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A VIKING A-FRAME STYLE PAVILIONby Mistress Kathryn of Iveragh (mka M. "Kathryn" Ballard)

This article was originally published in The Compleat Anachronist #26, and is reprinted with theauthor's gracious permission. To inquire about this article, email the author at kballar@unm.edu .

During the ninth and tenth centuries, a Viking camp for a long stay on shore included items such as wooden tubs,various tools and implements, a cauldron and other portable cooking equipment, plates, trays, and oil lamps. TheVikings also erected elaborate tents. I have constructed two A-frame style pavilions over the years and haveadopted a study, creatively anachronistic, resemblance to the Viking tent for use in the SCA. Since many haveasked me how this pavilion is constructed, I will try here to explain and illustrate as best I can my adaptation.

Cost: $100 -$150, depending mostly on cloth usedSize: Finished floor = 8' x 10', center height = 7'Materials:

Four 1" x 8" x 10' boardsThree 3/4" x 10' conduit pipeSix 3/4" pipe capsFour 8" to 10" metal stakes

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Several eyeletsTwo small eyelet screwsTwo 30' pieces of ropePaintVelcro, lacing, or zipperFabric:

20 yards of 30" wide heavy cloth ---4 stripeOR 15 yards of 40" -wide heavy cloth--3 stripeOR 10 yards of 60"-wide heavy cloth--2 stripeAND 6 more yards fabric for the ends

THE BOARDS--Do this step with each board

A) At one end, we'll need to cut it so that there is an angle and notch as inFigure 1. Cut along the dotted line.B) Measure 7-1/2' from the notch and drill a 1" hole at the center of that point.The boards can now be used --this end looks similar to Figure 2. If you wouldlike to add some decoration, you must be careful to have either a symmetrical(Figure 3) pattern or a left-and-right opposing designs.C) Paint the boards as you desire. If you want to add any decoration, be sureto be watchful of the two right and two lefts.

THE PIPES--Choose one of the pipes to serve asthe center ridge pole. You will need to set theeyelet screws 2-1/2" from both ends of the pipe.

THE FABRIC--(Example: 60" material) Over thetop: Measure two lengths of 5 yards plus 6". Sewthese together lengthwise using a double seamfor strength. Fold under 1/2" on both ends. Then

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fold under 2-1/2" and sew down to form casing.

BACK PANEL--Measure two right trianglesslightly larger (1/2") than the dimensions, as in Figure 6. Sew together along side"a". Hem edge "c". Sew the triangles onto the main piece along one edge 'b". Donot sew over casings and at the center--do not sew all the way to the top of thetriangle.--leave about 2" on both sides at the center. The best way is to measurefrom the bottoms up and pin--adjust to center before sewing (see Figure 5). Foldunder raw edges at the casing end and the top two inches and sew to avoidraveling.

FRONT PANELS--Measure two panels 1/2" larger than the dimensions in Figure 4(sic) except make side "a" 1-1/2" wider. (Mira's note: Make sure that you haveenough fabric for a good overlapping so your door will close completely) Hem eachside "c". Fold under side "a" 1/2", then fold under 1" more and sew down. Measurenad secure pieces of velcro at equal distances apart down each side "a" (Figure6). Remember that in order to close velcro, place one side of a dot on the rigth sideof the material and the matching piece on the wrong side of the material. Sew thesides "b" onto the main piece of material, similarly to the back panel, and hem anyraw edges that are left.

At the center of the top point of the main piece of material, place an eyelet largeenough for the eyelet screw to screw into but not through, 1/2" from the edge of thematerial. When you then attach the material to the poles, the material will not shifton the top ridge pole.

ATTACHING MATERIAL TOPOLES--TOP: Slide the top ridgepole through the space left at thecenter top of the front and back

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triangle panels. Screw the eyeletscrew through the eyelet in thematerial into the hole in the pole

(see Figure 7).

Bottoms: Slide the poles through the casings. Place a pipe cap oneach end.

THE ROPES--Securely tie the rope in the middle to the top ridgepole to the outside of the eyelet screw (the pole end side, not thematerial side). Place the ends of the material toward the inside ofthe material through the hole left at the top of the triangle.

We are now ready to set up the pavilion. Hopefully, by following these stps, you will have your pavilion standing verysecurely. The cross tension in the setup of the ropes makes it very stable when staked down. It will be wobbly untilthen, so at least two people are needed to set it up--one to hold it steady while the other puts in the stakes.

1) Lay the boards and material with poles out, as in Figure 8.2) Place the center pole through the holes in the tops of a pair ofboards, making sure that the notch is down on all boards. Place a pipecap on each end of the center pole (see Figure 9).3) With a person on each end of the center pole, lift the pavilion up.The bottom side poles are then slipped into the notches. At the back,move the legs out until the material triangle is tight. In the front, makesure that the door closes without stress (it should be 8' wide). At thispoint the pavilion is unstable and will need to have at least one personkeeping it upright and straight (see Figure 10)4) Inside the pavilion, pass the ropes from the top front outside to eachof the back bottom corners. Place a stake at each corner on theoutside, just behind the board and to the outside of the pole. Secure

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the ropes to the stakes. Tighten the ropes as much aspossible,keeping the tent upright and straight (see Figure 11)

The tent can also be erected without stakes, for indoor sites, or when on hard ground, by tying the ropes directly tothe pipes at the corners. It is less stable, but stable enough not to fall down easily.

This is just the basic design, and decorative board cutting at the top can be easily made with just a little adjustmentof the materials needed.

NOTE: I've tried PVC pipe. It will break with heavy winds, and lighterweight conduit tents to bend with the wind andthe weight of the cloth. It's even better if a 1" pipe is used for the top center pole when heavy material is used.

NOTE: I've used just heavy cotton material on both tents I've constructed and have never gotten wet inside. The mostwas a light mist during heavy rain. The angle seems to shed water well.

NOTE: A more period way would be to substitute wood poles and secure with pegs, as suggesting by the drawingsin Algren, Bertil, et al. The Viking, Crescent Books.

Mira's comments--For more information on A-Frames, check out the following links:

A-FRAME/NORSE TENTS--From my pavilion notes pageVIKING TENTS--From TentsmithsA-FRAME AND WEDGE TENTS--Photo gallery

Email Mira Silverlock here

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