30-minute earrings. 60 quick & creative projects for jewelers

7/22/2019 30-Minute Earrings. 60 Quick & Creative Projects for Jewelers

1/138

LARK JEWELRY\ I- e rrln

M RTHE LE V N

II

--6 -I Quick Creative Projects for Jewelers I


2/138


3/138

60 Quick Creative Projects for JewelersMarthe Le Van

lARK OOKSA Division o Sterl ing Publishing Co. Inc.

New York / London


4/138

ssistant EditorGavin R. Youngrt DirectorKristi Pfefferrt Production ssistantBradley Norris

PhotographerStewart O'Shieldsover DesignersCelia Naranjo and Chris Bryant

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication DataLe Van Marthe.30-minute earring s: 60 quick creative projects for jewelers / Marthe Le Van . -- 1st ed .

p cmIncludes bibliographical references and index.ISBN 978-1-60059-487-8 (pb-pbk. : alk. paper)1. Jewelry making. I Title. II. Title: Thirty-minute earrings.TT212.L4882010739.27 -dc22

20090373601 987654321

First EditionPublished by Lark Books, A Division ofSterling Publishing Co. , Inc.387 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016Text 2010, Lark BooksPhotography 2010, Lark Books, a Division of Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.Illustrations 2010, Lark Books, a Division of Sterling Publishing Co. , Inc.Distributed in Canada by Sterling Publishing,c/o Canadian Manda Group, 165 Dufferin StreetToronto , Ontario, Canada M6K 3H6Distributed in the United Kingdom by GMC Distribution Services,Castle Place, 166 High Street, Lewes, East Sussex, England BN7 1XUDistributed in Australia by Capr icom Link (Australia) Pty Ltd.,PO. Box 704, Windsor, NSW 2756 AustraliaThe written instructions, photographs, designs , patterns , and projects in this volume are intended for thepersonal use of the reader and may be reproduced for that purpose only. Any other use, especially commercialuse, is forbidden under law without written permission of the copyright holder.Every effort has been made to ensure that all the information in this book is accurate. However, due to differingconditions , tools, and individual skills, the publisher cannot be responsible for any injuries, losses, and otherdamages that may result from the use of the information in this book.If you have questions or comment s about this book, please contact:Lark Books67 BroadwayAsheville , NC 28801828-253-0467Manufactured in ChinaAll rights reservedISBN 13: 978-1-60059-487-8For information about custom editions, special sales , premium and corporate purchases, please contact SterlingSpecial Sales Department at 800-805-5489 or [email protected] .For information about desk and examination copies available to college and university professors, requests mustbe submitted to [email protected]. Our complete policy can be found at www.larkbooks.com .


5/138

:It HF.:ODUCTIot 1 page 8:01 .171 .::a_ L

page 10 page 12:0 :1

1

page 2 page 22

:11 :12

page 3 page 32

: :1 :17

t.

page 4 page 42

l7tq -

1 1

1 11 _

:04 :05

page 14 page 16 page 18

:01; :10


:14 :15


19 .-1171.L _ {

- . ..- page 44 page 46 page 48


6/138

- 1c .-.. .:c.c

page 50 page 52. - I ~C _ ~ 7L

page 60 page 62- 1 .-,.-.=.. :: . Co

Opage 70 page 72

..:...-_ CI . -- 7--

page 80 page 82

page 54

- 1-:c=

~ 4L

.-11:;:c -page 56

-Ie:C _I

- 1 ~ 1: ::.page 58

page 64 page 66 page 68 -:. --:. - 4 . -:.c-- -- : ::.- .-- ._

page 74 page 76 page 78 :11:.-_11_ .-1.;. --_1 ._ :40

\ I tIf\ .page 84 page 86 page 88


7/138

:41

:4t.

:51

: I:-

page 9

\

page 100

page 110

page 120

:47

c :-- ::

:57

page 92

page 102

page 112

page 122

4-: --

C -- ._

page 94

page 104

page 114

page 126

:44

49.

.c4 I.--

-,, ee.

page 96

page 106r

4c__

page 98

:50

page 108cc. -- --

page 116 page 118

page 128 page 130:CotHRIBUTIt lG DESIGNEF :S page 133

:ABOUT THE AUTHOR page 137:ACKNOI JLE:DGMEtHS page 137

:DESIGNEF : INDEX page 138


8/138

page

ntroductionThere never seems to be enough time in the day, especially for theprecious element of play But, as this book will attest, a lot can happen in30 minutes. We invited top designers to break down the barriers that timeitself builds up: barriers like self consciousness , over-analytical thinking ,voices whispering try it a different way, and a hundred other obstaclesthat can get in the way of pure creativity. We presented a challenge. Sitdown at your jeweler's bench and start the clock. Create a pair of earrings in 30 minutes flat, and just o it Let go.The results are astounding. The variety of materials, array of techniques,and range of styles in 30-Minute Earrings are nothing short of brilliant.Some projects are nature-inspired; some have geometric structure; others are derived from animals or include found objects in their construction. Consider designer Laura Itkoken who presented us with videotapeearrings (page 18). She chose a retro material to be the champion of herdesign, and let it speak for itself. The techniques are simple: pierce holesin videotape, loop it into a desired shape, and attach earring hooks. Butthe form looks complex, vibrant, and incredibly modern.The flip side to this approach is a pair of elegant, classic earrings byDeborah Fehrenbach (page 62). She selected traditional materials suchas sterling silver and coin pearls , but employed soldering and forging ,skills that are a little more involved. Whatever the method practiced byour 45 designers, the 60 projects they share in these pages will wow you,inspire you, and motivate you to drop everything else for 30 minutes andengage in this exhilarating exercise.Know what else is exhilarating? Earrings that don 't take long to makedon't cost much either. In these tricky economic times, it 's a rush to makeyour own jewelry that looks as if it was purchased in a high-end boutiquefor a top-dollar price. If you're a working jeweler, you probably alreadyhave the tools needed for most of the projects. If you're a new designer,you'll be surprised at how many earrings you can create with just a fewbasic tools: a jeweler's saw, hammer, pliers, wire snips, and sandpaperwill carry you a long way Because earrings are relatively small , you won'tbe investing much on materials , and you may even have many of themlying around in your studio or workroom. Got scrap metal? Fabulous lHow about a stash of findings, old fabric swatches, or leftover wire?Even betterDepending on your skill level, you may feel more comfortable brushing upon some basic metalworking techniques, materials, and tools before youstart a project. If so, he Ultimate Jeweler s Guide by Joanna Gollberg,


9/138

\I I

whose earrings are featured on page 12, is a great reference. She explains everything from cold connections andhot joining, to forming and finishing techniques. While herbook is more how-to , 30 Minute arrings is all about getready, get set, go In fact , that's exactly ow we've structured each set of instructions. Under Get Ready headings,you'll see a short list of skills required to complete theproject. Under Get Set, the designer presents you withthe necessary tools and materials. When you reach theheading that precedes step-by-step instructions, you'll beraring to GoSo, what are you waiting for? Step outside yourself, trustyour instincts, and turn the page. The clock is ticking .

ench Tool KitBench pinSteel bench blockJeweler s saw frameSaw bladesBeeswaxNeedle filesBastard fileSandpaper,

220 and 4 gritEmery paperChasing hammerRawhide or wooden

malletForging hammerMandrelsDapping block and

punchesFlexible shaftWood blockDrill bitsBurrsSeparating diskScribeStainless steel rulerDividersCalipersPliersWire cuttersCenter punchBurnisherSafety glassesSafety glovesHearing protectionDust mask

. .oldering Kit

Soldering torchStrikerHeat resistant soldering

surface (charcoalblocks, firebricks,or ceramic plates)

FluxFlux brush or other

applicatorSolder (hard, medium,

and easy)SnipsSmall embroidery

scissorsSolder pickTweezersCross-locking tweezers

with wooden handleThird handCopper tongsWater for quenchingPicklePickle warming potSafety glassesFire extinguisher

page


10/138

Get SetBrass or brass-coated wire,

16 gauge, approximately40 inches 91.4 cm)

2 brass- or gold-platedear wiresFlush cutters

Small fileRound-nose pliersDowel, glass, or bottle

optional)Flat-nose or chain-nose

pliers, 2 pairs

FINISHED SIZEEach, 7 x 4.4 cm,not including findings

DESIGNER S NOTECreate your own ear wiresfrom 20-gauge brass wire ifdesired.

page 1

et ReadyWIREWORK FILING

o1 Using flush cutters, cut twelve 2-inch5.1 cm) pieces and two 6-inch (15.2 cm)

pieces from the 16-gauge brass wire. File theends of each cut wire piece flat and smooth.2 With round-nose pliers, form a smallloop on each end of one 2-inch 5.1 cm) wirepiece. Dont center the loops on the wire; justfold over the ends. Make sure the loops oneach end line up with each other. Repeat withthe other 2-inch 5.1 cm) pieces of brass wire.3 Grasp one 2-inch 5 .1 cm) wire, and startbending it into an arch with your fingers. Runyour fingers along the wire and ease it intoshape, or bend it around a dowel or the topof a bottle . The final shape should be arched ,but not quite a half-circle.4 Using the flat-nose pliers , grab the wireloop at one end of the arched wire andbend it towards the middle of the arch.(When you assemble these arched wires tocreate the earring, they hang downwards;the two loops on each one should bestraight up and down so that you can threadthem onto the larger loop.)

5 With the round-nose pliers, bend bothends of each 6-inch (15.2 cm) piece of wireinto medium-sized loops. Center these endloops on the wires. Bend each wire into afull circle, using a bottle, glass, or dowel ifneeded. The end loops on each circle shouldmeet but just barely touch. The loops will restperpendicular to the plane of each circle.)6 Make two jump rings from the 16-gaugewire, each approximately 1 14 inch (0.6 cm) indiameter. File the edges of the rings flush .Use one jump ring to connect the two loopson each large wire hoop.7 Determine which side of each large hoopwill face front. Open the loops on all the2-inch 5.1 cm) arched wire pieces.8 To assemble the earrings , connect threeof the arched wire pieces side by side ontothe large hoop, positioning them so that theloops all face toward the back of the hoop.9 Connect the loops of another arched wireto the first and second pieces added instep 8. Add another arched wire to thesecond and third pieces added in step 8.10 To complete the scaled look, connect afinal arched wire piece to the ones added instep 9. Repeat steps 8 through 10 to assemblethe other earring. Connect an ear wire to thejump ring at the top of each large hoop.


11/138

DESIGNER M ND SHERO GR NSTROM CIn

CI ICI.


12/138

Get SetSterling silver, gold,

or stainless steel wire ,18 or 20 gauge, 24 to 36inches 61 to 91.4 cm

Bench tool kit, pageVise

FINISHED SIZEVariableExamples shownLeft, 3.5 x 2.5 x 2.5 cmRight, 4 x 2.3 x 2.5 cmBelow, 3.7 x 3.7 x 2.5 cm

DESIGNER S NOTEThese earrings are so quickto make, you can o a testrun with scrap wire firstand still finish a pair in 30minutes.

page 12

et ReadyCUTTING BENDING SANDING

o1 Cut a length of wire that is 12 to 18 inches30.5 to 45.7 cm) long.2 Insert the end of the wire into a vise.Grasp the other end of the wire with pliers.Pull gently but firmly to slightly stretch thewire and straighten it3 Measure approximately 1Y2 to 2 inches3.8 to 5 1 cm) from one end of the wire .

Hold the wire with needle-nose pliers at thatpoint, and bend the long tail over with yourfinger to create a right angle .

4 Continue bending the wire at differentangles and at different lengths to achieve anarchitectural structure.5 Repeat steps 1 through 4 to create asecond earring.6 Form the ear wires from the 1Y2 to2-inch 3.8 to 5 1 cm) sections measured instep 3 Either bend these sections of wire atright angles to go through the ear or roundthem over a mandrel , pen, or other tubularobject. Make sure the ear wires are longenough to prevent the earrings from fallingout of the ear.7 Sand the ends of the ear wires smooth.


13/138

DESIGNER JO NN GOLLBERG


14/138

DESIGNERS T Y ND SILVIJ KOSCHNICK


15/138

Get SetSterling silver cable chain,x 3 mm , 8.9 cm long2 sterling silver ball

headpins, 26 gauge2 grey niobium ear wires2 vintage brass dangles,

each 4.5 x 1.4 cm2 ruby rondelles, 3 x 4 mmBench tool kit, page 9Liver of sulfur optional)Fine steel wool

FINISHED SIZEEach S x 0.5 x 0.4 cm

TIME SAVERIf you purchase pre-oxidizedcable chain and headpinsyou can go straight to step 2

et ReadyCUTTING WIREWORK ADDING A PATINA OPTIONAL)

1 Blacken the sterling silver cable chainand headpins in a liver of sulfur solution2 Cut the cable chain into two 4.4-cmpieces3 Open the niobium ear wires with pliersand attach the brass dangle and a length ofchain Close the ear wires

4 String a ruby rondelle onto each ballheadpin Thread one headpin through thebottom link of each chain and wrap the endof the headpin around itself just above therondelle Snip off any excess wireS Gently rub the chains and headpins withfine steel wool until the desired patina isachieved

page 5


16/138

Get SetRound brass wire,

24 gauge, 5 feet 1.5 m)30 lapis lazuli round beads,

mm

gold-plated jump rings,7mm

2 gold-plated ear wiresBench tool kit page 9

FINISHED SIZEEach hoop, 7 x 5.5 x 0.4 cm

page 6

~ et ReadyWIREWORK BEAD STRINGING

1 Using side-cutting pliers, cut six pieces ofbrass wire, each 9 inches 22.9 cm) long.2 Hold three of the wire pieces side by sideso that you can bend them simultaneouslyUse round-nose pliers to create a loop in thegathered wires, about 1 inch 2.5 cm) fromone end . Wrap the tail around the loop , andclip off the excess wire. Use flat-nose pliersto bend the edges into a neatly formed ,wrapped loop.

3 Slide 15 lapis beads onto the middlewire. Using round-nose pliers, makeanother wrapped loop at the other end ofthe three wires.4 Use chain-nose pliers to open a jumpring. Slide both wrapped loops onto the jumpring to form a teardrop shape. Slip n ear wireonto the jump ring, and close the jump ring.5 Repeat steps 1 through 4 to make thesecond earring.


17/138

DESIGNER: NJ NETTE R NDOLPH


18/138

DESIGNER L UR ITKONEN


19/138

a. et SetVHS videotape

silver jump rings20 gauge 10 mmin diameter

silver jump rings20 gauge 6.5 mmin diameter

silver earring hooksScrewdriverPointed pliersNeedle or straight pinFlat pliersScissors

FINISHED SIZEEach 7.5 x 6.5 x 1.3 cm

et ReadyWIREWORK

1 Open the VHS videotape with ascrewdriver and pu out the tape.2 Open the 10-mm silver jump rings withpliers.3 Using a needle or straight pin, makea hole about 4 mm from one end of thevideotape and centered across its width.4 Slip an opened 10-mm silver jump ringthrough the hole, handling the tape with care.

5 Determine how large to make the firsttape loop on the earring. Then, pierceanother hole in the tape and slip the tapeonto the silver ring . (On this project, thissecond hole is about 6 cm from the first.)Repeat this process to form a series oftape loops on the jump ring, sizing themin any way you like. Note If you 'd like yourearrings to match, record the distancesbetween the holes.6 Close the jump ring with pliers . Trim awaythe excess tape with scissors , leaving about4 mm of tape beyond the last hole made .7 Open the smaller silver jump ring , slip itthrough the larger jump ring , and close itOpen up the earring hook, slip it through thesmaller jump ring , and close it8 Repeat steps 2 through 7 to make asecond earring. The earrings don't have tomatch, so you can really be creative whenmaking them

page 9


20/138

et SetDrawing paper, acrylic

paints (includingmetaliics), and an oldcredit card or preprinteddecorative papers

2 mini craft woodblocks,each 1.5 cm square

2 ear wires or ooksDouble-sided tapeCraft knifeAwl or sharp piercing tool2 screw eyes, each 11 mmPliers

FINISHED SIZEEach box, 1.5 cm square

page 2

~ Get ReadyTAPING WIREWORK PAINTING (OPTIONAL)

1 Option: To create your own decorativepapers, spread the acrylic paints onto thedrawing paper, and smear or drag themaround with the old credit card until the paperis covered. Add gold or metallic highlights toaccentuate the design. Allow the paint to dryfor five minutes.2 Attach double-sided tape to the back ofthe decorative paper.3 Select two wood blocks that are similarin size (these blocks can vary slightly). Setone block on top of the tape on the paper.Trim around the paper so it fits one surfaceof the block as closely as possible. Repeatthis process to adhere paper to all surfacesof both blocks.4 Decide which surface will be the top ofeach earring, making sure that both blockslook symmetrical when placed side by side.Pierce a small pilot hole in the center of thetop of each block with an awl.5 Insert a screw eye into each pilot hole ,keeping it as straight as possible. The woodblocks are soft, so the screw eyes are usuallyeasy to twist in by hand, but if they re tight,just use pliers to turn them gently.6 Attach the earring hooks to the screw eyes

Have Time to SpareAttach another screw eye to the bottom ofeach wood block. Then add beads, charms,or other decorative elements to furtherembellish the design.

Want to Make Another PairConsider using new or vintage photographsin place of painted paper.


21/138

DESIGNER HE THER CROSSLEY

NCIn

CI ICI.


22/138

K REN R KOSK


23/138

... et Set12-karat gold-filled wire

22 gauge 30.5 cm2 gold-filled ear wires

or posts and nutsBench tool kit page 9Fine point round-nose

pliers

FINISHED SIZEEach 2.5 x 1.9 cm

DESIGNER S NOTEUse the template belowas a guide for bendingthe wire, The instructionsstart at the wrapped loopand move toward theporcupines head,

et ReadyWIREWORK

1 Using round-nose pliers, make a smallopen loop, 6 mm from one end of the wire,You insert the earring post into this loop later,)2 Starting at a point 8 mm from the loop,bend 6-mm of the wire upward and the next6 mm downward to make the first quill. Repeatto make a second quill. Using the smoothportion of the chain-nose pliers, squeeze thetips of each quill tightly, (Note: Making thesequills uniform in size is easiest if you mark the6 mm dimension on your plier jaws first, anduse the jaws to measure the wire,)3 To create the porcupines eye, 6 mm fromthe base of the second quill , wrap the wirearound the very tip of the round-nose pliers,To create the nose, make a sharp bend backtoward the body, 6 mm from the eye,4 At a point 6 mm from the nose, bend thewire away from the body to start the front leg ,Squeeze this bend tightly, To shape the foot ,make another sharp bend , 5 mm from thefirst, and squeeze it tightly, The back of theleg is 6 mm long,5 The next 1,3 cm of wire forms the belly,Round this section w ith your finger or with thewide part of the round-nose pliers, At the endof the belly, make a sharp forward bend tostart the back leg, and squeeze it tightly, Thefront of this leg is 5 mm long , Make a secondbend to shape the foot , squeezing it tightly,as well, The back of the leg , from the foot tothe tip of the tail , is 1,6 m long,

6 To shape the tail , make a sharp bendat its tip , and another 6 mm farther along,Squeeze the tip of the tail tightly,7 Shape each of the back quills byrepeating step 2 four times, Bend the wireupward from the base of the last quill , andsqueeze the tips of each quill tightly,8 Use the chain-nose pliers to make agO-degree bend, 6 mm from the base ofthe last quill. Beginning at this bend , wrapthe wire around the base of the open loop,ending at the back, With the flush cutters,clip off the excess from this end of the wire,Bend the original end of the wire (below theloop) up against the wraps, and cut it offshort and flush,9 Repeat steps 1 through 8 to make thesecond earring, Feed an ear wire or postthrough the earring loop,

page 3


24/138

et SetIron wire, 20 gauge,

851;2 inches (2.2 m)Heavy-duty flush cuttersMetal fileRound-nose pliersChain-nose or flat-nosepliersUtility hammerBrass or steel wire brushWax sealant

FINISHED SIZEEach hoop,5.7 x 5.7 x 0.5 cm

page 4

~ Get ReadyWIREWORK FILING HAMMERING

1 Cut two 2 ; -inch 7 cm) lengths of ironwire and set them aside . You 'll shape theminto ear wires later.)2 Cut the remaining iron wire in half. Eachpiece should be about 40 inches 101 .6 cm)long. Set one piece aside.3 File one end of the 40-inch (101.6 cm)wire smooth . Using round-nose pliers, bend1 cm of the wire into a small loop.4 Using your fingers , form the wire intoa loose coil that measures approximately2 inches (5.7 cm) in diameter. Includesubtle corners and errant loops to achievea look of controlled chaos . Continue untila total of six rounds have been formed ,reserving about 1 to 1 inches 2 .5 to3.2 cm) of straight wire at the end.

5 Using chain-nose or flat-nose pliers , benda right angle in the reserved wire , at the endof the last circle, then wrap the end of the wiretwo to three times around the circles to bindthem together. Trim the end if necessary, thenfile it and tuck it into the wrapped circles.6 Open the small wire loop made in step 3,and close it around an adjacent wire in thecoil. (Note: Because the coil should be fairlyflat, this is a goo place to arrange and tuckin splaying wires.) Hammer the coil , beingcareful with areas where the wire overlaps.7 To make the ear wires , file one end flatand form a small loop at the other end . Thenbend the wire into a U shape at its center.Using chain-nose or flat-nose pliers, bendthe filed end of the ear wire at an angle.Forge the angled end of the ear w ire, fileaway any burrs, and hammer the central partof the wire.8 Select a point on the coil to be the top ofthe hoop. Choose a wire from the six roundsat this point, and attach the ear-wire loop to it.9 Repeat steps 3 through 8 to make thesecond earring. Clean the earrings with thewire brush and seal them with wax .


25/138

DESIGNER BREND SCHWEDER


26/138

DESIGNER MY T VERN


27/138

... Get SetCovered button kit2 fabric pieces, eachx 2 2 inches

5.1 6.4 cm)2 fabric pieces, each2 inches 3.8 cm)

square2 sterling silver or silver

tone closed jump rings,each 5 mm

2 sterling silver or silvertone ear wires

ScissorsNeedleThread, matching or

complementary colorsChain-nose pliers

FINISHED SIZEEach, 5.1 x 2.9 x 0.8 cm

DESIGNER S NOTESKits for making coveredbuttons are available atmost fabric stores andcraft supply centers.The fabric in this projectis a woven wool blend.

et ReadySTITCHING WIREWORK

1 Following the button-kit instructions,make two 1 -inch (2.9 cm) and two s-inch(1.6 cm) covered buttons. Hint: I like to usethe tips of my scissors to gently coax thefabric so it catches on the teeth on the toppart of the button.2 Use a needle and thread to stitch a largebutton to a small button at their adjoiningedges. Take care to hide the knots and clipthe thread ends close; you shouldn t be ableto see your stitches when you re finished.Repeat to attach the other two buttons.3 Stitch a jump ring to the top edge of eachsmall button. Be careful not to stitch tootightly, as this will cause the fabric to stretchand may cause it to tear Hide the knots, andclip the thread ends close.4 Using chain-nose pliers, open the earwires just enough to slip the jump rings ontothem. Gently close the findings with the pliers.

page 27


28/138

DESIGNERS BRY N ND NDRE RING


29/138

... et SetLicense plateSterling silver tubing,

3 mm inside diameterSterling silver wire,

20 gauge, approximately6 inches 15.2 cm)Bench tool kit, page 9

FINISHED SIZETop pair:Each, 3 x 1.4 x 1.5 cm

et ReadyDRILLING SAWING RIVETINGBENDING WIREWORK

1 Mark two rectangles on the license plate ,each 6 x 1.4 cm. Gradually taper and roundthe narrow ends of both rectangle drawings .The shapes now resemble long ovals.)2 Using a drill bit that corresponds to theoutside diameter of the sterling silver tubing ,drill a centered hole approximately 5 mmfrom each end of both metal shapes .3 Cut out both drilled metal shapes , thenfile and sand their edges.

4 Measure the thickness of the licenseplate. Cut out four pieces of silver tubing ,each 2 mm longer than the thickness of thelicense plate . Tube rivet all four drilled holes.These rivets are decorative rather than

functional.)5 Bend each metal form into a hoop andalign the riveted holes.6 To make the ear wires , first cut the sterlingsilver wire in half. Feed one end of the wirethrough the aligned tube rivets , bend a neatloop, and wrap a tail of wire around the loop.Cut off any excess wire at the end o thewrapped loop. Bend the remaining wire intothe ear hook. Repeat this process with thesecond earring and wire.7 To finish the earrings, tap the ear wireswith a hammer to work harden them.

Want to Make Another PairTry these easy variations : Change the dimensions of the metal oval Join both drilled ends with one tube rivet

page 9


30/138

et SetSterling silver sheet

18 gauge at least 1 x 4 cmsterling silver ear wires

Bench tool kit page 9Hammer handpiece forflexible shaft fitted

with diamond-tippedtexturing tool orcylindrical diamond burr

pairs of parallel plierswith ends protected bytape or leather

FINISHED SIZEEach 5 x 0.5 x 0.5 cm

page 3

et ReadySAWING FILING SANDING POLISHINGTEXTURING DRILLING TWISTING

1 Scribe two rectangles, each 4.5 x 40 mm ,on the sterling silver sheet and cut them out.File 7 mm of each end into a long , taperedpoint with a rounded tip.2 Sand the edges of the shapes withmedium-grit and then fine-grit emery paper.Polish the fronts , backs , and edges.3 Using the hammer handpiece fitted witha diamond-tipped texturing tool , evenlytexture the entire front surfaces of bothsilver shapes. (Alternatively, use a cylindricaldiamond burr and the flex shaft to apply neven texture.) Re-polish the back surfacesand edges if needed .

4 Mark a hole for the ear hooks near the t ppoint of each silver shape, and drill the holeswith a 0.8-mm drill bit.5 Using the parallel pliers, grasp the topand bottom tapered sections of one of thesilver shapes. Rotate the pliers in oppositedirections until you ve twisted the shape360 degrees. Repeat with the second shape.6 Attach the ear hooks to completethe earrings.

DESIGNER NN L LUMSDEN


31/138


32/138

Get Set2 copper washers, inch

(1.9 cm) OD2 sterling silver round

wires, dead soft,20 gauge, each 11.4 cm

2 ear wiresBench tool kit page 9Liver of sulfur (optional)Steel wool (optional)

FINISHED SIZEEach, 2.2 x 2 x 0 .2 cm

page 3

et ReadyHAMMERING WIREWORK ADDING A PATINA (OPTIONAL)

1 On a bench block or anvil , hammer atexture on one side of each washer using theball end of a ball-peen hammer.2 Straighten the two pieces of silver wire .Using round-nose pliers, bend each wireinto an elongated U shape , with parallellegs of equal length that are approximately

4 mm apart.3 Measure and mark each leg of a bentwire, 4 mm from the bend . Repeat with theother wire.4 Grasp a wire with flat-nose pliers, justabove the marks, and bend the legs up toform gO-degree angles.5 Insert the wire ends through the center ofa washer, from the back. Holding the washerwith flat-nose pliers, carefully bend the w ireends and feed them through the hairpin loop.

,

VARIATION

6 Use the pliers to pull both wires tightlythrough the loop. Then bring each wirearound the outside of the loop (on oppositesides) and back to the front of the washer.Trim both wires to 2.5 cm in length.7 With round-nose pliers, form both wireends into matching spirals, directing themaway from the center of the earring. Thenpress the spirals down so that they rest onthe front of the washer8 Repeat steps 4 through 7 to create thesecond earring.9 On both earrings, attach an ear wire tothe U-shaped loop in the silver w ire10 To achieve an antique patina, dip theearrings in a warm liver of sulfur solution,rinse them in cold water, and buff them withsteel wool.

l

DESIGNER N NCY WICKM N


33/138


34/138

/

DESIGNER: CH RLES C RUBI


35/138

a. et Set2 gold sheets 14-karat

24 gauge each5.4 2.2 cm

2 gold jump rings 14-karat22 or 20 gauge

2 gold ear wires 14-karatBench tool kit page 9Photocopied design

template GFINISHED SIZEEach 4.5 x 2 x 0.5 cm

et ReadyPIERCING DRILLING SAWING FILINGDAPPING FORMING POLISHING

1 Cut out the photocopied design template.Glue or tape the two gold sheets together.(This allows you to cut out identical patternsat the same time.) Glue the template to thestacked gold sheets.2 To remove the waste metal from theinterior of each pattern , first create anindentation in that area with the centerpunch , and then drill a hole at this point foryour saw blade. Saw out this interior areawith the jeweler s saw Then cut around theexterior lines of the pattern.

3 Remove any remaining glue or tape fromthe sawed metal shapes. File and slightlybevel all metal edges on both pieces.4 Dome both ends of each metal shapein the dapping block. (Since there is a rightand left earring , make sure they re ome onopposite sides.)5 The narrow end of each metal formis threaded through the interior cutout inthe wider end. Begin by using the half-round pliers to make a gentle bend in thenarrowest, center area of the form. Thenthread the narrow end through the cutout.Finish bending and shaping the metal withyour fingers .6 Add a jump ring and an ear wire to eachearring. Polish both earrings.

page 5


36/138

Get SetSterling silver sheet,

24 gauge, at least3x4 2 cm

Round sterling silver wire,20 gauge, 14.5 cm

4 sterling silver crimpbeads, to fit snugly onthe wire

Bicone crystal beads,6 mm 6) and 4 mm 4)

Bench tool kit page 9

FINISHED SIZEEach, 3.7 x 1.4 x 1 cm

page 36

~ et ReadySAWING FILING SANDING POLISHINGDRILLING BENDING WIREWORK

1 Scribe two 1.4 x 4.2-cm rectangles on thesterling silver sheet, and cut them out.2 File and sand the edges of therectangles, and polish all their surfaces.3 Drill a hole near each end of bothrectangles, 5 mm from the end and centeredacross the width.4 Cover the front surfaces of the rectangleswith tape to protect them. Then bend eachpiece over a cylindrical surface to form agentle curve. Remove the protective tapeand re-polish the pieces if necessary.5 Re-drill the holes in each rectangle, usingthe same bit but angling the holes so thatyou ll be able to insert a silver wire throughthe top and bottom holes of each onewithout bending it (see step 8 .

6 Cut the silver wire in half and straightenit if necessary. Sand and polish the endsof both pieces. Attach a crimp bead to thebottom of each wire by squeezing it tightlywith chain-nose pliers.7 Pass a wire up through the bottom hole ofeach rectangle, from the back, and string onthe crystal beads, experimenting to achievethe look you want. Pass the wire through thetop hole, string on another crimp bead, andcrimp the bead in place against the back ofeach earring .8 Using flat half-round pliers, bend thewires to fit through ear lobes , then bend theremaining length to follow the curve of theearring. If the wires are too long, cut themto the desired length , then round and polishtheir ends.



37/138


38/138

r

DESIGNER MELISS LEW


39/138

a. Get Set2 round, half-drilled

freshwater pearls,each 5 to 6 mm

Sterling silver sheet, deadsoft, 28 gauge, 1 xinches (3.8 x 5 1 cm)

2 sterling silver ear studsand nuts, 4-mm cups

Bench tool kit, page 9Watchmaker s gluePhotocopied design

templatee

FINISHED SIZEEach, 1 inch (2.5 cm)

et ReadySAWING FILING SANDINGDRILLING DAPPING

1 Glue each of the half-drilled pearls ontothe peg of an ear stud. Allow the glue to dry.2 Using a scribe, transfer the photocopiedflower template onto the sterling silver sheettwo times.3 Cut out the flower shapes with a jeweler'ssaw. File and sand all cut metal edges toclean and smooth them.4 Create a subtle texture of radiating lineson each flower by running sandpaper from thecenter of the flower out to the tip of each petal.

5 Drill a hole in the center of each silverflower, making sure the hole is large enoughto accommodate an ear stud.6 Drill five additional decorative holes, onecentered at the base of each flower petal asshown on the design template). Sand thedrilled holes smooth.7 Place one silver flower in the center ofthe wooden dapping block. Using a dap andchasing hammer, depress the flower's centralarea so it 's evenly concave . Repeat this stepwith the second flower.8 Attach a pearl ear post to each silverflower by running it through the hole in thecenter of the flower.

Have Time to SpareMake these earrings super versatile bycreating additional pearls studs in a range ofsizes and colors to mix and match.

page 9


40/138

et SetAnnealed sterling silver

sheet, 24 gauge, largeenough to accomodatefour punched papershapes see step 2)2 sterling silver ear wiressterling silver jump rings,each mm in diameterBench tool kit, page 9Medium-sized paperpunches sun, flower,leaf, and snowflake

designs)Heavyweight paperClear tapeRolling millPlastic template sheets,square and circle,approximately 1.7 cmSteel burnisher optional)

FINISHED SIZEEach, 4.7 x 1.7 x 0.4 cmDESIGNER S NOTEYou may want to experimentrolling scrap silver sheetthrough the mill in orderto determine the settingthat will yield the desiredresult. Insufficient pressurewill create a weak imagewhile too much pressure willdistort the design.

page 4

et ReadySAWING POLISHING ROLLER PRINTING FILINGSANDING DRILLING WIREWORK

Using the paper punches andheavyweight paper punch out each of thefour designs.2 Scribe four squares onto the sterlingsilver sheet making each one large enoughto allow for a 3- to 4-mm margin on eachside of the punched paper shapes. Cut outthe squares and polish their front surfaces .3 Center a punched paper design on thepolished surface of each silver square andplace a plain piece of the same paper on theback surface sandwiching the silver betweenthe two pieces of paper. Protect the frontsurfaces of the silver squares by coveringthem with clear tape.

4 Roll each silver and paper stack throughthe mill. f necessary flatten the rolled sheetsby hand or with pliers with protected jaws.5 Using the square and circle templates mark a square on each silver sheet andmark rounded tops on two of them. Cut outthese shapes and file and sand their edges .Use the steel burnisher to polish the edges ifdesired.6 Using the project photo as a guide markand drill holes for the jump rings and earhooks. Remove the protective tape andattach the jump rings and hooks.



41/138


42/138

Get SetSterling silver, copper,

or brass sheet, 20 to 22gauge, 5 1 x 7.6 cm

Bench tool kit, page 9photocopies of designtemplate

Rubber cement3 radial bristle disks,

400 gritWax sealant optional)

FINISHED SIZEEach, 6 x 0.7 x 2 1 cm

DESIGNER'S NOTESVary the drill bit diameters tocreate graduated-size holesin the earrings.If you chose to use finesilver, the thicker, 20-gaugesheet is preferable .

page 4

~ et ReadyDRILLING SAWING FILING FINISHINGWAXING OPTIONAL)

1 Cut out the photocopied designtemplates, leaving at least inch 0 .3 cm) ofpaper around each design .2 Spread rubber cement on the backs ofthe templates and on the surface of the metalsheet. Let the adhesive set for a few secondsand then place the templates on the metalsheet, arranging them as close to each otheras possible to reduce waste.3 Using a center punch and chasinghammer, lightly dimple each mark for thedrilled holes. Using a well-lubricated bit, drillholes at the dimples.

VARIATION

4 Cut out both earrings with the jeweler'ssaw. Remove all paper and rubber cementfrom the metal. File the edges of the earringssmooth and deburr the drilled holes, ifnecessary.S With the bristle disk attachments turningat medium speed, gently go over theearrings in one direction, rounding out thecurved edges first and then running over theother surfaces.6 Using a kitchen scrub pad and dish soap,wash the earrings to remove any sandingdust, dirt, or oil from fingers . Dry the earrings.7 Optional: Warm a tiny bit of wax sealantwith your fingers and spread it in a thin ,even coat over all earring surfaces. Set theearrings aside to dry for a couple of minutesbefore buffing them w ith a clean rag.

DESIGNER MI HELLE SOTOLONGO


43/138


44/138

DESIGNER LIS C IN


45/138

--. Get Setpackets of square silver

clay sheetCopper sheet, 28 gauge,

7.6 cm squareround sterling silver

wires, 20 gauge, each9 cm long

Bench tool kit, page 9Soldering kit page 9Programmable kiln suitable

for firing metal clay, withkiln shelf

Flower-shaped paperpunches in 3 sizesKiln forkBrass bristle wheelRound-hole drawplate

and flat steel hammeroptional)

Knitting needle


et ReadyBASIC METAL CLAY WORK DRILLING MELTING WIRE ENDSDAPPING FINISHING WIREWORK

o1 Preheat the kiln to 1650F (900C) and setit to hold for 15 minutes. Open the packetsof metal clay sheet. Use the paper punchesto punch out six flowers from the sheets,two in each of the three sizes. Place the sixflowers on the kiln shelf. Use the kiln fork toplace the shelf carefully in the kiln. Shut thedoor quick ly to avoid heat loss. Keep an eyeon the kiln and the time. The flowers need aminimum of 10 minutes at 1650F (900C).2 Use the paper punches to punch out sixflowers from the 28-gauge copper sheet, twoin each of the three sizes. Mark the center ofeach copper flower with the center punch,and drill holes through those points with a0.9-mm drill bit.3 Use a torch to melt a ball on one end ofeach 20-gauge sterling silver wire. Pickle andrinse the balled wires. Shine the wires witha brass bristle brush and soapy water, andthen rinse and dry them. Optional: To flattenthe balls on the wire ends, thread one wirethrough the 0.8-mm hole in a drawplate untilthe ball is flush with the front part of the plate.Use a flat steel hammer to tap the ball into aflat round. Repeat with the other wire.4 Once the metal clay flowers have firedfor 10 minutes, carefully remove the hotkiln shelf with the kiln fork and place it ona heatproof surface close to the kiln. Pickup the hot metal flowers with tweezers andquench then in water. Dry the flowers well .5 Mark the center of each silver flower withthe center punch, and drill holes at thosepoints with the 0.9-mm bit. This only takes afew seconds by hand, as the metal is so thin .)

6 To make the earrings, stack the silverand copper flowers in alternating layers ofgraduated sizes, with the largest flowerson the bottom. (Because metal clay slightlyshrinks when fired, each stack will have sixdifferent sizes of flowers.)7 Place a set of stacked flowers into a widedapping block, with the largest flower on thebottom. Press down on the stack with a largedoming punch to give the flowers a gentlecurve. (There s no need to use a hammer, asthe thin metal bends very easily.) Repeat withthe other stack.8 Thread an earring wire through the holesin one stack so that the ball rests at the front.Push the ball against the smallest flower, andhold it in place with your thumb. With yourother hand, bend the wire up at a 90angle,as close to the back of the stacked flowersas possible. Repeat to attach a wire to theother earring.9 Dip each earring into soapy water. Then,using a small brass bristle wheel and flexshaft, flick over the surface of each wet flowerfor a few seconds, inside and out. Be carefulnot to catch the edges of the flower, or you llbend them.10 To shape the wires into matchinghooks, bend one over a knitting needleto form an arch. Leave this earring on theneedle as you bend the other wire next toit. Using half-round pliers, shape a series ofgentle curves in each ear wire. If needed,snip the wires to matching lengths. File andsand the ends of the wires so they ll slidecomfortably through your ear lobes.

page 5


46/138

Get Set2 square sterling silver

wires, 10 gauge, each1 inch 2.5 cm)

2 round faceted stones,each 3 mm

2 sterling silver fish-hookear wires, 2 gauge

Bench tool kit page 9Piece of scrap copper

sheet optional)Hart burr 3 mm


page 6

et ReadyDRILLING SAWING FILING STONE SETTINGSANDING WIREWORK

o1 Using a center punch and hammer, markthe metal on one face of one wire, about2 mm from the top. With the flex shaft anda 1-mm bit, drill a hole straight through thesquare wire. Repeat this step, and all thefollowing steps, to create the second earringat the same time.2 On the same face as the drilled hole butat the opposite end, measure up about 7 mmfrom the bottom of the wire. Use dividers tomark a line from that point, down the middleof the wire to the bottom.3 Using a jeweler s saw, cut straight alongthe marked line. Separate the cut square wireinto two sections, forming a V shape. (Tip:Inserting a small piece of thin copper into thecut is the easiest way to start separating themetal. This also prevents marking the metal.)4 Gently file the inner surfaces of the V cutwith a barrette needle file to smooth out anysaw marks. With the same file, smooth theblunt edges at the ends of the V by filingthem at slight angles.

5 For the earring to hang properly, the topend of the square wire needs thinning. To othis, use a flat file to create slopes on bothdrilled faces by filing them at an angle. Whenthe metal is thin enough, smooth out the topedge with a barrette needle file.6 To create the seat for the stone, use theflex shaft and hart burr. Position the burrslightly more than halfway up the interior ofthe inverted V and a little towards the frontof the earring. You may need to slightlyclose the V with flat pliers so that the metalsurfaces meet the burr.) Push the burr intothe top of the narrowed V to form the seat.7 Set the stone into the grooves with its table(flat face) facing out, and carefully close theV with flat pliers. Check to make sure that thestone is immobile and secure within the seat.8 Using emery paper, sand all the outermetal surfaces in the same direction until thefinish is even and matte.9 Using round-nose pliers, carefully uncurlthe loop at the bottom of the ear wire, slip theend through the hole at the top of the earring(making sure the proper stone surface isfacing forward), and loop the wire backaround the top of the earring. You may needto adjust the loop to ensure that the earringhangs freely from the ear wire.

DESIGNER M RE CHERNOFF


47/138


48/138

DESIGNER ELLEN HIMI


49/138

. Get SetRubber sheet 2 mm thick

color of your choiceSilver sheet 20 gauge

1.5 cm16 silver tube beads 2 mm

in diameter and length2 silver wires 18 gauge

each 7.6 cm2 half-drilled freshwater

pearlsBench tool kit page 9Disk cutterSewing needleFive-minute epoxyCrimping pliers

FINISHED SIZEEach 5.1 x 2 x 1.2 cm

TIM SAVERPurchase readymade silverand rubber disks and youwon't have to spend anytime punching your own

et ReadyUSING A DISK CUTTER SANDING DRILLING WIREWORK

1 Using the disk cutter, punch out varioussizes of circles from the rubber and silversheets. In this project, each earring features:2 small rubber disks (0.6 cm); 2 large rubberdisks 1.1 cm); 2 small silver disks 1 cm) ;and 1 large silver disk (1.3 cm) .2 Sand the edges of the silver diskssmooth. Drill a hole through the center ofeach silver disk and smooth away any burrs.

3 Use a sewing needle to make a hole inthe center of each rubber disk.4 Feed the tube beads onto the 18-gaugewires, alternating them with the rubber andsilver disks. In the earrings pictured , thedisks are fed in this order, each separated bytube beads: small rubber, small silver, largerubber, large silver, large rubber, small silver,small rubber.)5 Using the five-minute epoxy, glue a halfdrilled pearl onto the wire at the bottom ofeach earring. Let dry.6 Slide the beads and discs down eachwire to meet the pearl. Crimp the tube beadat the top of each stack with crimping pliers.7 Shape the upper end of each wire into anear hook with round needle-nose pliers.

page 9


50/138

DESIGNER BORIS B LLY


51/138

--. Get SetSterling silver wire,

18 gauge, 14 inches35.6 cm)

2 square brass rods,gauge, each 11;2

inches 3.8 cm)Sterling silver tube, 1.6 mm00 1 mm 10 3 inches7.6 cm)

2 earring posts and nutsBench tool kit, page 9Table viseDraw tongs or vise-grip

pliersConical burr setting

burr or hart burr),approximately 2 mm

Patina for brass optional)Steel wool optional)Rolling mill

FINISHED SIZEEach, 4.5 x x 1.6 cm

Get ReadySAWING FILING SANDING DRILLINGUSING A ROLLING MILL FINISHING

Go1 To stretch, straighten, and temper thesilver wire, and reduce its diameter, tightenone end in the table vise, grasp the otherend with draw tongs or vise-grip pliers, andpull the wire straight toward you. Cut thestraightened silver wire into six pieces: two1 ;2 inches (3.8 cm) long; two 1 inches(3.2 cm) long; and two 1 inch (2.5 cm) long.2 Deburr the ends of the brass pieces witha flat file and sand them with emery paper tocreate a smooth finish.3 Cut the silver tube into six -inch-Iong(1 cm) and two 1 16-inch-long (0.5 cm) pieces.Smooth and deburr the edges with a file .Use the conical burr to deburr the interiorof each tube.4 Choose one flat surface on each brassrod piece, and measure and mark points thatare 4 mm , 8 mm , and 12 mm up from thebottom. Use a center punch to make a divotat each marked point.5 Rotate each brass rod piece 90 degreesso that a flat surface adjacent to the divotedone is face up. Measure, mark, and divoteach piece, 4 mm down from the top. Eachbrass piece should now have a mark on oneflat surface, near one end, and three markson an adjacent surface, at the other end.Using a 1.6-mm bit, drill four holes througheach brass piece , one at each divot. Deburrthe drilled holes.6 Polish the silver with a polishing cloth.Finish the brass as desired: polish it , usesteel wool for a matte finish , sandblast it , oradd an oxide patina.

7 Insert one of the longest silver wires into along tube. Carefully push this assembly intothe lowest of the three holes in the brass rod.Push a medium-length silver wire into a longtube, and insert that into the middle hole.Finally, push one of the shortest wires intothe remaining long tube, and insert the tubeinto the uppermost hole. Center the tubesin the holes, and align the wire ends evenlyon one side, as shown in the project photo.Repeat this step with the other wires, tubes,and rod.8 Open the rolling mill rollers toaccommodate the thickness of one brassrod. Insert the bottom of the rod the endwith the silver inserts into the roller. Tightenthe tension wheel on the roller one-half turn.Check the earring assembly to make surenothing is out of position, then slowly forceabout 2 cm of the rod through the roller,passing the silver inserts. Back the assemblyout and inspect it for alignment. Repeat thisprocess several times , gradually tighteningthe roller tension each time in smallincrements, until all three silver componentsare firmly held in place by pressure and nolonger move when pulled. Repeat this stepwith the other assembled earring .9 Insert an earring post into each of theshortest silver tubes , and insert the tubesinto the holes at the top of each earring. Runthis end of each earring through the roller,as you did in step 8 but only roll 1 cm of therod's length, just past the ear post-and-tubeassembly. Wipe the earrings clean or applya patina to the brass or silver or to both.

page 5


52/138

et SetCopper sheet, 2 gauge,

3-inch 7.6 cm) square2 sterling silver French

ear wiresBench tool kit, page 9Soldering kit, page 9Fine steel woolCircle punch, ;4 inches

3.2 cm) in diameterSanding stickStamping toolPatina solution, to color

copper without coloringsilver

FINISHED SIZEEach, 5 x 3.2 cm

DESIGNER S NOTEInstead of stamping, youcan use a rolling mill tocreate a texture or buypatterned sheet.

page 5

Get ReadyPUNCHING FILING SANDING STAMPING MELTING SOLDERDRILLING DAPPING ADDING A PATINA

Go Rub the steel wool over both sides of the

copper sheet. Using the circle punch , cut outtwo circles from the sheet , each 1 ;4 inches(3.2 cm) in diameter. File the edges of bothcircles with the metal file , and sand them withthe sanding stick.2 Stamp a design on each circle , using astamping tool and hammer. Either choosea deep design or hammer heavily. (For thisproject, the copper circles were entirelycovered with randomly placed designs.)3 Place one stamped copper circle rightside up on the charcoal block, and flux itPlace wire solder in locking tweezers . Heatthe copper to flow temperature, and rub thewire solder over the copper to flow the solder.Continue until the entire piece is coveredwith solder. If necessary, use a pick to move

the solder. Repeat this step with the secondcopper circle. Pickle, rinse , and dry bothcircles.4 Carefully file the solder off each circleuntil the pattern is revealed, and stop filing assoon as you see the pattern . Then , sand thecircles with the sanding stick. (Don't sand toomuch or you'll remove your pattern )5 Determine the top of each earring anddrill a hole that is 2 mm inside the edge.Sand the burrs off after drilling .6 Dome the earrings in a dapping block.7 Following the manufacturer's instructions,add a patina to the earrings. Insert the earwires through the drilled holes .

Want to Make Another Pair?Mix up your metals Make these earringswith sterling silver sheet and gold solder orwith gold sheet and sterling silver solder.

DESIGNER DEBOR H FEHRENB CH


53/138

~ et Ready


54/138

Get SetPage from a bookSilver sheet, gauge2 silver wires, gauge,

each 8 cm2 silver ear wiresBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9

optional)GlueStain or paraffinSmall paintbrush


page 5

GLUING VARNISHING SAWING DRILLING DAPPING FILINGSANDING MELTING WIRE ENDS OPTIONAL) WIREWORK

1 Cut two strips of paper from the page of abook, each 3 x 18 cm. Roll up each strip, andglue down its end .2 Varnish the paper rolls by applying stainor paraffin with a small paintbrush. Let dry.3 Saw out six circles from the silver sheet,each 9 mm in diameter (or use a disk cutter).4 In the center of each circle , make anindentation with the center punch . Usinga O.8-mm bit, drill holes through theindentations.

5 Using a dapping block and punches,dome the metal circles. Re-drill the centerholes on the domes. File and sand the edgesto finish them.6 To make a small ball on one end of eachpiece of silver wire, start by grasping thewire with tweezers and fluxing one end . Thenhold the wire upside down, and heat it fromunderneath with a torch . (If you don t have asoldering torch, just round the wire ends withround-nose pliers .7 Cut each w ire to 4.5 cm in length. Usefiles and sandpaper to finish the surfaces ofthe balled wire.8 To assemble each earring , thread a wirethrough a domed circle (convex surface facedown) , a paper roll , and two more domedcircles the first with its convex surfacefacing up, and the other with that surfacefacing down. Using round-nose pliers, formthe upper end of the wire into a loop, andinsert an ear wire through the loop.

DESIGNER INGEBORG V ND MME


55/138


56/138

DESIGNER DOROTHE HOSOM

et Ready


57/138

a. Get SetCompact disc jewel case,

black plasticSteel wire, 22 gauge, 5 cm2 gunmetal ear wiresBench tool kit, page 9TweezersGun blue for steelHousehold glueAcrylic satin varnish

optional)Colored metal foil

optional)


DESIGNER S NOTESteel wire and gun blue areavailable at many hardwarestores. Beading stores andjewelry suppliers sell the earwires, and crafts shops oftencarry colored metal foil.

SAWING FILING SANDING DRILLING WIREWORK

1 Using a scribe, mark four circles on theCD jewel case, each 1.7 cm in diameter.2 Cut out the circles with a jeweler s saw,and then lightly file and sand all edges . Marka center line through each circle.3 n each circle, measure, mark, and cutout a slot that is 9 mm long and 1 mm wide.The slot runs from the edge of the circle toits center.4 Fit the slots of the circles together in pairsto make two earrings.

5 At the top of each earring, drill a hole onthe thin edge of the intersecting circles.6 Cut the 22-gauge wire in half. With roundnose pliers , form one end of each wire into asmall loop.7 Grip each wire with tweezers and dip itinto the gun blue. Rinse the wires immediatelyand wipe them off with a paper towel.S Apply a very small amount of glue to thestraight end of each wire , and insert that endinto the drilled hole at the top of the earrings.Attach the gunmetal ear wires or ear wires ofyour choice to the loops.

Have Time to Spare?Brush the plastic surfaces of the earringswith acrylic satin varnish and cover themwith metal foil. Apply another coat or two ofvarnish and dry thoroughly.

page 7

et Ready


58/138

Get SetTitanium wire 18 gauge

38 cm longSterling silver sheet

20 gauge2 silver jump rings

0.7 cm in diameter2 silver ear wiresBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Photocopied flower

templates 8Bracelet or round mandrel

approximately 5 cm indiameterRotary tumblerChasing liner tool


DESIGNER S NOTEIf you've never coloredtitanium before, practicestep 8 on a flat piece oftitanium before attemptingthis project.

page 8

WIREWORK SAWING FILING CHASING DRILLINGDAPPING FINISHING ADDING HEAT PATINA

o1 To create one double-circle hoop for eachearring, wrap the titanium wire twice aroundthe mandrel, and tap it with a rawhide mallet.(Titanium is very hard and tends to springback to its original shape, so you may wantto start by wrapping the wire around a smalldiameter section of the mandrel ; then slowlyenlarge the hoops by moving the wire towardthe base.)2 Place the shaped wires in a tumbler forfive minutes to change their matte gray colorto a more vibrant gray. (Polished titaniumcolors faster and offers more vibrant colorsthan unpolished titanium.)3 Adhere the photocopied flower templatesto the sterling silver sheet. Saw the shapesfrom the metal and file their edges to givethem a clean look.4 One at a time, place the silver flowers onthe bench block and use a chasing liner tooland hammer to indent the straight lines thatseparate the petals. Note: Make sure yourpunch is polished so that it won't leave anyunnecessary marks on the flower.5 Drill two holes in each flower, side byside and as close to the flower centers aspossible. Start with a O.8-mm drill bit andgradually enlarge each hole, moving up toa 1 1-mm bit.6 Slightly dome each flower in thedapping block. Because the flowers arealready slightly concave , a single strike ofthe hammer will be enough to achieve thedesired effect. Create a matte finish on bothsilver flowers with a kitchen scrub pad.

7 To create a third-hand that will holdthe hoops as you apply heat to color them ,bend one end of a length of titanium wire intoa fishhook shape , and insert the other endinto a soldering block. Suspend one of theshaped hoops from the bent end of the wire.8 Light your torch and adjust the flameto one that is large and soft the onethat occurs at the stage right before thetransparent blue annealing flame. Move thisflame gradually around the hoops , evenlyand in a clockwise direction , until the colorstarts to appear in the metal. The colorsappear in the following order: yellow, purple,blue, and gray.) Stop once you've achievedthe color you desire. Repeat to color theother set of hoops and allow the coloredmetal to cool.9 Thread each hoop wire through the twoholes in a flower. Use round-nose pliers toturn small , closed loops at the ends of bothwire hoops . Open a jump ring and feed itthrough both loops in a hoop wire. Repeatwith the other jump ring and hoop wire. Slidethe ear wires through the jump rings.

DESIGNER ELENI VLONITI


59/138


60/138

DESIGNER MELISS MUIR

Get Ready


61/138

.. Get SetSterling silver sheet, dead

soft, 24 gauge, 2 inches5.1 cm) square

Copper sheet, 26 gauge,1 x 2 inches 2.5 x 5.1 cm

Sterling silver round wire,dead soft, 20 gauge,7 inches 17.8 cm)

Bench tool kit, pageSoldering kit, page 9Disk cutterHeavy brass malletPlanishing hammerRadial bristle sanding disksTumbler with stainless steel

mediaPatina optional)

FINISHED SIZEEach, 5 x 1.5 x 1 cm

TEXTURING OPTIONAL) USING A DISK CUTTER DRILLINGANNEALING DAPPING SOLDERING WIREWORKHAMMERING FILING POLISHING

Go1 Texture one or both of the sheet metalsif desired, and then clean them completely,Using the disk cutter and heavy brass mallet,cut out two o a -inch 1 ,g cm) silver disks andtwo Y16 -inch (0,8 cm) copper disks,2 Drill a small hole through the center ofeach silver disk, Anneal and pickle all fourmetal disks, Using a dapping block andpunch set, slightly ome each disk,3 Coat all the disks with a thin layer of pasteflux, Place the silver disks on your solderingsurface, with their concave surfaces facingup, Place a copper disk inside each silverdisk, with its concave surface facing the samedirection, Cut small, 1-mm squares of hardsheet solder and place them on the solderingsurface, near the disks, With the torch, warmthe solder chips until they ball up,4 Warm the undersides of the outer disksuntil the flux turns from a powdery white to abrown syrup consistency, With a solderingpick or sharp tweezers, place two small ballsof solder on the seam where each pair ofnested disks meets, Continue to warm thedisks evenly, concentrating on the seamfrom underneath, until the solder has flowedaround the seam , Pickle the soldered disksand dry them well.S Cut the sterling silver wire into two3 -inch-Iong (8,9 cm) pieces to use as earwires, Using a planishing hammer and steelblock, slightly flatten about Va-inch (0,3 cm)on one end of each wire, and touch up anyrough edges with a needle file,

6 Flux the disks and wires and place themon the soldering surface, with the silverdomes facing up, Using the third hand tohold the flattened end of the ear wire againstthe back of the domed disk, solder each wirein place with easy solder. Pickle the earringsand dry them well. Remove any excesssolder with a sanding disk,7 Form the ear wires by bending eachone into a U shape around the tips of yourround-nose pliers, about 1 3 ,8 cm) inchesfrom the tops of the domed disks , Usethe flat-nose pliers to ensure that the areaof each wire that's closest to the disks isstraight. Then use your thumb and forefingerto make a gentle curve in the rest of eachwire, The ear wires should look somewhatlike incomplete capital letters D when viewedfrom the side,8 Round the ends of the ear wires with afile , and sandpaper or a cup burr, Place theearrings in a tumbler with stainless steel shotand burnishing liquid to harden and polishthem, Apply any desired patina,

Want to Make Another PairHere are two variations to explore: Vary the disk diameters Change the direction of the domes

page 6

~ et Ready


62/138

Get Set2 sterling silver jump rings

16 gauge each 1.3 to1.4 cm in diameter

2 round sterling silverwires 20 gauge 6.4 cm

2 coin pearls each 12 to3mmBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Metal ring mandrelRing clampSanding stickBracelet pliers or mandrel


page 6

SOLDERING FORGING SANDINGDRILLING WIREWORK

1 Solder the jump rings closed; then pickle,rinse, and dry them,2 Using a fine-tipped marker, mark thesolder joint on each jump ring, and mark thespot that is exactly opposite it , across thediameter of the ring ,3 Place a jump ring on the mandrel , withone marked spot on top , Forge that spot untilit s flat and wide enough to accommodate adrill bit. Repeat at the second marked pointand at both points on the other jump ring,4 To flatten the two outer areas of each ring ,place the ring in the ring clamp, position itso half of the ring is on the bench block, andhammer, Keep your hands and fingers offthe bench block as you do this , move thering from left to right, and keep your hammerblows light and even , To give the flattened

area a graduated look, spend more timehammering its middle, Repeat this processon the opposite side of the ring , and on bothsides of the second jump ring ,5 Use a sanding stick to sand out anyrough hammer marks on both rings,6 Mark and drill holes at the top and bottomof each ring , Sand away any burrs, and finishthe rings as desired,7 Sand and round both ends of eachpiece of 20-gauge wire, Holding a wire juston the edge of the bench block , hammerone end flat. Repeat to flatten one end ofthe other w ire,8 To assemble each earring , thread theround end of a w ire through one hole in aring , through a pearl , and then through theother hole in the ring , Push the ring to theflattened bottom of the wire,9 Using bracelet pliers or a mandrel , startto form both wires, going over them severaltimes to harden them , If you use a mandrel ,plan sh the wires to harden them,)10 Make a mark on each wire, inch(1,9 cm) from the top of the ring, Usinground-nose pliers, bend the wires back atthis point to form ear wires,

Want to Make Another Pair? Try using differently shaped beads,

Adjust the size of the ring to accommodatethe bead,

Make two or three types of rings that fitinside one another and twirl,

DESIGNER DEBOR H FEHRENB CH


63/138

~ et ReadySANDING POLISHING DRILLING


64/138

Get Set2 strips of sterling silver

sheet, 30 or 32 gauge,each 27 0.5 cm

2 strips of paper, each27 0.5 cm

2 round silver wires, 22 or24 gauge, each 20 cm8 sterling silver crimp

beads2 pearls, 7 mmBench tool kit, page 9Soldering kit, page 9

optional)TapeLarge can or mandrelCrimping pliers

FINISHED SIZEEach, 9.5 x 3 x 0.3 cm

page 6

SOLDERING OPTIONAL) WIREWORK

1 Sand and polish the two sterlingsilver strips.2 Fold the paper strips into randomlengths, positioning the folds in a way thatwill allow you to drill a hole through each fold.Open each folded paper strip, and copy thelocation of the folds onto the sterling silverstrips with a marker.3 Fold the sterling silver strips at themarked points. With tape, bind the foldedmetal pieces onto a wooden block. rill ahole through the center of each folded piece.4 f the two sterling silver wires aren talready slightly curved, gently bend themover a large can or mandrel.

5 f soldering: Cut a 15-cm and 5-cm lengthfrom each piece of wire. Solder each shorterwire to a longer one at a 30-degree angle. fnot soldering: Measure 5 cm in from one end,and bend the wires at a 30-degree angle.6 String a crimp bead onto each 15-cmwire and squeeze the bead closed about3 cm from the soldered or bent corner.7 Remove the tape from the pieces offolded silver. Thread the longer wire sectionthrough the drilled holes in each piece. Usingthe project photo as a guide, carefully unfoldthe strips and slide a few of the folds off thewire to make a space for the pearl.8 Thread a crimp bead , a pearl, and asecond crimp bead onto each long wire.Push the upper portion of each strip up tothe squeezed crimp bead before rethreadingthe wire through the rest of the folded strip.9 Secure both silver strips by squeezinga crimp bead at the bottom of each one.

DESIGNER: LL N G RRITS


65/138


66/138

DESIGNER S M LUTT N

et ReadyMELTING WIRE ENDS HAMMERING DRILLING SANDING


67/138

. Get Setfine silver wires

18 gauge each 2 cm28 sterling silver wires

15 gauge each1.3 cm long

sterling silver ear wiresBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Liver of sulfur solutionBeeswax or wax polish

for metal


ADDING A PATINA SEALING WIREWORK

o1 Using a torch heat one end of each ofthe 2-cm-long fine silver wires until a smallball forms approximately 1 mm in diameter.Set the two wires aside.2 With the forging hammer strike onceacross the center of each 1.3-cm longsterling silver wire to indent and bend it Thendrill a hole in the center of each indentation.Sand off any burrs.

3 Place the drilled silver wires in the liver ofsulfur solution and check them at 10-secondintervals. Once the wires are thoroughlyblackened rinse the pieces in cold waterand then polish and seal them with wax.4 Thread 14 of the blackened silver wiresonto each length of the fine silver wire . Makea slightly open loop at the top of each finesilver wire with round-nose pliers to securethe blackened elements.5 Slide the loop at the top of each earringonto the loop of an ear wire and then closethe loops to secure.

page 67

et ReadySAWING WIREWORK SOLDERING


68/138

Get SetRound sterling silver wire,

20 gauge, 5 em longRound sterling silver wire,

22 gauge, 9 em long2 ear nutsBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Cup burrTumbler optional)

FINISHED SIZEEach, 6.7 1 1.5 em

page 8

1 Cut the 20-gauge sterling silver wire inhalf to make two 2.5-cm lengths.2 To form the earring posts use flat-noseand round-nose pliers to bend a 3- to 4-mmring at one end of each 20-gauge wire piece.3 Solder the rings at the end of the earringposts closed and then pickle both posts.4 Cut the 22-gauge sterling silver wire intosix pieces each 15 cm long.5 un one length of the 22-gauge sterlingsilver wire through the ring at the end of oneearring post. Fold the wire in half and twistits ends together with flat-nose pliers. Repeatthis process to add two more wires to thesame ear post.

6 Repeat step 5 with the remaining 22-gaugewires on the second ear post folding the wiresin half and twisting their ends.7 Secure one set of twisted wire ends inthe chuck of the flexible shaft and twist thefolded wires together. Repeat this process foreach folded wire on both ear posts .8 Trim each earring post to 1 cm in length.9 Using a cup burr attachment on the flexibleshaft round the ends of the earring posts.10 With a torch melt the ends of eachtwisted wire to form a ball. Pickle the earringsand finish them in a tumbler if desired.

Have Time to Spare?These earrings also look great when oxidized.

DESIGNER: R ISS BUMP


69/138

II

IIIIftf

f

~ et ReadySAWING HAMMERING FILING SANDING DRILLINGSOLDERING WIREWORK POLISHING


70/138

Get SetRound sterling silver wire

16 gauge 3 cmRound sterling silver wire

20 gauge cm2 earring nutsBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Ring clamp or vise

FINISHED SIZEEach 4 cm in diameter

page 70

o Cut both the 16-gauge and the 20-gauge

sterling silver wires in half.2 Place one piece of the 16-gauge wire ona steel block, and hammer the tip of one endto flatten it . File and sand both ends of thiswire to round and smooth them .3 Use a center punch to make a divot in thenon-flattened end of the wire. Clamp the wirein the ring clamp or vise, and drill a 2-mmdeep hole at the divot. Sand off any burrsthat formed during drilling.4 Sand and flux the drilled wire and onepiece of the 20-gauge wire (the ear wire) .Fit the ear wire into the hole in the 16-gaugewire, and solder the wires together. Pickle,rinse, and dry the soldered pieces .

5 Cut the ear wire to 1 cm in length.Measure and mark 1 mm from the end of theear wire, and notch all the way around it withwire cutters at this point. File and sand the tipof the ear wire to round and smooth it Sandand polish the entire piece.6 Holding the flattened end of the 16-gaugewire with round-nose pliers, form the wire intoa spiral, but don t bend the ear wire.7 Repeat steps 2 through 6 to makethe second earring.

DESIGNER VI KI OOK


71/138


72/138

DESIGNER INGEBORG V ND MME

et ReadySAWING WIREWORK SOLDERING HAMMERING FILINGSANDING USING A ROLLING MILL OPTIONAL) POLISHING OPTIONAL)


73/138

... Get SetSilver wire, 18 gaugeSilver ear wiresBench tool kit, page 9Soldering kit page 9Bezel mandrelRing mandrelRolling mill optional)Polishing machine

optional)

FINISHED SIZEEach hoop, 4.8 x x .01 cm

1 Using the jewelers saw, cut the followinglengths of silver wire:

Two pieces, each 10 cm (extra large - 0Two pieces, each 7 cm (large -0Two pieces, each 3.5 cm (medium - 0

2 Using a 6-mm-diameter mandrel, measureand cut two pieces of wire (small - G , eachlong enough to form a circle that s 5 mm indiameter. Shape these wires into circles.

3 Shape the remaining six wires by hand,bending them into more or less roundshapes. Solder all the shapes closed. Set theextra large A) and small (0) shapes aside.4 Hammer the large shapes (8) on aring mandrel to create ovals; hammer themedium shapes C) in the same manner, tocreate circles. Your hammering will not onlyshape these wires but will also make themhard and firm after soldering. To flatten theseshapes , you can run them through a rollingmill. If you do , work in incremental stages,gradually taking the wire down to about0.6 mm in thickness.)S Position a small circle (0) against theinner top edge of an extra large oval A) andsolder them together. Repeat with the othertwo shapes of the same size. Then hammerthese parts on a steel block or run themthrough a rolling mill to flatten them.6 To assemble an earring, first saw openlarge oval (8) and a medium circle C). Then,slip the large oval (8) through the extra smallcircle (0) , and solder the large oval closed .Slip a medium circle C) through the sameextra small circle, and solder it closed.Repeat this process to assemble the otherearring in the same manner.7 Remove any excess solder with a file , anduse fine sandpaper to finish all of the parts.For a shiny surface, use a polishing machineor very fine sandpaper. For a matte surface,use a green kitchen scrubbing pad or steelwool. Attach the ear wires to the mediumC) circles.

page 73


74/138

DESIGNER LIS C IN

et ReadyUSING A DISK CUTTER DAPPING CUTTING FILINGSOLDERING FINISHING EPOXY RESIN INLAY


75/138

a. Get SetSterling silver sheet

24 gauge 3.5 x 2 cmRound sterling silver wire

20 gauge 20 cm2 tiny jump rings2 ear nuts2 diamond-cut sterling

silver beadsapproximately 6 mmor other decorativeelements

Bench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Disk cutterHeavy flathead hammerBrass bristle wheelSmall bowl of fine riceTwo-part quick drying

epoxy resinToothpicksPlaying card or disposable

mixing surfaceAcrylic color of your choiceHairdryer


1 Use a 20-mm disk cutter and a heavyflathead hammer to punch out two 24-gaugesterling silver disks. Dome each silver diskusing a dapping block of the appropriate sizewith a dapping punch and hammer.2 Cut the 20-gauge silver wire in half tomake the ear studs. File a flat surface on oneend of each stud. Fit a tiny jump ring snuglyaround the filed end of each stud. The jumprings will reinforce the joins between thestuds and domes.) Flux and melt a goodsized piece of hard solder onto each wireand jump ring; stop heating the second thesolder melts.3 Place a dome on the soldering block,with its concave surface face down. Flux thecenter of the dome, and solder the jump-ringend of a stud to it. Repeat this step with theother dome and stud. Pickle, rinse, and dryboth pieces.4 To shine the silver domes, first dip themin soapy water. Then, using the brass bristlewheel in a flex shaft or rotary tool set at a fairlyhigh speed, flick over the surfaces of the wetdomes for a few seconds, inside and out.5 Stiffen both of the annealed studs, bygrasping them close to the dome with flatnose pliers and giving them a firm quartertwist. Repeat this motion in the middle of thestud and again at its tip. File and sand theends of the studs to remove any sharp edges.

6 Using the wire cutters and extremely lightpressure , grip a stud 4 mm from its end , andtwist the earring to cut a notch in the wire.(This groove will help the ear nut click intoplace and gives a professional look to thefinish.) Cut a second groove 2 mm from theend of the wire. The ear nut will click over theend notch to sit between it and the secondnotch. Repeat with the second stud.7 To help the epoxy resin form a good bond,score a few small lines in the deepest part ofeach concave dome with a scribe. Embed theearrings in the small bowl of rice to supportthe domes while you add the resin.8 Mix the epoxy resin , following themanufacturer s instructions and blending itwith a toothpick. Separate out a third of theresin and mix it with a very small amount ofacrylic color. (Caution I Using too much colorwill prevent the resin from setting properly.)9 Using the same toothpick, drop someof the colored resin into the bottom of eachdome. Carefully place a sterling silver beadin the middle of the resin in each ome. Blastthe resin for 30 seconds with a hairdryer seton low heat to speed up the drying.10 Using a clean toothpick, apply clearresin around each bead , filling the domesto the desired levels. Make sure the clearresin is deep enough to form a bond with thebead. Let the resin cure completely.

page 7

~ et ReadySAWING FILING SANDING PUNCHINGSOLDERING WIREWORK


76/138

Get SetSterling silver sheet,

24 gauge, 1 inch(3.8 cm) square

Round sterling silver wire,20 gauge, 2 inches(6.3 cm) long

Bench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Photocopied design

templateGlueBrass brushCup burr

FINISHED SIZEEach, 3 x 1.7 x 1 cm

page 7

1 Cut out the photocopied designtemplates and glue them to the sterling silversheet. Use a jeweler s saw to cut out the twoscalloped earring shapes.2 File around the edges of both silverscallop shapes to create graceful curves .3 Sand the surface of each silver shape ,using circular motions.4 Use a scribe and ruler to draw linesacross the surface of both silver pieces,joining the points where the scallops meet atthe edges (as shown on the design template) .

5 Place one of the silver pieces on a blockof soft wood. Pick up a center punch and autility hammer. Starting at the points wherethe scribed lines cross or end , punch smallcircles along the scribed lines, each about2 mm apart.6 Cut two pieces of 20-gauge sterling s lverwire, each 3 cm long. File the ends of thewires to square them .7 Solder one wire to the back of each silverpiece, centering t above the intersection of thetop pair of punched lines. Pickle the earrings,and then brush them with a brass brush .8 Using a cup burr attachment on theflexible shaft , round the ends of the ear wires .Use flat and half-round pliers to shape theear wires.

Have Time to Spare?These earrings also look great when oxidized.

DESIGNER R ISS BUMP


77/138

et ReadyANNEALING ROLLER PRINTING USING A DISK CUTTER FILINGSOLDERING SANDING POLISHING WIREWORK


78/138

Get SetSterling sheet, 2 gauge,

6x3cmSterling silver wire,

12 gauge, 1.5 cm2 earring posts, 2 or 21

gauge, with 1.5-mm pad4 pearl doublets, drilled2 headpins, 2 gauge, each

3 inches 7.6 cm) long2 earring nutsBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Terry cloth scrap, such asa washclothRolling millDisk cutter

FINISHED SIZEEach, 3.5 cm

page 78

o1 Anneal the 20-gauge sterling silver sheet.2 o texture the dead soft metal, cover onesurface with a piece of terry cloth and runthis through the rolling mill. If you d like totexture both surfaces of the metal , sandwichit between layers of terry cloth.3 Use a disk cutter to cut two matching1-inch (2.5 cm) circles from the texturedmetal. (Note: It s often better to cut circleswhile the metal is work hardened. If youanneal the metal before cutting , the punchhas a tendency to bounce, and the circleswon t come out as clean.)4 File the edges of the circles until they resmooth.

5 Using round-nose pliers or a mandreland the 12-gauge wire, make a jump ringthat is 1 cm in diameter. Cut the jump ring inhalf. File the ends of the half circles smoothand flat.6 Solder an earring post onto the back ofeach textured circle, approximately 7 mmfrom the top edge. Pickle the earrings .7 Clean the earrings and jump-ring halves.Flux and then solder a half ring to the backof each circle. Position the half ring vertically,directly below the soldered earring posts,and approximately 2 mm from the bottomedge of the circle .8 Pickle and clean , and then sand andpolish the earrings as needed.9 Feed two pearl doublets onto eachheadpin. Bend a loop at the top of eachhead pin , and slip it through the half jumpring on the back of each earring. Wrap theend of the pin around itself three times tosecure the pearls.

DESIGNERS ELIZ BETH GL SS GELTM N ND R CHEL GELTM N


79/138


80/138

DESIGNER LISON H NLON

Get ReadySAWING FILING ANNEALING DAPPINGPLANISHING SOLDERING POLISHING


81/138

--. Get SetSilver sheet 22 gauge

4 cm square2 silver earring posts and

nutsBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Small curved-edge

planishing hammerSandbagSmall creasing hammer


Go1 Measure , mark, and cut a 3.5-cm circlefrom the 22-gauge silver sheet. (Be carefulto leave enough silver to cut the two stripscalled for in step 8.2 File the edge of the circle and smooth itwith emery paper. Anneal the silver circle.3 Using a 3-cm depression in a dappingblock and the corresponding punch , shapethe circle into a dome.4 With the small, curved-edge planishinghammer, planish the domed circle to give it ahammered texture. Anneal the domed circle.

5 Use a permanent marker to draw a crosson the back of the dome; the lines shouldintersect at the domes center.6 Place the dome face down on a sandbagand, using the small creasing hammer,carefully hammer along one of the markedlines, leaving about 6 mm untouched at eachend.7 Cut the dome in half along the othermarked line to produce two earrings. Filethe rough edges and sand them withemery paper.8 Cut two 2 x 10-mm strips of silver fromyour silver waste. Bend the strips so thatone side of each is curved to mirror the curveat the top of an earring and the other sideis straight.9 Solder the bent strips to the backs of theearrings , about 5 mm from the top and 3 mmfrom the straight side.10 Re-bend the strips as needed toprovide a straight platform for attaching theearring posts. Solder the earring posts to thesilver strips. Clean and polish the earrings.

page 8

et ReadySAWING SANDING MELTING WIRE ENDSDAPPING DRILLING WIREWORK


82/138

Get SetSterling silver sheet

24 gaugeRound sterling silver wire

20 gaugedark-colored rice pearls

each 7 mm2 light-colored beads

to 6 mmBench tool kit page 9Soldering kit page 9Brass bristle brushDapping punch 1.9 cm in

diameter


page 8

o1 Measure, mark, and cut two sterling silvertriangles from the sheet, each with 1; -inchlong 3 .2 cm sides . Sand the edges of bothtriangles, and then polish them with the brassbrush.2 Cut two pieces of the 20-gauge sterlingsilver wire, each 9.5 cm long. Using thetorch , melt a ball at one end of each wire .Sand the opposite ends of the wires smooth.3 Place one silver triangle in a dappingblock. Using the 1.9-cm dapping punchand a rawhide mallet, form the triangle soits points face sharply upward. Repeat thisprocess with the second triangle . Give thepoints of each triangle a firm squeeze withyour fingers .

4 Mark the center of each formed trianglewith a center punch . Using the flex shaft and1-mm bit, drill holes at these marks. Also drillholes in the rice pearls or enlarge the existingholes in them.S Use sandpaper to remove the burrsleft by the drill on the triangles. Give theseshapes another quick polish with thebrass brush .6 Onto each piece of balled wire, thread arice pearl , a light-colored bead , and a formedsilver triangle.7 Using the flat-nosed pliers and the projectphoto as a guide, make the first bend ineach ear wire , approximately 2 cm above thetriangle. Make a second bend approximately1.3 cm away from the first. Gently curve therest of each wire.

DESIGNER LlESL C RLSON


83/138

7/22/2019 30-Minute Earrings. 60 Quick & Creative Projects for Jewe

30-minute earrings. 60 quick & creative projects for jewelers

Documents