2014 2-4-07 denim apparel manufacturing

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WELL COME TO THE PRESENTATION

Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex)

ONThe assignment On Modern Processes of Denim Apparel

Manufacturing

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BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF TEXTILES M.SC. IN TEXTILE ENGINEERING DEPT. OF APPAREL MANUFACTURING

ENGINEERING

Subject: Advanced Apparel Manufacturing Subject Code: 551

Topics: Modern Processes of Denim Apparel Manufacturing

Submitted To :Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan Head of the Dept. of AME

Submitted By :Rishad AhmedID: 2014-2-4-007

What is Denim?

Denim is a kind of a clothing which is noted for their strength and comfort. They have been worn by sailors and gold miners as sturdy work pants, by the young as a statement of their generation, and by the fashionable, who are conscious of the prestige conveyed by designer names.

Denim cloth itself has an unusual history. The name comes from serge de Nimes, or the serge of Nimes, France. Originally, it was strong material made from wool. By the 1700s, it was made from wool and cotton.

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Process involves in making denim apparels

Yarn Manufacturing Yarn Dyeing Weaving Fabric mercerization Cutting and sewing Washing Finishing


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YARN MANUFACTURING


Generally denim garments are made from cotton fabric extracted from coarser count cotton yarn. But in recent trend, polymerized yarn such as spandex or polyesters are also using to give stretch and comfort to wearer.Denim yarn composition may be either 100% cotton or 98% cotton+ 2% spandex..

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Yarn dyeingDenim fabric mainly Yarn dyed fabric where only warp yarns are

dyed with vat dye where Indigo is used as dye. With the process of oxidization using airflow indigo set in yarn to give its blue cast. Also sulfur dyes and disperse dyes are used.

denim is usually dyed with chemically synthesized indigo before being woven. Large balls of yarn, called ball warps, are dipped in the indigo mixture several times so that the dye covers the yarn in layers. (These many layers of indigo dye explain why blue jeans fade slightly with each washing.) it is known that a small amount of sulfur is often used to stabilize the top or bottom layers of indigo dye.

The dyed yarn is then slashed; that is, it is coated with sizing (starchy substances) to make the threads stronger and stiffer. Once this operation is complete, the yarn threads are ready to weave with un dyed weft yarn threads.



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Warp yarn dyeing of Denim


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Weaving:

The yarn is weave on large mechanical looms. Denim is not 100 percent blue, as the blue dyed threads forming the warp (long, vertical threads) are combined with white threads forming the weft (shorter, horizontal threads). As denim is warp faced twill fabric it shows indigo in face & white in back weft

Denim fabric is about 10-13 oz depending upon coarseness of fabric


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Fabric Characteristics

RHT Twill LHT Twill Warp & Weft Facing


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Fabric Mercerization:

At this point the denim fabric is ready for finishing, a term referring to a variety of treatments applied to cloth after it is woven. With denim, finishing is usually fairly simple. The cloth is brushed to remove loose threads and lint, and the denim is usually skewed in a way that will prevent it from twisting when it is made into clothing. The denim may then be sanforized, or preshrunk. Preshrunk denim should shrink no more than three percent after three washings.

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Cutting & Sewing:Once the desired design is

selected, patterns from the design are cut from heavy paper or cardboard. The pieces of denim are then cut with high speed cutting machines from stacks 100 layers thick. Excluding rivets, buttons, and zippers, a pair of blue jeans contains about ten different pieces, from the pockets to the leg panels to the waistband and belt loops. Automatic cutting tools using CAD is used to increase marker efficiency



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Sewing m/c used for denim Apparel:

FLAT LOCK MACHINE: Brand : JUKI, Brother, Group : Chain stitch Needle used : UY-128 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 &

21 SPM: 2500-6000 Adjustment : Thread tension, needle,

presser foot, stitch density, looper etc.

OVERLOCK MACHINE: Name : Industrial overlock m/c. Group : Chain stitch Types : 3, 4 & 5 threads Brand : JUKI, Brother, Sunstar SPM : 6500-8500 Needle no : 1 needle, 2 loopers (3); 2

needles, 2 loopers (4); & 2 needles, 3 loopers (5)

Needle used : DCX1 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 &

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BAR TACK MACHINE: Name : Industrial bar tack machine Brand : JUKI, Pegasus Group : Lock Stitch SPM : 3000-3500 Needle no : 1 needle Needle name : DPX5 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21

BUTTON HOLE MACHINE: Name : Industrial Button Holing Brand

: JUKI, Brother Group : Lock stitch SPM : 3000-3600 Needle used : DPX5 Needle size : 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21

BUTTON ATTACHING MACHINE: Name : Industrial Button Attaching

machine Brand : JUKI, Brother Group: Chain stitch SPM : 1200-1500 Needle no: 1 Needle use: TQX1 Needle size: 9, 11, 14, 16, 18, 20 & 21 Adjustment: Thread tension, needle &

button


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OPERATION BREAKDOWN: FIVE POCKET JEANS (Long Denim Pant):

SerialNo

Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine

1 Back Pocket Rolling 2 Needle Machine 1

2 Marking Table

3 Back Yoke Joining in Folder System Feed of the Arm m/c 1

4 Back Rise Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1

5 Back Rise Top Feed of the Arm m/c 1

6 Back Pocket Positioning on Marker Table

7 Back Pocket Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1

8 ¼” Stitch on Pocket Joining Plain Stitch m/c 1

Back part Joining:


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Front Part MakingSL. no Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine1 Pocket Matching2 Ironing3 Coin Pocket Attaching 2 Needle m/c 14 Label Joining Plain Stitch m/c 15 Coin Pocket Attaching with Front Facing Plain Stitch m/c 16 Number Match with Front Part7 Coin Pocket Joining with Front Part Plain Stitch m/c 28 Front Pocket Rolling 2 Needle m/c 19 Pocket Tuck Plain Stitch m/c 110 Pocketing Over Lock Over Lock m/c 111 Single Fly Join with Top Stitch Plain Stitch m/c 112 Pocket ¼” Top Stitch Plain Stitch m/c 113 Front Pocket with Front Tucking Plain Stitch m/c 114 Zipper Joining 2 Needle m/c 115 J – Stitch 2 Needle m/c 116 Double Fly Joining Plain Stitch m/c 117 Front Rise Stitch 2 Needle m/c 1


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ASSEMBLY:SL. Name of Operation Machine used No of Machine

1 Back & Front Part Match on Table2 In Seam Plain Stitch m/c 13 Top Seam on In Seam Feed of the Arm m/c 14 Side Seam Over Lock m/c 25 Hemming Plain Stitch m/c 16 Waist Belt Matching by Number7 Waist Belt Sewing KANSAI 28 Edge Neatening of Down Part of the Waist Plain Stitch m/c 29 Waist Top Part Making

10 Waist Top Part Edge Neatening Plain Stitch m/c 211 Checking by LQC12 Belt Loop Matching13 Loop Tuck on Down Side of Waist Plain Stitch m/c 214 Loop Joining with Top Side of Waist Plain Stitch m/c 215 Final Inspection16 Loop & Back Part Bar Tacking Bar Tack m/c 217 Side Pocket Tucking Plain Stitch m/c 1


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Sewing m/c used:

MULTI-NEEDLE DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH

Lock stitch m/c button sewingOVERLOCK MACHINES

advanced chainstitch sewingH/S D/N LOCKSTITCH


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Modular Manufacturing System:


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Washing

Wet Process: Normal Wash Bleach Wash Enzyme Wash Stone Wash Acid Wash Stone+Enzyme

Wash Ozone wash Caustic Wash

Dry Process: Hand Scraping Whiskering P.P spray Wrinkle(3D) Laser Grinding Destroy Tagging


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Machine used for Washing


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Wash Effect:


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Bi-Products: The process of cloth making involves treating the fabric

with a number of chemicals in order to produce clothing with such desirable characteristics such as durability, colorfastness, and comfort. Each step of finishing the cotton fabric (dyeing, sanforizing, etc.) produces byproducts, most of which are biodegradable.

Byproducts of denim manufacture include organic pollutants, such as Starch and dye, which can be treated through biological methods. These organic wastes may not be dumped into streams or lakes because of their high Bio chemical Oxygen demand. To decompose, such waste materials utilize so much oxygen that the life forms in the body of water would be denied the oxygen necessary for survival.

Denim manufacturers process their own wastes in compliance with all relevant government regulations.

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Process Sequence of production for Bestseller

Buyer Offer Sample

Sample showcase

Sample selection

Buyer’s speck sheet

Prototype pattern

Sample for approval (If ok)

Production Pattern

Bulk Production (Garment making)

Inspection

Packing ShipmentBangladesh University of Textiles

(BUTex)

FOUR POINT GRADING SYSTEMSize of defects Penalty3 inches or less 1 point

Over three inch but not 6 inch

2 point

Over 6 inch but not 9 inch

3 point

Over 9 inch 4 point

Defect Pts /100 square meter = (Total penalty point * 36*100)/ (fabric width in inch *fabric length in yards)

ANANTA maintains P.P to be approved at 28/lot & 24/consignment to achieve higher quality

QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM

Scope of quality control, quality assurance & testing

a. Testing Labb. Research & development(R&D)

In Apparel section, Quality Control:

a) In Marker makingb) In Spreading sectionc) In Cutting sectiond) In Sewing sectione) In Pressing & Finishing section

Fabric inspection

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Marketing Activities

PREMIUM BUYER:C&AGAP BESTSELLERH&M ETC.

MARKETING STRATEGY

I ) Market search ii) Market development iii) Customer’s motivation iv) Production follow up v) Technical assistance of custo

merAgain Ø To prepare cost sheet by dealing wit

h the buyer. Ø To take different steps by discussing

with the high officials & merchandisers

Ø To maintain a regular & good relationship between commercial officer & merchandisers

Ø To maintain a communication with the buyers and buying houses

Ø Communicate with better criteria of the products


MY GRATITUDE TO

Respected Teacher & mates Present Here&

Dr. Md. Mashiur Rahman Khan

Head of the Dept. of AME ,

Department of Apparel manufacturing Engineering.

Bangladesh University of Textiles (BUTex}.

SPECIAL THANKS TO

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THANK YOU

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For your Patience


2014 2-4-07 denim apparel manufacturing

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