was the simp

lest and earliest of wraps, its popularitywas not to be diminished by the changingfashions in Great Britain, for it became

the' national garment of Ireland andWales and in Scotland was the forerunner

of the characteristic Scotch mantle.Throughout the Victorian reign, India

and Paisley shawls continued to be worn,then followed the vogue for mantles of a

cumbersome type, short silk capes withlong, fring-trimmed pointed fronts, andlater, in the '6o's, the close fitting shortcoat- and the Zouave jacket.

After the passing of some fifty years,during which women's wraps conformedin character to the width. of skirt and sizeof the sleeves of the gown worn beneaththem, the modern wrap has developedinto a becoming and voluminous gar

ment, invariably fur trimmed, with a soltrolling collar that envelops the throat,and constitutes the dominating featureof the entire garment. That the fur

may yield itself more readily to the outline of the- throat and head, it is oftensewn in narrow strips on chiffon, havingthe effect of a single pelt and yet thepliability of a soft, light weight material.Be it for summer or winter wear fur isthe undeniable preference in trimmingfor wraps for evening wear, which mayhave as their foundation material, metalbrocade of satin or velvet, or a one-tonedvelvet of some rich coloring. Chinchilla,sable, ermine and the fox furs are amongthose most used.

In the matter of day-time wear wehave, indeed, turned to primitive dressin the acceptance- of leather as a materialfor motor coats and in the use of fur foran entire outer garment. We havelearned, like our predecessors that thesetextures, and these only can withstandthe biting winter vwinds of northerncountries.



Mattle Edwards Hewitt

A CHINCHILLA CLOAK

wraps in the history of costume - janet duer 1902

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