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WWD STYLE MILAN — Emerging from one of its worst spells in memory, Italy’s beauty industry is attempting to innovate its way back to prosperity. Some of Milan’s leading retailers, including La Rinascente, Mazzolari and Gruppo Coin, plan to open new floors, departments or concept stores devoted largely to niche perfumery. Meanwhile, Intercos, the industry’s premier color cosmetics supplier, is flirting with the prospect of going public in 2014. “I think that the perfumery chan- nel of distribution is realizing finally there’s a different way to run busi- ness,” said Fabio Franchina, presi- dent of Unipro, the Italian associa- tion of cosmetics companies. Italy’s perfumery segment regis- tered a 0.7 percent gain to 2.26 bil- lion euros, or $3 billion at average exchange, in 2010 after a couple of years of losses. The domestic improvement primed the pump for Italy’s export machine, which soared 17 percent on-year to 2.39 bil- lion euros, or $3.17 billion. Exports to Hong Kong, for instance, spiked 54 percent. “It’s the intelligent way to enter China,” said Franchina. “More than 200,000 people come from China to Hong Kong to shop daily.” On the eve of opening its 13,993-square-foot store — including a 3,767-square-foot perfumery — in Rome’s main train station, Paolo Valerio, Gruppo Coin perfume and cosmetics manager, discussed fu- ture openings. Slated for August on Milan’s Corso Vittoria Emanuele on the site of a former cinema is Excelsior. Valerio described it as a boutique, concept and department store hybrid. It should include a corner of “emerging” brands, such as Aesop, Kiehl’s and Organic Pharmacy, and a brow bar, which he called the first of its kind in Italy. There’s also to be an “olfactory” fra- grance bar featuring a large selection of niche brands “to give character to the perfumery,” said Valerio. Such concepts are meant to con- tinue fueling Coin’s strong growth. In 2010, its perfumery business reg- istered a 15 percent gain, while the rise was 5 percent on comparable- store basis. Expanding on its high-end niche concept, Mazzolari is building a nearly 4,305-square-foot addition to its 17,222-square-foot store, devoted entirely to the category. Scheduled to open in September, it’s one floor under the main retail space and has a turn-of-the-century perfumery feel. Antique cabinets line walls and will stock “brands with history” such as Amouage, Cartier and Tom Ford, ac- cording to Augusto Mazzolari, found- er of the perfumery chain. {Continued on page 3} Italian Industry Putting Focus On Innovation BEAUTY Cosmoprof Goes Green The Cosmoprof fair in Bologna, Italy, is turning into a beauty show for nature lovers. In a year when traditional perfumery offerings seemed to fade, there was a leafy profusion of cosmetics with organic and natural ingredients. Even the hair product brands were talking up sustainability and turning their booths into gardens. There also were panel discussions on the meaning of being green. For Cosmoprof coverage, see page 2. PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DIFFERENT STANDARD The hip New York hotel drew a different kind of crowd for the launch of a new skin care line. PAGE 4 BY KERRY OLSEN and PETE BORN

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Page 1: WWDSTYLE - WordPress.comIn 2010, its perfumery business reg-istered a 15 percent gain, while the rise was 5 percent on comparable-store basis. Expanding on its high-end niche concept,

WWDSTYLEMILAN — Emerging from one of its worst spells in memory, Italy’s beauty industry is attempting to innovate its way back to prosperity.

Some of Milan’s leading retailers, including La Rinascente, Mazzolari and Gruppo Coin, plan to open new fl oors, departments or concept stores devoted largely to niche perfumery. Meanwhile, Intercos, the industry’s premier color cosmetics supplier, is fl irting with the prospect of going public in 2014.

“I think that the perfumery chan-nel of distribution is realizing fi nally there’s a different way to run busi-ness,” said Fabio Franchina, presi-dent of Unipro, the Italian associa-tion of cosmetics companies.

Italy’s perfumery segment regis-tered a 0.7 percent gain to 2.26 bil-lion euros, or $3 billion at average exchange, in 2010 after a couple of years of losses. The domestic improvement primed the pump for Italy’s export machine, which soared 17 percent on-year to 2.39 bil-lion euros, or $3.17 billion. Exports to Hong Kong, for instance, spiked 54 percent.

“It’s the intelligent way to enter China,” said Franchina. “More than 200,000 people come from China to Hong Kong to shop daily.”

On the eve of opening its 13,993-square-foot store — including a 3,767-square-foot perfumery — in Rome’s main train station, Paolo Valerio, Gruppo Coin perfume and cosmetics manager, discussed fu-ture openings. Slated for August on Milan’s Corso Vittoria Emanuele on the site of a former cinema is Excelsior. Valerio described it as a boutique, concept and department store hybrid. It should include a corner of “emerging” brands, such as Aesop, Kiehl’s and Organic Pharmacy, and a brow bar, which he called the fi rst of its kind in Italy. There’s also to be an “olfactory” fra-grance bar featuring a large selection of niche brands “to give character to the perfumery,” said Valerio.

Such concepts are meant to con-tinue fueling Coin’s strong growth. In 2010, its perfumery business reg-istered a 15 percent gain, while the rise was 5 percent on comparable-store basis.

Expanding on its high-end niche concept, Mazzolari is building a nearly 4,305-square-foot addition to its 17,222-square-foot store, devoted entirely to the category. Scheduled to open in September, it’s one fl oor under the main retail space and has a turn-of-the-century perfumery feel. Antique cabinets line walls and will stock “brands with history” such as Amouage, Cartier and Tom Ford, ac-cording to Augusto Mazzolari, found-er of the perfumery chain.

{Continued on page 3}

Italian Industry Putting FocusOn Innovation

BEAUTY

CosmoprofGoes Green

The Cosmoprof fair in Bologna, Italy, is turning into a beauty show for nature lovers. In a year when traditional perfumery

o� erings seemed to fade, there was a leafy profusion of cosmetics with organic and natural ingredients. Even the hair product

brands were talking up sustainability and turning their booths into gardens. There also were panel discussions on the meaning of

being green. For Cosmoprof coverage, see page 2.

PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI

DIFFERENT STANDARDThe hip New York hotel drew a different kind of crowd for the launch of a new skin care line. PAGE 4

BY KERRY OLSEN and PETE BORN

Page 2: WWDSTYLE - WordPress.comIn 2010, its perfumery business reg-istered a 15 percent gain, while the rise was 5 percent on comparable-store basis. Expanding on its high-end niche concept,

beauty2 WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, MARCH 25, 2011

BY KERRY OLSEN AND PETE BORN

BOLOGNA, ITALY — Cosmoprof, once the bastion of old-world perfumery, has gone green.

Organic products bloomed in abundance in the natural pavil-ion, otherwise designated as halls 25 and 26. Fabio Franchina, president of UniPro, the Italian association of cosmetics com-panies, highlighted the above-average growth in retail channels where natural and organic products are sold. Herbalist shops in-creased their sales 5.5 percent last year to 365 million euros, or $484.7 million at average exchange. Revenues from pharmacies continued their strong upward trajectory. In 2010, their sales rose 3.3 percent to 1.47 billion euros, or $1.95 billion.

The four-day Cosmoprof trade show, which ended Monday in Bolgona, Italy, had undergone a marked change in complexion. The traditional heart of the fair, hall 36 that housed selective-mar-ket perfumery brands in former years, was moved to two smaller, parallel areas. The natural category dramatically rose in visibil-ity. Meanwhile, the hair pavilions held their own and the Chinese contingent grew in number and prominence. Overall, the num-ber of attendees to this Cosmoprof session climbed 21.1 percent to 177,287, while the foreign visitor count increased 8 percent to 36,076, according to Aureliana De Sanctis.

The Accademia del Profumo went ahead with drawing a crowd to its perennial awards ceremony, an important event consider-ing two-thirds of the prestige beauty market in Europe is driven by fragrance. However, a number of notable key players were ab-sent from visiting the fair, just as major international and Italian houses were not among the ranks of exhibitors.

De Sanctis described the trade show as a barometer for the sector. “The selective perfumery is having problems in terms of sell-out and is not able to renovate itself,” she said.

Hinting at plans for Cosmoprof in 2012, De Sanctis said if lead-ing perfume companies return to the trade show’s fold, it should be in the form of events that generate both consumer awareness and stimulate business-to-business interest, rather than just rent-ing a booth as in years gone by.

“I’d prefer to see more of what Chanel did this season at the fair,” she said, referring to an invitation-only event held by the brand at the trade show’s VIP area, called Cosmoprof Privè. “The future of the sector at the fair is creating an experience through parties, invit-ing celebrities from TV spots on-site and building a mood.”

On the natural theme, De Sanctis said she hopes to add a green packaging area to next year’s Cosmopack session.

During this edition, the trade show devoted an entire day of conferences to the subject of natural and organic product certifi -cation and discussions by individual brands about how to navigate the new green beauty landscape. Cosmos, the international non-profi t association, was touting its new certifi cation program for natural and organic products.

Amarjit Sahota, director of Organic Monitor, said the European natural and organic beauty market is estimated to be worth 1.7 billion euros, or $2.4 billion at current exchange, and that it dou-bled in size over fi ve to six years. He said there’s ample room for gains, since the segment’s share is only about 3 percent of the total beauty market. Germany generates the most sales, with about half the revenue, followed by France, Italy and the U.K.

This year, Sahota expects the European natural and organic business to grow 12 percent, despite hurdles such as the jumble of certifi cation, shelf space saturation and the infl ux of major play-ers and private label brands, such as Hennes & Mauritz, Boots Organic and Aldi.

Ido Leffl er, co-founder of Yes To, was unfazed by the private-label competition. “They’re the best thing to happen in this indus-try by creating awareness,” he said. Leffl er also dismissed worries that the forest of product certifi cation labels is confusing consum-ers and unnecessary.

“They don’t care if you have a seal,” said Leffl er. “They trust what is being told to them on YouTube.”

He said Yes To had just entered Wal-Mart, and it’s now in 28,000 doors with more than 70 products. The brand also has part-nered with Whole Foods to plant gardens in U.S. public schools.

One theme that ran through the speeches was the problem of supplying quality raw material, with a number of companies try-ing to take a more vertical approach to achieve sustainability.

Another speaker was Mirja Kloss, head of international mar-keting of cosmetics at Weleda, which is celebrating its 90th birth-day this year. The brand had introduced in January its Skin Food cream and in May will come out with its Wild Rose deodorant.

Unique Products, a two-year-old Danish company with 16 units, is to start selling anti-aging skin care this August. The or-ganic, fair trade and sustainable brand bases its product formula-tion on weight, culled from cast-off ingredients from cheese mak-ing, and traditional Scandinavian herbs, such as heather.

Also from Scandinavia was Swedish organic skin-care brand Estelle & Thild. Distributed in 400 doors region-wide, it was founded in 2007. Recent launches include an anti-stretch mark oil last spring that became a bestseller.

Les Fleurs de Bach was launching its fi rst organic fragrances, called Eaux d’Elixir, which incorporate Bach fl ower essences. The trio is set for an introduction in mid-April. The brand is cur-rently rolling out its debut anti-stress skin-care line.

“It doesn’t address specifi c problems, but well-being using proven ingredients like aloe vera,” said Annick Masseglia-Thireau, commercial and marketing director at Les Fleurs de Bach.

Also launching organic skin care was Cosmofarma, a 35-year Italian beauty maker. Its three-step antiaging product line in-cludes packaging listing target age categories — 20- to 30-year-olds, for instance.

For hair, Abaché was debuting Colour.Pro, a 19-unit collection of organic products to be used in conjunction with the hair col-oring process. The idea is to protect scalps from chemical pen-etration. Items from it will be available in salons and also some pharmacies, such as No Stain No Pain Shield for scalp protection.

Spotted within the selective perfumery section was The Berkeley Square brand from London, which was presenting its Royal Ballet body line, due out in June.

There was also a new Black Cassis women’s fragrance line, also slated for a June introduction. Eurocosmesi, a division of the Coswell Group that’s celebrating its 50th birthday this year, was introducing — among other novelties — Transvital sun care with SPF 50-plus. It’s to be launched at the end of March worldwide.

— WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM JENNIFER WEIL

Cosmoprof at a Turning PointItalian beauty fair mirrors the industry’s shift to wellness and natural-based products.

PHOT

OS B

Y DA

VIDE

MAE

STRI

Luciano Bertinelli, chief executive offi cer of Ferragamo Parfums and chairman of Italy’s Accademia del Profumo.

Pernilla Ronnberg, managing director and founder of Estelle & Thild.

Andrea Santangelo, marketing executive for Aveda Italy.

FOR MORE STORIES AND PHOTOS

FROM COSMOPROF SEE

WWD.com

Page 3: WWDSTYLE - WordPress.comIn 2010, its perfumery business reg-istered a 15 percent gain, while the rise was 5 percent on comparable-store basis. Expanding on its high-end niche concept,

3WWDSTYLE FRIDAY, MARCH 25, 2011

Antonella Mandelli, general manager of Mazzolari, in discuss-ing the selection of niche brands, explained it’s not just about their having a limited distribution, but “they need to have class.”

Mazzolari likened today’s perfumeries to fruit and vegetable sellers. “The idea is to do something different,” he said.

Also hot on the trail of something different is La Rinascente, which is revamping its beauty area for later this year with the addition of organic and natural skin-care brands plus niche fra-grances among products to meet the ever more sophisticated consumer. One such initiative is the introduction of Tom Ford’s 80-unit makeup collection — an extension of his lipstick line — which will be the department store’s exclusive for Italy most like-ly starting in October.

Talking about the evolving retail experience, Celso Fadelli, founder and chief executive offi cer of Intertrade Europe Group, said, “People are changing the way they buy. Consumers consider shopping more of an experience than just using their credit card.”

Fadelli has been introducing new retail concepts. He opened a 2,368-square-foot store in Modena in December. It takes a similar selling strategy as that of his Avery Fine Perfumery in London, which is fi tted out like an apartment and downplays branding.

“Niche is no more than 5 percent of normal perfumery. What is interesting is that the space is growing,” said Fadelli, adding

major names are trying to elbow their way into the segment.He ticked off numerous department stores devoting more

space to niche fragrances, including Liberty, House of Fraser and Selfridges in the U.K.; France’s Printemps, and Japan’s Isetan and Takashimaya.

When asked why so many small brands fail to fl ower, Fadelli said, “the missing part is investment.”

He is adding Sweden’s Agonist to his beauty portfolio. Coming up on March 31 is the third edition of Esxence, a niche

fragrance trade show Fadelli organizes with Silvio Levi, owner of Calè Srl, that is gaining traction fast. Last year, it drew in excess of 4,000 visitors from more than 30 countries. “We are expecting more this year,” said Fadelli.

Also putting on its annual show was Intercos, which opened its trend forecast on March 15 at company headquarters in Agrate Brianza, Italy, outside of Milan. With a 40th anniversary coming up in 2012, Intercos turned to its roots by framing its presenta-tion with vibrant colors. For the fi rst time, Intercos showcased a new technology, called Prisma Shine, said to be a next-generation powder giving pure, luminous color.

On Intercos’ radar is a possible public offering in Milan in 2014, according to Dario Ferrari, the company’s founder and president.

“I’d like to keep control of the company,” he said.Meantime, Intercos aims to generate sales of about 345 million

euros, or $487.4 million at current exchange. Last year, revenues gained 20 percent to 245.2 million euros, or $325.6 million at aver-age exchange, driven by restocking and new products.

“Last year was very good in terms of numbers; it was almost back to 2008 levels, which was the best year ever,” said Ferrari.

For 2011, Intercos’ sales target is set at 280 million euros, or $395.6 million. Ferrari said international business can help spur growth. In Brazil, Intercos’ new production facility near São Paulo is expected to be operational in six months.

China’s another key frontier. In its trend presentation, Intercos featured a budget-priced cosmetics line targeting that market.

“We need to compete with the local brands,” said Ferrari. “We want to be a little bit Chinese.”

He said the overall game has altered.“The recession changed the rules,” said Ferrari. “We need to

keep innovation but have to focus on cost. We want to be fast and cost-effective. Speed is becoming more and more important.”

A case in point: Intercos expanded its Ready to Go offer, a line of 80 makeup solutions for regional beauty needs.

Following Intercos’ acquisition of Vitalab, a biotechnology con-cern, Ferrari plans to sell active ingredients to large corporations.

“They’re not interested in [buying] creams,” he said. Ferrari hinted at a development of a serum involving plant stem cells.

While other companies continue to churn out new products, Euroitalia is determined to capitalize on the rollout of its Vanitas by Versus women’s fragrance. Giovanni Sgariboldi, company president, said Euroitalia’s sales grew between 38 percent and 39 percent in 2010.

“Growth last year didn’t come from new products but by new markets growing and improving,” he said.

Sgariboldi is also launching the Moschino Forever men’s scent. But during an interview at company headquarters in Cavenago, Italy, he seemed contemplative on how to protect the new Versus fragrance from the market’s hurly burly.

“We don’t want to burn the Vanitas launch. We need to give it time before launching new products,” said Sgariboldi. “We want to slow down despite great sales last year.”

He underlined his company’s success comes from lines re-maining on the market rather than fl ankers.

Building on the momentum of D-Squared fragrance collec-tions, Roberto Martone, president of ICR-ITF, said the brand will launch a men’s scent in September. Also this year, Martone is set to introduce a men’s and a women’s fragrance under his new Trussardi license.

Martone said sales at ICR-ITF grew about 30 percent last year after registering a loss of approximately 12 percent in 2009.

Gaining ground, as well, is 13-unit niche skin care brand Bakel, of Udine, Italy, which will introduce its fi rst eye cream, Cool Eyes, at Esxence. Bakel came out with Oxyregene — its fi rst cream — two months ago, and it’s now the company’s best seller.

Bakel is carried in 200 doors worldwide and in 2010 generated 450,000 euros, or $597,550 at average exchange.

“I think this year we will close at 1 million euros [or $1.4 mil-lion at current exchange],” said Raffaella Gregoris, Bakel’s co-founder.

— WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM J.W.

Cosmoprof at a Turning PointItaly Keys on Innovation

MILAN — Intercos’ annual trend forecast as always was a three-dimensional, multisensorial highlight melding art, color and cosmetics technology.

Compared with 2010, this year’s view was drenched with vibrant hues. The theme of the show equated innovation with revolution.

It was divided into three aspects: The “individualist,” who wants to express herself through color, as exemplifi ed by exclusive technologies and intense pigments. Perfection and speed are key for the “connectionist.” Here, a patented technology called Intercos Shine offers 24-hour staying power thanks to a long-wearing polymer. Meantime, the “sensationalist” takes time to indulge. That segment of the presentation put a spotlight on high-tech treatments with feel-good textures, such as fresh-to-the-touch products like gels and silky fi nishes.

The star of this year’s show was Prisma Shine, a new Intercos powder technology said to give pure, luminous color. The product leaves such a thin fi lm on skin that — despite the intensity of the pigment — the sum effect is subtle.

“It will blend in with your skin and illuminate it,” said Madina Ferrari, Intercos creative director.

With Prisma Shine, compacts containing three-dimension powder are possible. Prisma Shine was given its trial run in the Madina Milano store and in a collection for Kiko, the popular-priced Italian makeup brand.

“It’s bringing new consumers to the color sphere,” said Ferrari.

Four trendsetting colors cherry-picked for 2012 were “divine blue,” “freestyle orange,” “diabolic red” and “ultra violet.” The hues reverberated with references to artists such as Donald Judd, Alberto Burri and Yayoi Kusama.

— K.O. AND J.W.

INTERCOS RETURNS TO ROOTS

Davines booth, Cosmoprof

{Continued from page 1}

Fate of Flowers color cosmetics by Chinese company Yiwu Yaqi Cosmetics.

Roberto Martone, president of ICR-ITF.

Fabio Franchina, president

of UniPro, the Italian

association of cosmetics

companies.

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00 WWDSTYLE xxxxxxxxx, xxxxxxxx xx, 2011

beauty4 WWDSTYLE Friday, March 25, 2011

Eraclea: Not Standard Skin Care

Elana Drell Szyfer’s Plans for Ahava

Fragrance’s Latest AntidotesNEW YORK — The words “hyaluronic acid” don’t exactly roll off the tongue, nor it is the kind of subject one would expect to draw a crowd to The Standard hotel. But there, on Wednesday night, a group that included model maker Eileen Ford, author Judith Newman, hair stylist Yves Durif and even scien-tists hailing from Budapest gathered for the launch of skin care line Eraclea. Of course, it helped that the line was devel-oped by Dr. Janet Denlinger, wife of Dr. Endre Balazs, father to The Standard’s owner André.

Eraclea features a patented HylaSpongeSystem technology that combines three molecular weights of hyaluronans to penetrate different lev-els of the skin, explained Morgan Hare, president and co-owner of Hylaco LLC, the parent company of Eraclea. Hare has been a marketing executive at BeautiControl, QVC, Avon, Revlon and other companies.

Denlinger, Hare’s business partner and long-time friend, has been researching the function and medical applications of hyaluronan for two decades with her husband, Dr. Endre Balazs, an award-winning scientist working in this field for more than 50 years. Hyaluronan is a key compo-nent of the skin and a lubricating agent in carti-lage, synovial fluid and tissue.

The couple introduced hyaluronic acid to Estée Lauder in the early Eighties, which used it to formulate Night Repair.

“We came up to New York City with our little bottle of hyaluronic acid. We had two appoint-ments, one at Revlon and one at Estee Lauder. Revlon passed on it and Estee Lauder said they had two slots open for later that year. We filled one of them,” said Denlinger, adding that she had suggested they use a dropper for the fin-ished product. They ultimately did.

Now, Denlinger has partnered with Hare for Eraclea, which uses a formula that is designed to hydrate more effectively than hyaluronic acid alone and to facilitate the delivery of antiaging

ingredients, including antioxidants, vitamins, peptides and botanicals, Hare said.

Eraclea is targeted at anyone who washes their face, as it is meant to hydrate skin. It will be sold through an independent sales force to plas-tic surgeons, dermatologists, aestheticians and spas and through a company web site, www.era-cleaskincare.com. Hare projects first-year sales at $500,000.

The launch party in New York got them face time with some its movers and shakers, as well as a party room at The Standard.

Up from Dallas, where the company is based and where Hare lives, Eraclea offers 10 products retailing from $35 to $95 that are all formulated with the HylaSpongeSystem.

Hare packaged them practically, putting the night treatments in black containers to distin-guish them easily and all of the serums in bottles with pumps.

The premium products are 5 Night Perfecting Peel and Pure Hydration Serum/Zinc.

Eraclea also offers 30 ml. formulas includ-ing: Intensive Hydrating Day Cream, Restorative Hydrating Night Cream, Daily Bamboo Exfoliant.

— Holly Haber and andrea nagel

By MOLLY PRIOR

FRAgRANCE SALES inched up in 2010 after a double-digit decline the prior year, but a roaring comeback continues to elude the industry.

And while overall fragrance sales gained 1 percent last year, units sold declined by 10 million, said Pamela Vaile, president of Pamela Vaile Associates, citing data from The NPD group. “The category continues to struggle,” said Vaile during a panel discussion she moderated on Wednesday called “Reset and Recharge,” hosted by The Fragrance Foundation. Vaile, together with four panelists, exchanged ideas for how to help usher in meaningful growth.

The topic of declining fragrance sales in the prestige market — despite a soaring number of launches each year — has vexed beauty executives for years.

“We have been talking about this for five years. It’s time for someone to have the guts to do something,” said Frederic Jacques, vice president of fine fragrances, North America, of Mane USA. “We’re basically converting it into a mass mar-ket, and now we have to deal with the consequences,” which he said were a lack of exclusivity and uniqueness. “It’s time to change the model.”

The retail executives on the panel — namely, Laurie Black, ex-ecutive vice president, general merchandise manager of cosmet-ics for Nordstrom Inc., and Allison Slater, vice president of retail marketing for Sephora — said they both recently took a hard look at the fragrance category and consumers’ expectations.

“She told us that the number one reason she buys a fra-grance is to replenish,” said Black. Fellow panelist Don Loftus, president and chief executive officer of P&g Prestige Products in the U.S., said that finding marks an opportunity to “rebuild the classics.” At present, he noted, space and vi-suals tend to go to the new launch of the week.

Nordstrom’s survey also indicated that the second reason a shopper buys fragrance is that she received a free sample, liked it and came back to purchase a full-size bottle. The discovery prompted Nordstrom to restructure its selling process on the floor. Now, after a shopper smells a scented strip, she is handed a sample. “We don’t wait until the point of sale,” said Black.

Sephora has successfully put its spin on sampling with its Sephora Favorites program, which groups together generous-ly sized samples from various brands. The Deluxe Fragrance Sampler For Her, billed as a $100 value, includes 10 scent samples and sells for $50. It also includes a coupon to receive a full-size version. “It’s been very successful,” said Slater. “This allows [customers] to get the fragrance they want” dur-ing the holiday gift-giving season. She added that, several years ago, Sephora noticed that customers were not buying as many full-size fragrances. With that insight in mind, it worked with vendors to create smaller roller ball scents that retail for around $15 to $20. “They allow clients to think about fra-grance as an accessory,” said Slater.

As with most discussions on fragrance, talk turned to the role of celebrities. “Celebrity is important to build a brand. It does give an instant awareness and fan base,” said Vaile. Jacques agreed, adding, “There are some relevant and meaningful celebrity scents. It’s all a question of meaning and relevance to the market. Celebrity is not this issue if [the scent is] properly done.”

Driving that point home, trend forecaster Judy galloway, managing partner of g-group Market Research, predicted during her presentation that the upcoming Lady gaga launch will be an “earthquake.”

By JULIE NAUgHTON

WITH A NEW chief executive officer title under her belt, Elana Drell Szyfer is ready to write a new chapter for Ahava North America.

Drell Szyfer, who was first named Ahava’s North American general manager a few months ago and has just added the ceo title, is deter-mined to rev up the Israeli brand’s size in this market with a rebranding and repackaging effort and a slew of reformulated products sans para-bens. All are rolling out now.

Drell Szyfer noted that Yacov Ellis, Ahava’s global ceo, is prioritizing North America for growth in 2011 and beyond, as it is the brand’s largest market outside Israel. The brand is sold

in about 30 countries globally. In the U.S., retailers include Nordstrom, Lord

& Taylor, Beauty 360, Fred Segal and Ulta. Drell Szyfer noted that she hopes to grow the business 20 percent this year. While she refused to discuss num-bers, industry sources estimated that the current size of Ahava’s North American business is about $30 million at retail.

“We’re refocusing on the DNA of the brand: Dead Sea minerals,” said Drell Szyfer, noting that she has reduced the size of the line and repackaged everything to appear more cohesive as a brand. “This is a brand that is rooted in being natural, but we really haven’t communicated that before — now we are. We’ve combined the brand’s top four product lines into one cohesive collection, and are using the tag line ‘My Skin Reborn’ on all marketing communications at point of sale. The packaging is now more nature-inspired, with natural colors and elements from the Dead Sea region, such as water, mud, salt and plants.”

As well, a greater emphasis will be placed on fa-cial skin care, said Drell Szyfer. “Our body business is extremely strong, but one of our strategic priori-ties is to increase the performance of our face prod-ucts, and our upcoming launches will reflect this priority, as will our messaging,” Drell Szyfer noted. Facial skin care packaging is now designed to call out specific skin care concerns and benefits, and Ahava is emphasizing sampling and social media as means of communicating the brand’s updates. A re-vamped e-commerce site is launching now, as well.

New formulations not only eschew parabens, but also SLS/SLES, petroleum, harsh synthetics and genetically modified organisms. Not every product has been reformulated, said Drell Szyfer; only the ones which offered “opportunities for en-hanced performance.”

IN A BID to vastly grow its retail distribution business, Temptu has named Carey grange as president of the New York-based company.

Temptu, the maker of airbrush makeup and tools, oper-ates both Temptu Pro, the professional division dedicated to makeup artists — which is how the company began in 1981 — and Temptu Consumer, which was created in 2009 and ex-panded the firm’s reach to everyday consumers with distribu-tion partnerships with Sephora and QVC.

grange will report to Temptu chief executive offi-cer Michael Benjamin. She will work with Benjamin and Samantha Mandor, chief operating officer, as well as Temptu owners to develop multichannel distribution strategies and marketing initiatives, and grow global sales.

grange comes from Murad, where she most recently served as executive vice president, Direct to Consumer, over-seeing TV, online, catalogue and print media. grange began her career at guthy-Renker, managing Proactiv Solution, Principal Secret and Victoria Jackson Cosmetics.

— a.n.

Grange Tapped By Temptu New Ahava packaging.

Dr. Janet Denlinger, Dr. Endre Balazs, Morgan Hare and André Balazs.

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