zoe romano
DESCRIPTION
"Openwear.org: from open source branding to collaborative clothing" - Open Design / Shared Creativity Conference. Barcelona, 2012TRANSCRIPT
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Barcelona, July 2012
From open source branding to collaborative clothing
Zoe Romano@zoescope
@openwear_cc
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In 2005 San Precario collective based in Milan organized an action to highlight the exploitation of workers in the fashion system
★ We created a fake fashion designer and managed to insert it in the official calendar of Milan Fashion Week
★ We presented a brand identity and the immaterial reality of her existence.
★ A collection of allegoric outfits expressing our experiences of work and, at the same time, showing our skills
★The action involved 200 workers and creatives living and working in Milan
Precarity in the Fashion System
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What to do next
After the Fashion Week and the successful action we decided to create a no-profit association to
★ keep reflecting on work in the creative industries - over-production
★ being active on experimenting self-production and craft - understanding quality
★ start a reflection on intellectual property, open-source and branding - value Fashion garments are not protected by copyright, only the brand is protected by trademark
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Oh! We have a Trademark
Brand built to appeal
Values Cultural mix - Controversy -
Elitistic
Brand as symbolic apparatus to gather relations toward
consumer culture
Brand expressing who is nurturing it
ValuesSharing - Social innovation - Flexicurity not precarity - Alternative economies
Brand as tool to promote new values in society
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The Fashion System: a polarization
Big Brands Fast Fashion
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A new trend: the rise of DIY
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The values, the imageries and the desires expressed by our brand are not manufactured to foster consumerism and based on exploitation but
to empower a network of small producers and promote a different kind of fashion based on collaboration, sharing, short supply chain and else.
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A Metabrand is not a Certification
A Metabrand is a bottom-up brand created buy a peer-reviewed network of small creators and
consumers who produce value for the brand and benefit from it at the same time
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EDUfashion network was formed by: Poper (Slovenia), Ethical Economy (UK), Università Statale Milano (IT), Copenhagen Business School (DM), Fashion University (Slovenia)
★ Research on the Open Design and p2p fashion
★ Prototyping the community in 2010
2009 Let’s go EU application
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Key point of experimentation
• Define the networked artisan as a new worker
fashion designer ------->networked artisan<------------ crafter/artisan
(highly immaterial) (highly material)
• Brand Open Source Copyright (Creative Commons License, GPL, etc.),
• Manufacturing becomes a distributed process (makers/manufacturers)
• Copy as a legitimate resource Fashion doesn’t protect the technical specification of the garments.
• The online community as a new Public Space
• Enterprise goes social: Social goals are primary, business is a way to achieve them
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The new role of the freelance designer: she inhabits the global spaces of online communities and shares locally projects and infrastructures
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NETWORKED ARTISANS/STUDENTS/CONSUMERS
LOCAL HUBS(social enterprises)
EDU INSTITUTIONS(universities, schools,
learning centers)Suppliers
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★ Building and online and offline community to share knowledge, find support and collaborators to define a new model for crafts.
3 shared resources
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★ A series of Collaborative collection with an open-source brand
★ Prototypes freely downloadable which members can produce and sell, benefiting from the social innovation created within the community.
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Openwear is open-source
★ A collective brand made open-source by a license
★ The pattern and the logo become a common of the community
http://vimeo.com/16541497
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- Download
- Produce
- Customize
- Label with Openwear
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Peer-reviewed Network
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WORKSHOP - Make it with the laser!
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Making it together is better than making yourself