2004-0824MT

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TRIC Training Log: 08-24-04

Client: Roto Rooter, Billings, Montana

Job: Two homes, shared 4” lateral tying into 6” main, rear easement

4” pull (lateral): downstream / 60’ / SDR17 / replacing 4” VCP

6” pull (main): upstream / 65’ / SDR17 / replacing 6” VCP

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We at TRIC Tools have specific requirements for the use and maintenance of our equipment with regard to safety and efficiency on the job. Our written and verbal recommendations coincide with safety regulations set by local, state, and national government agencies. Our

clients may have standards over and above industry regulations. However, the safety equipment, apparel, and operating procedures

demonstrated by our clients in this presentation may or may not comply with above mentioned government regulations.

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The arsenal: Shop owner surveys shipment of new pulling tools.

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Dedicated pulling vehicle: While tools at left could actually fit in this truck bed, a larger, covered (and maybe newer) van should be outfitted with all pulling necessities.

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Pulling hole: 4” VCP lateral (left side of pit) serving two units upstream ties into upstream terminus of 6” VCP main at rear property line. Worker kneels over 6” main line.

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Pulling hole: 4” downstream pull will be set up at left wall; 6” upstream pull will be set up at wall to upper right.

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6” main entry hole: Uncovering downstream end of main, where clean cut will be made to connect to new plastic line. Entry will be at top left of pit

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4” entry hole: Roughly 7’ deep, outside upstream home. Note copper water line crossing over cast iron sewer segment. Water line will not need to be cut. Also note poured concrete

joint at entry point to left, beyond which is terra cotta pipe.

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Staging area: Locate a clean, relatively flat place to fuse pipe.

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Bare necessities: Don’t even start a pull without plenty of wood for cribbing and support of pulling equipment!

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Fusing 4” PE pipe: Trimming pipe in fusing jig. Note that wood is also useful for leveling and aligning pipe.

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Step one: Trim any grossly uneven or scarred ends before trimming.

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Key item: If you don’t already have one, invest in a 11/2” socket wrench and extender arm for tightening core assembly bolts.

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PE end cap: Before tightening clamps, place cap against trimming blade to assure that it is aligned in jig. Set cap so that it will be trimmed only slightly, just enough to clean it and

face it along with opposing end.

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Heating: Watching ends melt after trimming and checking pipe alignment. PE cap melts at slightly slower rate than pipe lengths. After fusing and cooling cap, cut back 6”–8” from fusion

joint to allow core attachment

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Waiting game: For most commonly used sizes, let pipe joints cool 10 minutes. For exact recommended times and temperature ranges, see manufacturers specifications.

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Core assembly: Fusing pulling head after attaching core assembly to PE cap.

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Core attachment: Checking alignment (with clamp loose) prior to trimming and fusing.

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Heating: Bring pipe ends up to heating iron, make sure that they touch evenly on both sides of iron, and use neutral pressure.

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4” line ready to pull: Attaching cable clevis to head assembly.

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4” lateral entry: Core head assembly swivels and hinges on clevis pin, making steep entries like this (7’ deep, 4’ long pit) not only possible but common.

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Entry assist: Breaking concrete joint at transition from cast iron to clay pipe.

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Steep dive: Always monitor entry until head has disappeared and traveled a few feet into old line. Assist pipe in achieving as straight an entry as possible (aligned with old sewer).

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Moving along: Keep pressure gauge visible at all times during pull (see top hose on ram), and stay out of the pulling hole when ram is under pressure.

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Visible progress: 4” lateral pulls past second house connection.

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Office outing: Watching pull at second unit connection.

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Versatile PE pipe: Flexible replacement pipe is what makes pipe bursting possible. The material is also highly resistant to a wide array of chemicals.

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Fusing 6” pipe: Trimming PE cap and section of pipe. Note adjustable clamp diameters (lighter colored inserts).

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Same process, fatter pipe: Fusing 6” PE cap to section of pipe.

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Future main sewer: Facing ends before fusing 6” head core to pipe.

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Alignment: Checking facing after trim and before heating.

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Back to the action: Finishing up the 4” pull.Releasing cable from ram after using extension cage.

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Bumping: 8 lb. sledge hammer shown here is a bit small to be effective in some situations.

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Difficult example: Tight curve out of 7” deep pit plus additional length for striking adds up to a lot of shock absorption when bumping, which makes bumping less effective. Having an extra

person to steady pipe can help.

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Solution: Cribbing extender cage out even further after first use. Large pulling hole and plenty of wood are necessary for this.

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Cribbing 101: Not only wood, but also pin bars and even sections of galvanized pipe can be driven into the ground to provide resistance and stability to pulling unit.

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4” pull complete: Ready to set up 6” pull, from point where pulley is facing.

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Another 20’ to go: Finishing the 6” fusion (80’ total).

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Duct rod: Taping pulling cable to fiberglass duct rod to drag upstream to pulling hole.

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Receiving end: Cable reaches destination, and duct rod cut free. (Be careful with blades, as they can easily shave into fiberglass duct rod.)

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Main line ready: Connecting bursting head and cable.

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Ready for takeoff: 6” line connected and standing by.

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Entry assist #2: Note saddle cut into left edge of entry pit. Also, an arch was cut at entry hole and top of old pipe broken away. Worker stands on line to further direct an even approach.

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First few feet critical: After the bursting head has traveled 4 or 5 feet into the old line, a natural curve is established and entry hole usually needs little further attention.

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Pulling hole revisited: Working the main line. Operator is in ideal position for safety while still keeping pressure gauge in plain view.

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Meet the press: Journalist from local business review takes notes.

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Overview: Entry point of 4” shared lateral at upper house; lower (white) cottage connection point at corner behind excavation; pulling pit at rear property line between white cottage and

green garage. 6” main section (65’) replaced from pulling pit to red shed.

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Setup is everything: Perfect pulling pits are not always possible. In this case, however, a little extra hand digging to square off pulling wall (to be perpendicular to pipe) would make

job easier.

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Extra large work area: The big advantage to this pit is that it offers plenty of room to crib the extender cage, as bumping was not effective for 6” line as well.

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End of the line: Disassembly of pulling setup. Note wood cribbing between cage and pulley base. Odd angle of pulling wall and diameter of pipe necessitate this option. Stay out of pulling pit and clear of apparatus

during this final extraction phase, as cribbing can fly apart under even low pressure.

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Removing head assembly: Plenty of room for a final connection.

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4” lateral meets 6” main: A great improvement over the original!