yale university press, london - fashion catalogue 09/10
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8/14/2019 Yale University Press, London - Fashion Catalogue 09/10
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8/14/2019 Yale University Press, London - Fashion Catalogue 09/10
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From its origins in the eighteenth-century literature of terror to its contemporary
manifestations in vampire fiction, cinema and art, the gothic has embraced thepowers of horror and the erotic macabre. ‘Gothic’ is an epithet with a strange
history—evoking images of death, destruction and decay. Ironically, its negative
connotations have made the gothic an ideal symbol of rebellion for a wide range
of cultural outsiders. Popularly associated with black-clad teenagers and rock
musicians, gothic fashion encompasses not only subcultural styles (from old-
school goth to cyber-goth and beyond) but also high fashion by such designers as
Alexander McQueen, John Galliano of Christian Dior, Rick Owens, OlivierTheyskens and Yohji Yamamoto. As the text and lavish illustrations in this book
suggest, gothic fashion has deep cultural roots that give it an enduring potency.
Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology
From Wonder Woman’s satin stars and golden bracelets to Batman’s brooding cape
and mask, the style of superheroes’ dress has influenced both street wear and high
fashion. This richly illustrated book explores how radical couture, avant-garde
sportswear and state-of-the-art military garments—as seen through the lens of the
superhero—can be metaphors for sex, power and politics. Beginning with the
origins of the superhero costume, this volume looks at how designers have been
influenced by iconographic components such as the cape, mask, boots and unitard.
Costumes, such as those worn by Batman and Catwoman, are examined as
reflections of sexual and physical prowess, while others, most notably those of
Superman and Captain America, are analysed as political propaganda.
Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
fashionnow
2008 192pp. 100 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13694-4 £19.99*
Dark Glamour
Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park
Superheroes
Fashion and Fantasy Andrew Bolton
With an essay by Michael Chabon
2008 160pp. 300 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13670-8 £30.00*
Gothic
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fashionnow
AngloMania Tradition and Transgression
in British Fashion
Andrew Bolton With an essay by Ian Buruma
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
2007 150pp. 81 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11785-1 £18.50*
Fashion at the Edge Spectacle, Modernity
and Deathliness
Caroline Evans
2007 334pp. 100 b/ w + 100 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-12467-5 £19.99*
Extreme Beauty The Body Transformed
Harold Koda
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
2004 192pp. 228 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10312-0 £19.95*
Wild Fashion Untamed
Andrew Bolton
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
2004 180pp. 32 b/w + 65 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10638-1 £14.99*
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fashiondesigners
While the classically inspired ‘Grecian’ gown designed by Madame Alix Grès is
widely recognised and admired, little else of the brilliant couturier’s life or work
has received close attention. This book, by far the most detailed study yet
published on this influential fashion designer, carefully analyses Madame Grès’
innovative construction techniques and connects her designs to the art styles and
movements that inspired and informed her aesthetic.
“Mears brings to her subject a genuine appreciation for the engineering that
formed the basis of Grès’s innovation and for her tenacious, obsessive pursuit of
custom techniques that were inherently uncommercial, severely curtailing theexpansion of her business empire.”
—Holly Brubach, New York Times, Style Magazine
In the annals of fashion history, French couturier Paul Poiret is known for
liberating women from corsets and introducing pantaloons for women. However,
it is Poiret’s innovations in the cut and construction of clothing, made all the
more remarkable by the fact that he could not sew, that secures his legacy. This
essential book is the first to explore Poiret’s radical modernity from a number of
perspectives. Essays by renowned scholars describe the historical context of his
work; its relation to the dominant artistic discourses of the early twentieth
century; his muse, Denise Poiret, and her influence on his work; and his role in
the paradigmatic shift to a new ideal of feminine beauty.
“destined to become a collectors item”—Richard Edmonds, Birmingham Post
Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Madame Grès Sphinx of Fashion
Patricia Mears
2008 184pp. 90 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13692-0 £35.00*
Poiret
Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton With an introduction by N ancy J. Troy
Contributions by Caroline Evans, Heather
Hess, Jared Goss and Caroline Milbank
2007 224pp. 195 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12029-5 £29.99*
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Chanel Harold Koda
and Andrew Bolton With contributions from
Karl Lagerfeld
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
2005 216pp. 166 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10713-5 £25.00*
Balenciaga and His Legacy Haute Couture from the
Texas Fashion Collection
Myra Walker
Published in association with
The Meadows Museum, Dallas
2006 225pp. 40 b/ w + 112 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12153-7 £30.00*
Fashion,
Italian Style Valerie Steele
Published in association with The Museum
at the Fashion Institute of Technology
2003 144pp. 5 b/ w + 132 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10014-3 £20.00*
Ralph Rucci The Art of Weightlessness
Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears
and Clare Sauro
Published in association with The Museum
at the Fashion Institute of Technology
2007 224pp. 150 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12278-7 £29.99*
fashiondesigners
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Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837–1987
Clare Phillips • With contributions
by Vivienne Becker, Ulysses Grant
Dietz, Alice Cooney Frelinghuysen,
John Loring and Katherine Purcell
The Gilbert Collection Trust/Tiffany & Co.
2006 320pp. 170 b/ w + 300 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11651-9 £45.00*
Georg Jensen
Jewelry Edited by David A. Taylor
Published in association with the
Bard Graduate Center for Studies in
the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
2005 400pp. 70 b/ w + 330 colour illus.ISBN 978-0-300-10706-7 £35.00*
fashionaccessories
Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique—these great designers came together only once to
display their goods in what was probably the most opulent exhibition evermounted. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, the three strove to position
themselves ahead of their many competitors in the luxury market, each presenting
his jewellery and home adornments as high art. Their success is explored in this
splendidly illustrated catalogue, which elucidates the prewar pinnacle of European
culture. The array of displayed objects was mesmerising: Tiffany glass, Easter eggs
to dazzle the Czars, realistic insects created in precious materials as sinister
decorations. Many of these bore influences of the advanced art of the time, such
as Art Nouveau, Viennese modernism and symbolism and of styles from around
the world.
Published in association with the Cleveland Museum of Art
January 2009 288pp. approx. 300 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14224-2 £40.00*
Artistic Luxury Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique
Edited by Stephen Harrison Essays by Emmanuel Ducamp
and Jeannine Falino
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fashion&design
Marimekko Fabrics, Fashion,
Architecture
Edited by Marianne Aav
2003 336pp. 85 b/ w + 300 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10183-6 £35.00*
Wearing Propaganda Textiles on the Home Front in Japan,
Britain, and the United States
1931–1945
Jacqueline M. Atkins
Published in association with the
Bard Graduate Center for Studies in
the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
2005 400pp. 400 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10925-2 £35.00*
Glamour Fashion, Industrial Design,
Architecture
Edited by Joseph Rosa
Published with the San Francisco
Museum of Modern Art
2004 192pp. 25 b/ w + 290 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10640-4 £25.00*
Candace W heeler The Art and Enterprise of American
Design, 1875–1900
Amelia Peck and Carol Irish
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
2001 288pp. 102 b/ w + 86 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-09081-9 £17.95*
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fashionhistory
The Corset A Cultural History
Valerie Steele
2001 208pp. 110 b/ w + 30 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-09953-9 £15.00*
Grace Kelly Icon of Style to Royal Bride
H. Kristina Haugland
Published with the
Philadelphia Museum of Art
2006 80pp. 40 b/ w + 20 colour illus.
Pb ISBN 978-0-300-11644-1 £12.99*
Fifty Years of Fashion New Look to Now
Valerie Steele
2000 176pp. 50 b/ w + 100 colour illus.
Pb ISBN 978-0-300-08738-3 £14.00*
Goddess The Classical Mode
Harold Koda
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
2003 224pp. 28 b/w + 85 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-09882-2 £25.00*
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fashionhistory
Plumes Ostrich Feathers, Jews,
and a Lost World of
Global Commerce
Sarah Abrevaya Stein
January 2009 224pp. 17 b/ w illus. + 1 map
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12736-2 £18.00*
Dangerous Liaisons Fashion and Furniture in
the Eighteenth Century
Harold Koda, Andrew Bolton
and Daniëlle Kisluk-Grosheide
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
2006 128pp. 68 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10714-2 £16.99*
Silk Mary Schoeser With a foreword by
Julien Macdonald
2007 256pp. 7 b/w + 258 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11741-7 £29.99*
The London Look Fashion from Street
to Catwalk
Christopher Breward, Edwina
Ehrman and Caroline Evans
Published in association with the
Museum of London
2004 180pp. 20 b/ w + 120 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10399-1 £25.00*
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The Dress of the People Everyday Fashion in
Eighteenth-Century England
John Styles
2008 288pp. 50 b/w + 50 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12119-3 £25.00*
Fashion and Fiction Dress in Art and Literature
in Stuart England
Aileen Ribeiro
Published for the Paul Mellon Centre
for Studies in British Art
2006 352pp. 100 b/ w + 80 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10999-3 £40.00*
Sarah Bernhardt The Art of High Drama Carol Ockman and Kenneth E. Silver
Published in association with
The Jewish Museum, NY
2005 232pp. 73 b/ w + 122 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10919-1 £29.95*
Dress in the
Middle Ages Françoise Piponnier
and Perrine Mane
1997 176pp. 60 illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-08691-1 £12.99*
fashionhistory
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fashionhistory
Dressed to Rule Royal and Court Costume
From Louis XIV to Elizabeth II
Philip Mansel
2005 256pp. 50 b/w + 15 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10697-8 £22.50*
Women Designers in t he USA, 1900–2000 Diversity and Difference
Edited by Pat Kirkham
Published in association with the
Bard Graduate Center for Studies in
the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture
2002 464pp. 50 b/ w + 300 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-09331-5 £25.00
fashion forthcoming
The Empire’s New
Clothes A History of the Russian Fashion Industry,
1700–1917
Christine Ruane
April 2009 256pp. 70 b/ w + 50 colour illus.
Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14155-9 £35.00*
Models & Muses Fashioning the Ideal
Harold Koda
and Kohle Yohannan
Models & Musesexplores fashion’s
reciprocal relationship to iconic beautiesthat represent the evolution and
changing face of the feminine ideal.
Featuring a brief historical overview of
the phenomenon of the supermodel,
the book begins in the early twentieth
century and continues to the present
day. With an emphasis on styles from
the 1950s onward, the book featuresdesigns from the great ready-to-wear
and couture houses.
Published in association with
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
May 2009 200pp. 175 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14893-0 £30.00*
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fashion
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Front cover: Olivier Theyskens, Gloomy Trips, 1997.
Styling by Olivier Theyskens. Photograph courtesy Les Cyclopes.From: Gothic: Dark Glamour by Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park.