Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile FinishingTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile FinishingTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile FinishingTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile Finishingg g g g g gTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile FinishingTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile FinishingTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile FinishingTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile Finishingg g g g g gTextile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing   Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing  Textile Finishing 

Lecture 1Lecture 1Introduction to Textile FinishingIntroduction to Textile Finishing

Zeeshan KhatriBE Textile PGD Textile PE CText ATI (UK) CCol ASDC (UK)

©2009

Today’s Presentation

2

Today s PresentationIntroduction

Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing

Importance

The challenge and charm

Mechanical Finishing processes

Importance

Chemical Finishing processes

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

Discussion

Zeeshan Khatri © 2009

3

IntroductionFi i hi i th l t f t i t i th d ti f

Zeesh

an K

hat

• Finishing is the last manufacturing step in the production oftextile fabrics

• an integral part of wet processing• the operation where the final fabric properties are developed

tri © 20

09

• the operation where the final fabric properties are developed• improving the appearance or usefulness of a fabric after it leaves

the loom or knitting machine can be considered a finishing step.• the last chance to provide the properties that customers will p p p

value.

• Finish can be either chemicals that change thegfabric's aesthetic and/or physical properties or changesin texture or surface characteristics brought about byphysically manipulating the fabric with mechanicaldevices It can also be a combination of the two

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

devices. It can also be a combination of the two.

4

Categories

Zeesh

an K

hat

FINSHING

tri © 20

09

Mechanical (Dry) Chemical (Wet)

• Finishing is commonly divided into two categories, Chemical and Mechanical In chemical finishing water is used as the

Mechanical (Dry) Chemical (Wet)

and Mechanical. In chemical finishing, water is used as the medium for applying the chemicals. Heat is used to drive off the water and to activate the chemicals. Mechanical finishing is considered a dry operation even though moisture and chemicals

f d d f ll h f b i h i lare often needed to successfully process the fabric. Mechanical devices are used in both categories - the major distinction between the two is what caused the desired fabric change, the chemical or the machine?

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

chemical or the machine?

5

Today’s concern!T d ' fi i h d l ith i t f

Zeesh

an K

hat

• Today's finisher deals with many points of concerns since he is responsible for the ultimate quality of the fabric.

• with chemistry i e reactions with the fabric

tri © 20

09

• with chemistry, i.e. reactions with the fabric, • safe handling of bulk quantities of• hazardous chemicals,• worker safety and environmental issues involving air • worker safety and environmental issues involving air

and water discharges. • the machines used to process the fabric and controlling

them to produce first quality goods them to produce first quality goods. • economic factors, i.e. chemical and process costs, output.• certification of quality and timely delivery of products to

customers

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

customers.

Wet and dry or chemical and

6

Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing

Zeesh

an K

hat

• Chemical finishing or ‘wet finishing’ involves the addition of chemicals to textiles to achieve a desired res lt

tri © 20

09

desired result. • Physical properties such as dimensional stability

and chemical properties such as flame and chemical properties such as flame retardancy can both be improved with chemical finishing. g

• Typically, the appearance of the textile is unchanged after chemical finishing

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

Wet and dry or chemical and

7

Wet and dry or chemical and mechanical finishing

h i l fi i hi ‘d fi i hi ’

Zeesh

an K

hat

• Mechanical finishing or ‘dry finishing’ usesmainly physical (especially mechanical) means tochange fabric properties and usually alters the fabric

tri © 20

09

g p p yappearance as well.

• It also encompasses thermal processes such as heatsetting (thermal finishing)setting (thermal finishing).

• Typical mechanical finishes include calendering,emerising, compressive shrinkage, raising, brushing

d h i i d i ll f land shearing or cropping, and especially for woolfabrics milling, pressing and setting with crabbingand decatering

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

g

8

The challenge and charmTh f l ti f h i l fi i h i

Zeesh

an K

hat

The proper formulation of chemical finishes requires consideration of several important factors:

1 Th t f t til b i t t d (fib d

tri © 20

09

1. The type of textile being treated (fibre and construction);

2. The performance requirements of the finish (extent of effect and durability); of effect and durability);

3. The cost to benefit ratio; 4. Restrictions imposed on the process by availability

of machinery procedure requirements environmental of machinery, procedure requirements, environmental considerations;

5. Compatibility of different formula components as well as the interaction of the finishing effects.

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

well as the interaction of the finishing effects.

To bring all these parameters to an acceptable

9

To bring all these parameters to an acceptable compromise

Zeesh

an K

hat

is not easy!

tri © 20

09

Mostly one bath application for economic reasons

hi i f h h d h ll fThis is often the hardest challenge of chemical finishing!

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

All components of the finish bath must be

10

All components of the finish bath must be:• Compatible• Avoid precipitations of anionic with cationic

Zeesh

an K

hat• Avoid precipitations of anionic with cationic

products• The emulsion stability of different products may

tri © 20

09

The emulsion stability of different products may be reduced by product interactions.

More difficult is often the second hurdle, the compatibility of the primary and secondaryeffects of the different types of finishes that are being combined:

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

11

Some effects are similar or assist each other for example Zeesh

an K

hat

Some effects are similar or assist each other, for example silicone elastomers cause water repellency, softeners

bring about antistatic effects and antistatic finishes can be softening.

tri © 20

09

Some effects are obviously contradictory for example Some effects are obviously contradictory, for example hydrophobic finishes and hydrophilic antistatic finishes, or stiffening and elastomeric finishes, or stiffening and

softening finishes.

Other types of finishes typically reduce the main effect of a Other types of finishes typically reduce the main effect of a finish type, for example the flame retardant effect is

decreased by nearly all other types of chemical finishes as they add flammable components to the fabric.

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

y p

Th th fi i h i l d h th bi d

12

Thus the finisher is glad when the combinedproducts do not interfere, neither in thefinishing bath nor on the fabric, with all

Zeesh

an K

hat

their different effects, but this usually is theexception rather than the rule.

tri © 20

09

• This discussion of the interaction of the primaryeffects of the combined products can be expanded toth i d ff t th d i d d ththeir secondary effects, the desired and theundesired ones.

• Obviously this task quickly approaches confusion. Itis not surprising that successful chemical finishing issometimes thought of as being nearly magical

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

sometimes thought of as being nearly magical.

13Z

eeshan

Kh

at

Thus it is not surprising that an expert system wasdeveloped (TEXPERTO from Clariant)

tri © 20

09The recipe formulation is not only a challenge but also

a charming task. For those finishers who have thea charming task. For those finishers who have theknowledge and some experience, chemical finishingis an inspiring and fascinating job, where theinteraction of chemical understanding technicalinteraction of chemical understanding, technicalgrasp, textile feeling and an instinct for markettrends leads to considerable success and increased

l (b h i h h f h fi i h d f b i d ivalue (both in the worth of the finished fabric and inthe esteem of the finish designer).

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

14

Importance of Chemical finishing

Zeesh

an K

hat

• Chemical finishing has always been an important component of textile processing, but in recent ears the trend to ‘high tech’ prod cts

tri © 20

09

in recent years the trend to ‘high tech’ products has increased the interest and use of chemical finishes finishes.

• As the use of high performance textiles has grown, the need for chemical finishes to provide g , pthe fabric properties required in these special applications has grown accordingly.

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

15

• The amount of textile chemical auxiliaries sold and used globally in one year is estimated to be

Zeesh

an K

hatand used globally in one year is estimated to be

about one-tenth of the world’s fibre production.

tri © 20

09

• With fibre production currently at 60 million b 6 illi f h i l tonnes, about 6 million tonnes of chemical

auxiliaries are consumed.

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

Distribution of textile auxiliaries by

16

Distribution of textile auxiliaries by market share

Zeesh

an K

hattri ©

200

9

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

Importance of the finishing product groups in order

17Z

eeshan

Kh

at

Softeners are clearly the most important tri ©

200

9

most important individual product

group.

In terms of value, the repellent group is the

leader with the highest ratio of cost per amount ratio of cost per amount.

This reflects the relatively high cost of the

fluorochemicalsubgroup of repellents.

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

Distribution of finishing product groups by amount and value

18

Distribution of finishing product groups by amount and valueZeesh

an K

hattri ©

200

9

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology

19

Questions

Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and Technology Department of Textile EngineeringMehran University of Engineering and TechnologyZeeshan Khatri © 2009