Smoothing & StraighteningSERVICES

Long-lasting styling solutions

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L’Oréal Professionnel offers a range of long-lasting smoothing and straightening services which alter the structure of the hair to achieve a particular style.

These services not only offer your clients long-lasting style results, but also the most innovative technologies which provide optimum care and condition for the hair so that the final result is glossy, silky and beautifully smooth or straight.

This technical guide is designed to provide you with all the information to create long-lasting smooth and straight hair for your clients.

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DiagnosticDuring the consultation with your client it is important to ask the right questions. The hair type of the client and the effect they are looking for will determine what smoothing or straightening service you will use for their hair. Use this diagnostic tool to help you find the right product for your client’s needs.

What result does the client want to achieve?

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Straight, with natural movement

Less volume and looser curls

X-TENSO® MOISTURIST™

Satin Smoothing Technique

Long-lasting naturally smooth effect

X-TENSO® MOISTURIST™

Curl Calming Technique

De-volumises tight curls into softer waves

X-TENSO® CERA THERMIC

Long-lasting perfectly straight result

Ultra Straight

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X-Tenso® Cera ThermicThe definitive long-lasting straightening service for beautifully silky straight hair.

Transforms even the most unruly hair

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X-T

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Science & Technology

Reduction PhaseAt the time of reduction, the smoothing cream separates the disulphide bonds.

Cera thermic Straightening CreamsWith patented Ceramide for enhanced straightening of the hair.

Pre-Treatment ProtectionCera thermic InitialiserThe pre-treatment which contains Ionène G provides protection to the hair during the straightening operation.

Straightening PhaseDuring this phase, the Ceramide in the straightening cream penetrates the hair and strengthens the realignment.

Fixing Phase During neutralisation, disulphide bonds reform and the hair is fixed into the new shape.

The StepsSTEP 1: DIAGNOSIS

• Examine the scalp and check the skin is free of damage or flakiness • Check the quality of the hair from roots to ends, to make sure it is in good

condition before carrying out this service – refer to the table below• Consult the client on the past history of their hair and use the table below to

choose the appropriate cream for their hair type • If in any doubt, carry out a test meche, following the directions on the next

page. If the hair is damaged or broken after the test, do not continue with the application

• There are 2 cream strengths:

Natural cream For natural and natural resistant hair

Sensitised cream For sensitised hair including coloured hair in good condition

HAIR TYPECREAM SELECTION

X-Tenso® Cera thermic Natural

X-Tenso® Cera thermic Sensitised

Natural YES YES

Natural resistant YES YES

Sensitised hair or coloured hair in good condition NO YES

Previously straightened hair TEST MECHE TEST MECHE

Pre-lightened hair NO NO

Highlighted with Hi Lift or Pre-Lightener NO NO

Permed/Texturised hair NO YES

Hair treated with henna or metallic salts NO NO

Hair relaxed with a Hydroxide product NO NO

Cera thermic Fixing LotionContains cationic polymers to smooth and fix the hair in its final position.

Cera thermic Finaliser (Conditioner)With Ceramide and Candellila wax. Softens and helps detangle for silky smooth hair.

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How to carry out a test meche• Isolate a small 2cm x 2cm section

• Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Straightening Cream suitable for the hair type to the section. Do not cover. Allow to develop for the recommended development time

• rinse thoroughly and blast dry to 80%

• Straighten with irons pre-heated to 180°C

• Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Fixing Lotion for 5 minutes. Reapply for a further 5 minutes

• rinse thoroughly for 3 minutes

• Check results. If the hair is damaged or broken after the test, do not continue with the application

NB: Test meche can be carried out before or on the day of the client’s appointment.

See Pages 32-35 for all Health and Safety Instructions.

STEP 2: PREPARATION

• Shampoo using L’Oréal Professionnel Optimiseur Pré-Forme shampoo and towel-dry the hair

• Apply the complete dose of X-Tenso® Cera thermic Initialiser evenly through all sections of the hair

STEP 3: APPLICATION

Always wear suitable gloves during mixing, application and removal of the product from the hair.

• Place approximately half a tube of your chosen Straightening Cream into a non-metallic bowl

• Divide the hair into 4 sections

• Starting at the nape area, apply the X-Tenso® Cera thermic Straightening Cream with a brush 1cm away from the scalp, meche by meche, to the mid-lengths and ends of the hair

• Apply rapidly, but with care. repeat process on other meches

• Do not allow the product to touch the scalp

• Using your fingers, smooth the hair meche by meche to ensure the hair remains straight

• In total, the application should take no longer than 5 minutes

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STEP 4: DEVELOPMENT

• Develop at room temperature: Natural cream: 10 to 30 minutes Sensitised cream: 5 to 20 minutes

• To check required straightening, test regularly throughout development time using the knot test. (see below)

• rinse thoroughly for 5 minutes. Then using a dryer, blast dry until hair is 80% dry

KNOT TEST

CHECK THE HAIr rEGULArLY DUrING THE DEVELOPMENT TIME USING THE KNOT TEST AS A GUIDE.

1. Isolate a meche of hair about 1mm thick (6 to 10 hairs) and test elasticity every 5 minutes.

3. Gently tightenthe knot. Hold knot between 2 hands and try to undo it by pushing on the 2 ends of the meche.

2. Make a knotwith the meche of hair in the most sensitised area.

4. If the knot loosens, leave the straightening cream on longer and redo the test after 5 minutes. If the

knot holds firm, development is over and the hair is straightened enough. Undo the knot. Rinse thoroughly (for approx 5 minutes) to eliminate all traces of cream. With a dryer, blast dry the hair until 80% dry.

STEP 5: APPLYING STRAIGHTENING IRONS

• Pre-heat the straightening irons to 180°C

• Starting at the nape, isolate one fine meche of hair. As a guide you should be able to see through the meche

• Beginning 1cm from the roots, smooth the hair with the straightening irons, allowing them to slowly glide along the length of the hair to the very ends in one continuous movement

• repeat 2 times on each meche until all of the hair is straight and smooth

• Do not rinse

NB: To obtain the optimum result it is very important to take very fine sections of hair when applying the straightening irons.

STEP 6: APPLYING NEUTRALISER

• Apply 80ml of X-Tenso® Cera thermic Fixing Lotion section by section to dry hair. Leave for 5 minutes

• reapply a further 40ml of Fixing Lotion to the hair and leave for 5 minutes

STEP 7: APPLYING FINALISER

• rinse for 3 minutes, then gently towel-dry and apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Finaliser tube to the whole head. Leave for 3 minutes, then rinse

• Style without using excessive heat or tension to the hair

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1. Previously straightened hair? Remember that X-Tenso® Cera thermic can be used on hair that has already been straightened, providing the technology of the previous process was a thio product e.g. X-Tenso® Cera thermic or X-Tenso® MoisturistTM. DO NOT make an application to hair previously treated with an alkaline product.

If you are unsure carry out a test meche. If you are applying X-Tenso® Cera thermic to hair previously treated with a thio product (X-Tenso® Cera thermic / X-Tenso® MoisturistTM) remember to choose the cream for sensitised hair.

2. Highlighted hair? If the highlights are concentrated in one area, isolate the area using Easi Meche Ultra or high quality foils (use exclusively ref Soft Alloy 8079, 20µm or Soft Alloy 1200 18μm), then apply the X-Tenso® Cera thermic service. If the highlights are spread over the entire head of hair, it is not advisable to make an application.

3. How often to renew the service? The ultimate straightening effect on the hair is permanent. You can carry out a regrowth application when there is a minimum 7-8cm of new hair growth. On average, the service is renewed every 6-8 months.

4. Reapply? You can reapply X-Tenso® Cera thermic if already used, if the previously treated lengths need to be straightened again. Use the chosen cream from the client’s consultation on the regrowth and the Sensitised Cream on the already treated lengths, or use the same strength cream on regrowth and draw it out onto the lengths, but with a reduced development time. Perform the knot test and adjust the development time for each case.

5. Remember the meche test Isolate a small 2cm x 2cm section with Easi Meche Ultra or high quality foils. Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Straightening Cream suitable for the hair type to the section (do not cover). Allow to develop. Rinse thoroughly and blast dry to 80%. Straighten with irons pre-heated to 180°C. Apply X-Tenso® Cera thermic Fixing Lotion for 5 minutes. Reapply for 5 minutes then rinse thoroughly for 3 minutes and check results (see page 22).

6. The importance of the knot test The knot test will give you a guide as to the degree of elasticity remaining in the hair. You are aiming to relax the natural spring of the hair – if the knot continues to open the hair is not fully processed (see page 24).

7. Hair sensitivity If a client has uneven degrees of sensitivity throughout their hair, choose the X-Tenso® Cera thermic Straightening Cream for sensitised hair and begin your application in the least sensitised area, which is often on the underneath of the hair. Always carry out the knot test in the most sensitised area of the hair.

8. Development times There is not an exact development time because curly, rebellious hair by its nature has varying degrees of elasticity; no one head of hair is the same. The variable development time will allow you to achieve optimum results for all clients.

If you have any other questions, please contact the L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on: 0800 0304 034or for rOI: 1800 535 616

Tips

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Aftercare andHealth & Safety

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As part of the X-Tenso® MoisturistTM and X-Tenso® Cera thermic service, suggest a home care programme for the client, recommending série expert, tecni.art and texture expert products which have been designed to smooth and nourish texturised hair.

Aftercare

PROduCT RECOMMENdATIONS

hairmix supreme smooth cream• Smoothing cream for

thirsty and rebellious hair

• Nutrition, shine and heat protection with a smoothing effect

hairmix sublime shine serum• Shine serum for dry hair• Nourishes and tames

thirsty, frizzy hair, leaving it shiny and manageable

liss control cream• Smoothing gel cream• A 24-hour frizz tamer,

this soft cream controls and smoothes frizzy, rebellious hair, with a natural shine

liss control + serum• Intense control

smoothing serum• Gives 24-hour anti-frizz

protection, softness and natural shine to any style

PROduCT RECOMMENdATIONS

liss ultime shampoo• Smoothing shampoo for

unmanageable hair

liss ultime masque• Smoothing masque for

unmanageable hair

liss ultime serum• Shine perfecting serum

liss ultime smoothing night treatment • Smoothing night

treatment for unmanageable hair

PROduCT RECOMMENdATIONS

smooth essence• Flawlessly featherweight

smoothing cream with anti-humidity protection. Benefit: Smoothes and controls fine hair

smooth velours• Supreme blow-dry milk

with heat protection.Benefit: Leaves hair soft, supple and polished

smooth ultime• Dream cream for taming

thick, rebellious hair.Benefit: Reduces volume and gives long-lasting anti-humidity protection

fine

hair

med

ium

hai

rth

ick

hair

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Health & SafetyFollow these Health & Safety instructions when carrying out an X-Tenso® Cera thermic or X-Tenso® MoisturistTM service.

• Avoid contact of products with the skin or eyes. rinse immediately with water if the product comes into contact with them

• Follow directions carefully

• Do not apply if the scalp is irritated, or if your client has previously experienced sensitivity/an allergic reaction to this type of product

• Wear suitable gloves during mixing, application and removal of the product from the hair

• Keep out of the reach of children

• For professional use only

If you have any other questions, please contact the L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on: 0800 0304 034or for rOI: 1800 535 616

X-Tenso® Cera thermic

• Do not apply to very sensitised hair, pre-lightened hair or hair coloured using 30 volume and above

• Do not apply the product to hair straightened with an alkaline or hydroxide straightener

• Do not use X-Tenso® Cera thermic on hair that has been previously relaxed/straightened with a relaxing cream containing SODIUM HYDrOXIDE (‘lye’)

• Do not use on hair relaxed with a product (‘non-lye’) but containing either POTASSIUM HYDrOXIDE (potash), or LITHIUM HYDrOXIDE (lithine), or GUANIDINE CArBONATE

X-Tenso® MoisturistTM

• Do not apply to very sensitised hair, pre-lightened hair, hair with more than 20% highlights or hair coloured using 30 volume and above

• Do not use on the same day as a permanent oxidation process. However, an application of Symbio, Richesse de Diacolor or Diacolor Gelée can be made with reduced development time of 5 minutes

• Do not use X-Tenso® MoisturistTM on hair that has been previously relaxed/straightened with a relaxing cream containing SODIUM HYDrOXIDE (‘lye’)

• Do not use on hair relaxed with a product (‘non-lye’) containing either POTASSIUM HYDrOXIDE (potash), or LITHIUM HYDrOXIDE (lithine), or GUANIDINE CArBONATE

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Colour Service after X-Tenso® MoisturistTM

When colouring after an X-Tenso® MoisturistTM service using Symbio, Diacolor Gelée or Richesse de Diacolor follow the guidelines below:

At L’Oréal Professionnel, our aim is to work in partnership with you to create beautiful hair, whilst ensuring at all times the absolute safety of you, your staff and all your clients. We invest tirelessly in product development to create new innovative products with safety always in mind. These products, when used at all times according to the safety instructions, alongside recommended best practice in your salon, will help ensure not only best results, but the safest environment for everyone.

L’Oréal Professionnel has designed a protocol which will enable you to manage your clients’ colour experience and determine the need to carry out a skin allergy test.

The protocol follows a 3-step consultation with your colour client, to accompany the application of a L’Oréal Professionnel coloration:

• Step 1: Professional Consultation• Step 2: How to carry out a skin allergy test• Step 3: How to carry out a colour application

Refer to your health and safety booklet for more information.

Please note: If you do not follow the 3-step professional safety consultation then the basic skin allergy test rules still apply. A SKIN ALLERGY TEST must be done 48 hours before each application.

Hair colorants can cause an allergic reaction, which in certain rare cases may be severe for you and your client. It is therefore essential to follow these precautions:

• Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product.

• DO NOT USE a hair colorant product if: Your client has previously experienced a reaction to hair colorants. Your client has a sensitive, itchy or damaged scalp.

• Check for tattoos and permanent make-up

Black Henna Tattoos: Ask your client if he/she has ever had, even once, a black henna tattoo as he/she may have become allergic without realising it. Do not use this product unless you have done the skin allergy test 48 hours before use.

• If your client has had an allergic reaction to any type of skin tattoo including henna or permanent make-up, the risk of allergy may be greater

How to carry out a skin allergy test:Remove any earrings. Using a cotton bud, apply a little of the unmixed colorant product you intend to use behind the ear. Apply sufficient product to cover 1cm2. Re-apply 2 or 3 times allowing it to dry between each application. Leave for 48 hours without washing, covering or touching.

If during the course of this period you or your client notice any abnormal reaction such as intense itching, redness or swelling in or around the test area DO NOT APPLY THE COLORANT. Recommend that your client seeks medical advice before any further colour applications are made.

Furthermore, when using technical products and in cases of prolonged exposure to water:

• Wear suitable disposable gloves during the preparation, application and rinsing of the product

• Protect and care for dry sensitive hands with L’Oréal Professionnel prosensitive cream

After application:For technical products, discard any left-over mixtures immediately. They cannot be used again.

For safe storage and disposal of waste see the COSHH booklet and L’Oréal Professionnel product guide. For a copy, call Customer Services on 0845 6000 122 or contact the Hairdressing & Beauty Suppliers Association on 01707 649499.

For further information about L’Oréal Professionnel’s Smoothing and Straightening Services please contact The L’Oréal Professionnel Salon Advice line on:

UK: 0800 0304 034rOI: 1800 535 616