093424 greekgourmet vol 03
TRANSCRIPT
SUMMER 2006
Ouzo / New York’s Greek Revival / Peaches to Love / Spoon Sweets /Santorini’s Volcanic Wines / Crete’s Cuisine / Greek Summer Kerasma Recipes
3 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
ContentsISSUE 3 SUMMER 2006
Letter from the President of HEPO 4
Letter from the CEO of HEPO 5
Kerasma Faces-Kerasma Places 7
Letter from the Greek Finance Minister 8
Letter from the Editor 11
Eat a Peach! 13
By Orestes Davias
Big Apple Greek: In New York, Greek Restaurants are Hot 19
By Daphne Zepos
Great New Dishes From New York's Greek Restaurants 27
Ouzo 101: Greece’s National Drink is a Way of Life 37
By Konstantinos Lazarakis
Farming the Sea: Greek Mariculture Thrives 45
By Rachel Howard
Wines from a Volcano 53
By Constantine Stergides
Spoonfuls of Hospitality: Greek Spoon Sweets Return to the Plate 61
By Georgia Kofinas
Crete: Memories of a Cookbook Writer 68
By Diana Farr Louis
Crete on the Plate: Home Cooking and Restaurant Recipes 81
Kerasma Summer in the Kitchen: Menus and Recipes 93
from Greek Island Restaurants
Kerasma: Treat Your Taste with Great Recipes for Ouzo, 103
Assyrtico Wine, Farmed Fish, Spoon Sweets, and Peaches
LETTER FROM THE PRESIDENT OF HEPO
The first International KERASMA Conference in Athens this past March was a unique
and…delicious…experience! More than 100 retail buyers and food and wine journalists
joined us from around the world to experience and assess the campaign we began
here at HEPO as KERASMA-Greek Treats. They sampled dishes prepared from our
core of top Greek chefs, with the best, most unique regional Greek products. Each
meal was organized around a full range of accompanying Greek wines, unique in
themselves because of the vast spectrum of indigenous Greek grape varietals. Of
course, our “Kerasma”-treats-included ouzo, too, the national drink of Greece.
I wanted to take the opportunity to remind readers, yet again, of the enormous
range of Greek food products and spirits, all of them borne of the Greek earth, its
mountainous mainland and its myriad islands. Each of these products has its own
unique character and identity, among them: exceptional extra-virgin Greek olive
oil, honey—the most aromatic in the world—fresh and processed fruits, herbs,
spices such as mastiha and Greek saffron, feta cheese and more. Our wines, pro-
duced from truly unusual and unique local grapes, our cheeses, different in every
village, island, and mountain locale, and our fish, farmed in state-of-the-art facili-
ties all over the Aegean round out the palette of Greek gastronomic treasures.
Our guests in March also had the opportunity to learn more about something
extremely basic to the Greek table—its innate healthfulness. Greek cuisine is the
heart of Mediterranean cuisine, the soul of the Mediterranean Diet. In this issue,
we tout at least one aspect of the healthful Greek table, Crete. Crete was at the
very core of the Mediterranean Diet Studies. It is a land like no other, where the
riches of the table also happen to be extremely healthful: Olive oil, olives, whole-
grain breads and rusks, fruits, wild greens, and pulses, prepared with ingenuity
and variety, are at the core of the Cretan diet.
Our aim is to share the Greek table with the rest of the world. Until now, it has
been almost exclusively a local, familial pleasure. But the Kerasma Conference was
the catalyst to help us forge friendships and introduce our long-term plans for pro-
moting the delicious, healthful foods of Greece to a wide, international audience.
We would love to invite all of you who were not with us in March to savor the deli-
cacies of the Greek earth. We'll see you in September at SIAL in Paris. We'll do what
we do best there—run a great Greek restaurant in the heart of the show, where you
will be able to sample a gamut of dishes that are part of our unique Kerasma—
Treat Your Taste campaign.
Panagiotis I. Papastavrou
President
HEPO
4 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
LETTER FROM THE CEO OF HEPO
Much has happened in the world of Greek food and beverage promotions since the
last issue of the GreekGourmetraveler.
Way back in March, we at HEPO organized a successful 1st Quality Greek Food,
Wine and Spirits International Conference. The main events were held at the Athens
Concert Hall, where more than 100 buyers, food journalists and industry leaders
came together from eight countries and were treated to a grand array of Greek foods
and wines. Lectures on unique Greek foods and beverages, such as mastiha Chios,
saffron, and indigenous vinis vinifera grapes, live cooking demonstrations, excur-
sions to cheese, olive oil, and wine producers, and a day trip to Greece's quaint, his-
toric first capital, Nafplion, capped off the three-day event.
The efforts, of course, to reach out with a vast array of Greek treats under the
Kerasma campaign continues. HEPO has been on the road, organizing tastings,
informative events, dinners, and an all-around Greek presence in places as diverse as
Dusseldorf, Germany, at Prowein, and Dubai, one of the fastest-growing tourist des-
tinations in the world, where we organized a Greek Food Festival aimed at chefs,
food-and-beverage managers, buyers and journalists. HEPO was at the influential
London Wine & Spirits Fair in May, and, most recently and arguably most presti-
giously, at Roland Garros—The French Open—where we held a series of tastings and
product presentations for more than 250 French buyers, food and wine journalists,
and distributors at the Grand Chelem during the men's and women's finals.
Coinciding with this issue, of course, is the grand specialty food trade event, the
New York Fancy Food Show. HEPO has twice the presence this year than it did in
2005, with 20 Greek food and beverage companies participating. For us, the NASFT
Show marks the start of a long campaign to bring Greek food and beverages into
the consumer mainstream. We've enlisted New York's top Greek restaurants to par-
ticipate in cooking demonstrations, held on each of the show's three days. They
will work with key Greek ingredients, such as feta cheese, olive oil, olives, spices,
spoon sweets and more, to create dishes both traditional and modern, our mantra
for the promotion of Greek foods and spirits abroad.
But that is just the start. The Fall promises to be busy. Greek food and wine will be
in the limelight with events at the United Nations, a New York restaurant promo-
tion, enhanced retail activity, and a grand wine event in October.
Panagiotis Drossos
CEO
HEPO
5 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
6 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
7 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma FacesKerasma Places1st Quality Greek Food, Wine & SpiritsInternational Conference
8 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
LETTER FROM THE MINISTER OF ECONOMY AND FINANCE,
MR. GEORGE ALOGOSKOUFIS
The products of Greece are unique and rare. Even though Greece is a small coun-
try and its production capabilities relatively limited, the quality of our foods,
wines and spirits is unrivalled and incomparable.
Every region of Greece is unique; the character of each place shapes the character
of the products produced there. In certain parts of the country the climate is dry.
These are the areas where unique aromatic herbs grow, which in turn provide
bees with their nectar. These bees produce the best honey in the world. In other
areas the terrain is rocky. Upon those rocks the sacred olive tree flourishes. It is
from them that the finest olive oil in the world is produced, olive oil that not only
gives food a splendid taste, but is also beneficial to human health. Elsewhere,
the sea's humidity waters the vineyards at night. These vineyards yield limited
quantities of wine, but wine of an outstanding quality. From each island comes a
different wine, each wine has its own aroma, its own flavor, its own hue.
Many of these products have shaped our myths and formed the basis of our tra-
ditions. They are an integral part of our lives and are the heart and soul of this
country.
Socrates said that we do not live to eat, but eat to live. This is indeed true but in
Greece eating is also an important part of living well. The much heralded
Mediterranean diet is no place more prominent than in the Greek diet, and the
Greek diet is synonymous with good health and quality. It is also distinguished
for its rich variety.
The merits of our cuisine are one of the country's greatest assets. We have only
recently begun to recognize and explore the multifaceted ways in which our cui-
sine can be promoted abroad. For example, Greece, with its small-scale farming
and perfect climate, is ideal for organic farming, and we quickly are recognizing
the importance of cultivating ecologically sound food. For us, the significant
potential of organic products produced in Greece adds to the overall leap in qual-
ity the Greek food, wine, and spirits industry has realized over the last few years.
Greek products are universally acknowledged and distinguished for their quality,
and market research indicates that consumers abroad trust Greek products.
9 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
However, for many years our products were not widely available in foreign mar-
kets. In the past, there was little organized political support for Greek products. All
that has changed. The economic potential of Greek cuisine and products has possi-
bilities too vast to ignore.
HEPO has initiated an ambitious campaign to promote Greek products abroad.
This effort is part of a greater plan to expand the horizons of our economy. By
encouraging investment and entrepreneurship we aim to make the most of our
country's comparative advantages. One area we are addressing is the relatively
small size of most Greek companies, which is an obstacle to entering large mar-
kets. The Finance Ministry is giving HEPO more resources to upgrade its institu-
tional framework.
With ever increasing participation in both large and small international and local
exhibitions combined with the active promotion of our products through forums
and other events we can have a dynamic presence in foreign markets. Since we
have restructured our export promotion units we have managed to double our
presence abroad. HEPO has done an outstanding job over the last two years. Two
years ago, we participated in 18 international exhibitions in 2004; in 2005 HEPO
took part in 38.
During the period from 2003 to 2004 there were no business missions abroad. In
2005, 16 business missions abroad were established. For 2006, the main goal of
HEPO is to double its presence in relation to 2005 and within 2 years to triple its
foreign presence.
In Greece, there are many outstanding and reliable companies that produce prod-
ucts of outstanding quality. We motivate them to expand their horizons, to cooper-
ate with foreign firms in order to reach new markets and new heights. One such
program is the έ6 million promotion of Greek olive oil in the USA, Canada, and
Australia cosponsored by the Ministry of Finance and participating companies.
Our commitment is clear: To actively support Greek exports, with decisive plans
and commitment, with intense effort, with modern ideas and methods.
The results of our policy are particularly encouraging. In 2005, exports rose by
13.1% in relation to 2004. In January, they rose by 31.5% in relation to January 2005.
We will continue to strive towards the goals we set before us two years ago and I
am confident that the results will continue to vindicate our endeavors.
George Alogoskoufis
Minister of Economy and Finance
10 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
SUMMER 2006
GreekGourmetravelerGreek Food, Wine & Travel Magazine
Editor-in-ChiefDiane Kochilas
Art Director & Designerk2design
HEPO Liaison Anastasia Garyfallou
ContributorsOrestes Davias, Rachel Howard, Georgia Kofinas,
Konstantinos Lazarakis, Diana Farr Louis,
Constantine Stergides, Daphne Zepos
Contributing Chefs Yiannis Baxevannis, Jim Botsakos, Michael Dotson,
Jodi Elliott, Yiorgos Hatziyiannakis, Nena
Ismirnoglou, Lefteris Lazarou, Dimitris & Mihalis
Mavrikos, Babis Mastoridis, Stelios Parliaros,
Christoforos Peskias, Michael Psilakis, Jonathan
Sawyers, Dimitris Skarmoutsos, Michael Symon,
Christos Valtsoglou, Kostas Vassalos
PhotographyBattman, Yiorgos Dracopoulos, Paul Johnson, John
C. Lei, Constantine Pittas, Monica Ruzansky, Liz
Steger, Vassilis Stenos
Food StylingDawn Brown, Tina Webb
PrintingRed Line
G. Kossyfologos & Associates A.E.
87 Byzantiou Street, Nea Ionia 142 34
ISSN1790-5990
CoverVassilis Stenos
PublisherHellenic Foreign Trade Board
Legal representativePanagiotis Drossos, CEO
Marinou Antipa 86-88
Ilioupoli, 163 46 Athens, Greece
Tel: 00 30 210 998 2100
Fax: 00 30 210 996 9100
http://www.hepo.gr
http://www.kerasma.com
Information and subscriptionGreekGourmetraveler, a publication of the Hellenic
Foreign Trade Board, promotes Greek cuisine, wine,
travel, and culture. The magazine is distributed free
of charge to food-, beverage-, wine-, and travel-
industry professionals.
If you wish to subscribe, visit our website at
www.hepo.gr or www.kerasma.com
Reproduction of articles and photographs No articles, recipes, or photographs published in
the GreekGourmetraveler may be reprinted with-
out permission from the publisher. All rights
reserved. GreekGourmetraveler©Hellenic Foreign
Trade Board.
11 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
LETTER FROM THE EDITOR
Greek summer is a very inviting time of the year: Languid, warm, bright days
inspire Greeks and visitors alike to enjoy all that summer in the heart of the
Mediterranean has to offer, from a little tipple of cool, milky ouzo to a savory island
meze to a luscious piece of summer preserved in the form of spoonfuls of fruit in
syrup.
In this, our third issue of the GreekGourmetraveler, we've lined up some great sum-
mer reads. The issue coincides with the New York Fancy Food Show, but also with
the sudden explosion of haute Greek restaurants in the Big Apple. Greek is hot in
New York right now; in the last three years more than 20 new Greek restaurants,
most of them incredibly designed meccas of much more than moussaka, have
opened their doors. Our intrepid New York correspondent Daphne Zepos peeks into
their pots and dining rooms to see what's cooking in the toughest restaurant city
in the world.
What would a Greek summer be without a Greek peach, plump, juicy, dripping
with honey-sweet nectar. Orestes Davias, our favorite plant guru, dives into the
peach and its lore in Greece, while Georgia Kofinas, a culinary instructor and cook-
book author, recalling the family kitchen rituals of her girlhood in North Carolina,
expounds on the virtues of other sorts of fruit, what the Greeks call glyka tou
koutaliou, a whole range of colorful, seasonal fruits preserved to perfection in
syrup.
Greece in the summer is also about its islands, landscapes as cosmpolitan as
Santorini, as complex as Crete, with a thousand more places in between. We sent
Diana Farr Louis on a journey of rediscovery through Crete, about which she has
written a cookbook; and we asked one of Greece top wine experts, Dino Stergides,
to delve into the unique vineyards of Santorini and write about its national grape,
the intriguing Assyrtico. Finally, we opted to offer up a toast of sorts, to ouzo.
Greece's first Master of Wine, Constantinos Lazarakis, pours forth on the liquorice-
scented aperitif that has become synonymous not only with Greek summer, but
with Greece itself.
All that and more, much more, in the way of recipes for our unique brand of Greek
treats, Kerasma, is what you will find in the summer 2006 issue of the
GreekGourmetraveler.
We hope you enjoy the summer, wherever you are.
Diane Kochilas
Editor-in-Chief
Eat aPeach!
By Orestes Davias
Photography: Vassilis Stenos
Food styling: Dawn Brown
Nothing conveys the seduction of a hot, Greek summer more
than a ripe, succulent Greek peach. The fruit has been endem-
ic to the Mediterranean since time immemorial; ancient
scribes waxed poetic about it. To this day, a juicy, plump Greek
peach—always seasonal, always delicious—is one of the great
pleasures of a Greek summer.
13 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
It's been proven on more than one
occasion that the names chosen by
botanists to christen plants aren't
always accurate. A case in point is
the peach, whose scientific name,
Prunus persica, implies that the
fruit arrived from Persia.
As often happens, the fruit's scien-
tific name, meant to corroborate
information declared by naturalists
of the long lost past, really just per-
petuates a fallacy. In the case of
the peach, Pliny the Elder mistak-
enly pointed to Persia as the
peach's original home. In fact, later
scientific evidence points to the
valleys of western China as the
peach's indigenous home, where it
has been cultivated for at least
5,000 years.
Pliny perhaps was misguided by
the fact that the peach did, indeed,
flourish grandly in the Persia of his
time, so much so that the armies
of Alexander the Great brought the
fruit back with them from their
campaigns. It spread quickly and
easily throughout Greece. Pliny
keenly documents the early trials
and tribulations of peach cultiva-
tion, namely that it failed miser-
ably to flourish both on Rhodes
and in Egypt. In both places it is
simply too hot; the peach tree
requires a few weeks of cold
weather each winter in order to
bloom abundantly. It cannot with-
stand extremes, of cold or heat,
and prolonged frost causes dam-
age.
Although peaches have flourished
in many parts of Greece for millen-
nia, one area in particular is espe-
cially suited to their production—
the northern Greek region of
Macedonia, with its temperate
summers, avid rainfall, and cool,
but not icy cold, winters. The areas
of Pella, Edessa and Pieria in cen-
tral Macedonia are especially well-
known for the quality of their
14 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
The many faces of a Greek peach: Delicious
canned and spooned over Greek yogurt;
excellent in baking; perfect for a composte
flavored with cinnamon and cloves.
15 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
peaches. Each spring, when the
trees flower, their pink and white
blossoms blanket the large stretch
of plain. By June, the first harvest
of Greek peaches begins to arrive in
the market. The fruit ripens slowly
but the harvest lasts all the way
through September, the fruit nour-
ished by the hot Greek summer
sun. Greek peaches are an experi-
ence—plump, juicy, fleshy, and
highly aromatic. They are a favorite
From the 1950s onwards,
peaches have been one of
the agricultural mainstays in
the area, cultivated system-
atically in Northern Greece.
Nectarines arrived later and
gained commercial impor-
tance among growers from
the 1970s onwards.
Most of the peaches grown
commercially in Greece are
yellow-fleshed, although
there are a few white-
fleshed varieties cultivated,
too. In order of commercial
importance, the main table-
fruit varieties cultivated in
Greece are: Red Haven,
Spring Crest, Spring Lady,
June Gold, Flavor Crest,
Maria Bianca, Sun Cloud,
Sun Crest, May Crest, J. H.
Hale, Fayette, and Flaminia.
Other varieties, such as Early
May Crest, Spring Belle,
Royal Glory, and O'Henry are
also cultivated. Among nec-
tarine varieties, the most
commercially important cul-
tivated in Greece are: Stark
Red Gold, Caltesse 2000,
May Grand, Spring Red,
Fantasia, Venus, Sun Free,
Aurelio Grand, Fire Bright,
Adriana, Early Gem, Tasty
Free, and Silver King.
Peaches are the third most
commercially important fruit
export from Greece. The
main variety exported is the
Red Haven. The most impor-
tant markets for fresh Greek
peaches are Holland,
England, Poland, Russia,
Belarus, the Czech Republic,
the Ukraine, Bulgaria, Italy,
Albania, Moldavia, FYROM,
Slovakia and Lithuania.
16 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
fruit among the throngs of tourists
used to the peaches from northern
countries, which crunch like a
cucumber when you bite into them
and have little or no taste. Greek
peaches spill their perfumed juices
into your mouth with the first bite,
and their aroma fills whole rooms.
It's not a coincidence that in Greek
art and poetry, the peach, with its
soft, downy skin and its firm but
succulent flesh, has long been a
symbol of joyous love.
There is, of course, a peach varietiy
that doesn't have a downy skin—the
nectarine, which takes its name
from the Greek word nectar, the
elixir of immortality imbibed by the
gods. Nectarines are one of the
most misunderstood fruits. Many
people think they are a hybrid,
either between peaches and prunes
or peaches and apricots, when, in
fact, they are just another species of
peach, Prunus persica var. nucipersica,
which emerged naturally several
centuries ago in the Mediterranean,
most likely in Italy. Even today,
some peach trees occasionally bear
nectarines, and some nectarine
trees occasionally produce peaches.
There are hundreds of peach vari-
eties worldwide; in Greece about
20 are cultivated, approximately 10
of which are commercially impor-
tant. Peaches can be broken down
as yellow-fleshed and white-
fleshed, that latter of which has an
aroma and flavor so intense they
are among the most sought-after
fruits of the Greek summer.
Peaches are also divided according
to their pips, which are either free-
stone and clingstone. Freestone
peaches are most valued by the
formidable Greek peach canning
industry because of the facility
with which they can be halved and
processed.
No matter the variety, peaches are
relatively fragile fruits that require
care and caution when handling,
packing, and shipping. Even a mat-
ter as seemingly simple as refrigera-
tion becomes decidedly more com-
plicated in the case of the peach.
The fruit absorbs ambient odors
easily and reacts to changes in tem-
perature, so if improperly stored its
own aroma will be compromised,
together with its juicy texture.
Greek peach processors are highly
experienced at treating their treas-
ured fruit properly. Greek peaches
have a revered place on the inter-
national market, both as a fresh
and processed mainly canned—
fruit. The speed with which the
fruit is transported from groves to
processing plants ensures that it is
canned at peak freshness; harvest-
ing techniques and equipment, as
well as processing technology, are
state of the art. Greek processed
peaches come in many forms:
frozen; as juice; halved, quartered,
or diced in syrup; sliced as a fruit
composte; as an ingredient for the
frozen dessert sector, namely in ice
creams and sorbets.
Peaches were once thought to
bestow youth and beauty on those
who savored them. While it would
be hard to verify that scientifically,
it's not at all hard to wax poetic
about the fleshy truth of a good
Greek peach: Full of vitamins and
minerals, succulent and perfumed,
whether fresh or canned, Greek
peaches are among the most deli-
cious fruits in the Mediterranean.
VITAL STATISTICS
437,524 number of square meters devoted to peach and nectarine cultiva-
tion in Greece
769,000 tons of peaches and nectarines produced in 2005
32 percentage consumed fresh
48 percentage processed
103,000 number of tons exported in 2005
28,000 number of tons consumed in 2005 by Russia, the foreign country
with largest consumption of Greek peaches
Orestes Davias is a biologist who loves to cook, eat, and write about all sorts of plants.
Big AppleGreek
In New York,Greek Restaurants are HotBy Daphne Zepos
Photography: Battman, Paul Johnson, John C. Lei,
Monica Ruzansky, Liz Steger, Vassilis Stenos
Parea, Ethos, Onera, Ammos, Thalassa, Pylos, Milos, Avra.
Scanning the list of Greek restaurants in the new 2006 Zagat
Survey, the bible for restaurant goers in New York City, a mul-
titude of names flashes and tugs at my heart. These are signifi-
cant words: Parea means group of friends; Onera, dreams; Ethos,
mores, customs; Ammos, sand; Thalassa, sea, Pylos, clay. All of
them are Freudian enough to appear in my dreams.
19 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
No matter what their names, one
fact stands out: Greek food has
arrived and is being reinterpreted
in the toughest restaurant city in
the world. In the shadow of New
York, other cities are also finding
themselves in the throes of a Greek
restaurant revolution. Boston, San
Francisco, Palo Alto, Los Angeles,
Philadelphia, and Atlanta, among
other places, are the urban venues
in North America where new Greek
restaurants fast are taking root. In
most cases, the new restaurants
weave a tapestry of time-honored
classics with a twist. Greek food is
navigating itself out of the grilled
fish and taverna mode and into the
deeper waters of more adventure-
some dining. Some, like Pylos, have
carved a niche by presenting ele-
gant regional fare. Others, like
Barbouni, which means red mullet
and occupies a huge space in the
chic east 20s, marry Greek tradi-
tions with more international influ-
ences, pairing the hallowed grilled
octopus, for example, with crystal
ginger.
As of this writing, there are more
than 50 Greek restaurants in the
entire city, including the five bor-
oughs. According to Larry Cohen,
an editor at Zagat, at least 13 have
opened in Manhattan alone since
2003. The city's paper of record, The
New York Times, is on the trail. The
Times has awarded five Greek
restaurants with a coveted two
stars and another two with one
star, no small feat in this demand-
ing city of inveterate restaurant
goers.
Restaurants are theatre, and each
restaurant is a manifestation of its
owner's and/or chef 's vision. In the
last few years, the Greek restau-
rant renaissance has seen a resur-
gence of classicism, with tradition
going upscale, away from the tav-
erna mold, in places such as Milos,
Molyvos, and Avra, all tremendous-
ly successful midtown dining mec-
cas. Each has its own recipe for
success, of course, but they repre-
sent the classic mold recast for fine
dining: Milos as the standardbearer
for exquisite grilled fish, with
places like Trata, on the Upper East
Side, and Thalassa, a gorgeous
restaurant in TriBeCa, following
suite; Molyvos for its home-style
Greek fare; and Avra for its pot-
pourri of just about everything
everyone expects in a Greek restau-
rant in a location most operators
would envy, smack in the heart of
major hotels and office towers.
It was inevitable that Greek restau-
rateurs would eventually come to
realize that their native cuisine is
not about only fish, tomatoes,
feta, and lamb. Over the years, as
the restaurant scene heated up,
some sought advice from Greek
food experts of another ilk—cook-
book authors who have combed
the terrain with the scholarly preci-
20 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
sion of culinary anthropologists.
Several Greek restaurants in New
York City, among them Pylos and
Molyvos, have adapted recipes
from their books and tapped into
their considerable wealth of
knowledge of traditional and
regional fare. Molyvos, in mid-
town, broke the mold by building
upon the home-style cooking of
Greece in a warm and friendly set-
ting that looks a lot like a Greek
home, with photographs on every
surface, depicting fiestas and fami-
ly celebrations in Greece. Molyvos
serves Greek bourgeoise cuisine
with its classical and regional roots
still intact. Among my favorite
well-executed classics here is the
Vodino Krassato, a beef short rib
braised in Aghioritico wine, which
has a melt-in-your-mouth texture
and a rich, elusive spiciness.
Pylos, in the more hip East Village,
uses its downtown location and
the poetic license that affords to
build a menu of unusual regional
Greek fare, coupled with a signa-
ture design—the ceiling is covered
with inverted small clay
amphorae—which sparked Frank
Bruni, the New York Times' restau-
rant critic, to call it one of “the pret-
tiest restaurants in the city.”
According to Zagat, it is also among
the top restaurants in the city for
repeat customers. They come for
the unusual renditions of moussa-
ka, with artichokes in spring and
with pumpkin and sweet potato in
autumn; for the Greek-honey-and-
cumin-marinated Cornish game
hens; for the beets layered with
mint-infused feta; and for the
ouzo-spiked chocolate mousse,
playfully named mouzo, among
other signature dishes.
MODERN CLASSICS
The new Greek dining scene is
about both the classic and the
iconoclastic. The newest places,
such Ethos, Ammos, and Kellari,
combine a little of both. Ethos, for
example, opened by two veteran
Manhattan restaurant operators,
got a jolt of authenticity with the
help of another veteran restaura-
teur, Christos Avlonitis, of the clas-
sic Taverna Roumeli in Astoria. He
instructed them on the finer points
of traditional meze, charcoal-
grilled meats (a Taverna Roumeli
special), and grilled whole fish,
which was popular in Astoria long
before crossing the river into
Manhattan kitchens.
At Ammos, the décor aims to cre-
ate a decidedly Greek summer-at-
the-sea feel, a familiar theme han-
dled artfully with mosaics, umbrel-
las, and hand-blown glass. The
chef, Christos Christou, comes
from the Milos-Molyvos fishing
ground, having worked at both
and honed his skills as an expert
grill man for whole-on-the-bone
fish. But the yearning to reach
21 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Opposite page: from left to right, the restau-
rants Barbounia and Thalassa: this page
Pylos restaurant.
beyond the classics appears in
dishes like his sea bass cooked in
clay and another called koupes, a
dish found in Crete and Cyprus
with Middle Eastern overtones
(like the Arabic kibbe). Here the
chef uses crabmeat and lobster in
his bulgur-wheat crust. At Kellari,
another recently opened place on
west 44th Street, the otherwise
classic menu also includes some
novel ideas, like a saganaki tasting
menu, raw tuna meze, melted
goat's cheese specked with
almonds and apricots, and a
braised kid in yogurt.
BREAKING WITH TRADITION
Most excitingly, at least to this
restaurant fan, a spate of places
that consciously break with time-
honored tradition has opened all
across the city. Snack, Parea,
Onera, and Dona lead the pack as
far as adventuresome Greek
and/or Grec-Med food goes.
Snack Taverna, for example, a snap-
py little place in Manhattan's West
Village, grew out of Snack, a hole-
in-the-wall casual Greek place, too
small to even be called a restaurant.
Snack Taverna, though, like Pylos,
reaps the benefits of being in one of
the most vibrant neighborhoods in
the city, a fact that enables it to be
more playful and less tethered to
glories of the past. It was one of the
first restaurants on the scene to
deconstruct the classics and rewrite
scenario of Greek menus. The
restaurant is owned by Greek-
American Elias Varkoutas and Adam
Greene. In the restaurant's Times
review, Eric Asimov wrote about its
“stylish dishes that are presented
with an almost French elegance. It
is not the elemental taverna food…it
is anything but rustic. But it cap-
tures the flavors and spirit that
makes [Greek] dishes so winning.”
Among Snack Taverna's signature
dishes are: grilled octopus with pep-
pers, olives, and radishes, served
with Cretan barley rusks; grilled
Greek sausage with pear and fennel;
and moussaka with ground prunes
instead of ground meat.
The openings continue apace with
Parea, one of the newest restau-
rants as of this writing. The place is
owned in part by Michael Symon, a
culinary wizard from Cleveland
who happens to be part Greek.
Meze is a big part of the menu at
Parea, but so are Symon's unusual
Greek-inspired creations, like
22 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
This page the from left to right: Dona,
Onera, and Thalassa: opposite page: Parea,
Molyvos.
23 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
CLASSIC GLORIES
While Greeks in the New
York restaurant business go
back to the earliest days of
immigration, for decade
upon decade most Greek
restaurants were either din-
ers or tavernas, with stan-
dard menus that seemed to
be the same everywhere.
Greeks branched out and
began opening other restau-
rants. At some point, the
tide began to turn and Greek
restaurateurs began to look
at their own cuisine differ-
ently, as a potentially high-
end cuisine perfectly fit for
fine dining.
No mention of recent Greek
restaurant history could be
made without paying hom-
age to Periyali and its owner,
veteran restaurateur Steve
Tzolis, who was a maverick
on the scene, opening in 1987
what was essentially the
first modern Greek fine din-
ing establishment, a restau-
rant that dared to serve rab-
bit stew and seared quail,
Greek-style with spinach and
feta, in a space that is Greek
by inference but sophisticat-
ed. In the 1980’s and 1990’s,
Periyali was the place to go
for excellent Greek food.
These days, the restaurant
hardly rests on its laurels.
Last year it was awarded
two stars in the New York
Times. Perhaps Periyali is the
best illustration of the time-
lessness-and timeliness—of
Greek cuisine.
As far as mavericks go,
Costas Spiliades owner of
estiatorio Milos certainly
belongs to the club, too.
Milos was the first Greek
restaurant to be housed in
an ultra-modern, sleek
space designed brilliantly
with marble, glass, and
wood to evoke Greek island
simplicity —and light—
without the least hint of
cliché motifs. If Periyali
made it ok to eat rabbit in a
Greek restaurant, Milos
made it sexy to eat fish, per-
fect fish, displayed stunning-
ly on a mountain of crushed
ice, sold whole, by the
pound. Ordering at Milos is
like a ritual: The patron
peruses the fish and makes a
selection. It is weighed, a
price is spoken, and the
patron returns to the table,
sure that he'll be served the
freshest fish in the city. The
restaurant is filled to the
brim at lunch and dinner,
and has a steady fan club of
New York powerbrokers
who pine after the kitchen's
perfect fried vegetables,
poetically simple but exqui-
site grilled fish, and the sig-
nature crabcakes, among
other things. Milos took a
Greek tradition —that of the
fish taverna— and high-
wired it for upscale audi-
ences. In the process, the
restaurant spawned more
than a few imitators. In the
years after it opened several
similar grilled fish places
opened, but none with quite
the same cache.
Daphne Zepos is a cheese importer, consultant, and chef in New York City.
seafood brined with dill, olives, and
red-wine vinegar and lobster dol-
mathes.
HAUTE AND HOT
Arguably, the one New York Greek
chef most ablaze with inspiration
is Michael Psilakis, the owner of
Onera Restaurant, and partner,
together with Donatella Arpaia in
the just-opened Dona. At Onera,
taking a cue from Aegean fisher-
men who long have held a fond-
ness for raw seafood, Psillakis pres-
ents a delicate raw-fish menu. He
offsets the sweetness of a raw scal-
lop, for example, by a yogurt
cucumber sauce and celery leaves;
sea urchin sits on a sliver of earthy
beet; a briny piece of tuna is
touched by a hint of cinnamon.
Psilakis's vision is to create Greek
Haute Cuisine. Haute Cuisine, to
him, is not only about perfection.
It's about references and connec-
tions.
At Dona, he casts his net over a
larger part of the Mediterranean.
Astoundingly, some dishes are
even more recognizable as Greek.
The sea urchin here is adorned
with a puree of fava beans, burata
cheese and caviar. Instead of
sweet, it is salty, with a Greek-cof-
fee note from the fava beans that
makes it magical. The cheese
course is served as a linear succes-
sion of four flavors: sheep's milk
manouri from Crete, toasted fennel
with praline, sour cherry granita,
and a sip of Mavrodaphne (a dark
sweet wine).
Without doubt, the blue-and-
white, cliché-clutching syndrome
is not representative of Greek
restaurants anymore. Today, Greek
restaurants are rich with a glorious
battalion of genuine delicacies that
have been deconstructed or rein-
terpreted. The recognition of a new
cuisine is born slowly, step by step.
Perhaps the only way to get to the
turning point is to be led by true
visionaries. Many of the most pro-
gressive chefs cooking Greek food
today are taking thoughtful risks
with the foods they grew up on.
Perhaps Psillakis put it best. Daily
he questions the nuances between
“Greek-inspired” and “Greek-influ-
enced.” How far, he asks, can you
push Greek cuisine and still be
Greek cuisine?
24 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
This page from left to right: Thalassa, and
Parea: opposite page: Parea.
25 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
26 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
27 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. In a large mixing bowl combine
lemon juice, garlic, mustard, oregano,
salt & pepper. Whisk until combined.
Slowly add olive oil in a stream,
whisking to emulsify.
Reserve about 4 tablespoons as a gar-
nish. Set aside.
2. Placing the scallop on its side, slice
thinly into round wheels. Transfer
slices to a deep container with a lid.
Layer the scallops in the container,
top with a bit of the marinade, and
continue to layer with the remaining
slices and marinade. Cover the scal-
lops with a layer of plastic wrap, place
the lid on the container, and refriger-
ate to marinate for 1/2 hour.
3. To serve, place one scallop on a
spoon. Top with a tad of reserved
lemon marinade, diced olives, and
greens and herbs to garnish. Place the
spoons on a rectangular serving tray,
lined with a cloth napkin to prevent
spoons from sliding. Serve immediately.
**Roasted Garlic Puree: Preheat oven
to 400F (200°C). Slice the top off the
garlic bulb so a bit of the cloves is
exposed. Place the bulb of garlic on a
sheet of tin foil, sprinkle with olive oil
(to moisten), salt, and pepper. Gather
the tin foil around the bulb and twist
at the top to enclose. Bake for 25-30
minutes.
Raw Scallops with Greek Olives and Oregano
Chef Michael Psilakis, Onera and Dona Restaurants, New York City
For 6 servings
3/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp. roasted garlic puree ** see steps below
1 Tbsp. smooth Dijon mustard
1 tsp. Greek oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
1 cup extra-virgin Greek olive oil
6 diver sea scallops, sushi grade quality
10-12 Thassos olives, pitted and finely diced
Microgreens, parsley, or dill chopped finely to garnish
Kerasma New York recipes
28 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Cretan Barley Rusk and Seafood Salad
Chef Jim Botsacos, Molyvos Restaurant, New York City
For 6-8 servings.
1 cup plus 1 Tbsp. Greek extra virgin olive oil
2 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
2 lbs. PEI (Prince Edward Island) mussels, scrubbed and debearded
2 1/2 cups white wine
12 Gulf shrimp (21-25 per pound) peeled and deveined, cut lengthwise
1/2 lb. sea scallops, cut in quarters
1 lb. calamari, clean tubes and cut into 1/4 inch rounds,
tentacles halved
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 cup cracked green Greek olives, pitted and sliced
1 cup celery hearts, thinly sliced
1/2 cup scallions, sliced on the bias
1/4 cup reserved cooking liquid
1/2 tsp. sugar
2 Tbsp. fresh parsley
1 Tbsp. fresh mint
1 Tbsp. fresh dill
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 lb. lump crab meat, picked over
(may substitute pasteurized jumbo lump crab meat)
6 Cretan barley rusks
1. In a large, noncorrosive skillet, heat
1 tablespoon of olive oil over medium-
high heat. Add the shallots and gar-
lic. Cook for 1 minute, add the mussels
and deglaze with the wine. Increase
heat to high, cover, and cook until all
the mussels have steamed open,
about 3-5 minutes.
2. Remove the skillet from the heat
and discard any mussels which did not
open. Transfer the opened mussels to
a baking sheet to cool. Reduce heat to
medium-low and return the skillet to
the stove. Bring the liquid to a simmer.
3. Add the shrimp, scallops, and cala-
mari. Cook for 2-3 minutes or until
translucent. Use a slotted spoon, and
add the seafood to the mussels to cool.
Reserve 1/4 cup of the cooking liquid.
4. Meanwhile, when the mussels are
cool enough to handle, remove the
meat from the shell and discard the
shells.
5. Combine the lemon juice, remaining
olive oil, olives, celery hearts, scallions,
reserved cooking liquid, sugar, and
herbs. Season with salt and pepper,
and lightly whisk to combine.
6. Combine all the seafood and dress-
ing in a large nonreactive bowl. Toss
gently to coat. Cover with plastic
wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 hours
before serving.
7. Set out 6 serving plates. Dip the
rusks in warm water and gently shake
to remove excess liquid. Place one
rusk in the center of each plate. Top
with a generous portion of seafood
salad mixture, allowing the juices to
baste the rusk. Drizzle with olive oil
and garnish with lemon slices if
desired.
29 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma New York recipes
1. Season red mullet with salt and oil.
Sear skin side down on the plati (flat
top) until cooked through.Plate with
tzatziki, torn mint tossed with blood
orange segments, and garnish fish
with sea salt
1. Chiogga Beet Tzatziki Combine all
ingredients, season to taste, and let
marinate overnight. Color of tzatziki
should be light red.
30 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Red Mullet Plati with Beet Tzatziki and Orange
Chef Jonathan Sawyers, Parea Restaurant, New York City
For 1 serving
1 red mullet (scaled, gutted, filleted, pinnboned)
Pinch of Kosher salt
1 tsp. Greek olive oil
1 Tbsp. Chiogga Beet Tzatiki (see recipe below)
3 blood orange segments
1 mint leaf, torn
Sea salt for garnish
Chiogga Beet Tzatziki 1 Chiogga beet (roasted with salt and olive oil and then diced small)
4 cups Greek strained yogurt
Zest and juice from 1 blood orange
Zest and juice from 1 lemon
1 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
2 sprigs dill, minced
Salt and pepper
Kerasma New York recipes
31 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. In a saucepan, dissolve the gelatin
in 1/4 cup cold water. Stir to soften
then heat gently for it to dissolve
completely.
2. Process the strained sour cherries,
sugar, and vanilla at high speed in a
food processor or blender. Add this
mixture to the gelatin and transfer to
a bowl. Mix in the yogurt.
3. Whip the cream with an electric
mixer until stiff and fold it into the
yogurt-cherry mixture. Cover with
plastic wrap and refrigerate for at
least four hours, until firm.
4. Prepare the phyllo: Preheat the oven
to 450 F (220°C). Place two phyllo
sheets on a lightly oiled sheet pan. Cut
into equal size rectangles. Place
another pan on top and bake for about
5-8 minutes, or until golden. Remove
the top sheet pan immediately and let
the phyllo rectangles cool. Repeat until
all the phyllo is used up. Set the pre-
baked phyllo rectangles between layers
of paper towels or parchment and
store in a cool, dry place.
5. To assemble the napoleon: Take
three double rectangles at a time.
Place a teaspoon of the mousse filling
in the center of a serving plate and
place the first phyllo rectangle on top.
Spread a dollop of the yogurt mousse
over it. Place another rectangle over
that, pressing down gently and dollop
some mousse over that, too. Cover
with a third double rectangle. Sift
confectioner's sugar over the top, driz-
zle with sour cherry syrup, and gar-
nish with mint. Serve.
32 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Phyllo Napoleon with Greek Yogurt, and Sour Cherry Spoon Sweet
Chefs Christos Valtsoglou, Diane Kochilas, Pylos Restaurant, New York City
For 8 Servings
2 envelopes powdered unflavored gelatin
2 cups strained sour cherry Greek spoon sweets, syrup reserved
2/3 cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract
2 cups strained Greek yogurt
2 cups heavy cream, whipped
1 packet commercial phyllo, thawed
For garnish Confectioner's sugar
Fresh mint leaves
Sour cherry syrup
Kerasma New York recipes
33 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Lemon Sorbet 2 cups lemon juice
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup water
3 Tbsp. light corn syrup
1. Put the sugar and water in a pot
and bring to a boil. Remove from heat
and add lemon juice and corn syrup.
Stir together then pour into a bowl to
cool. Freeze in an ice cream machine.
1. Brush a mini muffin pan with but-
ter. Take 12 sheets of phyllo dough and
cut them in half. Then take each half
sheet and brush with melted butter,
fold in half, brush with butter again,
then fold in half again, so you have a
small square.
2. Gently place the square inside one of
the muffin cups making sure it comes
up all the sides and has no holes.
Repeat this process until all the cups
are filled. Bake at 325F (165°C) for 10 to
15 minutes or until golden brown.
3. Bring the water and sugar to a boil.
Add the lemon and simmer for 20 - 30
minutes or until it's a syrup consistency.
Place everything into a bowl and
whisk until its all combined. Pour into
a pot and whisk constantly over low
heat until the mixture thickens.
Pour into a bowl and set aside to cool,
then pour into phyllo shells and bake
at 300F (160°C) just until set. Soak
with lemon syrup while still warm.
34 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Milk Pie with Lemon Sorbet and Lemon Marmalade
Parea Restaurant, Pastry Chef Jodi Elliott
For the Phyllo Shells:2 sticks unsalted butter
12 commercial phyllo sheets, thawed
For the Lemon Syrup:1 1/2 cups sugar
2 cups water
1 lemon, quartered
For the filling: 6 cups milk
1/4 cup fine semolina
1 cup sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
7 eggs
1 tsp. vanilla
Zest from 2 lemons
Juice from 1 lemon
Kerasma New York recipes
35 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Meyer Lemon Marmalade24 Meyer lemons
1/2 cup water
1/2 cup sugar
1 Tbsp. pectin
1. Zest 12 lemons with a large zester
(one that produces long, thin ribbons
of zest), then peel them and remove
all the seeds and chop the pulp.
2. Juice the other 12 lemons.
3. Put the zest, pulp, juice, and water
in a pot and simmer, covered for 30
minutes. Mix sugar and pectin togeth-
er. Add to the pot and bring to boil,
making sure all the pectin is dissolved.
Remove from heat and chill
Serve each piece of milk pie with a
dollop of lemon sorbet and a spoonful
of the marmalade.
Ouzo 101 Greece's National Drink is a Way of Life
By Konstantinos Lazarakis M.W.
Photography: Vassilis Stenos
Food styling: Dawn Brown
For us Greeks, ouzo is the elixir that makes all of life's caprices
a bit more pleasant to deal with. Our relief button is a phrase
we use often to confront challenges of every sort: Pame gia
ouzaki. Translation: Let's go for a little ouzo.
37 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
It's no secret that the anise-fla-
vored liqueur is our national drink,
but its place in Greek culture goes
far beyond mere potent tipple.
Ouzo runs through our DNA, part
and parcel of our lifestyle, of how
we socialize and share experiences
with friends and family. Greeks
have a relationship to their nation-
al drink most foreigners don't
grasp, at least upon first sip.
Ironically, however, our national
spirit has a complex history. While
Greeks have been making and
enjoying wine for millennia, the art
of distillation is much newer. For
years, in fact, it was the domain of
small numbers of Greeks,
Armenians, Turks, and others, who
lived side by side in the multiethnic
enclaves of Asia Minor (present day
Turkey), especially in regions along
the Aegean and Black Sea coasts.
Wine had always been made in
these regions, but sometime dur-
ing the 18th century some local
winemakers began to look to
wine's by-products—skins, pips,
stems, pommace, and must—as a
source for producing other bever-
ages. They used the residuals of
winemaking in the still, making
spirits that are with us to this day,
among them the Greek raki,
tsipouro, and tsikoudia. The Italian
grappa is a similar spirit, in other
words a grape marc distillate.
These are all drinks that evince the
innate sense of economy in
Mediterrranean households, where
nothing is ever wasted.
Ouzo evolved out of these early
distillations. Within the Greek com-
munities, people began to look
beyond the grape for the raw
ingredients that could be turned
into suitable distillations. They
began experimenting with other
fruits and grains. Then, politics and
war changed the course of ouzo's
early history. The political and
38 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Ouzo is never served
alone, but always is
accompanied by
mezedes—small,
varied plates of food.
social upheavals of the early part of
the 20th century forced millions of
Greeks living in Turkey to flee. Most
settled en masse in specific areas
of Greece, and many of these
areas, such as Mytilene, the capital
of Lesvos, Tyrnavo, on the Greek
mainland, and Thessaloniki, the
capital of Macedonia, became cen-
ters for ouzo production.
The Asia Minor Greek refugees
brought with them minimum pos-
sessions, a rich, urbane cuisine,
and the knowledge of distillation.
One of the indispensable things
many refugees carried with them
into Greece was their copper, belly-
shaped still. Thanks to them,
moussaka, now the Greek national
dish, arrived on the Greek main-
land, and so did the country's
national drink, ouzo.
THE ART OF OUZO PRODUCTION
Ouzo production is far from simple,
and producers fiercely debate the
details necessary to make the best
possible spirit.
From a commercial and production
point of view, ouzo has a distinct
advantage over other grape distil-
lates because many of the raw
ingredients needed to prepare it
are available year round. By law
ouzo must be distilled from a mini-
mum of 30% grape residuals; the
rest can be distilled from other
fruits, grains, and potatoes. In the
case of tsipouro, tsikoudia, grappa,
raki, arak, and other purely grape
distillates, the production cycle is
restricted to within a few weeks
after the grape harvest because
that is when the raw material is
both at its prime and available.
Therefore, all stock has to be pro-
duced once a year and suffice for
the year's anticipated needs.
Supplies cannot be replenished
until the following harvest. That's
not so with ouzo.
39 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
The production process starts with
a high strength spirit —very pure
alcohol, obtained by the distillation
of agricultural products. The high
degree of alcoholic purity, however,
means that this pure spirit is neu-
tral. That is why it needs aromat-
ics, and therein lies the art of ouzo
production.
Once the pure alcohol has been
obtained, the producer selects a
range of aromatic seeds and grains
which he macerates in the alcohol
in order to extract all the aromas
and flavors that give ouzo its final
character. The main flavor compo-
nent is anise, which provides the
core of ouzo's aromatic expression.
Even choosing anise is not an easy
task, since there are a number of
different spices with similar aro-
mas, such as star anise, aniseed,
and fennel seed. Their flavor
nuances change not only according
to type but also according to the
spice's age, the degree to which
the spice is dried, the quantities
used, etc. The final taste is the
result of many details: at what
stage the spices are added;
whether everything is macerated
together or separately; and the
length of maceration.
While anise is the basis of ouzo's
flavor, a great deal of ouzo's distinc-
tiveness comes from the skill and
creativity the master distiller who
uses a range of other herbs and
spices. Coriander seeds, fennel
seeds, rosemary, even cloves, are
among some of the other spices in
a typical ouzo recipe. Each producer
40 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Anise provides the
core of ouzo’s aro-
matic expression.
has his secret recipe, but there are
also regional schools of thought.
On the island of Chios, for example,
where the mastic tree flourishes,
ouzo producers spike their mixture
with the crystal resin, something
that adds a distinct, incense-like
aroma to the drink. It is another fla-
vor dimension altogether.
After the seeds and other flavoring
agents macerate in the alcohol,
which can take anywhere from 24
hours to a few days, producers each
have their own distillation tech-
niques. Some, for example, distill
just a portion of the flavored alco-
hol, in order to refine its character;
others opt for the costly process of
distilling the whole amount of
infused alcohol. Most top quality
producers go for 100% distilled
ouzo, which has great finesse. After
the production of ouzo is complet-
ed, the resulting distillate is too
high in alcohol to consume. For
that reason, the ouzo distillate is
broken down with water, which
must be demineralized.
The style of ouzo is purely a matter
of the producer's preferences. Some
ouzos are very sweet; these have
been flavored with an additional
sweetening agent, such as sugar
syrup. Typically, more commercial
brands tend to be sweeter, while
smaller, more artisanal producers
tend to make ouzo that is dry.
WHY OUZO TURNS WHITE
The bottling strength of ouzo,
which is essentially its alcoholic
content after water has been
added, is also very important. The
alcohol content not only affects the
taste but also the tax on the drink—
one reason why higher alcohol-con-
tent drinks are available in duty-
free shops. Most producers aim for
alcohol content close to the 40%
mark; most ouzo falls within a
range of 38% to 42%. There is a
niche market for ouzo with greater
alcoholic purity; some go as high as
46%. I have seen ouzo with a 59%
alcohol content. There are even a
few connoisseurs who seek out the
rare bottlings most distillers keep
for their private use, a spirit the
Greeks call ouzo apostagma, the
purest form of ouzo, very close to
cask-strength whiskey. These are
generally not for sale.
Alcoholic strength is a lot more
important in ouzo than in most
other alcoholic beverages for one
reason: The maceration of aniseed
produces an extract called anithol,
the chemical compounds of which
remain unaffected in any water-
alcohol solution higher than 38%.
But if the solution is diluted to less
than 38%, anithol causes the liquid
to turn white. That's how ouzo
gets its milky haze whenever ice or
water is added.
SERVING RITUALS
Appearance and color notwith-
standing, alcoholic strength influ-
ences the flavor profile of a spirit as
well as the ease with which it is
consumed. In the case of ouzo,
consumption is almost a ritual, like
the Japanese tea ceremony. But
with ouzo, it is the very potent
nature of the drink which directly
affects how it is served. Ouzo is
always served in a small carafe,
with ice and water on the side, so
that each person can do what he
likes with it. One never pours an
ouzo for someone else, for exam-
ple, because each individual prefers
to drink it a particular way. Some
like it straight up; others on the
rocks; others on the rocks and
watered down together; others
with just a few cubes of ice, which
affect the temperature but also
slow down the speed with which it
is imbibed. People relax as the ice
slowly melts and the spirit dilutes.
The diehard like ouzo in a shot
glass, the better to enjoy it in one
felt swoop; others want a tall
glass, in order to weaken it with
lots of water, which helps liberate
the aromatic nuances and implies
that the drink be sipped and
savored slowly.
THE OUZO-MEZE CONNECTION
Ouzo never is served alone, but
always is accompanied by food,
usually mezedes (small plates).
Matching ouzo with food is an art.
Typically, when serving ouzo, there
is usually some kind of succession,
a natural order from the lightest
flavors to the strongest, from dry
treats like olives or salted fish to
rich dishes with piquant sauces.
The easy, mild mezedes arrive first.
The array progresses with each
round, so that more robust flavors,
such as hot, salty, or brined foods,
are served later. With those first,
mild, dishes, most people enjoy a
cold and rather diluted ouzo, but
41 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Wine consultant and writer Konstantinos Lazarakis became Greece's first Master of Wine in
2002. His book, The Wines of Greece, Mitchell Beazley, London, was short-listed for the
Andre Simon Memorial Award in 2006.
as the meal progresses the drink is
replenished and diluted less and
less. Intensity of flavors rather than
volume on the palate is more
important then.
By tradition, Greeks dine commu-
nally, from shared platters the con-
tents of which each person spoons
onto his plate. Individually plated
meals are new affectations on the
Greek table. Greeks like the ample
feeling that family-style dining cre-
ates; for the cook, the range is
meant to illustrate the care and
trouble he or she has taken to sat-
isfy and honor each guest. Around
a table, people are free to take
what they like instead of having a
rigorous course-by-course meal
imposed upon them.
Ouzo is meant to match with the
whole gamut of flavors presented
but also to cleanse the palate after
each robust mouthful. I like to
think of it as a palate rebooter!
One highly respected producer
explained the method to the mad-
ness. Everything that swims is an
easy match for ouzo, while every-
thing that walks or crawls is better
off with pure grape-based spirits.
The simplest meze usually suffice.
A few olives, some pickled vegeta-
bles, a lightly salted tomato wedge
or cucumber slice, a cube of sharp
cheese, or a strip of salted anchovy
on bread are among the simplest
accompaniments to ouzo. But I've
seen retired sea captains congre-
gate near the port of Piraeus and
savor their ouzo with a piece of
blue cheese, and I've been in small
cafeneia in the Mani, in the south-
ern Peloponnese, where the meze
of choice is nothing more than a
handful of roasted chickpeas. In
Kalamata, people slip a strip of
pastelli, a sweet sesame brittle,
into their ouzo. On the island of
Kalymnos, one finds something
called ouzohtapodo, a skewer of
grilled octopus dipped into a water
glass filled with the milky-white
drink.
As a general rule when matching
food to ouzo, the drink's high alco-
holic content acts the way acidity
works when pairing wine and food.
The drink can cut through the oili-
ness of many dishes, which is one
reason why many mezedes for
ouzo are fried. Fried small fish and
shellfish are especially popular.
Ouzo also complements foods that
have a high acidity content, such
as tomato-based dishes. It works
very well with salty foods, hence
the penchant for salted fish, olives,
and pickles. What it doesn't go well
with are starchy foods like pota-
toes, pasta, and rice, most meats,
mild cheeses, and sweets,
although in the last few years chefs
have been experimenting with
ouzo in syrups, especially with
poached fruits and mild cheeses.
To savor an ouzo, an array of
mezedes is necessary, but that isn't
the only component in the drink's
ritualistic imbibing. One needs first
and foremost to relax with it, to
take in the sunshine, literally and
figuratively. If you happen to be
near the sea on a typical Greek
summer day, and if you happen to
be with a group of people near and
dear, all the better. That way, with
one sip you're bound to see that
ouzo is more than a drink. It's a
whole experience.
42 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
43 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
45 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Farmingthe Sea Greek Mariculture Thrives
Images of Greece inevitably bring to mind the sea. Leathery-
faced fishermen still ply the Aegean in their colorful caiques,
and rugged spearfishermen can still be seen with a freshly
caught octopus in hand, battering it to tenderize it along one
of the country's seemingly endless coastlines. Greeks have
always had a symbiotic relationship with the sea that sur-
rounds them. It is no surprise then that Greeks should also be
at the forefront of fish farming.
By Rachel Howard
Photography: Vassilis Stenos
Consumer demand for seafood
never seems to slow down, but
overfishing and other industrial
practices have depleted wild fish
supplies all over the world. The
United Nations Food and
Agriculture Organization predicts
that by 2030, global fish consump-
tion will rise 25% to 160 million tons
a year. Yet, for fishing to be sustain-
able, it should not exceed 100 mil-
lion tons annually. Consequently,
aquaculture is set to grow seven-
fold in the next 25 years.
In the European Union (EU) alone,
farmed fish has more than doubled
in the last 20 years. The EU sup-
ports sustainable aquaculture as a
means to replenish natural stocks
and supplement the struggling
fishing trade. Greece has been one
of the leading beneficiaries of this
policy. Thanks to generous EU sub-
sidies and visionary Greek entepre-
neurs, the number of fish farms in
Greece rose from 12 in 1985 to 290
in 2005. With annual production of
around 100,000 tons, according to
the Greek Mariculture Federation,
and sales turnover of 460 million
Euros, mariculture is now the
country's second biggest export
sector. Greece is the world's lead-
ing exporter of Mediterranean sea
bream and sea bass, whose short
production cycles are ideal for
farming in Greek waters.
Akis Ventiris, General Manager of
the Greek Mariculture Federation,
attributes this remarkable growth
to two factors: Greece's natural
environment and seafaring history.
“Greeks have always taken full
advantage of the sea,” Ventiris
explains. “With its long coastline,
strong currents, and sheltered
coves, the Aegean is ideal for fish
farming. And we don't have major
46 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
industrialization, so our seas aren't
polluted.”
Some 10,000 people are directly or
indirectly employed in the aquacul-
ture sector, which has boosted
outlying regions and barren islands
once threatened by depopulation
and unemployment. For example,
the staff at Cephalonia Fisheries,
one of Greece's first fish farms, are
all former fishermen, none of
whom were interested in seasonal
work in tourism, the other major
employer on the island. Since fish
farms require deep waters, rather
than the sandy beaches preferred
by tourists, the two industries are
compatible. And as Lara Barazi-
Yeroulanou, CEO of Cephalonia
Fisheries, points out: “Tourism has
a permanent impact on the coastal
environment. We can just pick up
our cages and go.”
Like Cephalonia Fisheries, most
Greek aquaculture companies
started as small, family-run busi-
nesses. Almost all produce was
sold to Italy. Now, with supermar-
kets demanding a steady supply of
large quantities at lower prices,
many small farmers cannot com-
pete in the global market. The
industry has stabilized and consoli-
dated through acquisitions and
mergers by conglomerates. Most
Greek farmed fish is sold in the
European Union, the United
States, and Canada. Other emerg-
ing markets are Eastern Europe
and Japan; the domestic market
accounts for about 25% of sales.
Greek entrepreneurs are also
exporting their expertise to the
Middle East and Eastern Asia.
Seven Greek aquaculture compa-
nies are listed on the Athens Stock
Exchange, including market lead-
ers Nireas and Selonda.
47 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Greece is the world’s
leading exporter of
Mediterranean sea
bream and sea bass.
“Since I started working here in
1990, the sector has changed dras-
tically,” says Yannis Tsimiklis, man-
ager of the sea bass farm at
Selonda Bay, near ancient
Epidaurus in the Peloponnese,
which I visited recently. The farm
employs 110 staff, which is less
than most other operations,
because it is highly automated,
and produces around 3,000 tons of
fish a year. “Production units are
more sophisticated and automat-
ed, which makes our job less labor
intensive.
THE PROCESS
In Greece, because the marine
environment is so conducive to
farming, the aquaculture industry
works harmoniously with the nat-
ural life-cycles of the fish. Breeding
stock are genetically selected (but
never genetically modified) based
on their fertility, resistance to ill-
ness, and development rate.
Broodstock are left to mate natu-
rally, in darkened tanks filled with
filtered water. This is standard
practice in Greece.
In humid hatcheries, the larvae are
fed plankton, cultured in bubbling
green sacks, which give the water
a murky tinge. As we approach the
tanks, the tiny silver creatures
scramble to the surface, expecting
food. “We feed them as much as
they can eat,” says Tsimiklis. “They
grow fast, eight to nine percent a
day, so there's no need for hor-
mones.” All fish feed is highly regu-
lated to EU standards. Bigger fish
are fed powdered fish meal,
derived from fast-growing, short-
lived species, combined with vita-
mins and minerals. “You can't avoid
feeding fish to fish, because that's
their natural diet,” says John
Sweetman, an international aqua-
culture consultant based in Greece.
“But sustainability requires us to
look at incorporating vegetable
protein replacements like soya into
fish meal.”
Before the fish are transferred to
'ongrowing' tanks, they are vacci-
nated, one by one, manually,
against the most common diseases,
vibriosis and pasteurellosis.
“Stressed fish are more prone to ill-
ness and high mortality rates, so we
do everything we can not to stress
them out,” says Selonda's hatchery
48 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
manager, Andonis Kollis. (Stress can
be caused by sudden changes in the
temperature or salinity of water, by
changes in oxygen levels, or by noise
levels, so these factors are carefully
regulated when handling or trans-
porting the fish. The aim is to
ensure that the whole farming
process is as close as possible to the
fish’s natural environment.)
Next, the fish are screened by the
histopathology, bacteriology, and
parasitology laboratories, where
any 'faulty' specimens, such as fish
with twisted spines or other skeletal
abnormalities, are removed. The use
of medicines has been drastically
reduced in Greece, to less than
0.5%. In those rare instances, fish
are thoroughly tested to ensure all
active compounds have disappeared
before the fish are sold.
After about 120 days, the fish are
transferred to sea cages equipped
with remote control feeding sys-
tems. Workers in orange water-
proofs cruise the circular cages,
under the hopeful gaze of hungry
seagulls. After 16 to 18 months, the
fish are ready for consumption—
only a few months earlier than wild
fish would be. They are shocked in
near freezing water, then immedi-
ately packed in ice and shipped
abroad. In the packaging unit,
women in white rubber uniforms
work a clattering conveyer belt that
can pack 2.5 tons of fish per hour. It
works like a giant pinball machine:
Fish are slammed into slots accord-
ing to weight and packed in
Styrofoam crates that go straight
into refrigerated trucks, reaching
the table within 12-48 hours.
SUPERVISED FOR HEALTHFULNESS
“Farmed fish is the perfect food,”
Barazi-Yeroulanou maintains.
“Unlike wild fish, which are of
unknown provenance, our fish are
raised in a regulated environment,
under expert supervision, with the
strictest quality specifications. So
it's the safest fish you can eat, pro-
vided the farm is correctly run.”
From a nutritional perspective, fish
is an excellent source of protein and
unsaturated fatty acids, which help
the heart and immune system, and
selenium, a powerful antioxidant.
At about 4.5 euros a kilo, whole-
sale, at the time of this writing,
farmed fish is also cheap compared
49 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Rachel Howard is a freelance journalist whose work has appeared in National Geographic
Traveler and other major British and American magazines.
to other quality food products. “A
kilo of sea bass is cheaper than an
espresso these days,” says Ventiris.
In the face of falling prices and
international competition, Greek
producers are developing new
species like turbot, blue-fin tuna,
and octopus, as well as improving
processing facilities for smoked,
canned, and filleted fish.
IN TUNE WITH THE ENVIRONMENT
Aquaculturists have to contend
with environmental campaigners,
who call for stricter controls. Issues
include stock density, fish escapes,
and the sediment caused by accu-
mulated residues on the seabed.
However, since modern fish feed is
more digestible, such by-products
are becoming less and less of an
issue; rotating cages and leaving
them 'fallow' can also solve the
problem. “Studies have shown that
pollution caused by fish farms is
negligible in comparison to pollu-
tants in the sea from industrial
activities on land or even from the
use of the sea for swimming,”
Ventiris asserts. “Anyway, if cages
are moved, the marine environ-
ment is completely rehabilitated
within months.”
Environmentalists' reticence about
the ecological viability of fish farms
stems largely from the irresponsible
practices of the first salmon farmers
in Norway back in the 1960s. But
the industry has made radical
progress since then, and Sweetman
is keen to set the record straight:
“The fish farming industry is rela-
tively new, so from the start it has
been regulated much more strin-
gently than animal or crop farming.”
To further tighten up regulations,
avoid over-fishing, and stabilize
prices, the EU has stopped issuing
new licenses. Transparency, trace-
ability, quality, and sustainability are
major concerns for the future of the
industry. But as Barazi-Yeroulanou
concludes: “Farming the sea is much
better than killing it off.”
50 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
51 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
53 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Wines froma Volcano Santorini's Assyrtico Wines Combine High Acidity with High Alcohol
If there were a vintage of Santorini sunlight it would be made with
the island's most famous grape, the Assyrtico. Assyrtico, the quin-
tessential Greek white wine grape, has always been identified with
Santorini, and Santorini has always been identified with wine.
By Constantine Stergides
Photography: Vassilis Stenos,
Constantine Pittas
The island is arguably one of the
strangest places on earth. A magi-
cal, earthquake-prone, active vol-
cano with sunsets made for
Hollywood, Santorini attracts hun-
dreds of thousands of tourists but
also is home to some of Greece's
most indelible gastronomic and
viticultural traditions. Some of
Greece's best tomatoes are grown
here; the yellow split pea reaches
extraordinary heights of flavor and
creaminess thanks to Santorini's
unique terrain; but it is the grape
that has mostly made its mark on
the chalk-earthed island slopes.
Although Santorini is host to a
number of indigenous Greek grape
varietals, including Athiri, Aidani,
and Mavrotragano, the Assyrtico
reigns supreme. It occupies about
70% of a total vineyard area of
1,400 hectares (3,459 acres). In the
spring and summer, the island is a
gorgeous juxtaposition of Aegean
postcard blue-and-white and the
green of all its vineyards.
The Greek summer is kind to
Assyrtico. The variety adores bright
sunshine, never scarce in this part
of the world; exposed to enough of
it, Assyrtico's alcohol content can
skyrocket well past 15 percent,
while at the same time its acidity
levels remain abnormally high.
Most grapes, of course, tend to lose
acidity as their sugar content
increases; Assyrtico is thus a viticul-
tural aberration. As a result, wines
made with Assyrtico are blessed
with a rather rare combination of
high natural acidity and high alco-
hol content. They possess excellent
aging capabilities in both oak casks
and bottles.
Before the advent of modern wine-
making techniques, islanders tradi-
tionally kept their hefty Assyrtico
wines for over a year in huge
2,000-liter casks called afoures,
which were stored underground in
cellars called canaves, dug into the
soft volcanic rock that makes up
most of the island's terroir. Wood-
aging, especially in such a tradi-
tional way, gave Santorini's
Assyrtico wines a certain rustic
quality. The wines traditionally
were heavy in alcohol, slightly oxi-
dized, almost like sherry, but they
lacked what in contemporary
winespeak is called “fruit.” For
decades they were shipped off to
54 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Athens and used to fortify blends,
or sold off as nondescript bulk
wines in local tavernas.
That all began to change about 20
years ago. In the late 1980s and
early 1990s, a new generation of
French-educated oenologists
arrived on the scene to court revo-
lution in the Greek vineyard. In the
summer of 1990, the local
Santorini cooperative hired one
such young gun, an oenologist
freshly graduated from the
University of Bordeaux. He was full
of novel ideas, and it did not take
him long to convince the coopera-
tive's management, including the
leading grape growers of the
island, that the future of wine
belonged to fruit and acidity.
The first experimental harvest took
place in an isolated village in the
southern part of Santorini. The
growers were asked to harvest
their white grapes in the beginning
of August, a good 10 days earlier
than usual. The early harvest was
crucial to the success of the experi-
ment, for the customary over-
ripening of grapes made it impossi-
ble to vinify in an international
style, as all the primary aromas of
the Assyrtico were lost in favor of
alcoholic strength. The resulting
experimental wine was, indeed,
excellent: fresh and fruity, a defi-
nite departure from the conven-
tional tastes of the island. It was
duly saluted by the small —in those
days— circle of Athenian wine con-
noisseurs.
But the island's farmers had a dif-
ferent perspective after that first
harvest and the story is wrought
with more than a dose of irony. The
oenologist, brimming with pride,
went back after the vinification to
visit the villagers who had partici-
pated in the experiment. He want-
ed to thank them. But they were
livid. It has always been customary
on Santorini, right after the har-
vest, for shepherds to herd their
goats in the vineyards. So, having
seen the harvest take place, the
local goat-herders did just that,
without realizing that only the
white grapes had been harvested.
As a result, their animals feasted
on a few tons of late-ripening red
grapes, decimating about one third
of that year's vintage, and of
course the farmers' livelihood!
55 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
These days, however, goats, farm-
ers, and proud oenologists all exist
in harmony. Santorini is invariably
the region in Greece that harvests
earliest in the year. Ultimately sci-
ence triumphed over tradition, so
much so that the island's wine
industry has advanced by leaps and
bounds. The number of wineries
has doubled to 10 since 1990 and,
most importantly, Santorini wines
are winning critical accolades as
well as medals in international
wine competitions.
Assyrtico's rise is timely.
Sophisticated wine connoisseurs,
who once lauded fruit as the ulti-
mate measure of a wine's quality,
now tout minerality as the be-all
and end-all of a good wine. A few
years ago, wine gurus declared the
Riesling grape the world's most
interesting varietal, and since then
there has been a concerted effort
among global producers to emulate
Riesling's mineral taste. Assyrtico
achieves that effortlessly. Well,
almost. It possesses innate miner-
ality thanks to the soil from which
it grows, but also combines that
with lovely, juicy fruit. The
renowned British master of wine,
Jancis Robinson, has waxed poetic
about Santorini wines in more than
a few of the columns she writes
each week in the Financial Times.
56 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
HOMES AWAY FROM HOME
Assyrtico's success on its native
Santorini, and the exquisite wines
that began to evolve as a result,
sparked interest in the grape
among winemakers all over
Greece. Indeed, Santorini's
Assyrtico is poised to catch the
attention of international wine
makers sooner or later, predicts
Yiannis Koulelis, a respected oenol-
ogist who has worked on the
island with the Boutaris family and
is now marketing the Sigala Estate
wines. “Mark my words, in a few
years we'll be seeing plantings of
Assyrtico in the U.S. and Australia”,
he says.
The truth is Assyrtico is a grape
that easily adapts to different soils
and climates. Within the span of a
decade, as Greek winemakers saw
its potential in Santorini flourish,
the highly versatile grape found
new homes. It was planted in
Attica, outside of Athens, the tradi-
tional terrain for the Savatiano and
Roditis varietals, grapes notoriously
lacking in acidity. Assyrtico provid-
ed a much-needed balance in new
blends, and those first results out-
side its native soil were encourag-
ing, even memorable.
Next, winemakers in the northern
Peloponnese, who were looking for
a suitable white grape variety to
complement their Nemea red wine
production, began experimenting
with Assyrtico. There, the results
were even better; the Assyrtico pro-
duces elegant, highly aromatic
wines in the northern Peloponnese.
But it is in northern Greece where
the Assyrtico truly has found a sec-
ond home, almost on a par with
Santorini. Although it is seldom
bottled on its own, it is used in
numerous blends with Sauvignon
Blanc, Semillon, and the native
Greek Roditis, and Malagouzia, to
mention but a few, invariably with
excellent results. These are fruit-
driven wines with intense aromas,
meatiness, and fat mouth feel that
have been picking up prizes in
international wine competitions.
After more than 20 years of avid
experimentation with the
Assyrtico, most Greek winemakers
would probably agree that the vari-
etal is the premiere white vinis
vinifera grape in Greece. It has the
ability to combine warmth with
freshness (in other words, alcohol
with acidity) in a unique way, but
mainly it is one of those rare grapes
that is a perfect vector of its terroir.
An experienced taster can easily
identify Assyrtico wines from differ-
ent Greek regions because they are
all so unique. In the Pelponnese and
other areas of southern mainland
Greece, wines have a more
Mediterranean style, with a distinc-
tive freshly-cut-hay aroma on the
nose and a full body on the mouth
that can hold its own against some
of the cuisine's richest dishes, such
as moussaka. In northern Greece,
especially in the Halkidiki and
Drama areas, Assyrtico wines are
more flowery and almost citrus-fla-
vored, with a very high-brow, linear,
almost angular attitude in the
mouth. These are perfect with cer-
tain types of fish, especially the gilt-
head bream.
57 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
NATIVE GROUND
But for all its chameleon-like
adaptability, Assyrtico reaches the
full glories of its potential only on
Santorini, the grape's undisputed
natural home. To say that the
Assyrtico has adapted well to
Santorini's ecosystem is to under-
estimate millions of years of geolo-
gy and 3,000 years of wine-mak-
ing on the island. If there ever was
a place that illustrated the famous
French notion of terroir, certainly
Santorini is such a place.
The island is windswept and dry.
The soil is a combination of hard,
black volcanic rock and flaky white
chalk, allowing the vine's roots to
go deep into the earth in search of
moisture. However, contrary to
most other places on earth,
Santorini’s vines don't get their
water from currents deep under
the earth's surface. Instead, their
leaves absorb the moisture that
gathers on the ground during the
night as seawater from the Caldera
(the volcano's ring) evaporates. The
island's grape growers have coun-
tered the effects of wind and fleet-
ing moisture by developing a com-
pletely unique way to prune their
vines: Santorini's grapevines are
traditionally pruned low, almost to
the ground, and trained into bas-
ket-like cylinders so that the
grapes grow on the inside, protect-
ed. In the last few years, a few vint-
ners have started experimenting
with vertical plantings, too, but
tradition still runs deep for most.
Nowhere else in Greece does the
Assyrtico grape produce wines of
such extreme sensations. A well-
made Assyrtico from Santorini
manages to combine power with
finesse, fruit with dryness, fresh-
ness with complexity. Most of all,
there in the backround, lurks an
unmistakable minerality, as if
someone squeezed the essence out
of Santorini's black volcanic peb-
bles and poured it drop by drop
into the wine.
Such is the versatility of this
grape, that it can produce all sorts
of exciting wines: youthful, tank-
fermented whites, ideal as an
aperitif as one gazes into the sun-
set from the cliffs of Ia; full-bod-
ied, oak-fermented whites, with
excellent aging capabilities,
superb companions of many tradi-
tional island dishes, such as
creamy yellow split peas (fava),
salted fish, and eggplant; high-
alcohol, full-bodied, tank-fer-
mented and cask aged whites,
called Nychteri, in the traditional,
58 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
slightly oxidized style. Last but
not least there is the famous
Vinsanto, a luscious sweet wine,
made from sun-dried grapes and
aged by law for at least three
years. A good Vinsanto, however,
can easily age for more than 100
years. Vinsanto wines (the name
means “wine from Santorini” and
not “holy wine,” as in the case of
the similarly named vinosanto
from Italy) have a caramel- and
toffeelike aspect, with a dried-
fruit dimension that makes them
great partners to all sorts of
sweets, especially chocolate. But
what is really unique about
Vinsanto goes back to the individ-
uality of the Assyrtico grape to
begin with. In comparison to
other sweet Greek wines,
Santorini's Vinsanto wines have a
characteristic freshness, thanks to
all that natural Assyrtico acidity.
ENDANGERED SPECIES?
For many years now, wine experts
from Athens and wine growers on
Santorini itself have agonized over
the island's skyrocketing real
estate prices, which are putting
pressure on a lot of farmers to sell
or develop their land. Some vine-
yards have been transformed into
hotels and housing, and the
island's younger generation is loath
to work in the fields, preferring
cozier jobs in the tourist industry.
However despite widespread fears
that Santorini's vineyard might end
up a victim of the island's tourist
success, the truth is that both its
wines and its wine makers are
flourishing like never before. The
Assyrtico, together with other
Santorini wines, is gaining interna-
tional recognition and financial
success. The wine list at Alain
Ducasse in Paris, for example, lists
one Santorini label. The price per
kilo of grapes seems to be on a
never-ending upward spiral.
Its wineries have proven more than
capable of living up to the task that
success and recognition bring.
They are developing distinct styles,
and demand for the island's wines
has never been stronger, both in
Greece and abroad. The wines' suc-
cess story has also helped spawn a
vibrant regional food renaissance.
All of the island's top restaurants
now have dishes specially designed
to go with the whole range of
Santorini wines.
Great wine, great local food, and
great sunsets—Santorini has man-
aged to make its Assyrtico wines as
unique as the island itself.
59 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Constantine Stergides is the president of the Circle of Greek Wine Writers and the publisher of
Ambelotopi, a monthly Greek newspaper for wine professionals.
61 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Spoonfuls ofHospitality
Greek Spoon Sweets Return to the Plate
When I was growing up in North Carolina, there were count-
less times throughout the year when a seductive aroma would
beckon me to the kitchen. There, I'd find my mother and aunts
huddled over steaming pots of fruit sputtering in syrup. They
were making spoon sweets, the colorful preserves of fruits,
nuts, and some vegetables put up in sugar syrup, which to this
day are age-old hallmarks of Greek hospitality.
By Georgia Kofinas
Photography: Vassilis Stenos
Food Styling: Dawn Brown
If it was late winter, there'd be a
batch of orange peels on the
table—scraped, boiled, and rinsed
enough times to leech out their
bitterness. Someone would
inevitably be rolling the peels,
someone else securing the rolls
with light cotton thread to keep
them closed while they simmered
in the thick, sweet liquid. If it was
early summer, strawberries, apri-
cots, and cherries would be the
fruits of choice; later, watermelons
would be trimmed for their rind,
another popular Greek spoon
sweet; then it would be plums and
figs. Every time of year had—and
has—its specialties.
Throughout the year, my mother's
kitchen was overtaken by the
women in the family upholding this
age-old Greek tradition. Spoon
sweets were considered a must for
any proper Greek household. It was
a ritual exclusively administered by
experienced women; the younger
girls were only allowed to learn
through observation until we were
old enough to help. But the sweets
were something every good little
Greek girl had to know to be a suc-
cessful housewife. Their prepara-
tion is traditionally women's
domain; men were not allowed in.
Even my father, a chef, was banned!
In retrospect the whole process
was not only a way of passing on a
tradition but also of learning com-
munity spirit and sharing, a time
for mothers to bond with their
daughters and to impose upon
them the rituals hospitality and of
serving guests, so important to
Greek culture everywhere in the
world. To this day, for example,
special plates, usually small and of
clear glass, are the tableware of
choice for serving a spoon full of
fruit or nut preserves. A glass of
cold water is always served with
the sweets. The cutlery for spoon
sweets also is fine and delicate.
Among the Greek communities of
Asia Minor (present-day Turkey),
for example, each home had a spe-
cial glass serving set, from which
hung small silver spoons. The guest
would take a spoonful of the sweet
and place the used spoon in a spe-
cial tray.
These rituals became indelible
stamps upon my memory. Years
later, married and living in Greece, I
realized, ironically, that my rela-
tionship to spoon sweets wasn't
much appreciated by my urban
contemporaries. Friends teased me
for being old-fashioned whenever I
served my own homemade spoon
62 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
The variety of spoon sweets is impressive. From Left to right: sour cherry, orange rind, cherries,
green figs, golden raisins, and quince.
sweets. In Athens during the 1970s,
when I was a young housewife,
“modern,” sweets were more fash-
ionable. I'd be served American-
style cheesecake and laugh to
myself that I'd come all the way to
Greece for something I grew up on
in the South. My image, though, of
those traditional, beautifully col-
ored confections refused to be
thwarted; for me, spoon sweets
and Greek hospitality go together.
REGIONAL SPECIALTIES
Spoon sweets are made all over
Greece, but each region has its spe-
cialties basically depending on
what grows best from place to
place. The island of Chios, in the
eastern Aegean, is especially known
for its large variety of spoon
sweets, among them grapes, figs,
and citrus fruits. Their production,
in fact, has become a large com-
mercial enterprise on the island.
Other islands have their own spe-
cialties, too. Andros is known for its
unique lemon and orange blossom
preserves; in Santorini, a traditional
center for tomato cultivation,
home cooks put up the small,
whole pomodoro tomatoes in
syrup and season them with a little
cinnamon and whole blanched
almonds; on the remote island of
Ikaria, walnuts and sour cherries
are local specialties; in Crete, raisin
and grape spoon sweets prevail; in
Aegina, immature pistachios, are
preserved when their shells are still
soft; in the Peloponnese, citrus
peels and fruits—lemon peel,
orange and bitter orange peel, cit-
ron, and bergamot rind as well as
whole, unripe, green oranges and
whole bitter oranges—are the
regional specialties; Mt. Pelion in
Thessaly is known for its small
apple preserves, called firikia; west-
ern Macedonia specializes in water-
melon and winter squash rind.
In the 30 years that I have lived in
Greece, I've had wonderful experi-
ences sampling some truly unusual
spoon sweets, mainly in country-
side kitchens and in monasteries.
Once in Kos, I was treated to the
local island specialty, tomato spoon
sweets made with whole
pomodoro tomatoes. Just as I
learned the art from my mother, so
did the young girl I watched in that
island kitchen learn the skill from
her mother. Even the little ones
knew just how to poke their fingers
into the tiny slits to remove the
seeds just before soaking the toma-
toes in lime water, a technique
used for many of the softer fruits.
63 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
(The slaked lime mixture helps to
firm up the fruits' flesh, making
them more durable to withstand
the simmering heat of the syrup.)
MONASTERIES AND SPOON SWEETS
Without doubt, the most impor-
tant sanctuaries for the preserva-
tion of the spoon sweet tradition
are Greece's many monasteries. In
both men's monasteries and con-
vents, spoon sweets are the symbol
of hospitality, offered to visitors
immediately upon their arrival. In
men's monasteries, the sweets are
often, but not always, store-
bought. At least one men's
monastery, Taxiarchon, dedicated
the Holy Angels, in the northern
Peloponnese, is famous for its rose
petal spoon sweet, an exotic,
extremely aromatic confection that
the monks make each June from a
particular species of rose cultivated
on the monastery's grounds. It is, in
fact, an important source of
income to the monastery; they sell
kilos of it to upscale markets
around the country.
In convents, nuns usually prepare a
wide variety of spoon sweets each
season. One of the most unique
spoon sweets I have ever tasted
was at the Chrysopigi Monastery
in Chania, Crete. It was an ingen-
ious preparation of coarsely grated
potatoes laced with vanilla, one
more indication that the variety of
these sweets is endless.
NEW, UNIVERSAL USES
As a culinary instructor at a profes-
sional cooking school here in
Greece, where I teach Traditional
Greek Cuisine and Food Culture, I
have found myself on a personal
campaign to promote the versatili-
ty and delectability of spoon
sweets among my students. After
all, these are the country's future
chefs, and my hope is to see my
students not only uphold tradition
but learn to work with the basics
of their native cuisine in new and
unusual ways. Spoon sweets,
besides being more healthful than
other, cream- and butter-based
confections (at least there are
nutrients from the fruit), are visual-
ly appealing, unique, and extreme-
ly versatile.
In my own classes we experiment
with spoon sweets as an accom-
64 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
65 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
66 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
paniment to puddings, mousses,
and custards; as a garnish over
yogurt or ice cream; with halvah, a
semolina-based confection; as fill-
ings in phyllo and other pastries;
in tarts and tortes; and, most
delectably, over cheesecake,
American and other. There is, in
fact, at least one recipe for tradi-
tional Greek cheesecake enriched
with a luscious topping of spoon
sweets; sour cherry and citrus peel
sweets go quite well with cheese.
Some spoon sweets even lend
themselves to savory dishes.
Preserved sour cherries and their
syrup, for example, are an excel-
lent accompaniment to grilled
duck.
It does take time and patience to
make spoon sweets, so it is no sur-
prise that their preparation is usu-
ally women's work. But women
have gone professional, too. All
over Greece, there are dozens of
women's cooperatives that prepare
the sweets and sell them both
locally and nationally. On the
island of Lesvos alone there are 16
such coops.
Commercial food companies at
both the regional and national lev-
els have also developed a range of
spoon sweets, hoping to exploit
the potential these confections
have in both the modern Greek and
international kitchens. Quality
control and savvy marketing have
helped revive the sweets, but so
has the trend, in Greece and else-
where, toward real food, authen-
tic, traditional dishes that have a
point of reference but, even more
important, universal value. The
sweets that I recall so fondly as a
girl have come full circle. I have
never stopped making them, and I
will never stop serving them, tradi-
tionally, in delicate glass dishes
with dainty spoons and a cool
glass of water nearby.
Spoon sweets are
uniquely Greek, visu-
ally appealing, and
tremendously versa-
tile.
67 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
A LITTLE HISTORY
My own research into the
subject taught me that the
combination of nuts, fruits,
and a sweetening agent is
one that Greeks always seem
to have savored. The ancient
Greeks certainly had a fond-
ness for such combinations.
For them, honey and grape
molasses—petimezi—were
the sweeteners of necessity.
The ancient Greeks knew of
sugar; according to the 1st-
century physician
Dioscorides it was called
Indian salt, after its country-
of origin. Bt it was almost
priceless and used medicinal-
ly. Sugar slowly made its way
from India, via Persia, into
what is today the Middle
East. In the 4th century B.C.
the armies of Alexander the
Great brought sugar back
with them from their cam-
paigns in India. Of course,
sugar was rare and dear,
something only the rich
could contemplate; it wasn't
until the Moors introduced
sugarcane to Crete in the
10th century that sugar
started to make its way into
the prosaic kitchen. Even
that took centuries, though,
as sugar was still a very
expensive commodity. It
wasn't until the discovery of
the New World, when the
Europeans began planting
sugarcane in the colonies,
that we see its widespread
use. By the 16th century,
sugar consumption was
common throughout
Europe.
Greeks, proud and chauvinis-
tic when it comes to their
culinary heritage, like to
believe that spoon sweets
were first created in Greece
and are exclusively a Greek
tradition. Nobody really
knows just how or where the
idea of putting fruit up in
syrup first took root. The
practice of combining fruit
with sweet liquids like honey
or petimezi is something
mentioned in early Greek,
Roman, and Byzantine liter-
ature. Whatever the origins
of the confection might be,
however, spoon sweets
found their place in the
Greek kitchen. Certainly the
earliest modern Greek cook-
books expound on the sub-
ject with detailed recipes for
dozens of different such pre-
serves.
Georgia Kofinas is a cookbook author and culinary arts instructor at
Alpine Center, a private hotel and tourism management school in
Greece.
68 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
CreteMemories of a Cookbook Writer
The Island is Rich in Food Lore,Recipes, and Great Products
By Diana Farr Louis
Photography: Vassilis Stenos
I'd been to Crete often as a tourist.
I had driven from east coast to
west and up and down its moun-
tains. Along the way I'd stopped to
sunbathe on its beaches, investi-
gate Minoan ruins, trace the ram-
parts of its walled Venetian cities,
listen to mournful lyra players and
sip raki under a mulberry tree with
mustachioed old-timers wearing
floppy breeches and shiny black
boots. But it wasn't until I started
researching a cookbook and seek-
ing out little known recipes that I
realized I barely knew the place.
Crete, the Mediterranean's fifth
largest island, is roughly the same
size as New York's Long Island,
where I grew up. But with four lofty
mountain ranges and more than
4,000 years of history, it boasts a
continent's worth of diversity. Over
the long centuries, foreign invaders
like the Romans, Arabs, Byzantines,
Venetians, and Turks rarely pene-
trated beyond the north coast.
Today's tourists, following their
example, mostly cling to the resorts
and hotels that line the shore in an
almost unbroken chain of develop-
ment from Kastelli in the west to
Agios Nikolaos in the east. They
rarely suspect that behind this
façade of modernity lurks a wealth
of customs and traditions barely
touched by the 20th century.
My first glimmer of this other
world came when an acquaintance
in Heraklio sent me to her god-
mother in Arkalohori, a village hid-
den among olive groves and vine-
yards about an hour's drive to the
south. Well into her eighties but
more energetic than the average
teenager, this paragon of healthy
living filled my ears with unconven-
tional cooking techniques: “To
make tomato paste, you'll have to
strain the pulp through an old pil-
lowcase.” Eftyhia also inducted me
into the secrets of successful tra-
hana—xinohondro to the Cretans—a
rustic pasta made from crushed
wheat and buttermilk, that is a
70 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Some typical Cretan delicacies (from left to right): Xerotygana, crisp, deep-fried dough twirls
drizzled with the island's legendary honey and nuts; xinohondros, a deliciously creamy and tart
pasta; paximadia, or rusks. Opposite page: Cretan olives and raki and wild artichokes, one of
the many vegetables islanders cook with skill.
staple in the Balkans, Turkey, and
Armenia. “Add the wheat and stir
with a pastry rolling pole until the
pole stands upright by itself. The
next day spread handfuls of the
thick porridge on sheets to dry in
the hot July sun. It lasts forever,
softens up in soups and gives them
a wonderful, tangy taste.” When I
took my leave, Eftyhia gave me a
jar of tomato paste and a sack full
of xinohondro, each piece about
the size of her small fist.
After that my quest pulled me fur-
ther and further off the beaten
path to villages that rarely merited
a line in a guidebook and could
often be found on only the most
71 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
THE CRETAN DIET
After World War II, when
US scientists “discovered”
the Mediterranean Diet,
they were surprised to
find that the “starving”
Cretans were almost 100
percent healthier than
the supposedly well-
nourished Americans.
They had subsisted on
greens gathered from
fields and mountains,
cooked with what
appeared to be extrava-
gant amounts of olive
oil; bread or rusks made
of unrefined wheat and
bran flour; snails; wal-
nuts; honey; goat or
sheep's cheese; practi-
cally no red meat but
daily doses of wine or
grappa-like raki. In fact,
apart from the cheese,
their diet resembled the
strict regime of the
Orthodox fasts that still
dictates what true
believers should eat for
about half the year.
Even in times of plenty,
Cretans were frugal but
imaginative. Not having
much meat, poultry, or
seafood to nourish their
large families, they
invented delicious stews
padded with garden veg-
etables or their beloved
spiny artichokes, greens,
and herbs, especially
mint. Vegetables used as
wraps or containers for
small amounts of meat
and rice or bulgur wheat
also appear in various
guises. As for sweets,
these are healthy too;
often consisting of pas-
tries made with olive oil
rather than butter, and
filled with nuts, raisins,
citrus peel, and honey,
and only rarely contain-
ing dairy products or
eggs.
detailed of maps. My travels fol-
lowed no predictable pattern, but
resembled more a treasure hunt
built on a few introductions to
friends of friends, chance conversa-
tions, and a string of coincidences.
I discovered that asking questions
about food seemed to open all
doors and that sitting in kitchens
could elicit hours of stories, not to
mention delicious and surprising
impromptu meals.
In the course of my month-long
visits to the island, conducted over
three years, I must have eaten my
weight in flour. This is because a
Cretan housewife, rather than
offering guests a spoonful of sweet
preserves and a cup of Greek coffee
like her mainland counterpart,
prefers to show off her pie-making
skills. Time and again, my hostess
would sit me down in the kitchen
while she reached into the freezer
and in minutes produced a frying
pan full of tiny pies hardly larger
than ravioli. She would ladle them
onto my plate and watch eagerly
as I bit through the crisp, paper-
thin wrapping into a luscious
cheese or delicate spinach filling
and smacked my lips approvingly.
But Cretan pies come in almost as
many shapes, types, and flavors as
there are Cretan cooks and one
evening, in the village of
Piskokefalo near Siteia, my tasting
capacity was sorely tested.
There, as a consequence of watch-
ing Georgia Vassilaki prepare
piroshki, sarikopittes (coiled like a
sultan's turban), pancake-like ner-
ates, baked cheese packets called
kaltsounia, and another phyllo
classic layered with greens, plus
walnut cake, I waddled away like a
fattened goose. It was hardly a bal-
anced meal, but as she cooked, she
told me about growing up with a
thousand sheep but no shoes and
about her father, who slept out-
doors with his flock for 40 years
and died at 100 without ever hav-
ing seen a doctor. Even today,
Georgia and her husband Iosif live
off the land, producing their own
olive oil, raisins, wine, and vegeta-
bles, while acquiring cheese from a
shepherd who rents their pastures.
At the other end of Crete, in the
mountain district of Sfakia, I met
another piemaker with stories. Sifis
Karkanis has a roadside taverna in
Askyfou, halfway between Hora
Sfakion and Vrysses. Most of the
traffic consists of busloads of
trekkers exhausted from hiking
down the Samaria Gorge. They
have no inkling that this smattering
72 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
From left to right: Hania, with one of the prettiest harbors in Greece; Greek Easter in a Cretan
church; the Monastery of Arkadiou.
of houses in the high plateau con-
ceals a few bakeries famed among
cognoscenti for the best paximadia
or rusks on the island. While rusks
are to be found all over Greece, they
reach the summit of flavor and vari-
ety in Crete. In fact, many Cretans
prefer them to fresh bread. Here in
Askyfou, you can sample rusks
kneaded with every conceivable
type of flour from white “luxury” to
barley laced with coarse strands of
bran. Sweet rusks, on the other
hand, come in dozens of tastes,
from aniseed and coriander to
orange juice and mastic.
But back to Sifis, who keeps a
ready supply of Sfakian pies in his
freezer. Hellishly difficult to repro-
duce, they resemble very thin,
almost crepe-like flat breads into
which cheese has been folded. The
dough is soft and malleable. The
pastries are fried like a pancake in a
dry pan, and drizzled with honey.
While we gobbled them up, the
former shepherd told of his early
experiments with cooking: of
roasting a piece of meat between
two hot stones, of simmering a
stew in a German soldier's helmet
for want of a pot, and of kouzina
ananghis — the cuisine of necessity
— when the only ingredients were
potatoes, rice, and a dollop of
cream saved from the milking.
To this day, the cuisine of necessity
crops up all over Crete. In
Margarites, one of the Rethymno
area's most charming villages, it
presented itself in the form of
pumpkin savoro or pumpkin fried
and seasoned with vinegar, rose-
mary, and black currants in a man-
ner usually reserved for leftover
fish. With its mingling of sweet and
sour, the original recipe harks back
to Byzantine times or even earlier
and also exists in Venice (as saor).
Many of Crete's small villages
would never merit a postcard. As if
not daring to compete with the
island's stunning landscapes, they
are often collections of architec-
turally plain buildings, their only
redeeming features the fiery gera-
niums and amaryllis trumpets that
blaze from rusty oil tins set on a
cement balcony. But Margarites
has doors and windows that glow
like sapphires and emeralds framed
by gentle stone arches and lintels,
partly camouflaged by thick green-
ery. It also boasts a venerable pot-
tery tradition, kept alive by two
men who still use a foot-propelled
potter's wheel and bring clay on
donkey back from the riverbed.
You never can tell what you might
73 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
find in these villages. Near Skotino,
inland from the beach resort at
Gournes not far from Heraklio, I
tunneled 230 steep meters below
the earth into a cave where
Minoans worshipped the Mother
Goddess long before Zeus was a
gleam in Cronos's eye. But in
October this bland hamlet swims
in a Dionysian haze. This is raki-
making season and all over Crete
villagers with the coveted permits
clean out their basements, polish
their stills and cauldrons, and
stoke the fires to distill the potent
eau de vie from the pips and skins
left from pressing September's
grapes into wine. “Cauldroning” as
it is called usually turns into a
party with classic dishes such as
roasted whole potatoes drizzled
with sea salt and olive oil and pork
chops roasted in embers, both
hearty enough fare to mitigate the
effects of imbibing phenomenal
amounts of fire water.
Mochlos is the exception to the
rule that an unspoiled village must
be inland. Yellow fishing nets
mounded on the rocks, small fish-
ing boats bobbing off a simple
jetty, a few tavernas jostling for
customers — Mochlos lies at the
bottom of a narrow road that hur-
tles down the cliffside between
Agios Nikolaos and Siteia. For
years it has sheltered teams of
archaeologists excavating a
Minoan cemetery on Louse islet
offshore, and for years Marika
Petraki has been feeding them at
the taverna named after her
daughter, Sophia. One day she
shared her recipes for stuffed veg-
etables using the typically eastern
Cretan seasonings of mint and
cumin and the special omelette
she bakes for the archaeologists
with 25 eggs and a kilo of zucchini,
potatoes, and tomatoes.
But it was in Zakros that I had my
fullest introduction to the inner life
of a Cretan village. I'd spent the
evening at Kato Zakros, a crescent
74 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
of tavernas and rooms on the black
pebbled beach near the ruins of the
easternmost Minoan palace.
Hearing of my search for recipes,
one of the taverna owners told me
to speak to his mother, Mary
Daskalaki, in the upper village the
next day.
Mary, a slim woman with a fund of
knowledge, obligingly rattled off
recipes and tales of life before the
1960s when the arrival of electricity
and automobiles disrupted the
close-knit community. But then
she showed me that it still existed
by taking me to a shed at the edge
of town. There a half dozen men
and women were preparing a feast
for a christening party that
evening. In the community
kitchen, a feature of many Cretan
villages, friends and relatives help
wedding and baptism hosts by
cooking for as many as 2,000
guests. The men were standing
over a vast cauldron in which three
yearling sheep were becoming
stock for the piece de resistance,
creamy, succulent plates full of
either macaroni if you are in
Eastern Crete, or rice in the West.
The rich, stock-infused pasta or rice
pilaffs are served at all Cretan fes-
tivities. The women, on the other
hand, were making salads, pies,
dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) and
omathies — a nubbly pork liver
sausage filled with rice, raisins,
walnuts, orange peel, cinnamon,
and sugar that has its origins in the
Byzantine era.
Mary had to join them but sent me
several houses away to where her
sister's family was baking bread in
an outdoor oven. I peeked into the
courtyard and was greeted like a
long-lost friend. Unfortunately, the
40 loaves had just gone into the
soot-blackened oven; kneading 30
kilos of flour into that much dough
sounded like a Herculean feat. But
Alexandra and her son's in-laws
invited me to wait with them until
they were done. They baked this
75 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
76 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
CRETAN CHEESES
All Cretan cheeses are made
from either sheep's or goat's
milk or a combination of
both. Here's a short list:
Graviera: Perhaps the most
famous of Crete's cheeses,
this local adaption of gruyere
is made of unpasteurized
sheep's milk. The wheels,
which range from one to 25
kilos (2 to 50 lbs.), no longer
taste anything like the Swiss
prototype. Cretan graviera
ranges from sweet, when
young, to nutty and reso-
nant, when aged.
Kefalograviera: Harder and
more piquant than graviera,
this is a table cheese that is
often also used in baked
dishes like pastitsio and
moussaka.
Myzithra: This is a fresh
whey cheese, relatively low
in fat, and similar to ricotta.
It is used as filling in all types
of Cretan pies, whether fried
or baked, sweet or savory.
Dried in large balls, it is pop-
ular grating cheese.
Xynomyzithra: A cheese
unique to Crete, this “sour”
whey cheese is salted, grainy
rather than creamy, and is
aged for two months before
eating. With its dry, tangy
taste, it is a favorite meze
with ouzo or raki, while
baked into a pie, it becomes
sweeter.
Staka: This cholesterol-rich
delicacy is found only in
western Crete. It is prepared
THE CRETAN LARDER
Paximadia (rusks):
Twice-baked breads have been
around since Roman times,
but in Crete they are both sta-
ple and luxury. Made of every
conceivable type of flour from
refined white to coarse wheat
and barley, they accompany
every meal, crumbled into sal-
ads or springing up in sauces.
Smaller sweet rusks flavored
with coriander, cloves, and
mastic were such a delicacy
they were served at wed-
dings until recently. Studded
with nuts or currants, sea-
soned with juices and spices,
they are still served with cof-
fee, herbal teas, or raki at
any time of day.
CRETAN OLIVES
Two favorite eating olives
are Neratzates — green olives
soaked in brine and then fla-
vored with bitter orange
juice and the tiny black
Psirolia or Psiloelia, hardly
bigger than a coffee bean.
Surprisingly, they also pro-
duce lots of oil.
77 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
from the cream skimmed off
the top of sheep's milk and
then simmered with a pinch
of salt and some flour until it
separates into clarified but-
ter (stakovoutiro) and a yel-
lowy substance that resem-
bles clotted cream or crème
fraiche. The former is used to
flavor festive dishes such as
wedding pilaf; the latter may
be spread on bread like a soft
cheese or used to fry eggs.
Snails: The Cretans probably
eat more snails than the
French (to whom they
export them). Plucked from
a bush or bought from the
market, they need to be
purged before cooking with
flour, dried pasta, or fresh
herbs. They are rich in bene-
ficial omega 3 fatty acids and
appear in dozens of recipes.
Among the most common
are boubouristous fried and
seasoned with rosemary and
vinegar, or stewed with
cracked wheat (hondros) or
trahana (xinohondros).
Hondros & Xinohondros:
Though trahana exists
throughout the Balkans and
Middle East, only in Crete is
it made with cracked wheat
(in lieu of flour or bulgur).
The slightly sour (xino), pun-
gent flavor comes from the
addition of buttermilk or
intentionally soured milk.
Possibly the oldest form of
pasta, it was an ingenious
way of combining wheat and
dairy into an easily trans-
portable food that never
spoils. Just boil it with a little
water and you have a nour-
ishing, tasty soup.
Olive oil: The Cretans con-
sume more olive oil than any
other people, including
mainland Greeks. The island
also produces more extra vir-
gin oil than anywhere else in
the country and much of it is
organic. At least 9 districts
have been awarded the cov-
eted POP (Protected
Appellation of Origin) desig-
nation by the European
Union.
Horta (wild greens): Even
though Cretans ate little else
during the Second World
War, they still have a passion
for wild greens. The island is
said to have as many as 300
edible weeds, which range
from the ordinary dandelion
to the exotic askrolymbros, a
thistly root in the salsify
family that commands a
higher price than filet
mignon in the market.
Cretan cooks bring enor-
mous imagination to their
greens dishes, balancing the
intensity of sweet and sour
or bitter, and combining
them with everything from
lamb and rabbit to fish and
octopus. Greens often turn
up in pies and even raw in
salads, a practice unusual in
the rest of Greece.
Meat: When Cretans want to
celebrate, they roast or boil a
young goat or sheep. The idea
of eating a sirloin steak rarely
if ever crosses their mind, and
few beef or dairy cattle are
raised on the island. On the
other hand, pork is wide-
spread, and in the old days
even the poorest rural house-
hold lived off sausages,
smoked filets, and other cuts
from the family pig.
Wine & Raki: Cretans love to
drink and many families
keep a barrel of homemade
amber-colored wine in their
storerooms. But commercial
wineries are beginning to
make a name for them-
selves, with crisp whites
from Siteia and deep reds
from Archanes/Peza the
most distinctive. But if you
go to Crete, no matter what
time of day or season, you'll
be just as likely to see small
groups of men sipping shot
glasses of clear, potent raki,
distilled from grape skins
and pips.
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quantity every month, but most of
the loaves would be broken into
thick slices and returned to the
cooling oven for 24 hours until they
became rock-hard rusks, paximadia,
that are among the island's most
traditional foods.
We talked and joked for more than
an hour before Irini, a 70-some-
thing dynamo, split the loaves with
her strong hands and Alexandra
and Irini's husband, Yannis, shov-
eled them back into the oven's dark
mouth. I tried to say goodbye, but
Alexandra grasped my arm and
walked me to their house for
lunch. Over fresh bread, roast
chicken, salads, plenty of home-
made wine, and much laughter,
Yannis and Irini started to remi-
nisce — about the war, walking to
Siteia with loaded mules, and
about the time he kidnapped her.
Bride stealing is still a common
practice in Crete, usually a conspir-
acy of the willing whose eagerness
to marry may thwart their parents'
plans. Too poor to abduct her on
horseback, Yannis had carried Irini
piggyback across a river to a cave
where they spent the night. “We
came back the very next morning
but by then there was nothing to
argue about.”
It was evening before the party
ended and I departed, showered
with kisses and gifts of bread, raki,
and raisins. Glowing from a surfeit
of well-being, I thought how decep-
tive these Cretan villages are. As
long as I was intent on mere sight-
seeing, I'd passed through them
with barely a second glance. But by
welcoming me into their kitchens,
the men and women who lived in
them continually added unexpect-
ed dimensions to the notion of hos-
pitality. They also reminded me that
sitting around a table sharing food
and experiences is one of the bless-
ings life has to bestow.
Crete ona Plate Home Cooking andRestaurant Recipes
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Photography: Vassilis Stenos
Food Styling: Dawn Brown
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Cretan Barley Rusk Meze
Adapted from Feasting and Fasting in Crete, Delicious Mediterranean Recipes,
by Diana Farr Louis (Kedros, Athens, 2001).
For 1-2 servings
1 large barley or whole wheat rusk
2 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil
1 large tomato (or 2 smaller ones), chopped
1 Tbsp. myzithra cheese or soft, mild feta
1 tsp. oregano or marjoram
Sprinkle the rusk on both sides with
water from the tap to soften it a bit.
Pour 1 tablespoon of the oil over it, then
add the chopped tomato and the
remaining oil, the cheese crumbled on
top, the herbs, and some salt and pep-
per. Serve immediately.
Kerasma Cretan recipes
Cretan Inspired Rusk Salad
Chef Dimitris Skarmoutsos, formerly of Nychterida, now at Alatsi in Athens
2 cups each of Romaine, lamb's lettuce and mâche
1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
2/3 cup mild, soft, unsalted sheep's milk cheese
4 Tbsp. pomegranate seeds
2 Tbsp. lemon juice
Greek extra-virgin olive oil to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
2 Cretan barley rusks
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Kerasma Cretan recipes
1. Trim and coarsely tear the lettuces.
Toss with the cherry tomatoes. Add
the cheese in spoonfuls or cubes. Mix
all the ingredients in a serving bowl
together with the rusks.
2. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon
juice, salt, and pepper. Drizzle over
salad and garnish with pomegranate.
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Miniature Greens Pies
Adapted from Feasting and Fasting in Crete, Delicious Mediterranean Recipes,
by Diana Farr Louis (Kedros, Athens, 2001).
For 30 pieces
For the pastry:140 grams (1 cup) all purpose flour, sifted with 1/4 tsp. salt
2 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
80 to 120 ml (1/3-1/2 cup) tepid water
Spinach filling: 1/2 kg. (1 lb.) spinach, washed and trimmed
250 gr. (8 oz.) chard, washed and trimmed
3 spring onions, finely chopped
1/2 cup finely chopped wild fennel leaves or bulb fennel tips
(or, if unavailable, dill)
2 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. cumin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
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Kerasma Cretan recipes
1. Make a well in the flour, fill it with
the olive oil, lemon juice, and some of
the water. Stir with your hands,
adding water gradually, and knead
until you have a tough dough. Cover
with cellophane wrap and set aside
for 30 minutes or more.
2. Boil the spinach and chard in lots of
water until tender. Drain thoroughly
and when cool enough to handle,
squeeze out as much water as you
can.
3. Chop finely (do not process), includ-
ing stalks.
4. In the meantime, sauté the chopped
onion and fennel leaves in the olive oil
until the onions are soft and the fen-
nel wilted. Then mix all the vegetables
together in a bowl and season to taste
with salt, pepper, and cumin.
5. Roll out the dough as thin as you
can. Cut into rectangles about 5 x 10
cm 2 x 4 inches. Put a tablespoonful of
filling onto one half of the square, fold
over and pinch the sides to seal (mois-
tening your index finger with water
and running it around the edge will
help) or press with a fork. When you
have finished, you can either freeze
the pies or fry them in hot oil and
serve immediately.
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Kerasma Cretan recipes
1. Marinate the rabbit for a few hours
or overnight in the wine, bay leaves,
cinnamon, cloves, and peppercorns.
2. Remove the meat from the mari-
nade, dry it, and reserve the liquid.
Strain the spices and set aside. Brown
the meat in a few tablespoons of hot
oil, along with the spices, bay leaves
and oregano. Reduce the heat to a
simmer and cook until the rabbit is
tender.
3. When the rabbit is cooked, remove
it from the pan, add 240 ml (1 cup) of
the marinade and, scraping up the
pan juices and bits and pieces, reduce
it until you have a thick syrupy sauce.
Pour it over the rabbit and serve.
Sfakian Fried Rabbit
Adapted from Feasting and Fasting in Crete, Delicious Mediterranean Recipes,
by Diana Farr Louis (Kedros, Athens, 2001).
For 4 servings
1 rabbit, cut in serving portions
480 ml (2 cups) red, white, or rose wine
2 bay leaves
1 cinnamon stick
3-4 cloves
5-6 whole black peppercorns
1 tsp. Greek dried oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Olive oil for frying
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Raisin Cake
Adapted from Feasting and Fasting in Crete, Delicious Mediterranean Recipes,
by Diana Farr Louis (Kedros, Athens, 2001).
Makes 8 servings
300 grams (11 oz.) golden raisins
60 ml (1/4 cup) raki or brandy
About 420 grams (3 cups) all purpose flour
1/2 tsp. ground cloves
1 tsp. ground cinnamon
220 ml (1 cup) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
200 grams (1 cup) sugar
110 ml (1/2 cup) fresh orange juice
1 Tbsp. baking soda, dissolved in the orange juice
Grated peel of one orange
110 ml (1/2 cup) Seltzer water
150 grams (1 cup) chopped walnuts (optional)
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Kerasma Cretan recipes
1. Preheat the oven to 190°C (375 F).
2. Soak the raisins in the alcohol for
about 10 minutes and then process
the miature in the food processor.
3. Sift the flour and spices together
into a bowl. In a separate, larger
bowl, using an electric mixer, beat
together the olive oil and sugar until
creamy and slowly add the orange
juice along with the grated peel,
seltzer water, brandy-soaked raisins
and chopped walnuts. Stir in the flour,
a little at a time, until you have a
thick batter.
4. Slide it into a lightly oiled spring-
form cake pan (24 cm/ 9 1/2 inches in
diameter) and bake for about 1 hour.
Cool and serve.
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Zuccini and Cretan Cheese Pie with Nigella Seeds
Nychterida Restaurant, Akrotiri, Crete, Chef-owner Babis Mastoridis
2 kg. (4 1/2 lbs.) zucchini
4 medium potatoes, peeled and thinly slices
2 kg. (4 1/2 lbs.) soft goat or sheep's milk cheese
300 gr. (10 oz.) feta cheese
2 chopped tomatoes
2 Tbs. chopped fresh mint
1 cup Greek extra-virgin olive oil
1 tsp. sesame seeds
1 tsp. nigella seeds
Salt and pepper
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Kerasma Cretan recipes
1. Thinly slice the zucchini. Place in a
colander in layers, sprinkling each
layer with salt. Let drain for several
hours.
2. Mix the drained zucchini with the
thinly sliced potatoes in a large bowl.
Add the tomatoes.
3. Lightly oil a large baking dish.
Spread one layer of potatoes on bot-
tom of pan. Spread soft cheese on top.
Cover with a layer of zucchini. Sift a
thin layer of flour over the mixture
and spread a little of mint and cheese.
Repeat the procedure. Spread a final
layer of cheese. Sprinkle the sesame
on the top of the dish. Cook in a medi-
um oven at 350F (170°C) for one and a
half hours. Let cool slightly and serve.
93 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma Summerin the Kitchen
Menus and Recipes from Greek Island Restaurants
In this issue, we've seen recipes
from both the home and profes-
sional kitchens of Crete and New
York restaurants. Greek regional
cooking has blossomed in the last
decade, with a resurgence of dish-
es but also a renaissance that looks
to tradition and transforms it into
modern food.
In our first summer issue of The
GreekGourmetraveler what better
place to look for these astounding
culinary transformations than in
the Greek islands most frequented
by foreign tourists. In this issue, we
highlight two Greek island restau-
rants, Selene, owned by Yiogos
Hatziyiannakis, in Fira on the
island of Santorini and Mavrikos,
owned by Dimitris and Mihalis
Mavrikos in Lindos, Rhodes.
In Santorini, the caper, the yellow
split pea, and the island's unique,
small, intensely flavored tomato
are among the main local ingredi-
ents chefs and home cooks alike
have always looked to for inspira-
tion. The island's cuisine is a cuisine
de pauvre filled with ingenious
recipes for making the most from
what was traditionally a limited
number of raw ingredients.
In lush, vast Rhodes, the cuisine is
quite different. There, the chick pea
prevails among pulses; seafood is
an important part of local culinary
lore; spices such as cumin and cin-
namon are found in many island
dishes.
Photography: Yiorgos Dracopoulos
Food Styling: Tina Webb
94 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma Greek island recipes
1. Preheat the grill to high. Scoop out
the sea urchin flesh and juices and mix
together with one tablespoon olive oil
and a little lemon juice. Set aside.
2. Finely chop the scallion and process
it together with the yellow split peas
at high speed in a blender or food
processor. Add a little olive oil and
lemon juice as you process. Season to
taste with salt and pepper.
3. Open each artichoke so that it looks
almost like a rose. Grill for a few min-
utes to color slightly. Spread two
tablespoons of the split pea mixture
on a serving plate, spread the arti-
choke on top, open flowerlike, and add
a dollop of the sea urchin mixture.
Repeat with remaining artichokes,
fava, and sea urchin. Garnish with
dill.
Artichokes Filled with Sea Urchin and Yellow Split Pea Cream
Selene, Santorini, Yiorgos Hatziyannakis
Meze for 8
8 sea urchins
4 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil
Lemon juice to taste
1/2 cup cooked Santorini yellow split peas
1 scallion
8 small artichokes preserved in olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Fresh snipped dill, for garnish
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Santorini Tomato-Lamb Torte with Greek Yogurt
For 4 servings
2 scallions
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin Greek olive oil
1/2 cup long-grain, parboiled rice
1 cup water
400 gr. (about 1 lb.) boneless lamb, cut into 1-inch strips
2 eggs, separated
1 garlic clove
3 cups Greek strained yogurt
1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh mint
20 small cherry or Santorini tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste
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Kerasma Greek island recipes
1. Light the grill to high. Cut off the
tops of the scallions and julienne.
Submerge in ice water.
2. Finely chop the remaining scallions
and sauté in a little olive oil. Add the
rice and brown lightly. Add the water,
salt, and pepper and cook until the
rice absorbs most of the water.
Remove from heat and let cool.
3. Grill the meat to brown lightly.
Season with salt and pepper.
4. Whisk the egg yolks until stiff peaks
form. Combine the yogurt, mint, egg
yolks, salt, pepper, and meringue.
5. Lightly oil a sheet pan and 4 large
ring molds. Place a heaping table-
spoon of rice on the bottom of each
ring mold. Combine the remaining
cooked rice with the yogurt mixture.
Finely chop all but 4 tomatoes and
combine with the lightly grilled meat.
Place a little of the yogurt-rice mix-
ture inside the ring mold, then spread
a little of the meat-tomato mixture on
top. Repeat. Do the same for the
remaining three ring molds. Bake in a
preheated oven at about 375F (190°C)
for 15-20 minutes. In the meanwhile,
lightly sear the remaining four toma-
toes, either on the grill or in a non-
stick skillet. Remove the tortes from
the oven, transfer to 4 serving plates,
let cool slightly, remove the ring molds
and garnish with one charred tomato
and the julienne scallion leaves. Serve.
98 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma Greek island recipes
1. Mash the cheese with a fork or
potato masher.
2. Dampen the gelatin in a little cold
water to soften then heat over low
flame to dissolve. Combine with the
cheese and mix vigorously.
3. Whisk the egg whites to form a stiff
meringue. Fold the meringue into the
cheese mixture, together with the
sweet tomatoes and the candied
capers. Refrigerate for several hours.
Garnish with a little chopped sweet
tomato and serve.
• To make the candied capers: desalt
the capers by blanching them in plain
water and then leaving them to soak
for several days in ample water,
replenishing it every few hours.
Remove and blot dry. Make a syrup
with 1 cup sugar and 2/3 cup water
and simmer the capers in the syrup for
about 20 minutes. Remove with a
slotted spoon to use in the dessert.
Sweet Myzithra (Soft Cheese) Cream with Tomatoes and Candied Capers
For 4 servings
350 gr. (about 12 oz.) anthotyro or Santorini myzithra or any soft,
mild whey cheese
4 Tbsp. Greek thyme honey
3 gelatin sheets
3 egg whites
12 tomatoes drained from Greek tomato spoon sweet, chopped
2 Tbsp. candied capers*
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Skorpion Fish Braised with Yellow Squash and Mint
Mavrikos, Lindos, Rhodes, Dimitris and Mihalis Mavrikos
For 4 servings
1.5 kg. (3 lbs.) skorpion fish or other tasty rock fish
400 gr. (1 lb.) yellow squash
1/2 cup Greek extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, cut into slivers
Juice of 1 large lemon
1/3 cup sweet Muscat from Rhodes
Salt
Black peppercorns
1/2 large bunch fresh mint, leaves only, julienne
Kerasma Greek island recipes
1. Clean and fillet the fish. Cut into
large strips or squares.
2. Clean the squash, remove the seeds,
and cut the flesh into large, thin
cubes.
3. Heat the olive oil in a large
saucepan and sauté the onion and
garlic. Add the squash and sauté.
Season with salt and pepper. Add the
fish. Pour in the lemon juice and wine.
Taste for salt and adjust seasoning.
Add the mint. Simmer until the
squash is tender and the fish flaky.
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Kerasma Greek island recipes
1. Mash the cheese together with the
sugar, herbs, and nutmeg. Place on a
double sheet of plastic wrap and
shape into a small log or cylinder.
Twist closed and refrigerate for two
hours to firm.
2. Sauté the peach slices in the butter.
Add the pepper and cinnamon sticks.
Stir gently. Add the wine and honey.
Simmer until the pan juices are thick
and syrupy.
To serve: Cut the cheese into rounds,
plate, and top with the syrup-poached
peaches.
Greek Peaches with Rhodes Muscat and Myzithra Cheese
For 4 servings
200 gr. (1/2 lb.) lightly salted, fresh soft myzithra, anthotyro
or other soft whey cheese
1 tsp. sugar
2-3 Tbsp. mixed chopped mint and lemon verbena
Pinch of nutmeg
2 large peaches, peeled and sliced
2 Tbsp. butter
4 peppercorns
2 cinnamon sticks
1 cup sweet Rhodes muscat
2 tsp. Greek honey
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Kerasma:Treat Your Tastewith Great Recipes for Ouzo,Assyrtico Wine, Greek FarmedFish, Spoon Sweets, and Peaches
Photography: Yiorgos Dracopoulos
Food styling: Tina Webb
104 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Mix the garlic together with the
olive paste and mint leaves.
2. Toast the bread.
3. Spread the paste onto each slice,
place one anchovy one pepper strip on
top. Serve.
Grilled Bread with Olive Paste, Marinated Anchovies and Red Florina Peppers
For 12 pieces
1 garlic clove, mashed
100 gr. (3 oz.) Kalamata olive paste
15 mint leaves, very finely chopped
12 thick slices stale bread, 4 x 2.5 cm (1 1/2 x 1 in.)
12 marinated anchovies
12 strips, 4 cm (1 1/2 in.) wide, of red Florina peppers, grilled
(you can buy them in brine or olive oil, too)
Grilled Bread with Spicy Cheese and Green Peppers
For 12 pieces
100 gr. (3 oz.) cream
1 Tbsp.boukovo, or red pepper flakes
1 1/2 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil
250 gr. (9 oz.) feta
1 tsp. sweet paprika
2 green peppers, diced
1 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil for the peppers
Salt and freshly ground pepper
12 slices stale bread, 6 x 2.5 cm (2 x 1 in.)
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Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Warm the cream in a small
saucepan, taking care not to boil.
2. Sauté the boukovo in the olive oil
for 30 sec. over medium heat.
3. Process the feta, hot cream, bouko-
vo, and paprika at high speed until
creamy. Refrigerate for 2 hours.
4. Mix the peppers with the remaining
olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
5. Toast the bread, spread a little of
the cheese spread on them and deco-
rate each with a few peppers. Serve.
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Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Grill the peppers on both sides (about
4 - 5 minutes per side), place them
immediately in a bowl and cover with
cellophane, keeping the bowl covered
for 20 minutes. Skin the peppers and
remove the seeds. Dry them on paper
towels and cut them up.
2. Fry them together with the oil and
garlic in a frying pan on a low heat for
7 - 8 minutes until most of their juices
have evaporated. Process them at
medium speed until they become a
velvety cream. Season with salt and
pepper.
3. Grill the bread on both sides and
spread the pepper cream on each slice.
Place two slices of trout on each piece
of bread and decorate with the dill
leaves and lemon zest.
Grilled Bread with Creamed Florina Peppersand Smoked Trout
For 6 meze servings
12 thick slices stale bread, 6 x 2 1/2 cm (2 x 1 in.)
10 red Florina peppers
2 garlic cloves, finely cut
1 1/2 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil
24 slices of smoked trout filet
Fresh snipped dill for garnish
Grated rind of 1 lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper
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Potatoes Stuffed with Smoked Mackerel and Herbs
For 10 meze servings
10 new potatoes, 50 gr. (1 2/3 oz.) each
150 gr. (5 oz.) smoked mackerel, diced fine
1/2 bunch of tarragon, finely chopped
1/3 bunch chives, finely chopped
50 gr. (1 2/3 oz.) strained Greek yogurt
30 ml (1 oz) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
White pepper, freshly ground
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Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Boil the potatoes until al dente.
Remove carefully with a slotted
spoon, cool slightly, and cut off a bit
of one tip so they can stand upright.
2. Using a melon baller, scoop out the
potato flesh, leaving a shell about 1/4-
inch (1 cm-) thick.
3. Mash the potato lightly with a fork.
Add the smoked mackerel, tarragon,
chives, yogurt and olive oil. Season
with pepper. Fill each potato with the
mixture and serve.
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Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Salt the zucchini well and leave in a
bowl for about 45 minutes. Little by
little put some of the grated zucchini
into a kitchen towel and extract the
water by squeezing.
2. Combine the grated zucchini with
the rest of the ingredients except the
flour. Using a tablespoon, shape the
mixture into about 25 fritters (approx.
30 gr./1 oz. each).
3. Dredge the fritters lightly in the
flour and deep fry at 170°C (340F) for
3-4 minutes until golden and crisp.
Sauce: Heat the milk to warm and
process together with the feta, olive
oil, and oregano at high speed. Keep
warm. Serve the fritters with the
sauce.
Zucchini Fritters with Feta Sauce
For 6-8 servings:
For the Fritters:1.8 kg (4 lbs.) zucchini, grated
Salt and white pepper, freshly ground
400 gr. (1 lb.) fresh tomatoes, skinned, seeded, and diced
150 gr. (5 oz.) onion, finely chopped
1/2 bunch mint leaves, finely chopped
50 gr. (1 1/2 oz.) breadcrumbs
50 gr. (1 1/2 oz.) finely ground almonds
1/2 bunch chives, finely chopped
1/4 bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 eggs
Flour for dredging
For the Feta Sauce:200 ml milk
500 gr. (1 lb., 3 oz) Feta
50 ml (1 1/2 oz.) olive oil
1/2 bunch oregano leaves, fresh
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Sardines in Grape Leaves with Green Olive Sauce
For 12 meze or six main-course servings
For the sauce:400 gr. (13 oz.) green olives
2 garlic cloves, crushed
2 bunches coriander, leaves only
400 ml olive oil
Salt and pepper
For the wrapped fish:18 large sardines, boned and heads cut
18 large grape leaves
Salt and pepper, freshly ground
3-4 Tbsp. Greek extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 1/2 lemon
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Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Blend all the ingredients for the
sauce in a blender.
2. Wrap the sardines in the leaves,
leaving the tail out. Brush with oil
and season with salt and pepper.
3. Grill the sardines over high heat for
2 minutes per side. Sprinkle with
lemon juice.
4. Serve 3 or 6 sardines per portion,
with a little sauce per plate.
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Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Process all the ingredients for the
pesto until coarsely chopped. Remove
and set aside.
2. Warm the cream and then blend it
in a food processor together with the
manouri cheese. Add the thyme and
season with pepper. Refrigerate to
chill.
3. Simmer the vinegar in a small
saucepan until it is reduced by at least
half and becomes syrupy and thick.
Let cool.
4. Cut the zucchini and eggplant
lengthwise into thin slices. Salt and
drain for 30 minutes. Rinse and pat
dry. Brush with oil and grill over a
high heat until the vegetables soften
and acquire grill marks (the eggplant
needs a little longer to cook).
5. Place a little of the cheese mixture
on each vegetable slice and roll up.
Before serving, heat the parcels or
rolls in a very hot oven for 2 minutes.
Place 2 each of the rolls or parcels on a
plate and drizzle with a little pesto
and balsamic syrup. Serve.
Grilled Summer Vegetable Packets Stuffed with Cheese
For about 10 servings:
For the Pesto: 100 gr. (3 1/2 oz.) sun-dried tomatoes
3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 bunches basil leaves
50 gr. (1 1/2 oz.) pine nuts
50 gr. ( 1 1/2 oz.) San Michali cheese from Syros
or other piquant, hard, yellow cow's milk cheese
150 ml (2/3 cup) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
3 large zucchini
3 medium sized, long eggplants
700 gr. (1 2/3 pounds) aged manouri cheese, freshly grated
100 ml (3 1/2 oz.) heavy cream
1/3 bunch thyme leaves
12 oz. good balsamic vinegar
Greek extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper, freshly ground
Artichokes with Garlic and Potato Puree
For 4 servings
For the garlic and potato puree:2 potatoes (150 gr. / 5 oz.), boiled and cooled
5 garlic cloves
200 ml (7 oz.) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
Hot pepper to taste
7-8 Greek saffron threads
Vinegar as needed
8 medium globe artichokes
400 gr. (13 oz.) small onions
300 gr. (10 oz.) carrots
500 ml (2 cups) dry white wine
Juice of 1 - 2 lemons
150 gr. (5 oz) Feta, grated
1 celery stalk
3 Tbsp. fresh dill
Extra-virgin Greek olive oil as needed
Flour
115 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Mash the potatoes, garlic cloves,
hot pepper, and saffron. Drizzle in the
olive oil and vinegar, mashing all the
while until smooth. Set aside.
2. Trim the artichokes, removing all
leaves and scraping the hairy chokes.
Submerge in acidulated water to keep
from discoloring.
3. Peel the onions, but keep whole.
Pare and slice the carrots.
4. Sautee the onions and carrots in
olive oil, add a little lemon juice and
wine, and simmer for 10 minutes.
5. Place the artichokes in another
saucepan with stem side down.
Sprinkle with finely chopped celery
and dill and cover with the onion -
carrot mixture and its juices.
6. Add a little water and 1 tablespoon
of flour mixed with 4 tablespoons of
olive oil to the saucepan. Season with
salt and coarsely ground pepper and
cover with parchment paper. Serve.
Simmer over low heat for 25 - 30 min-
utes. When the artichokes are cooked,
let cool completely. Serve cold or at
room temperature on a pool of the
garlic - potato puree, sprinkled with
grated feta and chopped dill.
116 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. Clean and trim the anchovies,
removing heads and intestines. Wash
them well and place them in a large
skillet. Pour in the water or fish stock,
add the parsley and dill, and simmer
for 5 minutes.
2. Place the lemon and garlic on top of
each fish and season with salt and pep-
per. Add the olive oil and simmer for
another 7 - 8 minutes, or until tender.
3. Sprinkle with the fresh oregano
before serving.
Steamed Anchovies with Herbs and Garlic
For 8 servings
1 kg (2 pounds) fresh anchovies
125 ml (1/2 cup) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
125 ml (1/2 cup) water or if existing fish stock
1 lemon, sliced thin
4 garlic cloves, cut into slivers
1/2 bunch dill, finely chopped
1/2 bunch parsley, finely chopped
Fresh oregano
Salt and pepper
Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
Calamari Packets with Sautéed Amaranth, Mussels, and Ouzo
For 4 servings:
1 kg (2 pounds) large, fresh squid, cleaned and minced
2 leeks, finely chopped
3 large onions, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, minced
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 small bunch of parsley, finely chopped
400 gr. mussels, shelled and rinsed
150 ml (4 oz) ouzo
1 large tomato, grated
Grated zest of 1 orange
Salt
Peppercorns crushed with a mallet
500 gr. pork caul
400 gr. (1 pound) amaranth leaves
117 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Ouzo
1. Sauté 1/3 of the onion, celery, half of
the garlic, half the parsley, and leek in
olive oil. Add the mussels and ouzo.
Add the calamari. Remove from heat
and mix in 1/3 more of remaining raw
onion, orange zest, salt, and pepper-
corns. Strain, reserve the liquid, and
pass it through a fine mesh sieve to
strain further.
2. Cut the caul fat into 10-cm (4-in.)
squares and place a tablespoon of the
squid mixture in the middle. Fold the
sides toward the center, then roll into
little packages. Grill over high heat
until browned.
3. Sauté the amaranth in some olive
oil, adding the rest of the onion, gar-
lic, parsley, and ouzo-scented liquid
from the mussels. Remove from the
heat and add the grated tomato.
4. Serve the calamari packets on a
bed of the amaranth.
118 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Assyrtico
1. Cut the cucumber in half length-
wise. Using a mandolin, cut the
cucumbers into long spaghetti-like
strands. Season lightly with salt and
let drain in a colander.
2. Using a vegetable parer, shave the
asparagus into thin strands. Blanch
for a few seconds in salted water then
drain and shock in a bath of ice water.
3. Whisk together all the ingredients
for the vinaigrette.
4. Combine the zucchini, asparagus,
mint and 5 Tbsp. of the dressing in a
bowl and let stand for five minutes.
Place a small mound of the mixture in
the center of each serving plate, place
the trout fillets on top and drizzle
with the remaining dressing. Serve, if
desired, with small rusks spread with
mint cream.
For the Mint Cream
Combine 100 ml heavy cream with 50
gr. (3 1/2 oz.) anthotyro, 1 tsp. fresh
chopped mint, a pinch of grated lime
zest, 1 Tbsp. lime juice, salt and pep-
per. Process until smooth and spread
onto small rusks to accompany the
salad above.
Smoked Trout with Cucumber and Lime Vinaigrette
For 8-10 meze servings
2 medium cucumbers
Salt and freshly ground red and green peppercorns
100 gr. (3 oz.) asparagus
For the Lime Vinaigrette 50 ml. (3 1/2 Tbsp.) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
(1 1/2 Tbsp.) fresh lime juice
3 Greek saffron threads, diluted in 1 Tbsp. hot water
1 tsp. Greek honey
1/2 tsp. mustard
3 Tbsp. orange juice
1/2 tsp. grated lime zest
1/2 cucumber, peeled
Salt and freshly ground green peppercorns
4 smoked trout fillets
2 Tbsp. fresh chopped mint
1/2 Tbsp. lemon juice
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Home-Cured Tuna with Citrus and Olive Oil
For 4-6 servings
2 small whole tunny fish, 400 gr. (1 lb.) each; or tuna filet
1 1/2 Tbsp. coarse sea-salt
Greek extra-virgin olive oil
For the sauce:40 ml (1 1/3 oz.) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
10 ml (1/3 oz.) lemon juice
30 ml (1 oz.) orange juice
10 ml (1/3 oz.) grapefruit juice
3 gr. mustard powder
3 gr. grated orange rind
3 gr. grated lemon rind
1 tsp. mint leaves, finely chopped
Salt
Green peppercorns
For the garnish:1 orange, sliced, peeled, and cut into small pieces
1/2 grapefruit, sliced, peeled, and cut into small pieces
2 Tbsp. minced green apple (drizzled with lemon juice to keep from
discoloring)
1 Tbsp. lightly toasted pine nuts
2 Tbsp. parsley and basil leaves, coarsely chopped
121 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Assyrtico
1. Cut the tuna into very thin fillets.
Remove the skin. Salt the filets gener-
ously and place in a stainless steel
colander. Drain for at least 4 hours in
the refrigerator. Wash tuna well under
running water, pat dry, and leave in a
bowl. Pour olive oil over to cover the
tuna and refrigerate again.
2. Blend all ingredients for the sauce
in a food processor.
3. In another bowl stir together all
ingredients for the garnish.
4. Strain the tuna filets from the oil
and place them in the middle of a
large platter. Surround with the gar-
nish, pour the sauce over, and serve.
122 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Assyrtico
1. Remove the skin, eyes, mouth, and
cartilage from the cuttlefish and cut
lengthwise from the front to the back.
Keep the two ink sacs, tear the mem-
brane, and dissolve the ink into the
fish stock.
2. Sauté the onion lightly in the olive
oil, add half the stock and let simmer
for 10-12 minutes. Add the cuttlefish
and pour in the rest of the stock.
Simmer until the cuttlefish is almost
tender. Add the raisins, pine nuts, and
wine. As soon as the alcohol cooks off,
season to taste with salt and pepper
and serve.
Cuttlefish Braised with Assyrtiko Wine
For 2-4 servings
1 kg. (2 lbs.) small cuttlefish
500 ml (2 cups) fish stock
3 large onions, cut into rings
200 ml (3/4 cup) olive oil
200 ml (3/4 cup) red Assyrtiko wine
1 Tbsp. dark raisins
1 Tbsp. pine nuts
Salt and pepper
John Dory Fish Cooked in Assyrtico
For 4 servings
2 John Dory fish, about 800 gr. (approx. 2 lbs) each, filleted
2 cups of white Assyrtiko wine
1 tsp. cumin
1 tsp. allspice
2 cinnamon sticks
6 laurel leaves
500 ml Greek extra-virgin olive oil
500 ml fish stock
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 kg. (1 lb.) celery (leaves and tender stalks)
Salt, pepper
123 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Assyrtico
1. Place the four fish fillets in a
saucepan, add the wine and spices. As
soon as the wine simmers, add the
celery, lower the heat, then add the
olive oil and fish stock.
2. Simmer until the liquid is reduced
by half. Slowly add the lemon until
you get the desired acidity and season
with salt and pepper to taste.
3. Distribute the celery on four plates
and top with one fish fillet.
4. Process the remaining pot juices at
high speed in a food processor or blender
and pour over the fish and celery.
124 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. Sauté the leek and spring onions
until soft. Raise the heat and add the
spinach, cooking it until it exudes its
juices. Add the rice, cooking for 1
minute, then add the wine and water.
Close the lid, lower the heat, and cook
for 25 minutes.
2. When the rice is ready, remove from
heat, stir in the aromatic herbs and
lemon, and season with salt and pepper.
3. Heat the fish stock together with
the other ingredients for the sauce.
Remove and process in a high-speed
blender. Keep warm.
4. Season the fish fillets with salt and
pepper and sauté them over high heat,
skin-side down, for 2 minutes. Remove
from heat and turn over in the pan.
5. Place some spinach rice in the mid-
dle of a plate, one gilthead fillet on
top and drizzle with yogurt sauce.
Gilthead Bream with Spinach-Rice Pilaf and Yogurt Sauce
For the spinach-rice pilaf
75 ml (2 ½ oz.) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
100 gr. (3 oz.) leeks, finely chopped
100 gr. 3 oz.) spring onions, finely chopped
350 gr. (10 oz) fresh spinach, cleaned and trimmed
100 gr. (3 oz.) short grain rice
100 ml (3 oz.) dry white wine
100 ml (3 oz.) water
1 bunch dill, finely chopped
1 small bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 bunch chervil, finely chopped
1 bunch fennel, finely chopped
Juice of 1 ½ lemons
Salt and freshly ground pepper
For the yogurt sauce:100 ml (3 oz.) fish stock
200 ml (6 oz.) strained Greek yogurt
15 mint leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
For the gilthead bream:3 gilthead bream, 600 gr. (1 lb. 5 oz., each), filleted (boned, skin on)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Greek olive oil for cooking
Kerasma recipes for farmed fish
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Sea Bass Skewers with Roasted Tomatoes and Caper-Olive Mayonnaise
For 12 skewers, 75 gr. (2 ½ oz.) each (6 servings)
9 plum or pomodoro tomatoes, skinned
and halved lengthwise, seeds removed
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
Greek extra-virgin olive oil
Thyme
1 garlic clove cut into slivers
900 gr. (2 lbs.) sea bass fillets, cut into cubes
and threaded onto 36-cm (12-inch) skewers
For the mayonnaise2 egg yolks
200 ml (6 oz.) Greek extra-virgin olive oil
50 gr. (1 1/2 oz.) tiny capers
50 gr. (1 1/2 oz.) pickled onions, finely chopped
25 gr. (3/4 oz.) throumbes (wrinkled) olives, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. parsley, finely chopped
1 Tbsp. tarragon, finely chopped
Lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper
127 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for farmed fish
1. Season the tomatoes with salt and
pepper, drizzle olive oil over them,
sprinkle with thyme, and top each
tomato with a sliver of garlic. Place
on parchment paper. Bake at 80°C
(200F) oven for 4 to 6 hours. Remove
and discard the garlic.
2. Whisk the egg yolks well, adding
the olive oil drop by drop to make the
mayonnaise. Once it is emulsified and
smooth, add the remaining ingredi-
ents. Add enough lemon juice to taste.
3. Thread the sea bass onto the skew-
ers evenly. Season with salt and pep-
per, brush them with olive oil and grill
over direct heat for about 2 minutes
per side, until done.
4. Place 3 baked tomatoes on each
plate, top with two sea bass skewers,
and serve the mayonnaise in a small
bowl next to it.
128 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. For the sauce sauté the garlic in 10
ml (1/3 oz.) olive oil for 30 secs. And
add the stock or wine. Boil for 5 min-
utes (10 minutes if you use wine
instead of stock) and add the milk.
2. Just before the milk comes to a boil,
add the pistachios. Simmer for 20
minutes, remove from heat and
process in a high-speed blender,
together with the basil leaves, for 2
minutes.
3. Pass the sauce through a fine-mesh
sieve and season with salt and pepper.
4. Brush the fish with olive oil, season
with salt and pepper, and press on
both sides into the fennel seed.
5. Grill the fish over a high heat for 3
minutes on each side (2 minutes if the
fish is being pan-seared in a non-stick
skillet).
6. Pour a bed of sauce onto each plate
and serve the fish on top.
Sea Bass in a Fennel-Seed Crust, with Pistachios and Basil
For 6 servings
1 garlic clove finely chopped
20 ml Greek extra-virgin olive oil, divided
250 ml (1 cup) fish stock, or 200 ml (6 oz.) dry white wine
200 ml (6 ½ oz.) whole milk
200 gr. (6 1/2 oz.) Aegina pistachios (shelled and unsalted)
5 basil leaves
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Few drops of lemon juice if needed
3 sea bass, 800 gr. (1 lb., 10 oz.) each, filleted and skinned
200 gr. (6 1/2 oz.) fennel seed
Kerasma recipes for farmed fish
Gilthead Bream Phyllo Packets
For 6 servings
1 large leek (only the white part), julienned
50 ml Greek extra-virgin olive oil
1 carrot (200 gr./ 6 1/2 oz.) julienned
2 large zucchini (150 gr./ 5 oz.each) julienned
50 ml white wine
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
12 sheets of phyllo pastry, cut in 26 cm- (10-inch) circles
Melted butter for brushing the phyllo sheets
3 gilthead breams (600 gr. / 1 lb. 5 oz. each), filleted and skinned
6 thyme sprigs
129 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for farmed fish
1. Cook the leeks in olive oil for 5 min-
utes over low heat. Add the carrot,
cooking for another 3 minutes, then
add the zucchini, cooking for one more
minute. Pour in the wine and raise the
heat. Simmer until all the juices evap-
orate. Season with salt and pepper.
2. Place one phyllo circle on top of
another, brushing between each.
Brush the surface with butter. Repeat
with remaining sheets to make a total
of six double circles.
3. Season the fish fillets with salt and
pepper and place in the center of one
circle. Top with a little of the veg-
etable mixture and thyme sprig. Fold
in two sides of the circle to cover the
fish, then fold up the ends to make a
packet. Brush with a little butter.
4. Place the packages in a non-stick
baking pan and bake immediately in a
190°C (375 F) oven for 10 minutes.
Serve.
130 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. Sauté the leek and spring onions
until they soften. Raise the heat and
add the spinach, cooking it until it
exudes its juices. Add the rice, cooking
for 1 minute, then add the wine and
water. Close the lid, lower the heat
and cook for 25 minutes.
2. When the rice is ready, remove from
heat, stir in the aromatic herbs and
lemon, season with salt and pepper.
3. Cut the fish fillets into about 20
pieces, roughly to the size of the
spoons you will use to serve. Season
with salt and pepper and sauté for one
minute each on both sides in olive oil.
4. Place a little spinach rice on each
spoon. Place a piece of fish on top and
garnish, if desired, with fennel leaves.
Spinach and Rice on a Spoon with Gilthead Bream
For 6 servings
For the spinach-rice mixture
100 gr. (3 oz.) leek, finely chopped
100 gr. 3 oz.) spring onions, finely chopped
60 ml Greek extra-virgin olive oil
500 gr. (1 lb., 2 oz) spinach, cleaned and trimmed
150 gr. (5 oz.) short grain rice
100 gr. (3 oz.) white wine
100 gr. (3 oz.) water
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch dill, finely chopped
1 small bunch parsley, finely chopped
1 bunch chervil, finely chopped
1 bunch fennel, finely chopped
Juice of 1 ½ lemons
For the gilthead bream
1 1/2 kg (3 lbs.) gilthead bream, filleted, skinned and deboned
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Greek olive oil for cooking
Kerasma recipes for farmed fish
131 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
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Sea Bass Stuffed with Pine Nuts, Raisins, and Coconut
For 4 servings
4 medium, whole sea bass (350 - 400 gr./11 - 12 oz.),
each, scaled and cleaned
For the stuffing:250 gr. (1/2 oz.) onion, finely chopped
100 ml Greek extra-virgin olive oil
3 Tbsp. dark raisins
3 Tbsp. pine nuts
5 Tbsp. grated or shredded coconut
1 garlic clove, crushed
3 Tbsp. lemon juice
Salt and pepper
Flour for dredging
133 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for farmed fish
1. Starting from the tail and ending
near the head, make an incision along
the stomach of each fish. Carefully
remove the backbone and return the
fish to the refrigerator to firm up the
flesh.
2. Sauté the onion in the olive oil, and
add all the other ingredients. Season
with salt and pepper and pour in the
lemon juice.
3. Pour the mixture into a sieve to
drain and cool.
4. Season the fish with salt, fill each
cavity with the stuffing and sew up
with kitchen thread. Place for another
hour in the fridge to firm up. Dredge
lightly in the flour, fry lightly in olive
oil, and serve.
134 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. Strain the peaches from their juices,
dry with paper towels, and cut each
into 6 slices.
2. Soak the gelatin in cold water. Heat
the water. Add the soaked gelatine
sheets and let cool slightly.
3. Add the sweet wine and stir.
4. Let the jelly stand at room tempera-
ture to cool and thicken, then pour
into a round mold, about 20 cm (8 in.)
in diameter. Sprinkle the verbena over
the jelly and distribute the peach
slices evenly.
5. Place in the freezer to set, then add
the rest of the jelly. Leave for several
hours in the refrigerator to set com-
pletely.
6. To serve, dip the mold into a basin
of hot water to loosen, then invert
onto a serving platter. Cut and serve
with yogurt.
Peach Gelée with Sweet Samos Muscat
For 6 servings
1 kg. (2.2 lbs) canned Greek peaches in syrup
6 sheets (30 gr / 1oz. total) gelatine
500 ml (2 cups) water
500 ml (2 cups) Samos Muscat wine
Lemon verbena, finely chopped
Strained Greek yogurt for serving
Kerasma recipes for Greek Peaches
Peach Jam with Oranges
For about 1 ½-2 kilos (3-4 lbs.) jam
15 medium-sized fresh Greek peaches
6 small thin-skinned oranges
1,250 gr. (2 pounds and 11 oz.) sugar
400 ml. water
135 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Kerasma recipes for Greek Peaches
1. Peel the peaches and cut them into
small pieces. Grate the zest off the
oranges. Peel the oranges and cut
them into small pieces, removing any
existing pips.
2. Mix the sugar, water, peaches,
oranges and grated rind in a saucepan
and simmer for about 40 minutes
until thickened. Remove and place
immediately into sterilized jars.
3. Place the jars in a pot with enough
water to come half way up. The lids
should be loosely screwed on. Bring to
a simmer; boil for 5 minutes, remove,
close the lids tightly and turn the jars
upside down. Let cool and store in a
cool, dry place.
136 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350F).
2. Beat the butter and sugar with an
electric mixer until light and creamy.
Add the eggs one at a time, beating
after each addition. Add the mastic oil.
3. Fold in the flour.
4. Butter and flour a 23-cm- (9-inch)
round pie pan. Press the dough into
the pan.
5. Wash and rub dry the peaches, cut
into halves to take out the pip and
then cut into thin slices. Distribute
evenly over the dough.
6. Bake in the preheated oven for
about 30 minutes, sprinkle with crys-
tal sugar and bake for another 10 - 15
minutes. Let cool and serve, either
warm or at room temperature.
Peach Pie with Mastic
160 gr. (5.5 oz.) unsalted butter
160 gr. (5.5 oz.) sugar
3 large eggs
200 gr. (6.5 oz.) flour
3 - 4 hard, fresh Greek peaches
Sugar for sprinkling
3 - 4 drops of mastic oil
Kerasma recipes for Greek Peaches
137 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
138 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
139 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
1. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350F).
2. Whip the butter and sugar at high
speed with an electric mixer until light
and creamy. Add the eggs one at a
time, beating after each addition.
3. Fold in the flour and the grated
zests.
4. Drain the spoon sweets and finely
chop. Save their syrup for another use.
5. Butter and flour a rectangular cake
pan 24 x 8 cm (10 x 4 inches), pour the
batter into it, and bake in the pre-
heated oven for 1 hour. Cool on a rack
and serve.
Cake with a Selection of Spoon Sweets
For 8 servings
150 gr. (5 oz.) unsalted butter at room temperature
120 gr. (4 oz.) sugar
3 large eggs
600 gr. (1 pound, 5 oz.) selection of spoon sweets
(citrus peels, orange, figs, cherries)
225 gr. (7 1/2 oz.) flour
Grated zest of 1 orange
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Butter and flour for the cake pan
Kerasma recipes for Spoon Sweets
140 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
Yogurt Cream with Fig Spoon Sweet
For 6 servings
For the cream:1 vanilla bean
200 gr. (7 oz.) Greek thyme honey
150 gr. (5 oz.) heavy cream
2 leaves (10 gr. 3 oz.) gelatin
400 gr. (14 oz.) strained Greek yogurt
200 gr. (7 oz.) anthotyro
For the figs:500 gr. 2 lbs. fig spoon sweet
30 ml (1 oz.) brandy
Grated zest of ½ lemon
For the yogurt cream:
1. Cut the vanilla bean lengthwise in
half. Place the honey, heavy cream
and vanilla in a small saucepan and
heat slowly until the honey dissolves.
Do not let the cream boil. Remove
from heat and set aside. Strain and
discard the vanilla.
2. Soak the gelatine sheets in 2 cups of
water. Remove the softened sheets
and add to the cream-honey mixture,
stirring well to dissolve. Let cool
slightly.
3. Mix in the yogurt and anthotyro,
stirring vigorously with a wooden
spoon until smooth. Leave in the
refrigerator to cool and set, for about
2-3 hours.
For the figs:
1. Drain the figs well. Reserve the
syrup. Quarter the figs.
2. In a small bowl, combine the
brandy, syrup, and grated lemon zest.
Add the figs back to the syrup. Serve
the cold yogurt cream garnished with
the figs in the brandy-flavored syrup.
Kerasma recipes for Spoon Sweets
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142 GREEKGOURMETRAVELER
In the next issue…
Wine Country Nemea
Saffron from Kozani
The Greek Kitchen Down Under—Australia
Straight from the Source—Greece's Mineral
Waters Sparkle with Flavor
Kerasma Recipes
And more….
Kerasma is run under the aegisof the Hellenic Ministry of Economyand Finance and the Hellenic ForeignTrade Board (HEPO).
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