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Page 1: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

thewinesociety.com/finewines

Page 2: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

2 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

How to use this Listl Wines are listed by theme and then by price

l Drink dates are given as a guide to maturity and ageing potential

l For further information about any of the wines please contact Member Services on 01438 741177

l Fine wines too limited in quantity to be listed may be found in the fine wine section of The Society’s website at thewinesociety.com/finewine

HARVEST HOME

CHAMPAGNE BOIZEL: A FAMILY JEWEL 3

We are privileged to take our pick of the archives of a family marque in its fifth generation. Included is a special-edition mixed case of three vintages of Joyau de France, literally the jewel in the Boizel crown.

COMMUNING WITH CLARET: PESSAC, SAINT-JULIEN AND SAINT-EMILION 4

Our regular dip into the communes of Bordeaux this time takes in the right bank, the Médoc and the northern tip of Graves, with six clarets all ready to drink now.

SMALL WONDERS: FINE WINES AT £20 AND UNDER 5

The most popular of all Fine Wine List features combines effortless class on the palate with corresponding ease on the wallet. The Wine Society Buying Team shows its mettle in yet another grand tour for the exploration-minded, from Bulgaria to New Zealand and back again to Hungary, pausing in the Costa del Sol for a glass of muscat!

UNVEILED! FINE WINE CHAMPIONS 2015 9

A veritable treat, especially for lovers of chardonnay, syrah, claret and new world cabernet, but the premium end of The Society’s 2015 blind-tasting marathon has something for everyone. Three mixed cases sum up the high points, with ample opportunity to do some personal mixing and matching.

SPIRIT OF THE AGE: WARNER EDWARDS ENGLISH GIN 13

Whether or not it rains, it still pours like a dream and it’s made in Northamptonshire! Opt for the original Dry or walk on the wild side with the Elderflower, Rhubarb or Sloe varieties and if you can’t decide, go for the mixed case. Indian summer cocktails start here.

ALSACE GRAND MASTERS: HUGEL 14

‘Quality can’t be added in the cellar,’ is one of many memorable observations by the late Johnny Hugel, and the grand cru vineyards behind a bottle of Jubilee are wholly apparent in the glass if not on the label. Marcel Orford-Williams presents a selection of gold standards and rarities from a long-standing Society friend.

VICTORIAN VALUES: SPOTLIGHT ON AUSTRALIA’S BOUTIQUE STATE 16

It’s all in the bouquet, says buyer Sarah Knowles, who presents a carefully curated collection from Australia’s original ‘State of Excitement’. Making her case are Mac Forbes, Sandro Mosele of Kooyong, Gary Mills of Jamsheed and Julian Castagna of Beechworth.

LEGENDS OF THE LOIRE: CHATEAU DE TRACY 17

Standing serene in the face of the world’s ongoing passion for exotic new world sauvignon, this grand old Pouilly property is still the last word in quiet elegance.

BURGUNDY PROFILE: DOMAINE JEAN-MARC VINCENT, SANTENAY 18

‘Wine is better when nature is all around it,’ says Jean-Marc Vincent, whose wines made their Society debut in 2008. We catch up with one of southern Burgundy’s most thoughtful and passionate winemakers.

GUEST GRAPE: PINOT NOIR 19

We make no apologies for the generous helping of pinot noir in this List. It reflects the benefits of spadework, rather than guesswork in the world outside Burgundy, though Burgundy is included too. A mixed case offers a truly international selection taking in Italy’s Adige Valley, Tasmania and Oregon.

A VIN FOR ALL SEASONS 20

The bounty of autumn drives the second of our seasonal fine wine and food features, with a cross-section of bottles from this List selected specifically with game, roots and autumn fruits in mind, plus a rather radical cheeseboard option.

TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED 22

A ‘last word’ about fine wines with something of a story about them. Some refuse to fit in boxes, others break the mould completely and yet others are relatively normal, but brand new discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way!

The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden produce for the red carpet of the harvest festival and, if they’re serious about it, pickling, bottling and preserving it all for posterity. It’s the bottling, in particular, that interests us at The Society, and when it comes to grapes, it’s one form of self-sufficiency we can’t possibly encourage. With so many experts on hand in this List alone, from Austria to Australasia and a prime collection of Fine Wine Champions to be unveiled, we humbly suggest members sit back and admire our hand-picked harvest instead. Bringing it home is, of course, our speciality. Janet Wynne Evans, Fine Wine Editor

Page 3: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

3For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

CHAMPAGNE BOIZEL A FAMILY JEWELEvelyne Boizel is the fifth generation of her family to run this Champagne house in the heart of Epernay. Her husband Christophe Roque makes the wine and son Florent sells it around the world. Delicacy and lightness of touch describe the house style. Earlier this year The Wine Society was given the rare opportunity to taste through a selection of Boizel’s museum wines, encompassing older vintage Champagnes and including several mature wines from the house’s prestige Joyau range. The best of these is offered below: naturally stocks are rare so we recommend early ordering. Pierre Mansour

BOIZEL JOYAU DE FRANCE VERTICAL CASE £229A very special limited-edition case from Boizel’s archives, packed in wood at the property and including notes by Evelyne Boizel. Drink or store for the next 12 months.

A three-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Boizel Joyau de France 2000Boizel Joyau de France 1995Boizel Joyau de France 1989

ref M-MX15146

M-CH461 Boizel Brut Réserve NV £27 bottle £135 per six

A charming and chic brut Champagne which is the perfect aperitif and the perfect introduction to the fine, delicate quality of Boizel. The blend, from as many as 50 different vineyards including many premiers and grands crus, is dominated by 55% pinot noir with 30% chardonnay and a little pinot meunier. 12%

M-CH1891 Boizel Rosé Brut NV £35 bottle £175 per six

The secret to this deliciously full and fruity pink Champagne is the addition of red wine from very ripe pinot noir to the final blend. 12%

M-CH3071 Boizel Grand Vintage 2007 £45 bottle £270 per six

Real finesse here. The 2007 vintage is elegant and creamy in texture. A stylish vintage Champagne which is 50% pinot noir, 40% chardonnay and 10% pinot meunier. Now to 2022. 12%

M-CH2211 Boizel Brut Millésimé 2002 £49 bottle £294 per six

Boizel made a brilliant 2002 vintage which combines weight and charm to perfection. Mostly pinot noir with a third chardonnay and a small amount of pinot meunier, this has depth and purity of flavour. Drink this year. 12% Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 21.

M-CH2981 Boizel Joyau de France 2000 £65 bottle £390 per six

Only made in the best years, Joyau spends a minimum of ten years ageing on lees. The distinguished 2000 is graceful, mineral and biscuity, showing wonderful savoury flavours from the time on lees, and gentle, integrated bubbles. Drink this year and next. 12%

M-CH3081 Boizel Joyau de France 1995 £79 bottle £474 per six

A beautifully aromatic vintage Champagne, disgorged in 2013 and tasted by The Wine Society in 2015. It flows effortlessly across the palate and is lovely now to 2020. 12%

M-CH3091 Boizel Joyau de France 1989 £85 bottle £510 per six

The complex, fully mature 1989, is integrated and smooth with intricate notes of nuts, toast and honey. This dry, mature Champagne would work really well with scallops or veal. Now to 2017. 12%

6 for 5 price

6 for 5 price

Page 4: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

4 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

COMMUNING WITH CLARET SAINT-EMILION, SAINT-JULIEN & PESSAC-LEOGNANIt’s hard to find three communes that showcase more effectively the diversity of Bordeaux. Saint-Emilion, on the right bank, combines the fragrant red-fruit charm and suppleness of merlot and freshness of cabernet franc. Saint-Julien has muscle tone to rival that of Pauillac, but tempered by a layer of lush upholstery. Pessac-Léognan demonstrates the upstanding but generous side of cabernet sauvignon. All these fine ambassadors for their respective communes are ready to drink, with time in hand. Joanna Locke MW

M-CS7351 Château Puy-Blanquet, Saint-Emilion 2009 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

Long popular with Society members, Puy-Blanquet has 20 hectares of vines in the commune of Saint-Etienne-de-Lisse planted with 75% merlot, 15% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon. The wine is mostly aged in vat, with 20% in partly new barrels. Always attractively fresh, accessible and charming, it is especially rich and generous in this fine vintage. Now to 2019. 13.5%

M-CM16751 Château Ferran, Pessac-Léognan 2010 £17 bottle £204 dozen

Not to be confused with Château Ferrande in the wider Graves, this smart property was owned and planted in the 18th century by local boy and eminent philosopher Charles de Secondat de Montesquieu. Family owned for five generations now, it has benefited from generous and good investment, and the wines are delicious. A merlot-dominated blend with about a third cabernet, this is harmonious, supple claret, already approachable and showing the class of a terrific vintage. Now to 2020. 14%

M-CM12981 Hortevie, Saint-Julien 2008 £21 bottle £252 dozen

The vines of this ‘châteauless château’ adjoin those of Ducru-Beaucaillou, and the Borie family, proprietors of the latter, acquired it in 2006 along with the Terrey-Gros-Caillou estate of which it formed part. There is still no château, either on the property or the label, but considerable polish has been added to what was already a consistently good wine. The blend is 60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot. Delicious already, its sweet fruit and solid foundation promise a good, long life. Now to 2024. 13%

M-CS9441 Château Tertre Daugay, Saint-Emilion 2007 £21 bottle £252 dozen

An historic classed growth property with a commanding position and fine terroir, since bought by Domaine Clarence Dillon (Château Haut Brion et al) and renamed Château Quintus. A silky and charming Saint-Emilion showing real finesse and pedigree in this more forward vintage. Now to 2018. 13%

M-CM12401 Château Gruaud Larose, Saint-Julien 2007 £42 bottle £504 dozen

Owner Jacques Merlaut has invested significantly in this estate which is superbly placed on the inland plateau of Saint-Julien. Accounting for almost three-quarters of the blend, cabernet is the driving force here, with a fifth merlot and a dash each of cabernet franc and petit verdot. We were delighted to discover in 2007 one of the best recent vintages for this château. This is powerful and full with extra finesse and freshness of fruit and bags of flavour, just opening up now, but with ten years in hand. Now to 2025. 12.5%

M-CM12411 Château Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan 2007 £47 bottle £564 dozen

A great estate owned for many years by the Sanders family, but sold in 1998 to American Robert Willmers, who employs Véronique Sanders, granddaughter of the previous owner, to manage the domaine. Willmers has totally rebuilt the cellars and improved selection in the vineyard and the wine is finer than ever. Always long on finesse, this elegant blend of 70% cabernet sauvignon, 26% merlot and 4% cabernet franc has the beautifully rounded fruit of a forward and very charming vintage. Delicious now, and for some time to come. Now to 2023. 12.5%

The pretty town of Saint-Emilion

Page 5: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

5For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

SMALL WONDERSFINE WINES AT £20 AND UNDER Small Wonders is perhaps the most eloquent expression of The Society’s fine wine focus, not on big names, collectible labels or investment potential but on super quality and genuine excitement, wherever our buyers find it.

It always results in an eclectic mix which this time includes two very different sauvignons, two contrasting rieslings and a stunning Tuscan vermentino. Among the reds, Bulgaria, Lebanon and Greece join Spain and there is plenty of varietal variety from Bordelais cabernet franc to Kiwi syrah. For dessert, build up from the gentle charms of a late-harvest Tokaji to Telmo Rodríguez’ remarkable unfortified muscat from the Costa del Sol, of all places. All these delights are to be had at £20 or under – in some cases well under. Small wonder that these are the Fine Wine List’s more visited pages.

WHITEM-PW5101 Niepoort Dócil, Vinho Verde 2014 £10.95 bottle £131 dozen

What to do when a Small Wonder is also a Champion? The obvious answer it to celebrate with a chilled glass of it. The latest vintage of Dirk Niepoort’s masterly vinho verde replicated the success of the 2012 before it, winning its place with ease. Based on the loureiro grape, it’s youthful and fragrant, with a cool poise that makes it very gastronomic. Drink this year and next. 11% See the rest of our Fine Wine Champions on page 9.

M-IT19931 Vermentino Solosole, Poggio al Tesoro 2013 £11.50 bottle £138 dozen

A great find from Tuscany and a stunning example of the vermentino grape with its floral and fruity perfume of white flowers, apricot and tropical fruits. The vines grow in Bolgheri, on south-western slopes. The sparkling Tyrrhenian sea is nearby, and prestigious neighbours include Ornellaia. From such an idyllic location comes a full, yet fresh white with plenty of zip, the perfect foil for spicy Thai dishes. Now to 2017. 14.5%

M-NZ7791 Dog Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

This boutique sauvignon almost needs no introduction, such is its popularity. For members who have yet to sample it, it’s made by Ivan Sutherland and James Healy in an elegant, almost old world style that nevertheless packs enough of the passionfruit and ripe-pear notes that sing of Marlborough. Tight in structure and long on the finish, it’s one of The Society’s most sought-after Kiwi sauvignons, and very much a Small Wonder in terms of value. Now to 2018. 13.5%

M-SP10201 Fefiñanes Albariño, Rías Baixas 2014 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

This historic bodega was the first to bottle a single-varietal albariño, back in 1928. The wines here are every bit as elegant as Juan Gil, the current Marqués de Fefiñanes, whose atmospheric cellars in the heart of Cambados are bordered by some of the oldest, most gnarled albariño vines in Galicia. This albariño always stands out in blind tastings for its focus and structure, its vibrant, peachy fruit and mineral zip. Now to 2017. 12.5%

M-AU17711 Geoff Weaver Lenswood Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2014 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

A fine example of the elegance that can be achieved in South Australia with low-yielding sauvignon blanc and a cool spot. In this case that spot is Lenswood in the Adelaide Hills, where the unirrigated vines are planted on fairly barren soils and have to dig deep for nutrients. The result is great concentration that expresses itself in deceptively gentle grapefruit and lemon flavours lifted by fresh acidity. A restrained and very sophisticated sauvignon with a refreshingly modest degree of alcohol. Drink now and next year. 12%

M-GE8691 Josephshöfer Riesling Spätlese, von Kesselstatt 2008 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Strategically placed between two great vineyards, Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Graacher Domprobst, and owned outright by von Kesselstatt, Josephshöfer comprises fewer than four hectares of prime Mosel slate and delivers mouthwatering rieslings. After seven years in bottle this is just coming into its own with lovely fresh bloom to the bouquet and full rounded palate. Ethereal enough to enjoy as an aperitif, it also has the stuffing for roast pork, especially the crackling. Now to 2023. 7.5%

Page 6: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

6 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

WHITEM-LO11231 La Pucelle de Romorantin, Henry et Jean-Sébastien Marionnet 2013 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Cuttings from one of the oldest vineyards in France – romorantin vines planted in 1850 – have blossomed into healthy young vines, producing their first crop in 2010. The wine has the rapier backbone of acidity typical of the grape, here with a citrus tang and long, mineral aftertaste. Savour it with luxurious seafood like oysters or Dover sole, or try it with a goat’s cheese tart. Quite extraordinary, and long-lived too. Now to 2023. 11.5%

M-AA1661 Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen

Straddling the Danube in a most picturesque way, the Wachau valley is prime wine-growing as well as tourist territory. Within it lies Loibenberg, where Rainer Wess’s vineyard is at 450m above sea level, on steep slopes. The soil is poor and thin, forcing the vines to drill into the bedrock. The warmer 2012 vintage has produced riesling in a broader style with ripe lemon, pear and white pepper on the palate, and notes of peach as the wine opens up in the glass. Perfect charcuterie wine. Drink now and next year. 13%

SMALL WONDERS

SMALL WONDERWHITES CASE £88Drink now or store for the next 12 months

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Vermentino Bolgheri Solosole Poggio al Tesoro 2013Fefiñanes Albariño, Rías Baixas 2014Geoff Weaver Lenswood Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2014La Pucelle de Romorantin, Henry et Jean-Sébastien Marionnet 2013Rainer Wess Loibenberg Riesling 2012Niepoort Dócil Vinho Verde 2014

ref M-MX15154

DESSERTM-SP8701 MR Mountain Wine, Málaga 2010 50cl £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

Produced by Telmo Rodríguez from vineyards at 700m in the hills behind the bustling resort, this is world-class unfortified muscat, pale yellow in colour with a seductively heady bouquet, luscious, honeyed palate and a finish as fresh as a mountain stream. It has a very particular affinity with pear-based desserts. Drink now and next year. 13.5% 50cl Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 21.

M-HU941 Royal Tokaji Late Harvest Pure Furmint 2013 50cl £19 bottle £228 dozen

A modern take on Tokaji, with fragrant, honeyed aromas of healthy grapes and natural sweetness tempered by lovely fresh fruit acidity. Try this with figs, fresh or baked with a drop of honey or a strawberry gratin topped with cream and brown sugar and caramelised under the grill. It makes a delicious aperitif too. Now to 2019. 10% 50cl

Page 7: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

7For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

REDM-CB4071 Château de Pitray Cuvée Cabernet Franc, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011 £11.95 bottle £143 dozen

Château de Pitray is not only owned and run by the de Boigne family, it’s also their home. It’s always been a good and consistent source of delicious and long-lasting claret, and this rare monovarietal bottling, exclusive to Society members, reflects the exceptional quality of cabernet franc in the otherwise challenging 2011 vintage. Fuller and fleshier than a Loire cabernet, this is fresh but round and brambly, with fine, supple tannins. Now to 2020. 14.5%

M-LO11351 Chinon ‘Pierre de Tuf’, Domaine de la Noblaie 2012 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Young Jérôme Billard trained with Moueix in Bordeaux and California, and later in New Zealand, before returning to the family’s Loire estate with a fresh outlook but a great respect for the integrity of Chinon’s grape, cabernet franc, working organically, reducing maceration time and handling the carefully selected fruit more gently. This fine cuvée is vinified in an ancient limestone vat then matured in double barriques, all of which Jérôme believes softens Chinon’s sometimes gruff exterior. Fragrant, richly berried and silky, and a fine advertisement for sustainable viticulture. Now to 2018. 12.5%

M-AU17681 Leeuwin Siblings Margaret River Shiraz 2012 £13.50 bottle £162 dozen

New from Leeuwin, with whom we associate premium bottles for very special occasions, the Siblings range is for more relaxed enjoyment and, as such, a perfect Small Wonder. This soft, velvety Western Australian shiraz has echoes of the Rhône, with abundant blackberry and plum aromas lifted by pepper and anise and balanced by fine acidity. Now to 2018. 14%

M-SP10481 Tomàs Cusiné Geol, Costers del Segre 2012 £13.95 bottle £167 dozen

Crafted with typical precision by Spanish rising star Tomàs Cusiné, this is an impressive blend of cariñena, merlot and cabernet from Costers del Segre in Catalunya. A powerful, yet supremely elegant and beautifully scented red of depth and complexity. Now to 2022. 14.5%

M-LE701 Château Ksara 2011 £15.50 bottle £186 dozen

Ksara’s main estate wine, made from cabernet sauvignon (60%), merlot (30%) and petit verdot (10%), is exceptional in 2011. Fragrant, spicy and plummy, this has lovely lush fruit and is beautifully balanced. A wine made in the claret style but with a Lebanese twist. Now to 2020. 13.5%

M-SP10601 Valderiz, Ribera del Duero 2010 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Tomàs Esteban and his family manage 60 hectares of vineyard in Roa, the prime area in Ribera del Duero for growing grapes. This 100% tempranillo is a modern blockbuster red with layers of fruit and a powerful, bold finish. Its time in new French and American oak has endowed it with a polished, sensuous feel. The 2010 was awarded the top accolade of ‘Outstanding’ by Decanter magazine. Now to 2021. 14.5%

M-SP8601 Domaines Lupier El Terroir Garnacha, Navarra 2009 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Young couple Enrique Basarte and Elisa Úcar are behind this new wine from very old vines, dating back to 1903. These were painstakingly selected using SIGPAC (a Spanish vineyard-mapping programme) in what can be considered a work of viticultural archaeology, and produced just 40,000 bottles of beautifully structured and layered Spanish garnacha with serious, complex flavours. Decant an hour or two before serving. Now to 2019. 14%

M-NZ8381 Craggy Range Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2013 £17.50 bottle £210 dozen

The Gimblett Gravels of New Zealand’s Hawke’s Bay add the insulating benefits of stony, alluvial soils to the cool, oceanic climate. The area is relatively small and sought-after. This delicious North Island syrah demonstrates why, with notes of blackcurrant, pepper and leather on the nose and palate, a lick of oak from a stint in partially renewed French barriques and a striking freshness that keeps it perfectly balanced. Now to 2019. 13%

M-NZ6891 Mount Koinga Central Otago Pinot Noir 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen

A joint project between The Society and Paul Pujol of Prophet’s Rock, this members’ exclusive is a fine-flavoured and silky single-vineyard New Zealand pinot from well-insulated, free-draining soils in the warm Pisa sub-region of Central Otago. Exuberantly ripe and succulent, but elegant and smooth. Now to 2017. 13.5%

Page 8: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

8 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

SMALL WONDER REDS CASE £82Drink or store to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Melnik Noble Logodaj 2008 Château de Pitray Cuvée Cabernet Franc, Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux 2011Leeuwin Siblings Margaret River Shiraz 2012Tomàs Cusiné Geol, Costers del Segre 2012Chateau Ksara 2011Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007

ref M-MX15153

REDM-IT17891 Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007 £18 bottle £216 dozen

The sagrantino grape is a true Italian original with heaps of flavour and attitude, and when handled well, as in this bold and generous Umbrian red, both mighty and impressive. The splendidly ripe 2007 vintage delivers rich layers of mulberry fruit to cover the natural tannin. Ageing in barrel and bottle has encouraged complexity, adding hints of chocolate, coffee and autumnal scents. The alcohol level is perfectly in balance. Now to 2020. 15.5% Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 21.

M-GR871 Earth and Sky Naoussa Thymiopoulos 2012 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen

Earth and Sky is made from 40-year-old xynomavro bush vines, grown in central Macedonia by Apostolos Thymiopoulos. He hates agrichemicals and synthetic fertilisers, and loves the world’s great reds, from Barolo to Burgundy. This stunning and sophisticated wine has a gorgeous bouquet of fragrant red fruits, strawberry and violet, and a seductively sweet but structured palate reminiscent of the Côte de Nuits. Now to 2021. 14%

M-IT19311 Ripassa Valpolicella Superiore, Zenato 2010 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Between casual Valpolicella and meditational Amarone lies the ripasso style, wherein the former is added to the remains of the dried grapes pressed for the latter. A second fermentation ensues and the result is a supercharged Valpolicella of gorgeous richness and body. The blend is majority corvina, aged for 18 months in large oak casks and it’s a finer bottle than many a much pricier Amarone. To set it apart, Zenato choose to call it ripassa, the female of the species clearly having more finesse. Now to 2018. 14%

M-US5691 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Bright blackcurrant and mocha notes on the nose and an intense black-fruit and vanilla core define this Sonoma cabernet, with ripe, chewy tannins and pure fresh acidity keeping its exuberance in check. This wine has elegance as well as power, which should allow it to age beautifully if you can resist its youthful charms. Now to 2025. 14.5% Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 21.

Melnik Noble Logodaj 2008 Making its debut in Small Wonders, Bulgaria’s indigenous melnik grape shows its class and

ability to age in this ripe and multi-layered red from the Struma valley, close to the Greek border. Lovely mature fruit, overlaid with hints of chocolate and black pepper and the mellowing effects of a year in wood, make this, in buyer Sebastian Payne’s words, an ‘eye-opener’. Drink now and next year. 14% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15153.

SMALL WONDERS

Page 9: thewinesociety.com/finewines · 2015. 7. 27. · discoveries members need to know about. Explorers, step this way! The self-sufficient among us will be busy foraging, grooming garden

9For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

WHITEM-LO11831 The Society’s Exhibition Sancerre 2014 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

The sauvignon blanc tasting sessions are among the last, and probably the most taxing of the Champions campaign. European tank samples are often surly, and there’s a lot of acid about (not just in the wines). It’s very gratifying to find an Exhibition bottling that’s not merely sociable but disarming. This classic and refined sauvignon blanc comes from the Loire’s Central Vineyards and the super-reliable Franck Laloue, whose wines are good even in lesser vintages, and really shine in good Loire years such as 2014. Now to 2018. 13%

M-PW5141 Anselmo Mendes Contacto Alvarinho, Vinho Verde 2014 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

Looking at the three vinhos verdes on this year’s Champions’ podium, it seems incredible that this wine first arrived on our shores as unauthentically sweetened spritz for simple quaffing. The elegant flint and precision of this bottling by Anselmo Mendes is a world away. The grape is alvarinho, given added structure and body by extended ‘contacto’ with the grape skins. The 2013 vintage was a Champion last year, so an impressive record. Now to 2018. 13%

M-BU54701 Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis 2012 £16 bottle £192 dozen

Domaine Fèvre is no stranger to Wine Champion success and this year it didn’t even need to be a premier cru to score top marks in an outstanding field. The panel adored the classic, steely minimalism of this village wine with remarkable length and depth for its place in the Chablisian scheme of things. Lithe, lemony and expressive. Now to 2020. 12.5%

M-AR3201 Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2012 £18 bottle £216 dozen

A roaring victory for this thrilling Argentine chardonnay, from a selection of the best vines of an outstanding vineyard that lies at 1,450m in the foothills of the Andes. Tropical and rich but also pure and focused, with admirable length of flavour, it will be even better for 20 minutes in a decanter before serving, to develop the flavours. Now to 2017. 14%

M-NZ7531 Prophet’s Rock Central Otago Riesling 2010 £19 bottle £228 dozen

A first Champions success for Paul Pujol’s aristocratic South Island riesling, stylistically inspired by his stint as winemaker at Kuentz-Bas in Alsace. We especially admired its evolved flavours of intense lime, the result of a long, warm slow-ripening autumn, its racy acidity and modest alcohol. Beautifully mature. Now to 2018. 12%

M-NZ7581 Cloudy Bay Marlborough Chardonnay 2012 £22 bottle £264 dozen

The sauvignon always gets all the press, so bravo for the excellent, if overshadowed chardonnay produced by this legendary Kiwi estate. Up against some stiff competition, it opened its account with exuberant bursts of citrus and apple, and a flash of toasty vanilla, denoting some perfectly judged barrel ageing. Crisp, mouthwatering acidity and a lovely underlying minerality kept it on a tight and elegant leash. Lovely. Now to 2018. 13.5%

M-BU54931 Domaine Marc Colin, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Créots 2012 £27 bottle £324 dozen

Our chosen Côte d’Or Burgundy comes from a vineyard tucked away in a valley behind the grand cru Le Montrachet, and is some considerable way behind the latter in terms of price. Saint-Aubin always offers value for money, but think of this one more as a baby Puligny as, indeed, many of the panel did before sight of the label, bewitched by the malic, fragrant aromas, tightly knit palate and touch of very classy barrel. Now to 2017. 13.5% Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 20.

FINE WINE CHAMPIONSThe Buying Team’s annual quest for instant gratification this year encompassed a record number of wines (almost 700) all tasted blind without fear or favour, in order to pinpoint perfect readiness to drink at any price. For our premium bottles, whose drink windows must approximate a plateau of pleasurable stability, somewhere between screeching teenage angst and declining powers, the exercise is especially useful.

Our 15th Fine Wine Champions reveal that chardonnay rules yet again, though riesling put up a magnificent showing too, that there’s never been a better time to enjoy syrah, and that Bordeaux and new world cabernet are on a roll. Our men of the match are below, with three mixed cases to relish. Some wines that are very limited in stock are reserved for these in the interests of fair distribution.

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10 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

DESSERTM-BW4062 Half bottle of Château Raymond-Lafon, Sauternes 2010 £13.50 half bottle £162 dozen

This near-perfect Sauternes continues to impress, both in comparative tastings of the vintage, and now in the more exacting conditions of Wine Champions. If it lacks the kudos of premier cru, having arrived on the scene a whisker too late for the 1855 Classification, it is every inch the first-growth on the palate. The blend is four-fifths semillon with sauvignon blanc. Spicy, aromatic, luscious and fine with wonderful length of flavour. Now to 2035. 13.5% Find the food connection in A Vin for all Seasons on page 21.

REDM-AU16961 Tahbilk Nagambie Lakes Central Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 £11.95 bottle £143 dozen

Tahbilk’s whites are frequent Champions, but this year the estate’s cabernet made its mark with one of the very best wines we tasted in a highly competitive new world section. No shortage of black-fruit seductiveness on the palate, but discreet cedary undertones and long, fine tannins signal the presence of a serious mouthful. Decant an hour before serving to maximize the pleasure. Now to 2018. 13.5%

M-SP9951 The Society’s Exhibition Rioja Reserva 2008 £12.95 bottle £155 dozen

There is always a Rioja on the podium and this year was no exception, with an Exhibition label to boot. The Society’s Exhibition wines are designed to reflect the subtleties of a defined region, and, as in this case, an established ageing protocol. Made for us at La Rioja Alta, it’s matured for five years before release, longer than the rules require. A traditional wine from a cooler vintage, displaying intense, vivacious fruit and a silky texture. Benchmark stuff. Now to 2018. 13.5%

M-BU48871 Domaine de Bellene, Clos Bardot Bourgogne Rouge Pinot Noir £12.95 bottle £155 dozen Vieilles Vignes 2010 A complete charmer of a Burgundy, from a very well-situated vineyard in Comblanchien,

adjacent to the Nuits commune of Prémeaux. Youthful but ready, and brimful of attractive black-cherry fruit, held in check by ripe tannins. Drink this year and next. 12.5%

M-RH37491 Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages l’Authentique, Domaine Delubac 2009 £16 bottle £192 dozen

One of the prime spots of the southern Côtes, Cairanne is rich in Champion potential. In this year’s excellent turn-out for syrah, the Delubacs’ flagship cuvée, with 50% in the blend – the rest is grenache – blew us all away with its rich, exuberant fruit, opulent, but in complete harmony with fine tannins and vital acidity. Persistent and impressive. Now to 2020. 15%

M-CS6821A Château de La Dauphine, Fronsac 2007 £17 bottle £204 dozen

A blend of 80% merlot with 20% cabernet franc, La Dauphine is a perennial hit with members. We can report from the Champions front line that the 2007 is absolutely perfect now – deliciously mature, sumptuous in texture and packed with pure, dark-red fruit, lifted by delicate acidity. We felt justified in extending the drink window to 2018. 13%

M-RH36951 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, Domaine Combier 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen

You have to hand it to Maurice Combier (and we did, this year) who, for many years was considered quite mad for going organic. He wanted his wine to stand out from the crowd and it still does under the management of son Laurent. This is northern Rhône syrah at its dark, fruity, savoury best, oozing finesse as well as flavour. It showed like a dream on the day and will surely continue to do so on many more days to come. Now to 2019. 12.5%.

FINE WINE CHAMPIONS

FINE WINE CHAMPION CHARDONNAYS CASE £109Drink now or store to 2017

A six-bottle case containing two bottles each of the following wines:

Domaine William Fèvre, Chablis 2012Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2012 Cloudy Bay Chardonnay 2012

ref M-MX15147

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11For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

M-AR3141 Zaha Red Blend Mendoza 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

We all marvelled at the star quality of this Argentine blend of 78% malbec and 22% cabernet from the high, cool vineyards of Altamira in Mendoza’s Uco Valley. ZaHa, to spell it correctly in the Huarpe language, means ‘heart’ and this has a huge and generous one that deserves a top-notch prime rib. Now to 2022. 14%

M-CE7591 Gandolini Las Tres Marias Vineyards Maipo Andes Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 £23 bottle £276 dozen

A Champion for the second year in a row, and still only in its maiden vintage, Stefano Gandolini’s finely wrought cabernet is a poster boy for the Maipo Valley and the finesse and complexity of the new Chile. Considered the Médoc of Chile, its alluvial soils provide essential drainage and insulation. Three exceptional vineyard sites combine to produce this opulent and complex red, a blend of 90% cabernet with cabernet franc, petit verdot and petite sirah. Even better now than it was a year ago. Now to 2026. 14%

M-CM16391 Marquise d’Alesme, Margaux 2009 £25 bottle £300 dozen

The second wine of third growth Château Marquis d’Alesme Becker bewitched us all over again in this outstanding Bordeaux vintage. For the second year running, it delivered all you’d expect from a Margaux of distinction: subtle, fragrant nose, smooth, silky palate and satisfying length. A real charmer and perfectly ready. Now to 2018. 13.5%

M-RH37591 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mourre de Perdrix, Domaine de Charbonnière 2009 £29 bottle £348 dozen

A heartwarming Châteauneuf from a sun-drenched vintage has a clear advantage in a cold tasting room in the dead of winter. Perhaps not surprisingly, the panel awarded this top marks, but not out of gratitude. A blend of grenache, syrah and mourvèdre, this rich, full-bodied single-vineyard red will be perfect with the first of the game. Now to 2024. 15.5%

M-BU47481 Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin en Pallud 2009 £42 bottle £504 dozen

An immediately unanimous Champion that won maximum points from all present. ‘Proper job!’ ‘belter!’ and ‘sumptuous’ were all words deployed to describe this perfect Côte de Nuits Burgundy from a lovely vintage and tiny plots of older, lower-yielding vines. Impeccably behaved with abundant forest fruits overlaying its complexity and undoubted focus. Job done. Now to 2020. 13%

M-CM15721 Château Ferrière, Margaux 2002 £45 bottle £540 dozen

Not only the surprise standout wine of a comparative tasting of classed growths of the vintage, but a clear Champion in two separate blind sessions! With true, fine, cedary Margaux bouquet and impressive cabernet class and length of flavour, this has really started to blossom, and will continue in fine fettle for the next five years. Now to 2020. 13%

M-CM13581 Château Phélan Ségur, Saint-Estèphe 1996 £47 bottle £564 dozen

That this beautifully balanced claret has reached a plateau of perfection was apparent to all, both at the initial claret sessions and the final taste-off in this year’s Champions campaign. The fine fruit of a great cabernet year, now mature and silky, is much in evidence with just over half of the blend, and the merlot provides richness and charm. A super Saint-Estèphe of depth, power and finesse, and a joy to drink now and next year. 12.5%

M-BU47491 Domaine Maume, Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux-Saint-Jacques £75 bottle £900 dozen 2009 It was a cracking vintage (Champions and calendar) for this Domaine. Maume’s Lavaux is

nothing short of magnificent: focused, integrated and long, full but never flashy, with sous-bois flavours really coming through on the nose and deep black-cherry fruit on the palate. ‘A fine autumn day in a glass,’ as one taster summed it up. Now to 2022. 13.5%

M-RH25431 Hermitage Rouge, Domaine Jean-Louis Chave 2007 £135 bottle It’s hard not to spot the breathtaking finesse and complex layering of a Chave Hermitage

in a blind tasting. The surprise was how delicious this vintage is now, just at the beginning of its drink window – ‘not merely stirring but ready,’ as one taster put it. Such discoveries are, of course, the point of Wine Champions. This delivers lovely notes of Provence herbs and black olives, overlaying enormous depth and concentration. Now to 2028. 14% Three bottles only per member.

Undurraga TH Las Gaviotas San Antonio Pinot Noir 2012 Achieving Championship status in a first vintage is a fair achievement by any standards, and

– see Gandolini’s Tres Marias above – a Chilean speciality. Locking horns with Burgundy, New Zealand and other seasoned practitioners of this tricky grape, this beautifully crafted and very serious pinot noir scored highly for its cherry-fruited concentration and fine, mineral edge. Now to 2018. 14% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15156.

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12 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

FINE WINE CHAMPION REDS CASE £88Drink now or store to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

The Society’s Exhibition Rioja Reserva 2008Cairanne Côtes-du-Rhône Villages l’Authentique, Domaine Delubac 2009 Undurraga TH Las Gaviotas San Antonio Pinot Noir 2012Tahbilk Nagambie Lakes Central Victoria Cabernet Sauvignon 2009Max, Stellenbosch 2008 Crozes-Hermitage Rouge, Domaine Combier 2012

ref M-MX15156

WORLD-CLASS FINE WINE CHAMPIONS CASE £142Drink now or store to 2018

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Château de La Dauphine, Fronsac 2007Zaha Blend Mendoza 2011Gandolini Las Tres Marias Vineyards Maipo Andes Cabernet Sauvignon 2011Marquise d’Alesme, Margaux 2009Saint-Joseph Tilde, Domaine Pierre-Jean Villa 2011Châteauneuf-du-Pape Mourre de Perdrix, Domaine de Charbonnière 2009

ref M-MX15157

FINE WINE CHAMPIONS

RED Max, Stellenbosch 2008 A blind-tasting triumph for ace winemaker Miles Mossop, whose Bordeaux-inspired blend

of cabernet sauvignon with roughly equal shares of petit verdot and merlot impressed with its plush fruit and impressive length. The wine is named in honour of Miles’ son Maximilian. A real Cape classic, gorgeous now, and with plenty of time in hand. Now to 2020. 14% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15156.

Saint-Joseph Tilde, Domaine Pierre-Jean Villa 2011 Pierre-Jean Villa’s career took off at Clos de Tart, and he still keeps a hand in Burgundy

as well as running a boutique estate in the northern Rhône. His main focus is Saint-Joseph, a commune that performed impressively in this year’s Wine Champions. This supple, well-judged expression of 40-year-old syrah vines is a lovely compote of easy-going red and black fruit with poise and class that persisted to the finish. Now to 2021. 13% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15156.

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M-LR121 Warner Edwards Harrington Sloe Gin 70cl £29 bottle £348 dozen

A base of Harrington Dry, blushing furiously with hand-gathered sloes for some of the most glamorous, fruity purple-tinged summer-evening cocktails imaginable. Serve a measure in a flute, topped with dry sparkling wine, Tom Collins style, with lemon and soda or with dry white vermouth in a shameless pink Martini. 30%

M-GN181 Warner Edwards Elderflower Infused Gin 70cl £32 bottle £384 dozen

Made in small vintage-dated batches from English and Welsh elderflower and spring water, this lovely muscat-scented gin is delicious ice-cold with a little sparkling elderflower, a wafer-thin cucumber ribbon and a little mint. Cool and classy. 40%

M-GN171 Warner Edwards Victoria’s Rhubarb Gin 70cl £32 bottle £384 dozen

Harrington Dry blended with gently pressed rhubarb juice and a pinch of sugar for a perfectly piquant, distinctive gin. The royal connection here is the provenance of the rhubarb, a Crown Estate, where it’s grown, as it would have been in a Victorian potager, entirely without agrichemicals. An exotic but very British slant on a gin and tonic, but rhubarb and ginger get on famously, so try this in a classic gin and ginger beer cocktail too. 40%

M-GN141 Warner Edwards Harrington Dry Gin 70cl £32.75 bottle £393 dozen

Hints of elderflower, ginger and spices lift this smooth, rich, handcrafted gin. Serve simply with tonic and a slice of lime, shake into a Martini or stir into a proper home-mixed fruit cup that really cheers. 44%

THE WARNER EDWARDSCOLLECTION £89A three-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following:

Warner Edwards Elderflower Infused Gin 70clWarner Edwards Victoria’s Rhubarb Gin 70clWarner Edwards Harrington Dry Gin 70cl

ref M-MX15145

SPIRIT OF THE AGEWARNER EDWARDS GIN Time was, gin was gin but it’s no longer that simple. The battle of the brands rages unabated and Mother is not so much ruined as spoiled for choice. How relaxing to find two young distillers who believe in retaining that simplicity. We’ll never know the winning formula of herbs and spices that Siôn Edwards and Tom Warner have hit upon in their Northamptonshire distillery but we don’t need to. The crisp, clean lines of Harrington Dry are a breath of fresh air and there’s none of that reducing of alcoholic strength to keep costs down. Sitting comfortably in the sweet spot between effete and export-grade outrageous, they make their mark. The flavoured gins will pep up any number of classic cocktails. Mark Buckenham

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14 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

REDM-AL8641 Pinot Noir Jubilee, Hugel 2009 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Marc Hugel has reduced the amount of barrel ageing in his reds and as a result, they are less tannic and much more attractive. The Jubilee comes from Hugel’s own vines in Riquewihr. Concentrated, very rich and full-flavoured. Now to 2018. 14%

M-AL8651 Pinot Noir Jubilee ‘Les Neveux’, Hugel 2009 £32 bottle £384 dozen

The older generation in the family never quite believed in pinot noir and this cuvée exists almost as a wager from the younger generation of nephews to prove a point. From a specific plot in the limestone-rich Pflostig vineyard, Les Neveux appears only in exceptional years: 2009 is its third vintage since 1990. It is very concentrated, yet without any harsh tannins. Instead there is just a huge amount of very ripe fruit. Outstanding. Now to 2020. 14.5%

WHITE AND SWEETM-AL10171 Riesling Tradition, Hugel 2011 £14.95 bottle £179 dozen

‘Tradition’ is an estate riesling, much of it coming from the Schoenenbourg vineyard overlooking Riquewihr. Very ripe and full-bodied in 2011 yet for all that perfectly balanced, dry with a salty, mineral flavour. Now to 2020. 14%

M-AL9031 Riesling Jubilee, Hugel 2009 £21 bottle £252 dozen

Jubilee Riesling also comes from Schoenenbourg, but from older vines on better-exposed slopes. The 2009 vintage was marked by a hot summer and so naturally the wines are full-bodied and full-flavoured with remarkable concentration. Poised and refined with good ageing potential, this is a fine, beautifully poised riesling which will benefit from another year in bottle. Now to 2022. 13.5%

M-AL10191 Pinot Gris Jubilee, Hugel 2011 £21 bottle £252 dozen

Fragrant, very rich and wonderfully concentrated pinot gris from older vines within the Sporen and Pflostig vineyards, combining fruit from clay and limestone soils. A wonderful wine with roast goose, so keep some back for the end of the year. Now to 2022. 14.5%

ALSACE GRAND MASTERSFAMILLE HUGEL, RIQUEWIHRIf quality can’t be added in the cellar, as Johnny Hugel observed, cellars can certainly have secrets, and none more so than the labyrinth beneath the headquarters of Maison Hugel, in the heart of Riquewihr. Below, we list some of them.

Hugel are important vineyard owners, especially among the top sites in Riquewihr, and it is these great vineyards, such as the Schoenenbourg, that are behind some of Alsace’s greatest wines. At Hugel, these were originally labelled Réserve Exceptionnelle, subsequently Réserve Personnelle and, from 1989, ‘Jubilee’, to mark the house’s 350th anniversary.

This year the Hugel family decided to add to the range a new riesling which will help redefine the potential that exists in Alsace for making fine wine. It comes from a specific Schoenenbourg plot and is called Schoelhammer. In this List, we present the very first vintage, along with some mature wines from the 2011 and 2009 vintages and a number of rare nectars for which this noble house is justly famous. Marcel Orford-Williams

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M-AL7751 Gewurztraminer Hommage à Jean Hugel 1998 £25 bottle £300 dozen

Another beauty from the Sporen vineyard, where the grapes were picked at a very high degree of ripeness that would have been declared ‘vendange tardive’ in any other year. This is a selection of the best vats, made by the 12th generation of the Hugel family to mark the late and legendary Johnny Hugel’s retirement. With a touch of noble rot, this is very rich and full-bodied, mature but still vibrant. Perfect wine for Munster cheese, in fact. Drink this year and next. 13.5%

M-AL10861 Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2007 £33 bottle £396 dozen

A rich, luscious late-harvest gewurztraminer from an outstanding vintage. This is where the Hugels come into their own, taking full advantage of their plot of vines at the heart of the grand cru Sporen, which stands opposite Schoenenbourg. Now to 2022. 12.5%

M-AL12501 Riesling Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2009 £40 bottle £480 dozen

Late-harvest styles from the riesling grape are rare, the result of perfect conditions and the development of noble rot. This is full, complex with definite yet not overwhelming sweetness. Not a dessert wine but rather a wine to drink with fish or poultry served in creamy sauces, or, of course, on its own. Now to 2025. 12.5%

M-AL12521 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2008 £49 bottle £588 dozen

Stunning late–harvest pinot gris, combining sweetness and tangy freshness. Truffle and caramel with a touch of butterscotch. A tarte tatin beckons. Now to 2025. 13.5%

M-AL12511 Riesling Schoelhammer, Hugel 2007 £60 bottle £720 dozen

Hugel’s new flagship riesling, of which fewer than 5,000 bottles were made from 30 rows of old vines planted on a historic part of the Schoenenbourg slope. Dry, mineral and incredibly complex, this is perfect to drink now but will of course keep for many more years to come. Now to 2025. 13%

M-AL8491 Gewurztraminer Sélection des Grains Nobles, Hugel 2007 £109 bottle £1308 dozen

Perhaps the ultimate expression of gewurztraminer. Made from individually picked berries and in very limited quantities, this is very sweet and luscious, yet also incredibly refined. A painstaking process but the results are breathtaking. Now to 2020. 11.5%

HUGEL JUBILEE CASE £119Drink or store to 2018

A six-bottle case containing two bottles each of the following wines:

Pinot Noir Jubilee, Hugel 2009 Pinot Gris Jubilee, Hugel 2011 Riesling Jubilee, Hugel 2009

ref M-MX15149

HUGEL FAMILY NECTARS CASE £119Drink or store to 2020

A three-bottle case of rare late-harvest wines containing one bottle each of the following:

Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2007 Riesling Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2009 Pinot Gris Vendange Tardive, Hugel 2008

ref M-MX15150

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16 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

WHITEM-AU17371 Mac Forbes RS7 Strathbogie Ranges Riesling 2014 £20 bottle £240 dozen

This thirty-something year old vineyard is planted at 600m, on decomposing granite soils. A long, slow ripening delivers minute quantities of ethereal riesling with a refreshingly modest alcohol level and classic aromas of lime and lemon. Off-dry yet crisp and racy. Now to 2022. 12.6%

M-AU17831 Kooyong Farrago Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2012 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Farrago is a tiny vineyard, less than half a hectare, planted on pebbly clay and ironstone soils that deliver concentrated, complex wines. This is multilayered chardonnay, defined by its minerality and linear structure but deceptively effortless to drink. Now to 2018. 13.5%

M-AU17841 Kooyong Faultline Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2012 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Faultline, the largest Kooyong plot, produces finely textured chardonnays with a rich apple and wet-flint fragrance and lemony acidity. Sandro believes this wine takes off after five years, but decanting will help fast-forward the flavours. Now to 2020. 13.5%

REDM-AU17391 Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Mac’s Yarra pinot packs strawberry and rhubarb on the nose, very perfumed and bright. Cherry and white-pepper spice develop on the palate, overlaying fine tannins and a fresh finish. Now to 2019. 13% Find the food connection in A Vin For All Seasons on page 20.

M-AU17301 Jamsheed Moonambel Syrah 2012 £25 bottle £300 dozen

A homage to the northern Rhône, from 40-year-old vines grown in Victoria’s Pyrenees region. A high proportion of fruit is whole-bunch fermented in old oak, with wild yeasts. A swathe of flavours, from cassis to flint to black pepper, is given elegance by fine acidity and ripe tannins. Now to 2020. 13.8%

M-AU17311 Jamsheed Yarra Valley Yarra Glen Syrah 2012 £25 bottle £300 dozen Gary makes this wine from a small vineyard plot in the Yarra Valley that has an outcrop of

granite. The wine has elegance and precision, sour-cherry and blackberry notes, fine tannins and a refreshing spicy finish. Now to 2019. 13%

M-AU17141 Adam’s Rib Castagna The Red Beechworth 2010 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Made by Julian Castagna’s son Adam, this full-bodied shiraz-nebbiolo blend has a meaty, blackberry-and-pepper nose and long, rich, concentrated palate underpinned by ripe tannins, yet retains wonderful freshness. Now to 2024. 14% Low stock.

M-AU17381 Mac Forbes Woori Yallock Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 £39 bottle £468 dozen

High in the Upper Yarra Valley, Woori Yallock delivers cool, elegant pinots of precision and intensity, defined by fresh redcurrant and cranberry flavours. Delicious already, this will keep for a good while yet. Now to 2020. 13.1%

VICTORIAN VALUESAUSTRALIA’S ‘STATE OF EXCITEMENT’ Melbourne was recently voted ‘World’s Best City to Live In’ by the Daily Telegraph, and a feeling of optimism and opportunity is also evident in Victoria’s vineyards. In a new generation of passionate winemakers, Mac Forbes leads the charge for us, pushing boundaries with elegant pinots and rieslings of incredible finesse. Sandro Mosele continues his painstaking study of the subtly varying terroir of the Kooyong vineyard, sculpting some of Australia’s finest chardonnays. Jamsheed’s Gary Mills has taken old-vine single-vineyard syrah to another level of intricacy. New to The Society is Beechworth producer Julian Castagna. Decanting these wines for an hour or two will focus the heady perfumes I now associate with Victoria. Sarah Knowles

VICTORIA SPOTLIGHT CASE £155Drink or store to 2019

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Mac Forbes RS7 Strathbogie Ranges Riesling 2014Kooyong Farrago Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2012Kooyong Faultline Mornington Peninsula Chardonnay 2012

ref M-MX15151

Jamsheed Moonambel Syrah 2012Jamsheed Yarra Valley Yarra Glen Syrah 2012Adam’s Rib Castagna The Red Beechworth 2010

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17For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

M-LO11261 Pouilly-Fumé ‘Les Princes Ermites’ 2013 £13.50 bottle 162 dozen

If Château de Tracy can be said to have a second wine, this is it, ripe, fragrant and balanced, and an excellent buy for lovers of fine sauvignon blanc. Now to 2017. 13%

M-LO10601 Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2011 £18 bottle £216 dozen

The challenging conditions of 2011, in particular its cool, wet summer, are not apparent here. Poised and racy, but with plenty of stuffing. A lovely sauvignon nose, infused with citrus and blackcurrant leaf leads into a richness on the palate, perfectly offset by fresh acidity. Now to 2018. 13%

M-LO10871 Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2012 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Spring was the dampener in 2012, but a long, warm dry summer and a harvest that took place almost a month later than in 2011 has produced a stunning wine. Ripe and concentrated with layers of citrus and stone-fruit flavours, always kept in check by that trademark raciness. Now to 2019. 13%

M-LO11431 Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2013 £19 bottle £228 dozen

A smaller crop, strictly selected, and still very youthful at this stage but with the promise of a delicious blend of floral and spice notes waiting to evolve and a long, savoury finish. Again, that seam of acidity guarantees an enjoyable evolution. Leave it in peace for a year or so to get the process underway. 2016 to 2020. 13%

M-LO11441 Haute Densité du Château de Tracy 2012 £54 bottle £648 dozen

From vines planted at more than twice the usual density here, this exceptionally concentrated sauvignon is raised in wooden barrels for nine months, with full lees contact. It has a wonderful palette of white-fruit aromas and flavours culminating in a long, racy finish. Now to 2020. 13%

M-LO11451 101 Rangs, Château de Tracy 2012 £69 bottle £828 dozen

The eponymous 101 Rows are planted on clay-and-flint (silex) soils at the summit of the Tracy vineyard. Average vine age is 60 years. The grapes are very strictly selected and just 15% of the wine is matured for nine months in 500-litre oak barrels, the rest doing their time in tank with extensive lees contact. A discreetly toasty note underlies the concentration of this prestigious cuvée which, though rich and spicy, finishes dry and long. Now to 2020. 13%

LEGENDS OF THE LOIRE CHATEAU DE TRACY, POUILLY-FUMEThe Estut d’Assay family’s imposing château and fine 32-hectare estate sit at the heart of the appellation with which this name is synonymous. Leading consultant and sauvignon expert Denis Dubourdieu now guides winemaking here and his influence is demonstrable in the increased purity, raciness and lifted aromatic profile of the wines. From Princes Ermites, a real bonne affaire for fans of the taut, restrained, linear style of the domaine, to the concentration and complexity of the special parcels, 101 Rangs and Haute Densité, this is sauvignon blanc at its most poised. Joanna Locke MW

CHATEAU DE TRACY VERTICAL CASE £112Drink or store to 2017

A six-bottle case containing two bottles each of the following wines:

Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2011Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2012Pouilly-Fumé, Château de Tracy 2013

ref M-MX15148

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18 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

WHITE M-BU55721 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Les Potets 2012 £25 bottle £300 dozen

I was astonished by the quality of this wine when I first tasted it. It is fine and firm with excellent length of flavour and one of the best village white Santenays I have ever tasted. Now to 2018. 13%

M-BU55751 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire 2012 £29 bottle £348 dozen

Ripe, succulent premier cru chardonnay with a seam of lemony freshness to balance the ripeness. Now to 2018. 13%

Jean-Marc Vincent, Puligny-Montrachet Corvée des Vignes 2012 Appealing floral, honeysuckle-scented Puligny with a fresh, mineral palate and good length of

flavour for a village Puligny. Now to 2020. 13% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15152.

RED M-BU55671 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay 2012 £25 bottle £300 dozen

Gorgeous ripe, balanced Santenay from this lovely 2012 vintage, replete with all the elements to produce satisfying red Burgundy. Now to 2021. 13%

M-BU55711 Jean-Marc Vincent, Santenay Premier Cru Beaurepaire 2012 £28 bottle £336 dozen

A lovely hillside vineyard making quite soft and forward wines, rich and ripe yet with enough substance for maturing well in bottle. Now to 2021. 13%

Jean-Marc Vincent, Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Bretterins 2012 When Jean-Marc first started making this wine it was on the dry side. But many changes

to viticulture, yield, date of harvest and vinification have transformed the wine into a delicious, balanced mid-weight Burgundy with attractive intensity and freshness of flavour marking its character rather than out-and-out power. Still a baby. 2017 to 2021. 13% Available only in the mixed case M-MX15152.

BURGUNDY PROFILEJEAN-MARC VINCENT, SANTENAYOf all the domaines in Burgundy we buy from, this is one for whom I have the utmost admiration and respect because of the sheer hard work of Jean-Marc Vincent and his wife, Anne-Marie. Jean-Marc, after living in Alsace, returned home to Santenay to take back the family vineyards developed by his grandfather. A superb 1947 red Santenay made by his grandfather inspired Jean-Marc, and gave him an insight into the huge potential of the region. I was lucky enough to taste it in 2010 and it was still a vigorous, magnificently rich and powerful wine.

There really is no magic in Burgundy. Excellent wine is made from low yields of well looked-after vineyards by people who care and have a huge capacity for much hard work. Jean-Marc aims for yields of 35hl/ha for his reds and 45/hl for his whites, very low indeed for these modest appellations. The definition you can always taste in the wines here is especially marked in 2012, a superb vintage of limited yields, concentrated fruit, ripe tannins and lovely freshness. Toby Morrhall

JEAN-MARC VINCENT EXPLORATION CASE £169Drink from 2017 or store to 2018

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

ref M-MX15152

Jean-Marc Vincent and his antique plough

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19For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

M-US5821 Lemelson Thea’s Selection Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2012 £19.50 bottle £234 dozen

The Society has championed Eric Lemelson’s fine Oregon pinots for many vintages now. He owns a number of plots in the Willamette Valley, all organically farmed. Thea is not a vineyard, but a selection of wines from each of them, artfully blended and designed to express the subtleties of the vintage. This won’t disappoint, with dense notes of spiced red berries – cranberry, redcurrant, strawberry – which will develop further with time or decanting. Now to 2020. 14% Low stock.

M-NZ7521 Prophet’s Rock Central Otago Pinot Noir 2011 £25 bottle £300 dozen

Paul Pujol’s pinots come from Bendigo, a warmer, drier sub-region of Central Otago. They tend to be full but firm, with a sleekness about them. The 2011 vintage had its moments weather-wise, but a perfect end to the ripening process resulted in a fresh, aromatic, elegant pinot, packed with delightful cherry and berry flavours and subtle truffle notes beneath. Great wine for game, says Paul who also recommends decanting it to overcome what he calls a certain shyness on first acquaintance. Now to 2020. 14%

M-IT17271 Barthenau Vigna S Urbano, Weingut J Hofstätter 2010 £36 bottle £432 dozen

Though this part of Italy’s Adige Valley put the Tramin in gewürztraminer, it’s Hofstätter’s beautifully crafted pinots that lift the region into the fine wine sphere. The mature Barthenau vineyard lies on a cooler slope, where pergola training promotes good circulation and longer ripening for added complexity. In the fine 2010 vintage, this is especially good: velvety, sensuous and very long. Now to 2020. 13.5%

M-GE8631 Marienglas Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs, Weingut Aldinger 2012 £36 bottle £432 dozen

Confusing Stuttgart with the Côte de Nuits seems unthinkable until you taste this silky, gorgeous pinot noir. Marienglas is an old-vine plot at the heart of Untertürkheimer Gips, an outstanding site in the Neckar Valley that takes its name from an exceptionally pure form of gypsum that was mined here for use in religious paintings (‘Mary’s glass’). The wine is exceptionally pure too, beautifully scented, finely textured and long on the palate. Now to 2019. 13.5%

M-BU40231 Domaine Henri Gouges, Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru Clos des £37 bottle £444 dozen Porrets-Saint-Georges, 2006 Add to the Gouges style – based very much on the deferred pleasure principle – the

leisurely evolution of the 2006 vintage and even Job might be challenged. The wines are worth the wait. At nine years old, this still shows the structure of its commune but has begun to display its softer, more sociable side. Typically firm still, but with plenty of upholstery, this is a wine for lovers of classic Nuits. Now to 2017. 13%

M-AU13791 Wineglass Bay Tasmania Pinot Noir, Freycinet Vineyard 2008 £39 bottle £468 dozen Geoffrey Bull’s Freycinet Vineyard is in a sheltered spot on the east coast of Tasmania,

close to the aptly named Wineglass Bay. It has a track record of producing complex wines that age very well. Made by Claudio Radenti, this is very serious pinot noir, gently extracted and matured for a year in French barrique, with black-cherry, earthy flavours, velvety tannins and outstanding length. Members should note that it must be labelled and offered in the UK as ‘Wineglass Bay Pinot Noir’ for legal reasons, but it’s the same gorgeous pinot, considered by locals as Australia’s very finest. Now to 2021. 14%

PINOT NOIR GRAND TOUR £189Drink or store to 2017

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the wines listed above.

ref M-MX15155

PINOT NOIRMUSE, MINX OR MINEFIELD?All three words have been used to describe pinot noir, by growers, critics and consumers alike. Yet, as the number of pinots in this edition of the Fine Wine List demonstrates, there has never been a better time to fall in love with this most seductive of grapes as the world outside Burgundy begins to flex its muscles. New Zealand’s Otago is an established success and The Society has, for many years, championed Hofstätter in northern Italy’s Adige Valley. In Oregon, a state with a long, if erratic history of pinot growing, Eric Lemelson is rock solid. More recent revelations have been cool-climate Tasmania and the warmer south of Germany. We dare not leave out Burgundy, of course. Sample them all in the mixed case.

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20 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

THE ALLOTMENT AND BEYOND: BEETS AND WILD MUSHROOMS M-AU17391 Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Since it emerged from the domination of killer pickling vinegar, beetroot has been much easier to match with wine which now just has the challenge of its sweet earthiness to meet. ‘Beetroot’ is a tasting note that often pops up in youthful pinot noir. Mac Forbes’ Victorian beauty has the perfect balance of bright, berried fruit and fresh acidity and is just hitting its stride. It will even cope with a dash of good and mature balsamic or sherry vinegar, also delicious with roasted beets. Now to 2020. 13% Read more about this wine in the Victoria Spotlight on page 16.

M-BW3521 Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008 £29 bottle £348 dozen Autumn in Bordeaux brings unfeasibly large ceps. These regal mushrooms should be

cooked very simply, with just a little butter, salt and fresh parsley, and a mellow white Graves is the perfect foil. This one blends a generous 65% semillon, from an outstanding harvest for the grape, with 35% sauvignon blanc. 40% is fermented in new barriques for a subtle lick of oak that gives the fruit a chance to shine. Now to 2018. 13.5% Read more about this wine in Tales of the Unexpected on page 22.

THE FISH COUNTER: BREAM, BASS AND THE CALL OF THE WILD M-SA10041 Fable Mountain Vineyards Jackal Bird, Western Cape 2012 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Bream is extensively farmed now, but the call of the wild in late summer through to the end of the year, is irresistible. Its stronger, gamier character blends well with Mediterranean flavours – garlic, fennel, olives and Provence herbs – and a Rhône-inspired white is perfect. In addition to the familiar southern varieties grenache blanc, roussanne and viognier, this Cape star benefits from a high percentage of chenin blanc which makes it even more versatile. Drink this year and next. 13% Read more about this wine in Tales of the Unexpected on page 22.

M-BU54931 Domaine Marc Colin, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Créots 2012 £27 bottle £324 dozen

Nothing beats the firm flesh and delicate flavour of wild bass. Simply grilled or fried with a little butter and lemon, or poached and served with a classic butter sauce, it demands, and deserves a patrician white Burgundy, and a Champion to boot. This pocket Puligny from underappreciated Saint-Aubin will do it. Now to 2017. 13.5% Read more about this wine in Fine Wine Champions on page 9.

A VIN FOR ALL SEASONSFINE WINE FOR AUTUMN FOODAs fresh and green turns into ripe, mellow and fruitful, it’s time to turn up the volume in the glass for the arrival of game, wild mushrooms and earthy roots. In the second of our seasonal features we assemble some perfect partners from this List for lingering sunny days, occasional nips in the air and the reliably heady flavours of autumn. Janet Wynne Evans, Fine Wine Editor

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21For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

THE BUTCHER’S HOOK: GAME ON M-IT17891 Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007 £18 bottle £216 dozen

Come the Glorious Twelfth, what better match is there than Burgundy for the first of the grouse? Chianti, says the River Café, where they braise the bird in it, adding thyme and lavish amounts of butter and oil. Never again will grouse taste dry, and the deep-puce sourdough crouton that absorbs all the juices is almost the best bit. Almost better with the finished article is Umbria’s authentic and mighty sagrantino grape. Now to 2020. 15.5% Read more about this wine in Small Wonders on page 8. Find the grouse recipe at thewinesociety.com/grouse

M-US5691 Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

Roast pheasant and good claret make as happy a match as grouse and Burgundy. However, if you braise your brace in red wine – advisable for older and potentially tougher birds – you’ll be adding a few serious mushrooms, caramelised shallots and sweet roots. For these, something gutsier and warmer is perfect. Strong by name, velvety and elegant by nature, this Sonoma star brings a welcome touch of the Golden State to leaden late-summer days. Now to 2025. 14.5% Read more about this wine in Small Wonders on page 8.

SEASONAL DESSERTS: LATE SUMMER BERRIES, APPLES AND PEARSM-SP8701 MR Mountain Wine, Málaga 2010 50cl £12.50 bottle £150 dozen

The mate of choice for an autumnal crumble of sweet, ripe pears and sharp Bramley apples. This fresh, naturally sweet muscat from the hills above Picasso’s birthplace is pitch-perfect. If you like a pinch of cinnamon or nutmeg in your crumble, the wine will bring these out too. Drink this year. 13.5% The 2013 follows. Read more about this wine in the Small Wonders section on page 6.

M-BW4062 Half bottle of Château Raymond-Lafon, Sauternes 2010 £13.50 half bottle The simultaneous sweetness and acidity of raspberries and blackberries and the dark

rasp of blackcurrants, demand a really focused dessert wine for a summer pudding. Step forward a luscious, top-class Sauternes like this one, a semillon-rich blend with all the honey, spice and raciness we expect. Try making your summer pudding with thickish slices of brioche, which will work even better with the wine. Now to 2035. 13.5% Read more about this wine in the Fine Wine Champions feature on page 10.

THE AUTUMN CHEESEBOARD: A CELEBRATION OF PLENTYM-CH2211 Boizel Brut Millésimé 2002 £49 bottle £294 per six

Autumn is peak season for cheese lovers. The bloomy and washed rinds are on a second wave which will continue until November. Artisanal goat’s milk cheeses will all soon play second fiddle to a new generation of hungry kids so seize them now. Hard cheese made from last year’s fragrant pasture are beginning to flex their muscles while the long-termers – Cheddar, Mimolette, old Gouda – are tastier than ever after a second year’s maturation. Champagne works its magic with all of these. Acidity, salt and butterfat, the three most strident components of cheese, are met head-on by a prime fizz, which matches the first, absorbs the second and cuts through the third like a well-honed rapier. Add the toasty fruit of a mature vintage bottling like this beauty from Boizel and do, please, try this at home! Drink this year, 12%. Read more about this wine in the Champagne Boizel feature on page 3.

FINE WINE AUTUMN DINING CASE £132Drink or store to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008Domaine Marc Colin, Saint-Aubin Premier Cru Les Créots 2012Fable Mountain Vineyards Jackal Bird, Western Cape 2012 Mac Forbes Yarra Valley Pinot Noir 2013Montefalco Sagrantino, Scacciadiavoli 2007Rodney Strong Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011

ref M-MX15158

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22 To order thewinesociety.com/finewines 01438 740222

WHITE M-NZ7541 Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013 £17 bottle £204 dozen

Members already lap up Kevin Judd’s delicious Greywacke sauvignons and there’s nothing in his pinot gris to scare the horses, but imagined associations with mass-produced pinot grigio and all-too-real ones with icky, oversweet, clumsy new world versions of the grape have made drinkers needlessly skittish. Weighty but balanced, off-dry but mouthwateringly racy and fragrant but not overpowering, it’s the perfect foil for both spicy Thai and salty Chinese cuisine. Drink this year and next. 14% Low stock.

M-AU17451 Tyrrell’s Stevens Hunter Semillon 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

The intriguing thing about the warm Hunter Valley is its ability to produce poised, long-lived semillons of terrific concentration and very modest alcohol. The style is unique: waxy, lemony, becoming toasty with age and progessively honeyed. Tyrrell’s semillons practically enjoy World Heritage status, so we are delighted to secure a UK exclusivity on this single-vineyard wine, usually sold only at the property. It’s a bit far to go, even for an explorer, so seize this opportunity to try its intense citrus flavours and lifted mineral notes at home with roast chicken. Now to 2020. 11% Low stock.

M-SA10041 Fable Mountain Vineyards Jackal Bird, Western Cape 2012 £20 bottle £240 dozen

The original Tulbagh Mountain Estate is safe in the hands of its new American owners, evidenced by smart new labels and a palpable step-up in quality. This blend of Swartland chenin blanc with grenache blanc, roussanne, chardonnay and viognier has the feel of a heady Rhône white but with cool Loire precision, and it’s already garnered five stars in the influential Platter guide to South African wines. A Jackal Bird in the hand is an invaluable standby that can cope with virtually any dish you care to serve it with. See below for its equally intriguing red stablemate. Now and next year. 13% Find the food connection in A Vin For All Seasons on page 20.

M-LO8191 Sancerre, Les Culs de Beaujeu, François Cotat 2008 £27 bottle £324 dozen

When is a Sancerre not a Sancerre? When it’s from Cotat. Not for this highly individual domaine the familiar gooseberry allure and fleeting lifespan of your average sauvignon blanc. This is not a wine of the moment, but of years. It responds to decanting and is often at its best several days later. So, it will come as a relief to members that this is the most forward of Cotat’s three distinct crus, which also include Monts Damnés and Grande Côte. Now nine years old, it combines intriguing richness on the palate with a thrilling, rapier-like finish. Serve with luxury seafood this year and next. 13.5%

M-BW3521 Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008 £29 bottle £348 dozen

There is nothing remotely odd about good white Graves, just the fact that so few people drink it. At its most elegant, with a good wallop of ripe, blossomy semillon and the discreet lick of an expensive barrel, it’s a delicious alternative to white Burgundy, often at a less exalted price. The story here is the outstanding quality of semillon in this vintage and the generous amount of it in the blend (65%, with sauvignon). The château favours it with ripe Comté cheese. Now to 2018. 13.5% Find the food connection in A Vin For All Seasons on page 20.

TEN TALES OF THE UNEXPECTEDA relaxing glass of something familiar when the sun hits the yard-arm is one of life’s undoubted pleasures, but it’s good to push a few boundaries, occasionally. The collection below embraces the new, celebrates differences and avoids the obvious. We would neither buy nor recommend any of these wines if we didn’t think them very good indeed. We urge members to put down that nice, relaxing glass and get some in!

Kevin Judd producing excellence at Greywacke

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23For advice thewinesociety.com/advice or 01438 741177

REDM-AU18111 Mazza Tempranillo 2010 £19 bottle £228 dozen

If tempranillo in its Spanish guise has palled, try the Aussie version. It had to happen, and, in the hands of Iberiophile David Mazza, it’s not only working, but winning medals. This is his seventh vintage, from vines grown in the Donnybrook region of Geographe in Western Australia. With complex strawberry aromas and notes of leather and savoury spice on the palate, this is very fine indeed, and its producer one to watch. Now to 2023. 14%

M-NZ8201 Fromm La Strada Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 £19 bottle £228 dozen

Marlborough, but not quite as we know it. Fourth-generation Swiss winemaker Georg Fromm has been at work here since 1992, taming the exuberant fruit character that defines the region’s wines, and aiming for a more restrained, European style. Three distinctive single vineyards are bottled as such, but also contribute to the Strada blend. This is a model of subtlety, balance and almost Burgundian elegance, and similarly suited to game and wild mushooms now, perhaps duck later in the year and prime beef at any time. Now to 2019. 13.5%

M-SA10011 Fable Mountain Vineyards Night Sky, Coastal 2011 £20 bottle £240 dozen

The aptly named Night Sky is a Cape tribute to Châteauneuf, a gorgeous blend of 60% syrah, 25% mourvèdre and 15% grenache that seems to coat the palate in velvet. Syrah and mourvèdre are sustainably farmed on the original Tulbagh Mountain estate, while the grenache is sourced from carefully chosen parcels in Swartland to contribute that dark, fruit-cake southern-Rhône feel. A supremely elegant red with layers of black-fruit charm and unmistakeable finesse on the finish. Now to 2018. 14.5%

M-SP10301 B de Basilio Izquierdo, Rioja 2008 £30 bottle £360 dozen

Breaking news of a coup for buyer Pierre Mansour! Basilio Izquierdo, revered head of winemaking at CVNE, makes a very small amount of exquisite Rioja under his own label which he has made available exclusively to The Society. The blend is 62% tempranillo, 34% garnacha and 4% graciano, and just 350 cases were produced in 2008. Smoky, muscular, rich and elegant, and crafted with food in mind, this is something very special. Decant an hour before serving. Now to 2023. 13.5%

M-PW4981 Quinta do Vesuvio, Douro 2011 £46 bottle £552 dozen

Members are already au fait with the allure of Douro table reds made from classic port varieties, but it’s not every year that both tourigas (nacional and franca) achieve perfection. It remains for the Symington family, owners of Vesuvio, to ensure that this harmony and cooperation are reflected in the wine, which is especially supple and concentrated, but beautifully fresh. A mere 1,200 cases were produced and not all of them ended up in Stevenage. So snap up this exquisitely perfumed and refined red without delay but resist opening it for a while if you can. Now to 2025. 14%

TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED CASE £129Drink or store to 2016

A six-bottle case containing one bottle each of the following wines:

Château Bouscaut Blanc, Pessac-Léognan 2008Greywacke Marlborough Pinot Gris 2013Tyrrell’s Stevens Hunter Semillon 2011Fromm La Strada Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013B de Basilio Izquierdo, Rioja 2008Mazza Tempranillo 2010

ref M-MX15159

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FNAUG15

SERVICESMembers’ Reserves: optimum wine storage This purpose-built, temperature-controlled facility offers members access to ideal storage conditions at one of the UK’s most competitive rates.

l Optimum storage at a steady average temperature of 13°C with appropriate humidity of 65%

l An annual rental charge (currently £7.92 per dozen) that includes VAT and insurance at replacement value

l Mix your own case for storage, or store pre-mixed cases

l Remove a few bottles of a full case stored in Reserves and leave the remainder to mature further

l View your stored wines online with updated drink dates

l Free UK delivery when you are ready to receive your wines

thewinesociety.com/membersreserves

Vintage Cellar Plan – the simple and affordable way to create a cellar of fine wineChoose from a range of plans and then let The Society’s buyers do the rest, using their expertise to seek out exceptional parcels of wine for your future enjoyment. thewinesociety.com/vintagecellarplan

Fine Wine Advisers – here to helpPlease contact the Fine Wine Advisers for help with wine selection, food matching and any other wine-related subject. Visit thewinesociety.com/advice or call 01438 741177 to find out more.

The Society’s Fine Wine ListPlease note that many of these wines are available only in limited quantities and will be sold on a first-come first-served basis. Prices are correct at the time of publication, but The Society reserves the right to amend them at any time during the life of this List.

Please refer to the main List for details on ordering from The Society.

Please note:

l Members wishing to store mixed cases in our Reserves facility are advised to take note of the drinking windows highlighted in the wine note of the wines included in it.

l Our Stevenage Showroom doesn’t hold stocks of all the fine wines listed, so pre-ordering is recommended.

KEYPlease refer to the main List for full descriptions

White Wines: bone dry, eg. Muscadet

a little fuller than bone dry or with lower acidity

dry but rich or lighter and sweeter

medium dry, usually demi-secs

medium sweet, the driest of the pudding-style wines

- dessert grade sweetness eg. Sauternes

Alcohol levelsAlcohol percentage by volume is indicated for each wine or spirit. Occasionally there will be slight variations from the published figure. Alcohol levels are only a guide to a wine’s fullness; other factors such as tannin and extract in red wines also contribute to overall impression of weight and the note on the wine should make this clear. Units of alcohol are increasingly printed on wine labels. A UK unit of alcohol is simply measured by multiplying alcohol by volume. Thus a standard 13% 75cl bottle of wine will contain 9.7 units of alcohol.

14.5 10.9

14 10.5

13.5 10.1

13 9.75

12 9.0

11 8.25

10 7.5

9 6.75

volume % Units per standard bottleThe UK government recommends that men do not regularly exceed 3-4 units a day, and that women do not regularly exceed 2-3 units a day. It also recommends that pregnant women do not drink alcohol.

This offer is open until Sunday 15th November, 2015 while stocks last.

thewinesociety.com/finewines

Uncork with confidence

The Wine Society is a mutual organisation, so our members’ satisfaction is paramount. If, for any reason, you haven’t enjoyed a wine we want to hear about it and will happily offer a credit, a replacement or a refund. thewinesociety.com/promise