11

1st Progress Meeting

INESCOP

PROJECT PROGRESS

& PLANNED

ACTIVITIES

Santa Croce Sull’ Arno BIOKIMICA13rd June 2014

Mercedes RoigJoaquín FerrerINESCOP

LIFE 12 ENV/IT/352

22

First steps taken by INESCOP

ACTION DATE

B1. Demonstration of the use of traditional chemical acid dyes in leather dyeing

Jan-Jun’14

B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with acid dyes

Jan-Jun’14

C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture

Jan-Sep’14

E1. Project management Continuos

3

B1. Demonstration of use of commercialmetal -free acid dyes on leather dyeing

Objective: Obtain leathers dyed with different commercial metal-free acid

dyes, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes evaluation

Tasks:– Selection of commercial metal-free acid dyes: 15 monochromatic samples + 10 combinated samples– Definition of the leather post-tanning process: neutralization,

retanning, fatliquoring and dyein– Dyeing test at laboratory level– Evaluation of dyeing baths exhaustion by UV-V Espectroscopy

Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP

4

Test & Results control sheets

• Test reference• Type of leather and

pre-dyeing treatment • Tests on leather:

– Fastness properties – Physical test

• Test on residual baths

5

Leather pre-dyeing treatment

Chemical Temperature

Rotation (min.)

200% Water 40°C

0,2% Acetic acid

0,2% Alcohol ethoxylate 30 Drain

200% Water 35°C 5 Drain

Retanning

100% Water 35°C

5% Chrome sulfate (50 Shorlemmer)

2% Synthetic chrome

0,5% Cathionic fatliquoring 180 Automatic rotation all night long

100% Water 40°C 20 Drain

6

Laboratory level dyeing test

Dyeing

50% Water 20°C

2% Naphthenic dispersing agent

2% Dye 60

200% Water 55°C

2% Formic acid 30

7

Dyeing baths exhaustion (UV-V Espectroscopy)

DYEING BATH EXHAUSTION %

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

0' 10' 30' 60' 90'

Time (minutes)

% E

xhau

stion YELLOW 42

ORANGE 7

RED 131

BLUE 225

8

B2. Demonstration of the quality features of dyed leather with metal-free acid dyes

Objective: Evaluate properties of commercial metal-free acid dyes in

the leather dyeing process, which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation

Tasks:– Dye fastness evaluation throuht standard fastness test:

fastness to rubbing (wet and dry), light, PVC migration, water, perspiration and washing

– Physical properties: tensile strebght, resistance to wear and resistance to heat

Responsible: COLORTEX - INESCOP

9

Fastness to rubbing (dry/wet)

1010

Rubbing fastness resultsRUBBING FASTNESS

Wet DryPardo coriacide R 3/4 4/5

Havanna coriacide X3J 3 4/5Burdeos coriacide 3B 3/4 4/5

Pardo anaranjado coriacide X3R 4 4/5Beige inoderme AN 5 5

Tabaco oscuro coriacide 4 5Verde oliva coriacide 4 4/5Burdeos coriacide FD 2/3 4

Navy P/C JRB 4 4Negro coriacide 3/4 4

Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ 4 4/5Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN 4 4Green (yellow/blue 50:50) 3/4 4

Violet (red/blue 50:50) 4 4/5Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33) 2/3 4/5Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33:33:33) 2/3 4/5

Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25:25:25:25) 3/4 4/5Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:30:50) 3/4 4/5Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:50:30) 4 4/5Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:40:40) 4 5

YELLOW 42 3/4 5ORANGE 7 3/4 5RED 131 3/4 5BLUE 225 4 4/5

11

Fastness to light

12

Fastness to PVC migration / water spotting

13

Fastness to water / perspiration

1414

Fastness to water resultsFASTNESS TO WATER

Wool Acrylic Polyes Nylon Cotton DicelPardo coriacide R 3/4 4/5 4 2/3 2/3 2/3

Havanna coriacide X3J 2/3 4/5 4 1 1/2 2Burdeos coriacide 3B 3 4/5 5 1 1/2 4

Pardo anaranjado coriacide X3R 3/4 5 5 2/3 2/3 4/5Beige inoderme AN 4/5 5 5 4 4/5 5

Tabaco oscuro coriacide 4/5 5 5 4 5 4/5Verde oliva coriacide 4/5 5 5 3/4 4/5 4/5Burdeos coriacide FD 3 4/5 4 2/3 3 4

Navy P/C JRB 4/5 5 5 4 4 4/5Negro coriacide 4 4/5 4/5 3/4 3/4 4/5

Pardo oscuro coriacide RJ 3/4 4/5 4 2/3 3/4 4Verde oscuro LUSTRA BSN 3/4 4/5 4 2/3 3/4 4/5Green (yellow/blue 50:50) 3/4 4/5 4/5 3/4 4 4/5

Violet (red/blue 50:50) 3 4 4 3 3 4Brown (1) (yellow/red/blue 33:33:33) 3 4/5 4 3 3/4 4Brown (2) (Orange/red/blue 33:33:33) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4

Black (1) (yellow/orange/red/blue 25:25:25:25) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4Black (2) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:30:50) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4Black (3) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:50:30) 1/2 5 4/5 1/2 4 4/5Black (4) (yellow/orange/red/blue 10:10:40:40) 1 4/5 4 1 3/4 3/4

YELLOW 42 2 4/5 4/5 2 3/4 4/5ORANGE 7 1 4/5 4 1 3 3/4RED 131 2 4/5 4/5 2 3 4/5BLUE 225 4 4/5 4/5 4 4 5

15

Fastness to washing

16

C1. Monitoring on the environmental impact of acid dyes within leather manufacture

Objective: Quantify and evaluate the environmental impact of dyeing

residual bath which will be employed as a reference for natural dyes properties evaluation

Tasks:Chemical analysis of dyeing residual bath by means of standard methods: COD, BOD and biodegradability

Responsible: INESCOP

17

COD & BOD results

CDO / BOD5

0

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

DQO

DBO5

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Biodegradability results (BOD/COD)

BIODEGRADABILITY

0

0,05

0,1

0,15

0,2

0,25

0,3

0,35

0,4

0,45

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

DYES

19

Thanks for your attention