zippers 101

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ZIPPERS 101

What is a Zipper?



Invention

Invented in 1891 by an engineer named Whitcomb L. Judson, the “Slide Fastener” or “Clasp Locker” consisted of hooks and eyes to close a bag or boots. The fastener was crude and did have the tendency to open.Whitcomb L. Judson

United States Patent Office


The Modern Zipper

In 1913, Swedish-born engineer Gideon Sundback developed a zipper using metal teeth instead of hooks and eyes. His patented invention in 1917 was the forerunner of the modern brass toothed zipper. The name “Zipper” was first used by B. F. Goodrich to describe a rubber boot which used Sundback’s fastener.

Gideon Sundback

1917 patent of the "separable fastener" (zipper) by Gideon Sundbäck.


The process of opening and closing a zipper is in essence a gearing mechanism. The zipper's teeth are the cogs of the gear. The slider aligns the teeth in a fashion to close the zipper, allowing each tooth to mesh with the next tooth. When opening a zipper, the interior of the slider has a diamond shape, which is what is forced between the teeth, causing the “gear” to open.

Zipper Mechanism


A zipper consisting of two rows of teeth on strips of tapeand a slider that draws the teeth together.

Structure of a Zipper

Closed Bottom Zipper

Separating ZipperPULLER

BODY

CROWN

Slider


Determine the function in closing a zipper

Function of a Zipper

Closed-end (C) Open-end[Separator] (O)

Two-waySeparator (M)

Zipper withdouble sliders (C)

Zipper with double sliders (CX)

Arranged in head-to-head relation

Arranged in bottom-to-bottom relation


The hand that the pin is held in when wearing the garmentdetermines whether the insert is left or right.

USA – Standard Left insert (OL) All other parts of the world Standard right insert (OR)

Opening Direction of a Zipper (Pin insert)


Measuring a ZipperHow to Measure a Zipper

Classification Dimensions 　(A) Dimensions of top tape extension (B)

Dimensions of bottom tape extension(C)

Closed endzipper

From the top end of the slider to the tip of the bottom

stop

From the top stop to the tip of notches

of the cut end

Zipper with double sliders (arranged in head-to-head

relation)

From the tip of one bottom stop to the

tip of the other bottom stop

From the tip of the bottom stop to the

tip of notches of the cut end

Zipper with double sliders (arranged in bottom-to-

bottom relation)

From the top end of one slider to the

top end of the other slider

Same as the top tape extension end

portion

Open-endzipper

From the top end of the slider to the

tip of the box

From the upper bottom stop to the tip of notches of the cut end

From the top stop to the tip of notches of the cut end


From the top stop to the cut end


Measuring a Zipper

Classification Dimensions 　 (A) Dimensions of top tape extension (B)Dimensions of

bottom tape extension(C)

Two way separator From

the top

From the top end of the slider to the

bottom end of the supplementary tape

Top open zipper From the top stop to the tip of the box

Reversible slider

Rather than from the top end,

measurement should be made from the

shoulder inlet portion of the slider

When the top stop does not

enter the slider

Measurement should be made from the

top stop

How to Measure a Zipper






Types of Zippers　

“ Zipper”


Metal zipper Coil zipper VISLON® zipper(Injection molded)

Types of Zipper Teeth


Aluminum 　Matl: Aluminum(A)

Golden BrassMatl: Brass(G)

Black OxidizedMatl: Brass(GK)

Antique BrassMatl: Brass(GKB)

Antique SilverMatl: Brass(GTH)

SilverMatl: Nickel(MN)

Golden BrassMatl: Brass(G)

Antique GoldMatl: Brass(GKB)

Dull SilverMatl: Brass(GRDS)*Only for #3 (#45)

Antique SilverMatl: Brass(GTH)

BlackMatl: Brass(GK)

Nickel SilverMatl: Nickel(N)

Types of Zipper Chain - METAL1. Regular Metal ZipperTeeth Colors

SIZE 3M, 4M, 5R, 7M, 8M, 10M

2. Jeans Y-Type Zipper SIZE 3Y (45Y), 4Y, 5Y

Teeth Colors


Single type (Y):Only 1 slider can be used on the chain.

Double type (W):2 sliders can be used like in the two way open zipper.

Golden Brass(OG)

Nickel(P)

Black Nickel (V6)

Antique Brass(I)

Antique Silver(H6)*

Antique Copper(X)

Luxury Gold(Q)

Matte White Bronze (C9)

Silver(C5)

Shiny Black(X7)

* At the beginning of September 2012, the code will change to ‘H3’

All made of Brass

Types of Zipper Chain - METAL3. EXCELLA® YKK’s highest quality metal zipper. Each tooth is polished and plated and then put on the tape.

SIZE 2SG, 3SGY, 3SGW, 5SGY, 5SGW, 8SG, 8SGW

Teeth Colors


Aluminum StainlessEL-SIL3

Antique SilverEL-SIL2

Black NickelEL-BLK3

Antique BrassEL-GOL4

Antique CopperEL-COP3

Golden BrassEL-GOL3

RedEL-RED2

OrangeEL-ORE3

PurpleEL-VIO3

GreenEL-GRN3

BlueEL-BLU6

MIXEL-COM2

Types of Zipper Chain - METAL4. LUMINA® The aluminum EXCELLA® element retains its strength, but creates a lightweight zipper with a color variation.

SIZE 3SAW, 5SAW, 8SAW

Teeth Colors


Golden Brass(G)

Nickel Silver(N)

Anti-Nickel Silver

Types of Zipper Chain - METAL5. EVERBRIGHT® Gloss-polished zippers are smooth to the touch, glossy, and corrosion-resistant.

SIZE 3MGP, 4MGP, 5RGP, 7MGP, 8MGP, 10MGP

Teeth Colors


Zipper Manufacturing - METAL Zippers

Tape Element

Making metalteeth

Oxidation(GKB/GTH)

Making Chain

Attaching the element to the tape

AssemblingSlider/Parts

Dyeing Tape

Weaving Natural Tape

＋Element

Chain

Tape

＋


* Reverse available

SIZE 2CF, 3CF, 45CF, 5CNF, 8CF, 10CF1. Coil Zipper Front-Side Use

SIZE 3CF, 5CNF2. Coil Zipper Reverse Use

SIZE 2CH, 3CH, 5CH3. CONCEAL® (Invisible) Zipper

Types of Zipper Chain - COIL

SIZE 5RC, 8RC, 10RC4. RC (Racquet Coil) Zipper for Luggage*


Zipper Manufacturing - COIL Zippers


Tape ElementMaking coil element with Monofilament


ChainMaking Chain

Sewing the tape and element together

Dyeing Chain

Slider/Parts AssemblingChain

＋

＋


Standard Coil Zippers V.S. Color Combination

Making Chain

Dyeing Chain

Making Chain

Making Chain

Dyeing Chain Dyeing TapeDyeing Chain

Standard Coil zipper Color combination of Coil zipperPattern1 Pattern2

Colored element

Transparent,Natural color,Black, White

DyeingTape

Element Tape

Chain Dyeing

Separating tape and element from color dyed chain to get the element

Dyeing Tape

Element Tape

Sewing the colored tape and colored element together to

make the chain.

Making Chain

Regular coil chain is dyed in chain with tape

and element sewn together.

Sewing the colored tape and colored element together to

make the chain.

Making Chain

Making Chain

Dyeing Chain


STANDARD COIL

The section of element

CONCEAL®

Only a slider tab indicates that a slider body is entirely on the

inside of a garment.

The section of element

Standard Coil Zippers v.s. Concealed Zippers


STANDARD COIL RC ZIPPER

The RC zipper features a unique oval shape that ensures durability. YKK takes the advanced design to the next level by strategically placing the sewing thread (which attaches the zipper to the tape) in an indentation on the oval --

thus protecting it from exposure and from being easily torn.

Countries where the patent is valid: (as of Spt. 2012)　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 Japan, USA, German, France, UK, Italy, Spain, Korea, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia

Available size：　＃ 5, 8, 10

Standard Coil Zippers v.s. RC Zippers


Types of Zipper Chain – VISLON® VISLON® Plastic teeth injected onto tape.

Size

Metallic Colors

VSMBAntique Gold#G765

VSMGGold#701

VSMJMatt Black#G770

VSMPGolden Brass#G702

VSMRAntique Silver#G744

VSMVSilver#703

3VS 4VS 5VS 8VS 10VF 15VF


VISLON® Variations

* more colors available

SIZE 3VZ, 5VZ

1. Flat VISLON® Square shaped VISLON®.

SIZE 5VY, 8VY

2. METALUXE®

Element that looks like a metal zipper but is made of plastic.

SIZE 3VSNT, 4VSNT, 5VSNT, 8VSNT

3. Transparent VISLON®

Transparent element.

SIZE 3VSK, 5VSK

4. LUMIFINE™

Glow in the dark element.

SIZE 45VSF, 75VSF, 95VSF

5 FINGUARD™

Element in the shape of a fin.


Zipper Manufacturing – VISLON® Zippers

Weaving Natural Tape Dyeing Tape

Making ChainChain

Slider/Parts AssemblingChain

＋

ElementTapeDyeing Tape


Making ChainInjecting the element

on to the tape

Open End Zipper Closed End Zipper

Plastic Chip


Types of Zippers

　“ Sliders”


Types of Sliders

ZFNon-lock

DA8Automatic lockWon’t open unless you pull the zipper pull.

DSSemi-Automatic lockUnlocks when the zipperpull is raised 90degrees.

GS6Semi-Automatic lockSemi-auto for Jeans. Made of brass.

CA8Automatic lockAuto-lock. You can clip on your own puller.

CFNon-lockNon-lock. You can clip on your own puller.

ZAAutomatic lockAuto-lock. You can clip on your own puller.

DUReversible 　 Automatic Auto lock. For reversible use.

ZFNon-lockNon-lock. You can clip on your own puller.

DFWNon-lockNo locking mechanism.For pockets, bags, etc.

DFNTNon-lockNon-lock. You can attach your own puller by closing the crown.


Standard finishes that can be done in more than 2 factories in the world.Slider Finishes

H6Antique Silver

H1Dark Antique Silver

HC5Dark Silver

C6Matte Silver

C5Silver

V6Black Silver

V7Matte Black Silver

X6Black Oxides

RLBright Copper

XAntique Copper

IAntique Brass

IFLight Antique Brass

IMSuper Light Antique Brass

FQMatte Rose Gold

KQRose Gold

GSMatte Yellow Gold

EEnamel Painted

EFMatte Enamel

EM V(#703)Metalic Enamel

EM R(#744)Metalic Enamel

EM J(#770)Metalic Enamel

EM B(#765)Metalic Enamel

EM G(#701)Metalic Enamel

OGold

OJJeans Gold

→H3 → Ｖ 3

Not available for metal zippers


YKK Sliders Catalog

- Contains YKK’s basic large sale sliders.- Sections divided by chain type such as Metal, Coil and VISLON®.- The first section (page 3-5) explains the basics of sliders and shows the basic slider finishes.

Contents

Cover Page3-5

At the top of each page there is a photo of the type of zipper that can be used with the sliders.

Slider photos in actual size.


Slider photo in actual size

Slider code“D” = Die-cast (zinc alloy)“A” = Automatic Lock“8” = Development number (YKK internal use)

YKK Sliders CatalogPage4


Zipper Nomenclature

• Please provide the information in yellow and green to YKK.• No need to memorize all YKK codes.When necessary, please ask a YKK representative to write down the code for you.

TapeSpecial featuresKENSIN: Means that the zipper passes needle detection

NC-A.N-ANTI: Means that the zipper meets the requirement for

94/27/EC for nickel. P-TOP: Plastic top stop.

CFC-36 DA E P12 KENSIN N-ANTI P-TOP

Chain typeC* = coilM*/R*=metalV* = VISLON(see page **)

Zipper functionC = closed-endOL = open-end left insertOR = open-end right insertML= two-way left insertMR = two-way right insert

Zippergauge

Slider code(see page**)

Slider finish (see page**)

A standard description is usually provided to customers:

Size 3 standard coil, painted automatic lock slider, closed-end zipper


How to Choose a Zipper


How to Choose a Zipper1. Please decide which zipper function and slider you need.

Center FrontNormally, an open-end or two-way open end zipper with an auto or semi-auto lock slider is used, so that the zipper won’t open up on its own.

Pockets/sleevesNormally, a closed-end zipper with a non-lock slider is used so that you can open it easily.

BottomsA closed-end zipper for fly. The slider should be an auto or semi-auto lock.The recommended zipper differs by the thickness of the fabric and the typeof pants. The YZiP® is recommended for jeans that have been washed harshly.

2. Please decide the gauge.The available gauge differs by item, so please consult a YKK representative.

3. Please decide the detail.Color, element finish, special features…etc., and the length of the zipper.


Bottoms

• From zippers to buttons, YKK provides a variety of jeans wear trims.

• Our popular YZiP® zippers are designed specifically for denim apparel. Since jeans will go through tough washing, the YZiP® is designed to be strong enough to resist corrosion when compared to standard metal zippers.

• The YZiP® is available in different sizes and various finishes with standard and customized logo pulls.

Jeans

Pants, shorts

Regular coilSize 3CF, 5CNAvailable in reverse

FLATKNIT™

Size 25FK


Casual / Ready-to-Wear

Color combination

METALLION®

Metallic platedelement

Neon element Transparent element with colored thread

Tape variation

CONCEAL® Jacquard zipper

Herringbone Melange Stripe Neon color Print

Color combination

“Clean” look

EXCELLA®


Sports / Outdoor

The AquaGuard® coil, a water repellent zipper,is created by applying a PU coating on the backside of a coil zipper.

There are two types of film variations: shiny transparent film and matte transparent film.

There is also a VISLON® version of AquaGuard® zipper.

AquaGuard® VISLON®

Size 3, 5, 8. Water repellent VISLON® zipper.Water-RWater repellent (no PU coating)

AquaGuard® CoilSize 3 & 5. Water repellent coil zipper.

T8Shiny Transparent film

T10Matte Transparent film

T8Shiny Transparent film

T10Matte Transparent film

T9Matte Colored film


BackpacksFor backpack applications, YKK has products that accommodate various functions. We offer lightweight, water repellent and abrasion resistant items. The durability of these products makes them excellent for outdoor use. YKK has a wide range of color variations for each product to ensure that you can enjoy your favorite and original combination.

RC (Racquet Coil) zipperStronger against abrasion compared to regular coil.

Ultra light-weightBuckle

Other buckles

Adjuster

5RC 8RC 10RC

LB-MVD LB-MVS LM-MV LB-WG LB-LV


AQUASEAL® Water proof VISLON® zipper for applications such as wader, wet suit,…etc.

PROSEAL® Water-tight air-tight for applications such as immersion suits and dry suits.

Marine

Size 5, 10 Size 4, 8, 12

Double Seal

Single Seal (closed end)

Single Seal (open end)

4TZ 8TZ

12TZ


Request YKK N-Anti Zippers!

RegulationRegulation (EC) No 1907/2006 (REACH) Annex XVII

Products subject to regulationWatches, Watch Straps, Zippers, Buttons, Rivets, Buckles, Belts and other products that come into direct contact with skin

Nickel Content Limit0.5 ug/cm2/week (EN 1811)

YKK products indicated as “N-ANTI” meet the above restriction

Nickel Regulation


1) Needles found in infant garments caused the requirement of using needle detection devices in Japan.2) All garments imported to Japan must be tested by needle detective devices.

3) Product Liability Law was established on July 1, 1995.4) UK buyer M&S also requires needle detection.

NC -A NC - B

BROKEN PIN NEEDLE

0.8 MM 1.2 MM 1.5 MM 2.5 MM STEEL BALL STEEL BALL STEEL BALL STEEL BALL

BABY SET POINTPRODUCTS FOR PIN

Request YKK KENSIN Zippers!

Needle Detection (KENSIN)

http://ykknorthamerica.com/ 41http://www.ykkfastening.com/quality/standard/methods.html

Zipper Test Methods

To determine the ordinary zipper strength a zipper chain is interlocked, pulled at a fixed speed at a right angle to the chain’s interlocked direction, then the resistance is measures.

The lower part of an interlocked zipper is fixed and the slider is pulled up to the top stop.The holding strengths is measured by pulling the slider tab firmly.

The slider is pulled down to the bottom stop and the single chains are opened to the right and left sides.The bottom stop holding strength and the resistance of the elements inside the slider are measured.

The open part of the zipper is fixed to the tensile tester (only the art as shown in the figure) so that the end of the last element falls into line with the clamp edge and the tensile strength can be measured.

A slider is locked at the middle of a zipper chain and the single chains are opened to the right and left sides.The locking strength and resistance of the elements inside the slider are measured.

For a completed slider, the resistance of the slider is measured when the pull tab is pulled away from the lower part of the body. In addition to the 90 degree method of measuring shown in the figure at left, there is one for 45 degrees.

zippers 101

Design