認識保養品與 含藥化妝品有效成分
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認識保養品與 含藥化妝品有效成分. 前健保局第二門診中心特約皮膚科主任 台北榮總皮膚部兼任主治醫師 于賓診所 皮膚美容 雷射微整 家庭醫學 院長 彭于賓 醫師. 大 綱. 皮膚基本構造 改善皮膚的效果 皮膚基礎保養 保養品安全性 保養品的有效性. 一般保養品有效成分 一般保養品標示 一般錯誤的觀念 認識含藥化妝品 含藥化妝品 含藥化粧品有效美白成分. 一、皮膚基本構造. 1. 表皮層 (Epidermis) a. 角質層 b. 透明層 c. 顆粒層 d. 棘皮細胞層 e. 基底層 - PowerPoint PPT PresentationTRANSCRIPT
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1. (Epidermis) a. b. c. d. e. 2. (Dermis) a. (Fibroblast) b. (ECM) : 1) 2) 3) (GAGS) ****3. (Subcutis)
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1. (Epidermis) TriglycerideCeramideCholesterolSqualeneNatural moisturizing factor
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Triglyceride
Triglyceride
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-: (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
: pHAplus
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Ceramide30~40%
Ceramide
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CeramideCeramide: Skin becomes dehydrated easily and is too fragile to fight against exterior stimulations, such as air pollution and UV rays. Ceramide: Ceramides help locking in hydration in the corneum, activate skin cells and protect skin surface from the exterior stimulation. Also, skin with enough Ceramides can inhibit the generation of Atopic dermatitis and Xeroderma.
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Ceramide
Ceramide 136
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-CMS: (1) (Ceramide) ,IIIB (2) ( Cupuacu Better) (3) (Corallina Officinalis Ext.) (4) (Hyaluronic Acid)
:
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Cholesterol
Cholesterol
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Squalene Squalane()
Squalene
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-CMS: (1) (Phytosphingosine) (2) (Ceramides) I,II,III,IIIA,IIIB,VI (3) (Squalane) (4) (Fatty Acid) (5) (Triglycerides) (6) (Phosphatidylcholine)
:
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Natural moisturizing factorA. (Amino acid)B. Na-PCAsodium pyrrolidone carboxylateC. (Lactate)D. (Urea)E. (Glucosamine)F. G.
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A. (Amino acid)Amino acid-NMF
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B. Na-PCAsodium pyrrolidone carboxylate sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate-NMF
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C. (Lactate)
Lactate acid-NMF
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D. (Urea)Urea-NMF
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E. (Glucosamine)(Proteoglycan) () Glucosamine-NMF
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F.
Peptide-NMF
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G.-A-NMF
Glycolic acidLatic acidMalic acidTartatic acidCitric acidMandelic acid
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(10%) :
(10~30%) :
(30%) :
G.-B-NMF
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55-PGAGamma Polyglutamic Acid)
-(glutamic acid) () -PGA
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-PGA4600!!!
5000
-PGA -NMF Pyrrolidone carboxyli cacid (PCA) Lactic acid()Urocanic acid () (HA) --PGA (-)
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-PGA
-PGA
-PGA PH 4~6--PGA (-)
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-
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: (1) -PGA Hydragel - (2) -PGA (3) (4) E (5) Aloe Extract (6) Grape Extract (7) Allantoin (8) CeramideCitric AcidImidazolidinyl Urea
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: (1) -PGA Hydragel - (2) Ceramide-||| -||| (3) Sea WeedExtract (4) Deep Sea Salt-
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(W/O)(O/W)(W-O-W)()-
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2. (Dermis) CollagenElastin (Glycosaminoglycans-GAGS)
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Collagen33%
(Soluble collagen)
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Elastin- NMF
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(Glycosaminoglycans-GAGS)A.Hyaluronic acidB.Chondroitin sulfate
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A.Hyaluronic acid15~20%16 1000c c/g
-GAGSHyaluronic acid
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-: (1) 210 (2) (3) (Zine PCA)
: () ()
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B.Chondroitin sulfate
Chondroitin sulfate-GAGS
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Irritation Sensitization
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Irritation SensitizationEyes irritation(Patch test Phototoxicity Photosensitization
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-A=Hyaluronic acidCK
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,,
Allantoin
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-CMS: (1) (2) B5 ( Panthenol ) (3) (SOD) (4) (5) (Allantoin) (6)
:
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CC
CCC
C
A C L-Ascorbic acid
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-C: (1) C (Ascorbic Acid) (2) (Hyaluronic Acid) (3) (Chamomilla Recutita) (4) (Di-potassium glucyrrizinate) (5) (Enteromorpha Compressa) (6) (Squalane) (6) (NMF)
:
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. Glycyrrhizicacid
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-: (1) (2) 3 (3) (4) (5) E (6)
: NEO-TEC
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C1 B1 B2 B3
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-: (1) (Plantapon acg 30/50) (2) (Totarol) (3) (Hydrolyzed soy protein) (4) (Camelia synensis) (5) (Aloe arbadensis extract)
: PH5.5-6.0
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,,
Tranexamic acid
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-TA: (1) - PH5.5-6.0 (2) (Totarol)-
: (1) (2) -(plasmin)
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K1
Vitamin K1
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,
Ginkgo
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-A
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-B
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-C (SPF)SPF pH3.5
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-D
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-E
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-A
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-B
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-C
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()
-D
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-EA(Trerinoin)(Hydroquinone)(Azelaic acid )
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ATRETINOIN-AAA2AAAAA
AA AA A Trentinoin
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ATRETINOIN-B
ADNA
A
A7ASPF30
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HYDROQUINONE-A
A
3-4
Hydroquinone
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31A
1-2%4%(OCHRONOSIS)HYDROQUINONE-B
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AZELAIC ACID(P.ACNE)(ROSACEA)7 Azelaic acid
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AZELAIC ACID
(1) : 20%- (2) : 15%- (3) : - Azelaic acid
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(Kojic acid)
Kojic acid dipalmitate
2Kojic acid
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(Arbutin)
7 Arbutin
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-KTC: (1) (Kojic Acid) (2) C (L-Ascorbic acid) (3) (Kalanchoe Spathulata Extract) (4) (Tranexamic acid) (5) (Cucumber Extract) (6) r-PGA
:
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