Download - 認識保養品與 含藥化妝品有效成分
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1. (Epidermis) a. b. c. d. e. 2. (Dermis) a. (Fibroblast) b. (ECM) : 1) 2) 3) (GAGS) ****3. (Subcutis)
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1. (Epidermis) TriglycerideCeramideCholesterolSqualeneNatural moisturizing factor
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Triglyceride
Triglyceride
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-: (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6)
: pHAplus
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Ceramide30~40%
Ceramide
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CeramideCeramide: Skin becomes dehydrated easily and is too fragile to fight against exterior stimulations, such as air pollution and UV rays. Ceramide: Ceramides help locking in hydration in the corneum, activate skin cells and protect skin surface from the exterior stimulation. Also, skin with enough Ceramides can inhibit the generation of Atopic dermatitis and Xeroderma.
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Ceramide
Ceramide 136
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-CMS: (1) (Ceramide) ,IIIB (2) ( Cupuacu Better) (3) (Corallina Officinalis Ext.) (4) (Hyaluronic Acid)
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Cholesterol
Cholesterol
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Squalene Squalane()
Squalene
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-CMS: (1) (Phytosphingosine) (2) (Ceramides) I,II,III,IIIA,IIIB,VI (3) (Squalane) (4) (Fatty Acid) (5) (Triglycerides) (6) (Phosphatidylcholine)
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Natural moisturizing factorA. (Amino acid)B. Na-PCAsodium pyrrolidone carboxylateC. (Lactate)D. (Urea)E. (Glucosamine)F. G.
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A. (Amino acid)Amino acid-NMF
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B. Na-PCAsodium pyrrolidone carboxylate sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate-NMF
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C. (Lactate)
Lactate acid-NMF
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D. (Urea)Urea-NMF
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E. (Glucosamine)(Proteoglycan) () Glucosamine-NMF
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F.
Peptide-NMF
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G.-A-NMF
Glycolic acidLatic acidMalic acidTartatic acidCitric acidMandelic acid
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(10%) :
(10~30%) :
(30%) :
G.-B-NMF
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55-PGAGamma Polyglutamic Acid)
-(glutamic acid) () -PGA
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-PGA4600!!!
5000
-PGA -NMF Pyrrolidone carboxyli cacid (PCA) Lactic acid()Urocanic acid () (HA) --PGA (-)
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-PGA
-PGA
-PGA PH 4~6--PGA (-)
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: (1) -PGA Hydragel - (2) -PGA (3) (4) E (5) Aloe Extract (6) Grape Extract (7) Allantoin (8) CeramideCitric AcidImidazolidinyl Urea
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: (1) -PGA Hydragel - (2) Ceramide-||| -||| (3) Sea WeedExtract (4) Deep Sea Salt-
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(W/O)(O/W)(W-O-W)()-
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2. (Dermis) CollagenElastin (Glycosaminoglycans-GAGS)
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Collagen33%
(Soluble collagen)
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Elastin- NMF
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(Glycosaminoglycans-GAGS)A.Hyaluronic acidB.Chondroitin sulfate
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A.Hyaluronic acid15~20%16 1000c c/g
-GAGSHyaluronic acid
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-: (1) 210 (2) (3) (Zine PCA)
: () ()
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B.Chondroitin sulfate
Chondroitin sulfate-GAGS
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Irritation Sensitization
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Irritation SensitizationEyes irritation(Patch test Phototoxicity Photosensitization
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-A=Hyaluronic acidCK
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,,
Allantoin
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-CMS: (1) (2) B5 ( Panthenol ) (3) (SOD) (4) (5) (Allantoin) (6)
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CC
CCC
C
A C L-Ascorbic acid
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-C: (1) C (Ascorbic Acid) (2) (Hyaluronic Acid) (3) (Chamomilla Recutita) (4) (Di-potassium glucyrrizinate) (5) (Enteromorpha Compressa) (6) (Squalane) (6) (NMF)
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. Glycyrrhizicacid
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-: (1) (2) 3 (3) (4) (5) E (6)
: NEO-TEC
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C1 B1 B2 B3
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-: (1) (Plantapon acg 30/50) (2) (Totarol) (3) (Hydrolyzed soy protein) (4) (Camelia synensis) (5) (Aloe arbadensis extract)
: PH5.5-6.0
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,,
Tranexamic acid
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-TA: (1) - PH5.5-6.0 (2) (Totarol)-
: (1) (2) -(plasmin)
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K1
Vitamin K1
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,
Ginkgo
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-A
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-B
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-C (SPF)SPF pH3.5
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-D
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-E
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-A
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-B
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-C
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()
-D
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-EA(Trerinoin)(Hydroquinone)(Azelaic acid )
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ATRETINOIN-AAA2AAAAA
AA AA A Trentinoin
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ATRETINOIN-B
ADNA
A
A7ASPF30
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HYDROQUINONE-A
A
3-4
Hydroquinone
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31A
1-2%4%(OCHRONOSIS)HYDROQUINONE-B
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AZELAIC ACID(P.ACNE)(ROSACEA)7 Azelaic acid
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AZELAIC ACID
(1) : 20%- (2) : 15%- (3) : - Azelaic acid
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(Kojic acid)
Kojic acid dipalmitate
2Kojic acid
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(Arbutin)
7 Arbutin
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-KTC: (1) (Kojic Acid) (2) C (L-Ascorbic acid) (3) (Kalanchoe Spathulata Extract) (4) (Tranexamic acid) (5) (Cucumber Extract) (6) r-PGA
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