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The Oberoi Centre of Learning and Development

Confectionery

Compiled by

Prakash Chettiyar (KM02-04)

The history of confectionery remains obscure; although there are plenty ofapocryphal and contradictory stories. Dragee (candy dredged in powdered sugarwith almonds) originated in Eastern Europe & Marzipan (paste of groundalmonds with fine sugar) was introduced by the Italians. Praline, named afterCommander Praline of French army, is a hard paste made by mixing groundnutsboiling syrup. Confectionery as such never originated from a particular region.Confisere is defined as the art of making preserves of all kinds and many otherworks in sugar, pastries, cakes, wines and liqueurs . The art of confectionary lies

in sweetening the bitterness of the harshest fruits and making them into adelicious dish. It was somewhere in 19th century that chocolates were introducedin confectionery.

ChocolateThe velvety texture and rich flavour of chocolate adds a touch of luxury tonumerous cakes, cookies, puddings, desserts and it is equally good in hot andcold dishes. Chocolate was the preserve of Aztec emperors. Highly prized andcoveted, chocolate was unknown in Europe, in the middle of the 16 th century itwas introduced as a rare and wonderful beverage. As an added bonus chocolatecan be piped, shaped and moulded to make a variety of exciting decorations.

Types of chocolates

Couverture fine quality pure chocolate with high % cocoa butter (31% fatcontent), which gives it a high gloss. It is suitable for decorative use andfor making hand made chocolates. It should be tempered before using.

Plain dark chocolate this has a high percentage of cocoa solids (around75%) with little or no added sugar.

Plain chocolate widely used chocolate in cooking; it contains 30-70%cocoa solids. Higher the cocoa solids better the chocolate flavour will be.

White chocolates it does not contain any cocoa solids. But gets itsflavour from cocoa butter. It is sweet and smooth compared to other

chocolates. Care should be taken while melting white chocolate, as it doesnot withstand heat as well as plain chocolate.

Chocolate chips they are small pieces of chocolate of uniform size,convenient for stirring directly into biscuit dough or for melting. It has fewercocoa solids than ordinary chocolates.

Cocoa made from the pure cocoa after most of the cocoa butter hasbeen extracted. The most economical way of giving puddings and bakedgoods a chocolate flavour.

Prakash Chettiyar KM02-04


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Tempering CouverturesIn order to obtain perfect products it is necessary to handle and process thecouverture carefully.Melting the couverture

Break the couverture into small pieces and melt in a warming cabinet at 45-50oC.

Tempering by spreadingEmpty approximately 1/3rd ot the melted couverture, 45-50oC onto a marbletable. Spread and fold continuously with a palette knife until it becomes thick(27oC). During this process fat crystals are stabilized. Return the stabilizedcouverture to the bowl and warm gently to 30-32.5oC.

Tempering by adding grated couvertureAdd approximately 1/3rd of grated couverture to the melted chocolate (45-

50o

C), and stir until smooth. In this way, the couverture is inoculated withstable fat crystals. Warm gently to 30-35.5oC. Grated couverture can only beused if it has been tempered before being allowed to set.

Tempering by warming directlyOf the couverture has been tempered before it sets, it can be placed in

warming cabinet and left to melt for 24 hours. The temperature should neverbe hotter than 30-32.5oC during this time (depending on the type ofcouverture)

Important tips

When tempering, leave the couverture at 27

o

C for a short time so thatsufficient crystals can stabilize.

If the couverture has a thick consistency it should be stirred carefully(if it is mixed too quickly it will foam)

Foamy couverture will stay thick, even when it is heated to the correcttemperature.

Foamy couverture should be warmed again to 45-50oC, and shouldthen be tempered correctly.

Processing Couverture

Room Temperature should be approximately 20Celsius.

Temperature of the product should be around 20Celsius. It its too coldwhen coated then the couverture will set quickly. As a result, the coatingwill be thick and dull with grey patches. It is warm, then the couverturetakes time to set, as a result crystals are stabilized leaving a red-greycoating with light streaks and spots.

The coated products should be stored at 15Celsius.

While pouring in moulds, care should be taken that the mould is eithermade of plastic or metal & should be undamaged. The mould too should



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be around 20Celsius. To avoid any trappings of air, it should be tapped orknocked gently after filling it with couverture.



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Creams, Icings and FrostingsCreams, Icings and Frostings not only complement cakes but also highlight it.Butter cream is rich; it works as a filling, coating and decoration for manyEuropean cakes. Soft icings are more classical, notably Fondant, which offers a

smooth background for decoration of nuts, praline, chocolate designs or pipedwriting. With the exception ofChantillycream, fillings, icings and toppings areusually added ahead so flavours mellow. Flavours should marry well with the

cake; otherwise a finished cake can taste unpleasant and look very unappealing.Finest of all confectionery filling material is fresh dairy cream. It should be stored38-40oF until required for whipping. The object of whipping fresh cream is two fold. First to bring the material to conditions in which it can be piped or filled intocakes and will then retain the shape imparted to it by piping tube or palette knife.Secondly to increase the volume of the cream so that it will be profitable to use inconfectionery.

GanacheA ganache transforms chocolate into a smooth and creamy filling or adjusted byincreasing or decreasing the amount of chocolate the more chocolate used, thefirmer the ganache; the less the chocolate more tender it is.

Recipe for Ganache:Crme fraiche 1 kgChocolate 1.5 kgSimmer the cream. Melt the chocolate over a double boiler and stir in the hotcream. Smoothing the mixture with whisk. For more commercial purposesubstitute 60%of cream with milk, then boil them separately and mix it with the

chocolate. Smoothen the mixture with 1 kg tepid ganache. If we substitute darkchocolate with milk chocolate, it is called milk chocolate cream.

Chantilly cream, Pastry and Frangipane cream are the creams often used for layering,filling and icing. Chantilly cream is made with fresh cream and sugar (10:1) andvanilla. For the success of a Chantilly cream the cream used for making should beextremely fresh for it to stand for a long time. Frangipane cream is made by mixingwith butter with flour, eggs, sugar, and ground almond and also flavoured with rum.Pastry cream, on the other hand, can be used to fill cakes, tarts, and desserts. Ithas to be made daily, since it cannot be kept for long because of its high content.Pastry cream can be heavy, so it is lightened with an equal quantity of butter

cream, Italian Meringue (to make chibouste cream) or whipped cream (to makelight pastry cream.)

Recipe for Pastry creamSugar -- 150gEgg yolks -- 12 nos.,.Flour -- 70gMilk -- 1litre



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Sugar -- 150g (for Milk)Vanilla Essence 1tspCream the egg yolk and sugar. Then fold in the flour. Later add the boiled andstrained milk & bring the entire mixture to boil and continue cooking for 30seconds. It should be cooked properly otherwise it will taste floury.

Butter CreamThe most common butter cream is used with egg yolks beaten with hot sugar syrupto a light mousse, and then mixed with creamed butter. A lighter version uses eggwhites. Flavourings vary from coffee and chocolate to liqueurs and fruit purees. Itmay also be lightened by folding in an equal volume of pastry cream to makepastry butter cream (Fr. Crme Mousseline.) On the other hand, Butter icing is adomestic version of butter cream, consisting simply of equal weights of creamedbutter and sugar thoroughly beaten together. Icing sugar gives a smooth filling;granulated sugar brings in crunchy texture, while brown sugar has more taste.

Flavourings are same as butter cream.

Soft Icing and Royal icingSoft Icings vary from simple glaze of icing sugar to shimmering density ofFondanticing. A glaze is thinner than icing, giving a semi-transparent coating: it may beadded after baking or baked with the batter. The aim is to get a thin, soft and asmooth sugar coating. Thin so that it complements the cake, smooth to give goodglaze and soft t so that it is easy to slice. Royal icing is made of icing sugar beatento a smooth paste with egg white and a little lemon juice for whiteness. It holds acrisp shape that makes it decorators tool. If too stiff, dilute with a few drops ofwater and if too soft beat in more icing sugar. It always has to be covered with a

damp cloth since it dries very quickly.

MeringuesMeringues are used in patisserie as a Topping, petit fours, to decorate dessertsand cakes. The most common frosting is Italian Meringue, is made by adding hotsugar (soft ball stage) syrup into whipped egg whites. Americans are also fond ofwhipped frostings, such as boiled fudge frosting made by boiling chocolate withsugar and milk. Whipped frosting can be used as both filling and topping It is usedin frostings, iced souffls, butter creams etc. Meringue made by whisking eggwhites to a soft peak and then mixing in the sugar is called the Swiss (ordinary)Meringue. Cooked Meringue is prepared by whisking egg whites and sugar over a

gentle heat and then baking in oven. It can be also used for making meringuebaskets, petit fours and desserts. Of all the three, Swiss meringue is the mostfragile Italian the most stable and the cooked meringue being the most robust of allthe meringues.Two of the classic French desserts are made from meringues. They are IleFlottante (Floating Island) and Oeufs A La Neige (Eggs In Snow). Both aresimilar, Floating island consists of a large baked meringue served on a custard



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sauce, often with a lacing of caramel over the top. In Oeufs A La Neige, themeringues are in small egg shapes and is poached, not baked.

Mousses, Bavarois, Charlottes & SoufflsThese all refer to soft, light. Airy desserts made with beaten egg whites or whipped

cream. Mousse, which in French simply means froth or foam, is the broadestcategory of the three. For that matter any dessert that has a frothy or foamy texturemay be dubbed as a mousse. Bavarois (Bavarian Cream) is a specific kind ofmousse composed of a gelatin bound custard and beaten egg whites and whippedcream. The custard gives firmness and stability whereas cream & egg white makethe dessert light. The French distinguish between two types of dessert charlottes;those composed of a stiff puree, typically apple, baked in buttered bread strips,and those that consist of mousse (of any type) corseted in ladyfingers or cake.Mousse has a base of custard sauce, eggs (either whole/separated) beaten withsugar or simply pureed fruit. The flavourings of the mousse should blend well withthe eggs, cream and the sugar. In case of fruits it is preferable to use tar berries or

citrus fruits or any flavoured liquer. The mousse can be served either spooned ormolded or as a filling in a chocolate charlotte or a mousse cake. The texture of themousse accordingly varies, for a molded dessert it should be bit firmer. Thefirmness is achieved by adding gelatin to the mousse mixture.

Recipe for Chocolate Mousse(Seven portions)Chocolate (dark)300gButter -- 45gEgg yolks 5-6 nos.Water -- 30g

Sugar - - 60gEgg whites -- 5 nos.Heavy Cream 250g

In a hot water bath, combine the chocolate & butter and allow it to melt.

Combine the egg yolks with the half of the water & half of the sugar. Thenwhisk it over the hot water bath for around 63 degree Celsius for 15seconds. Remove from the heat and whip until cool.

Beat the egg whites to full volume. (The egg whites can increase by asmuch as nine times in volume when beaten correctly, so choose a bowllarge and deep enough. Avoid plastic bowls, which in spite of carefulwashing tend to retain a slight grease film, preventing the full volume from

being achieved.)Then fold in the egg yolk mixture with the rubber spatula. Then fold in the melted chocolate followed by whipped cream and any

flavouring. (Care should be taken that the flavouring should be at roomtemperature and liquid enough to fold well without deflating the foamytexture. For better results, the bowl and the beater should be chilledbefore whipping cream.) Chill the mousse and serve.



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Souffls, literally meaning puffed up, like mousse can be made of cream, pureedfruits or flavoured with liqueurs. There are many similarities between mousse andsouffl, but there some noticeable differences. Like in mousse we add gelatin andit is on the heavier side; we do not add gelatin in souffl and it is extremely light.The proportion of egg whites in souffl is more than mousse. Avoid overloading a

souffl, hot or cold, since it risks of collapsing and spoiling the texture and body ofthe souffl. Souffl could be either savoury (served as hors doeuvre or light meals)or sweet (as desserts). Generally savoury ones are made with bchamel sauceand for dessert it is often made with pastry cream. The reason of puffing up of thesouffl is the air trapped in the beaten egg whites expands as the temperatureincreases. And, as soon as the souffl is removed from the oven, the gas cools&contracts, making the souffl fall. A well- cooked souffl should be firmly set butstill moist and creamy in the center, not dry.

Layering and Finishing on the CakeCakes should be completely cool before being trimmed, cut, filled and /or

frosted. Warm cake Layers melt Frostings and cause layers to slip and slide.The cake is then sliced horizontally in equal layers. The cake should be

generally kept in the walk-in for one day.Then the cake is set on a cardboard round, a piece of aluminum foil, or a

decorating turntable or lazy Susan. It the cake is not in level, it should betrimmed off. For convenience, cut a notch down on one side of the cake; so thatit is easy to layer up while assembling the cake. If the cakes have domes then ithas to be trimmed off, since it is easier to spread frosting on an uncut surface.

Using the right amount and consistency of frosting and filing is extremelycrucial to the cake. The amount depends on the style of cake and the richnessof the filling. Fluffy frostings and whipped cream are spread thicker than denser,

richer buttercreams. It is often seen that, thinner the layer thinner the filling andfor thick layer, filling should be spread. if the frosting is too thick or stiff tears thecake and pulls up crumbs; the thinner version oozes between the layers andcollapses into a puddle when piped, and may even slide off the cake

Moistening of cake is important for the holding of frostings and fillings.Sponge layers and genoise are usually brushed, sprinkled, or sprayed with aflavoured soaking syrup .If the cake is very dry, use more of syrup; if a genoisecame out moist and tender, use less. And also consider how thick the layersare--- use less syrup than is called for on inch thick layers and up to the fullamount on inch thick layers.

Brush loose crumbs from the cake layers as fast as possible. Since it will

contaminate the frosting in the bowl. Scrape the spatula against anothercontainer each time before it is dipped in the frosting.To minimize wastage, the cake can be crumb-coated(spreading a thin

layer of frosting all over to smooth the surface and secure the crumbs). Forcrumb-coating, it is fine to use frosting that is already contaminated withcrumbs.

Finishing of cake can be done with icings and frostings. Before finishing, it isimportant to seal the cake with a marzipan paste or hot strained jam/ preserve.



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After this the cake is refrigerated for a few minutes to set the crumb coat beforeapplying the final touches.

Finally coat the cake with a glaze or an icing as per the choice .The cakesurface must be smooth before glazing. For decorating the cake the frosting orbutter cream has to be soft, dip a comb or serrated knife in hot water and wipe

it dry. To coat the cake sides with nuts (the frostings have to be soft), lift thecake and then press handfuls of nuts against the sides of the cake.

Piping Techniques and various Confectionery techniques.

Making of Mousse

Piping Techniques



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The best mixtures for fine piping are Royal Icing and plain melted chocolate(thinned if necessary) .Use a paper cone made of wax or parchment paper oruse a sealable plastic bag.After filling, fold over and roll up the open end of thepaper cone and twist the plastic bag, forcing the frosting toward a bottom center.Snip the end to make a tiny opening for piping.For piping borders, rosettes, stars, or other designs with frosting, butter cream orwhipped cream, use a cloth or plasticized pastry bag. Always choose a baglarger than it is needed. Never fill the bag much more than half-full; there should

be plenty of empty to twist and seal off the filling. Frostings and butter creams tobe piped should be stiff enough to hold a crisp shape. Whipped cream should beslightly under whipped before piping; as forcing it through the bag and the tip willstiffen it further.



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ICING ON CAKES ( MARZIPANNING & ROYAL ICING)

Bibliography

Joy of Cooking Rombauer and BeckerComplete Guide To Cookery Anne WillanThe Professional Chef John Wiley & Sons, Inc.Chocolate Ecstasy-- Christine FranceLarousse Gastronomique-- Paul Hamyln PublicationsHerrings DictionaryOf Classical and Modern Cookery Walter BickelPerfect Bakery And ConfectioneryRichemont Craft School



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